Cee-2027 Antiroll
Cee-2027 Antiroll
Cee-2027 Antiroll
P/N: C2027
UNIVERSAL ANTI-ROLL BAR KIT
This kit is designed for use in any drag race chassis to control side-to-side body roll during
hard launching. It mounts between the frame rails of the chassis above the rear axle housing
with links that attach to the housing. It is adjustable for preload enabling you to tune for
changing track conditions.
PARTS LIST
QTY. DESCRIPTION
2) Billet Aluminum Arms
1) Bearing Mount Bracket D/S
1) Bearing Mount Bracket P/S
2) 3/8-16 x 1/2 Long Set Screw
2) 3/8-16 1/2 Long Set Screw W/Patch
2) 3/8-24 Right Hand Jam Nut
2) 3/8-24 Left Hand Jam Nut
2) Tube Ends, 3/8-24 RH Thread
2) Tube Ends, 3/8-24 LH Thread
4) 3/8-16 Nylon Insert Lock Nut
2) Bearings, 1" ID Flange Mounted
4) 3/8-16 x 1.25 Hex Head Screw Gr 5
2) 3/8-16 x 1.75 Hex Head Screw Gr 5
4) Mounting Tab, 3" Axle
4) Mounting Tab, Axle Back Brace
2) 3/8" Rod End Right Hand Thread
2) 3/8" Rod End Left Hand Thread
2) Link Tube Adjuster
1) Tube, Torsion
4) 5/16-18 x 3/4 Long Carriage Bolt Gr 5
4) 5/16-18 Nylon Insert Lock Nut
2) Machined Splined Bushing
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Introduction:
This kit can be installed on a chassis with a rectangular tube frame or a round tube frame chassis.
A. Use with rectangular frame rails. The Bearing Mounting Brackets are welded to the inside face
of the frame rail with the bearing mounted between the bracket and the frame rail. This will give the
installer the maximum desired spread between the billet aluminum arms. (Fig. A)
B. Use with a round tube frame rail chassis. The Bearing Mounting Brackets will have to be
radius cut as shown (Fig. B) with the bearings mounted on the bracket face.
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INSTALLATION:
1. The vehicle must be raised and set the wheels on (4) level height stands to simulate the ride height.
2. Next determine if your frame rails run parallel to each other, since the maximum misalignment of
the bearings is 3 degrees. If the rails exceed 3 degrees, then a bearing mount bracket leg will have to
be trimmed so the torsion bar is perpendicular to the bearing and the mount is within the 3 degrees.
CAUTION: Be sure to allow enough length on the legs of the bracket to slide the bearing into the
channel of the bracket and between the frame rail. (If you can't fit the bearing into the channel pocket,
the bearing can be mounted on the outside of the bracket.
3. Roughly determine the approximate location where the Bearing Mounting Bracket will be mounted
to the frame and measure the distance between the frame rails. Subtract a 1/4" from this dimension
and rough cut the torsion bar. The bar will have to be cut more accurately later on but right now you
must pre-position the assembly between the frame rails.
4. Assemble the bearing and flanges inside the bearing bracket pocket (Fig.2) and tighten the nuts in
place but leaving the bearing loose enough to swivel within the bearing flanges. Complete the other
side in the same manner.
Note: the difference between the driver and passenger side brackets is simply that the holes are
mirrored. Determine if the nut positioning has any advantage in your application. Otherwise the
brackets can be mounted on either side.
5. Install the billet aluminum arm assemblies (as shown in Fig. 1e) onto the torsion tube. Slide the
bearing bracket assembly on each end of the torsion bar.
6. Slide the assembly between the frame rails to the approximate location and clamp the brackets to
the frame rails.
7. Take the axle tab mounting assembly (Fig. 1f) and determine the best position along the axle. We
recommend the axle tabs to be mounted to the rear side of the housing since there are generally fewer
objects in the way. This assembly can be rotated anywhere from a horizontal position at the rear of the
axle housing up to a vertical position as long as there is sufficient link tube adjuster length to make
later adjustments. Note: the closer the aluminum arms and axle tabs are to each other the more you
increase the spring rate of the assembly; therefore it's best to try to position the arms and the axle tabs
outward towards the frame rails as much as possible. Set the billet arm at minus 14 1/2 degrees from
the top of the billet arm with a protractor. Helpful Hint: The protractor can be held in place with
double-sided rug tape. (This angle is determined by 4 1/2 degree angle of the machined arm plus the
recommended set angle of 10 degrees equals 14 1/2 degrees total) (fig 7). The link tube adjuster
should be in a vertical position within +/-5 degrees and aligned with the hole or rod end in the tab
bracket. The link tube adjuster will probably have to be shortened to accomplish all dimensional
parameters. Next, the length of the link tube adjuster to be cut is determined by holding the link tube
adjuster along side the rod end adapter and marking the tube even with the shoulder on the adapter
(Fig. 3). Note both link tube adjusters should be the same length. The billet aluminum arms should be
square to the axle mounting tabs on the axle and equal distant from each side of the frame. Mark the
positioning of the axle mounting tab assemblies to be welded. Mark and scribe the lateral position of
the aluminum billet arms on the torsion tube. (Fig. 3) Rotational positioning is not required at this
time. Accurately mark the position vertical and horizontal of both the bearing mounting brackets on
the frame. Next mark and scribe the torsion bar ends that extend through the bearings to be trimmed
off.
8. Unclamp and remove the torsion bar assembly. Trim the torsion bar to length as marked on each
end that extended beyond the bearings.
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9. Cut the link tube adjusters to length. Both should be the same length.
10. Weld prep the end of the link tube adjusters by removing the mill finish 1/2" from the tube end.
Weld the hexagon tube end adapters to the link tube adjusters (without the rod ends threaded in).
11. The next step we recommend using a tig weld process to achieve a small weld around the splined
bushing to the torsion bar. Set the torsion bar and billet arms on a flat surface where welding can be
performed. Carefully align the splined bushings to your previously scribed or marked line on the
torsion bar. Recheck to be sure arms are still laying flat and are in alignment. (Fig. 4) Place the
welding ground in the center of the torsion bar so you don't short arc the finished billet arms. Tack
weld the bushings in place with a mild steel filler rod. Keep all welds below the minimum splined
diameter; otherwise the weld will interfere with removal of the billet arms. Loosen the set screw
in the billet arms and slide the arms off from the splined bushing. Complete the welding all around on
both sides of the splined bushings.
12. Lay the torsion tube on a flat surface and re-install the aluminum billet arms onto the splined
bushings. Be sure both arms are in alignment to each other and replace the non-patched set screws
with the locking patched set screws. Torque the screws to 18 foot-pounds.
13. Mig weld the bearing brackets to the frame rails as marked.
14. Install the bearings into the bearing pockets and hand tighten the nuts. Install the torsion bar into
the bearing assemblies. Tighten the (4) carriage bolt nuts to secure the bearings and torque to 15 foot-
pounds. Position the torsion bar equal distant at both bearing ends and tighten the (4) bearing set
screws to 70 inch-pounds.
15. Re-install the link tube adjusters and rod ends to the torsion bar assembly.
16. Tack weld the axle mounting tabs to the axle at the marked locations. Check the alignments,
dimensions and appearance. Remove the rod end from the tab mounting assembly and finish welding.
17. Re-install the bolt, holding the rod end to the axle mounting assembly and torque all (4) 3/8" bolts
to 25 foot-pounds. Tighten the (4) link adjuster tube jam nuts.
ADJUSTMENTS
Begin your tuning by creating a baseline setting for the vehicle. Have someone watch or videotape the
car as it leaves the starting line. Use the following guidelines to correct torque steer or chassis twist:
- If the car pulls to the right, lengthen the passenger side adjuster link to add preload.
- If the car pulls to the left, lengthen the driver's side adjuster link. You can also shorten the
passenger side link to achieve the same results.
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PRE-ASSEMBLE
INSTALLATION
After you have completed this installation, we highly recommend you use a good quality primer
and paint to protect your newly installed Anti-Roll Bar. As your chassis supplier, thank you for
choosing Competition Engineering.