Burgos vest © Rosa Pomar

Burgos
by Rosa Pomar

This lightweight vest uses our 100% Portuguese Merino yarn João paired with Silk
Mohair. João is a delicate sport weight single ply yarn that looks and feels like the traditional
hand spun yarn from Alentejo traditionally used for weaving blankets. Because Alentejo is a
hot and dry region and our yarn is as under processed as possible, you will nd ocasional
traces of vegetable matter in the yarn. They can be easily removed from the yarn while you
knit.
The stripes in the original vest were improvised and aren't all exactly the same size. I
used the leftovers of seven different colours of silk mohair I had in my stash combined with
the natural chocolate brown of Black Merino sheep (João 400). All shades of silk mohair work
beautifully with João in natural white so I encourage you to use up the leftovers you may have.
Or make a single color version for a vest that is easier to match to your out ts. BUT if you

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want to make a striped vest just like mine, work approx 16 (17, 17, 18) (18, 18, 19) rows with
each color. On the front of the vest, work 5 (5, 1, 2) (3, 7, 7) extra rows on the rst stripe.
Buttons: I used my favorite horn buttons for the vest. I like to use an extra, smaller,
button on the reverse side. Both buttons are sewn at the same time and to each other. This
protects the knitted band from tearing with use.

Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4) (5, 6, 7).

I am wearing a size 3 in the photo above. I am 1.70m tall with 85cm at the bust.

Shown in size 3 with 15cm | 5.9in of positive ease at the bust

Recommended ease: 0 to 15cm | 0 to 6in of positive ease at the bust. For a perfect t,
consider using the shoulder to shoulder measure as a reference, as well as the chest
circumference.

Finished measurements:

Chest circumference: 89.1 (95.8, 103, 112.7) (121.2, 127.3, 138.2) cm | 35.08 (37.72, 40.55,
44.37) (47.72, 50.12, 54.41) in

Shoulder to shoulder: 36.5 (38.4, 40.8, 43.2) (45.6, 48.1, 50.5) cm | 14.37 (15.12, 16.06,
17.01) (17.95, 18.94, 19.88) in

Length from neckline to back hem (excluding neck ribbing): 43.5 (45, 45.4, 47.7) (49.6, 48.8,
50.4) cm | 17.13 (17.72, 17.87, 18.78) (19.53, 19.21, 19.84) in

MATERIALS

Yarn: 3 (3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5) skeins of João by Rosa Pomar (100% Portuguese Merino wool, 136m
| 149yd, 50g) paired with the equivalent of 3 (3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4) skeins of Silk Mohair by Isager
(75% mohair and 25% silk, 212m | 231yd, 25g). Or approx. 432 (469, 507, 563) (627, 645,
705) m | 472 (12, 554, 616) (686, 705, 771) yd of each yarn respectively.

Shown in João 400 (natural brown) and Isager Silk Mohair in shades 36, 33, 69, 6, 59 and 68.

Needles (suggested sizes): Please swatch and adjust sizes to match gauge: 4mm | US 6
(ribbings) and 5mm | US 8 (body) circular needles.

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, spare cables or waste yarn, 3 buttons (2cm wide)
and three small buttons for securing the main buttons safely in place (optional).

GAUGE

16,5 sts x 26 rows to 10 cm | 4in in stockinette stitch using larger needles.

PATTERN TECHNIQUES

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German short rows (or your preferred short row technique); picking-up stitches along edges;
simple button holes. As you come to the doubled stitches that result from the short rows, make
sure you knit them as one stitch.

Cast-on for gussets and button holes: backwards loop method.

Picking-up sts: See my method for picking-up sts for the right front here.

Increases: four types of increases are used in the pattern: m1r, m1l, m1rp and m1lp. I suggest
using the raised bar increase method for all of them but make sure to work them correctly so
that your m1r look exactly like your m1lp and your m1l look exactly like your m1rp when you
look at the right side of the work).

SUGGESTION: I use locking stitch markers to mark all v-neck increases. This makes them
easy to spot and count and helps me make sure I knit the correct number of rows between
them.

ABBREVIATION LIST AT THE END

DIRECTIONS
This vest is knitted from the top down using the rst steps of Julie Weisenberger’s method:
First, stitches are cast on for the back neck and increases are made to create the upper back
and shoulder lines. Next, stitches are picked up from the sides of the upper back to create the
right and left shoulders and upper part of the front. Stitches are added at the underarms and
the rest of the body is worked in one piece.

Cast-on

Cast-on 29 (32, 32, 34) (34, 36, 38) sts with paired yarns on larger needle using a long tail
cast-on method. Purl one row.

Start working increases:

Work a short row as follows: Knit 3 sts, m1l, k 8 (8, 8, 8) (8, 9, 9) sts, turn work. Gsr, purl to 3
sts before end, m1rp, p to end. 31 (34, 34, 36) (36, 38, 40) sts in total (make sure to count the
double stitch as one).

Next row: K3 sts, m1l, k to 3 sts bef end, m1r, k to end. 33 (36, 36, 38) (38, 40, 42) sts in total.
As you come to the double stitch, make sure you knit it as one stitch.

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Work a short row as follows: Purl 3 sts, m1lp, p 8 (8, 8, 8) (8, 9, 9) sts, turn work. Gsr, knit to
last 3 sts, m1r, k to end. 35 (38, 38, 40) (40, 42, 44) sts in total (make sure to count the double
stitch as one).

Work an increase row: P3 sts, m1lp, p to 3 sts bef end, m1rp, p to end. As you come to the
double stitch, make sure you purl it as one stitch.

Continue increasing 2 sts on every row:

K3 sts, m1l, k to 3 sts bef end, m1r, k to end.

P3 sts, m1lp, p to 3 sts bef end, m1rp, p to end.

Work these two rows 4 (4, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8) more times. 57 (60, 64, 70) (74, 76, 82) sts in total.

Next, work a total of 30 (32, 34, 36) (36, 38, 40) rows in stockinette stitch, ending with a
wrong side row.

Shape the armhole with increases on every other row as follows:

K3 sts, m1l, k to 3 sts bef end, m1r, k to end.

Purl one row.

Work these two rows a total of 7 (8, 8, 8) (9, 10, 10) times. 71 (76, 80, 86) (92, 96, 102) sts in
total.

The upper back is now nished. Break yarns (leaving a tail that is at least 10cm long) and
place all sts on a spare cable or waste yarn.

RIGHT front:

Starting at the neck, pick-up 16 (16, 18, 21) (22, 22, 24) sts along the right shoulder edge
(pick-up on every row) - watch my tutorial on YouTube. The rst row will be a right side row.

Knit one row.

Purl one row.

Work a short row as follows: K 6 (6, 8, 9) (10, 10, 11) sts, turn work. Gsr, purl to end.

Next, work a total of 10 (14, 14, 18) (12, 14, 18) rows in stockinette stitch, ending with a
wrong side row.

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Start v-neck increases as follows:

Knit to 3 sts bef end, m1r, k to end.

Purl one row.
(Knit one row. Purl one row) twice.

Knit these 6 rows a total of 6 (5, 5, 5) (7, 8, 8) times. 22 (21, 23, 26) (29, 30, 32) sts in total.

ONLY SIZES 2, 3, 4 and 5:

Knit to 3 sts bef end, m1r, k to end. - (22, 24, 27) (30, -, -) sts in total.
Purl one row.

Next, ONLY SIZES 2, 3 and 4:

Knit one row.

Purl one row.

ALL SIZES:

You will now continue to increase for the v-neck on every 6th row and AT THE SAME
TIME start shaping the arm hole by increasing on every right side row, as follows:

K 3 sts, m1l, knit to 3 sts bef end, m 1 (0, 0, 0) (0, 1, 1) r, k to end.

Purl one row.

K 3 sts, m1l, knit to 3 sts bef end, m 0 (1, 1, 1) (0, 0, 0) r, k to end.

Purl one row.

K 3 sts, m1l, knit to 3 sts bef end, m 0 (0, 0, 0) (1, 0, 0) r, k to end.

Purl one row.

Continue working increases on both sides in the established pattern for a total of 7 (8, 8, 8) (9,
10, 10) arm hole increases and a total of 9 (9, 9, 9) (11, 12, 12) v-neck increases, ending with a
right side increase row. 32 (33, 35, 38) (42, 44, 46) sts in total.

Break yarns, leaving a 10cm tail, and place all sts on a spare cable or waste yarn.

LEFT front:

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Starting at the neck, pick-up 16 (16, 18, 21) (22, 22, 24) sts along the left shoulder edge (pick-
up on every row). The rst row will be a wrong side row.

Purl one row.

Knit one row.

Work a short row as follows: P 6 (6, 8, 9) (10, 10, 11) sts, turn work. Gsr, knit to end.

Next, work a total of 10 (14, 14, 18) (12, 14, 18) rows in stockinette stitch, ending with a right
side row.

Start v-neck increases as follows:

Purl to 3 sts bef end, m1rp, p to end.

Knit one row.
(Purl one row. Knit one row) twice.

Knit these 6 rows a total of 6 (5, 5, 5) (7, 8, 8) times. 22 (21, 23, 26) (29, 30, 32) sts in total.

ONLY SIZES 2, 3, 4 and 5:

Purl to 3 sts bef end, m1rp, p to end. - (22, 24, 27) (30, -, -) sts in total.
Knit one row

Next, ONLY SIZES 2, 3 and 4:

Purl one row.

Knit one row.

ALL SIZES:

You will now continue to increase for the v-neck on every 6th row and AT THE SAME
TIME start shaping the arm hole by increasing on every wrong side row, as follows:

P 3 sts, m1lp, purl to 3 sts bef end, m 1 (0, 0, 0) (0, 1, 1) rp, p to end.
Knit one row.

P 3 sts, m1lp, purl to 3 sts bef end, m 0 (1, 1, 1) (0, 0, 0) rp, p to end.
Knit one row.

P 3 sts, m1lp, purl to 3 sts bef end, m 0 (0, 0, 0) (1, 0, 0) rp, p to end.

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Knit one row.

Continue working increases on both sides in the established pattern for a total of 7 (8, 8, 8) (9,
10, 10) arm hole increases and a total of 9 (9, 9, 9) (11, 12, 12) v-neck increases, ending with a
wrong side increase row. 32 (33, 35, 38) (42, 44, 46) sts in total.

Break yarns, leaving a 10cm tail.

Joining front and back

Place all stitches on a long circular needle: Left front stitches, back stitches and right front
stitches.

Facing the wrong side of the work, join yarn and purl across the 32 (33, 35, 38) (42, 44, 46) sts
of the right front, cast on 4 (6, 8, 10) (10, 12, 16) sts for the underarm gusset, purl across the
71 (76, 80, 86) (92, 96, 102) sts of the back, cast on 4 (6, 8, 10) (10, 12, 16) sts for the other
gusset and purl across the the 32 (33, 35, 38) (42, 44, 46) sts of the left front. 143 (154, 166,
182) (196, 208, 226) sts in total.

Next you will add the last v-neck increases while working back and forth on all sts:

(Knit one row. Purl one row) twice.

Next row (increase row): K 3 sts, m1l, knit to 3 sts bef end, m1r, knit to end.

Purl one row.

Knit these 6 rows 2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 1, 1) times in total. 147 (158, 170, 186) (200, 210, 228) sts in
total.

Finally, work 40 rows in stockinette stitch, ending with a wrong side row.

Ribbing:

ONLY SIZE 1:

With smaller needles, k 2 sts, ssk, (p 2 sts, k 2 sts) 15 times, p 2 sts, ssk, k 1 st, (p 2 sts, k 2 sts) to
6 sts bef end, p 2 sts, k2tog, k 2 sts. 144 sts in total.

ONLY SIZES 2, 3, 4 and 6:

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With smaller needles, k 2 sts, ssk, (p 2 sts, k 2 sts) to 6 sts bef end, p 2 sts, k2tog, k 2 sts. - (156,
168, 184) (-, 208, -) sts in total.

ALL SIZES:

With smaller needles, p3 sts, (k 2 sts, p 2 sts) to 5 sts bef end, k 2 sts, p 3 sts.

Work 2 (2, 2, 2) (3, 2, 3) more rows of ribbing in the established pattern.

Bind off carefully in pattern.

Ribbings:

Note: When picking up stitches along the side edges, pick 3 sts from every 4 rows.

Armscye ribbing:

Right armscye: With smaller needle and starting at the center of the underarm gusset, pick-
up 2 (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 8) sts from the gusset, approx 34 (37, 38, 40) (41, 44, 46) sts along the back,
approx 48 (51, 51, 54) (59, 65, 68) sts along the front and 2 (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 8) from the gusset.
86 (94, 97, 104) (110, 121, 130) sts in total. Join to work in the round.

Work one round in (k 2 sts, p 2 sts) ribbing, decreasing the necessary number of sts along the
way to obtain a total of 84 (92, 96, 104) (108, 120, 128) sts.

Work another round in rib.

Bind off carefully in pattern.

Left armscye: With smaller needle and starting at the center of the underarm gusset, pick-up
2 (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 8) sts from the gusset, approx 48 (51, 51, 54) (59, 65, 68) sts along the front,
approx 34 (37, 38, 40) (41, 44, 46) sts along the back and 2 (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 8) from the gusset.
86 (94, 97, 104) (110, 121, 130) sts in total. Join to work in the round and work as right
armscye.

Button band:

With smaller needles and starting at the bottom of the right front, pick-up 4 sts from the edge
of the ribbing, approx 84 (87, 89, 92) (96, 97, 100) sts from the right front edge, 2 sts from the
shoulder line, 23 (27, 27, 29) (29, 31, 33) from the back (pick up between every st), 2 sts from

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the shoulder line, approx 84 (87, 89, 92) (96, 97, 100) from the left front edge and 4 sts from
the edge of the left front ribbing. Approx 203 (213, 217, 225) (233, 237, 245) sts in total.

The rst row is a wrong side row. Decrease 3 (1, 1, 1) (1, 1, 1) or the necessary number of
stitches along this row to obtain a total of 200 (212, 216, 224) (232, 236, 244) sts or a smaller
number that is divisible by 4 (the shoulder lines are a good placement for the decreases): Purl
3 sts, (k 2 sts, p 2 sts) to 5 sts bef end, k 2 sts, p 3 sts.

Work two more rows of ribbing in the established pattern.

In the next row (right side row), work the button holes as follows:

K 2 sts, ssk, cast on 2 sts, k2tog, rib 10 sts, p2tog, cast on 2 sts, ssp, rib 10 sts, ssk, cast on 2 sts,
k2tog, rib to end. Three button holes completed.

Work two more rows of ribbing in the established pattern.

Bind off carefully in pattern.

FINISHING

Weave in ends with tapestry needle. Soak in lukewarm water and wool wash. Rinse gently
and remove excess water without wringing. Lay at for drying and block to size.

ABBREVIATIONS:

bef - before
CO - Cast on
gsr - German Short Row
k - knit
k2tog - knit two stitches together (work a right leaning decrease)
m1l - make one left (work a left leaning increase).
m1lp - make one left in purl (work a left leaning increase in purl).
m1r - make one right (work a right leaning increase).
m1rp - make one right in purl (work a right leaning increase in purl).
p - purl
p2tog - purl two stitches together (work a left leaning decrease)
rib - work the stated number of stitches in rib, matching the stitches on the previous row/
round.
ssk - slip, slip, knit (work a left leaning decrease)
ssp - slip, slip, purl (work a right leaning decrease)

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sts - stitches

Tag your project with #burgosvest

Pattern page on Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/burgos

@ Rosa Pomar, 2022. For personal use only.

A special thank you to Marlene, Débora, Alexandra, Constança, Ana and Sandra (in the
photo) and the other test-knitters who helped me with this pattern. Photo by Ágata Xavier.

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