Gunsmithing Tools Lab

© 2021 Sonoran Desert Institute. All rights reserved. The material in this publication cannot be reproduced or redistributed unless you
have obtained prior written permission from Trade Training Company, LLC, dba Sonoran Desert Institute.

Sonoran Desert Institute does not assume any responsibility for the use or misuse of information contained in this book.

ISBN: 978-1-945697-31-9
Content written by Frank Vigil

Course materials and other works have been prepared by or on behalf of SDI for general informational and educational
purposes only. SDI makes no representations or warranties as to the completeness or accuracy of the information. In
no event will SDI be liable for any errors or omissions in the information contained in this work. SDI reserves the right to
change, delete, or otherwise modify the work without any prior notice. SDI does not assume any responsibility for the use
or misuse of information contained in this work.

Rev. 6.21
 Gunsmithing Tools Lab
INTRODUCTION 5
SAFETY AND PREPARATION 7
BASIC HAND TOOLS 11
Hammers and Mallets 11
Punches 13
Screwdrivers 16
Wrenches 17
Pliers 20
Other Hand Tools 22
Research and Planning 24
CUTTING TOOLS AND ABRASIVES 27
FIELD STRIPPING AND REASSEMBLY 31
POWER TOOLS 45
HOLDING/CLAMPING TOOLS 49
MEASURING TOOLS 51
DETAIL STRIPPING, REVIEW, REASSEMBLY 55
Break-Action Firearms 58
Rolling Block, Falling Block, and Lever-Action Firearms 59
Bolt-Action Firearms 61
Pump-Action Firearms 63
Revolvers 63
Semi-Automatic Pistols 65
Semi-Automatic Rifles 66
Semi-Automatic Shotguns 67
Review and Reassembly 68
 Introduction
Firearms, like any industry, require knowledge,
experience and the right tools to properly ser-
vice, repair, disassemble and completely reas-
semble, assuring everything is in optimal con-
dition when complete. Much of the knowledge
and experience come from reading articles or
blogs, watching videos, and actual “hands-on”
practice. Because there is a huge array of dif-
ferent firearms, actions, and models, it would
almost be impossible to fully understand ev-
ery nuance or procedure. Basic knowledge of
the methodologies involved in the disassembly
and assembly and the tools needed to complete
these tasks will prepare you to work on any plat-
form, regardless of experience. To teach these
methodologies, this course will cover the topics

5
of safety, preparation, planning, field stripping,
detail stripping, and assembly. We have pur-
posefully blended these techniques, along with
the knowledge of tools used by gunsmiths, to
provide a complete view of firearms repair.

6
 Preparation for disassembly is threefold: prep-
Safety and aration of the firearm, preparation of your
workspace and tools, and mental preparation.
Preparation Preparation of the firearm is the same, regard-
less of type or model. Preparation of your work-
space and tools comes from experience. Mental
Working with firearms is not as dangerous as preparation is different for everyone, but is
some would assume, but there are inherent dan- probably more important than the preparation
gers that can be nullified with a few basic safety of your tools and workspace.
rules. These rules will ensure your safety and the Before ever touching a firearm or tool, you need
safety of everyone around you at all times. The to prepare yourself mentally. You must put your-
rules are: self in the correct mindset so that your focus is
› Treat every firearm as if it were loaded. on safety first. Even though you will not be on
a range or shooting, you will still be handling a
› Never point a firearm at anything you
firearm and possibly ammunition. You will be
do not intend to destroy.
working with small parts, loaded springs, and you
› Know how to safely operate your will be exposed to lead and other chemicals. Your
firearm and how all of its safeties work. mental preparation should be tailored so that you
› Use appropriate eye and ear protection. can remove yourself from outside distractions
› Always keep firearms unloaded until and place all your focus on the task at hand.
ready to use. Once you feel like you are mentally prepared,
› Live ammunition is not allowed in the you can begin to prepare the firearm. The first
work area. step in preparing any firearm for work is to
clear it. Clearing a firearm involves removing
› Never use live ammunition to function its feed source and ammunition and making
check firearms; use snap caps only.

7
sure the chamber is clear. Clearing a firearm 3. Unlock and open the action to manu-
is always done in the same sequence; failing to ally extract and eject any cartridges left
complete the sequence in order can lead to a in the chamber. If the firearm utilizes a
very dangerous situation. The steps to clearing fixed magazine, you may have to manually
any firearm are: cycle the action several times before all the
1. Set the firearm’s selector/safety to the Safe cartridges are removed from the action.
position. Some designs will not allow you Once the action is clear, manually cycle
to set the safety as it will interfere with the action several more times to verify. For
clearing the action (i.e. 1911). revolvers, use the ejector rod to empty the
chambers in the cylinder.
2. With repeating and semi-automatic fire-
arms, remove the feed source. This means 4. Lock the action open (if possible) and
any box, drum, or detachable tubular maga- physically and visually check the chamber.
zine. For revolvers, unlock the cylinder or Use your finger to feel inside the chamber
open the loading gate. For firearms that and look to verify it is clear. If the firearm
utilize a fixed internal or tubular magazine, utilizes a fixed magazine, verify the maga-
unlock and open the action. zine is empty and you can see and feel the
magazine’s follower.

Figure 1a: Clearing a firearm Step 1- Setting the safety.

8
Figure 1b: Clearing a firearm Step 2- Removing the feed source.

Figure 1c: Clearing a firearm Step 3- Extracting and ejecting.

9
 Figure 1d: Clearing a firearm Step 4- Action locked open.

The firearm is now clear and safe to handle.

Remove any live ammunition from the work-
space and the room to prevent any accidental
loading. If there is ammunition left in any feed-
ing devices, remove it as well. If you need to
function test the firearm at any point, use snap
caps or “dummy rounds” to assure you are doing
it in the safest way possible.
Later we will discuss the preparation of your
workspace. Before setting up your workspace,
make sure you have a solid grasp of the tools
and procedures necessary to properly and safely
disassemble and reassemble the firearm. Proper
research and planning will assist you in the set-
up of your tools and workspace.

10
 the material. Hammers are composed of metal

Basic Hand Tools and are typically used on metal, while mallets
are made of plastic or wood and are used on
non-metals.
Most firearms only require a minimal amount There are a few types of hammers that are used
of hand tools to completely disassemble and re- when working with firearms. They range in
assemble. Knowing which tools are appropriate type, weight, material, and purpose. The basic
and correct for each part of the job and how types of gunsmithing hammers are:
to properly use each tool will prevent uninten- • Ball-peen – The ball-peen or “machin-
tional damage to the firearm or its parts. Over ist’s hammer” is a type of hammer that
time, your tool collection will grow with your utilizes two integral faces on its head.
experience and skill with these tools. Having One face of the head is flat while the
the right tool for the job will often be the dif- other is a hemisphere. The flat face is
ference between success and failure. used to drive other tools, such as punches
and chisels. The half-round face is used
HAMMERS AND MALLETS when more precision is needed or the
Hammers are one of the oldest tools and are work area is smaller. The half-round face
one of the most utilized tools in the workshop. is also used for a technique known as
Hammers are available in many shapes and siz- peening. Peening involves striking the
es, in several different types of materials, for a surface of a metal part to create a small
variety of purposes. Hammers can be used as dimple and harden the area. The peening
a standalone tool, or to drive other tools. The process has been somewhat replaced with
difference between a hammer and a mallet is “shot” peening.

Figure 2: Basic hand tools.

11
• The ball-peen hammer is found primar- • Brass – The brass hammer is a type of
ily manufactured from some alloy of hammer that utilizes a solid brass head.
hardened steel. The head is securely fixed The head may have two faces like the
to a wood (often hickory) or composite ball-peen but is constructed from solid
handle. Weight can range from 1 oz. to brass. The brass hammer is used in the
1 lb., with the most popular sizes being same way as the ball-peen, but for small-
2 oz., 4 oz., 8 oz., and 16 oz. You may er projects. Because the brass hammer is
find it useful to own several different often lighter and softer than a steel ball-
sizes of hammer for various types of pro- peen, it will not deliver as much energy.
cesses. There are variants of the ball-peen Also, it will not scratch the surface of the
known as straight-peen and cross-peen workpiece like a steel hammer will. The
hammers, which feature chisel-type faces brass head is attached to a wood (often
opposite of the flat face. These types of hickory) or composite handle. The brass
hammers are not typically seen in a gun- hammer can be found in sizes from 1 oz.
smithing shop. The ball-peen is typically to 1 lb., with the most popular sizes be-
the workhorse of all the different ham- ing 4 oz. and 8 oz. The brass hammer is
mers, capable of handling any project, usually reserved for smaller jobs, driving
large or small. smaller pins that require less force.

Figure 3: Two types of

ball-peen hammers.

Figure 4: Brass hammer.

12
 Figure 5: Several hybrid or tipped hammers. Figure 6: A rawhide mallet.

• Hybrid/Tipped – The hybrid or tipped PUNCHES

hammer is a type of hammer that utilizes
multiple or replaceable heads of various Punches are used to drive various types of pins
materials. The head will have two faces, that are found on firearms. Punches are typically
one of which may be metal and the other made of metal and feature a rod-shaped body.
Delrin®, polymer, or rubber. Using faces The head of the punch will differ depending
with dissimilar materials makes the ham- on its type. Depending on the pin, a hammer
mer more suitable for multiple projects. may be used to drive the punch into the pin.
Typically, the head is made of brass or There are several different types of punches for
steel, with single or multiple faces that the various pins you will encounter. The various
are either pinned or screwed into the types of punches are:
head. The softer polymer and rubber fac- • Starter – A starter punch, as its name
es allow you to apply force to the work- implies, is a type of punch that is used
piece without fear of deforming or mar- to “start” moving or drifting a pin that
ring the workpiece. The metal head is is already set in a hole. A starter punch,
securely attached to a wood or composite like many other punches, features a body
handle. Hybrid or tipped hammers can that is a larger diameter than the tip and
be found in sizes from 1 oz. to 8 oz., with shank. The shank tapers from the tip to
the most popular size being around 6 oz. the body and the whole punch is very
The hybrid or tipped hammer is capable stout. Starter punches come in various
of various sized projects. sizes for both solid and roll pins. When
used, the starter punch will only drive
• Rawhide Mallets – The rawhide mallet is the pin a short distance before the punch
a type of mallet that features a head made bottoms out against the mouth of the
of roller leather and epoxy. The softer pin hole. The tapered shank provides
head material is best suited for apply- the punch with enough strength to re-
ing force to wood and metal parts where sist bending and flexing when driving
finish is concerned. The leather head is frozen, stubborn, or pressed pins. Starter
securely attached to a wood or composite punches can be found in both brass and
handle and can range from 6 oz. to 16 oz. hardened steel.

13
 through the pinhole of the workpiece
and drive the pin completely out. The pin
punch can also be used to drive pins back
into the workpiece. Pin punches should
only be used with solid pins because they
can damage roll pins. Pin punches can be
found in various materials including steel,
brass, aluminum, and nylon. Brass, alu-
minum, and nylon punches can be used
Figure 7: A selection of starter punches. to drive components other than pins, like
dovetail sights.

• Roll Pin – Roll pin punches, as their

name implies, are punches that are used
• Pin – A pin punch is a type of punch to drive roll pins. The difference be-
that is used to drive pins completely tween a pin punch and a roll pin punch
through the workpiece. A pin punch fea- is the design of the tip. While a pin
tures a body that is a larger diameter than punch features a flat face on its tip, the
the tip and shank. The tip and shank of roll pin punch features a small domed
the pin punch are the same diameter and protrusion in the center of its tip. This
the shank is straight from the tip to just small, domed point is meant to prevent
ahead of the body. There is either a slight the roll pin from deforming by support-
taper from the shank to the body or a ing the open center of the pin. The roll
sharp shoulder. When used correctly, the pin punch is used in the same way as the
shank of the pin punch should match the pin punch, but specifically for roll pins.
diameter of the pin or be slightly smaller. Roll pin punches are found primarily
The shank of the pin punch will move made of steel.

Figure 8: A selection of pin punches.

14
 Figure 9: A selection of roll pin punches.

• Center – A center punch is a type of drill bit from “walking” or drifting when
punch that is used to make an indenta- contacting materials like metal. The in-
tion in the workpiece in preparation dentation will guide the tip of the bit so
for drilling. The difference between the that the hole is drilled in the precise lo-
center punch and other types of punches cation. The center punch is made of steel
is in the way it is used. The tip of the with a hardened tip.
punch comes to a sharp point, while the
shank tapers into the body. The shape • Drift – The drift punch or drift pin is a
point of the center punch will create a type of punch that is used to align pin-
precise indentation in the workpiece holes. Like the center punch, the drift
when struck with a hammer. The inden- punch is not used in the same way as
tation is meant to prevent the tip of the other punches. The tip of the drift punch

Figure 10: A selection of center punches. Figure 11: A selection of drift punches.

15
Figure 12 (top): Various flat head and Phillips-head
screwdrivers.
Figure 13: Fitment of the screwdriver to the screw.

is flat and features a long shank that flat or blade-shaped. The flat head screwdriver
tapers into the body. The long, tapered is designed to work with slotted screws. The
shank is used to align the pinholes of two Phillips-head or cross recess screwdriver fea-
different parts so they can be pinned or tures a tip that is cross-shaped and that tapers
screwed together. The two parts must be to a point. The Phillips-head screwdriver is de-
partially aligned before the drift punch signed to work with Phillips-head screws.
is inserted and tapped until the holes Regardless of the screw type, when correctly
are perfectly aligned. The drift punch is used, the tip of the screwdriver should fit pre-
typically made of steel but can also be cisely in the screw head. With slotted screws,
found in brass. the tip of the flat head screwdriver should fit the
slot in both length and width. The tip should
SCREWDRIVERS also match the taper in the slot, if present. The
same applies to the Phillips-head screwdrivers
Screwdrivers are used to remove and install and screws as well. Any slop in the fitment of
screws that are used in firearms. The basic the screwdriver to the screw can result in dam-
screwdriver design features a handle, shank, and age to the screw head. Using the correct tip will
tip. There are two basic types of screwdriver ensure that you can properly remove or install a
designs based on the tip. The two basic types screw without damaging the screw, workpiece,
of screwdrivers are flat head and Phillips-head. or finish.
The flat head screwdriver features a tip that is

16
 Figure 14: Screwdriver bit sets.

While the basic screwdriver design (handle, different size on each end of the wrench.
shank, and tip) is available in many different The difference between open-ended and
sizes, there are screwdriver bit sets available that box wrenches lies in their name: open-
offer a far greater range of types and sizes. A ended wrenches feature a set of open
bit set consists of a single handle with a shaft jaws shaped like one side of a hexagon;
that features a hollow tip. Various types and box wrenches feature a head that is loop-
sizes of bits will lock into the shaft via magnet shaped with “teeth” along its inner diam-
or detent. Collecting various bit sets will ensure eter. There are also combination wrench-
you always have the proper size for the screw at es with a box head on one side and an
hand. Some handles may also include a ratchet- open one on the other. Wrenches come in
ing feature that enhances its usability. an array of sizes and are made of steel.

WRENCHES
Wrenches are used to remove and install nuts
and bolts that may be found on firearms. There
are many different types of wrenches to work
with the various types of nuts and bolts that you
may find. The various types of wrenches include:
• Open-Ended/Box Wrench – Open-
ended and box wrenches are used to
remove and install hexagon or “hex”
head bolts and hex nuts. These types
of wrenches are typically double-sided,
Figure 15: Various open-ended and box wrenches.
meaning there is a wrench head of

17
 Figure 16: Various adjustable wrenches.

• Adjustable Wrench – An adjustable utilizes an array of gears, springs, and

wrench, as its name implies, is a type of locks to create the ratcheting motion.
wrench with an adjustable head. Shaped There is a switch on the head of the
similar to an open-ended wrench, the wrench that allows the gears to reverse
adjustable wrench features a bottom jam their motion so that the wrench can
that moves via an adjustment screw lo- be used to remove and install nuts and
cated on the head of the wrench. Turning bolts. On the head of the wrench is a
the screw will move the jaw up and down square “drive” used to attach the various
and adjust the wrench to the size of the sockets. Wrenches come in various sizes
bolt at hand. The adjustable wrench of- with standardized square drivers in ¼
fers the user a greater range of usability, in.,⅜ in.,and ½ in. The drivers typically
but is also more likely to strip a bolt head feature a spring-loaded detent meant to
than a tradition wrench of the correct hold the socket to the head.
size. Adjustable wrenches can be found
in various sizes and are made of steel. Sockets are typically tube-shaped. One
end features a hollow pocket designed
• Socket Wrench – A socket wrench is for the drive and the other end features a
a type of ratcheting wrench that uses pocket that is shaped for hexagonal bolt
sockets of varying sizes to remove and heads and nuts. Sockets come in a huge
install nuts and bolts. The socket wrench array of sizes in both standard and metric

Figure 17: Various socket wrenches and sockets. Figure 18: A torque wrench.

18
 and can be often found in sets of 30 instruments and are typically used for the
pieces or more. Socket wrenches speed final torque adjustments after a standard
the process of removing and installing wrench has completed most of the work.
many different nuts and bolts without Torque wrenches should not be used to
the need for lots of different wrenches. remove nuts and bolts.

• Torque Wrench – A torque wrench is a • Allen/Torx Wrenches/Keys – The

type of specialty wrench used to measure Allen/Torx wrench or “key” is a type
the amount of force applied to the nut or of wrench used to drive bolts or screws
bolt. The torque wrench looks similar to a (both machine and wood) with a special-
socket wrench but with an added feature ized socket in their head. The difference
that displays the torque being applied. between the Allen and Torx wrench is the
The display can either be analog (like shape of the tip. The Allen wrench fea-
with a beam torque wrench) or digital tures a hexagonal tip that extends through
(like with an electronic torque wrench) the whole body, while the Torx utilizes
and some may not even feature a display a six-sided star head that tapers into a
(like a micrometer torque wrench). The round body. Both the Allen and Torx
micrometer torque wrench utilizes an ad- wrench feature a 90° bend near the head
justable collar used to adjust the amount to provide more leverage when removing
of torque that can be applied. When the and installing bolts and screws. Ball-end
desired torque is reached, the wrench will Allen wrenches feature a ball-shaped tip
make an audible click as it disengages that allows the shank of the wrench to be
from applying torque. There are two held at an angle (to the center axis of the
basic types of torque wrenches in vari- bolt) in hard-to-reach areas. Allen and
ous sizes used to measure torque in both Torx wrenches can be found in an array
inch-pounds (in-lb.) and foot-pounds of sizes in both standard and metric and
(ft-lb.). Torque wrenches are precision are always made of steel.

Figure 19: Various Allen and Torx wrenches.

19
 Figure 20: A strap wrench. Figure 21: Combination pliers.

• Strap Wrench – A strap wrench is a type PLIERS

of wrench used to apply torque upon
parts other than bolts, such as hand- Pliers are hand tools that are used to hold or grab
guards or receivers. The strap wrench is a workpiece. The general design of pliers utilizes
very different than the standard wrench, a set of mirrored levers that are pinned near the
featuring a handle and a long reinforced head to create a pivot point. The area ahead of
rubber strip that loops through the han- the fulcrum forms the jaws while the area behind
dle. One end of the loop is fixed to the the pivot point forms the handles. The length of
handle, while the other end moves freely. the handles creates a mechanical advantage and
The free end loops through the handle allows the user to apply a magnified force on the
and is held in place by a lever. When the workpiece. There are several different types of
lever is manipulated, the strap can be pliers for various tasks. The most common types
adjusted to fit the size of the workpiece. of pliers used in gunsmithing are:
When used correctly, the strap is placed • Combination – Combination pliers are
over the workpiece and tightened. Once the basic type of pliers. Combination pli-
the strap is taught you can begin to ap- ers utilize serrated jaws with both a flat
ply torque to the workpiece. The handle section and a round section used to grab
of the strap wrench is typically metal or both flat and round workpieces. The ser-
plastic and the strap is usually made from rated jaws increase the pliers’ grip and
fiber-reinforced rubber. Strap wrenches prevent them from slipping off of the
come in various sizes for different tasks.

Figure 22: Various slip joint pliers.

20
 Figure 23: Various needle-nose pliers.

workpiece. Although pliers are not de- is meant to grab small workpieces or to
signed to work as a wrench, they can be work in hard-to-reach areas. The jaws
used in a pinch, but they are almost guar- typically feature very fine serrations
anteed to strip or round the bolt head. but may also be smooth and rounded.
Combination pliers can also be found Needle-nose pliers can be found in vari-
with flat and padded jaws to prevent any ous sizes for many different tasks.
marring of the workpiece. Combination
pliers can be found in various sizes and • Channellock® – Channellock or
are made of steel. tongue-and-groove pliers are an adjust-
able type of pliers that can produce more
• Slip Joint – Slip joint pliers are an ad- toque than slip joint pliers. Channellock
justable version of combination pliers. pliers differ from traditional adjustable
One of the levers features an elongated pliers in several ways. Unlike slip joint
slot on its fulcrum so the lever can pliers, whose jaws and handle run paral-
change its position and adjust the width lel, the Channellock utilizes jaws that
of the pliers’ jaws. Adjustable jaws al- are set at an angle (typically 45º) to the
low the slip joint pliers to work with an handle. This allows the width of the
additional number of different sizes of jaws to increase without increasing the
workpieces than traditional combination
pliers. One downside of the design is the
fact that the handles are spaced farther
apart when the jaws are widened, mak-
ing one-hand manipulation difficult. Slip
joint pliers are found in a variety of dif-
ferent sizes for various tasks.

• Needle-Nose – Needle-nose pliers are

a type of pliers that utilize long, pointy
Figure 24: Channellock pliers.
jaws. The small profile of the jaw’s tip

21
 Figure 25: Various vise grip pliers.

size of the handles. The second differ- the handles unlocks the jaws and allows
ence is the amount of adjustment and the handles to open. Vise grips can be
method. While slip joint pliers may only found in a variety of sizes and shapes for
have one or two points of adjustment, many different tasks.
Channellocks will feature many more.
One lever of the pliers features a protru- OTHER HAND TOOLS
sion (tongue) that corresponds to several
grooves on the other handle. When the Besides the basic hand tools that are general to
jaws are opened, they move along a slip most professions, there are other hand tools that
joint until they are adjusted to the cor- can help with many different gunsmithing proj-
rect size. When the handles are closed, ects. Looking toward other industries for tools
the tongue slips into the groove and may make certain projects easier and may reveal
creates a torque lug to strengthen the better options. These tools include but are not
jaws so more pressure can be applied. limited to:
Channellock pliers can be found in vari-
ous sizes for a variety of tasks.

• Vise Grip – Vise grip pliers are a type of

locking pliers that maintain their hold
after you have let go of the handles. Vise
grips utilize a single lever with a fixed
jaw that is linked to a pivoting jaw and
handle. There is an adjustment screw
that, when manipulated, adjusts the size
of the jaws so they can be used on vari-
ous sized workpieces. After the jaw size
has been adjusted, when the handles are
closed, the jaws will lock in place. To re-
lease the pliers, a release lever on one of Figure 26: Two types of tweezers.

22
 Figure 27: Various types of picks.

• Tweezers – Tweezers are a medical or to bring the jaws together and released to
cosmetic tool used for grabbing and spring back open. Tweezers are used to
pulling small items from tight spaces. grab or hold small parts such as springs
Tweezers consist of two-spring, steel or pins. Tweezers can be found in various
fingers that are fixed together at one end. sizes with different tips for many tasks.
The opposite ends are shaped to a sharp
or rounded point and the jaws are typi- • Picks – Picks are a type of tool used to
cally ground flat. The fingers are pinched poke, prod, and scrape in hard-to-reach
areas. A pick consists of a handle and
a long, smaller diameter tip that comes
to a sharp point. Various picks will have
tips that are bent in different ways to fit
in different tight spaces. Picks will typi-
cally come in sets with straight, bent, and
curved tips as well as double-sided picks
with tips on each end. Dental picks can
also be used.

• Hemostat – A hemostat is a medical

instrument used to close veins and arter-
ies during surgery. A hemostat is similar
to a pair of locking pliers with a needle
nose. Hemostats utilize a pair of ratchet-
ing locks on the handles to keep the jaws
closed. Hemostats are used in the same
way as tweezers, but are capable of be-
ing locked. The jaws of the hemostat are
Figure 28: Hemostat. lined with fine serrations. Hemostats can

23
 Figure 29: Firearm markings.

be found in various sizes with straight or Note specific markings on the firearm itself.
curved jaws for different purposes. Manufacturers will often change a few areas of
a specific model and reintroduce it as a different
RESEARCH AND PLANNING model number. Most of the parts between the
two models will be interchangeable, while some
At this point, the firearm has already been will not. Researching serial numbers may also
cleared and made safe and is ready for disas- reveal some hidden knowledge of that specific
sembly. If you are not completely familiar with model that will assist you during the disassem-
the firearm or its disassembly procedure, now is bly and assembly processes.
the time to research and plan the disassembly/ Research will also help you prepare your tools
reassembly. The internet is an awesome source and workspace. You want all the tools that are
for information and specific disassembly pro- necessary for the build to be near you and orga-
cedures for almost any firearm. There are many nized. Your workspace should be large enough
articles, tutorials, and videos, as well as parts to lay out your tools and all the parts you are
diagrams and drawings. Other sources of infor- disassembling. The workbench or table should
mation include the factory manual and possibly be able to withstand the force of hammering
the factory itself. Research will reveal specific and torqueing that some parts/assemblies may
nuances of the disassembly and reassembly pro- require to remove. Additionally, your workspace
cesses that may have not been apparent before will need to be well lit.
and will also give you a rough idea of a timeline.

24
The organization and cleanliness of the work-
space is also very important. You must realize
when disassembling firearms, it is not a matter
of “if ” but “when” you will lose a small pin or
spring. If your workplace is messy and dirty, the
chances of finding your part are lessened. You
may want to use trays or bins to hold small parts
while you are working. You may also want to
cover the workbench with a piece of soft carpet
or a towel to prevent scratching the finish on
the firearm.
Taking the time to prepare yourself mentally and
prepare the firearm, your tools, and the work-
space will save you time and frustration during
the disassembly and assembly process. It will
also help to move the process along smoothly
and quickly. Over time, the preparation process
will become second nature and you will begin to
see areas of your prep that can be improved or
changed and allow you to perform the processes
more efficiently.

Figure 30: A well-organized workspace.

25
THIS PAGE INTENTIONALLY BLANK

26
 They can be used on wood, plastic, and

Cutting Tools and metal. Files are categorized by their shape

and the type of teeth they feature. The
Abrasives basic shapes include flat, round, half-
round, square, taper, and knife/triangular.
The four basic types of teeth are single-
Working with firearms is more than just gen- cut, double-cut, rasp, and curved-tooth.
eral maintenance, cleaning and disassembly, There are smaller files called needle files
and assembly. At some point, you may have to that are used to create a smooth surface
fit certain parts or refinish them. This is where finish rather than rapid material removal.
you would need certain cutting tools to com- Diamond files use bonded diamond dust
plete your tasks. Cutting tools will vary based on to scratch the workpiece’s surface and
purpose and the material of the workpiece. The remove a small amount of material at a
most common cutting tools are: time. Diamond files are used on hard sur-
faces like hardened steel because regular
• File – A file is a tool used to remove ma-
files are too soft.
terial from a workpiece through a series
of tiny cuts or scratches. The basic file is • Stones – Stones are tools used to scratch
a flat bar that features small “teeth” along and polish the surface of the workpiece.
its surface and a handle that is made from Stones are shaped like files without the
wood or plastic. The teeth may only be teeth. They are typically made from
on one surface or on every facet. When aluminum oxide (Arkansas) or ceramic,
pushed or pulled across the workpiece’s which means the entire surface of the
surface, the teeth will cut into the surface stone is an abrasive. Stones are used to
of the workpiece and lift material away. remove only a minute amount of materi-
Files can be found in various shapes and al to the point of polish. Arkansas stones
constructed from different materials.

Figure 31: Various types of files.

27
 Figure 32: Various types of stones.

tend to be more aggressive because of the the basic saw design consists of a handle
aluminum oxide, while ceramic stones and a blade. The blade is often quite long
are typically used to polish. Stones can be (18+ in.), with many small teeth along its
found in a variety of shapes and sizes for bottom edge. There are two basic saw de-
various projects. signs that are used in (some) gunsmith-
ing: the crosscut saw and the coping saw.
• Saw­– A saw is a tool used to cut mate- The crosscut saw utilizes a long blade
rial with a blade that features many small with a handle on one side and is meant
teeth. There are many different styles of mostly for wood. The crosscut saw is so
saws for many different purposes, but

Figure 33: A crosscut and coping saw.

28
 Figure 34: A variety of chisels.

named because it is used to cut across the • Chisel – A chisel is a hand tool that is
grain of the wood rather than with the primarily used to cut wood. A chisel
grain. The coping saw is much smaller consists of a handle, shank, and a bev-
and utilizes a U-shaped frame that places eled leading edge. Depending on type,
tension on a replaceable blade. The cop- the chisel may be driven by hand or
ing saw can be equipped to cut wood, with a hammer or mallet. The cutting
plastic, and metal. Both saw types are edge of the chisel may vary from flat to
categorized by the blade’s teeth per inch. angled, to pointed, and even to round.
The teeth per inch and blade material Chisels are designed to cut with the
will dictate what type of material can be grain but can also be used to cut against
cut. Lower teeth per inch blades are usu- the grain. Chisels designed to cut deep
ally reserved for rough cuts and soft ma- and remove material rapidly are known
terial, while a high teeth per inch is used as gouges and feature arched leading
for hard material and cleaner cuts. Both edges, which dig into the workpiece.
crosscut and coping saws can be found in Chisels come in a variety of shapes and
various sizes for a variety of materials. sizes for different purposes.

29
THIS PAGE INTENTIONALLY BLANK

30
 simple. Typically, there are no tools required to

Field Stripping and

perform the field strip and if there is, often it is
only a single punch. In a pinch, the tip of a car-

Reassembly
tridge, a key, pen, or even a stick can be used to
perform the field stripping procedure.
While every firearm model uses a different field
The term “field strip” refers to a process of stripping procedure, most firearm types (pistols,
firearm disassembly that can easily be accom- rifles, and shotguns) can be field stripped in the
plished in the field. Field stripping is a partial same basic manner. Regardless of the firearm
breakdown of the firearm’s major components type, the first step in any field stripping pro-
into more manageable subassemblies. A fire- cedure is to make sure it is clear and safe. The
arm is typically field stripped so that it can be basic field stripping procedure for the basic fire-
cleaned and examined. arm types are:
All manufacturers have a very specific field Pistol – The field stripping procedure will differ
stripping procedure for any firearm they pro- between pistols of different types and models.
duce. The field stripping procedure is typically Even similar action types will have a slightly
outlined in great detail in the firearm’s owner’s different field stripping procedure. The differ-
manual, but may also be found online. While ent pistol types are single-shot, revolver (single-
the idea of field stripping a firearm seems fairly and double-action), and semi-automatic.
standard, specific types and models will have a The single-shot pistol typically utilizes the
very specific field stripping procedure. break-style action. With most break-action de-
Because field stripping can be accomplished “in signs, there is a part (either on top or underneath
the field,” manufacturers make this process quite the receiver) called the top lever or takedown

Figure 35: A field stripped firearm.

31
 Figure 36: Tools used to field strip most firearms.

lever/button. The field stripping procedure for

break-action pistols (Figure 37) is as follows:
1. Manipulate the top/takedown lever and
open the action.

2. You may either be able to roll the barrel

forward and detach it from the receiver
or you may have to remove the forend
first. The forend may be attached with
a bolt or spring-loaded release. Remove
the forend and then remove the barrel.

3. The action and barrel are now exposed

and the field strip is complete.

The single- and double-action revolvers both

utilize a revolver-style action. While both ac-
tions are fairly similar, the field strip procedure
is slightly different. The field stripping proce-
dure for a single-action revolver (Figure 38) is
as follows:
1. Set the hammer to the “half-cock”
position and open the loading gate.

Figure 37: Field stripping a single-shot pistol.

32
2. A button under the barrel called the base
pin catch is depressed and the base pin is
removed, releasing the cylinder.

3. Remove the cylinder from the frame.

The action, chambers, and barrel are now
exposed and the field strip is complete.

The field stripping procedure for a double-

action revolver (Figure 39) is as follows:
1. Depress a button called the cylinder re-
lease, found on the left rear of the receiv-
er, and swing the cylinder outward.

2. The action, chambers, and barrel are now

exposed and the field strip is complete.

Figure 39: Field stripping a double-action revolver.

Figure 38: Field stripping a single-action revolver.

33
Semi-automatic pistols use many different ac- The field stripping procedure for fixed barrel,
tions, from blowback, to recoil-operated and semi-automatic pistols is as follows:
even gas-operated. The field stripping procedure 1. Remove the magazine.
for semi-automatic pistols will vary by make and
model but the basic idea is the same: remove the 2. Manipulate the takedown lever/button.
(empty) magazine, remove the slide, remove the
barrel (if possible), and remove the action/recoil 3. Pull the slide to the rear of the pistol and
spring. The procedure will vary with fixed barrel lift upward. There is a cutout in the slide
blowback designs and recoil-operated designs. rail that allows the slide to be lifted off
the frame.

Figure 40: Field stripping a recoil action, semi-automatic.

34
 Figure 41: Field stripping a lever-action rifle.

4. Pull the slide forward until it clears the 3. The slide is pulled forward, carrying the
barrel and lift the slide away. barrel and recoil spring with it.

5. Remove the action/recoil spring from 4. The recoil spring is removed from the
the frame. slide.

6. The action, slide, and barrel are now ex- 5. The barrel is lifted out and removed
posed and the field strip is complete. from the slide.

6. The action, slide, and barrel are now ex-

The field stripping procedure for recoil-operat- posed and the field strip is complete.
ed pistols (Figure 40) is as follows:
1. Remove the magazine. Rifle – The field stripping procedure will dif-
2. Depending on make and model, the fer between rifles of different types and models.
next step may vary slightly. Typically, Even similar action types will have a slightly
the slide must be pulled to the rear a different field stripping procedure. The differ-
short distance. Either the takedown ent rifle types are single-shot, lever-action, bolt-
pin is removed or the takedown lever is action, and semi-automatic.
manipulated. The single-shot rifle typically utilizes the break-
style action. With most break-action designs,

35
there is a part (either on top or underneath the Bolt-action rifles utilize a bolt-style action. The
receiver) called the top lever or takedown lever/ field stripping procedure for any bolt-action
button. The field stripping procedure for break- rifle is fairly straightforward and in many cases,
action rifles is as follows: requires no tools. The field stripping procedure
1. Manipulate the top/takedown lever and for bolt-action rifles (Figure 42) is as follows:
open the action. 1. Manipulate the bolt to unlock the breech
and pull the bolt to the rear.
2. You may either be able to roll the barrel
forward and detach it from the receiver 2. Depress a button found on the receiver,
or you may have to remove the forend called the bolt release, in order to free the
first. The forend may be attached with bolt from the receiver. Some models may
a bolt or spring-loaded release. Remove require you to pull the trigger as you re-
the forend and then remove the barrel. move the bolt.

3. The action and barrel are now exposed 3. The action, bolt, and barrel are now ex-
and the field strip is complete. posed and the field strip is complete.*
*Please note that not every lever-action firearm is designed to
be field stripped so easily. Some rifles require you to completely
The lever-action rifle utilizes a lever-style ac- detail strip in order to access all the parts for cleaning.
tion. The lever-style action’s field stripping
procedure will vary with different makes and
models and can be quite complicated with some
rifles. The field stripping procedure for some
lever-action rifles may require more than just a
few standard punches to complete the process.
The field stripping procedure for lever-action
rifles (Figure 41) is as follows:
1. Manipulate the lever downward to ex-
pose the lever pin or screw.

2. Remove the pin or screw and remove the

lever.

3. Pull the bolt through the rear of the

receiver.

4. If applicable, remove the inner magazine

tube/follower from the outer sleeve.

5. The action, bolt, and barrel are now ex-

posed and the field strip is complete.
Figure 42: Field stripping a bolt-action rifle.

36
 Figure 43: Field stripping a semi-automatic rifle.

Semi-automatic firearms utilize many different some type of receiver cover is removed
action types, from blowback, to recoil-operated or the receiver(s) is separated. Typically,
and even gas operation. Although there are a pin (or pins) holds the two receiver
many different action types and variances, the halves together. When the pin(s) is
field stripping procedure for semi-automatic pushed through the receiver, the two
rifles is fairly standardized. The field stripping halves can be separated.
procedure for semi-automatic rifles (Figure 43)
3. Remove the bolt. Depending on make
is as follows:
and model, you may have to remove the
1. Remove the magazine. charging handle before the bolt can be
removed. With some models that utilize
2. Depending on make and model, one of
a piston, the piston can now be removed.
two things may need to happen. Either

37
4. Remove the action/recoil spring. procedure for break-action shotguns (Figure
44) is as follows:
5. The action, bolt, and barrel are now ex-
posed and the field strip is complete. 1. Manipulate the top/takedown lever and
open the action.

2. You may either be able to roll the barrel

Shotgun – The field stripping procedure will forward and detach it from the receiver
differ between shotguns of different types and or you may have to remove the forend
models. Even similar action types will have a first. The forend may be attached with
slightly different field stripping procedure. The a bolt or spring-loaded release. Remove
different shotgun types are side-by-side/over- the forend and then remove the barrel.
under, pump-action, and semi-automatic.
Side-by-side and over-under shotguns utilize 3. The action and barrel are now exposed
the break-style action. With most break-ac- and the field strip is complete.
tion designs, there is a part (either on top or
underneath the receiver) called the top lever
or takedown lever/button. The field stripping Pump or slide-action shotguns utilize the
pump-style action. The field stripping proce-
dure for pump-action shotguns is fairly stan-
dardized, but often requires a few hand tools.
The field stripping procedure for pump-action
shotguns (Figure 45) is as follows:
1. Pull the slide slightly to the rear to un-
lock the bolt from the barrel.

2. Remove the magazine/forend cap.

3. Pull the barrel forward until its lower lug

clears the magazine tube.

4. Depending on make and model, you

may be able to pull the bolt forward out
of the front of the receiver or you may
have to remove the fire control group
and a few other parts. Typically, the fire
control group is held in the receiver by a
single pin. Remove the pin and pull out
the FCG (fire control group).

5. If the bolt has already been removed,

you can pull the slide forward off the
magazine tube. If the bolt is still in the
receiver, you may have to remove the bolt
carrier and then pull the slide off. Once
the slide is out, you can remove the bolt.

6. The action and barrel are now exposed

and the field strip is complete.
Figure 44: Field stripping a break-action shotgun.

38
 Figure 45: Field stripping a pump-action shotgun.

Semi-automatic shotguns utilize a few different 2. Depending on make and model, one
action types, including recoil-action, inertia- of two things must happen. Either the
action, and gas-operated. Although there are forend is slid forward over the magazine
several different action types and variances, the tube and then the barrel is removed, or
field stripping procedure is fairly standardized the barrel is slid forward over the maga-
and similar to the pump-action shotgun. The zine tube and then the forend is removed.
field stripping procedure for semi-automatic
shotguns (Figure 46) is as follows: 3. Depending on make and model, once
the barrel and forend are off you may be
1. Remove the magazine/forend cap. able to remove the action/recoil spring.

39
 Figure 46: Field stripping a semi-automatic shotgun.

4. Remove the bolt handle by pulling it 6. With some models the field stripping
away from the bolt, out of the ejection procedure is complete; with others you
port. may need to remove the buttstock so
that you can access the action/recoil
5. Depending on make and model, you spring.
may either have to remove the bolt or
the fire control group. The bolt will 7. The action and barrel are now fully
slide out of the front of the receiver. exposed and the field strip is complete.
Like the pump-action, the fire control
group is held in with one or two pins. Now that the firearm has been broken down into
Remove the pins and remove the FCG. its basic assemblies, you can examine the parts
Once the FCG is out, you can remove for any wear or damage. You may need to clean
the bolt. the parts before you can do a full examination.

40
Check the parts for any burrs or gouging and for any damage. If applicable, examine
verify that nothing is broken or cracked. You any locking surfaces for dings or wear.
should also check that all springs are in good
shape and still have enough force. The most • Action – The action consists of many
critical areas to be checked are: parts that make the firearm function,
including the receiver, bolt/breechblock/
• Barrel – The barrel should be checked slide, extractor, ejector, and action spring.
for any cracking or bulging along its Check the bolt/breech face for any
exterior. The bore should be examined cracking or damage and examine the fir-
to make certain the rifling is still crisp ing pin hole to ensure it is not worn or
and there is no rust or pitting present. If eroded. Examine the locking surfaces
possible, examine the chamber and verify on the bolt/breechblock/slide for any
that it is smooth and examine the muzzle damage or excessive wear on the bearing

Figure 47: Areas of the barrel to examine.

41
Figure 48: Areas of the action to examine.

42
 Figure 49: Areas of the fire control group to examine.

surfaces. Examine the tracks inside of the All action springs should be fairly stiff
receiver that the bolt/breechblock move for proper function.
along and check the rails of a pistol slide
and frame. Make sure these parts move • Fire Control Group – Like the action,
together freely, without binding or feel- the fire control group (FCG) has many
ing gritty. Examine the extractor for any parts that control its actions (firing,
chips or damage and verify the spring disconnecting, and resetting). The fire
has enough pressure (you can easily move control group consists of the trigger,
the extractor if the spring is too weak). connector, disconnector, sear, ham-
Examine the ejector for damage and if mer, and firing pin or striker. Examine
spring-powered, verify spring pressure. the engagement surfaces of the sear
and hammer/striker for any damage

43
 or excessive wear. Examine the safety/ • Feeding Device – Any internal or
selector and if possible verify function. external feeding device should be
Manipulate the FCG and verify that the checked for spring pressure. Push against
trigger and connector will disconnect the follower to verify magazine spring
and reset. Manipulate the hammer or pressure. Examine the body or housing
press against the striker and verify their for any damage, dents, or deformation on
springs are stiff enough to create igni- the feed lips.
tion. If applicable, cock the hammer and
press against the back of it to verify sear Once the parts have been cleaned and you have
engagement (the hammer should not verified that everything is in running shape, you
fall). Make certain the FCG parts move can begin the reassembly process. The reassem-
freely and do not bind. bly process is straightforward, basically follow-
ing the steps above, but in reverse. Firearms are
• Furniture – Make certain that all fur- simple machines and in most cases their parts
niture (stocks, grips, and forends) are will only fit together in one way. As long as
properly secured to the firearm. Tighten you pay attention to the steps it took to take
any screws or bolts or replace any broken it apart, you will be able to reassemble it. All
pieces. For wood stocks and furniture, the parts and assemblies will fit together eas-
check the wood for any cracks or frac- ily; you should not have to force anything. Once
tures that can lead to part failure. the firearm has been reassembled, you can use
dummy rounds to perform a function check.

Figure 50: Examine the assemblies for damage and wear.

44
Power Tools
Power tools rely on an outside power source to
drive their motion, unlike hand tools that use
physical force. Power tools can be driven by
electric motors that are plugged in or run on
batteries or pressurized air. These tools make
certain tasks much simpler and quicker to ac-
complish and are an absolute requirement for
other tasks.
Power tools are often quite powerful and can be
extremely dangerous if proper safety procedures Figure 51 : Eye and ear protection.
aren’t followed. If you are unfamiliar with the
safety procedures for a specific machine, take a
minute to read the owner’s manual or research shrapnel (if a part or tool breaks). You may
on the internet. Never operate any power tools also need a face shield, hearing protection, dust
unless you completely understand how they mask, or respirator (with certain materials like
work and how to operate them safely. wood or polymer).
Anytime you are working with heavy machines Your attire may also create a high risk for injury.
and cutting material, you should be wearing Loose or baggy-fitting clothing, long sleeves,
safety glasses. In fact, OSHA (Occupational untucked shirt, gloves, rings, watches, necklaces,
Safety Health Administration) requires em- and other jewelry may become caught in the
ployers to provide workers eye protection when- machine while it is running, potentially lead-
ever necessary. While performing machining on ing to serious injury. Long hair or a beard may
various materials, you run the risk of exposure also lead to injury if it becomes tangled in the
to flying particulate, metal chips, and possibly machine. Make certain there is nothing hanging

Figure 52: Various types of hand drills.

45
from your person that could become trapped in
the machine while it is running.
• Hand Drill – A hand drill is a tool that
is used primarily to cut holes in various
types of material. The basic hand drill is
shaped like a pistol and is activated by
a trigger. Inside the head of the drill is
an electric motor that is either powered
by a cord or by a battery. A three-jaw
chuck attached to the head of the drill
secures the tooling being used. The hand
drill can accept many types of tooling,
from drill bits to grinding wheels and
even wire brushes. While the hand drill
may be very versatile, it’s accuracy and
precision are only as good as the opera-
tor. Any misalignment or movement of
the hand drill is a result of the operator.
The modern hand drill is capable of both
clockwise and counterclockwise opera-
tion and may even feature multiple speed
and torque settings. Hand drills come
in a variety of sizes with different power
levels and features for a variety of tasks.

• Drill Press – A drill press is a tool that

Figure 53: A drill press.
is used to cut holes in various types of
materials, similar to the hand drill but
with greater precision. The drill press process than the hand drill, requiring
consists of a base, column, head, and the base and table to be level and plumb
table. The motor and drive assembly are to the chuck. Typically, the speed of the
located in the head and are used to spin drill can be adjusted by simply changing
the three-jaw chuck. The table features the setting of the pullers or gears in the
holes and provision so the workpiece or head. Drill presses can be found in vari-
various vises can be secured to it. The ous sizes from tabletop to standalone.
reason why the drill press is more precise
than the hand drill is that it removes • Rotary Tool – A rotary tool is a tool
the human factor. With a drill press that is extremely versatile, and with the
the head is (typically) fixed, the table is proper tooling is easily adaptable to vari-
fixed, and the workpiece is held securely ous tasks. The rotary tool consists of a
to the table. This ensures straight, con- covered, elongated motor that directly
centric holes because there is no lateral drives a chuck. Typically, rotary tools are
movement. While the drill press is more powered through a cord, but there are
precise, there is a more extensive setup also battery-powered, cordless models.

46
 Figure 54: A rotary tool with various bits.

The rotary tool is so versatile because

of the huge array of bits and accessories.
There are accessories that can turn the
tool into a small drill press, or into a
precision pen tool for fine detail work.
Bits range from drilling and grinding to
cleaning and polishing. There are bits
available for virtually any material and
almost any purpose. The rotary tool truly
is the workhorse of any modern gun-
smithing shop.

47
THIS PAGE INTENTIONALLY BLANK

48
 of the workpiece. The C-clamp utilizes
Holding/Clamping a C-shaped frame and a long, threaded
adjustment screw with a swiveling or
Tools rotating jaw to hold the workpiece. There
is a fixed jaw on the frame and the screw
is manipulated by a handle opposite of
Holding and clamping tools are used to secure the swivel jaw. While the spring clamps
the workpiece while being worked on. Holding provide enough force for most projects,
and clamping tools are like having an extra set the C-clamps are capable of much
of hands to hold the workpiece securely while higher pressures. Both spring clamps and
you perform the work. Securing the workpiece C-clamps come in a variety of sizes for
while being worked on will ensure the best re- many different applications.
sults because there is little chance of the work-
• Vise – A vise is a tool used to hold a
piece moving. The basic holding and clamping
workpiece very securely while being
tools include:
worked on. There are various types of
• Clamps – Clamps are tools used to pinch vises, but the most common gunsmithing
and hold workpieces together or to a vises are table and machine. Both table
workbench. There are various types of and machine vises come in a variety of
clamps for various tasks, but the most styles, but the most common types of
common are spring and C-clamps. vises utilize sturdy, heavy bases with
Spring clamps are similar to pliers, but one fixed jaw and one adjustable jaw.
much wider and spring-loaded. The jaws The other jaw moves along a screw and
of the spring clamp are often padded and is adjusted via a handle. The base is
may even pivot to adjust to the shape typically secured to a sturdy workbench

Figure 55: Various types of clamps.

49
 Figure 56: Various types of vises.

or to a machine with bolts. Typically,

the jaws of the vise can be removed
and replaced with jaws of a different
material or shape. Some vises feature
multiple points of articulation to allow
the workpiece to be held at the correct or
most comfortable working angle. Vises
are much more sturdy than any clamp
and are typically reserved for use with
heavy machines or when great force must
be applied to the workpiece.

50
Measuring Tools
Measuring tools are used to verify the size of the
workpiece or the dimensions of the work that
is to be performed. Measuring tools are often
more important to accurate and precise work
than any other tool. In fact, measuring tools are
often used to measure the accuracy and preci-
sion of heavy machinery. The various types of
measuring instruments are: Figure 57: Various rulers and measuring tapes.

• Ruler/Measuring Tape – A ruler is a

tool that is used to measure distance.
The basic ruler features a long, flat body barrels. A measuring tape is like a ruler
with graduated lines (both standard and that is much longer. A measuring tape
metric). The typical ruler is either 12 in. consists of a long (6+ ft.), thin, metal
(in 1/16 in. increments) or 30 cm long (in band that is wound inside a housing.
1mm increments) and features a precise When the band is pulled from the hous-
straight-edge that can be used for mark- ing, a wound spring will pull it back in.
ing. Some rulers feature both inch and Rulers and measuring tapes can be found
centimeter markings and can be found in various sizes for a variety of tasks.
made from wood, plastic, and metal. The
measurement standard rulers provide • Calipers – Calipers are tools used for
is too course to offer any real precision precision measurement, much finer than
when fitting small parts, but can be very any ruler or measuring tape. A caliper
handy with large parts like stocks and consists of a body or main scale, two sets

Figure 58: Various calipers.

51
 of jaws, and a depth rod. The typical micrometer consists of a frame, sleeve,
caliper is capable of measuring in hun- thimble, and spindle. One end of the
dredths (.01), thousandths (.001), and C-shaped frame features an anvil, which
ten thousandths (.0001) of an inch or the spindle references (zeroes) against.
in millimeter decimals. There are vari- When the thimble is rotated over the
ous types of calipers that all display the sleeve, the spindle will move in and out.
measurements in different ways. The dif- Marks on the sleeve and thimble will dis-
ferent display types are analog, dial, and play the measurement reading. The typi-
digital. The analog or Vernier scale con- cal micrometer is capable of measuring in
sists of graduated lines in both standard hundredths (.01), thousandths (.001), and
and metric scales. The dial caliper uti- ten thousandths (.0001) of an inch or in
lizes a dial indicator to display the mea- millimeter decimals. There are individual
surement reading, while a digital caliper micrometers that are used to measure
relies on an LCD screen. A thumb screw inside, outside, and depth, unlike the cali-
is used to manipulate the jaws and the per, which can measure all three with one
depth rod. The upper jaws are used to tool. Micrometers can be found in both
measure the inside of a part’s dimensions, analog and digital and are available in a
while the lower jaws are used to measure variety of sizes for various tasks.
the outside of a part’s dimensions. The
depth rod is used to measure the depth • Dial Indicator – The dial indicator is a
of channels, holes, or voids. There is a gauge that is used to measure “travel” or
variety of different types of calipers for play in machines like mills and lathes
many different purposes. and also in the parts they make. The dial
indicator has a movable contact arm.
• Micrometers – Micrometers or screw When the arm is moved, the needle ro-
gauges are tools (similar to calipers) that tates on the dial face to show movements
are used for precision measurements. A in thousandths to ten thousandths of an

Figure 59: A micrometer.

Figure 60: A dial indicator.

52
 inch (.001 – .0001 in.). The bezel around level consists of a sealed, clear glass or
the outside of the dial can be adjusted plastic tube that is filled (almost full)
to set a “zero” or a starting point when with alcohol to create a bubble. The
the contact arm is preloaded. This will tube will feature hash marks to show
allow you to measure both high and low level. The vial can be used standalone or
spots. Typically, the dial indicator must inside of a housing that will allow it to
be mounted and secured to give a precise verify level over a greater area. The level
reading. A magnetic base with articulat- can be found in both analog and digital
ing arms is the most common mount for versions. The advantage of the digital
the indicator. This base provides great level is its ability to display the degree
versatility. A typical dial indicator and measurements in increments as small as
base are shown in Figure 60. Modern 1/10°. While a standard bubble level can
indicators replace the dial with an LCD measure along one plane (X), a bullseye
screen and is digital. The main advantage level can measure along two (X and Y).
of the digital indicator is that you can Levels can be found in various sizes for
instantly switch between inches, fractions different purposes.
of an inch, and metric measurements.
Both dial and digital indicators are used Like with anything in life, high-quality tools
frequently in gunsmithing shops. The will come at a premium. Tools made from su-
dial indicator is used for setting up and perior materials and more precise processes will
squaring drill presses, mills, and lathes, cost more than tools that are cast from inferi-
squaring and truing the workpiece, and or materials. Whenever possible, purchase the
measuring the concentricity of parts on highest quality tools you can afford because they
the lathe. Dial indicators can be found in will save you more money in the end. Cheap
various types for a variety of purposes. tools will break, and having to purchase them
twice will often cost as much as the high-quality
• Levels – A level is a tool used to mea- alternative. Name brand tools will often come
sure the horizontal and vertical angles of with a no-questions-asked warranty and life-
a workpiece. The basic bubble or spirit time replacement.

Figure 61: Various levels.

53
THIS PAGE INTENTIONALLY BLANK

54
 Although there are many different firearm types,
Detail Stripping, makes, and models, the detail stripping process
always begins at the same place: the field strip.
Review, Reassembly The field stripping procedure for most firearms
has been outlined earlier and can typically be
found online, either in an article or in a video.
Earlier you learned how to field strip a firearm The most important thing to consider when
and reassemble it. While field stripping is de- working with firearms is safety. Before begin-
signed to be done in the field and only requires ning, make certain the firearm is clear and there
minor tools, detail stripping is the complete op- is no ammunition present in the workplace.
posite. Detailed stripping (for most firearms) Before beginning, make certain you have every-
should be done in a controlled environment, thing that you need to successfully complete the
like a workshop that is well-lit. Detail stripping detail strip. Research, planning, and preparation
should never be attempted in the field. There is have all been outlined earlier and should have
a great likelihood that you will not have the tools prepared you for this moment. You may also
to complete the job or you will lose small parts. need a few items that were not outlined earlier.
Detail stripping involves breaking a firearm These items include:
down into its most basic parts. This includes • Magnetic Parts Tray – A magnetic parts
breaking down every subassembly into its indi- tray is used to hold small parts that are
vidual parts, pins, and springs. Detail stripping is magnetic. The tray features a powerful
performed for many reasons, including thorough magnet on its base that is meant to
cleaning, repair, customization, and refinishing. secure small parts to prevent loss.

Figure 62: A firearm that has been completely detail-stripped in preparation for cleaning.

55
 Figure 63: Various other items needed to detail strip any firearm.

• Sandwich Bags – Small, sealable light will allow you to see inside of areas
sandwich bags are used to hold small where shop lights do not reach, like the
parts that may not be magnetic. bore and chamber.
Sandwich bags can also be used to
separate the small parts of different • Camera or Camera Phone­ – A camera or
assemblies to prevent accidentally mixing camera phone will allow you to take pic-
parts. Bags can easily be marked with a tures of assemblies and how the individual
permanent marker. parts are arranged. Taking pictures of un-
familiar assemblies will guarantee proper
• Shop Rags – Rags are used to wipe or reassembly. Pictures can also be used to
clean parts so they can be examined. show a customer any concerning areas or
Shop rags can also be used to protect the damage that you may find. Pictures may
finish on parts that are held in a vise or also provide a bit of insurance for yourself
by clamps. if there are scratches on the finish and the
owner tries to blame you.
• Various Brushes – Brushes are used to
clean tough or caked-on debris that rags • Notepad – A notepad can be handy for
could not. Brushes can be found with any notes you may need to take to help
many different bristle types, including you with the reassembly process. You
nylon, brass, and stainless steel. The vari- can use the notepad to keep track of
ous bristle materials will allow you to steps or to work out calculations when
clean various surfaces without damaging fitting parts.
the finish of the part.
• Specialty Tools – Some firearms may re-
• Small Light – A small flashlight is used quire specialty tools that are proprietary
to see in hard-to-reach areas. A small to each specific firearm. As we discuss

56
 Figure 64: Preparing to detail strip a firearm.

the nuances of each firearm type, we will When disassembling subassemblies, there are
discuss the need for specialty tools. certain orders of operation and assembly tech-
niques to keep in mind. Pins, nuts, bolts, and
At this point you should have everything you springs can all introduce a certain level of dif-
need to completely detail strip any firearm. You ficulty to any disassembly/assembly process.
should be mentally prepared, have a plan, and Pins are generally removed from left to right
your tools and workspace should be organized. and installed from right to left. This includes
Begin by field stripping the firearm. Organize solid, roll, and taper pins. If you find a pin is
all of the parts and subassemblies in preparation giving you trouble, do not continue to pound
for detail stripping. on it; you may simply need to change direction.
Now that you have broken the firearm down into The same applies to nuts and bolts. Most nuts
subassemblies, you can begin to break down each and bolts feature a right-hand thread, meaning
assembly into its individual parts. This is where they will thread onto/into the workpiece clock-
things get a bit harder. While field stripping is wise and off counterclockwise. There are some
fairly easy and straightforward, detail stripping European or Asian models of firearms that uti-
requires a lot more critical thinking. You can lize left-hand threads, meaning they will thread
start punching out pins and removing screws, onto/into the workpiece counterclockwise and
nuts, and bolts until everything falls into a pile off clockwise. Also, pay close attention to any
of parts on your workbench, but you will never springs that you remove from the assemblies.
gain an understanding of the parts and how their They may be directional and only work prop-
relationship with each other affects function. erly one way.

57
 Figure 65: Pushing pins from left to right.

Specific firearm types will have certain nuances Typically, the toughest parts to disassemble and
that make the disassembly and reassembly pro- assemble are the hammer, strut/plunger, and
cess a bit more challenging. A general overview hammer/mainspring. The hammers are under
of the differences is covered in the following substantial spring force and are sometimes very
sections. You may need to do further research difficult to install. To access the FCG you may
and planning for variations of specific models. need to remove the buttstock or you may have
Please note that the following is not a step-by- to remove the sideplate. Both are typically se-
step guide; it is a reference for the most difficult cured with machine screws.
aspects of each firearm type. You will need to
figure out the correct sequence of steps to prop-
erly disassemble the firearm.

BREAK-ACTION FIREARMS
Although the break-action design is fairly
simple, much of the difficulty when disassem-
bling break-action firearms comes from the
FCG. The reason for this is because much of
the FCG is housed in such a compact receiver.
This means that the parts inside of the receiv-
er are often very compact and packed in very
tightly, especially with side-by-side and over-
under shotguns. Figure 66: Over-under fire control group.

58
 Once the hammers have been removed, much
of the rest of the FCG can be removed with
little fuss. Other parts that can be difficult to
remove include the top lever, hammer cocking
cam/lever, and extractor/ejector. All of these
parts are under heavy spring pressure as well,
making removal and installation slightly diffi-
cult. To make things easier, the receiver should
be securely held in the vise. Be careful not to
tighten the vise too much because you may
crush the receiver.
The rest of the subassemblies are straightfor-
ward. The remainder of the FCG, action, and
furniture can all be disassembled with ease.
Many of the parts are all held together with
machine screws and solid pins. Typically, even
the sights are threaded and can be removed with
little effort.

ROLLING BLOCK, FALLING

BLOCK, AND LEVER-ACTION
FIREARMS
The rolling block, falling block, and lever-
actions all function in a similar matter, which
makes disassembly and assembly similar. The
biggest difference between the three is that the
Figure 67: Removing the hammer spring. lever-action utilizes a feeding device. The most
difficult disassembly procedure for any of these
actions is the removal of the barrel. In most cas-
Sometimes, manufacturers will machine a small es, removal of the barrel is not absolutely neces-
hole near the back of the hammer strut/plunger. sary; but if it must be removed, it can be quite
When the hammers are in the cocked position, difficult without the proper specialty tools.
the springs are fully compressed and the hole in Typically, barrels are attached to the receiver by a
the strut/plunger are exposed. Placing a small threaded tenon. The barrel is torqued anywhere
pin or paper clip in the hole and slowly releasing between 80 ft-lb. and 120 ft-lb. The barrel may
the hammer will trap the spring and relieve the also be pinned to prevent it from rotating lose. If
force on the hammer. Now the hammer pin or the barrel is threaded, you will need a specialty
screw can be removed and the hammer(s) can wrench and vise jaws. A universal action wrench
easily be removed. If the hammer strut/plunger (Figure 68) can be found at Brownells, along
does not feature this takedown hole, you will with model-specific wrenches and barrel vises.
need a specialty U-notched screwdriver to com-
press and remove the hammer spring.

59
 To remove a threaded barrel from a falling
block/rolling block/lever-action rifle, the rifle
must be fully stripped. If the barrel is pinned,
remove the pin. If the barrel and receiver do
not feature index marks, use a paint marker
or sharpie to mark the position of the barrel.
You can also make a small mark with a scribe
if the finish is not a concern. Secure the bar-
rel in a barrel vise or vise jaws. Attach the ac-
tion wrench to the receiver and make sure it is
secure. Apply force to the action wrench until
the receiver begins to turn. Typically, the barrel
Figure 68: A universal action wrench available from
features right-hand threads, which means the
Brownells.

Figure 69: A 20-ton shop press.

60
 Figure 70: Remove the magazine tube.

receiver must turn counterclockwise (from be- free. If the tube is held by a barrel band, loosen
hind the receiver) to be removed. Once the bar- the band and slide it off the barrel and remove
rel breaks free, remove the wrench and unscrew the tube.
the receiver by hand. After the barrel and magazine tube, the hammer
If the barrel is pressed, you may want to leave it assembly is the next challenging assembly. Like
as is. Removing pressed barrels requires a heavy the break-action hammer assembly, the lever-
duty (20-ton) press, a drift bar, and a little inge- action hammer strut may feature a takedown
nuity. You will need to secure the receiver while hole. If the hole is present, insert a pin or paper
the drift pushes the barrel out of the receiver clip into it and relieve the spring pressure on the
from the breech end. Without the proper tools hammer. If the hole is not present, you will need
and setup, you run the risk of damaging the bar- to use a U-notch screwdriver to compress the
rel and receiver and still may not even be able to spring and remove it.
remove the barrel. Do not remove pressed bar- The rest of the subassemblies are straightforward.
rels if not absolutely necessary. The remainder of the FCG, action, and furniture
The magazine tube of the lever-action is the can all be disassembled with ease. Many of the
next challenging assembly. The magazine tube parts are all held together with machine screws
may be secured in several ways. The tube may and solid pins. Typically, the sights are pressed in
be screwed to the receiver or held in place by a dovetails and can be removed with little effort.
dovetail lug or a barrel band. The receiver should
be secured in a vise before the magazine tube is BOLT-ACTION FIREARMS
removed. If the magazine tube is screwed, you
will need to unscrew it, being careful not to The bolt-action is also a fairly simple design,
crush the tube. If the tube is held by a lug, drift but it can have its own difficulties. Like the
the dovetail of the tube to the right until it is lever-action, the most difficult aspect of the
disassembly process is the barrel. Although the

61
barrel removal is not an absolute necessity, at
some point you may have to remove a barrel for
replacement. Typically, most bolt-action rifle
barrels are attached to the receiver by a threaded
tenon and torqued somewhere between 80 ft-lb.
and 120 ft-lb.
To remove a bolt-action rifle barrel, the process
is the same as the lever-action. Mark the posi-
Figure 71: Firing pin removal tool.
tion of the barrel and place the barrel in a barrel
vise. Attach the action wrench to the receiver
and make sure it is secure. Apply force to the
action wrench until the receiver begins to turn. to compress the firing pin/striker spring so
Typically, the barrel features right-hand threads, that it can be removed from the bolt. Once the
which means the receiver must turn counter- spring has been compressed, the retaining cap/
clockwise (from behind the receiver) to be re- pin can be removed and the spring can slowly
moved. Once the barrel breaks free, remove the be released.
wrench and unscrew the receiver by hand.
The rest of the subassemblies are straightfor-
After the barrel, the next challenging assembly ward. The remainder of the FCG, action, and
is the firing pin/striker. The firing pin/striker is furniture can all be disassembled with ease.
under significant spring pressure and can lead Many of the parts are all held together with ma-
to injury if not removed correctly. Brownells chine screws, roll pins, and solid pins. Typically,
sells a bolt-action firing pin removal that can the sights are pressed in dovetails and can be
ease the disassembly procedure. The tool helps removed with little effort.

Figure 72: A Remington 870 fire control group.

62
PUMP-ACTION FIREARMS The rest of the subassemblies are straightfor-
ward. The remainder of the FCG, action, and
With pump-action firearms, much of the detail furniture can all be disassembled with ease.
strip has been completed with the field stripping Many of the parts are all held together with ma-
procedure. The disassembly of most pump-ac- chine screws, roll pins, and solid pins. Typically,
tion shotguns is fairly straightforward, with the the sights are pressed in dovetails and can be
hardest assembly typically being the FCG. The removed with little effort.
Mossberg 500® is notorious for the difficulty in
assembling the FCG; in fact, the manufacturer REVOLVERS
does not recommend taking it apart.
Several of the revolvers’ assemblies can be chal-
If you need to take apart the FCG on a pump-
lenging, both from the process and the tools re-
action shotgun, pay close attention to the ar-
quired. Typically, the most difficult assembly to
rangement of the parts and their springs. While
remove is the barrel. Like rifles, revolvers utilize
the process does not require any specialized
barrels that are either screwed on or pressed in.
tools, it does require some care. Some of the
Where screwed or pressed, both are typically
springs in the FCG are meant to power more
pinned as well.
than one part and tend to feature many bends
and turns and weave between various parts. Like rifles, revolvers also require a specialized
Take pictures or notes of how the springs are frame and barrel wrench to remove the barrel
arranged and how they interact with the FCG. from the receiver. The proper tools can be found
You may need to place the housing inside a vise at Brownells. Before removing the barrel, the
so that you have both hands to manipulate the barrel pin must be removed and the barrel and
parts, pins, and springs. receiver must be marked. To remove the barrel, it
must be secured in the barrel vise and the action
Another part that you may have some trouble
wrench must be attached to the frame. Apply
with is the forend and slide tube. Typically, the
force to the action wrench until the frame begins
forend surrounds the slide tube and is held in
to turn. Typically, the barrel features right-hand
place by a castle nut. A specialty tool is required
threads, which means the receiver must turn
to remove the forend. The tool can be found
counterclockwise (from behind the frame) to be
through Brownells. If you already own the tool,
removed. Once the barrel breaks free, remove
the procedure is straightforward. Remove the
the wrench and unscrew the frame by hand.
castle nut and remove the forend.

Figure 73: A Brownells forend wrench. Figure 74: A Brownells revolver frame and barrel
wrench.

63
 The sideplate of the double-action revolver is
precision-machined to provide a gap-free fit
inside the frame. Often, the fit is so tight the
parts appear to be seamless. Once the sideplate
screws have been removed, the sideplate will
often have to be pried up. The inside edge of
the sideplate may be sharp or burred, which can
cut you if you try to pry it with your finger. Use
a nylon punch under the rear edge of the plate
and slowly pry the plate upward to the front
Figure 75: Removing the ejector rod from the cylinder. of the pistol. There is typically a tab on the
front edge of the plate that fits into a slot in the
frame. Pull the plate up and outward until the
tab clears the frame, and then remove the plate.
Removing the ejector rod from the cylinder of a When installing the plate, you may need to set
double-action revolver can be a bit tricky. First, it by tapping it with a rubber hammer until it
the end of the rod is knurled and can easily be sits flush.
damaged. Second, the rod utilizes left-hand The rest of the assemblies are straightforward.
threads and must be removed clockwise (from The remainder of the FCG, action, and grips
behind the rod). You will need pliers and mask- can all be disassembled with ease. Many of the
ing tape or a small strip of leather. Tape the parts are all held together with machine screws,
knurled portion of the rod or wrap the piece of roll pins, and solid pins. Typically, the sights are
leather around it. Grasp the end of the (covered) pressed in dovetails and can be removed with
rod with the pliers and turn it until it is free. little effort.
Once the rod is free, finish turning it by hand.

Figure 76: Removing the sideplate.

64
 Figure 77: Removing the hammer/sear/trigger housing.

SEMI-AUTOMATIC PISTOLS arranged. You also run the risk of losing small
parts or having a spring fly away.
Most semi-automatic pistols are fairly straight-
Reassembly may require a tool known as a
forward and only require a handful of hand tools
“slave pin” to aid in the process. A slave pin is
to completely disassembly. Often, the most dif-
like a short version of the standard pin required.
ficult disassembly processes are with the FCG,
The slave pin will hold the smaller assemblies
specifically the hammer/sear/trigger housings
together while being inserted into the frame.
in the rear of the frame. These assemblies tend
Once the parts are set, the real pin is driven into
to be tightly packed with many small parts and
the frame and the slave pin is pushed out. Slave
springs. These assemblies often control many
pins can be made from old used pins by cutting
aspects of the pistol’s function, in a package
the length.
smaller than a square inch.
Many of the other assemblies face this same di-
Be careful when removing these assemblies be-
lemma because many of the parts of a pistol are
cause there is a chance that they will fall apart
so small. In fact, as the size of the pistol decreas-
once you lift them from the frame. If you have
es (full-size, compact, sub-compact, micro), so
not taken a picture or taken notes, you may
do the parts. Needle-nose pliers, tweezers, and
find yourself at a loss of how these parts were

Figure 78: Removing the striker spring cups.

65
hemostats can all be lifesavers when working Typically, semi-automatic rifles manufactured
with small pistols and small parts. before the late 1950s will utilize barrels that are
Striker-fired pistols utilize a spring-loaded screwed or pressed. Disassembly procedures for
striker that is typically held together with tiny screwed and pressed barrels mirror the manual
spring cups. The striker spring must be com- action rifle procedures. Screwed barrels require
pressed far enough for the cups to clear the a barrel vise and a specialized action wrench,
shoulder of the striker. The cups are very small and pressed barrels require a 20-ton press and
and easily lost. When installing, both spring a drift tool.
cups must be set at the same time before reliev- Modern semi-automatic rifles typically all use
ing pressure on the striker spring. some type of barrel nut or multiple bolts. Instead
The rest of the assemblies are straightforward. of the barrel being threaded and screwed into
The remainder of the FCG, action, and grips the receiver, or being pressed in, rifles that uti-
can all be disassembled with ease. Many of the lize barrel nuts feature barrels that simply slip
parts are all held together with roll pins and into the receiver. The barrel features a shoulder
solid pins. Typically, the sights are pressed into that will bottom out against a shoulder on the
dovetails and can be removed with little effort. receiver. The barrel nut slides over the barrel and
is torqued to the receiver. To remove a barrel nut,
SEMI-AUTOMATIC RIFLES you will need a specialized tool called a barrel
nut wrench. Because there are a variety of dif-
Semi-automatic rifles present their own unique ferent types of semi-automatic rifles, there are
difficulties when disassembling, but one chal- various types of barrel nut wrenches. Each model
lenge they all share is their sheer number of will typically have its own proprietary wrench.
parts, both large and small. Outside of the vol- Almost all barrel nuts are right-hand threaded,
ume of parts, the most difficult assemblies to which means you must turn them counterclock-
remove are always the barrels. Semi-automatic wise (looking from the muzzle) to remove them.
rifle barrels are secured in several ways, includ- To remove a barrel nut, first you must secure the
ing with a threaded tenon, being pressed and receiver in a vise. Place the barrel nut wrench on
pinned, and with a barrel nut.

Figure 79: Various barrel nut wrenches.

66
 that are typically pressed or pinned and require
precise alignment. Pressed gas blocks require a
press for removal and can be very challenging.
Typically, the gas block must be secured while
the barrel is pushed through it. Gas blocks
that are pinned utilize taper pins that are of-
ten pressed in place. They will either have to be
pressed out or driven out with a large hammer
and punch.
The rest of the assemblies are straightforward.
The remainder of the FCG, action, and furni-
ture can all be disassembled with ease. Many of
the parts are all held together with roll pins and
solid pins. Even the sights are typically bolted
on and are very simple to remove.
Figure 80: Removing a gas block.
SEMI-AUTOMATIC SHOTGUNS
Semi-automatic shotgun detail disassembly is
the barrel nut and make sure it is properly aligned fairly straightforward, with the exception of
and secure. Apply force to the wrench until the the FCG. Like the pump-action shotgun, the
nut begins to turn. Once the nut breaks free, re- semi-automatic shotgun’s FCG is fairly com-
move the wrench and unscrew the nut by hand. plicated. The FCG often contains many small
If the barrel is secured with multiple bolts (like parts and springs.
the FN USA SCAR), removal is much sim- If you need to take the FCG on a semi-auto-
pler. Often, all that is required is a set of Allen matic shotgun apart, pay close attention to the
wrenches. Simply remove all the bolts holding arrangement of the parts and their springs.
the barrel to the receiver and remove the barrel. While the process does not require any special-
Gas-operated, semi-automatic firearms pres- ized tools, it does require some care. Some of the
ent unique challenges. Both gas impingement springs in the FCG are meant to power more
and piston-operated actions utilize gas blocks

Figure 81: Disassembling a semi-automatic shotgun fire control group.

67
 Figure 82: Removing the magazine tube.

than one part and tend to feature many bends to remove it. The tube is typically right-hand
and turns and weave between various parts. threaded, which means you will need to turn the
Take pictures or notes of how the springs are tube counterclockwise (from the muzzle end).
arranged and how they interact with the FCG. You will have to remove the tube while it is still
You may need to place the housing inside a vise warm; if you allow it to cool, the threadlock
so that you have both hands to manipulate the compound will set and seize the tube.
parts, pins, and springs. The rest of the assemblies are straightforward.
Removing the magazine tube can also be a The remainder of the FCG, action, and grips
fairly challenging task. While other parts that can all be disassembled with ease. Many of the
are threaded on are just torqued or pinned in parts are all held together with roll pins and
place, magazine tubes are typically “glued.” solid pins. Typically, the sights are threaded and
Manufacturers often use threadlocking com- can be removed with little effort.
pound when installing the magazine tube. To
remove the magazine tube, you will have to REVIEW AND REASSEMBLY
heat the tube and the receiver until it breaks
the thread lock’s hold. This typically occurs Now that the firearm has been broken down
around 200° – 400° Fahrenheit. You will need to completely, you can examine the parts for any
turn the tube while it is hot, so you must wear wear or damage. You may need to clean the parts
gloves or cover the tube. It may be easier to se- before you can do a full examination. Check the
cure a strap wrench to the tube before heating parts for any burrs or gouging and verify that
and using the wrench to remove the tube. Be nothing is broken or cracked. You should also
careful not to crush the tube when using tools check that all springs are in good shape and still
have enough force.

68
 able to reassemble it. All the parts and assem-
blies will fit together easily; you should not have
to force anything. Once the firearm has been
reassembled, you can use dummy rounds to per-
form a function check.
One very important aspect of the reassembly
process to consider is the torque value of bar-
rels, barrel nuts, and other parts that are bolted
together. These parts are designed to hold at a
specific torque: too little and they may rotate
loose; too much and you run the risk of break-
ing parts. The barrel nut may also have to be
indexed so that it will clear gas tubes or pistons.
Make sure you know the specific torque value
of a part before disassembling or assembling.
Figure 83: Tightening a barrel nut.
Anytime a threaded or pressed barrel has been
removed and reinstalled, the rifle’s headspace
should be checked.

Once the parts have been cleaned and you have The alignment of the gas block is critical to the
verified that everything is in running shape, you function of gas-operated semi-automatic rifles.
can begin the reassembly process. The reassem- Pressed gas blocks tend to be the most diffi-
bly process is straightforward, basically follow- cult to install and may require you to remove
ing the steps required to detail strip the firearm, and reinstall several times before the alignment
but in reverse. Firearms are simple machines is correct. Gas blocks that are bolted in place
and in most cases, their parts will only fit to- may also require minor adjustments before their
gether in one way. As long as you pay attention alignment is correct. Lightly tightening the
to the steps it took to take it apart, you will be block’s bolts until the block is snug will allow

Figure 84: Aligning a gas block.

69
 Figure 85: Using a drift pin to hold an assembly together.

you to make slight adjustments until it is cor-

rect. Once the alignment is set, tighten the bolts
completely. Pinned gas blocks are typically the
easiest to align. The pinned blocks typically use
taper pins, which force the block into place as
they are driven into place.
Be cautious with stiff springs, especially heavy
hammer and action springs. Always wear eye
protection because there is always the risk of
springs flying at a high rate of speed. Whenever
possible, cover the spring or assembly to mini-
mize loss. Utilize slave pins and drift punches
to help hold spring-loaded assemblies together
while assembling.
To minimize the risk of damaging the firearm’s
finish during assembly, use masking tape to
protect areas that may get scratched or ding-
ed. Cover your workspace with a soft blanket
or towel and keep unused tools away from the
parts. Whenever possible, use nylon or plastic
tools to assemble the parts to avoid accidentally
striking them with metal tools.

70
NOTES
72