AR3 Robot Manul - 2

Model AR3 Robot Manual
OPEN SOURCE 6 AXIS ROBOT

Contents:
• Electrical Safety
• Overview
• Chapter 1 – Bill of Materials
• Chapter 2 – Robot Assembly
• Chapter 3 – Enclosure Assembly
• Chapter 4 – Wiring Diagram
• Chapter 5 – Robot Gripper
• Chapter 6 – Specifications
• Chapter 7 – Startup Procedure
• Chapter 8 – Programming
• Chapter 9 – Open Loop Version (AR2)
2
Electrical Safety
 ELECTRIC SHOCK HAZARD. The construction of this control enclosure poses potential
exposure to alternating current and direct current which has the potential to cause injury
or death. This equipment should be constructed and serviced by trained or qualified
persons.
 Keep the area around the device clear and free from dust before, during, and after
installation.
 Wear safety glasses if you are working under any conditions that could be hazardous to
your eyes.
 Do not perform any actions that create a potential hazard to people or make the
equipment unsafe.
 Never install or manipulate wiring during electrical storms.
 Never install electrical jacks in wet locations unless the jacks are specifically designed for
wet environments.
 Operate the device only when it is properly grounded.
 Ensure that the separate protective earthing terminal provided on this device is permanently
connected to earth.
 Replace fuses only with fuses of the same type and rating.
 Do not open or remove chassis covers or sheet-metal parts unless instructions are
provided in the hardware documentation for this device. Such an action could cause severe
electrical shock.
 Do not push or force any objects through any opening in the chassis frame. Such an action
could result in electrical shock or fire.
 Avoid spilling liquid onto the chassis or onto any device component. Such an action could
cause electrical shock or damage the device.
 Avoid touching uninsulated electrical wires or terminals that have not been disconnected
from their power source. Such an action could cause electrical shock.
 Always ensure that all modules, power supplies, and cover panels are fully inserted and that
the installation screws are fully tightened.
3
OVERVIEW
About building this robot:
The AR3 robot is an 6 axis robot project that is free and open source. The following manual is
provide so that people can build this 6 axis robot themselves. All software, print files and
manuals are available for download on the Annin Robotics website downloads page. All the
components you need to build this robot are outlined in Chapter 1. The assembly of the robot
arm is outlined in Chapter 2. The assembly of the electrical enclosure is outlined in Chapter
3..
Components Needed to Build this Robot:

The following is an overview of the 5 component groups needed:
• 3D covers and spacers (you must print these yourself) see chapter one “spacers and
covers” section.
• Structural components - You can print these yourself to build a 3D printed robot or you
can purchase an aluminum parts kit from the robot kits page to build your robot from
aluminum https://www.anninrobotics.com/robot-kits. There are 27 structural components –
see chapter one “structural components” section.
• Hardware components – this includes the bearings, belts, pulleys, sprockets, chain, shafts,
pins, machine screws and set screws. These can be purchased from multiple sources – see
chapter one “hardware components” section. If you have difficulty finding these component
or wish to buy them all in one place I buy them all in bulk and have made a hardware
components kit available on the robot kits page: https://www.anninrobotics.com/robot-kits.
• Stepper Motors and Drivers – the 6 motors, drivers and power supply are available
directly from Stepperonline, there is a link to this package on the robot kits page:
https://www.anninrobotics.com/robot-kits.
• Electrical components – You must source all of the electrical components shown in the
Electrical components section of Chapter 1. These can easily be purchased from places
such as Amazon or AliExpress. I currently don’t have an electrical components kit available
however I have had many requests and it is something I am looking into.
4
General Robot Assembly notes:
• Use medium strength thread locker on all screws.

• All belts and chains should be tensioned using moderate tension (do not over tighten or
stress belts and chain).
Tools Needed:
• General hand tools including metric hex key set, locking pliers, wire cutters, wire
strippers.
• Wire ferrule crimpers and wire ferrules.
• Soldering Iron and flux core silver bearing solder.
• Heat gun or lighter for shrink tubing
• 3D printer and printer filament.
• Various size drill bits for clearing holes in 3D printed components.
• M3, M4, M6 and M8 taps for threading plastic components.
• Epoxy is used for the J6 limit switch tip. Epoxy is also used in some areas of the robot
assembly when using 3D printed components.
Bearing Fit:
The CAD models for the AR2 robot are sized for a slight press fit on all bearing and race
diameters. The assembly steps in this manual also reference pressing the bearings and races
in place. Given customer feedback and the fact that most don’t have access to a quality
bearing press or hardware I have tried to make sure the aluminum kits offered are closer
to a slip fit. If bearings get improperly wedged or tilted and then attempt to press, severe
damage can occur. Given the opportunity for bearings to jam and permanently damage to
occur I have opted to try and provide kits that error on the side of a looser fit to avoid
part damage and frustration. If the tolerance stack up on your components results in a
race that is slightly loose please use a small strip of shim stock or wax paper to alleviate
any movement. A small dab of epoxy can also be used.
The bearing oil that comes on bearings should be sufficient lubrication given the low
speed and pressure of the robot joints. If additional lubrication is needed a very small
about of white lithium grease is recommended.
5
3D Printing Your Robot:
This manual shows the construction of the robot using aluminum for the main structural
components but the robot can also be constructed using all 3D printed components. The .stl
print files for all components are here: https://www.anninrobotics.com/downloads The
construction illustrated in this manual is the same using either aluminum or 3D printed
components - note the following details if using 3D printed components:
• 3D printed components require all threaded holes to be cleared with appropriate drill
size and then tapped.
• All printed structural components were printed at minimum 50% infill with the exception
of the J2 and J3 drive spindles and tension rings which were printed at 90%+ solid. Parts
were printed at 2mm layer height and 5 layer thick shells.
• All printed covers and spacers were printed at 20% infill at 2mm layer height and 5 layer
thick shells.
• The robots I have 3D printed were made using ABS at 220° nozzle temperature. I have
not personally tried using other materials but I have received feedback from numerous
people who have used PLA, PET and carbon fiber reinforced filaments without issues.
• The J1 baseplate, J1 baseplate spacer and J2 arm larger than most 3D printer beds and
therefore are printed in 2 pieces and require being epoxied together.
• The J1 spindle is printed in 2 pieces and requires the center alignment plug be epoxied
into the end of the spindle – this is the center hub that centers the 60T timing pulley.
• The printed design calls for additional reinforcements to be epoxide in place around the
J1 base and at the base of the J2 arm (see details at the end of this manual)
• The J4 tube cannot be 3D printed; if building a fully 3D printed robot you will need to cut
and drill aluminum tubing as shown in structural components BOM section of chapter 1.
• 2 spools of filament are needed for printing the primary structural components. A 3rd
spool is needed if you wish to print your covers and spacers in a different color.
6
Electrical Enclosure:
• 7th AXIS
Please note there are several steps that refer to an optional 7th axis travel track. The robot
itself only requires 6 drivers and 6 motor plugs/cables. If you would like to build your
enclosure to accommodate a 7th axis you can add a 7th driver as well as a 7th plug and cable
but it is optional.
• Enable Circuit
Please note this assembly manual does not show wiring of the enable circuit. The enable
circuit will likely not be used by most and is used to disable the motor drivers. The enable
circuit disables each of the motor drives when 5vdc is applied to the enable terminals on the
driver. Keeping safety in mind; if you have an application where the robot needs to be guarded
by a “fence” circuit or safety door you can run +5vdc to all the ENA+ terminals and then
-5vdc to safety switch, and then back from the safety switch to each of the ENA- terminals.
When the safety switch is made and -5vdc is passed through the switch to the DIN rail enable
terminal the circuit will be completed and the drives will be disabled. It is not necessary to
use the enable circuit. For simplicity in design and lowest cost I chose to wire the E-Stop
button to cut off 24vdc to the drivers. Most inexpensive E-Stop buttons are normally closed
but if desired you could alternatively use a normally open E-Stop button or relay wired to the
enable circuit rather than disrupting the 24vdc supply to the drivers.
• Arduino Mega and 8 Channel Relay Board
Note the Arduino Mega and 8 channel relay board is not necessarily needed for the operation
of the robot itself. The Arduino Mega is a good low cost board that can accept 5vdc inputs
and outputs. The relay board has been included in the design for general purpose use or to
control a pneumatic gripper solenoid (please see chapter on Robot Gripper). The 8 channel
relay board can be used to control any higher voltage device or actuator that you may need
the robot to control.
• Arduino / Teensy 3.5 mount
This manual shows mounting the control boards in a 3D printed raised mount. It also shows
soldering female PCB pin headers to the Teensy 3.5. Alternatively you can use the Teensy 3.5
with male pins and a breadboard if desired. I prefer not to use breadboards and would rather
take the time to solder the female pins in place, as of this point in time the Teensy 3.5 is not
available with female header pins.
7
Using Braided Sleeve
Several Steps in this
manual will call for braided
sleeve to be placed over
electrical wires. Make sure
that as soon as you cut any
braided sleeving you use a
lighter or flame to carefully
melt the ends of the sleeve
as shown.
If you do not melt the ends

the sleeve will un-braid and
not hold the wires together.
Using Crimp Quick Disconnects

Several steps in this
manual will call for crimping
both straight and 90° quick
disconnects for 22awg
wire.
Be sure to use a quality

crimper for straight
disconnects (shown left)
Be sure to use a quality

crimper for 90° disconnects
(shown right)
Note that I have found it
helpful to strip 10mm of
insulation off of wire and
then fold wire over on itself
before inserting into quick
disconnect.
This ensures a tight wire fit

into terminal.
After crimping always pull

on wire and make sure you
have a good crimp.
Please also note that

depending on supplier
some quick disconnects do
not plug onto limit switch
terminals tightly. If you find
quick disconnects slip off of
terminals too easily you
can place disconnect into a
pair of pliers as shown and
very gently close the
disconnect gap slightly.
Be very careful not to

compress connector too far
– only gently compress if
needed.
Soldering Wire Connections
Several steps in this

manual will call for
soldering and heat
shrinking wire connections
together.
Strip wire ends of both

wires and twist wire
strands.
Insert length of heat shrink

tube over one of the wire
ends.
Use soldering iron and

rosin core electrical solder
to pre apply solder to the
ends of each wire.
This is also known as

“tinning” the wire end.
Use soldering iron to melt
solder on both wire ends so
that wire ends are
overlapping and solder
forms a complete bond
between the two wire ends.
Slide the heat shrink tube

over the solder joint and
then use a lighter flame to
shrink the tubing over the
joint.
Gently sweep the flame

back and forth over the
heat shrink tubing taking
care not to apply too much
heat.
Do not use open flame

around any combustible
materials and be careful
not to inadvertently melt
any of your plastic
components or braided
sleeve.
Robot Rest Position:
Please note that stepper motors when not powered will go limp or drift downward and
not always support the robot arm to stay in position when unpowered. When the
robot is not powered on it should always be parked in a vertical position with J2
straight up and then J3 straight up – In the vertical position the robot will not go limp
or fall over when the motors are not powered. When the robot is powered and the
motors are energized there is no issue, the robot will be completely rigid and it wont
be an issue to leave the robot in any position you like. During the assembly process you
may experience the robot going limp or starting to fall over – this is normal and is not
an issue, just try and keep the robot arms vertical or support the arm on an object such
as a cardboard box or wood dowel if drift is experienced.
12
CHAPTER 1
BILL OF MATERIALS
13
Structural Components
Parts shown are made from aluminum but you can also 3D print the
structural components if you are building a fully 3D printed robot. See
downloads page https://www.anninrobotics.com/downloads for .stl print
files. (see note below on J4 main shaft as this part cannot be 3D printed)
J1 BASE PLATE J1 TURRET HOUSING
J1 SPINDLE J1 PLATFORM
14
J2 TURRET HOUSING J2 ARM
J2 DRIVE SPINDE J2 TENSION RING
15
J1 & J3 MOTOR MOUNTS J2 MOTOR SUPPORT
J3 BEARING CUP J3 SPINDLE
16
J3 SPINDLE RETAINER J4 TURRET HOUSING
J4 MAIN SHAFT J5 MOTOR MOUNT

(see note below on making your own J4
main shaft if you are not using aluminum
parts kit and are 3D printing your robot)
17
J4 TIMING HUB J4 MOTOR MOUNT
J5 HOUSING J5 BELT CARRIER & J5 BELT CARRIER

CLAMP
18
J5 BEARING POST J5 IDLER TENSION BLOCK
J6 MAIN BEARING ARM J6 HOUSING SINGLE PIECE
19
J6 BEARING CAP J6 GRIPPER MOUNT
Note on J4 Main Shaft: If you are building a 3D printed robot and do not have aluminum
parts you will need to purchase a length of aluminum tubing, cut and drill as shown in this
drawing. 1” OD .035” wall thickness tubing is available from McMaster Carr #1968T17 or
can be sourced from other online metal supply retailers.
20
Covers and Spacers
You will need to 3D print the robots covers and spacers. See downloads page
https://www.anninrobotics.com/downloads for .stl print files. Covers and
spacers can be printed in any color of your choosing – in this robot build I
have chosen white covers and red logos.
J1 BASE ENCLOSURE PART 1 J1 BASE ENCLOSURE PART 2
J1 BASE ENCLOSURE CAP J2 UPPER AND LOWER SIDE COVERS
21
J2 UPPER AND LOWER ARM COVER J5 SIDE COVER
SPACERS
J5 SIDE COVER SPACER J5 SIDE COVER CAP
22
J6 LIMIT SWITCH TIP J2 & J5 ARM COVER LOGOS
J4 MOTOR SPACER – 4mm
23
Hardware Components
All Bearings, belts, chains, pulleys, sprockets, keys and screws are available
on the robot kits page or can be sourced from various suppliers.
Qty. (2) 32009 (45x75x20mm) taper roller Qty. (2) 30206 (30x62x17.25mm) taper
bearing for J1 - Sourced from Amazon or roller bearing for J2. - Sourced from
Ali Express Amazon or Ali Express
Qty. (1) 30204 (20x47x15.25mm) taper Qty. (1) AXK3552/AS3552 (35x52x4mm)

roller bear for J3. - Sourced from Amazon thrust bearing with washers. - Sourced
or Ali Express from Amazon or Ali Express
Qty.(3) NTA1625 (1.00x1.5625x0.0781 Qty.(4) TRA1625 (1.000x1.5625x0.0312

inch) thrust bearing (2 for J4 and 1 for J6) inch) thrust washer (3 for J4 and 1 for J6)
–Sourced from McMaster Carr – Sourced from McMaster Carr
Qty.(2) TRD1625 (1.000x1.5625x0.125 Qty.(2) B1616 (1x1-1/4x1 inch) needle
inch) thrust washer(1 for J4 and 1 for J6) – roller bearing for - Sourced from Amazon
Sourced from McMaster Carr or Ali Express
Qty. (1) HK1612 (16x22x12mm) needle Qty.(2) 3mm x 85mm shaft (you only need
roller bearing for J5 belt idler - Sourced 2 but they are typically sold in lots of 10 or
from Amazon or Ali Express more and are typically 100mm long) – you
will need to cut them down to 85mm long. -
Sourced from Amazon or Ali Express
Qty.(4) LM3UU 3mm linear rod bearing Qty.(1) 688Z (8x16x5mm) groove ball
(you only need 4 but are typically sold in bearing bearings (you only need 1 but are
lots) - Sourced from Amazon or Ali Express typically sold in lots) - Sourced from Amazon
or Ali Express
Qty.(1) 30203 (17x40x13.25mm) taper
roller bearing for J6 - Sourced from Amazon or
Ali Express
Qty. (1) 180XL037 belt for J1 - Sourced from (2’ length) 04B 6mm roller chain for J3 –
Amazon or Ali Express Sourced from McMaster Carr
Qty.(1) 04B link for 6mm chain for J3 – Qty.(1) 84XL037 belt for J4 - Sourced from
Sourced from McMaster Carr Amazon or Ali Express
Qty.(1) J5 belt - Sourced from Amazon or Ali Qty.(1) 60T XL pulley for J1 - Sourced from
Express Amazon or Servo City (there is also a 3D print file
for this but I have not tested the 3D printed part
in a built robot)
NOTE: the Annin Robotics hardware kit comes
with a machined aluminum version of this pulley.
Qty.(2) XL 15 tooth 8mm bore pulley (1 for Qty.(1) XL 10 tooth 6mm bore pulley for J4
J1 and 1 for J6) – Sourced from Ebay – Sourced from Ebay
Qty.(2) 04B 13 tooth 8mm bore 6mm pitch

sprocket for J3 chain – Sourced from
McMaster Carr
Qty.(1) – 2mm x 2mm keystock (you need Qty.(1) 1” OD aluminum tube (you need a
length that is 116.3mm long) - Sourced
a length 25mm long) – Sourced from
from McMaster Carr
McMaster Carr
You will need to purchase this part only if
building a fully 3D printed robot – the
aluminum parts kit comes with this tube
Qty.(1) 8mm keyed rotary shaft (you will

need a length that is 50mm long) –
Sourced from McMaster Carr
Qty.(1) – 8mm square head screw –

Sourced from McMaster Carr
Metric screws needed: Quantity:
#4 x .25 Flat Head Screw 6

#6 x .375 Thread Form Screw 6
M3x10 Flat Head Screw 13
M3x10 Set Screw Screw 4
M3x14 Pan Head Screw 10
M3x14 Socket Head Screw 6
M3x3 Set Screw 4
M3x4 Set Screw 5
M3x5 Flat Head 20
M3x6 Set Screw 7
M4 Nuts 4
M4 Washers 36
M4x10 Set Screw 11
M4x5 Set Screw 23
M8 Square Head Set Screw 1
30
Stepper Motors https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/
All motors are available from Stepperonline. There is a link on the robot kits page to
a complete discounted motor, driver and power supply kit from Stepperonline.
J1 motor
SKU: 17HS15-1684D-
HG10-AR3
J2 motor
SKU: 23HS22-2804D-
HG50-AR3
J3 motor
SKU: 17HS15-1684D-
HG50-AR3
J4 motor
SKU: 11HS20-0674D-
PG14-AR3
J5 motor
17LS19-1684E-200G-AR3
J6 motor
SKU: 14HS11-1004D-
PG19-AR3
250W 24V 10A 115/230V
Switching Power Supply
Power Supply as well as

stepper motors package for
the AR3 robot is available
from Stepperonline
DM542T digital stepper

driver.
You will need (5) of these

drivers for axis 1,2,3,5 & 6
of the robot. You will need
one additional driver if you
would like to build a travel
track.
Stepper drivers as well as

from Stepperonline
NOTE: the drivers shown

in some of the pictures in
this manual are blue –
however the DM542T is
typically black.
https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/
DM320T digital stepper
driver.

drivers for axis 4 of the
robot.
Stepper drivers as well as
from Stepperonline
(1) Bracket for the J4 motor

#SKU: ST-M3
https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/
Electrical & Misc. Components
BUD Industries NBF-32026

Plastic ABS NEMA Economy
Box.
Any appropriate enclosure
designed to IP66 of IEC 529
and NEMA 1, 2, 4 and 4x
specifications can be used or
substituted. A larger
enclosure would be ideal but I
have found the NBF-32026 to
be the most cost effective
option.
This item is available from

Amazon or can be purchased
from multiple online sources
or the manufacture.
https://www.budind.com/
BUD Industries NBX-

32926-PL ABS Plastic
Internal Panel

Amazon or can be
purchased from multiple
online sources or the
manufacture.
BUD Industries IPV-1115
IP32 Air Vent, 3.2" x 3.2“

Amazon or can be
purchased from multiple
online sources or the
manufacture.
(1) Box #6 x 3/8 thread

forming screws.
Relay Mount:
This component must be

printed on your 3D printer
using the print file: “8
channel relay mount.STL”
which can be found at:
https://www.anninrobotics.c
om/downloads
Under the AR3 print files.
Printer settings used for

ABS:
3 layer wall thickness
20% infill
220°C nozzle
(print setting not critical for
this part)
Arduino Mount:
This component must be

printed on your 3D printer
using the print file:
“Arduino Mount.STL” which
can be found at:
https://www.anninrobotics.c
om/downloads
Under the AR3 print files.
Printer settings used for

ABS:
3 layer wall thickness
20% infill
220°C nozzle
(print setting not critical for
this part)
5 meters of flexible 18awg
silicon hook up wire. You
will need 1 box containing
at least 4 different colors
(blue, black, green & red)

Amazon or multiple online
electrical supply vendors.
20ft - 22awg red and black

flexible silicone wire.
This item is typically

available in 10’ roll so you
will need (2) rolls. Available
from Amazon or multiple
online electrical supply
vendors.
20ft - 22awg white flexible
silicone wire.

available in 50’ roll so you
will have some extra.
18awg 4 conductor cable.

available in 100’ roll from
NOTE: Wire colors are

red, white, black and green
(1) Roll 26awg twisted pair
wire 5 meters long.

18awg primary electrical

wire.
The colors used in this

manual are white, black,
green, brown and blue.

(6) 6’ long Ethernet cables.
For the robot assembly we

will use a yellow, blue and
red Ethernet cable. These
cables will be cut where
part of each cable is used
inside the electrical
enclosure and the other
part is used for the robot.
The black, green and white

Ethernet cables will not be
cut and will be used
between the control
enclosure and the robot
Set of breadboard jumper

wires.

Heat Shrink tube kit.

Qty. (1) Roll of ½” braided

sleeve.
Qty. (1) Roll of ¼” braided

sleeve.

Qty. (2) PG-21 gland nuts.
Gland nuts are commonly

available in the color black
but I have chosen white for
this robot build.

DIN rail and terminal

blocks.
Color coded kit as the one
shown is convenient but
not necessary. Terminals
can be any color and you
can source components
individually.
You will need:

DIN rail 5” ( 127mm) long
(16) Terminals
(8) jumpers
Qty.(1) straight lever XV-
152-1C25 limit switch –
Sourced from Amazon or
Ali Express
Qty.(5) roller tip SV-166-

1C25 limit switches –
Sourced from Amazon or
Ali Express
AC Rocker Switch 3 Pin
IEC320 C14 Inlet Module
Plug Fuse.

Emergency Stop Switch

Push Button Switch

Qty (3) RJ45 CAT5e
Feedthru Panel Mount Jack

Note: you will also need 3

of these in the robot base
(see chapter 1) so there is
a total of 6 needed.
Qty. (2) USB-B to USB-A

Feedthru Panel Mount Jack

(2) GX16-2 aviation plugs.
You will need a total of (2)

plugs, (1) cable will be
made, (1) socket will be
installed in this enclosure
and (1) socket will be
installed on the robot.

(14) GX16-4 aviation plugs.
You will need a total of 14

plugs, (7) cables will be
made, (7) sockets will be
installed in this enclosure
and (7) sockets will be
installed on the robot.
These plugs are typically

sold in sets of 10, you may
choose to buy 2 sets and
have a few extra.

(12) 22 awg quick
disconnect terminals.
(6) 22awg 90° quick

disconnect terminals.

suppliers such as Amazon,
Ali Express or any
hardware store.
You will need (5) 16awg

wire ferrules and (20)
22awg ferrules. The
ferrule kit shown is a good
option if you do not already
have a ferrule crimping
tool.

Qty. (6) AMT102-V
encoder.
This encoder is available

from Amazon as well as
multiple online electrical
suppliers such as Digi-Key,
Mouser and Arrow.
Qty. (3) 3019_0 (50cm high

speed encoder cable). This
cable will be cut in half
yielding (6) encoder
pigtails.
The 3019_0 cable uses a

Molex 50-57-9405
connector for the AMT102-
V encoder.
This cable is available from

Amazon, Phidgets or
various other online
retailers.
https://www.phidgets.com/?
tier=3&catid=30&pcid=26&
prodid=169
8 channel 5vdc relay
module.

Note: Relay module is

included in this project for
general purpose needs.
This relay module can be
used to control your gripper
or any other number of
actuators or solenoids that
you require the robot to
control from the program
console.
2.54mm female header

pins.
You will need (2) header

pin strips that have 24 pins
each.

available in 40 pin rows in
sets of 10 as shown – in
the instructions to follow we
will cut these down to 24
pins long.

Teensy 3.5 controller
without pins.

Amazon, multiple online
suppliers or
https://www.pjrc.com/store/t
eensy35.html
Arduino Mega 2560

controller.

5vdc power supply

Qty. (1) SMC MHF2-8D1

pneumatic gripper.
This is the recommended

gripper for the robot
however you can use any
gripper you like. Please
review chapter in this
manual on grippers.
This gripper can be found

for the best price on Ebay
or Ali Express
3mm OD flexible tubing
You will need 3mm

pneumatic tubing if using a
pneumatic gripper for your
robot.

(2) M3 thread x 3mm tube

fitting.
You will need 2 of these if

using the SMC

An alternative push connect

fitting can be found here:
(QSML-M3-3)
https://www.alliedelec.com/pro
duct/festo/qsml-m3-
3/70990969/
CHAPTER 2
ROBOT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
55
Use M4 tap to thread (2)
holes as shown in J1 base
enclosure part 1
Epoxy J1 enclosure part 1

and part 2 together as
shown.
It is recommended that you

place both enclosure
pieces on flat surface such
as a glass table top while
epoxy cures.
Secure J1 base plate to J1
enclosure assembly using
(2) M4x20 pan head
machine screws.
NOTE: these screws are

meant to hold base plate to
enclosure for assembly and
transport purposes only –
when assembly is complete
and you are ready to use
your robot you will need to
secure robot to table or
work surface using 8mm
fasteners through (4)
mounting holes.
Press (x2) #32009 bearing

races into the J1 turret
housing. If you do not have
access to a press place
turret housing in oven @
350° and bearing races in
freezer for 60 minutes,
quickly remove housing
from oven – the cold races
will drop into the expanded
housing. (you will need to
do this for both races one
at a time)
(See notes on bearing fit in

overview section)
Install #32009 bearing on
J1 spindle as shown.
Insert J1 spindle into turret

housing then install the
other #32009 bearing on
top side of spindle.
Use abrasive saw to cut
square head M8 screw
down as shown leaving
approx. 8mm of threads
remaining.
Install square head M8

screw into J1 turret
platform as shown – make
sure square head is
tangent to center bolt circle
as indicated by dashed line
in picture.
Press (x2) #30206 bearing
races into the J2 turret
housing. If you do not have
access to a press place
turret housing in oven @
350° and bearing races in
freezer for 60 minutes,
quickly remove housing
from oven – the cold races
will drop into the expanded
housing. (you will need to
do this for both races one
at a time)
(See notes on bearing fit in

overview section)
Secure J2 turret housing to

J1 platform using (6)
M6x18 flat head screws.
Install (2) M6 x 20 socket
head screws in front of J2
turret housing going into
the J1 platform.
Install platform assembly

onto J1 spindle assembly
and secure with (8) M6 X
14 socket head cap
screws.
Install (4) M4 x 10 set
screws in the 4 perimeter
holes in the platform.
These place tension on the
upper bearing.
Snug the 4 set screws
down evenly until there is
no play in the bearings.
Secure J1 turret assembly

to J1 base from the bottom
using (8) M4x10 socket
head cap screws.
Note orientation of limit

switch flat in next step prior
to installing.
Make sure limit switch flat
is facing toward rear as
indicated by red lines in this
image.
In the following steps we

will install the J1 Motor.
Standard aluminum XL
pulleys are not slotted for
the 3mm keyway. If you
have access to the proper
broach tooling it is
recommended that you
broach the pulley for a
3mm slot.
Alternatively you can use a
pair of locking pliers to
remove the key stock from
the motor shaft and then
seat the pulley set screw
into the key slot when
installing.
Install J1 motor mount to J1
motor using (4) M4x10 flat
head screws.
Install XL15 tooth 8mm

bore drive sprocket on J1
gear motor shaft and
tighten set screws.
If using un-broached pulley

make sure one of the set
screws is seated into motor
shaft slot.
Install (2) M3x10 set
screws in rear of motor
mount slots.
Install motor assembly onto

base and
secure with (4) M4 X 20
socket head cap screws
and (4) washers but do not
fully tighten until after belt
is tensioned.
NOTE: Make sure (2) 3mm

tension holes located on
ends of slots are facing
toward back.
Install 60T timing hub
pulley onto J1 spindle and
secure with (4) M6x14
socket head cap screws,
then install 180XL037 belt
as shown.
Make sure the (4) 4mm X

20 socket head cap screws
securing the motor to the
baseplate are slightly loose
so that motor can slide to
apply belt tension.
Tension J1 belt using (x2)

M3x10 set screws in rear of
motor mount slots.
NOTE: when belt is at

good moderate tension the
set screws will be fully
threaded into the motor
base plate and no longer
be visible.
Once belt has moderate
tension tighten the (4) 4mm
X 20 socket head cap
screws securing the motor
to the baseplate.
Install the green (.197”)

AMT-102 encoder sleeve
on to the J1 motor as
shown.
Please review the

assembly instructions
provided with the AMT-102
encoder.
Use (4) M3x5 flat head
screws to mount the ENC-
AMT102 base to the top of
the J1 motor as shown.
Set dip switch settings on

AMT-102 encoder as
follows:
Switch 1 = Off
Switch 2 = Off
Switch 3 = Off
Switch 4 = On
This sets the encoder to a

resolution of 512 steps per
revolution or 1024 PR for
both channels.
Install AMT-102 encoder on
to J1 motor as shown.
Encoder will snap into the
plastic base.
Cut (3) high speed encoder

cables in half yielding a
total of (6) encoder plug
wire ends.
One of them will be used

for the J1 motor in the
following step – the other 5
will be used throughout this
manual on the other 5
motors.
Install encoder wire end
into J1 encoder as shown.
Cut length of ¼” braided

sleeve to a length of 23cm
(9”) long then route J1
motor and encoder wires
through the sleeve.
Attach small cable tie as

shown near plug end.
Leave J1 wire loom off to

the side for now, later in
this manual, after
connecting J2 & J3 wires,
we will return to J1 wires
and pull them into the
enclosure and solder them
to their connections.
Cut lengths of red, black
and white 22awg wire to
lengths of 26cm (10”) long.
Crimp 90° quick disconnect

to the end of each wire.
Install wires with quick

disconnects onto SV-166-
1C25 roller tip limit switch and
then install limit switch onto
J1 turret housing as shown.
Use (2) M3x14 socket head or

Philips pan head screws to
secure switch to housing.
Be sure to connect wires as

follows:
• Black to NC2 terminal
• Red to NO3 terminal
• White to COM1 terminal
NOTE: Red and Black

connectors need to be slightly
bent to either side to create
clearance for switch to be
mounted.
sleeve to length of 19cm
(9.5”) long and then install
over J1 limit switch wires
as shown.
Install small cable tie

around sleeve at switch
end as shown.
Leave J1 limit switch wire

loom off to the side for now,
later in this manual, after
connecting J2 & J3 wires,
we will return to J1 wires
and pull them into the
enclosure and solder them
to their connections.
Install (2) PG-21 gland nuts
into base enclosure as
shown.
Clear all (6) RJ45 mounting

holes using a #41 (2.4mm)
drill.
Install (3) RJ45 panel
mount jacks as shown and
secure with (6) #4 flat head
screws.
Cut yellow, blue and red

Ethernet cables to overall
length of 15cm (6”)
Note: save remaining end

of yellow, blue and red
Ethernet cables for use in
assembly of the electrical
enclosure.
Use a razor blade to
carefully score sheathing at
end of connector and then
gently remove all
sheathing.
NOTE: be extremely
careful when scoring the
sheathing that you don’t cut
through and damage the
wires.
Cut off and remove the

brown and white pair of
wires from each cable and
then plug the red, blue and
yellow Ethernet cables
inside enclosure into RJ45
panel jacks in the positions
shown in the photo.
Cut (1) length 18awg red
wire to 5cm (2”) long.
Cut (12) lenthgs of 22awg

red wire to 5cm (2”) long.
Pre apply solder to the

ends of each wire. This is
also known as tinning the
end of each wire.
Use small cable tie to

group the (12) 22awg wires
together and then insert the
(1) 18awg wire into the
center of the 22awg wires
as shown.
Solder bundle of wires
together as shown and
then remove cable tie.
Make sure all wire ends are

soldered together
thoroughly and non are
loose or can be removed.
Apply heat shrink tubing

around solder joint as
shown.
Repeat the previous (4)
steps using black 22awg
wire to create a second
wire bundle, but on this
bundle of black wires add
one extra wire for a total of
(13) leads on the -5vdc
bundle.
Insert the single 18awg

wire from both bundles
through GX16-2 aviation
plug nut and then through
top right hole in J1 base
enclosure as shown.
Solder 18awg wires to
GX16-2 aviation plug
terminals as shown.
GX16-2 aviation plug notch

should be facing upward so
that the black bundle is on
the left side of the plug and
the red bundle is on the
right side of the plug.
Insert plug and tighten nut.
These bundles will supply

5vdc to all the encoders
and limit switches.
Install large heat shrink
tube or electrical tape over
5vdc plug solder joints as
shown to avoid exposed
terminals inside enclosure.
Install J2 spindle into J2

arm as shown using (8)
(green arrow).
Make sure J2 spindle

keyway is oriented up as
shown (red arrow).
Make sure J3 limit swtich

mounting holes are
oriented to right side as
shown (blue arrow).
Install #30206 bearing onto
Install M3x10 set screw into

J2 spindle as shown but do
not thread through to
keyway yet.
Install J2 arm assembly
into J2 turret housing and
then install the other
#30206 bearing from
opposite side as shown.
Install J2 tension ring and

secure with (6) M3x10 flat
head screws.
Make sure tension ring is

90° to the J2 arm and that
the keyway slot in tension
ring aligns with keyway slot
in J2 spindle.
Install (4) M4x5 set screws
and tighten until there is no
play in J2 bearings. These
set screws set the bearing
tension – remember to
apply loctite to set screw
threads.

lengths of 61cm (24”) long.
Crimp 90° quick disconnect

to the end of each wire.
1C25 roller tip limit switch
and then install limit switch
onto J2 turret housing as
shown.
Use (2) M3x14 socket head

or Philips pan head screws
to secure switch to
housing.

follows:
Wrap small piece of tape

around end of the J2 limit
switch wires and use
marker to mark wire with 2
stripes so that you will
know this is for J2 after
pulling it into enclosure.
Use 9/32” or 7.2mm drill to
enlarge pass through hole
on J2 motor mount.
This hole was originally a

smaller size for the AR2
robot – We will now pass
the J2 motor wires and
encoder wires through this
hole on the AR3 robot so
having it a larger size will
be helpful.
Remove the (4) M4 cap

screws and lock washers
from head of J2 gear motor.
Carefully remove the

gearbox motor shaft
bearing assembly as
shown.
Install J2 motor mount over
J2 motor gear box housing
as shown.
Make sure motor wires are

facing to the right (red
arrow).
Carefully re-install J2
gearbox motor shaft
bearing assembly as shown
and tighten the M4 cap
screws.
Then turn motor rear shaft

by hand until the main shaft
keyway is facing upward as
shown.
Remove one of the factory
M4 screws holding the J2
motor to the J2 gearbox.
Replace factory screw with

M4x35 Philips head pan
screw, then place (6) M4
washers over screw
threads on gear box side
as shown.
Save one of the factory

screws as we will utilize it
in a future step.
Repeat this process for the
remaining (3) screws
replacing the factory
screws one at a time with
M4x35 pan head screws
and placing (6) M4 washers
over each screw post.
Slide J2 motor mount plate

over the M4x35 screw
posts as shown and then
install and tighten M4
washer and nut.
Install J2 motor assembly
onto robot sliding the J2
motor shaft into the J2
spindle.
Install and tighten (3)

M6x18 flat head screws
securing the J2 motor
mount plate to the J1 base
platform.
Make sure there is approx.

1mm gap between the J2
gearbox motor housing and
the J2 tension ring set
screws as shown.
If for any reason the motor

is too close to the set
screws add one additional
M4 washer between J2
mounting plate and J2
motor on 35mm screw
posts.
Install and snug M6x20 cap
screw in J2 motor support
plate as shown.
NOTE: do not over tighten

and deform gear box
housing. This only needs
to be tight enough to locate
gearbox radially.
Tighten the M3 set screw

for the J2 spindle.
With the J2 arm in a

vertical position you can
access the set screw
through the access hole in
top of J2 housing.
Install the Blue (.315”)
shown.
Please review the

encoder.

AMT-102 encoder as
follows:
Switch 1 = Off
Switch 2 = Off
Switch 3 = Off
Switch 4 = On

both channels.

plastic base.
Trim J2 motor and encoder

wires to a length of 20cm
(8”) long.
Cut Red, Black, Blue &
Green 18awg wires to a
length of 56cm (22”) long.
Solder and heat shrink 22”

long extension wires to the
J2 motor wires as shown.
Be sure to match colors so

that red goes to red and so
on.
Wrap ends of J2 extension
wires with tape and then
use a marker to put (2)
stripes on each wiring
indicating the wires are for
joint 2 so that you will know
these are for J2 when wires
have been routed inside
enclosure
Cut 26awg shielded 4

conductor control cable to a
Carefully score outer jacket

with razor knife, remove
2.5cm (1”) of the grey outer
jacket on both ends of cable.
(be careful to not damage
wires or shielding when
removing jacket.
On one end of the cable cut

and remove the shielding
wires, on the other end twist
them together to create a
ground wire. (red arrow).
Strip ends of all wires and
pre-apply solder to ends of
wires on both ends of cable –
including the ground wire.
(this is also known as tinning
the wires).
Solder and heat shrink the
J2 encoder wires to the
26awg control wires as
follows:
• Red goes to red

• Black goes to black
• White goes to white
• Brown goes to yellow
The green wire coming

from the encoder will not be
used.
The twisted ground wires

are on the opposite end of
cable that will be routed
into base enclosure.
Use a marker to put (2)

stripes on opposite end of
cable indicating the cable is
for joint 2 so that you will
know these are for J2 when
wires have been routed
inside enclosure.
sleeve to 13cm (5”) long.
Tape ends of wires and

then slide braided sleeve
over J2 motor wires and
encoder cable up to motor
and encoder and then
secure with a small cable
tie (red arrow).
Feed J2 wires through J2

motor mount plate side
hole as shown.
Press (1) #30204 bearing
race into the J3 bearing
cup.
Secure J3 bearing cup and

race to end of J2 arm using
(6) M3x20 flat head screws.
Install 8mm keyed shaft
with 2x2mm keystock into
• 8mm shaft should be

50mm long.
• 2x2mm keystock should

be 25mm long.
Secure shaft and key in

position with M3x4 set
screw.
Install 35x52x4 thrust

bearing and washers onto
Insert J3 spindle and
bearing assembly into J2
arm as shown.
While holding the J3

spindle and bearing in
place insert #30204 bearing
over J3 spindle shaft as
shown.
Install J3 spindle retainer
and secure with (4) M3x10
flat head screws.
Tension screws so that

there is no play in bearing
but not too tight that the J3
shaft does not rotate
smoothly.
NOTE: don’t forget to use

small amount of medium
strength loctite on screw
threads.
Standard low cost 13 tooth

8mm bore sprockets are
typically blank and will need
to be drilled and tapped to
accept a 4mm set screw.
Use a 3.3mm (#29) drill to
drill (2) holed in each
sprocket.
(holes should be 90° from
each other)
Use 4mm tap to thread (2)
holes in each sprocket.
Install 13 tooth sprocket on

the J3 spindle shaft and
secure with (2) M4x5 set
screws as shown.
Blank low cost sprockets
are not slotted for the 2mm
keyway. If you have
access to the proper
2mm slot.
If using un-broached
sprocket make sure one of
the set screws is seated
into J3 shaft slot.
Make sure to use Loctite
and be sure both of the set
screws are tight and
secure.
In the following steps we
will install the J3 Motor.
Standard blank sprockets
are not slotted for the 3mm
keyway. If you have
access to the proper
3mm slot.
Alternatively you can use a
pair of locking pliers to
remove the key stock from
the motor shaft and then
seat the pulley set screw
into the key slot when
installing.
Install J3 motor mount to J3

motor using (4) M4x10 flat
head screws.
Make sure that the tension

holes (red arrows) are 90°
to the motor wires (blue
arrows) in the orientation
shown in the photo.
Install (2) M3x14 cap head
screws into tension slot
holes on J3 motor mount.
Install 13 tooth 8mm bore

drive sprocket on J3 gear
motor shaft as shown and
tighten set screws.
If using un-broached pulley

make sure one of the set
screws is seated into motor
shaft slot.
Make sure to use Loctite

and be sure both of the set
screws are tight and
secure.
Cut length of 04B - 6mm
chain down to length of
20-3/4” long (52.7cm). It
should have 43 links.
Install master link in 04B

roller chain as shown.
Install chain over top
sprocket then insert J3
motor assembly and drop
J3 motor sprocket into
chain.
J3 motor assembly will be

hanging from chain – motor
will be secured in next step.
Secure J3 motor assembly

to J2 arm using (4) M4x20
socket head cap screws
and (4) washers.
Make sure the socket head

cap screws securing the
motor to the arm are
slightly loose so that motor
can slide to apply chain
tension.
Tighten M3 tension screws
until there is moderate
tension on chain.
After chain is tensioned

tightened finish securing
the J3 motor mount by
tightening the (4) M4x20
motor mount screws.
Apply grease to chain and

sprockets as shown.
Install J2 upper side cover
and upper side cover
spacer as shown.
Secure with (2) M3x25

Philips head pan screws.
Install J2 lower side cover

and side cover spacer as
shown.
Install remaining M3x25

Philips head pan screws.
There are a total of (16)

screws.
Secure AR3 logo into
recess in J2 side cover
using epoxy.

lengths of 107cm (42”)
long.
Crimp quick disconnect to

the end of each wire.
follows:

(16”) and slide over the
22awg wires up to limit
switch as shown. Secure
braided sleeve to wires with
small cable tie close to
quick disconnect.
Install the J3 limit switch

onto J2 arm as shown.

or Philips head pan screws
to secure switch inside of
arm.
Secure J3 limit switch wire
to top of J3 gearbox
housing using 2 medium
size cable ties (red arrows).
Then route the J3 limit

switch wire behind the J3
motor and then around the
front of the J2 motor gear
box (yellow arrow).
The J3 limit switch wires

will route behind J2
gearbox and join the group
of wires from the J2 motor.
Wrap the end of the J3 limit

switch wires with tape and
then mark wires with (3)
stripes to indicate the wires
are for Joint 3.
Solder and heat shrink

56cm (22”) long extension
wires to the J3 motor wires
as shown.

that red goes to red, black
goes to black and so on.
Tape ends of J2 motor

wires together and use
marker to mark wires with
(3) stripes so that you will
inside enclosure
shown.
Please review the

encoder.

AMT-102 encoder as
follows:
Switch 1 = Off
Switch 2 = Off
Switch 3 = Off
Switch 4 = On

both channels.

plastic base.
Then plug encoder wire into

J3 encoder.

removing jacket.

Strip ends of all wires and
pre-apply solder to ends of
wires on both ends of cable –
the wires).
.

J3 encoder wires to the
26awg control wires as
follows:
• Red goes to red

The green wire coming

from the encoder will not be
used.
The twisted ground wires

are on the opposite end of
cable that will be routed
into base enclosure.
inside enclosure.
(10”) long (red arrow).
Wrap ends of J3 motor

wires and J3 encoder wires
with painters tape (blue
arrow) and then route all J3
wires through braided
sleeve.
Secure braided sleeve to

wires at motor base using
small cable tie (yellow
arrow).
Route J3 wires over the J2

gear box and through
center of robot joining the
other J2 wires (yellow
arrow).
Secure the J3
motor/encoder wire bundle
to the J3 encoder wires
with small cable tie (red
arrow).
Cut length of ½” braided
(20”) long.
Wrap ends of all J2 and J3

wires with painters tape
and then route all wires
through braided sleeve.
Wrap small cable tie

around end of braided
sleeve so that it is tight to
the bundle of wires (yellow
arrow).
Route the J2 wire loom,

The J1 motor wires and the
J1 encoder wires into the
left enclosure gland nut as
shown.
Wrap a large cable tie

around all 3 wire bundles
inside enclosure to keep
wire bundles from pulling
back out of enclosure (red
arrow).
Route red, black, green &
blue 18awg J3 motor wires
through nut from a GX16-4
aviation plug and then
through the bottom left hole
of enclosure as shown.
Solder motor wires to

GX16-4 aviation plug as
shown.
View from back of

connector with notch up
solder black to upper left,
green to upper right, red to
lower left and blue to lower
right.
Install J3 plug into
enclosure and tighten nut
from backside.

through the middle left hole
shown.
View from back of

right.

from backside.
blue J1 motor wires
through the middle left hole
These are the factory wires

from the J1 motor.

shown.
View from back of

right.
from backside.

J1 encoder A-B wires to the
Red Ethernet cable A-B
wires for J1 (orange –
orange stripe).
• Encoder white wire goes

to Red Ethernet cable -
white with orange stripe
wire.
• Encoder brown wire
goes to Red Ethernet
cable - orange wire.
(ALSO SEE THE WIRING

DIAGRAMS IN CHAPTER 4)
5vdc red and black wires
from the J1 encoder to one
of the red and black 5vdc
source bundle wires.
• Black wire from J1

encoder goes to one of
the black wires from -
5vdc bundle.
• Red wire from the J1

the red wires from the
5vdc bundle.


wires for J2 (blue-blue
stripe).
• Encoder cable white wire

cable – blue wire.
• Encoder cable yellow
wire goes to Red
Ethernet cable – white
with blue stripe wire.

from the J2 encoder cable
to one of the red and black
5vdc source bundle wires.

5vdc bundle.

5vdc bundle.


wires for J3 (green-green
stripe).

cable – white with green
stripe wire.
wire goes to Red
Ethernet cable – green
wire.


5vdc bundle.

5vdc bundle.


J1 limit switch signal wire
(white) to the yellow
Ethernet cable wire for J1
(white with orange stripe)

from the J1 limit switch to
one of the red and black
• Black wire from J1 limit

switch goes to one of the
black wires from -5vdc
bundle.

limit switch goes to one
of the red wires from the
5vdc bundle.


(orange)


bundle.

5vdc bundle.


(white with green stripe).


bundle.

5vdc bundle.

Press (2) B-1616 needle

roller bearings into the J3
turret housing (install one
on each side).
Secure J4 turret housing to
J3 spindle using (2) M4x14
flat head screws (center)
and (4) M4x10 cap screws
(outer).
Secure J4 timing hub to J4

main shaft using (4) M4x5
set screws.
Note that one of the set

screws needs to seat into
the 2nd hole in J4 main
shaft.
Install (1) TRD1625
(.126” thick) bearing
washer over J4 main shaft
and into J4 timing hub
recess as shown.
Install (1) NTA1625 (1” ID)

need roller bearing over J4
main shaft and into J4
timing hub recess as
shown.
Install (1) TRA1625
washer over J4 main shaft
and into J4 timing hub
recess as shown.
Install J4 tube / timing hub

assembly into the J4 turret
as shown.
Make sure bearings are

fully seated in timing hub
recess and flush to J4
turret housing.
Install (1) M3x5 socket
head cap screw into J5
motor housing as shown.
This screw serves as a

timing lug for the J4 limit
switch.
Secure J5 motor mount

using (4) M3x18 socket
head cap screws.
Note the motor connector is

facing downward (red
arrow) and the timing lug
screw is 90° to the right
(blue arrow).
NOTE: the M3 threaded

holes in motor can be
shallow, if you find that the
motor mount is not tight
you may need to grind one
or two threads from end of
M3x18 cap screws.
Install (1) TRA1625
washer over J5 motor shaft
and into J5 motor mount
recess as shown.

need roller bearing over J5
motor shaft and into J5
motor mount recess as
shown.
Install (1) TRA1625
washer over J5 motor shaft
and into J5 motor mount
recess as shown.
Install J5 motor assembly

into J4 main tube as
shown.
Be careful that bearings

stay in place in J5 motor
mount and slide over the
end of the J4 main tube.
When J5 motor mount is
fully seated over J4 main
tube and bearings are flush
to J4 housing secure J5
motor mount to J4 tube
using (4) M4x10 set
screws. With motor
connector facing down the
set screw facing out (red
arrow) should seat into hole
in J4 main shaft.
into J4 timing hub in
locations shown with red
arrows.
Don’t forget to apply loctite

to set screws and then
apply light tension to each
screw, these screws will
apply tension on all of the
J4 bearings. Make sure
screws are tensioned such
that there is no play in
bearing but not too much
tension so that the motor
and shaft still spin freely in
housing.
Install J4 motor mount /

limit switch contact block as
shown and secure with (3)
M4x10 socket head cap
screws.
Install Nema 11 motor mount
bracket as shown, place the
3D printed part “J4 motor
spacer – 4mm” between the
bracket and the aluminum.
Secure with (4) M3x14 socket

head cap screws.
The covers and spacers print

files comes with 2mm, 3mm,
4mm and 5mm thicknesses of
the “J4 motor spacer” so that
you have some options to
tension the belt given
variation in the belt. If you are
printing a 3D printed version I
have found the 2mm spacer
may fit best depending on
your printer and filament
material used.
Install J4 motor and secure

with (4) M3x8 socket head
cap screws.
Install XL 10 tooth 6mm
bore drive pulley onto J4
motor shaft and secure with
(2) M3x4 set screws.
Install 84XL037 timing belt.

Place belt over the 10 tooth
J4 motor pulley and then
up over the main shaft
sprocket – rotate the J5 /
J4 assembly as belt rolls
onto sprocket.
Countersink the (3) holes in
POM nut that came with
the J5 linear screw motor.
Install POM nut into the J5

carrier as shown and
secure with (3) M3x10 flat
head screws.
Before installing the 3mm
shaft bearings into the J5
carrier check to see that
they slide easily and
smoothly over the 3mm
rods.
DO NOT FORCE
BEARINGS OVER RODS
• the inner ball bearings
can be dislodged if
forced.
If variation / tolerance in
either bearings, rods or rod
surface finish result in a
slightly tight fit or a rough fit
use a drill and scotch-brite
or fine steel wool to polish
rods – make sure rods slide
into bearings easily and
smoothly.
Install (4) LM3UU 3mm
shaft bearings into J5
carrier.
Install 2 bearings per side –

pictures shown 2 installed
on front side of carrier,
also install 2 on back side.
Secure bearings in carrier

using (4) M3x4 set screws.
NOTE ON 3mm ROD DIAMETER
The diameter of the 3mm rod can vary slightly depending on

suppliers. Measure you rods and make sure they are approx. 2.98mm
in diameter and that the 3mm bearings slide on to them easily.
DO NOT FORCE BEARINGS ONTO ROD
If you find your rods are slightly larger – approx. 3.04mm this is easily
fixed using a drill press, sand paper and scotch-brite. Chuck rod into
drill and then evenly polish with 500 or larger grit paper. Check
diameter carefully along entire length of shaft then polish thoroughly
with scotch-brite. This process only takes a few minutes but its
important that the rods are not tight or forced into bearings. The
rods should measure approx. 2.98mm
Use abrasive saw to cut (2)
3mm linear rods down to
85mm in length.
Place J5 carrier inside of

the J5 housing, then install
(2) 3mm linear rods
through the J5 carrier
bearings as shown.
Temporarily install M4x8
socket head cap screw fully
threaded into hole as
shown (red arrow) – this
will prevent the 3mm rod
from going too deep and
blocking the hole.
Finish sliding the 3mm rods

into place as shown.
Secure both 3mm rods in

place using (2) M3x6 set
screws – one from the top
and one from the bottom
(red arrows).
Then remove the M4 cap

screw that was placed
temporarily to prevent the
rod from inserting too far.
Install the J5 idler tension
block and secure with (2)
screws.
Install HK1612 bearing over

the J5 bearing post as
shown.
Secure the bearing post
and bearing to the J5
tension block using (1)
screw as shown.
Install 688Z bearing in end

of J5 housing as shown
and then secure with (2)
M3x6 set screws from each
side.
Spin J5 housing assembly
onto J5 motor lead screw
as shown.
Slide J5 housing assembly

forward onto J4 main tube
until fully seated against J4
timing hub.
Note on robot weight: from

this point forward as we add
more components to the
upper robot arm the J3 motor
will at some point start to sag
or drift downward and not
support the weight of the arm.
This is normal, once the robot
is fired up and motors are
powered the robot will be rigid
and support its own weight,
for now with no power you
may need to put something
under the arm to support it or
rotate the arm to the vertical
rest position for some of the
future assembly steps.
Install M4x5 set screw (red
arrow) to secure J5
housing to J4 main tube,
make sure screw threads
into hole in J4 main shaft to
ensure clocking is correct.

shown.
Please review the

encoder.

AMT-102 encoder as
follows:
Switch 1 = Off
Switch 2 = Off
Switch 3 = Off
Switch 4 = On

both channels.
plastic base.

Cut J4 motor and encoder
wires down to length of
5cm (2”) as shown.

length of 107cm (42”) long
as shown.

on.

inside enclosure


removing jacket.

Strip ends of all wires at both
ends of cable and pre-apply
solder to ends of wires –
the wires).
Solder and heat shrink the J4
encoder wires to the 26awg
control wires as follows:
• Red goes to red

The green wire coming from the

encoder will not be used.
The twisted ground wires are on

the opposite end of cable that will
be routed into base enclosure.
Use a marker to put (3) stripes

on opposite end of cable
indicating the cable is for joint
3 so that you will know these
are for J3 when wires have
been routed inside enclosure.

(10”) long.
Route braided sleeve over

J4 motor and encoder
wires as shown.
Secure sleeve with small

cable tie (red arrow)
Secure wires and sleeve to
left side of J4 motor using
large cable tie as shown
(red arrow).
Route J4 wires and sleeve

into side slot of upper arm
spacer as shown.
Make sure there is enough

slack or arch in wires that
arch comes level with J5
motor mount (dashed line).
long.


follows:

sleeve to length of 28cm (11”)
and slide over the 22awg
wires up to limit switch as
shown. Secure braided
sleeve to wires with small
cable tie close to quick
disconnect.
Mark ends of wires with (4)

stripes so you will know these
are for the J4 limit switch
when routed inside enclosure.
Install the J4 limit switch
onto J4 turret housing as
shown.
or Philips head pan screws
to secure switch inside of
arm.
Route J4 limit switch wires
and braided sleeve over J4
gear box to other side of J4
motor.
Route J4 limit wires and

sleeve so that they join the
J4 motor wires.
Secure J4 limit
wires/sleeve to J4 motor
wires with small cable tie
(red arrow).
Route J4 limit wires into

slot in upper J2 arm spacer
(yellow arrow).
Make sure limit switch

wires have the same arch
and amount of slack as the
J4 motor wires.
shown.
Please review the

encoder.

AMT-102 encoder as
follows:
Switch 1 = Off
Switch 2 = Off
Switch 3 = Off
Switch 4 = On

both channels.

plastic base.
Cut J5 motor wires to

length of 26cm (10”) long –
(red arrow)
Cut J5 encoder wires to

length of 5cm (2”) long –
(yellow arrow)
Solder and heat shrink 94cm (37”)

long extension wires to the J5
motor wires as shown.
NOTE: The J5 motor wires are not

the standard colors – make
connections as follows:
• Red motor wire (A+) to Black
extension wire.
• Grey motor wire (A-) to Green
extension wire.
• Yellow motor wire (B+) to Red
extension wire.
• Green motor wire (B-) to Blue
extension wire.
Tape ends of J5 motor wires
together and use marker to mark
wires with (5) stripes so that you
will know these are for J5 when
wires have been routed inside
enclosure

removing jacket.

the wires).

• Red goes to red

The green wire coming from

the encoder will not be used.
The twisted ground wires are

on the opposite end of cable
that will be routed into base
enclosure.

inside enclosure.
(11”) long.

J5 motor and encoder
wires as shown.

Secure wires and sleeve to

left side of J5 motor using
large cable tie as shown
(red arrow).
Route J5 motor/encoder
wires into upper J2 arm
spacer access as shown.
Make sure J5
motor/encoder wires have
an arch that is 3cm (1.25”)
higher than the J4 wires
arch.
Press #30203 taper roller

bearing race into J6 main
bearing support arm.
Secure J6 main bearing
arm to J5 housing using (6)
Install #30203 taper roller

bearing onto J6 housing
side post.
Install (1) TRD1625
washer into J6 bearing cap
recess as shown.

need roller bearing into J6
bearing cap recess as
shown.
Install (1) TRA1625
washer into J6 bearing cap
recess as shown.
Install J6 housing from left

side as shown and then
install the J6 bearing cap
(with bearings) from the
right. Secure bearing Cap
to J6 housing using (1)
screw.
Don’t forget to use loctite

on screw threads.
in perimeter of bearing cap.
These set screws will apply

tension on J6 bearings.
Set tension evenly on all

set screws so there is no
play J6 housing rotation but
also that it rotates
smoothly.
Use M3 tap to thread the

front (6) holes in J5 side
cover (red arrows).
Use #30 (.128” or 3.25mm)
drill bit to clear the rear (9)
holes on J5 side cover
spacer.
Install J5 side cover as

shown, temporarily install
(2) M3x25 philips head pan
screws to hold side cover in
place.
Use countersink to add
chamfer to ID of XL15
pulley as shown (red
arrow).
Depending on
manufacturer or supplier
stock availability the OD of
XL15 flange may vary.
Make sure your XL15

sprockets flange OD is
between 28mm and 30mm.
If your XL15 pulleys flanges
are slightly large you can
use belt sander or hand file
to reduce the flange
diameter.
This is a non-critical
dimension, it just needs to
fit inside the J5 spacer.
Install XL15 pulley onto J6

housing post as shown.
Do not tighten set screws

at this time.
Manually rotate the J5
motor lead screw until J5
carrier is all the way
forward as shown.

long.


follows:
In the next steps we are
going to install the J5 limit
switch, when installed we
want the roller tip of the
limit switch to make contact
with the leading edge of the
J5 carrier.
The red star in this photo

shows the location in which
we want the roller tip to
make contact with the
carrier.
Install J5 limit switch in J6

bearing arm slot as shown.
Make sure roller tip

contacts J5 carrier in
position shown.
Insert switch just until you

hear and feel the limit
switch click and make
contact.
With limit switch installed
such that switch clicks or
makes contact just as J5
carrier makes the forward
position install (2) M4x10 set
screws (red arrows) to secure
limit switch into position.
Set screws should be snug

and keep limit switch secured
but not too tight – do not over-
tighten and damage switch.
Do not forget to use loctite on
set screws.
Manually rotate J5 motor

lead screw back and forth
and verify that you can hear
and feel the J5 limit switch
click closed each time the
J5 carrier is all the way
forward.
Use #30 (.128” or 3.25mm)

drill bit to drill a hole in
150XL belt as shown.
Hole should be directly

between 2 of the ribs.
Install 150XL belt over J6
pulley and J5 idler bearing.
Make sure the hole drilled

in belt is aligned with the J5
carrier and install (1) M3x8
cap screw through belt and
threaded into J5 carrier
clamp as shown (red
arrow).
Make sure screw is tight

and belt is secured to J5
carrier.
Make sure set screws in J6

XL15 pulley are still loose.
Make sure the J5 carrier is

in the forward position and
that the limit switch has just
clicked.
Rotate J6 housing to an up
angle so that the motor
side is down. (note blue
arrow – motor mount screw
hole is down)
Use angle gauge and set

J6 housing angle to 105°
(red arrow).
With J5 carrier in the forward
position (switch clicked) and
the J6 carrier at 105° tighten
the XL15 pulley set screws.
The J5 angle is now

mechanically calibrated.
This calibration can be refined

further after the robot has
been started up. After startup
you can run the auto
calibration procedure and
then jog J5 to the zero
position – at that point if the
joint is not perfectly straight
out zero degrees you can
loosen these set screws and
adjust the J6 housing to
perfect zero – this will also be
covered in the startup and
calibration video for the AR3
robot.
Manually rotate the J5

motor lead screw until the
J6 housing is at approx. a
45° down angle – this will
make installation of the J6
motor easier in a future
step.
Install AR3 logo into recess
in J5 cover cap and secure
with epoxy.
Install J5 spacer and J5

side cap as shown and
secure to J5 housing using
(8) M3x25 Philips head pan
screws (red arrows).
Install (6) M3x20 Philips
pan head screws in front
section of cap (red arrows)
securing the cover cap and
spacer to the rear side
cover.

(4”) long.

J5 limit switch wires as
shown.

Route J5 limit switch wires
through J5 spacer passage
so that sheething enters
the shorter tube on the side
and then the red, black and
white wires exit the rear
tube as shown.
Tape ends of J5 limit switch

inside enclosure.
Cut J6 motor wires down to

a length of 15cm (6”) long
as shown.
shown.
Please review the

encoder.

AMT-102 encoder as
follows:
Switch 1 = Off
Switch 2 = Off
Switch 3 = Off
Switch 4 = On

both channels.

plastic base.
into J6 encoder as shown
and then cut encoder wires
down to the same length as
the motor wires (15cm).

as shown.

on.

inside enclosure


removing jacket.

the wires).
• Red goes to red

The green wire coming from

the encoder will not be used.
The twisted ground wires are

on the opposite end of cable
that will be routed into base
enclosure.

inside enclosure.
Install J6 motor into J6

housing as shown with
wires facing upward.
Secure motor to housing

using (4) M3x3 set screws.
There are (2) in the front
(red arrows) and (2) on the
backside.
Use epoxy to secure J6
limit switch tip to the
straight lever arm limit
switch. Make sure it
remains flat and fully
seated while epoxy cures.
You can use a small piece
of cardboard or cotton
swab to support the rear
end of switch while epoxy
cures.

long.


1C25 straight lever limit
switch
follows:
Install J6 limit switch onto
J6 housing as shown using
(2) M3x14 socket head or
philps pan head screws.
Tape ends of J6 limit switch
inside enclosure
If installing a pneumatic
gripper now is the time to
run the air lines.
You can make the air lines

any length you need, I am
going to cut 2 lengths of
tubing to 250cm (100”)
each.
If you are going to use an

electric gripper then instead
of running pneumatic tubing
run whatever electrical wire
you may need for your
servo gripper.
Run the pneumatic tubing
along with all the J6 motor,
encoder and limit switch
wires. Run the tubing
23cm (9”) past where the
encoder and motor wires
go into the motor and
encoder and then use a
small cable tie to
temporarily hold them in
place as shown.
Wrap ends of J6 motor,

encoder and limit switch
wires as well as ends of
pneumatic tubes with
painters tape so that the
bundle of wires can easily
be fed through braided
sleeve.
Cut a 25cm (10”) length of

¼” braided sleeve and feed
all J6 wires and tube
through the sleeve as
shown.
Feed all J6 wires and
pneumatic tubing through
the J5 spacer passage as
shown.
Tuck approx. 3cm (1”) of

sleeve inside the leading
end of the J5 spacer
passage.
Remove the cable tie used

to hold the pneumatic lines
in place and wrap braided
sheeth end at J6 wires and
tubing outlet with black
electrical tape (red arrow).

(18”) and feed all J6 wires
and pneumatic tube
through the sleeve as
shown.
Tuck 3cm (1”) of sleeving

into the trailing end of the
J5 spacer passage.
Route all of the J6 wires
down through the wire-way
channel on the back of the
J2 arm spacer as shown.
Be careful not to pull too

hard on wires as you are
working them down the
wire-way along with the J3
and J4 wires. They are a
snug fit and it does take a
little time to work them
down.
Tuck 3cm (1”) of the

braided sleeve down into
the top of the wire-way
channel.
Again wrap ends of J6, J5

and J4 motor, encoder and
limit switch wires as well as
ends of pneumatic tubes
with painters tape so that
the bundle of wires can
easily be fed through
braided sleeve.
Cut 84cm (33”) length of

½” braided sleeve and feed
all wires and tubes coming
from bottom of J2 spacer
arm wire-way through
braided sleeve as shown.
Tuck 3cm (1”) of the ½”
braided sleeve up into the
bottom end of the J2
spacer arm wire-way.
Once this is done install

cable tie through 6mm hole
in wire-way, push it back
and around wires and
sleeve inside wire way and
then use needle nose pliers
to get it back out the 6mm
hole on opposite side.
Snug wire tie to keep wires
and sleeve from working
their way out of wire-way.
Do not get cable tie too

tight, you do not want to
restrict the airflow in
pneumatic tubes.
Use a mounting hole cable

tie to secure the J4-6 wire
loom to the J1 base
platform as shown.
Secure cable tie to platform

using one of the removed
factory screws from the J2
motor earlier in this
manual. The screw will
thread over the top of and
into the set screw hole
shown (red arrow).
Route J4-6 wire loom
through right gland nut as
shown.
Temporarily unplug the red

Ethernet plug to assist in
pulling it through.
Make sure to leave amount

of slack shown in loom
prior to entering the
enclosure – the amount of
slack should match the
amount of slack in the J1-3
loom below it.
Route the (2) pneumatic

lines out of the base
enclosure through the (2)
access holes shown (red
arrow).
Remove all the blue

painters tape that was used
to keep each of the wire
bundles together for
passing through the sleeve.
Trim braided sleeve back if

necessary.
Reinstall the red Ethernet

plug as shown.
through the bottom right
hole of enclosure as
shown.

shown.
View from back of

right.
from backside.

through the middle right
hole of enclosure as
shown.
shown.
View from back of

right.

from backside.
through the top right hole of
enclosure as shown.

shown.
View from back of

right.
from backside.

Blue Ethernet cable A-B
wires for J4 (orange-orange
stripe).

goes to Blue Ethernet
cable – orange with
white stripe wire.
wire goes to Blue
Ethernet cable – orange
wire.

5vdc bundle.

5vdc bundle.

wires for J5 (blue – white /
blue stripe).
• Encoder white wire goes

to Blue Ethernet cable –
blue wire.
• Encoder green wire goes
to Blue Ethernet cable –
blue with white stripe
wire.

5vdc bundle.

5vdc bundle.

wires for J6 (white/green
stripe - green).

goes to Blue Ethernet
cable – white with green
stripe wire.
wire goes to Blue
Ethernet cable – green
wire.

5vdc bundle.

5vdc bundle.

(white) to the Yellow
Ethernet cable wire for the
J4 limit switch (blue)
• J4 limit switch wire

(white) to Yellow
Ethernet cable – (blue)

bundle.

5vdc bundle.

J5 limit switch (white / blue
stripe)

(white) to Yellow
Ethernet cable – (white /
blue stripe)

bundle.

5vdc bundle.

J6 limit switch (green)

(white) to Yellow
Ethernet cable – (green)

bundle.

5vdc bundle.
Bring the ground wires from

the 5 encoder cables
together and solder them
together as shown.
Also solder the last black

-5vdc wire from the bundle
to this joint.
Carefully tuck all wires into
enclosure.
Install base enclosure cap

and secure with (6) #6 x3/8
thread forming screws.
Install (1) M4x10 socket
head cap screw in lower
threaded hole in J6 gripper
mount as shown.
(This will be the contact for

the J6 limit switch)
Secure J6 gripper mount to

MHF2-8D1 gripper using
(2) M3x8 socket head cap
screws (red arrows).
Make sure pneumatic inlet

ports are oriented on left
side as shown in photo
(blue arrows).
Install (2) M3x3 pneumatic
barb fittings into gripper
pneumatic inlet ports as
shown.
Install J6 gripper mount

assembly onto the J6 shaft
as shown and secure with
(1) M4x10 set screw.
Timing lug set screw should

be facing down and
pneumatic barb fittings
should be on the right.
Install air lines on to
pneumatic barb fittings as
shown.
CHAPTER 3
ELECTRICAL ENCLOSURE
&
MOTOR CABLES
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
206
Install backplane into
enclosure using (4)
supplied screws.
On left hinge side of

enclosure use marker and
straight edge to draw
rectangle as shown.
Rectangle should measure:

1.875” (48mm) wide
1.125” (29mm) tall
Rectangle should be
centered in side panel of
enclosure and be .75”
(19mm) down from top.
On front panel of enclosure
mark (2) points as shown.
Points should be 1” (26mm)

from bottom.
Left point should be 1.5”

(38mm) from left hinge side
of door.
Points should be 1.5”

(38mm) apart from each
other.
On front panel of enclosure

draw (3) rectangles as shown.
Rectangles should measure:

.70” (18mm) wide.
.95” (24mm) tall.
Rectangles center should be

2.25” (58mm) from bottom.
Left rectangles center should

be 1.5” (38mm) from left hinge
side of door.
Rectangles center should be

1.5” (38mm) apart from each
other.
Mark 7 points on front door
Points should be 1.5”

(38mm) from left hinge
edge.
Top point should be 3.5”

(89mm) from top.
Points should be 1”
(25.5mm) apart.
Note: 7th (bottom) point is

optional for 7th axis travel
track.
Mark additional point on

front door of enclosure as
shown.
Point should be 1.5”

(38mm) from left edge.
Point should be 4”
(102mm) from bottom.
Mark point in upper left
corner of door as shown.

(38mm)
From top of door.

(38mm)
From left hinge side of
door.
Use threaded ring from air

vent to trace circle on
enclosure door as shown.
Circle should be 3” (76mm)

from right edge of door.
Circle should be 3” (76mm)

from top edge of door.
Use an oscillating multi tool
saw to cut out the hole for
the rocker switch module.
Use an oscillating multi tool

saw to cut out the hole for
the air vent and the (3)
RJ45 ports.
Drill lower two holes for
USB ports using stepped
drill bit as shown.
Holes should be drilled to

size: .875” (22mm)
Drill (8) aviation plug holes

using stepped drill bit as
shown.
Holes should be drilled to

size: .625” (16mm)
Drill emergency stop button
hole using stepped drill bit
as shown.
Hole should be drilled to

size: 1” (25mm)
Install rocker switch module

and then drill 2 mounting
holes as shown using #38
(.108) drill.
Secure rocker switch
module using (2) #6 thread
forming screws.
Install (2) USB panel

feedthru jacks and drill
mounting holes using #38
(.108) drill.
Secure USB feedthru jacks
using (4) #6 thread forming
screws.
Install (3) RJ45 panel

feedthru jacks and drill
mounting holes using #38
(.108) drill.
Secure RJ45 feedthru jacks
using (6) #6 thread forming
screws.
Install emergency stop

button as shown in upper
left corner of enclosure
door as shown.
Install air vent as shown in
upper right corner of
enclosure door as shown.
With 24vdc power supply

upside down on surface,
fold sheet of paper and lay
sheet of paper across
bottom of power supply as
shown.
Use pencil to punch holes
through paper where power
supply mounting holes are
located. This sheet of
paper will be used as a
template for drilling holes in
the enclosure wall.
Place template as shown

along bottom right wall of
enclosure and then use felt
pen to mark mounting
holes on enclosure wall.
Drill (4) marked holes using
#20 or 4mm size drill.
Secure power supply to

bottom rightof enclosure as
shown using (4) 3mm
button head cap screws.
Cut DIN rail to length of 5”
(127mm) and then install
(16) terminal blocks as
shown.
Cut jumpers strips down to

(8) pairs of jumpers as
shown.
Install jumpers into
terminals as shown. You
will now have (8) pairs of
cross connected terminals.
Alternate jumper position

high/low as shown and
make sure there is no
opportunity for jumpers to
touch one another.
Secure DIN rail terminal

assembly as shown using
(2) #6 thread forming
screws.
Use 18awg green wire to
connect bottom terminal on
rocker switch module to
first pair of DIN rail
terminals as shown.
Note: Use crimp slide

connector to connect end
of wire attached to rocker
switch module.
Use 18awg white wire to

connect second from
bottom right terminal on
rocker switch module to
second pair of DIN rail
terminals as shown.

switch module.
Use 18awg black wire to
connect second from top
left terminal on rocker
switch module to third pair
of DIN rail terminals as
shown.

switch module.
Use 18awg black wire to

create jumper and connect
2 middle right terminal on
rocker switch as shown.

connectors on both ends of
wire to rocker switch
module.
Use 18awg green wire and
connect to bottom of first
(ground) pair of DIN
terminals.
Use 18awg white wire and

connect to bottom of
second (neutral) pair of DIN
terminals.
Use 18awg black wire and

connect to bottom of third
(line) pair of DIN terminals.
Use mounting hole cable tie

and #6 thread forming
screw to secure wires as
shown.
Route the green, white and

black wires to 24vdc power
supply as shown.
Use (2) additional mounting

hole cable ties and #6
thread forming screws to
secure wires as shown.
At the 24vdc power supply
terminals connect the
green wire to the ground
terminal, connect the white
wire to the neutral or “N”
terminal and connect the
black wire to the line of “L”
terminal as shown.
Mount 5vdc power supply

in the location shown.
Use (2) #6 thread forming

screws to secure power
supply.
NOTE: Upper right hole in

backplane will need to be
marked and drilled.
Use 18awg green wire and
connect second wire to
bottom of first (ground) pair
of DIN terminals.
Use 18awg white wire and

bottom of second (neutral)
pair of DIN terminals.
Use 18awg black wire and

bottom of third (line) pair of
DIN terminals.
Route second pair of

green, white and black
wires to 5vdc power supply
as shown.
Use (1) additional mounting

hole cable tie and #6 thread
forming screws to secure
wires as shown.
At the 5vdc power supply
terminals connect the
green wire to the ground
terminal, connect the white
wire to the neutral or “N”
terminal and connect the
black wire to the line of “L”
terminal as shown.
Use 22awg red and black

wires; at the 5vdc power
supply terminals connect
the black wire to the V-
terminal, connect the red
wire to the V+ terminal.
Route the black and red
wires from 5vdc power
supply to the 4th and 5th set
shown.
Use (1) mounting hole

cable tie with #6 thread
forming screw to secure
wires to backplane and
then use (3) adhesive cable
tie mounts to secure wires
to enclosure walls as
shown.
Connect 22awg black wire

from 5vdc power supply to
4th pair of DIN rail
terminals.
Connect 22awg red wire

terminals.
Use 18awg brown and blue
wires; at the 24vdc power
supply terminals connect
the brown wire to the V+
terminal, connect the blue
wire to the V- terminal.
Route the brown and blue

wires from 24vdc power
supply to the 6th and 7th set
shown.
Use (3) adhesive cable tie

mounts to secure wires to
enclosure walls as shown.
Connect 18awg blue wire
terminals.
Connect 18awg brown wire

terminals.
Place relay mount in

position shown and mark 4
mounting holes with
marker.
Right side of relay mount

should be approx. 5mm
from power supply and
15mm from bottom front
edge of enclosure.
Drill (4) marked holes using
#20 or 4mm size drill.
Use M3 tap to thread all (4)

holes in relay mount.
Secure 8 channel relay
module to relay mount
using (4) M3 cap screws.
Secure relay module and

mount assembly to bottom
of enclosure using (4) 3mm
button head cap screws,
(4) 3mm washers and (4)
3mm hex nuts.
Install (1) GX16-2 aviation
plug socket in enclosure
door in bottom hole above
RJ45 connectors as shown.
Note: make sure that

socket alignment notch is
mounted in the up position.
Connect length of 22awg

black wire to 4th pair of DIN
rail terminals (-5vdc).
Connect length of 22awg
red wire to 5th pair of DIN
rail terminals (+5vdc).
Use adhesive cable tie

mount and cable ties on left
enclosure wall and route
wires down left side of
enclosure wall and then
down to the bottom.
Use adhesive cable mount
on bottom of enclosure and
route the 2 wires as shown
down to bottom of
enclosure.
Note: cut and strip wire

ends as shown.
Cut and strip ends from (2)

female end breadboard
jumper wires as shown.
One jumper should be red

and the other black.
Slide length of 2mm heat
shrink tube over each wire.

silver bearing rosin core
electrical solder to solder
ends of red and black 5vdc
supply wires to ends of
female bread board jumper
wires as shown.
Slide heat shrink tube over
solder joints and then use
head gun to shrink tubing
around joint.
Connect red wire female

connector to VCC terminal
of relay module.
Connect black wire female

connector to GND terminal
of relay module.
Secure wires to base of

enclosure using adhesive
mount cable tie as shown.
Install Stepper drivers as
shown along left side of
enclosure and secure to
backplane using #6 thread
forming screws.
• Starting at the top install
(3) DM542T drivers for axis
1,2 &3.
• Then install (1) DM320T
driver for axis 4.
• Then install (2) more
DM542T drivers for axis 5
& 6.
If you are going to build a
travel track you can install
one additional DM542T driver
at the bottom (this is optional)
NOTE the drivers used in
this manual are blue in
color but the DM542T are
black and are identical to
the ones shown in this
manual.
NOTE: When installing

drivers you will need to drill
left hole in backplane.
You can use an extended

drill bit as shown or use
driver as template then
mark and drill each hole
prior to installation.
from 7th pair of DIN rail
terminals (+24vdc) to
bottom terminal on E-Stop
button as shown.
NOTE: Leave enough

slack so that door will open
and close fully.

from top terminal on E-Stop
button to 5th terminal on top
stepper driver shown.
NOTE: 5th terminal on

stepper driver is labeled
“AC” or “+Vdc”
Use (1) adhesive cable
mount and (3) cable ties to
secure brown wires as
shown.
Cut (6) lengths of 18awg

brown wire approx. 70mm
long.
Then jumper the wires

down from the top stepper
driver to each stepper
driver below.
The brown wire should be

connected to the 5th
terminal on each driver as
shown.

“AC” or “+Vdc”
Connect 18awg blue wire
from 6th pair of DIN rail
terminals (-24vdc) to the 6th
terminal on stepper driver
as shown.

“AC” or “GND”
Cut (6) lengths of 18awg

blue wire approx. 70mm
long.
Then jumper the wires

down from the top stepper
driver to each stepper
driver below.
The brown wire should be

connected to the 6th
terminal on each driver as
shown.

“AC” or “GND”
Cut (6) lengths of 4 strand
cable approx. 500mm long
Cut a 7th if installing driver

for a 7th axis travel track.

electrical solder to tin the
wire ends with solder as
shown. Also pre-apply
solder to the solder
connection joints on the
aviation plugs.
Solder wires as shown to
the rear of the GX16-4
aviation plug.
The diagram below shows

which terminals to solder
each wire color.
NOTE: this is showing the

connector from the
backside where wires
connect.
Repeat this for all

motor/driver wires.
Install each GX16-4 with
motor driver wire as shown.
Mark the ends of each wire

so that you can easily
identify which driver each
wire will go to.
The wire from the top plug

will go to axis 1, the next
down will go to axis 2 and
so on down to the bottom
plug.
NOTE: Bottom plug is

optional for 7th axis travel
track.
Install adhesive cable
mount in on inside lip of
door just below center
hinge and bundle all driver
wires as shown.
Connect each driver cable

to its corresponding driver.
(top cable to the top driver
and so on down to the
bottom cable to the bottom
driver)
Connect each color wire to

the labeled terminals as
follows:
BLACK = A+
GREEN = A-
RED = B+
WHITE = B-
This picture shows a close
up view of each wire
connected to one of the
drivers.
Use cutters to cut (2) 40 pin

PCB header pin strips
down to be 24 pins long as
shown.
Place Teensy 3.5 board
upside down on PCB
header pin strips as shown.

electrical solder to solder
each of the PCB female
header pins to the
terminals on Teensy 3.5
controller.
Each joint should be
completely soldered as
shown.
Teensy 3.5 controller

should look like this after
soldering both lengths of
header pins.
Use (4) 3mm screws to
secure Arduino Mega 2560
to 3D printed mount as
shown.
Use small amount of

silicone along center rib to
mount Teensy 3.5 to 3D
printed mount as shown.
Secure Arduino/Teensy
mount assembly to
backplane using (4) #6
thread forming screws in
position shown.
Cut yellow, blue and red
Ethernet cables to length of
50cm (20”)
Remove 5cm (2”) of outer

sheathing and strips ends
of each wire.
Note: save remaining end

of yellow, blue and red
Ethernet cables for use in
assembly of the robot.
Cut and strip ends of (21)

jumper wires as shown.
You will need (3) of each

color: green, yellow,
orange, grey, blue and
white.
Each wire should be

approx. 110mm long.
Slide length of 2mm heat
shrink tube over each wire.
Cut and remove (brown –

white/brown stripe) pair of
wires from yellow Ethernet
cable.
Use soldering iron and silver
bearing rosin core electrical
solder to solder jumper wires
to Ethernet wires as follows:
• Blue jumper wire to blue

Ethernet wire.
• White jumper wire to blue
stripe Ethernet wire.
• Orange jumper wire to
orange Ethernet wire.
• Yellow jumper to orange
stripe Ethernet wire
• Green jumper wire to
green Ethernet wire.
• Grey jumper wire to green
stripe Ethernet wire.
This diagram shows the

transition soldering the
jumper wires (top) to the
Ethernet cable wires
(bottom).
Slide heat shrink tubing
over each solder joint and
then use heat gun to shrink
tubing.
Repeat the previous 4

steps for the red and blue
Ethernet wires as shown.
Connect the red Ethernet
cable wires to the Teensy
3.5 as follows:
• Yellow to Teensy pin

#14
• Orange to Teensy pin
#15
• Blue to Teensy pin #16
• White to Teensy pin #17
• Grey to Teensy pin #18
• Green to Teensy pin #19
NOTE: The red cable will

be used for the encoders
on Joints 1, 2 & 3.

wire connections for the red
Ethernet cable to the
Teensy 3.5 as outlined in
the previous step.
Connect the blue Ethernet
cable wires to the Teensy
3.5 as follows:

#20
#21
NOTE: The red cable will

be used for the encoders
on Joints 4, 5 & 6.

wire connections for the
blue Ethernet cable to the
the previous step.
Connect the yellow
Ethernet cable wires to the
Teensy 3.5 as follows:

#26
#27
NOTE: The yellow cable

will be used for the 6
calibration limit switches on
the robot.

wire connections for the
yellow Ethernet cable to the
the previous step.
Use mounting hole cable tie
and #6 thread forming
screw to secure the red,
blue and yellow Ethernet
cables to backplane as
shown.
Connect other end of blue,

red and yellow Ethernet
cable to RJ45 panel jacks
as shown.
NOTE: Yellow should be

closest to the hinge, red in
the middle and blue toward
the outside of door.
Cut and strip ends from
22awg red wire as follows:
(6) Pieces 80mm long
(6) Pieces 45mm long
Also cut (1) jumper wire in

half and strip end as
shown.
Use wire ferules and

crimper to string all (13)
wires together as shown.
String groups of (2) 45mm

jumpers for each driver with
the exception of the axis 4
driver which will have a
single jumper going to the
Opto terminal and standard
jumper wire that goes to
the teensy 3.3v terminal.
Use 22awg ferrules (white)

for single end wires.
Use 16awg ferrules (black)
for triple wire connections.
The next step is to run 3.3vdc
to all the (+3.3v) terminals
across all of the stepper
drivers. The drivers are NPN
or negative switching which
means the step and direction
pulses will be made by the
negative wire and the positive
is high or on all the time on all
the (+3.3v) terminals. Each
driver has (2) positive
terminals that require a
constant +3.3v signal:
• PUL(+3.3 – 5V)
• DIR(+3.3 – 5V)
NOTE: when you get to the J4
DM320T driver it only as one
(+3.3 or 5) terminal which is
labeled “Opto”.
(Also refer to the wiring

schematic chapter)
Make sure that the jumper

wire from the J4 terminal
gets plugged into the 3.3V
terminal on the Teensy 3.5
as shown.
This will supply 3.3V to all

drivers.
Connect a pair of
breadboard jumper wires
(black & white)
From Teensy 3.5 to the J1
driver.
Black wire:
Teensy pin 0 to driver
PUL-
White wire:
DIR-
Connect a pair of
(grey & purple)
driver.
Grey wire:
PUL-
Purple wire:
DIR-
Connect a pair of
(blue & green)
driver.
Blue wire:
PUL-
Green wire:
DIR-
Connect a pair of
(yellow & orange)
driver.
Yellow wire:
PUL-
Orange wire:
DIR-
Connect a pair of
(red & brown)
driver.
Red wire:
PUL-
Brown wire:
DIR-
Connect a pair of
(black & white)
driver.
Black wire:
PUL-
White wire:
DIR-
Connect a pair of
(grey & purple)
(optional travel track)
driver.
Grey wire:
PUL-
Purple wire:
DIR-
This image shows an

overview of the pulse and
direction pin wiring to the
Teensy 3.5 shown in the
previous 7 steps.
NOTE: remember each of

the wires from the Teensy
3.5 get wired to the
negative pulse or direction
input terminal on the driver.
Connect USB cables to
Arduino Mega 2560 and
Teensy 3.5 as shown.
Connect USB cables to

USB panel jacks in door as
shown.
NOTE: Teensy 3.5 cable

should be closest to door
hinge.
Solder lengths of 22awg
red and black wire to
GX16-2 plug as shown.
Solder and heat shrink red

and black jumper wires to
wires coming from GX16-2
plug and then connect
them to the Teensy 3.5 on
pins Vin & GND
Connect black jumper wire
from GND terminal on
Mega 2560 board to -5vdc
terminal (4th terminal block
set).
This allows the Arduino

mega to share a ground
connection with the 8 relay
board so the relay board
functions correctly.
Connect extended jumper
wire from Arduino 2560 to
4th pair of DIN rail terminals
as shown.
Note: You should now

have GND jumpered from
the -5vdc power supply to
the Arduino so that both
share a common ground.
Connect ribbon of (8)

jumper wires from Arduino
pin 28 through pin 35.
These jumpers should be

male on the end connecting
to the Arduino and female
at the other end.
• Black to pin 28
• White to pin 29
• Grey to pin 30
• Purple to pin 31
• Blue to pin 32
• Green to pin 33
• Yellow to pin 34
• Orange to pin 35
This diagram shows
connection of the (8)
jumper wires to pins 28
through 35 of the Arduino
illustrated in the previous
step.
Extend the (8) jumper wires

with another ribbon of
jumper wires that are the
same colors.
This ribbon of jumper wires

will again be male to
female.
Connect ribbon of jumper
wires to 8 channel relay board
as follows:
• Black to relay pin 1

• White to relay pin 2
• Grey to relay pin 3
• Purple to relay pin 4
• Blue to relay pin 5
• Green to relay pin 6
• Yellow to relay pin 7
• Orange to relay pin 8
Note: Relay module is for

general purpose needs such
as a gripper solenoid – please
see chapter on gripper wiring.
When closing enclosure

door, wires and cables can
be tight when an optional
7th axis driver has been
installed.
Make sure USB cables

travel down below 7th axis
driver and to the left of the
8 channel relay board.
Make sure Ethernet cables
bend down away from 7th
axis driver as shown.
Make sure all motor driver

cables coil neatly as shown
and that door closes easily.
Robot Motor Cables
You will need to make 6
cables for the robot and a
7th if you are building a
travel track.
Cut each 18awg 4
conductor cable to
whatever length you need –
in this example I have cut
each cable to 6’ long.
Strip 10mm of outer

sheathing off each end of
cable and then pre-install
GX16-4 aviation plug metal
housing over cable end as
shown.
Strip 5mm sheathing off
each wire and then tin each
wire with solder as shown.
Pre apply solder to each

contact on GX16-4 aviation
plug connector.
Solder wires to each
contact on GX16-4 aviation
plug connector – see
following steps for wire
position.
Cables are “straight through” -

solder wires on each end of
cable mirror image to the other
as shown in the sketch and
photo shown.
Wrap electrical tape around
solder joints to prevent any
potential short on
connector housing.
Slide connector housing

over connector and install
screw.
Tighten screws on wire
clamp.
Repeat this process for

each cable needed.

for the robot and (1) if
building a travel track.
Robot 5v Power Cable
You will also need (1)
power cable to supply 5vdc
to the robot to power the
encoders and the limit
switches.
Cut length of 18awg 4

conductor cable to
whatever length you need,
in this example I have cut
cable to 6’ long. Cable
should be the same length
as the motor cables you
made in the previous steps.
Strip 10mm of outer

sheathing off each end of
cable and then pre-install
GX16-2 aviation plug metal
housing over cable end as
shown.
Use cutters to remove the

white and green wires
leaving only (2) wires (red
and black) for the 5vdc
power.
With slot facing up solder
red wire on right side and
black wire on left side.
Do this for both ends of

cable.
Wrap solder joints with

electrical tape to avoid the
possibility of solder
connections shorting on the
aviation plug housing.
Slide aviation plug housing
into place over end
connector, tighten and
install screws.
5vdc power cable is

complete.
DIP SWITCH SETTING
THESE SETTINGS ARE USED FOR THE FOLLOWING SERIES MOTORS:
• J1 - 17HS15-1684D-HG10 1/2 STEPS 1.46 AMP

• J2 - 23HS22-2804D-HG50 1/2 STEPS 2.37 AMP
• J3 - 17HS15-1684D-HG50 1/2 STEPS 1.46 AMP
• J4 - 11HS20-0674D-PG14 1/2 STEPS .5 AMP
• J5 - 17LS19-1684E-200G-C1 1/4 STEPS 1.00 AMP
• J6 - 14HS13-0804D-PG19 1/2 STEPS 1.00 AMP
• J7 – Nema 17 48mm body 1/2 STEPS 1.00 AMP
J1 – (DM542T):
SW1 = OFF SW2 = ON SW3 = ON SW4 = ON
J2 – (DM542T):
SW1 = OFF SW2 = OFF SW3 = ON SW4 = ON
J3 – (DM542T):
J4 – (DM320T):
SW1 = ON SW2 = OFF SW3 = ON
SW4 = ON SW5 = ON SW6 = ON
J5 – (DM542T):
SW1 = ON SW2 = ON SW3 = ON SW4 = ON
SW5 = ON SW6 = OFF SW7 = ON SW8 = ON
J6 – (DM542T):
SW1 = ON SW2 = ON SW3 = ON SW4 = OFF
278
NOTE: If using a 7th joint travel track (nema 17) use the same setting as J1.
CHAPTER 4
SCHEMATICS
279
Wiring for Drivers and Teensy 3.5
280
Wiring for Encoders
(Enclosure side)
Wiring for
Encoders
(Robot side)
Wiring for Limit Switches
Wiring for Arduino Mega 2560
Note that the wire colors for
the J5 motor are different
from the other motors.
In the robot assembly

chapter the steps for
connecting each motor will
show how to connect each
color wire.
CHAPTER 5
ROBOT GRIPPERS
The recommended gripper for the AR3 robot is the

SMC model MHF2-8D shown in the Bill of Materials.
You can use any pneumatic or electric servo gripper of
your choosing. You can modify the J6 flange mount or
create your own to use any gripper you like. The
following page shows some notes on wiring for a servo
gripper vs a pneumatic gripper.
286
If using a servo gripper you would connect your servo to
one of the Arduino analog pins 0 through 7 and then use
the “Servo” position command button to control your
gripper.
287
If using a pneumatic gripper you would connect a
24vdc solenoid valve to one of the relay outputs
(Arduino outputs 28 through 36) and then use the
“Set Output On” and “Set Output Off” commands to
program relays to control your gripper.
288
Solenoid valves for controlling pneumatic grippers tend
to interrupt the serial connection to the controller. If
you find the Teensy or Arduino are losing connection
when the solenoid valve actuates install a flyover diode
across the solenoid terminals (revers bias).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode
289
CHAPTER 6
ROBOT SPECIFICATIONS
290
Reach – 24.75 inches (62.9cm)
Payload – 4.15 lbs (1.9kg)
Repeatability - .2mm
Robot weight (aluminum) – 27lbs (12.25kg)
Enclosure weight – 12.5lbs (5.6kg)
Max Power Consumption – 8.25amp (198 watts)
291
CHAPTER 7
STARTUP PROCEEDURE
292
AR3 Robot Startup & Troubleshooting
Before powering up your control box double check all connections per the wiring schematic.
Check continuity on all wires and connectors for each motor, encoder and limit switch. It is
imperative that all wire connectors are crimped or soldered carefully and checked with a volt
meter.
It is recommended that you plug in each of the (3) Ethernet cables prior to plugging in the
USB port for the Teensy 3.5.
Use (3) high quality shielded Ethernet cables and connect the enclosure encoder and limit
switch ports to the robot encoder and limit switch ports as shown in the diagram below:
293
Connect the motor extension cables and 5vdc power cables from the control enclosure to
the robot base as corresponds to the numbers shown below.
294
Connect (2) USB cables from PC to enclosure as shown below.
Please review this video on the startup and software installation:

AR3 Startup Video
295
As shown in the setup video follow the instruction on this page to
install the Teensyduino loader software:
https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html
Install the latest version of the Arduino IDE that is supported by

Teensyduino:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/main/software
Download and install the ARCS_teensy_sketch onto the teensy 3.5

board.
Download and install the ARCS_Arduino_sketch onto the Mega

2560 board.
Download and open the ARCS control software then set the com
ports on the main controls tab for both the teensy 3.5 and the
Arduino Mega 2560.
Before attempting to auto calibrate the robot jog each axis using
joint mode a small amount in each direction.
Verify each joint is jogging the correct direction per the joint
direction drawings at the end of this document.
If a particular joint jogs the same direction regardless of pressing the

+ or – direction buttons you likely have a wiring issue with the
direction wire from the Arduino to the driver.
If a joint does not move at all but others do you likely have an issue
with the step wire from the Arduino to the driver.
296
Do not use the auto calibrate button the first time, calibrate each
joint one at a time using the individual joint calibration buttons.
Have your hand on the E-Stop button the first time so that you
can stop the robot and cut power if there is an issue with each
limit switch and the robot tries to overdrive the joint.
You can also manually trigger the switch with your finger before
the robot contacts the switch to give you extra time to hit the E-
Stop in the event there is a wiring issue and robot doesn’t stop
moving when the switch is made.
Once all joints and switches are verified to be stopping and

calibrating you can then use the auto calibrate to calibrate all joints
at the same time.
Once your robot is jogging correctly and calibration is complete

you can now begin using and programming your robot. Please
review each of the tutorial on this page:
https://www.anninrobotics.com/tutorials
297
298
299
CHAPTER 8
ROBOT PROGRAMMING
1. COMMUNICATION
2. SPEED / ACCELERATION /
DECELERATION
3. JOGGING
4. PROGRAMMING
5. CALIBRATION
300
1. COMMUNICATION
Determine which com port your Teensy 3.5 and Arduino Mega is
communicating on, you can find this Using Windows device
manager, or you can open the Arduino sketch and click on the
tools menu and then click on Port. Enter this in the "COM PORT"
entry field for the device and click "Set Com". You should only
have to do this once as the software will remember which com
port the next time you open it.
301
2. SPEED / ACCELERATION / DECELERATION
The robots speed is set as a percentage of max speed. If you set

the speed to 100 this will be the fastest the robot can move.
Typical speed for jogging is between 10% and 25%. The
acceleration and deceleration settings each have 2 parameters: a
duration and a percentage. The duration is the percentage of the
move you want the robot to accelerate or decelerate through,
for example if you have a move that is 100mm long and you want
the robot to quickly accelerate for only the first 5mm (or 5% of
the move) you could set the Dur setting to 5 and then if you
wanted the robot to come to a more gradual stop over the last
25mm (or 25% of the move) you could set the deceleration
duration setting to 25. The second value which is percentage is a
measure of amplitude, for example if you set the "speed %"
setting to 10% it will accelerate or decelerate within 10% of
whatever the speed setting is. For example, if your overall speed
is 25% and your deceleration is 10% the robot will decelerate
from 25% down to 2.5%. The Speed, Acc and Dec setting apply
both to jogging and are applied to any positions you teach.
302
3. JOGGING
In the degrees to jog box enter the number of degrees you wish
the robot to move and then press the corresponding "-" or "+"
button to move each joint. When jogging in joint mode You can
also jog the robot in individual motor steps by checking the "Jog
joint in steps" radio button. The second row of jog buttons allow
you to jog the robot in Cartesian coordinates; enter the distance
in millimeters you wish the robot to move and press the
corresponding "-" or "+" to jog the robot. The third row of jog
buttons allow you to jog the robot in tool coordinates; enter the
distance in millimeters you wish the robot to move and press the
corresponding "-" or "+" to jog the robot - this jogs the robot
according to the gripper: think of it as jogging the gripper around
depending on whatever direction it is oriented.
You can also jog the robot using an Xbox controller. Install the
Xbox software per the windows PC Xbox controller adapter
directions. To test it In the Windows start menu type joy.cpl and
then click on the menu option for the Xbox controller, this will
bring up a window that you can verify all the buttons are working.
In this AR2 software click the Xbox button, the indicators on the
screen should turn green and allow you to jog the robot per the
button list in the next section. When you turn on Xbox control all
jog distances are set to start at 5. All jogging is done with the D
pad (analog sticks are not used). There are 3 modes for Xbox
jogging - joint, Cartesian and reorient. The controller starts in joint
mode where the D pad will start out controlling J1 and J2, you can
then press the X button to shift to control J3 and J4, then press X
303 to shift to J5 and J6.
again
Press the A button to shift to Cartesian jogging, you then can
jog axis X and Y using the D pad. Press the X button again to
shift to axis Z. Press the B button to control orientation
directions.
- jog distance up / down (L & R trigger buttons)

- speed up / down (L & R bumper buttons)
- shift joint mode (X button)
- shift Cartesian mode (A button)
- shift reorient mode (B button)
- jog track (back button)
- jog directions (use D pad)
- teach position (Y button) *this will implement whichever
move type you have selected from the dropdown.
- first DO on/off assignment on Input Output tab (start button)
*typical use for open close gripper
304
3. PROGRAMMING
a. Teaching Positions
Always select row in program window where you want the next
move or instruction to be placed. From the move type drop down
button select the move type you wish to insert and then press the
"Teach New Position" button to insert the position into your
program. All moves will apply the speed, acceleration and
deceleration setting you have set to the move. Position move types
are as follows:
- Move J - Move J is a joint move where all joints work together to

complete the move, this will not necessarily be a straight line but a
sweeping motion with all joints working together. This is the
simplest and most common move to use.
- OFFS J - this is a joint move that is offset by the values of a

stored position. this move will apply whatever stored position
number you have set in the stored position field that is just above
the "Teach New Position" button. (stored positions are explained
in further detail below in the entry for Move SP).
- Move L - Move L is a linear move, this will execute a perfectly

straight line to the position you teach. This program must send a
series of waypoints that form the line to the Arduino, there is a
couple second delay before any Move L while all waypoints are
being transmitted.
305
- Move A - Move A is an arc move. You must teach 3 points to
form an arc. First select "Move A beg" and teach the start point
for your arc - the speed and orientation values for this first point
will be applied to the entire arc move. Second you need to teach
any mid-point on the arc - select "Move A Mid" and teach the
second point. Finally select "Move A End" and teach the point you
want at the end or your arc. Your command window will now have
3 lines of code in a row for each of the 3 points. When a "Move A
Beg" line of code is executed the program will automatically run
the next 2 lines of code to calculate the arc. The move will not
work if these are out of order. There is a couple second delay
before the Move A will execute while all waypoints to form the arc
are being transmitted to the Arduino.
- Move C - Move C is a circle move. You must teach 3 points to

form a circle. First select "Move C center" and teach the center
point for your circle - the speed and orientation values for this
first point will be applied to the entire circle move. Second you
need to teach the start point on the circumference of the circle
where you want the robot to begin and end the circle - select
"Move C Start" and teach the second point. Finally select "Move C
Plane" and teach a point anywhere on the same plane you want
your circle, this point is only used to know which direction you
want the circle to go and this third point defines the plane - in
other words just teach another point on the circles circumference
- it doesn’t really matter where it is, it’s not an executed point and
only used for calculation
306
. Your command window will now have 3 lines of code in a row
for each of the 3 points. When a "Move C Start" line of code is
executed the program will automatically run the next 2 lines of
code to calculate the circle. The move will not work if these are
out of order. There is a couple second delay before the Move C
will execute while all waypoints to form the arc are being
transmitted to the Arduino.
307
- Move SP - SP stands for stored position. In the registers tab there
are 16 stored positions you can set. You can set or save the
X,Y,Z,Y,P,R for any position you want to execute later or multiple
places in your program. When you teach a Move SP the robot will
move to the position you have entered for the stored position on
the register tab. *Stored positions can also be used for offsets - for
example if you want the robot to come in above your part you may
want to use an offset move with a stored position 25mm up in the
Z direction - example: (0,0,-25,0,0,0).
- OFFS SP - this moves the robot to a stored position and then

offsets that position by the value in another stored position. This is
useful for stacking and placing parts in rows. This move will use the
value in the stored position field that is just above the "Teach New
Position" button for the primary move to execute, then for the
stored position that it will be offset by it automatically picks the
next stored position - but you can use the manual entry field to
edit which stored position the move will be offset by (see section
below on editing).
308
- Teach SP - this move command will insert 6 lines into your
program which when executed will store the robots current
position into a stored position register of your choice. This makes
it easier to populate stored positions as you need.
The Stored Position button will allow you to enter lines of code
that set individual elements of the X,Y,Z,Y,P,R in a stored position.
The modify position button is only used with Move J and allow
you to modify the Move J line in your program that is currently
highlighted.
The Delete button allows you to delete any line of code that is
currently selected.
b. Pausing
- The wait time button inserts a line that will pause the program
for the amount of time entered in seconds.
- The wait input on button will wait for the Arduino input entered
in the entry field to come on before moving forward in the
program. This can be used as a way to make the robot wait for
something else to happen before proceeding or it can be placed at
the beginning of a program as a way to have an automated start
signal.
- The wait input off button will wait for the Arduino input entered
in the entry field to turn off before moving forward in the
program.
309
c. IO
- The set output on or set output off buttons allow you to insert a
line of code that will turn Arduino IO of your choice on or off (see
bottom on input outputs tab for available IO pins on the Arduino
Mega). For example, if you have a pneumatic gripper you would
hook up your solenoid per the wiring harness manual to output
Arduino pin #38 and ender a line of code "Out On = 38" to
control your gripper.
d. Navigation
You can create as many program routines as you like. Enter the
name of the program you would like to create in the program field
and press "load program", if the program does not already exist it
will be created, if you have already created a program of that name
it will be loaded. Programs are created in your AR2 software folder
and can be deleted from that file location if no longer needed.
- The "Call Program" button allows you to insert a line of code that
calls a program.
- The "Return" button inserts a line of code that will allow the
called program to return to the program it came from. *note you
cannot call another program from within a program that has already
been called, you must return to the main program before calling
another program. For example, you will likely want to create a
program called "Main" from that program you might call a program
called "Pickup Part" at the end of pickup part you will want to
insert a "Return" line to get back to the "Main" program, then you
can do other things or call other programs. You cannot call another
program from "Pickup Part" you must first return to the main
program.
310
- the "Create Tab" button allows you to create markers in your
program that you can jump or navigate to based on conditions.
*note you cannot have 2 tabs with the same number - each tab
needs a new number. This functionality is very similar to basic
programming.
- The "Jump to Tab" button allows you to jump to a tab, for example
you could put "Tab 1" at the top of your program and at the
bottom put a "Jump to Tab 1" and then your program would loop
indefinitely.
The "If Register Jump" button allows you to jump to a tab based on
the condition of a register. For example you could have a looping
program as previously described but then add a line into your
program that increments a register and then add a line prior to
"Jump to Tab 1" that says "If Register 1 = 5 Jump to Tab 2" and then
place a "Tab 2" at the very bottom after "Jump to Tab 1" so that the
program will run 5 times and then jump to Tab 2 and stop.
311
e. Registers
The "Register" button allows you to set a register to a static value
or you can add a "++" before the number and the register will then
be incremented by the amount. For example, if you just enter a "1"
it will always set that register to a value of 1 but if you enter "++1"
it will then increment that register by 1 every time the line is run
so that you can use this for counting. You can enter any number, for
example you could enter "++3" and count by 3's if you like. The
same is true for counting down or decrementing - just place a "--"
before the number.
f. Servos
The Servo button allows you to control external servos - it’s not
for the robot itself, it’s for use if you have a servo gripper or a
servo actuator that you want the robot program to control. For
example, if you had a servo gripper that you had hooked up to
Arduino pin A0 per the wiring harness manual you could then
insert a line of code "Servo number 0 to position: 180" to open the
gripper and "Servo number 0 to position: 0" to close your gripper.
312
g. Editing lines of code
You can select a line of code in you command window and then
press the "get selected" button, this will copy that line into the
manual entry field. You can now edit the line of code in the manual
entry field, some examples might be: changing the stored position
number, changing a position, changing the robot speed or
acceleration. Now with your edited line of code you can reselect
the original line of code in your command window and then press
the "replace" button and the old line of code will be replaced with
the new edited line. The "insert" button will insert the test from
the manual entry field into your program without replacing - you
can use this to insert comments or hand written lines of code using
the insert button, this can be used to copy a line of code from the
program and then paste or insert in in numerous places in the
program.
313
4. CALIBRATION
a. Auto Calibration
Pressing the auto calibration button will auto calibrate all axis. The
robot will run to its full limit in the default directions and set each of
the joint values accordingly. You can also use the individual buttons
to calibrate each axis one at a time.
b. Force to midrange Calibration

This button allows you to force each axis to be calibrated at its mid-
point. This is only used when setting up your robot - for example if
your robot is not yet calibrated and you are trying to jog a joint
around and you hit an axis limit this button will allow you to do
what you need to do before you can auto calibrate your robot.
Only use this button during construction and setup.
314
c. fine calibration
This feature allows you to set a reference position, so you can
check how true your calibration is given an event where you have
a bent limit switch or must replace a part of the robot. For
example, you can jog the robot to some reference position that
you know, perhaps with the robot holding a pointer and going to a
known spot, you could then press "teach fine calibration position"
to save this position. Then later you can press "Go to fine
calibration position" to return to the originally taught position and
check accuracy. If its off, you can jog the robot in small steps to
the correct calibration position and then press "execute fine
calibration" and your calibration will be adjusted to the original
reference position.
d. Direction Defaults
the calibration defaults are set to the side of the axis that the limit
switch is mounted on. If for example you were building your own
custom robot you could change these values to change the
direction the robot drives each axis to the calibration limit switch.
there are 6 values - one for each joint and they can only be a "0"
or "1" for negative direction or positive direction.
The motor direction outputs work in the same way and allow you
to change to motor drive direction from clockwise to
anticlockwise if you are building a custom robot and your
mechanics require a motor to spin the other way. again, there are
6 values - one for each joint and they can only be a "0" or "1" for
negative direction or positive direction.
315
e. Robot Calibration Values
The calibration values allow you to input the freedom of motion
for each joint and the number of stepper motor steps to make
that stroke happen. If building your own custom robot, you could
change these values to match your custom range of motion and
stepper gearing.
f. DH parameters - these are the Denavitt Hartengberg parameters

used to calculate the kinematics of the robot given the length and
orientation of each arm. Please see my videos on kinematics and
calibration before building your own custom robot and applying
these values.
5. IO TAB
The buttons on the IO tab are simply a shortcut for you to quickly
toggle servos or outputs. For example, if your gripper was wired to
Arduino output #38 you could enter 38 into one of the "DO ON /
OFF" fields and quickly open and close your gripper without having
to execute a line of code from the program console.
ALSO, PLEASE REFER TO ALL OF THE PROGRAMMING AND

CALIBRATION VIDEOS FOR FURTHER INFORMATION:
https://www.anninrobotics.com/tutorials
316
CHAPTER 9
OPEN LOOP VERSION (AR2)
317
There are a couple reasons one might want to build an open loop version of this robot. You
may have already built the AR2 and would like to upgrade your wiring as well as covers and
spacers to the AR3 version without the expense of purchasing dual shaft motors, or you may
want to save some money and not incur the added cost of the encoders. If you would like to
build the open loop version of the AR3 you can do so by following the instructions below:
• Follow chapter 2 on the robot assembly but skip each step that involves the installation
or wiring of the encoders.
• The 5vdc wire bundles would only have 6 wires instead of 12.
• Build the AR2 electrical enclosure as shown in the AR2 manuals but add the 5vdc GX16-2
aviation plug to your to your enclosure as shown in this manual. You would wire +5vdc
and -5vdc from the 5vcd power supply to the GX16-2 plug.
• Install and run the AR2 software as well as the AR2 arduino sketch for the Arduino Mega
as shown in the AR2 instructions.
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AR3 Robot Manul - 2

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Model AR3 Robot Manual

OPEN SOURCE 6 AXIS ROBOT

Components Needed to Build this Robot:

• Use medium strength thread locker on all screws.

• Arduino Mega and 8 Channel Relay Board

• Arduino / Teensy 3.5 mount

If you do not melt the ends

Using Crimp Quick Disconnects

Be sure to use a quality

Be sure to use a quality

This ensures a tight wire fit

After crimping always pull

Please also note that

Be very careful not to

Several steps in this

Strip wire ends of both

Insert length of heat shrink

Use soldering iron and

This is also known as

Slide the heat shrink tube

Gently sweep the flame

Do not use open flame

J1 BASE PLATE J1 TURRET HOUSING

J2 DRIVE SPINDE J2 TENSION RING

J3 BEARING CUP J3 SPINDLE

J4 MAIN SHAFT J5 MOTOR MOUNT

J5 HOUSING J5 BELT CARRIER & J5 BELT CARRIER

J6 MAIN BEARING ARM J6 HOUSING SINGLE PIECE

J1 BASE ENCLOSURE PART 1 J1 BASE ENCLOSURE PART 2

J1 BASE ENCLOSURE CAP J2 UPPER AND LOWER SIDE COVERS

J5 SIDE COVER SPACER J5 SIDE COVER CAP

J4 MOTOR SPACER – 4mm

Qty. (1) 30204 (20x47x15.25mm) taper Qty. (1) AXK3552/AS3552 (35x52x4mm)

Qty.(3) NTA1625 (1.00x1.5625x0.0781 Qty.(4) TRA1625 (1.000x1.5625x0.0312

Qty.(2) 04B 13 tooth 8mm bore 6mm pitch

Qty.(1) 8mm keyed rotary shaft (you will

Qty.(1) – 8mm square head screw –

#4 x .25 Flat Head Screw 6

Power Supply as well as

DM542T digital stepper

You will need (5) of these

Stepper drivers as well as

NOTE: the drivers shown

You will need (1) of these

(1) Bracket for the J4 motor

BUD Industries NBF-32026

This item is available from

BUD Industries NBX-

This item is available from

This item is available from

(1) Box #6 x 3/8 thread

This component must be

Printer settings used for

This component must be

Printer settings used for

This item is available from

20ft - 22awg red and black

This item is typically

This item is typically