Kayak Maintenance and Repair: Southern Nevada Paddling Club
Kayak Maintenance and Repair: Southern Nevada Paddling Club
Kayak Maintenance and Repair: Southern Nevada Paddling Club
I. Southern Nevada Paddling Club KAYAK INSPECTION Fiberglass, Kevlar and Plastic
opposite side of bulkhead or hull for water drops. Cockpit Coaming Cracks and chips. Hanging Seats 1. Elliptical screw holes. 2. Loose or worn screws. 3. Worn seat parts. Foot Braces and Rails loose screws and wear Deck Rigging weakness, wear, or damage General Hardware loose or damaged. Carrying Handles & Loops - wear or damage. Painters (Bowline) - wear or damage. The following should be fully inspected once each year. Visual inspection of all surface items every three months. A. Hatch covers Gaskets and rubber seals. B. Rudder Cables 1. Remove screws at cable ends inspect cable and screws for wear. 2. Check for frayed sections along cable length. C. Rudder Assembly - Remove Screws and inspect all parts for wear. D. Bulk Heads 1. Visual Loose or cracked caulking 2. Water leak test - pour 1 quart to gallon of water into section. Place kayak at an angle so water is against the bulkhead, then inspect
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A. Hull Maintenance 1. Cleaning - Use a mild soap and water. 2. Hard water stains White vinegar and water solution, 30 percent vinegar to 70 percent water. Place solution in a spray bottle and apply on small area, wipe clean with paper towel or soft cloth. 3. Waxing/Polish Use a good quality marine Wax/Polish. 4. Ultraviolet (UV) protection spray deck and hull with 303 Protectant. This product is also good for spray skirts, PFDs and etc. 5. UV Hull Damage Use a rubbing compound to remove chalky surface. Then apply a Marine polish. Finish by applying a coat of 303 Protectant. B. General Maintenance 1. Clean Foot Pedal/Slide Bar Track with high-pressure hose. Wipe Track and slide bar with paper towel or cloth. Caution: metal parts may have sharp edges. Apply Tri-Flow or Super Lube dry lubricant on Foot Pedal/Slide Bar Track. 2. Clean cockpit interior with high-pressure hose. Remove all mud and small pebbles. 3. Every two to three trips lubricate rudder assembly.
III.
A. Bulkhead Caulking 1. Remove all old caulking (clean and repair one side at a time). Clean surface with scraper, sand paper, then alcohol. 2. Use 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, 10 fl oz. Use a caulking gun and apply in sections of approximately six to eight inches. Place kayak at a slight angle so adhesive flows towards bulkhead. Adhesive tends to cold flows, rotate hull to control direction of flow. When first section is stable complete caulking of the next section. This material takes approximately 48 hrs to completely cure. 3. When the first side has fully cured, then repair the opposite side of Bulkhead. B. Rudder Cables 1. Apply a light coating of Tri-Flow or Super Lube dry lubricant (do not use a silicone base lubricant), use a Q-tip or small rag, to areas of the cable that makes contact with metal parts or cable channels. C. Foot Pedal and Rails 1. Use masking tape and tape a double thick layer of paper towel on the hull under each end of the Foot Pedal/Slide Bar and Track. This will catch dirt and lubricant drops. Author: Milton D. Rasmussen Page 1 of 5 Revised: September 7, 2002
Recommended book for repair and Maintenance: The Essential Outdoor Gear Manual, Annie Getchell, Ragged Mountain Press.
E. Hanging Seat 1. Remove seat and inspect screw holes. If holes are elliptical there are three methods for repair. a) First Clean and fill hole with an epoxy Place a washer on both sides, and then patch, then redrill the hole. install a screw through the center hole, b) Second - Drill a slightly larger hole and which will also hold the seat. insert a metal sleeve (spacer) of correct size c) Third -Drill a new mounting hole in a and length, with a hole through its center. different place if necessary. F. Hatch Covers 1. Cleaning - Use a mild soap and water to clean hatch cover and around lip of hatch (coaming). 2. Spray Armor All on all rubber or neoprene hatch covers parts (not on Kayak hull or deck). Wipe of excess with a paper towel or cloth.
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This section is limited to Gelcoat repairs (surface and cosmetic) and will not cover extensive repair of hull penetration or fracture of Fiberglass or Kevlar materials. It is recommended that the manufacturer repair hull penetration damage.
Page 2 of 5
Recommended book for repair and Maintenance: The Essential Outdoor Gear Manual, Annie Getchell, Ragged Mountain Press.
Gelcoat Repair Surface Preparation Remove any cracked or flaking gel coat material. Lightly sand repair area to remove fading and oxidized materials. Bevel edge of scratch or gouge to improve adhesion of repair epoxy patch. Clean the patch area with Denatured Alcohol. Be careful not to touch work area with bare hands. Epoxy and Color Test Use a plastic coffee can lid or similar plastic piece to mix epoxy material on. Place a suitable amount of epoxy and hardener on plastic surface and mix. Be sure to completely mix all material. Separate the mixed epoxy material into three equal parts. a) Apply the colored pigment onto one sample section. Add pigment until color match appears to be correct and of the recommended amount. Mix completely. Spread out one edge of the sample until it is thin. Clean spatula. b) On the second test sample section apply approximately 20 percent more pigment than the first test sample. Mix completely. Spread out one edge of the sample until it is thin. Clean spatula c) Leave the out the third sample section without any pigment. Allow all test samples to cure. Every few minutes test the surface of all epoxy samples for the following: a) The usable work time. The point where the material can not be applied or spread. b) The cure time. Where the material is hard and can be sanded or polished. After the samples have completely cured. Check manufactures recommendation. a) Check the unpigmented sample for hardness and flexibility. It should be hard and brittle. b) The first pigmented test sample should also be hard and brittle. You may find that the color sample may have very little color in the thin section of the sample. c) The second pigmented test sample should also be hard and brittle (sample may be slightly more flexible than fists sample). You will find that this color sample will have improved color density in the thin section of the sample. If the sample is soft and flexible then there is too much pigment or not enough hardener in the epoxy. Select the best sample for use in the final repair.
C. Epoxy Hull Repair After you have identified the epoxy mix and color ratio; mix a suitable amount of material to perform the hull repair. Do not mix too large of an epoxy batch for use. Note: a large batch of mixed epoxy generates heat, reduce work time, Author: Milton D. Rasmussen Page 3 of 5 Revised: September 7, 2002
Recommended book for repair and Maintenance: The Essential Outdoor Gear Manual, Annie Getchell, Ragged Mountain Press.
Finally sand with 600-grit paper with backing pad. Use rubbing compound to finish surface. Polish as needed.
E. Repair Through Holes in Deck Use a 60-degree screw camber tool on the front and backside of hole. Do not go very deep. Note: This will help to conceal the repair and prevent the repair plug from moving. Place a piece of masking tape on the underside of the hole. Make sure that epoxy will not flow through the patch. Inject material in to the hole until full. Perform epoxy repair as described in the above article. Finish the top surface as described in the above article. The surface underneath only requires the removal of any sharp edges.
VI.
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B. Transport Tips 1. Do not tighten holding straps excessively. This can cause Gelcoat cracking and excessive pressure on fabric lamination can cause material to delaminate. 2. Use a bowline tied to car bumper or other car parts to reduce bow lifting. On long kayaks also use a stern line to prevent kayak rocking and reduce hull damage. Also on long trips use a stern line on all kayaks. 3. When carrying more than one kayak tie a line between the kayaks, both bow and stern, this reduces rotation by side wind thrusts. 4. Stow all handles and deck line ends to prevent damage to kayak deck. Wind may cause banging of parts on the deck surface. 5. Lock down the rudder in the stowed position to prevent vibration during transport.
VII.
This section is also limited to surface repair and maintenance of plastic hulls. Hull penetration repairs should be performed by the manufacture. Author: Milton D. Rasmussen Page 4 of 5 Revised: September 7, 2002
Recommended book for repair and Maintenance: The Essential Outdoor Gear Manual, Annie Getchell, Ragged Mountain Press.
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X. EMERGENCY REPAIR KIT 1. 3M Duct Tape, type 131 (1.88 in wide by 10 yd.) and Epoxy stick or putty (Primex of California, Ding Stick Kit). 2. Alcohol swabs - individually prepackaged 3. Spare screws, washers nuts and bolts1. 4. Screw drivers Phillips and common blades, as required for your kayak. 5. Vice-grip pliers and common pliers 6. Multitool knife 7. Spare rudder cable and swages. 8. Rudder Cable cutting tool. 9. Bungee cord 10. Galvanized wire
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11. Adjustable wrenches or set of open-end wrenches, as required for your kayak. 12. Rope, or 3/8 inch, 20 ft long. 13. Sand Paper 320 or 380 grit 14. Sharp Knife.
Select size and type to fit your specific kayak. Author: Milton D. Rasmussen Page 5 of 5
Recommended book for repair and Maintenance: The Essential Outdoor Gear Manual, Annie Getchell, Ragged Mountain Press.