Instructions
Instructions
Instructions
-Take the time to understand the plans, and how it works the machine.
These plans are for routers with 43mm clamplig collar like Kress 1050, for
other tools, you must be make changes surely.
-Plans are in metric units, you can generate plans in imperial units simply
by changing the units to "imperial" in SketchUp under“window-model info",
but the units will not work out to even numbers like they do in metric.
-In Autocad, under format-units you can change units easy.
-If you encounter any problems with the plans, feel free to contact me in
web Forum or mail direcction.
https://www.youtube.com/user/gpaoson
Safety note:
-Never cut metals, cement or masonry.
-Make sure power switches are in “OFF” position before plugging tool in.
-Check tools from damage.
-Disconnect tool from power source before servicing, adjusting or changing
set-ups or blades, bsaw, router bit and other accessories.
-Use proper feed direction.
-Do not force tool or workpiece. Operate tool at intended speed and feed
rate for better and safer operation.
-A potential danger with mounting the router inside this machine is that the
router's switch may bump against the template or the template holder and be
turned on unexpectedly.
-A further safety improvement is to use a router with a slow start. Such a
router starts off very slowly, thus giving time to get one's hands out of the way
before injury occurs if it should start unexpectedly.
-Be careful with the router, hands and clothes, use clamps or adapt
templates to your difficult works.
-The spring must fit in your place, use the upper hook to regulate tension,
must support the weight of the router.
-The Machine is made of hard plywood 18mm screwed, and i used dowels
to get more stability, for the joints I used 4x50, 4x40, 4x35 screws.
-Fast clamping sleeves and the axis brakes, whish are also made from
18mm plywood width .
-Only use tail in parts that need extra resistance, like the 43mm collet or
in followers holder.
-The L shapped perfil must be made of iron or steel. I've used
aluminum, but, as it is softer than the bearings, a groove can be
made on the metal profiles, which after long term use may cause
width . You can glue it or screw it preventing the screws from
touching the bearings. Use a rule to leave them paralell and
straight.
-The Axis can be extended to get more useful work surface, suggest extend
the X axis, why it is the most stable axis.
-For the left hand i use a angle grinder handle, you can also made of wood.
-The 43mm clamplig collar hole should be very fair, do with exact drill or a
CNC, It can be very dangerous if the router drops.
-After several tests, I think it is better to use followers by the back, holding
own followers, from the front you have less feeling with the machine and
templates.
-I painted the body, to protect.
-Connect a vacuum to avoid dust.
-Do not forget to install an electrical box with emergency button to spare
possible shocks...
-The Use of this tool is similar to using the router with hand and templates,
you straining sideways to touch the ends of the axis or the template contourn
if you are using.
-In our youtube channel we have videos of the process and more
imformation, will guide you throughout the process.
-Before starting this project, I install a block on the Z axis in order to mill
from the rear, without having to pull the lever, which is very useful for certain
pieces of work with the 2D Follower. I made the templates in a CNC for the
2D contours y for the 3D top of the guitar. If you do not have a CNC, I
recommend that you order them from someone who has them. They could
also be made by hand but, if it is done accurately, some good templates may
be used to duplicate a job at any time! In this situation, we could also use a
real guitar as a template. I made two bases of 700x350x10mm on MDF in
order to hold and locate the pieces to be worked on.
-The bearing of the 2D Follower must have the same diameter as the
router bit, or install a smaller bearing if you are looking for a bigger milling
cutter than the one in the template itself. The depth of each pass on Z axis
depends on the material and the work tool. As you can see in the video at
2'50 min, the 2D Follower can be used from ahead or from the back.
Personally, I prefer from the back because I feel more at ease with the
template.
-I lower all the elements of the Y axis, bringing the milling cutter close to
the piece to be worked on. Then, I adjust the height of the touch probe in
order to use the 3D Follower. As I am going to lower the cover by passing
several times on Z, I first leave the milling cutter at a slightly higher level than
the touch probe. In the last pass, these heights must be identical. As with the
2D Follower, I prefer milling from the back because I feel more at ease with
the template and it is less dangerous.