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Hydrolysed proteins in cosmetic production, part II

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 COSME TICS
HYDR OLYSED PR OTEINS

M. Ścibisz, J. Arct*, K. Pytkowska

Protein hydrolysates
in cosmetics production, part II

Key words: skin care, hair care, cell growth stimulation, undesired effect, modified hydrolysed proteins,
formulations

Cosmetic properties of proteins on proteins or their hydrolysates chem- cortex damages. Long-term and fre-
and their hydrolysates ical and physicochemical properties and quent exposition to damaging factors
in some cases (i.e. during damaged hair and inappropriate hair care entails cuti-
Proteins have been used in cosmetics treatment) also on the state of the ad- cle structure alterations manifested by
from time immemorial, mainly in form of sorbing surface. In the event of proteins, worsen hair appearance.
plant or animal extracts. Nevertheless, term “substantivity” first of all concerns Studies concerning factors, which influ-
just 40 years ago first hydrolysates of iso- ability to form weak or strong bonds ence the proteins substantivity, such as
lated proteins were introduced. Nowa- with keratin of the stratum corneum or time of contact, concentration, hair con-
days, they belong to the most often hair cuticle. In case of protein molecules dition (normal and bleached hair) were
used group of active ingredients, pri- with molecular weights lower than 3000 carried out. It was stated, that in case of
marily for hair care and top quality Da barely few studies confirmed their both healthy and bleached hair, sorp-
cleansing products. ability to penetrate deeper areas of skin tion of peptides on the surface occurs
Typology of available hydrolysates is var- (dermis) and hair (cortex). Experiment mainly during the first 15 minutes of
ious, with regard to source of their origin which revealed, that peptides can easily treatment by water solution. After this
and diversity of production processes. penetrate cuticle and tends to accumu- period increase in quantity of adsorbed
However, there is a strong dependence late in cortex were carried out in the 70- peptides is much slower. Also quantity
between their cosmetic activity and ties. In this study quantity of peptides of bounded proteins and their hy-
physicochemical properties, such as av- was determined by detection technique drolysates clearly increased as hair con-
erage molecular weight, charge or hy- based on fragmentary ninhidrine stain- dition worsened. Surprisingly, this de-
drophobicity. ing of considered hair. It should be no- pendence was limited – hair bleached
ticed that this assay is characterized by twice adsorbed much more polypep-
Substantivity very low precision. Hence, credibility of tide molecules than hair after single
Many conducted studies concerning obtained results seems to be question- bleaching. Further damage caused by
cosmetic activity of proteins and their able. repeated application of bleaching agent
hydrolysates revealed, that the most im- Human hair (Fig. 1) is composed of two didn’t affect the adsorption level. Sorp-
portant feature determining their effec- main layers: outer shield containing tion of polypeptides wasn’t also influ-
tiveness is substantivity to the surface of high quantities of sulfur amino acids and enced by their concentration (in range
the skin and hair. cortex (60 – 90% of the fiber) responsi- between 5 and 20%).
The outermost layer of skin and hair is ble for mechanical properties of the hair. Similar results were obtained during
built of fewer or more compact keratin Empty core (medulla) is not always pre- studies concerning substantivity of col-
structures. As a result of non-covalent in- sent - it usually appears in thick hairs. lagen hydrolysates with various molec-
teractions, during treatment with pro- Hair ending and hair root are regiments ular weights. In case of these experi-
teins and their hydrolysates water solu- where medulla is not observed. Sub- ments, method based on hydroxypro-
tions, layer of adsorbed polypeptides is stances used for hair treatments (oxi- line (amino acid characteristic for colla-
formed on the surface. Its properties and dants, alkalies), environmental factors gen) assay was used. It was revealed,
strength of the force which keeps it con- (UV radiation, alkaline pollutions), and that absorption of peptides increases si-
nected with the surface strictly depends friction or bending create cuticle and multaneously with hair damage. At the

12 SÖFW-Journal Wydanie Polskie | 1 | 4-2008

 COSME TICS
HYDR OLYSED PR OTEINS

end of the trial healthy hair contained

about 0.02% of the peptides, while
bleached hair 0.2% and hairs additional-
ly after permanent waving contained
nearly 3% of polypeptides. Hydrolysates
with low molecular weight showed
maximum substantivity.
Other experiment was conducted on
the human skin. Surface of the skin was
treated for 10 minutes with 9% solution
of tested hydrolysate (m.w. 2000 Da).
Next, using hydroxyproline assay con-
tent of the collagen hydrolysate in each
layer of stripped skin was estimated. Ex-
periment revealed, that collagen pep-
tides were present in the first 6 layers (21
verified) of stratum corneum. In layers 1 Fig. 1 Cross-section of the hair shaft
to 3 content of collagen amounted to
2.78µg/cm2, while in layers 4 to 6 only
0,33µg/cm2. In comparison, control
probe in layers 1-3 contained As a result following conclusions were amined. Tested hydrolysates were ob-
0.15µg/cm2 of collagen peptides. drawn: tained from both animal and plant
Influence of the pH on the collagen hy- sources; hydrolysates from following
drolysate substantivity to hair after • increase of the polypeptides con- materials were used: collagen, keratin,
bleaching and permanent waving (hy- centration causes practically rectilin- elastin, wheat and corn gluten. Peptides
drogen peroxide, ammonium thiogly- ear growth of adsorbed substances obtained from keratin demonstrated
colate, sodium bromate) was also inves- quantity, this dependence is also high substantivity, higher in compas-
tigated. It was observed, that absorption true for concentration higher than sion to hydrolysates fro other animal and
is the highest in neutral pH (7.0). Maxi- 5%, what is clearly not in conformity plant sources. As a result of conducted
mum substantivity in alkaline pH was with previous results, studies such order of hydrolysed pro-
observed only in the event of hair pre- • type of cosmetic vehicle (water, teins with respect to decreasing sub-
treated with ammonium thioglycolate. shampoos with various formula- stantivity has been proposed:
It was also found, that in case of hair pre- tions) and conditions of its usage
treated with hydrogen peroxide and have influence on the peptides sub- keratin > wheat gluten > collagen
ammonium thioglycolate, adsorption of stantivity to hair,
peptides significantly increases by the • adsorption is higher for damaged In case of elastin hydrolysates obtained
first 5-10 minutes in the course of action. than for healthy hair. Dependence is results were ambiguous, whereas small
Conducted studies concerning substan- true only in case of low concentra- quantity of assayed samples for corn hy-
tivity of peptide fractions with various tion of peptides and short time of ap- drolysates did not allow placing it in pre-
molecular weights, which were isolated plication, sented line. For compared hydrolysates
from hydrolysates available on market • peptides with molecular weights in received from the same protein and
proved, that fractions with m.w. about range 7500 – 15000 Da demonstrate characterized by the same isoelectric
1000 Da showed the strongest adsorp- the highest substantivity, point (pI) value, substantivity increased
tion. Additionally, higher substantivity • hydrolysates with the lowest value of in conjunction with decreasing molecu-
was observed for hair after bleaching isoelectric point show the highest lar weight. Additionally, absorption of
and permanent waving than for only substantivity. peptides especially from LMW hy-
bleached hair. Again, increasing absorp- dolysate fractions, was preferred both
tion with increasing hair damage was Part of these conclusions confirms re- for damaged and healthy hair. Thus re-
confirmed. sults obtained in previous studies. How- sults confirmed that substantivity de-
In order to investigate substantivity of ever, there are some differences espe- pends on hydrophobicity. The higher
collagen hydrolysates to the surface of cially in matter of substantivity and mol- hydrophobicity of the peptide the
the skin and hair with respect to applied ecular weight of hydrolysates depen- smaller its effective size in the water so-
concentration, type of cosmetic vehicle, dence. lutions. It is caused by forming such
hair condition and time of product ap- In order to evaluate relationship be- shape of the structure, thanks to which
plication experiments were carried out. tween peptide structure and its ability to peptide reduces to minimum its contact
Peptide quantity determination was bind with hair keratin, 20 hydrolysates with water molecules. As a result, small
based on their labeling with 125I isotope. with various molecular weights were ex- peptide molecules much easier ap-

14 SÖFW-Journal Wydanie Polskie | 1 | 4-2008

 COSME TICS
HYDR OLYSED PR OTEINS

proach to skin and hair keratins’binding pressure, which increases permeabil- properties and irritation potential with
centres and penetrate keratin fibres. ity of the stratum corneum and hairs respect to the chain length of the
Weak, but meaningful substantivity in- cuticle. polypeptide was investigated. It was
crease was observed, when isoelectric stated, that molecules containing in
point value of particular hydrolysate was Addition of proteins is one of the most their structure 750 Da chain have five
higher. This dependence was clear for examined and effective method of epi- times lower irritancy potential than
damaged hair (after bleaching or per- dermis protection from negative effects those containing 500 Da chain. Molecu-
manent waving). It should be noticed, caused by surfactants. Activity of pro- lar weight of proteins’chain higher than
that two types of wheat hydrolysates teins and their derivatives may be due 750 Da insignificantly lowered irritation
with different pI values (pI1= 3.9 and to: potential of surfactant. On the other
pI2=5.6) were compared. Experiment hand, molecules containing short
was carried out in pH = 6.0, hence both • lowering the CMC value by surfac- chains had the best cleansing proper-
hydrolysates were negatively charged, tant molecules complexing (ionic ties. Presence of chain with higher mol-
same as surface of the hair. Probably, this bonds, hydrogen, hydrophobic and ecular weight than 750 Da significantly
could significantly reduce their substan- mixed micelle formation), which re- reduced cleansing properties. It was al-
tivity. duces quantity of free, unbounded so observed, that combination of an-
monomers in the solution; surface ionic surfactant (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,
Reduction of surfactants’ activity remain unchanged. Sorp- SLS) and protein derivative (20% of the
irritant potential tion of surfactant molecules on the mixture) reduced irritation potential by
Frequent and accumulative skin exposi- surface of proteins is shown in one third in comparison to solution con-
tion to the surfactants, especially to an- Fig. 2. taining only SLS. Other trial revealed,
ionic, can lead to skin barrier damage • binding the protein to skin keratin that pure Sodium Laureth Sulfate com-
and provoke such adverse effects as: by weak, but numerous bonds, ipso pletely deactivated enzyme for saccha-
dryness, roughness, and even irritation. facto causing formation of protec- rose, while its combination with protein
This phenomenon is caused by surfac- tive colloidal layer which is able to derivative in ratio 35 : 65 practically did-
tant penetration and interaction with bind aggressive chemical sub- n’t affect this enzyme.
liquid crystal structures of stratum stances. Many studies concerning influence of
corneum, as well as cell membranes in proteins and their derivatives on reduc-
viable epidermis. On the other hand, Protective properties of proteins and tion of surfactant irritant potential were
hair damages caused by activity of sur- their hydrolysates, preventing skin irrita- conducted. Effectiveness of their ability
factants are result of cuticle structure re- tion and hair damaging, were evaluated to diminish negative activity of surfac-
laxing and weakness of its mechanical in in vitro and in vivo tests carried out in tants was evaluated among others by
properties. human and in animals. Initially, deriva- usage of two hydrolysates combination,
When critical micelle concentration tives of proteins were used – fatty acids characterized by different molecular
(CMC) is reached, which is characteristic condensates, utilized as a mild surfac- weights, 2200 Da (pI=5.1) and 800 Da
for particular surfactant and tempera- tants. Dependence of their cleansing (pI=5.1). In experiment, surfactants with
ture, large aggregates (micelles) are
formed. Remaining surfactant
monomers present in solution are able
to penetrate keratin structures of skin
and hair.
Anionic surfactants may affect the skin
by following three postulated mecha-
nisms:

• hydrocarbon chain of the surfactant

penetrates through non-polar re-
gions of keratin where it disturbs hy-
drophobic bonds stabilizing proteins
conformation,
• negative charge of surfactant gener-
ates forces causing attraction or re-
pulsion, which interact with charged
fragments of keratin and cause its
structure alteration,
• presence of hydrophilic ionic struc- Fig. 2 Interaction of surfactant molecules with protein
tures leads to increase of osmotic

SÖFW-Journal Wydanie Polskie | 1 | 4-2008 15

 COSME TICS
HYDR OLYSED PR OTEINS

soothing properties, available on the with higher hydrophobicity and molec- evaluation of each skin layer revealed
market, were used. They were: Cocami- ular weight. significant difference of their thickness
dopropyl Betaine and Cocamidopropyl- Other studies concerned ability of hy- strictly related to the hydration level.
Amine Betaine. Similar to proteins, activ- drolysates to interact with Sodium Lau- Studies concerning moisturizing prop-
ity of these compounds is based on in- ryl Sulfate (SLS). It was demonstrated, erties of proteins and their hydrolysates
teractions with surfactant molecules that proteins which are short in sulphur- delivered from various physicochemical
and mixed micelle formation. Evaluation containing amino acids show tendency forms of cosmetics, such as o/w emul-
of such parameters as skin hydration to bind over 50% more SLS than pro- sions, gels, water solutions and form
and transepidermal water loss allowed teins with ability to form disulfide bonds which contained surfactants, were con-
estimating ability of protein additives to (i.e. keratin). CMC values of complexes ducted. HMW proteins showed excel-
reduce undesirable effects caused by formed by protein and tested surfactant lent moisturizing properties when used
surfactants. were similar in case of all proteins re- in o/w emulsions and cleansing prod-
Effectiveness was estimated after single gardless of their molecular weight. ucts, whereas low molecular acted as a
and multiple skin exposition to tested substances which astringe and tighten
substances. Results of conducted exper- the skin, even the surface and have an-
iments allowed drawing following con-
Hair and skin care ti-wrinkle properties. Results of studies
clusions: allowed to define advantages of pro-
In skin care, proteins and hydrolysed teins and hydrolysed proteins as cos-
• influence on TEWL of protein hy- proteins are used mainly as moisturizing metic ingredients:
drolysates is similar to Cocamido- agents. Polypeptides adsorbed on the
propyl Betaine and Cocamidopropyl- skin surface supplement outer hy- • they increase elasticity and hydration
Amine Betaine after single skin treat- drophilic skin coat and due to ability of level of the skin after application of
ment with surfactant solution, hydrogen bonds formation they bind leave on (creams) as well as rinse–off
• hydrolysates with high molecular water molecules. Many amino acids cosmetics (soaps, shampoos),
weight demonstrate higher protec- may act as a donors (ie. arginine and • they improve skin tightness,
tive properties in comparison with tryptophan) and acceptors (asparagine, • they improve skin ability to respond
l.m.w. hydrolysed proteins, glutamine, serine and threonine) in con- to the deformation, thus temporary
• there is a slight, but noticeable in- nection with presence of special groups even wrinkles.
crease of the skin tolerance in con- localized in the side chains. On the oth-
junction with protein concentration er hand, depending on the pH value, Proteinaceous ingredients are used in
increase, acidic (glutamic and aspartic acid) and cosmetics for skin care mainly at con-
• wheat proteins demonstrate synergy alkaline (lysine, tyrosine, histidine) centration of 0.1 to 2% (Formula-
with soothing surfactants. amino acids play role as hydrogen ac- tions 1-2). Hydrolysed proteins are of-
ceptors or donors. Highly hydrated lay- ten used in combination with other
In case of multiple tests, proteins were er, which consist of proteins bounded to moisturizing agents, such as glycerin,
more effective than soothing surfac- the skin surface hampers diffusion and sodium lactate, or free amino acids. Po-
tants. It confirms the fact, that beyond di- prevents water evaporation. Hy- lar peptides, first of all constitute ingre-
rect interactions with SLS, protein mole- drolysates with low molecular weight dients of emulsion water phase. Their
cules bind with skin keratin forming con- may form strongly adsorbed monomol- hydrophilic nature permit to suppose
tinuous barrier which protects the stra- ecular layer, which is difficult to remove. that they stabilize o/w emulsions, due to
tum corneum. Large molecules tend to form weakly increasing viscosity of the external
Using similar method, effects of colla- anchored film, but with greater ability to phase. On the other hand hydrophobic
gen, elastin, keratin and wheat gluten bound water molecules. Hence, HMW proteins, characterized by low solubility
hydrolysates with various molecular polypeptides are more often used as might stabilize emulsions, thanks to wa-
weights were investigated. All tested hy- moisturizing film formers. LMW pep- ter-oil interface affinity.
drolysates showed ability to reduce irri- tides, on the other hand constitute in- Proteins and hydrolysed proteins are
tation potential of SLS. TEWL measure- gredients of products, which require widely applied in hair care cosmetics as
ments allowed creating following de- high substanivity, i.e. designed for hair conditioning agents – improving soft-
pendence (decreasing ability to reduce regeneration, where peptides after ness, elasticity, and gloss and hair re-
irritant potential of the surfactant) with building in hair keratin restore its prop- silience. They are most often used as
respect to hydrolysates origin: er structure. main ingredients of shampoos and both
Conducted studies confirmed benefi- - leave on and rinse off conditioners for
elastin and gluten > collagen cial influence of proteins on the skin hy- damaged and dry hair. In this kind of for-
>> keratin dration. In vivo comparative test using mulations their concentration is usually
emulsion containing 5% of the water not higher than 1-2% (Formulations 3-
Results of conducted studies showed soluble collagen and placebo, was car- 4).
better protection ability of hydrolysates ried out. After 10 days of application, Proteins play crucial role in bleaching,

16 SÖFW-Journal Wydanie Polskie | 1 | 4-2008

 COSME TICS
HYDR OLYSED PR OTEINS

permanent waving and hair straighten- their penetration ability into deeper
Foam boosting effect
ing products.They have unique ability to parts of skin. That’s why their activity in
limit undesirable effects of oxidizing and these areas seems to be questionable. Softness and smoothness to skin and
reducing agents on the hair structure. On the other hand, in case of low mole- hair, together with anti-irritating effect
Permanent waving is based on disulfide cular weight peptides penetration are the main factors determining use of
bonds reduction and formation of a new through stratum corneum is possible, such ingredients in cosmetic products.
bonds determining geometry of fibrils. and is supported by alkyl substituents. Proteins may also be applied as “techni-
Addition of HMW protein hydrolysates, cal function” ingredients (buffering
which are rich in sulfur-containing

Undesired activity
properties, viscosity control). One of
amino acids causes formation of cova- such function is also foam boosting ef-
lent bonds between keratin and deliv- fect. Water soluble proteins, as other hy-
ered in cosmetic polypeptides. As a re- Protein based ingredients are of natural drophilic polymers stabilise foams.
sult, durable connections are formed, origin. The same INCI name may used for Hydrolysed proteins of different origin
which reduce damages occurring dur- substances obtained in different tech- (i.e. collagen, elastin, keratin, corn
ing treatment. Additionally, hydrolysates nological processes. That implicates risk gluten, and wheat proteins) were stud-
which are easily accessible for oxidizing of irritant activity of these substances. ied regarding their foam boosting activ-
and reducing agents constitute sub- Safety reports published by the Ameri- ity. The best effect was obtained for hy-
strates in side reactions, which normally can College of Toxicology classified col- drolysed wheat proteins (foam height at
occur between mentioned agent and lagen hydrolysates as non-toxic, sub- approx 100-140mm, with high stability)
hair keratin. As keratins plant equivalent stances with minimal irritant effect (eval- with exception of hydrolysate obtained
used in these kind of treatments wheat uated in Draize test), without sensitiza- by means of enzymatic hydrolysis. Hy-
proteins are mainly used. tion in guinea-pig test. LD50 value for rats drolysed keratin formed foam with sig-
and mouses was at level of 10-20 grams nificant height, yet unstable. In the 5-8
of pure protein per kg of the body mass. pH range foam boosting effect was sim-
Despite of low toxicity of proteins, one

Cells growth stimulation
ilar for various hydrolysed proteins. That
can find studies indicating undesired ac- effect was considerable worse in the pH
tivity of various proteins and their deriv- below 5.
Many publications concerning proteins atives used in hair care cosmetic prod- Foam boosting behaviour relied also on
and their hydrolysates pay special atten- ucts. Such ingredients are obtained from molecular weight, especially in the case
tion to their stimuli effect on cells divi- collagen, elastin, keratin, milk proteins, of hydrolysed proteins with low hy-
sions. It was mainly observed in treated wheat, silk and almonds. Hydrolysates of drophobicity. Such tendency was not
with wheat proteins fibroblasts. Level of these proteins showed irritant potential observed for hydrolysed wheat protein.
cells divisions increased simultaneously in 0.5% of examined patients. In studied In the case of hydrolysed collagen foam
with extending concentration of the hy- groups of hydrolysates the larger group boosting effect decreased with molecu-
drolysate (range between 0.01 and of undesired reaction in patients, espe- lar weight reduction.
0.2%). cially with atopic dermatitis, were ob-
In other study, influence of collagen, served for collagen derivative (i.e. Hy-
gelatin and hydrolysed collagen droxypropyl Trimonium Hydrolyzed Col-
Modified hydrolysed protein
(m.w. < 15000Da) on mouse ker- lagen). Such reaction was associated
atinocytes division was determined. Pro- with contact urticaria symptom. The significance of proteins and their hy-
liferation was observed during 8 to 20h There are as well studies confirmed irri- drolysates in cosmetics is also reflected
of the trial. Significant stimulation was tant activities of wheat and bovine hy- by use of theirs modified derivatives.
noticed just after 8h, but only in case of drolysed proteins, used in skin and hair Properties of such compound are strict-
collagen. Results obtained for hy- care products. ly associated with protein’ part in the
drolysates and gelatin, were compara-
ble with results for control probes.
Effects of conducted studies allow de-
ducing that proteins show activity in
deeper parts of skin, as they stimulate fi-
broblast proliferation. Thus they can de-
lay aging process and improve skin elas- R=-CH3, n-alkyl group
ticity and firmness. However, advanta-
geous effects on hairs and skin condi-
tion are due to mentioned before
interactions between proteins and pep-
tides with their surfaces. Studies con- Fig. 3 Chlorhydrine with quarterbary nitrogen atom
cerning permeability didn’t confirm

SÖFW-Journal Wydanie Polskie | 1 | 4-2008 17

 COSME TICS
HYDR OLYSED PR OTEINS

molecule, but through other, non-pro- gen atom (Fig. 3), in alkaline environ- compatibility of quaternary protein de-
tein part they may demonstrate better ment. To increase conditioning effect of rivatives increased with molecular
solubility, substantivity, or better foam such modified protein, linear chains (12 weight increasing of protein part of
boosting effect. Production of protein and more carbon atoms) with lipophilic molecule.
derivatives takes quite big part of cos- properties, are introduced as R alkyl Recently such protein derivatives as sili-
metic ingredients and raw materials group. cone copolymers and phosphorylated
segment. Isoelectric point of hydrolysed proteins derivatives are applied as cosmetic in-
One of the most popular, used for 30 lies in pH range of 4 to 7. After reaction gredients.
years, group of modified hydrolysed yielding quaternary derivative obtain-
proteins are condensates of proteins ing, isoelectric point value increases to
with fatty acids. Protein or hydrolysed pH 9-12. Furthermore, quaternary hy- Literature
proteins, most often obtained by means drolysed proteins indicate positive
of enzymatic hydrolysis, are N-acetylat- charge in whole pH range, while un- (1)E.D. Goddard, J.V. Gruber; Principles of
ed with long chain fatty acids chlorides modified hydrolysed proteins bear it on- polymer science and technology in cos-
in neutral or weak alkaline pH (7-9). Prod- ly in pH below the isoelectric point. metics and personal care; Marcel Dekker,
New York, 1999
ucts of that reaction are described as Increased cationic character of protein
ones of the mildest surface active derivatives increases substantivity of
(2)V.L. Johnsen; Proteins in cosmetics and toi-
agents. Since theirs irritant potential is these compound to both skin and hair letries; Drug&Cosmetic Industry, 6, p.36,
lower than observed one for surfactants keratin, which in physiological pH indi- 1980
form betaines group, they are use in cate total negative charge. Such prop-
shampoos, skin, face cleansing products erties may be useful in washable prod- (3)V.L. Johnsen; Innovation in protein prod-
and shower gels (Formulations 5-6). ucts. Quaternary derivatives are used as ucts and technology; Cosmetics&Toi-
They also indicate a good skin and eyes conditioning and film-forming agents, letries, 92, 12,p.29, 1977
tolerance, have very well cleansing and especially in hair care products. They are
foam boosting properties, even in hard compatible with ionic and non-ionic (4)A. Teglia, G. Mazzola, G. Secchi; Chemical
water. They are as well far soluble in or- surfactants; thereby they are easily in- characteristics and cosmetic properties of
protein hydrolysates; Cosmetics&Toi-
ganic solvents like ethanol. troduced into shampoo formulation.
letries, 108, 11, p.56, 1993
Comparing to condensates of proteins One can find studies that showed
with fatty acids, more important from cationic derivative of wheat protein (5)J.Arct; Proteiny; Wiadomości PTK, 2, 1, p.17,
the commercial point of view are qua- soothing properties of irritant activity of 1999
ternary protein derivatives. Such com- surfactants. They also decreased irritant
pounds are obtained in alkylation reac- potential formulation in which skin
tion of hydrolysed protein with chlorhy- compatible ingredient such as betaines
drine, compound with quaternary nitro- were introduced. Furthermore skin (6)U. Griesbach, M. Klingels, V. Homer; Pro-

Formulation 1 Skin tone cream (Sinerga) Formulation 2 Anti hyperpigmentation skin cream
(Sinerga)
Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
(and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol 10,00
Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed
Ethylhexyl Ethylhexanoate 5,00
Wheat Protein (and) Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone 0,50
(and) Cetearyl Alcohol 10,00
Aqua Do 100
Squalane 12,00
Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Methylparaben (and)
Ethylhexyl Ethylhexanoate 5,00
Propylparaben (and) Glycerin 1,00
Cocoglycerides 2,00
Squalane 10,00
Dimethicone 0,50
Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine 5,00
Aqua Do 100
Algae 2,50
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate 7,00
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein 1,50
Prunus Amigdalus var. Dulcis (and)
Sodium Carbomer 0,10
Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein
Parfum 0,70
(and) Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed
Carbomer 0,40
Wheat Protein 2,50
Aminomethyl Propanol 0,05
Avena Sativa (and) Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
Disodium EDTA 0,10
(and) Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed
Tocopherol (and) Lecithin (and) Citric Acid
Oat Protein 2,50
(and) Ascorbyl Palmitate 0,05

18 SÖFW-Journal Wydanie Polskie | 1 | 4-2008

 COSME TICS
HYDR OLYSED PR OTEINS

Formulation 3 Hair conditioner (Croda)

teins: classic additives and actives for skin
and hair care; Cosmetics&Toiletries, 113,
11, p.69, 1998
Quaternium-91 (and) cetrimonium methosulfate
(7)G.Y. Li, S. Fukunaga, K. Takenouchi, F. Naka- (and) cetearyl alcohol 2,23
mura; Comparative study of the physio- Stearyl alcohol 2,00
logical properties of collagen, gelatin and Cetyl alcohol 0,50
collagen hydrolysate as cosmetic materi- C10-C30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters 1,00
als; International Journal of Cosmetic Sci- PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate 4,50
PG-hydroxyethyl cellulose steardimonium chloride 0,20
ence, 27, p. 101, 2005
Hydrolyzed silk 1,00
Hydrolyzed wheat protein 1,00
(8)UIImann’s Encyclopaedia of Industrial

Hydrolyzed vegetable protein PG-propyl silantriol 1,00

Chemistry, Fifth Edition, A22

(9)E.S. Stern. V.L. Johnsen; Studies on the mol- Glycerin (and) butylene glycol (and) water
ecular weight distribution of cosmetic pro- (and) camellia sinensis leaf extract 0,10
tein hydrolysates; Journal of the Societies Glycerin (and) butylene glycol (and) water
of Cosmetic Chemists, 28, 8, p.447, 1977 (and) chamomilla recutita (Matricaria) extract 0,10
Glycerin (and) butylene glycol (and) water
(10) B.W. Gesslein, R.T. Jones; Kerasol, a new (and) hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract 0,10
keratin protein; Cosmetics&Toiletries, 102, Phenoxyethanol (and) methyl paraben (and) ethyl paraben
(and) butyl paraben (and) propyl paraben (and) isobutyl paraben 1,00
6, p.52, 1987
Aqua 85,27
(11) F. Pasche-Koo, M. Claeys, C. Hauser; Con-
tact urticaria with systemic symptoms
caused by bovine collagen in a hair con-
ditioner; American Journal of Contact Der- Formulation 4 Regenerating shampoo (Cognis)
matitis, 1, 1, p.56. 1996
Sodium coco-sulfate 10,81
Coco-glucoside 19,24
(12) US Patent 4,279,996
Lauryl glucoside (and) stearyl citrate 2,00
Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate 2,00
(13) 24. E.S. Cooperman, V.L. Johnsen; Pene-
tration of protein hydrolysates into human
hair strands; Cosmetic&Perfumery, 88, Hydrolyzed wheat protein 1,00
p.19, 1973 Sodium benzoate 0,50
Perfume q.s.
(14) S.A. Karjala, RJ. Bouthilet, J.E. Williamson; Citric acid (50%) q.s.
Some factors affecting the substantivity of Sodium chloride 0,50
proteins to hair; Proceedings of Scientific Aqua 63,95
Section the Toilet Goods Association, 45, 5,
p.6. 1966

Formulation 5 Shower gel (Sinerga)

(15) M.D. Ranganayaki, T.S. Ranganathan, K.S.
Jayaraman; A novel technique for the
Sodium Laureth Sulfate 25,00
preparation of collagen derivatives for
Lauramidopropyl Betaine 6,00
cosmetics. Part 2. Preparation and charac-

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
terisation of collagen derivative; Research

(and) Sodium Laureth Sulfate 10,00

and Industry, 34, p.183, 1989

(16) M.D. Ranganayaki, T.S. Ranganathan, K.S. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate

Jayaraman; A novel technique for the (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate 5,00
preparation of collage derivatives for cos- Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 5,00
metics. Part 3. Functional properties of col- Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside 2,50
Linoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate 2,50
lagen derivatives; Research and Industry,
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein 2,00
35, p.l, 1990

(17) S.A. Karjala A. Karier, J.E. Williamson; The Yucca Schidigera Extract 1,00
effect of pH on the sorption of collagen – Parfum 1,00
derived peptides by hair; Journal of the So- Preservative q.s.
cieties of Cosmetic Chemists, 18, 10, p.599, Disodium EDTA 0,10
1967 Sodium Chloride 0,50
Aqua Do 100

SÖFW-Journal Wydanie Polskie | 1 | 4-2008 19

 COSME TICS
HYDR OLYSED PR OTEINS

Formulation 6 Shower emulsion(Sinerga)

(22)A. Niinimaki:, M. Niinimaki, S. Makinen-
Kiljunen, M. Hannuksela; Contact urticaria
Sodium Laureth Sulfate 30,00
from protein hydrolysates in hair condi-

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Cocamide MEA 12,50

tioners; Allergy, 53, p.1078, 1998

Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate 5,00 (23)E.Yarjonen, L. Petman, S. Makinen-
Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 5,00 Kiljunen; Immediate contact allergy from
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside 2,50 hydrolyzed wheat in a cosmetic cream; Al-
Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (and) Glyceryl Stearate 10,00 lergy, 55, p.294, 2000
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 1,00
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein 1,50 (24)F. Sanchez-Perez, T. Sanz, A. Garcia-Diez;
Almond (Prunus amigdalus var, dulcis) Oil (and) Hydrolyzed Almond Protein Allergic contact dermatitis from hy-
(and) Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 2,50
drolyzed wheat protein in cosmetic
Aqua Do 100
cream; Contact Dermatitis, 42, p.360, 2000
Preservatives q.s.
Disodium EDTA 0,10
Lauramidopropyl Betaine 1,50
Parfum q.s.

Formulation 7 Mild, hair care shampoo (Cognis)

Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl- trimonium chloride 0,1

Xanthan gum 1,0 Authors’ address:
Decyl glucoside 30,0
Lauryl glucoside 6,0 Marta Ścibisz
Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate 3,0 Academy of Cosmetics
Dicaprylyl ether (and) lauryl alcohol 0,5 and Health Care
Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl
hydrolyzed wheat protein 2,0 Jacek Arct, PhD
Sodium benzoate 0,5 Academy of Cosmetics
Citric acid (50%) q.s. and Health Care,
Aqua 56,9 Podwale St. 13, 00-252 Warsaw, Poland
Warsaw University fo Technology,
Faculty of Chemistry
(18) A. Turowski, B.C. Adelmann-Grill; Sub- (20) R. Pitt-Rivers, F.S.A. Imptombato; The * Email: j.arct@wszkipz.pl
stantivity to hair and skin of 125I-labelled bindin; of Sodium Dodecyl Sulphate to
collagen hydrolysates under application various proteins; Biochemical Journal, 109, Katarzyna Pytkowska
simultaning conditions; International p.825, 1968 Academy of Cosmetics
Journal of Cosmetic Science, 7, p7I, 1985 and Health Care
(21)N.I. Challoner, S.P. Chahal, R.T. Jones; Cos-
(19) A. Teglia, G. Secchi; Minimizing the cuta- metic proteins for skin care; Cosmet-


neous effects of anionic detergents; Cos- ics&Toiletries, 112, 12, p.51, 1997
metics&Toiłetńes, 111, 8, p.61, 1996

20 SÖFW-Journal Wydanie Polskie | 1 | 4-2008

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