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Art Appreciation

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ACORIN, ANNELIE M.

BS ECONOMICS 2B
DUMAS, MARY PILAR ART APPRECIATION

FILIPINO ENTREPRENEUR

Nelia Ardaniel: Inabel and Binakol Weaving

Nelia Ardaniel is an Inabel weaver from Abra, a region that is also


well-known for Cordillera weaving. She owns and manages Nelia
Ardaniel's Loomweaving, a micro-enterprise in La Paz, Abra that
employs local weavers from different generations.
Coming from the Ilocano word abel (weave), “inabel” can be
interpreted to mean a kind of sturdy but wearable textile found in the
Ilocano provinces of the Philippines. However, the term has
eventually developed to refer to a style of weaving that is distinctly
Ilocano.

A popular variation of the abel weave is the binakol (also known as


binakel, binakael, or binakul), which features geometric patterns
similar to those of optical illusions. This psychedelic design is meant
to represent waves, and its confusing pattern is believed to protect
the wearer from malicious spirits.
As an artisan in the Philippines, Ardaniel has been practicing the art
of inabel for more than 60 years. She continues to keep the spirit of
her culture alive by collaborating with different organizations and
participating in exhibits that aim to bring traditional weaving to more
Filipinos in the modern world.

Nelia Ardaniel’s Loomweaving is a manufacturing company registered


with the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) owned and
managed by Ms. Nelia Ardaniel. It is one of the micro-enterprises
located in Bulbulala, La Paz, Abra with workers whose skills were
passed on from one generation to another. Its workers are primarily
from the second and third generation of loom weavers in the locality.
For 60 years, Nelia Ardaniel from Abra has been making Binakol, one
of the many patterns of Inabel weave.
The most popular Binakol design is the optical illusion Kusikus
(whirlpool) or Alipugpug (whirlwind), which is thought to be the
abode of a ferocious wind god.

Coming from the Ilocano word abel (weave), “inabel” can be


interpreted to mean a kind of sturdy but wearable textile found in the
Ilocano provinces of the Philippines. However, the term has
eventually developed to refer to a style of weaving that is distinctly
Ilocano. A popular variation of the abel weave is the binakol (also
known as binakel, binakael, or binakul), which features geometric
patterns similar to those of optical illusions. This psychedelic design is
meant to represent waves, and its confusing pattern is believed to
protect the wearer from malicious spirits.

Through the years, the company has received various programs and
services provided by different line agencies, LGUs, private sector,
especially the Negosyo Center. Assistance in marketing, product
development, financing, business consultancies, and capacity
enhancement on skills and entrepreneurship, particularly the 2017
KMME program, was extended. With the assistance received, the
company’s loom weaving activity was developed. Even during this
time of the pandemic, her business still manages to operate. The
Department of Trade and Industry assisted her with her product
development.

The firm’s current product lines include fabrics/textiles in yards, table


runners, shawls, blankets, table napkins, placemats, pillowcases,
tapis, assorted bags, cellphone cases, chelecos (vest), polos, and
camisa de chino (Chinese shirt). Market coverage became wider
where products are not only sold in the Province of Abra but also
even as far as Cebu, La Union, Ilocos Sur, Ilocos Norte, and NCR.
Products became readily available due to the creation of a Facebook
page assisted by the Negosyo center which become their selling
platform during this time of the pandemic.

During the first year of the national crisis, the firm’s operation almost
stopped. But because of the non-stop assistance provided by the
DTI, like trainings and seminars, and product innovation, the firm
was able to cope with the massive effects brought by this pandemic.
Ms. Ardaniel is grateful for all the assistance she is receiving from the
agency, especially during this time.

HOW MUCH WOULD THEY SELL THEIR ARTS AND CRAFTS?

The price range Nelia Ardaniel’s Loomweaving is ₱840.00 - 2,000


PHP

METHODS AND WAYS OF PRODUCTION?

Binakol weaving is a traditional Filipino weaving technique used to


create intricate patterns on fabric, typically done on a backstrap
loom. While the exact process may vary depending on the specific
design and materials used, here are general steps to give you an idea
of how it's done:

Prepare the loom:

Set up the backstrap loom according to its instructions. This typically


involves securing one end of the loom to a fixed object (like a post)
and the other end around the weaver's back.
Adjust the tension of the loom to ensure the fabric will be woven
evenly.
Prepare the materials:

Choose the type of yarn or thread you want to use. Traditionally,


Binakol weaving uses cotton or abaca fibers.
Select the colors you want for your design. Binakol patterns often
involve several colors to create intricate designs.
Design the pattern:

Plan out the design you want to create on the fabric. Binakol patterns
can be quite complex and may involve geometric shapes, animals, or
traditional motifs.
Some weavers may use graph paper to map out their designs before
starting the weaving process.
Thread the loom:

Thread the warp threads onto the loom, ensuring they are evenly
spaced and under proper tension.
The warp threads should be the length of the fabric you want to
weave, plus extra for tying off at the end.
Begin weaving:

Start weaving the weft threads through the warp threads, following
your chosen pattern.
Depending on the complexity of the design, you may need to pick up
and drop certain warp threads to create the desired pattern.
Pay attention to tension:
Maintain consistent tension on the weft threads as you weave to
ensure the fabric comes out even.
Adjust the tension of the loom as needed to keep the fabric from
becoming too loose or too tight.
Change colors as needed:

If your design involves multiple colors, switch out the weft threads as
needed to create the desired color pattern.
Finishing touches:

Once you've woven the entire length of fabric, carefully remove it


from the loom.
Secure the ends of the fabric to prevent unraveling.
Depending on the intended use of the fabric, you may need to wash
or press it to finish the weaving process.
Optional embellishments:

Some weavers may choose to add additional decorative elements to


the finished fabric, such as embroidery or beadwork.
Practice and refine:

Binakol weaving requires skill and practice to master. Keep practicing


and experimenting with different designs and techniques to improve
your weaving skills.
Remember that Binakol weaving is a traditional art form with deep
cultural significance in the Philippines. Take your time to learn and
respect the techniques passed down through generations of weavers.

WHAT ARE THE COST OF PRODUCTION AND THE RAW


MATERIALS?

The raw materials used in Binakol weaving typically include:

Natural Fibers: Traditionally, Binakol weaving utilizes natural fibers


such as cotton or abaca (also known as Manila hemp). These fibers
are harvested from plants and processed to create threads suitable
for weaving.

Dye Materials: Depending on the desired colors for the woven fabric,
natural or synthetic dyes may be used. In traditional Binakol
weaving, natural dyes derived from plants, roots, or insects may be
preferred for their cultural significance and eco-friendliness.

Water: Water is used both in the dyeing process (if natural dyes are
used) and in preparing the fibers for weaving. It's essential for
washing and rinsing the fibers to remove impurities and prepare
them for dyeing.

Loom: A backstrap loom is the traditional type of loom used for


Binakol weaving. This loom consists of a frame secured to a
stationary object at one end and attached to the weaver's body at
the other end using a strap. The tension of the loom can be adjusted
to ensure even weaving.

Tools: Various tools are used in the weaving process, including


shuttles for passing the weft threads through the warp threads,
beaters for compacting the woven fabric, and scissors for cutting
yarn.

Design Materials: If the weaver plans to create intricate patterns,


they may use graph paper or other design aids to plan out the
pattern before weaving.

These raw materials are essential for creating Binakol woven fabrics,
and their quality and preparation greatly influence the final outcome
of the weaving process. Traditional weavers often have deep
knowledge of sourcing and preparing these materials to achieve the
desired results in their craft.

WHERE IS THE LOCATION?

La Paz, Abra
Nelia Ardaniel's Loomweaving is a manufacturing company registered
with the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) owned and
managed by Ms. Nelia Ardaniel. It is one of the micro-enterprises
located in Bulbulala, La Paz, Abra with workers whose skills were
passed on from one generation to another.

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