Hair Treatments

GROUP 2

BY: JAMAICA MAE ALVARINA, JAMAICA JOE AND

ALESANDRA PAYOT
 INTRODUCTION

Hair follicles originates from

an
interaction between
epidermal
and dermal layers of the
skin
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HAIR PEG

1. Superficial dermis increase in number and grow forward.

2. Specialized fibroblasts which will become the dermal papilla
3 . Keratin cells become the hair shaft.
4. Hair 'peg' migrates downwards to form the follicle with swellings.
5. Hair follicle has one of the highest rates of cell division in the
human body.
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HAIR PEG
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STRUCTURE
1. Cortex - flat cells which overlap in
a roof-tile formation with an
intracellular content to bind them 3. Two Types of Melanin
together
Eumelanin - brown to black coloration

2.Two regions of cortex Pheomelanin - auburn tone

Paracortex - predominant
Orthocortex - minority component
ETHNIC HAIR STRUCTURE

AFRO-CARIBBEAN Caucasian
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GROWTH
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GROWTH

Anagen - active growth stage of hair. Lasts 3-6 years.

Telogen - resting stage. Lasts between 6-8 weeks.
Catagen - transition stage where hair stops growing.
Lasts 2-3 weeks.
HAIR Back to Agenda Page

CHEMISTRY
85% Complex Protein Keratin
7% Water
3% Lipids
2% Pigment
Melanin
Trace amounts of metals such as:
■
aluminium (Al), chromium (Cr), calcium (Ca), copper (Cu), iron (Fe),
manganese (Mn), magnesium (Mg) and zinc (Zn).
CHEMICAL HAIR Back to Agenda Page

REACTIVITY
1. ALKALI HYDROLYSIS
2. ACID HYDROLYSIS
3. REACTIONS OF SULFUR AMINO ACIDS
4. ALKYLATION OF THIOL (SH) GROUPS
5. REACTIVITY OF “FREE” AMINO GROUPS
 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

OF HAIR KERATIN
1. Mechanical Properties 2. Electrical properties

Human scalp hair fibres have resistivity of hair is of the order of

diameters within the range 30- 800 megohms,
100 µm.
A. Particularly high dielectric
A. Hardness similar to that of constant of 8.3, similar to calcite
stainless steel B. Iso-electric point is
B. Breaking load of a typical hair approximately 5.
is of the order of 100 g.
 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

OF HAIR KERATIN
3. Influence of Water 4. Optical properties

85-87% - large changes refractive indices of hair

Less than 85% - water measured at a wavelength of 578
uptake occurs in the regain µm are 1.557 and 1.540.
isotherm.
Greater than 85% -
“solution region”

 INTERPRETATION OF
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
1. Extreme anisotropy of the hair fibre
2. Hardness measurements also give unexpectedly large values
3. Equally large values for the mechanical moduli
4. Strong thermal effects are met
5. Magnitude of the volume swelling of hair in water
6. Hair has a high electrical resistivity and fairly lowdielectri
constant
7. Refractive index of hair is high


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Permanent and temporary
set

1. Water waving techniques are used to create a temporary set,

which is then treated with wave sets, hairsprays, and other
products.
2. Chemical treatments such as thioglycollate-based hair-waving
and -straightening products, are used to achieve permanent sets.
-Ammonium thioglycolate
 HAIR-CARE Back to Agenda Page

PRODUCTS
Various constraints were imposed on hair-care product formulators
during the 1990s. These can be divided into two categories: performance-
related, environmental, and a growing concern for health hazards:

1. Those that use physical mechanisms, such as shampoos, conditioners,

and hair sprays.
2. Those that cause chemical changes in the hair, such
as permanent waving, hair-straightening preparations,
and permanent hair colorants.
 CLASSIFICATION OF
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HAIR CARE PRODUCTS

Hair-care products may be classified into two groups:

1. Those that use physical mechanisms, such as shampoos,

conditioners, and hair sprays.
2. Those that cause chemical changes in the hair, such as
permanent waving, hair-straightening preparations, and
permanent hair colorants.
HAIR-CARE PRODUCTS: Back to Agenda Page

RELEVANT HAIR
CHARACTERISTICS

1. Hair characteristics can be measured

2. objectively in the laboratory or through
3. psychometric tests.
4. 2. Negative characteristics include
5. dandruff (a scalp skin disorder) and
6. hair greying.
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CURRENT POST-SHAMPOO
HAIR-CARE PRODUCTS

1. Approach to developing new

products
2. Instead of quoting highly detailed
formulae, a building-block
formula for each type of product
will be examined first.
3. Some formulae contain special
additives
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HAIR CONDITIONERS

1.Smooth, tangle-free wet and dry

combing.

2. Reduction of static electricity

generated by combing and brushing dry
hair, otherwise known as 'flyaway' hair.
3. Improved gloss or lustre.
4. Improved body or volume.
5. Improved texture of chemically or heat
damaged hair
 FORMULATION
FORMULA I – REPRESENTS A TRADITIONAL
COMPOSITION FOR THIS CATEGORY OF PRODUCT.
 FORMULATION
FORMULATION OF RINSE CONDITIONER
1. CETYL TRIMETHYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (CTAC)
– CATIONIC WETTING AGENT
- KEY INGREDIENT
- EMULSIFIER
2, CETEARYL ALCOHOL- CONFERS VISCOSITY TO THE PRODUCT
3. CITRIC ACID
OTHER INGREDIENTS:
PANTHENOL
DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL
HYDROLYSED PROTEINS OF VEGETABLE
ORIGIN

 HAIR CONDITIONER
FORMULATION OF RINSE CONDITIONER
1. CETYL TRIMETHYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (CTAC)
– CATIONIC WETTING AGENT
- KEY INGREDIENT
- EMULSIFIER
2, CETEARYL ALCOHOL- CONFERS VISCOSITY TO THE PRODUCT
3. CITRIC ACID
OTHER INGREDIENTS:
PANTHENOL
DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL
HYDROLYSED PROTEINS OF VEGETABLE
ORIGIN

HAIR CONDITIONER
MANUFACTURE
1. Add 90% of the water and the
5. Dissolve the preservative in
cetrimonium chloride to the main
a portion of the reserved
manufacturing vessel. Heat to 70-
water. Add to the main vessel
750C.
2. Melt the cetearyl alcohol in a jacketed
with continuous mixing.
side vessel. Heat to 70-750C. 6. Add colour to the main
3. When both phases are at 70-750C, add vessel. Continue to cool.
the oil phase to the water phase with 7. Add fragrance to the main
homogenization to form an emulsion. vessel. Mix until homogeneous.
4. When the emulsion has formed, 8. Adjust pH with citric acid
commence cooling to 4O0C with paddle dissolved in water to pH 3.0-
stirring only. 5.0.
INTENSIVE HAIR CONDITIONER

INTENSIVE HAIR
CONDITIONER
GLYCERIN
BENZALKONIUM
FORMULA II REPRESENTS A
CHLORIDE
MORE INTENSIVE HAIR
CONDITIONER
COCAMIDE MEA
 INTENSIVE HAIR MANUFACTURE
CONDITIONER
1. ADD 90% OF THE WATER,
CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE,
BENZALKONIUM CHLORIDE, 5. DISSOLVE THE PRESERVATIVE IN A
DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL AND PORTION OF RESERVED WATER. ADD
GLYCERINE TO THE MAIN TO THE MAIN VESSEL.
MANUFACTURING VESSEL. HEAT TO
70- 75C. 6. ADD COLOUR TO MAIN VESSEL.
2. MELT CETEARYL ALCOHOL AND 7. ADD PERFUME TO MAIN VESSEL.
COCAMIDE MEA IN A JACKETED SIDE 8. ADJUST PH WITH CITRIC ACID
VESSEL. HEAT TO 70-75C. DISSOLVED IN WATER.
3. WHEN BOTH PHASES ARE AT 70- 9. CONTINUE COOLING TO 35 C.
75C, ADD THE OIL PHASE TO THE
WATER PHASE WITH
HOMOGENIZATION TO FORM AN
EMULSION.
4. WHEN THE EMULSION HAS FORMED,
COMMENCE COOLING TO 40C, WITH
PADDLE STIRRING.
 HAIR CONDITIONING
MOUSSE
REPRESENTS ESSENTIALLY
A STYLING PRODUCT

1. POLYMER VC 713
2. MULGOFEN ON 870
3. CATIONIC EMULSION
EX. CTAC
 HAIR CONDITIONING
MOUSSE
EVALUATION OF CONDITIONERS
1. HAIR TEST SWATCHES CAN BE ASSESSED IN-VITRO CAN
BE EASILY USED IN-VIVO.
2. CONDITIONER’S EFFECT ON STATIC ELECTRIFICATION
OF DRY HAIR VALVE VOLTMETER CAN BE IN-VITRO OR IN-
VIVO
3. GLOSS OR LUSTRE IN-VITRO AND IN-VIVO
4. TEXTURE AND SOFTNESS MAY BE IN-VITRO OR IN-VIVO
5. CONTROL AND MANAGEABILITY BEST ASSESSED IN-
VIVO
 STYLING Back to Agenda Page

PRODUCTS

SETTING LOTIONS
TRADITIONAL SETTING LOTIONS ARE
ETHANOL/WATER MIXTURES IN WHICH
POLYMERIC MATERIALS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED.

SETTING LOTIONS DO NOT WORK BY STICKING

HAIR FIBERS TOGETHER, BUT BY COATING EACH
HAIR FIBER, CREATING GREATER INTER FIBER
FRICTION AND REDUCING MOISTURE UPTAKE,
THUS CONFERRING GREATER CONTROL TO THE
HAIR.
 STYLING Back to Agenda Page

PRODUCTS

SETTING LOTIONS
1. VINYL ACETATE
COPOLYMERS
2. ETHOXYLATED
FATTY ALCOHOL

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STYLING MOUSSE
LIGHTER ALTERNATIVE TO GELS AND CREAMS.

THE ABOVE FORMULA CAN BE USED AS AN AID TO

PRODUCING ROLLER CURLS OR FOR BLOW DRYING.
BOTH PROCESSES INVOLVE APPLYING THE PRODUCT
TO 'TOWEL-DRIED' HAIR, BUT BLOW-DRYING INVOLVES
SIMULTANEOUS USE OF HEAT AND STYLING WITH
BRUSH OR COMB.

DISCHARGED FROM ITS CONTAINER BY A MIXTURE OF

BUTANE AND PROPANE PROPELLANT

THE PROPELLANT DROPLETS RAPIDLY EXPAND TO

FORM A CHARACTERISTIC FOAM.
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STYLING GEL
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STYLING GEL
INGREDIENTS:
1. CARBOMERS
2. SODIUM HYDROXIDE
OTHER INGREDIENTS:
3. PROPYLENE GLYCOL = 'WET LOOK'
4. SILICONE = GLOSS AND CONDITION
5. PANTHENOL = CONDITION AND
MOISTURIZING.
HAIRSPRAYS

●PACKAGING:
-AEROSOL
-NON-AEROSOL
●AEROSOL SPRAY- CONVENTIONALLY
FORMULATED TO PROVIDE VARIOUS
STRENGTHS OF HOLD FROM NORMAL TO
MAXIMUM.
●PARTS:
-PROPELLANT - PROVIDES PRESSURE
-VALVE
-ACTUATORS
THE AEROSOL HAIRSPRAY SHOULD BE HAIRSPRAYS
HELD AT A DISTANCE OF APPROX.
20CM FROM HAIR TO ALLOW
SATISFACTORY EVEN COVERAGE.
WHEN THE DROPLETS ARRIVE ON THE
HAIR MOST OF THE PROPELLANT HAS
BEEN LOST THROUGH EVAPORATION.
IF THEY ARE NOT SPREAD EFFICIENTLY
THEY WILL BIND ADJACENT HAIR
FIBRES BY 'BEADS' OF POLYMER.
THE FORMER EFFECT IS KNOWN AS
'SPOT WELDING' AND THE LATTER AS
'SEAM WELDING'
 IDEAL HAIRSPRAY: HAIRSPRAYS
1. HAS A RELATIVELY FINE SPRAY
2. IT SHOULD GIVE WHOLE-HEAD
COVERAGE QUICKLY, THUS THE SPRAY
PATTERN SHOULD BE WIDE-ANGLED.
3. DRYING TIME SHOULD BE RELATIVELY
RAPID.
4. THE DRIED SPRAY SHOULD NOT BE
TACKY ON THE HAIR, NOR SHOULD IT
BECOME TACKY WITH EXPOSURE TO
HIGH HUMIDITY.
5. IT SHOULD BE EASILY REMOVABLE BY
BRUSHING OR SHAMPOOING.
HAIRSPRAYS
 HAIRSPRAY FORMULATIONS
●CONTAIN A HAIR-CONTROL POLYMER WHICH IS NEUTRALIZED WITH AN
AMINO ALCOHOL, AMP, TO ENSURE THAT THE SPRAY RESIDUES CAN BE
REMOVED MORE EASILY DURING SHAMPOOING.
●DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL
● THE MAIN DISADVANTAGE OF THE PUMP-DRIVEN PRODUCT IS THAT A
COARSER, WETTER SPRAY IS PRODUCED.
● DME (DIMETHYL ETHER) IS A MORE POLAR PROPELLANT THAN THE
HYDROCARBONS, AND CAN BE USED WITH AQUEOUS-BASED FORMULA.
● IF DME IS TO HAVE CONSIDERATION IN A HAIRSPRAY CONTEXT, THEN
THE CHOSEN RESIN MUST ALSO BE COMPATIBLE WITH WATER.
 MANUFACTURE
1. THE ALCOHOL IS ADDED TO THE MIXING VESSEL.
2.THE RESIN IS ADDED TO THE ALCOHOL AND MIXED
UNTIL ALL THE SOLID HAS DISSOLVED.
3.THE NEUTRALIZER IS ADDED TO THE MIXING VESSEL
AND MIXED FOR APPROXIMATELY TEN MINUTES.
4. DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL, PERFUME AND ANY
OTHER ADDITIVES ARE ADDED AND MIXED UNTIL THE
PRODUCT IS HOMOGENEOUS AND CLEAR.


HAIRDRESSINGS
MAJOR CATEGORIES:
1. BRILLIANTINES 2. EMULSIONS
A.JELLY -QUITE STABLE UNTIL RUBBED BRISKLY, WHEN IT BREAKS,
B.POMADE GIVING RISE TO FREED DROPLETS OF WATER.
C.LIQUID -THE WATER ACTS AS A GROOMING AID AND REDUCES
D.WAX GREASINESS OF THE PRODUCT.
-THE PARAFFIN WAX IS ALSO AN IMPORTANT CONSTITUENT,
BUT IT IS POSSIBLE TO REPLACE THIS WITH MICROCRYSTALLINE
WAX.

3. AEROSOL HAIR DRESSINGS

-DESIGNED FOR MALE USE AND HAVE A LOWER POLYMER
CONCENTRATIONS THAN THEIR FEMALE COUNTERPART
-PEG 400 AND PEG LAURATE WILL ALLOW SOME RE-GROOMABILITY.
 HAIR-CARE PRODUCTS WITH
CHEMICAL MECHANISMS
PERMANENT WAVING
2 STAGES:
1. THERE IS A REDUCTION OR BREAKING OF THE DISULFIDE BONDS.
AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE - CHEMICAL THAT BREAKS THE DISULFIDE
BONDS, BY BREAKING AND REFORMING THESE DISULFIDE BONDS, IT
ALLOWS US TO REARRANGE THE WAVE PATTERN OF THE HAIR.
ADVANTAGE:
1.THE VISCOUS VEHICLE MODERATES THE REACTION RATE OF THE
THIOGLYCOLATE WITH THE HAIR
2.IN THE EMULSION FORM, THE APPLICATION OF THE PRODUCT
ONTO THE HAIR IS SAFER AND MORE CONTROLLABLE.
2. NEUTRALIZATION OR OXIDATION PROCESS WHICH RE-FORMS
THE BONDS IN DIFFERENT CONFIGURATION.
NEUTRALIZER FIXES HAIR IN A NEW WAY. IT IS APPLIED TO THE
HAIR FOLLICLES TO DEFINE A NEW SHAPE.
NEUTRALIZER REFORMS THE DISULFIDE BONDS OF THE HAIR
AND SETS THE NEW CURL PATTERN.
 HAIR STRAIGHTENERS

STRAIGHTENING CHANGES THE HAIR STRANDS’

PHYSICAL SHAPE THROUGH A CHEMICAL
PROCESS
THE BREAKING AND RE-FORMING OF BONDS
PERMANENTLY REARRANGES THE INTERNAL
PROTEIN STRUCTURE.

2 STAGES:
1.APPLICATION OF THE RELAXER
2.APPLYING A NEUTRALIZING SHAMPOO
TRADITIONAL HAIR-STRENGTHENING
PRODUCTS:
A.CAUSTIC-LYE FORMULAE
1.APPLY A REGULAR SHAMPOO FOLLOWED BY COMBING IN A
PETROLEUM JELLY PREPARATION.
2.APPLY THE CAUSTIC LYE PREPARATION WORKING QUICKLY
TO KEEP PROCESSING TIME TO A MINIMUM.
3.TREAT WITH A NEUTRALIZING SOLUTION.
4.TREAT THE HAIR WITH A POMADE IF DESIRED - SHAMPOO
AS NECESSARY WITH A REGULAR SHAMPOO.
 B. THIOGLYCOLLATE HAIR
STRAIGHTENERS
C. POST-CONDITIONING TREATMENTS
-THE HAIR RELAXER TREATMENT HAS A DEFATTING ACTION.
-CANEROW
-NATURAL OILS SUCH AS COCONUT OIL OR SHEA BUTTER
WERE USED TO MAINTAIN SCALP SUPPLENESS DURING THE
TEASING, STRETCHING PROCESS AS THE HAIR IS PLAITED.