2022 2023 Ducati Monster 937 Plus

Symbols - Abbreviations - References
To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which maximum care is required, as
well as practical advice or information.
Pay attention to the meaning of the symbols since they serve to avoid repeating technical concepts or safety warnings throughout the
text. The symbols should therefore be seen as real "reminders".
Please refer to this page whenever in doubt as to their meaning.
The terms right-hand and left-hand refer to the motorcycle viewed from the riding position.
Warning
Failure to comply with these instructions may put you at risk, and could lead to severe injury or even death.
Important
Failure to follow the instructions in text marked with this symbol can lead to serious damage to the motorcycle and its components.
Note
This symbol indicates additional useful information for the current operation.
Disposal
This symbol supplies information on the disposal of a substance/material.
Product specifications
Symbols in the diagram show the type of threadlocker, sealant or lubricant to be used at the points indicated. The table below shows the
symbols used and the specifications of the various products.
Symbol Specifications Recommended

product
LOCTITE
LOCK 1 Low-strength threadlocker. Loctite 222
LOCK 2 Medium-strength threadlocker, compatible with oil. Loctite 243 (or THREE
BOND TB1324)
LOCK 3 High-strength threadlocker for threaded parts. Loctite 270
LOCK 4 Surface sealant resistant to high mechanical stress and solvents. Resists high temperatures Loctite 510
(up to 200 °C) and pressures up to 350 bar; fills gaps up to 0.4 mm.
LOCK 5 Permanent adhesive for free sliding cylindrical couplings or threaded couplings on Loctite 648
mechanical parts, coaxial parts. High resistance to mechanical stress and solvents. Loctite 128455
Temperature range: ‑55 to 175 °C. (ex. 648 BV)
product
LOCK 6 Pipe sealant for pipes and medium to large fittings. For water and gases (except oxygen). Loctite 577
Maximum filling capacity: 0.40 mm (diameter clearance).
LOCK 7 Instant adhesive for rubber and plastics with elastomer charged ethyl base. Loctite 480
LOCK 8 High-strength retaining compound for threaded parts, bearings, bushes, splines and keys. Loctite 601 (As an
Operating temperature range: ‑55 to 150 °C. alternative THREE
BOND TB1378B)
LOCK 9 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 406
LOCK 10 Product for metal parts to seal and lock freely sliding cylindrical couplings or threaded Loctite 128443 (former
couplings. Resistant to high mechanical stress and high temperature, excellent resistance to 648 AV)
solvents and chemical attack.
LOCK 11 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401
LOCK 12 Instant adhesive gel offering tensile/shear strength. Loctite 454 gel
OTHER SEALING AGENTS
DUCATI sealing compound. THREE BOND 1215
Sealing compound THREE BOND 1207B
One-component sealing compound SIKAFLEX 221
Exhaust pipe sealing paste. Self-sealing paste hardens when heated and resists Holts Firegum
temperatures exceeding 1000 °C.
product
Sealing compound. BOSTIK clear universal

silicone
Sealing compound. Ser Sil Silver
VEHICLE/ENGINE GREASE
GREASE Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania R3

A
GREASE Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high temperature resistant. SHELL Retinax HDX2
B or SHELL Gadius S2
V220 AD 2
GREASE Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged mechanical stress. Temperature range: SHELL Retinax LX2
C -10 to 110 °C.
GREASE Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and waterproofing properties. SHELL Retinax HD2
D
GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB 05

E
GREASE Grease (Vehicle): OPTIMOL -

F PASTE WHITE T
(Engine): PANKL —
PLB03
GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB07

G
GREASE Grease KLÜBER STABURAGS

H NBU 30 PTM
GREASE Copper grease CUPRUM 320

I
GREASE Grease FLUOROCARBON GEL

L 880
GREASE Grease ROCOL — DRY MOLY

M PASTE
product
GREASE Grease AKRAPOVIC —

N CERAMIC ANTI SEIZE
PASTE
PROTECTIVE PRODUCTS
Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation and provides SHELL Advance
excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent. Contact Cleaner
Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation and provides SHELL Advance
excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent. Contact Cleaner
Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation and provides Arexons TL246
excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent.
Spray used to protect electric systems. Eliminates moisture and condensation and provides Nyogel 760G
excellent corrosion resistance. Water repellent.
LUBRICANT FOR RUBBER PARTS
Emulsion for lubrication of rubber. P 80
Concentrated lubricant for tyre installation. Michelin
Denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol
Protection lubricant emulsion. KLUBERPLUS S

06/100
THERMAL COMPOUND
Thermal compound. HTC Electrolube
LUBRICANTS FOR MECHANICAL ELEMENTS
Engine oil (for characteristics see Fuel, lubricants and other fluids). SHELL Advance 4T
Ultra
SAE 80-90 gear oil or special products for chains with O‑rings. SHELL Advance Chain
or Advance Teflon
Chain
product
Dry lubricant, polymerising on contact with air. Molykote D321R

Molykote M55 Plus
Lubricant for mechanical elements. Rothen extra - Additive
Lubricant for mechanical elements. Castor oil
DEGREASING AGENTS
All-purpose degreaser and cleaner. Arexons Fulcron
Degreaser for Pankl connecting rods (if any). Meta Clean 366
Degreasing agent. Lochim Solfast
Degreasing agent. Deta Blu
Degreasing agent. Saga Special
VARIOUS PRODUCTS
DOT4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL Advance Brake

DOT4
Anti-freeze (nitride, amine and phosphate free) 30 to 40% + water. SHELL Advance
coolant or Glycoshell
Acronyms and abbreviations used in the manual
ABS
Antilock Braking System
BBS
Black Box System
CAN
Controller Area Network
DDA
DUCATI Data Acquisition
DSS
DUCATI Skyhook Suspension
DSB
Dashboard
DTC
DUCATI Traction Control
HF
Hands Free
ECU
Engine Control Unit
Technological Dictionary
Riding Mode
The rider can choose from three different preset bike configurations (Riding Modes) and pick the one that best suits his/her riding style
or ground conditions. The Riding Modes allow the user to instantly change the engine power delivery (ENGINE), the ABS settings, the
DTC settings.
Available Riding Modes: Sport, Touring and Urban.
Within every Riding Mode, the rider can customise any settings.
Ducati Traction Control (DTC)

The Ducati Traction Control system (DTC) supervises the rear wheel slipping control and settings vary through eight different levels that
are programmed to offer a different tolerance level to rear wheel slipping. Each Riding Mode features a pre-set intervention level. Level
eight indicates system intervention whenever a slight slipping is detected, while level one is for very expert riders because it is less
sensitive to slipping and intervention is hence softer.
Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)

The ABS system fitted on this vehicle is a system that actuates combined braking with anti lift-up function for the rear wheel so as to
guarantee not only a reduced stopping distance, but also a higher stability under braking. The ABS features 3 levels, one associated to
each Riding Mode.
Ride by Wire (RbW)

The Ride by Wire system is the electronic device that controls throttle opening and closing.
Since there is no mechanical connection between the throttle handgrip and the throttle body, the engine control unit can adjust power
delivery by directly affecting throttle opening angle. The Ride by Wire system allows you to obtain different power level and delivery
according to the selected Riding Mode (Engine), and even to control the rear wheel slipping (DTC).
General safety rules
Carbon monoxide
When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, make sure that the working area is well-ventilated. Never
run the engine indoors.
Warning
Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness or even death if inhaled.
Run the engine outdoors or, if working indoors, use an exhaust gas extraction system.
Fuel
Always make sure the working area is well ventilated. Keep any sources of ignition, such as cigarettes, open flames or sparks, well
away from working area and fuel storage area.
Warning
Fuel is highly flammable and can explode under certain conditions. Keep away from children.
Hot parts
Warning
The engine and exhaust parts become hot when the motorcycle engine is running and will stay hot for some time after the engine has
been stopped. Wear heat-resistant gloves before handling these components or allow the engine and exhaust system to cool down
before proceeding.
Used engine oil
Warning
Wear suitable gloves to work with engine oil. Keep away from children.
Brake dust
Warning
Never clean the brake assembly using compressed air or a dry brush.
Brake fluid
Warning
Spilling brake fluid onto plastic, rubber or painted parts of the motorcycle may cause damages. Protect these parts with a clean shop
cloth before proceeding to service the system. Keep away from children.
Coolant
Engine coolant contains ethylene glycol, which may ignite under particular conditions, producing invisible flames. Although the flames
from burning ethylene glycol are not visible, they are still capable of causing severe burns.
Warning
Take care not to spill engine coolant on the exhaust system or engine parts. These parts may be hot and ignite the coolant, which will
subsequently burn with invisible flames. Coolant (ethylene glycol) is irritant and poisonous when ingested. Keep away from children.
Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. The coolant is under pressure and will cause severe burns.
The cooling fan operates automatically: keep hands well clear and make sure your clothing does not snag on the fan.
Battery
Warning
The battery gives off explosive gases; never cause sparks or allow naked flames and cigarettes near the battery. When charging the
battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated.
General maintenance instructions
Useful tips
Ducati recommends you to follow the instructions below in order to prevent problems and obtain the best result:
- when diagnosing faults, primary consideration should always be given to what the customer reports about motorcycle operation
since this information can highlight faults; your questions to the customer concerning symptoms of the fault should be aimed at
clarifying the problem;
- diagnose the problem systematically and accurately before proceeding further. This manual provides the theoretical background for
troubleshooting; this basis must be combined with personal experience and attendance at periodic training courses held by Ducati;
- repair work should be planned carefully in advance to prevent any unnecessary downtime, for example obtaining the required
spare parts or preparing the necessary tools, etc.;
- limit the number of operations needed to access the part to be repaired. Note that the disassembly procedures in this manual
describe the most efficient way to reach the part to be repaired.
General advice on repair work
- Always use top quality tools. When lifting the motorcycle, only use devices that fully comply with the relevant European directives.
- When working on the motorcycle, always keep the tools within reach, ideally in the order required, and never put them on the
motorcycle or in hard-to-reach or inaccessible places.
- The workplace must be kept clean and tidy at all times.
- Always replace gaskets, sealing rings and split pins with new parts.
- When loosening or tightening nuts or screws, always start with the largest or start from the centre; tighten nuts and screws to the
specified torque working in a cross pattern.
- Always mark any parts and positions which might easily be confused upon reassembly.
- Use exclusively Ducati original spare parts and the recommended brands of lubricants.
- Use special tools where specified.
- Ducati Technical Bulletins often contain updated versions of the service procedures described in this manual. Check the latest
Bulletins for details.
Identification data
Each Ducati motorcycle is identified by two numbers, one for the frame and one for the engine.
Note
Please quote these numbers, which identify the motorcycle model, when ordering spare parts.
DATA STAMPED ON THE FRAME
DMH
DMH
EEC BEL USA JAP AUS TWN KOR P.GULF RUS ESP ESP 70 kW ESP 35 kW
Model/Version
ZDMMAMDT? ZDM1M00T?
Monster ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM4M00ES#B ZDM5M70ES#B ZDM6M35
#B #B
Monster ZDMMAMDT? ZDM1M00T?

ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM1M00AA#B ZDM4M00ES#B ZDM5M70ES#B ZDM6M35
PLUS #B #B
DMT - DAFRA
DMT - DAFRA Model/Version EEC THAI CHN
Monster ML01M00AA#T ML01M00AA#T ML01TBFT?#T??????
Monster PLUS ML01M00AA#T ML01M00AA#T ML01TBFT?#T??????
Key
Example:
1 2 3 4 5
ZDM 1M00AA N B ??????
1 Manufacturer
2 Type - identical for all models
3 Variant
4 Model Year: M for 2021 models, N for 2022 models
5 Model Year:
6 Manufacturing facility
7 Progressive serial no.
DATA STAMPED ON ENGINE

DMH
Model/Version ESP 70 ESP 35

EEC BEL USA JAP AUS TWN KOR P.GULF RUS ESP 35 KW 70 KW
kW kW
ZDM ZDM ZDM ZDM

ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N
ZDMMAMDT?#B 937W4S 937W4S 937W4S 937W4S
Monster DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT
AMD# DPT DPT DPT DPT
937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N
937W4S 937W4S 937W4S 937W4S
ZDM ZDM ZDM ZDM

ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N ZDM937W4N
Monster ZDMMAMDT?#B 937W4S 937W4S 937W4S 937W4S
DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT DPT
PLUS AMD# DPT DPT DPT DPT
937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N 937W4N
937W4S 937W4S 937W4S 937W4S
DMT - DAFRA
DMT - DAFRA Model/Version EEC THAI CHN
1803 - Monster ML01M00AA#T ZDMorDPT 937W4N ML01M00AA#T ZDMorDPT 937W4N ML01TBFT?#T?????? DPTTBF*000001*
1803 - Monster + ML01M00AA#T ZDMorDPT 937W4N ML01M00AA#T ZDMorDPT 937W4N ML01TBFT?#T?????? DPTTBF*000001*
Note
The ZDM stamping indicates the manufacturer Ducati Motor Holding whereas the MLO stamping indicates the manufacturer Ducati Motor Thailand.
Key
Example:
1 2 3
ZDM or ML0 T 937W4N ??????
1 Engine type
2 Model Year: M for 2021 models, N for 2022 models
3 Progressive production no.
General
OVERALL DIMENSIONS
Reference MONSTER 937 MONSTER 937 Plus MONSTER 937 LOW Version
Total length 2129 mm (83.82 in) 2129 mm (83.82 in) 2129 mm (83.82 in)
Max. width (at rear-view mirrors) 868 mm (34.17 in) 868 mm (34.17 in) 868 mm (34.17 in)
Total height (at rear-view 1236 mm (48.66 in) 1236 mm (48.66 in) 1216 mm (47.87 in)
mirrors)
Handlebar height 1058 mm (41.65 in) 1058 mm (41.65 in) 1038 mm (40.87 in)
Seat height (standard / 820 mm (32.28 in) / 800 mm 820 mm (32.28 in) / 800 mm 800 mm (31.5 in) / 775 mm
performance) (31.5 in) (31.5 in) (30.51 in)
Minimum ground clearance 202 mm (7.95 in) 202 mm (7.95 in) 182 mm (7.17 in)
Front footpeg height 362 mm (14.25 in) 362 mm (14.25 in) 342 mm (13.46 in)
Rear footpeg height 530 mm (20.87 in) 530 mm (20.87 in) 510 mm (20.08 in)
Wheelbase 1474 mm (58.03 in) 1474 mm (58.03 in) 1474 mm (58.03 in)
Headlight fairing height - 1076 mm (42.36 in) 1056 mm (42.36 in)
Reference Technical specifications
FRAME
Type Aluminium alloy Front Frame
Steering head angle 24°
Steering angle (per side) 36° LH side / 36° RH side
Trail 93 mm (3.66 in)
FRONT SUSPENSION
Front suspension KAYABA hydraulic upside-down fork

Leg diameter: Ø 43 mm (1.69 in)
Front wheel travel 130 mm (5.12 in)
REAR SUSPENSION
Rear suspension Progressive with KAYABA monoshock, with preload adjustment
Suspension travel 61.5 mm
Wheel travel 140 mm (5.51 in)
FRONT WHEEL
Front wheel rim Cast in light alloy

Front wheel rim size MT3.50x17"
Rear tyre size 120/70 ZR17 M/C 58W
Type of tyre Radial, tubeless
REAR WHEEL
Rear wheel rim Cast in light alloy
Rear wheel rim size MT5.50x17"
Rear tyre size 180 / 55 ZR17 M/C 73W
Type of tyre Radial, tubeless
FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM
Front brake With drilled steel dual-disc

M4 .32 4-piston monoblock radial mount calliper with ABS cornering
REAR BRAKE SYSTEM
Rear brake With fixed drilled steel disc

Brembo 2-piston floating calliper with ABS cornering
ENGINE
Type 11° Testastretta, 90° V2, 4 valves per cylinder, desmodromic timing system,
liquid cooling
Bore 94 mm (3.70 in)
Stroke 67.5 mm (2.66 in)
Displacement 937 cu. cm(57.18 cu. in)
Compression ratio 13.3 ± 0.5:1
Timing system Toothed belt type with two overhead camshafts;

Desmodromic, 4 valves per cylinder and eight rocker arms
Lubrication system Forced lubrication by pump without oil cooler

Forced with Ducati gear pump with oil cooler (Oil pipes with nipples, twin seal
unions)
Oil pump type Lobe type, with bypass valve
Cooling system Liquid cooling with thermostat
Air filter One filtering element
Crankshaft type One-piece
Clutch Hydraulically-controlled slipper/self-servo wet multi-plate clutch
Clutch control Hydraulically-controlled
Max. power at crankshaft Regulation (EU) no. 134/2014 82 kW/111 HP at 9,250rpm

Annex X
Max. torque at crankshaft Regulation (EU) no. 134/2014 93 Nm/9.5 Kgm at 6500rpm
Annex X
Max. rotation speed 10200 rpm
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Exhaust system type Pre-Silencer and double tailpipe
Oxygen sensors no. 2
Catalytic converters no. 1

Colours
AVIATOR GREY
Fairing
Aviator Grey Primer, supplier Palinal, code 87312744;
Aviator Grey Basecoat, supplier Palinal, code 928554;
2K matte 10 Gloss Clearcoat, supplier Palinal, code 92312210.
Monocoque Grey frame and swinging arm

Monocoque Grey, supplier INVER SPA, code 86176.
Racing Red Wheel Rims

Primer Interpon A4700 - Powder Primer Grey, supplier Akzo Nobel, code EP050V;
Basecoat Enkote Ducati White Primer, supplier Akzo Nobel, code 43NK0002;
Clearcoat Enkote Racing Red, supplier Akzo Nobel, code BR-TCB-005AE.
DARK STEALTH
Fairing
Dark Stealth Primer, supplier Palinal, code 87312744;
Black Stealth Basecoat (Black 94), supplier Palinal, code 929.R223;
2K matte Clearcoat, supplier Palinal, code 9231.2176.

Wheel Rims, Glossy Black

Primer - Power Primer, supplier Peter Lacke, code P09809-C;
Topcoat Pehadur Einbrennlack, supplier Peter Lacke, code VPCH03250.
RED
Fairing
Red Dual Primer VM, supplier Lechler, code LDS20067;
Acriplast Red stoner SF Varnish, supplier Lechler, code LMC06017;

Wheel Rims, Glossy Black

Primer - Power Primer, supplier Peter Lacke, code P09809-C;
Topcoat Pehadur Einbrennlack, supplier Peter Lacke, code VPCH03250.
Transmission
Clutch Hydraulically-controlled slipper/self-servo wet multi-plate clutch
Clutch control Hydraulic
Gearbox 6-speed
Front chain sprocket/clutch gearwheel ratio (primary drive) 33/61
Gearbox output sprocket/rear chain sprocket ratio (final drive) 15/43
Drive ratio 1.85:1
Gearbox type With spur gears
Transmission Gear ratios
1st 37/15
2nd 30/17
3rd 28/20
4th 26/22
5th 24/23
6th 23/24
Drive chain Make Regina
Type 520 ZRDK
No. of links 106
Chain tension 51 ÷ 53 mm (2.00 - 2.09 in)

Timing system/valves
Reference Assembly value Checking clearance
Timing diagram With 1 mm valve lift
Intake Opening 4°±3° B.T.D.C.

Closing 52°±3° A.B.D.C.
Exhaust Opening 63°±3° B.B.D.C.

Closing 7°±3° A.T.D.C.
Intake valve diameter 35.5 mm (1.40 in)
Exhaust valve diameter 28.8 mm (1.13 in)
Valve clearance
Opening rocker arm - intake 0.13 ÷ 0.18 mm (0.005 in ÷ 0.007 in) 0.10÷0.25 mm (0.004 ÷ 0.009 in)
Opening rocker arm - exhaust 0.13 ÷ 0.18 mm (0.005 in ÷ 0.007 in) 0.10 ÷ 0.25 mm (0.004 in ÷ 0.009 in)
Closing rocker arm - intake 0.05 ÷ 0.10 mm (0.002 in ÷ 0.004 in) 0.05 ÷ 0.15 mm (0.002 in ÷ 0.006 in)
Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0.05 ÷ 0.10 mm (0.002 in ÷ 0.004 in) 0.05 ÷ 0.15 mm (0.002 in ÷ 0.006 in)
Belt Cold tensioning Notes

status value
110 ± 5 Hz With new belt we mean a belt never fitted before.

New (Min. 105 - Max.
115)
75 ± 5 Hz Even a new belt just installed on an engine that has been started for the first time up to fan turning on has
Used (Min. 70 - Max. to be considered as used.
80)
Crankshaft
Reference Standard value Service limit
Crankshaft Oval 0.005 mm
Taper 0.005 mm
Main journal alignment 0.01 mm on diameter
MAIN JOURNAL FOR SANSERA CON-RODS
CRANKSHAFT CRANKCASE CRANKCASE HOLE SIZE SHELL SHELL THICKNESS

CRANK PIN SIZE [mm]
MARKING CLASS [mm] COLOUR [mm]
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷

C PURPLE
1.9680 in) 0.0785 in)
44.992÷45.000 (1.7713 ÷
A
1.7716 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷
D PURPLE
1.9289 in) 0.0785 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷

C RED
1.9680 in) 0.0787 in)
44.984÷44.992 (1.7710 ÷
B
1.7713 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷
D RED
1.9289 in) 0.0787 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷

C BLUE
1.9286 in) 0.0788 in)
44.976÷44.984 (1.7707 ÷
C
1.7710 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷
D BLUE
1.9289 in) 0.0788 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷

C YELLOW
1.9286 in) 0.0790 in)
44.968÷44.976 (1.7703 ÷
D
1.7707 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷
D YELLOW
1.9289 in) 0.0790 in)
COUPLING CLEARANCE (min÷max): 0.030÷0.068 (0.0011 ÷ 0.0026 in)
AVERAGE FAILURE VALUE OF MAIN JOURNALS: 0.040 (0.0015 in)
SANSERA CON-ROD
CRANKSHAFT CON-ROD CON-ROD BIG END

CRANK PIN SIZE [mm] SHELL COLOUR SHELL THICKNESS [mm]
MARKING CLASS SIZE [mm]
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.478÷1.483/1.482÷1.487 (0.0581 ÷

A RED/BLUE
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0583 / 0.0583 ÷ 0.0585)
41.996÷42.004 (1.6533
A
÷ 1.6537 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B RED 1.478÷1.483 (0.0581 ÷ 0.0583 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
B 41.988÷41.996 (1.6530 45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷

A BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.6537 in) ÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
SANSERA CON-ROD

45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLUE 1.482÷1.487 (0.0583 ÷ 0.0585 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.486÷1.491/1.490÷1.495 (0.0585 ÷

A YELLOW/BLACK
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0587 / 0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
41.980÷41.988 (1.6527
C
÷ 1.6530 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B YELLOW 1.486÷1.491 (0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.490÷1.495/1.494÷1.499 (0.0586 ÷

A BLACK/GREEN
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0588 / 0.0588 ÷ 0.0590 in)
41.972÷41.980 (1.6524
D
÷ 1.6527 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLACK 1.490÷1.495 (0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
AVERAGE FAILURE VALUE OF CON-RODS: 0.007 (0.0002 in)
MAIN JOURNAL FOR MAPE CON-RODS

CRANK PIN SIZE [mm]
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷

C -
1.9680 in) 0.0785 in)
44.992÷45.000 (1.7713 ÷
A
1.7716 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷
D -
1.9289 in) 0.0785 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷

C RED
1.9680 in) 0.0787 in)
44.984÷44.992 (1.7710 ÷
B
1.7713 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷
D RED
1.9289 in) 0.0787 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷

C BLUE
1.9286 in) 0.0788 in)
44.976÷44.984 (1.7707 ÷
C
1.7710 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷
D BLUE
1.9289 in) 0.0788 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷

C YELLOW
1.9286 in) 0.0790 in)
44.968÷44.976 (1.7703 ÷
D
1.7707 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷
D YELLOW
1.9289 in) 0.0790 in)
MAPE CON-ROD
MAPE CON-ROD

45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.478÷1.483/1.482÷1.487 (0.0581 ÷

A RED/BLUE
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0583 / 0.0583 ÷ 0.0585)
42.004÷42.012 (1.6537
0
÷ 1.6540 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B RED 1.478÷1.483 (0.0581 ÷ 0.0583 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷

A BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
41.996 ÷ 42.004
A
(1.6533 ÷ 1.6537 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLUE 1.482÷1.487 (0.0583 ÷ 0.0585 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724
A YELLOW/ 1.486÷1.491 (0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
÷ 1.7726 in)
41.988 ÷ 41,996
B
(1.6530 ÷ 1.6533 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷
B BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.7724 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724
A BLACK 1.490÷1.495 (0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
÷ 1.7726 in)
41.980 ÷ 41.988
C
(1.6527 ÷ 1.6530 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721 1.486÷1.491 / 1.490÷1.495 (0.0585 -
B YELLOW/BLACK
÷ 1.7724 in) 0.0587 / 0.0586 - 0.0588 in)
RUNNING-IN PERIOD at 2500 rpm
Pressure at crankshaft recess [bar] Head pressure [bar]
Min Max Min Max
5.00 (72 PSI) 9.00 (130 PSI) 0.20 (2.9 PSI) 2.00 (29 PSI)
Cylinder/piston
CYLINDER
Cylinder nominal 94 mm (3.70 in)

diameter
Max. oval 0.005
Max. taper Measure diameter (X) compared to liner Check with respect to upper
upper edge. edge:
X(A)=10 mm (0.39 in)
X(B)=50 mm (1.97 in)
X(C)=100 mm (3.94 in)
øXA≤øXB≤øXC
øXC-øXA≤0.015 mm (0.0006 in)
Diameter Section A 94.000 ÷ 94.010 mm (3.7008 in ÷ 3.7012

Section B in)
Section C 94.010 ÷ 94.020 mm (3.7012 in ÷ 3.7016
in)
94.020 ÷ 94.030 mm (3.7016 in ÷ 3.7020
in)
Piston-to-bore clearance 0.025 ÷ 0.045 mm (0.0010 in ÷ 0.0018 in)
PISTON
Nominal diameter 94 mm (3,701 in)
Diameter Section A 93.965 mm ÷ 93.975 mm

Section B (3.6994÷3.6998 in)
Section C 93.975 mm ÷ 93.985 mm
(3.6998÷3.7002 in)
93.985 mm ÷ 93.995 mm
(3.7002÷3.7006 in)
Gudgeon pin–to-piston clearance 0.014 mm (0.0006 in) 0.010 ÷ 0.018 mm (0.0004 in ÷

0.0007 in)
Nominal diameter Ø 20 mm (0,787 in)
Piston Ø 20(+ 0.015; + 0.010) mm

Ø 0.787(+ 0.0006; + 0.0004) in
Gudgeon pin Ø 20(+ 0.1; - 0.2) mm

Ø 0.787(+ 0.0039; - 0.0079) in
Gudgeon pin-to-connecting rod 0.041 mm (0.0016 in) 0.035 ÷ 0.048 mm (0.0014 in ÷

clearance 0.0019 in)
Engine cylinder compression (16 ± 1) bar 10 bar (MIN)

measured with DMT
Gearbox
Gearbox shafts End float 0.05 ÷ 0.20 mm (0.0019 ÷ 0.0078 in)
Selector drum End float 0.10 ÷ 0.40 mm (0.0039 ÷ 0.0157 in)
Gear selector fork Fork slider thickness 3.90 ÷ 4.00 mm (0.1535 ÷ 0.1574 in)
Fork–to-gear clearance 0.070 ÷ 0.285 mm (0.0027 ÷ 0.0112 in) 0.4 mm (0.0157 in)
Cooling system
Type Fluid closed circuit with bent radiator (twin fan) and mixing
thermostat
Coolant 2.25 ± 0.5 litres (0.49 UK gal)

capacity
Type of fluid AGIP Permanent Spezial (do not dilute, use

pure)
Thermostat Starts opening at 65 °C ±2 °C
Electric fan enabling 98 °C
Electric fan disabling 93 °C

Front wheel
Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm (0.08 in)
Tyre pressure Cold 2.3 bar (33.35 psi) (rider only)

2.5 bar (36.26 PSI) (rider with passenger)
Wheel shaft runout On 100 mm (3.94 in) 0.2 mm (0,008 in)
Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm (0,032 in) 2 mm (0.08 in)
Axial 0.5 mm (0,197 in) 2 mm (0.08 in)
Tubeless tyres
Tyre pressure is subject to changes due to outer temperature and altitude; check and adjust it every time you travel in areas with wide
temperature variations or at high altitudes.
Important
Check and set tyre pressure when tyres are cold. To avoid front wheel rim distortion, when riding on bumpy roads, increase tyre
pressure by 0.2 ÷ 0.3 (20÷ 30 kPa) bar.
Tyre repair or replacement (Tubeless)

In case of minor punctures, tubeless tyres take a long time to deflate as they feature a degree of self-sealing. If a tyre is slightly deflated,
carefully check that there are no leaks.
Warning
Punctured tires must be replaced. Replace tires with recommended standard tires only. Be sure to tighten the valve caps securely to
avoid leaks when riding. Never use tube type tires. Failure to heed this warning may lead to sudden tire bursting and to serious danger
to rider.
After the replacement of a tyre, wheel balancing is required.
Warning
Do not remove or move the counterweights for wheel balancing.
Important
Tyres must be fitted only on rims by using the proper standard tyre changer.
Do not use levers or similar tools as they damage the rims.
Minimum tread depth

Measure the minimum tread depth in the most worn part: it must not be lower than 2 mm (0.078 in) and in any case not lower than the
requirements of local regulations.
Important
Visually inspect the tires at regular intervals for detecting cracks and cuts, especially on the side walls, bulges or large spots that are
indicative of internal damage. Replace them if badly damaged. Remove any stones or other foreign bodies caught in the tread.
Front suspension
Type KAYABA Hydraulic upside-down fork
Stanchion diameter Ø 43 mm (1.69 in)
Front wheel travel 130 mm (5.12 in)
Oil quantity, per leg 513 cu. cm (31.30 cu. in) (right leg)
Monster 937 / Plus 579 cu. cm (35.33 cu. in) (left leg)
Oil quantity, per leg 523 cu. cm (31.91 cu. in) (right leg)
Monster 937 Low Version 585 cu. cm (35.70 cu. in) (left leg)
Rear wheel
Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm (0.08 in)
Tyre pressure Cold 2.5 bar (36.26 psi) (rider only)

2.9 bar (40.06 psi) (rider with passenger)
Swinging arm shaft runout On 100 mm (3.94 in) 0.2 mm (0,008 in)
Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm (0,032 in) 2 mm (0.08 in)
Axial 0.5 mm (0,197 in) 2 mm (0.08 in)
Tubeless tyres
Tyre pressure is subject to changes due to outer temperature and altitude; check and adjust it every time you travel in areas with wide
temperature variations or at high altitudes.
Important
Check and set tyre pressure when tyres are cold. To avoid front wheel rim distortion, when riding on bumpy roads, increase tyre
pressure by 0.2 ÷ 0.3 (20÷ 30 kPa) bar.
Tyre repair or replacement (Tubeless)

In case of minor punctures, tubeless tyres take a long time to deflate as they feature a degree of self-sealing. If a tyre is slightly deflated,
carefully check that there are no leaks.
Warning
Punctured tires must be replaced. Replace tires with recommended standard tires only. Be sure to tighten the valve caps securely to
avoid leaks when riding. Never use tube type tires. Failure to heed this warning may lead to sudden tire bursting and to serious danger
to rider.
After the replacement of a tyre, wheel balancing is required.
Warning
Do not remove or move the counterweights for wheel balancing.
Important
Tyres must be fitted only on rims by using the proper standard tyre changer.
Do not use levers or similar tools as they damage the rims.
Minimum tread depth

Measure the minimum tread depth in the most worn part: it must not be lower than 2 mm (0.08 in) and in any case not lower than the
requirements of local regulations.
Important
Visually inspect the tires at regular intervals for detecting cracks and cuts, especially on the side walls, bulges or large spots that are
indicative of internal damage. Replace them if badly damaged. Remove any stones or other foreign bodies caught in the tread.
Rear suspension
Type KAYABA Progressive with monoshock, with preload adjustment
Shock absorber Stroke 61.5 mm (2.42 in)
Rear wheel travel 140 mm (5.51 in)
standard spring preload 18 mm / 10 mm (0.71 in / 0.39 in)

Hydraulic brakes
Separate-action anti-lock brake system operated by hall-type sensors mounted to each wheel with phonic wheel detection: ABS can be
disabled.
FRONT
Brake disc Type Two semi-floating stainless steel drilled discs
Thickness 4.5 mm (0.18 in) 4 mm (0.16

in)
Disc braking band 276 sq. cm(42.78 sq. in)

surface
Disc diameter 320 mm (12.60 in)
Disc carrier material Black painted stainless steel
Brake calliper Make Brembo
Type M4 .32 4-piston monoblock radial mount calliper with ABS cornering
Calliper cylinder no. 2 pistons Ø 32 mm (1.26 in).

diameter
Pad friction material Toshiba TT2182FF
Brake master Type PR 18/21 Radial Master Cylinder with ABS Bosch Cornering. Self-bleeding
cylinder master cylinder
Master cylinder 18 mm (0.71 in)

diameter
REAR
Brake disc Type Drilled steel disc
Thickness 4.2 mm (0.14 in) 3.6 mm (0.16

in)
Disc braking band 242 sq. cm(37.51 sq. in)

surface
Diameter 245 mm (9.65 in)
Disc carrier material Black painted stainless steel
Brake calliper Make Brembo
Type P34, 2-piston, floating calliper, with ABS Bosch Cornering
Calliper cylinder 34 mm (1.34 in)

diameter
Pad friction material TOSHIBA TT 2172 HH
Brake master Type PS11

cylinder
Master cylinder 11 mm (0.43 in)

diameter
Charging system/generator
Battery Voltage 12 V
Charge 10 Ah
Type dry, sealed, maintenance-free
Generator Capacity DENSO ferrite 490W – 14 V
VOLTAGE AT EACH OF THE THREE ENDS OF THE GENERATOR CABLE [V]
Rpm Active voltage Minimum voltage Maximum voltage
1500 rpm 20.8 V 18.9 V 24.5 V
2500 rpm 34.3 V 31.4 V 40.4 V

Injection-ignition system
Ignition Type Electric with inductive discharge, mono Spark
Starting Type Electric starter motor denso BA06, 12 V - 0.7 kW
Spark plugs Make and type NGK MAR9A-J
Electrode gap 0.8±0.1 mm

Fuel system
Important
Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and motorcycle components.
Warning
The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel with ethanol content over
10% is forbidden. Using it could result in severe damage to the engine and motorcycle components. Using fuel with ethanol content over
10% will make the warranty null and void.
Type Type
Throttle body MIKUNI with full Ride-by-wire system

Diameter: 53 mm (2.09 in)
Injectors per cylinder no. 1
Firing points per injector 4

Injection system
Make Type
Control unit CONTINENTAL ECU M3D

Lights/instrument panel
Description Technical specification
Headlight: LED HIGH BEAM no. 4 LEDs NICHIA NCS W170CT
Headlight: LED LOW BEAM no. 1 LED NICHIA NC4 W093AT
Headlight: LED parking light/DRL no. 20 LEDs NICHIA NFS W123DT
LED Front turn indicators no. 6 LEDs NICHIA NFS A172CT
Front/ rear turn indicators: only USA version with LED no. 3 LEDs OSRAM KY DMLN31.FY
LED Rear turn indicators no. 7 LEDs EDISON EMC 3030
Tail light: LED parking light no. 4 LEDs DOMINANT SVA-MHG
Tail light: STOP light no. 9 LEDs DOMINANT SVA-MHG
Number plate light: LED no.3 LEDs CREE CLA1A
FUSE BOXES
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than specified. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric system or even cause fire.
Fuse box (A) key
POS. El. item Value
1 Key 1 (ECU / ABS / IMU) 5A
2 Key 2 (Dashboard / BBS) 15 A
3 Key 3 (Accessories) 10 A
4 Diagnostics 7.5 A
Fuse box (A) key
5 Fuel pump relay 10 A
6 - -
7 - -
8 Spare 10 A
9 Spare 20 A
10 Spare 15 A
Fuse box (B) key
POS. El. item Value
1 Load relay 25 A
2 Starter relay 7.5 A
3 Dashboard 20 A
4 BBS 10 A
5 ABS 25 A
6 ABS 10 A
7 - -
8 Spare 10 A
9 Spare 20 A
Fuse box (B) key
10 Spare 15 A
Dimensions
MONSTER 937 (Plus)
A) Total length = 2,129 mm (83.82 in)

B) Wheelbase = 1,474 mm (58.03 in)
C) Minimum ground clearance = 202 mm (7.95 in)
D) Front footpeg height = 362 mm (14.25 in)
E) Rear footpeg height = 530 mm (20.87 in)
F) Seat height (standard / performance) = 820 mm (32.28 in) / 800 mm (31.5 in)
G) Headlight fairing height = 1076 mm (42.36 in)
H) Handlebar height = 1058 mm (41.65 in)

I) Height at instrument panel = 1125 mm (44.29 in)
L) Maximum height at rear-view mirrors = 1236 mm (48.66 in)
M) Maximum width at rear-view mirrors = 868 mm (34.17 in)
N) Maximum width at brake and clutch lever = 788 mm (31.02 in)
Fuel, lubricants and other fluids
Warning
Failure to observe weight limits could result in poor handling and impair the performance of your motorcycle, and you may lose control of
the motorcycle.
Fuel, lubricants and other Type

fluids
Fuel tank, including a reserve Ducati recommends the use of SHELL V-Power super unleaded fuel with a 14 litres (3.08 UK
of 3.5 litres (0.77 UK gal) minimum octane rating of 95 RON gal)
For the US market, SHELL V-Power with 90 (RON+MON)/2 fuel octane rating (at
least).
Lubrication circuit: USA, Ducati recommends the use of only SAE 15W-50/JASO MA2 oil and suggests the 3.1 litres (0.68 UK
CANADA, ITALY use of Shell Advance DUCATI 15W-50 Fully Synthetic Oil. gal)
Lubrication circuit: other Ducati recommends the use of only SAE 15W-50/JASO MA2 oil and suggests the 3.1 litres (0.68 UK
countries use of Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil (JASO: MA2 and API: SN). gal)
Front/rear brake and clutch DOT 4 -

circuits
Protectant for electric contacts Protective spray for electric systems -
Front fork SHELL Donax TA 579 cu. cm (35.33

Monster 937 / Plus cu. in) (left leg);
513 cu. cm (31.30
cu. in) (right leg)
Front fork SHELL Donax TA 585 cu. cm (35.70

Monster 937 Low Version cu. in) (left leg);
523 cu. cm (31.91
cu. in) (right leg)
Cooling circuit ENI Agip Permanent Spezial antifreeze (do not dilute, use pure) 2.25 litres (0.49 UK
gal)
Important
Do not use any additives in fuel or lubricants. Using them could result in severe damage of the engine and motorcycle components.
Warning
The motorcycle is only compatible with fuel having a maximum content of ethanol of 10% (E10). Using fuel with ethanol content over
10% is forbidden. Using it could result in severe damage to the engine and motorcycle components. Using fuel with ethanol content over
10% will make the warranty null and void.
Engine oil
A good quality engine oil has special properties. Use only a highly detergent engine oil with certified SE, SF or SG or higher service
ratings as marked on the container.
Recommendations concerning oil

It is recommended to use oil complying with the following specifications:
• viscosity grade SAE 15W-50;

• standard API: SM;
• standard JASO: MA2.
SAE 15W-50 is an alphanumerical code identifying oil class based on viscosity: two figures with a W ("winter") in-between; the first figure
indicates oil viscosity at low temperature; the second figure indicates its viscosity at high temperature. API (American standard) and
JASO (Japanese standard) standards specify oil characteristics.
Frame tightening torque values
Torques (Nm)
Description Q.ty Thread/Pitch Notes

Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
PRE-APPLIED
Screw securing Rear-view mirror 1 M8x1.25 25.0
THREADLOCKER
M8x1.25 - PRE-APPLIED
Rear-view mirror ret. screw 1 25.0
LH THREADLOCKER
STAND
Side stand rotation pin fastener 1 M8x1.25 24.0 GREASE B + LOCK 2
Side stand rotation pin lock nut fastener 1 M8x1.25 24.0 LOCK 2
PRE-APPLIED
Side stand plate to crankcase fastener 1 M10x1.5 50.0 ±5%
THREADLOCKER
PRE-APPLIED
Stand sensor fastener 1 M6x1 5.0
THREADLOCKER
CHAIN/SPROCKET
Sprocket fastener 1 M25x1.5 186.0 ±5% GREASE B
PRE-APPLIED
Sprocket cover fastener 3 M6x1 6.0
THREADLOCKER
LIGHTS
PRE-APPLIED
Front subframe to steering head and bottom yoke fastener 2+2 M6x1 8.0
THREADLOCKER
PRE-APPLIED
Headlight to U-bolt support fastener 2+2 M5x0.8 5.0
THREADLOCKER
Headlight adjustment guide fastener 2 ST4 1.0
Headlight spring fastener 1 M5x0.8 3.0
Front wiring to front subframe retainer 1 M5x0.8 3.0
Headlight trim to front subframe fastener 2 M5x0.8 3.0
Tail light fastener 2 Self-tapping 1.8
Front turn indicators to tank panel fastener 2+2 M5x0.8 3.0
Rear turn indicator fastener 1+1 M5x0.8 3.0 LOCK 2
Front turn indicator upp. support to lower USA turn indicator support
1+1 M5x0.8 3.0
fastener
Front USA turn indicators to tank panel fastener 2+2 M5x0.8 3.0
Torques (Nm)

Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
Front USA turn indicator fastener 1+1 M5x0.8 3.0 LOCK 2
Headlight trim fastener 1 ST4 0.5
INSTRUMENTS
Dashboard support to instrument panel fastener 1 M5x0.8 5.0
Instrument panel cover fastener 2 M5x0.8 5.0
FRONT FORK
Steering bearing fastener 1 M35x1 35.0 ±5% GREASE B
Brake hose cable ring to bottom yoke fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
Steering limit stop lock nut fastener 2 M8x1.25 18.0 LOCK 2
Steering head on steering shaft fastener 1 M8x1.25 18.0 ±5% GREASE B
Steering head on fork fastener (RH+LH) 1+1 M8x1.25 24 ±5% GREASE B
Bottom yoke on fork fastener (RH+LH) 2+2 M8x1.25 16.0 ±5% GREASE B
Fork bottom end fastener (RH+LH) 2+2 M6x1 10.0 ±5%
Handlebar lower U-bolt to steering head fastener 2 M10x1.25 45.0 ±5%
ABS sensor cable ring to LH fork axle lug fastener 2 M6x1 10.0 LOCK 2
PRE-APPLIED
ABS sensor to LH fork axle lug fastener 1 M6x1 8.0
THREADLOCKER
Dashboard support to steering head fastener 2 M6x1 10.0 LOCK 2
ELECTRICAL-ELECTRONIC SYSTEM
BBS support bracket to electrical sys. upp. support fastener 2 ST5 2.0
El. sys. upper support to central subframe crossbeam fastener 2 M6x1 10.0
Screw securing RICHCO clamp base to el. sys. upper support 2 ST3.5 1.0
El. sys. upper support to el. sys. lower support screw 5 ST3.5 0.85
Battery bracket fastener 2 M5x0.8 2.0
Battery cable to terminal fastener 2 M6x1 2.5
Glove compartment to rear crossbeam subframe fastener 2 M5x0.8 3.0
Glove compartment to front crossbeam fastener 2 M5x0.8 3.0
Solenoid starter cable to starter motor fastener 1 M6x1 5.0 GREASE D

Torques (Nm)
Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
Solenoid starter cable on solenoid starter fastener 2 M6x1 5.0
Ground cable on engine fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
PRE-APPLIED
Ignition switch to frame fastener 2 M6x1 SHEAR SCREW
THREADLOCKER
Regulator support to frame fastener 2 M5x0.8 6.0
Voltage rectifier to support fastener 2 M6x1 5.0
ECU support to airbox upper shell retainer 2 ST5 2.0
IMU to bracket retainer 2 M6x1 6.0
IMU support bracket to frame fastener 3 M5x0.8 6.0
Horn to bracket fastener 1 M8x1.25 8.0
PRE-APPLIED
Horn bracket to frame fastener 1 M5x0.8 5.0
THREADLOCKER
MAP sensor bracket to frame fastener 2 M5x0.8 5.0
El. sys. upper support to rear subframe crossbeam fastener 1 M6x1 6.0
Hellermann cable ring to crankcase fastener 1 M5x0.8 2.0
Wiring cover to generator casing fastener 2 M5x0.8 3.0
Frame plugs retaining U-bolt fastener 1 M5x0.8 5.0
FRONT BRAKE
Front brake master cylinder to handlebar fastener 2 M6x1 10.0
Front brake calliper fastener (RH+LH) 2+2 M10x1.25 45.0 ±5% GREASE B
Front brake calliper pre-tightening tool for settling (RH+LH) 2+2 M10x1.25 2.0 GREASE B
REAR SWINGING ARM
Wedge to swingarm shaft fastener 1 M8x1.25 18.0 ±5% GREASE B
PRE-APPLIED
Upper chain sliding shoe fastener 1 M5x0.8 5.0
THREADLOCKER
PRE-APPLIED
Lower chain sliding shoe retainer 2 M5x0.8 5.0
THREADLOCKER
Fastener securing cable guide to swinging arm 1 M6x1 10.0
Chain tensioner slider adjuster retainer 2 M8x1.25 8.0 GREASE B

Torques (Nm)
Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
Cable guide to brake calliper plate fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
PRE-APPLIED
ABS sensor to brake calliper plate fastener 1 M6x1 8.0
THREADLOCKER
Pre-retaining the chain tensioner sliding shoe adjuster screw 2 M8x1.25 2.0
REAR BRAKE
Screw retaining rear brake calliper to calliper holder plate 2 M8x1.25 25.0 ±5% GREASE B
Screw securing rear brake master cylinder and fluid reservoir

2 M6x1 10.0 LOCK 2
retaining plate to RH footpeg
PRE-APPLIED
Screw securing rear brake fluid reservoir to support 1 M6x1 2.0
THREADLOCKER
ABS SYSTEM BRAKE
ABS control unit on bracket fastener 2 M6x1 6.8 ±1 LOCK 2
ABS hose support to frame fastener 2 M5x0.8 5.0
NUMBER PLATE HOLDER
Number plate holder to subframe fastener 4 M6x1 10.0
Upper guard to lower guard fastener 4 ST5 2.0
Number plate holder plate to rear guard retainer 3 M6x1 5.0
Reflector fastener 2 M4x0.7 2.0
Number plate light fastener 2 M4x0.7 1.2 LOCK 1
Reinforcement bracket fastener 2 M5x0.8 6
Reinforcement bracket fastener 2 M4x0.5 2.5
HANDLEBAR / CLUTCH CONTROL
Handlebar U-bolt locking screws 2+2 M8x1.25 25.0 ±5% GREASE B
RBW throttle to handlebar fastener 2 M5x0.8 1.5
Clutch actuator to engine fastener 3 M6x1 10.0 FLUOROCARBON 880
Clutch master cylinder to handlebar fastener 2 M6x1 10.0
LH switch fastener 2 M5x0.8 2.0
RH switch fastener 2 M4x0.7 1.5
Counterweight to handlebar tube retainer 1+1 M6x1 10.0

Torques (Nm)
Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
Clutch hose bracket retainer 1 M6x1 10.0
REAR SUSPENSION
Shock absorber on swinging arm and vertical head fastener 2 M10x1.25 42.0 ±5% GREASE B
FRONT MUDGUARD
PRE-APPLIED
Front mudguard fastener (RH+LH) 2+2 M6x1 8.0
THREADLOCKER
ABS line cable ring clamp 1 ST3.5 0.5
WATER RADIATOR
Radiator to frame upper retainer 2 M6x1 10.0
Threaded pin to horizontal head fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
Radiator connecting rod to engine lower fastener 1 M5x0.8 5.0
Water hose fastener: radiator, thermostat and water pump 4 3.0
Water hose fastener: thermostat and engine 3 3.0
Expansion reservoir to ABS control unit support bracket fastener 2 M5x0.8 4.0
ABS control unit support bracket to manifold fastener 2 M6x1 8.0
ABS control unit supp. bracket to engine fastener 2 M6x1 1.0
Wiring bracket to engine fastener 1 M6x1 8.0
Fan fastener 4 M5x0.8 4.0
Fan deflector fastener 2 Self-tapping 2.0
V.H. breather pipe fastener 1 0.6
FOOTPEGS AND LEVERS ON BRAKE SIDE
Switch screw on rear brake lever fastener 1 M6x1 8.0
Brake master cylinder control rod fastener 1 M6x1 5
Rear brake rod spacer to counteract spring fastener 1 M6x1 10.0 LOCK 2
PRE-APPLIED
Brake lever pin on RH footpeg holder plate fastener 1 M8x1.25 24.0
THREADLOCKER
LH footpeg holder plate to engine fastener 2 M10x1.5 36.0
RH footpeg support to swingarm shaft upper fastener 1 M12x1.25 55.0 ±5% GREASE B
Torques (Nm)
Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
Stop sensor plate to footpeg holder plate fastener 1 M5x0.8 5.0 LOCK 2
FOOTPEGS AND LEVERS ON GEARBOX SIDE
LH footpeg support to swingarm shaft upper fastener 1 M12x1.25 55.0 ±5% GREASE B
DQS joint to con-rod fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
PRE-APPLIED
Gearchange lever (connecting rod) to pawl fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
THREADLOCKER
PRE-APPLIED
Gearchange lever pin on LH footpeg holder plate fastener 1 M8x1.25 24.0
THREADLOCKER
DQS joint fastener 1 M6x1 5.0 LOCK 1
DQS to gear change pedal fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
REAR MUDGUARD
PRE-APPLIED
Front chain guard and splash guard fastener 1 M5x0.8 5.0
THREADLOCKER
PRE-APPLIED
Chain guard fastener 1 M5x0.8 5.0
THREADLOCKER
PRE-APPLIED
Rear mudguard fastener 2 M5x0.8 5.0
THREADLOCKER
FRONT WHEEL
PRE-APPLIED
Brake disc fastener (RH+LH) 5+5 M8x1.25 30.0 ±5%
THREADLOCKER
Front wheel nut fastener 1 M25x1.25 63.0 ±5% GREASE B
Angle valve fastener (PLANT DMT) 1 M8x1.25 9.0 LOCK 2
REAR WHEEL
Rear sprocket fastener 5 M10x1 46+/-5% LOCK 2
PRE-APPLIED
Brake disc fastener 6 M8x1.25 25+/-5%
THREADLOCKER
Rear wheel shaft nut fastener 1 M25x1.25 145+/-5% GREASE B-2
Pre-tightening of wheel shaft nut for chain tensioning 1 M25x1.25 20.0
Pin on rear sprocket flange fastener 5 M14x1.5 46+/-5% LOCK 5

Torques (Nm)
Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
Angle valve fastener (PLANT DMT) 1 M8x1.25 9.0 LOCK 2
FUEL TANK
GAC retainer 6 M5x0.8 5.0 GREASE B
Screw tank plug fastener (external) 3 M5x0.8 4.0
Tank plug fastener (internal) 1 M5x0.8 4.0
Tank to frame fastener (rear) 2 M6x1 10.0 GREASE B
Tank to frame fastener (front) 2 M6x1 10.0
EXHAUST
Exhaust pipe flange to hor./vert. head nut 3+3 M6x1 10.0
Pre-silencer fastening clamp 2 M6x1 4.0 GREASE I
Lambda sensor fastener (HOR.+VER.) 1+1 M18x1.5 24.5
RH-LH connecting rod to pre-silencer fastener 1+1 M6x1 10.0
RH connecting rod to exhaust support bracket fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
LH connecting rod to footpeg holder plate fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
Silencer retaining clip 1 M6x1 10.5 GREASE I
Heat guard on silencer fastener 3 M5x0.8 5.0
Screw securing Silencer to bracket 1 M8x1.25 20.0
Heat protection support bracket to engine fastener (rear) 1 M6x1 10.0
Heat protection support bracket to engine fastener (front) 1 M5x0.8 5.0
Heat guard on exhaust pipe fastener (VER.) 3 M6x1 10.0
SEAT
Seat plate to seat fastener 2 M5x0.8 6.0
Seat plate to frame fastener 1 M5x0.8 4.0
Strap to rear frame fastener 2 M6x1 6.0
FRAME
Frame to H/V heads fastener 4 M12x1.25 90 ±5% GREASE B
Screws retaining subframe to vertical head 2 M18x1.5 150 ±5% GREASE B

Torques (Nm)

Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
Subframe to engine fastener 1 M12x1.25 60 ±5% GREASE B
Subframe jointing upper brackets fastener 4+4 M6x1 10 ±5%
Subframe jointing lower bracket fastener 4 M6x1 10 ±5%
Latch to rear subframe fastener 2 M6x1 5.0
Seat lock to rear subframe ring nut 1 M22x1.5 4.0
Wiring retaining bracket fastener 1+1 M6x1 5.0
Rear subframes with rear crossbeam fastener 4 M6x1 10 ±5%
Hellermann to frame fastener 1 M6x1 5.0
OIL COOLER
Pressure switch support to engine fastener 1 M6x1 10.0
Pressure switch to remote oil pipe fastener 1 M10x1 24.0
Pressure switch oil pipe to engine retainer 1 M14x1.5 32.0
AIR INLET / OIL BREATHER
Filter cover to Airbox upper shell fastener 6 ST5 2.0
Duct to Airbox upper shell fastener 2 ST5 2.0
Cable ring to Airbox upper shell fastener 1+1 ST5 2.0
Temperature sensor to Airbox upper shell fastener 2 ST3 0.3
Connector bracket to Airbox upper shell fastener 2 ST5 2.0
Upper shell to Airbox lower shell fastener 12 ST5 2.25
Blow-by hose clips on blow-by valve fastener 1 …… 1.5
Pre-applied
Upper belt guard fastener 5 M6x1 10.0
threadlocker
FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM
Injector cap to throttle body fastener 2 M5x0.8 5.0
PRE-APPLIED
Intake funnel to throttle body fastener 2+2 M5x0.8 5.0
THREADLOCKER
Throttle body to airbox lower shell fastener 4+4 M6x1 8.0
Throttle body to intake manifold retainer 2 …… 2.5

Torques (Nm)
Monster Monster
937 937 Plus
ACCESSORIES
FAIRING ASS.
Ignition switch cover fastener 2 M6x1 4.0
RH/LH cover to tank fastener 3+3 M5x0.8 3.0
RH/LH panel to tank fastener 2+2 M5x0.8 3.0
RH-LH panel to RH-LH tank cover fastener 1+1 M5x0.8 3.0
Rear subframe cover retainer 2+2 M5x0.8 2.0
Rear subframe cover retainer 1+1 M5x0.8 2.0
Tail guard cover to frame fastener 4 M5x0.8 2.0
V.H. wiring support to engine fastener 3 M5x0.8 5.0
Engine cylinder head LH protection to V.H. wiring support fastener 1 M5x0.8 3.0
Engine cylinder head LH protection to engine fastener 1 M5x0.8 3.0
Canister cover to frame fastener 2 M5x0.8 3.0
Expansion reservoir cover to frame fastener 2 M5x0.8 3.0
Expansion reservoir cover to ABS control unit support fastener 1 M5x0.8 3.0
LH-RH frame heat protection fastener 2+2 ST4 1.0
Frame plug retainer 2 M5x0.8 3.0
PRE-APPLIED
Radiator cover fastener 1 M5x0.8 2.0
THREADLOCKER
Clutch casing cover fastener 3 M5x0.8 3.0
Seat plate to single-seater cover bottom fastener 2 M5x0.8 6.0
Dashboard support to instrument panel fastener 2 M5x0.8 5.0
Headlight fairing support bracket to Dashboard support fastener 4 M5x0.8 5.0
Headlight fairing side body panels to headlight fairing support

2 M5x0.8 3.0
bracket fastener
PLEXIGLAS to headlight fairing retainer 2 M4x0.5 0.2
*dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque tolerance must be Nm ±5%.

Engine tightening torque values
Torque (Nm) Notes

Thread /
Application Length
pitch
Min Nominal Max
GEAR SELECTOR CONTROL
PRE-APPLIED
Gearbox pawl screw 25 M8x1.25 34 36 38
THREADLOCKER
Selector drum cam retaining screw 20 M8x1.25 22 25 28 LOCK 2
PRE-APPLIED
Gearbox pawl screw 20 M6x1 15 16 17
THREADLOCKER
GEARBOX / CLUTCH
Clutch drum nut - M25x1.5 180 190 200 GREASE B
FCC wet clutch spring screw 40 M6x1 9 10 11
TIMING SYSTEM
Timing layshaft belt roller ring nut - M15x1 64 71 78 GREASE A
Camshaft gear nut – M14x1 50 55 60 GREASE B
FIXED and MOBILE tensioner retaining nut - M8x1.25 22 25 28 GREASE A
PRE-APPLIED
Stud bolt special screw securing vertical belt guard 18 M6x1 9 10 11
THREADLOCKER
PRE-APPLIED
PLASTIC cover retaining screw 18 M6x1 9 10 11
THREADLOCKER
PLASTIC cover filter support self-tapping screw 12 3.5 1.5 1.75 2
IGNITION SYSTEM
Spark plug - M10x1 11 12 13
18– PRE-APPLIED
Screw securing rotor to flywheel M6x1 11 13 15
25–35 THREADLOCKER
PRE-APPLIED
Starter clutch flange retaining screw 16 M6x1 9 10 11
THREADLOCKER (LOCK 5)
CON-RODS
Flywheel retaining nut - M24x1 313 330 346 LOCK 5
Primary sprocket retaining ring nut - M22x1 171 190 209 GREASE B
Steel oil recess blanking plug - NITRIDED - M20x1 45 50 55 LOCK 5
PRE-APPLIED
Balancing plug - M12x1.25 26 28 30
THREADLOCKER
Connecting rod bolt (Class 14.9) - M10x1 Apply GREASE C GREASE C

On thread and underhead
Torque (Nm) Notes
Thread /
Application Length
pitch
Min Nominal Max
Tighten to 35 Nm
Snug torque to 20 Nm
Tightening 105º +/-1º
Torque check 80÷110 Nm
Crankshaft dowel 8 M8x1.25 11 13 15 LOCK 5
Crankshaft drilled dowel 8 M8x1.25 11 13 15 LOCK 5
COVERS
Wet clutch fluid filler cap - M20x2.5 4.5 5 5.5
Water pump cover plug + washer - M10x1 13.5 15 16.5
Clutch recess blanking plug + washer - M10x1 10 11 12
Water pump bearing retaining screw + washer 16 M6x1 9 10 11 LOCK 2
Timing inspection cover screw 14 M6x1 4.5 5 5.5
PRE-APPLIED
Generator stator retaining screw - M6x1 12.1 13.5 14.9 THREADLOCKER
LOCK 5
PRE-APPLIED
Sound-deadening panel retaining screw 10 M6x1 10 12 14
THREADLOCKER
1) First tightening to 3±3.5Nm
Generator cover, clutch and water pump cover 19-27- 2) Final tightening with a
M6x1
closing screw (aluminium) 32 rotation of 90º
3) Torque check 5÷10Nm
Rotary gear sensor retaining screw 16 M4x0.7 2 2.5 3 LOCK 2
CRANKCASE
Oil mesh filter plug - M32x1.5 38 42 46
Plastic oil mesh filter - M24x1.5 9 10 11 GREASE A
Oil intake service hole plug - steel/aluminium - M22x1.5 38 42 46 LOCK 5
Oil cartridge - M16x1.5 12 13 14 ENGINE OIL (on seal)
Nipple for oil cartridge - M16x1.5 38 42 46 LOCK 2
Stud bolt special screw for heat protection support - M16x1.5 27 30 33
Clutch crankcase oil delivery channel plug (lobe

- M15x1 22 25 28 LOCK 5
pump)
Torque (Nm) Notes
Thread /
Application Length
pitch
Min Nominal Max
Stud bolt special screw for heat protection support - M12x1.5 18 20 22
THREE BOND TB 1215 (on

Oil drain plug with magnet - M12x1.5 18 20 22
thread only)
Oil channel tapered dowel on clutch (delivery+ return

8 M10x1 18 20 22 LOCK 5
to oil cooler)
Cylinder/head stud bolt - M10x1.5 28 30 32 LOCK 2
Apply GREASE B
Casing jointing screw in cylinder area
Preload torque 19 21
Central jointing screw + swinging arm connection 75 M8x1.25 GREASE B (On thread only)
area
Tightening
25 28
torque
Gear stopper lever retaining screw 21.5 M8x1.25 16 18 20 LOCK 2
Gearbox pawl inertial retaining screw 15 M8x1.25 20 22 24 LOCK 2
Nut retaining oil adjustment screw to clutch 5 M8x1 10 11 12
Blow-by valve retaining screw 16 M6x1 9 10 11
Secondary bearing, chain side, stop screw 12 M6x1 9 10 11 LOCK 2
Primary bearing, clutch side, stop screw 12 M6x1 9 10 11 LOCK 2
Casing jointing screw in idle gear shaft area 75 M6x1 9 10 11
Casing outer jointing screw 35 M6x1 9 10 11
PRE-APPLIED
Selector drum bearing retaining screw 10 M6x1 9 10 11
Radial pick-up retaining screw 16 M6x1 9 10 11
Oil squirter under piston retaining screw 10 M5x0.8 7 8 9 LOCK 2
Blow-by valve upper shell screw 14 M3x0.5 1 1.2 1.4 LOCK 5
ELECTRIC STARTER
Starter motor inner retaining screw 18-20 M6x1 12.5 13.5 14.5 DRILOC 218
Starter motor inner retaining screw 25 M6x1 12.5 13.5 14.5 DRILOC 218
PRE-APPLIED
Starter motor rear retaining screw 30 M6x1 9 10 11
THREADLOCKER
COOLING CIRCUIT
Water circuit ties - - 2 2.5 3
OIL PUMP
By-pass pump plug - M15x1 15 17 19 LOCK 5

Torque (Nm) Notes
Thread /
Application Length
pitch
Min Nominal Max
Oil lobe pump assembling screw 16-50 M6x1 9 10 11
CYLINDER HEADS
FIXED and MOBILE tensioner pin - M20x1 45 50 55 LOCK 2
Camshaft belt roller ring nut - M17x1 64 71 78 GREASE A
LOCK 4 (hold insert while

Temperature sensor on water union - M12x1.5 20 23 26
tightening)
PRE-APPLIED
Rocker arm shaft blanking plug + washer - M12x1.25 14 15 16
Apply GREASE C
AGIP GR FD33 (on thread
Nut for head/cylinder stud bolt - M10x1.5
Preload torque 40 42 and underhead)
Tightening
60 63
torque
Apply SHELL ULTRA 4
Preload torque 10 11
Camshaft cap retaining screw 32 M8x1.25 SHELL ULTRA 4
Tightening
22.5 25
torque
PRE-APPLIED
Coil retaining screw 18 M6x1 9 10 11
Pulley flange retaining screws 10.9 12 M6x1 12.5 14 15.5
Intake manifold retaining nut - M6x1 9 10 11
Head cover retaining screw - M6x1 9 10 11
Head cover retaining special screw M6-M5 - M6x1 9 10 11
Exhaust manifold stud bolt - M6x1 9 10 11 LOCK 5
Vacuometer retaining screw + washer 8 M6x1 4 5 6
Horizontal head air breather union + washer - M6x1 2 2.5 3 LOCK 2
MAP sensor special screw - M6x1 4 5 6
Vertical head air breather screw + washer 8 M6x1 7 8 9 LOCK 2
Intake manifold retaining screw 16 M6x1 9 10 11
Secondary air cover retaining screw - M5x0.8 5 6 7
Stud bolt special screw securing water unions to PRE-APPLIED

16 M5x0.8 5 6 7
head THREADLOCKER
Torque (Nm) Notes
Thread /
Application Length
pitch
Min Nominal Max
PRE-APPLIED
Screw securing water unions to head 16 M5x0.8 5 6 7
THREADLOCKER
CANISTER
Union for canister + washer - M6x1 4 5 6

Engine special tools
PART NO. DESCRIPTION IMAGE
88713.0137 Primary drive sprocket retainer key
88713.1749 Puller for driving pulley and cover
88700.5644 Driving pulley tightening tool
88713.1806 Camshaft pulley (Z=20) tightening tool
88713.1821 Tensioner pin wrench
88713.1994 Rocker arm shaft puller

88713.2011 Tool to block crankshaft at Top Dead Centre (TDC)
88713.2442 Tool to install seal ring on valve guide
88713.2676 Cylinder head nut tightening tool
88713.2870 Con-rod guiding tool
88713.2877 Spark plug wrench
88713.2906 Oil cartridge wrench

88713.3219 Reaction tool for pulley tightening
88713.3334 Selector fork positioning plate
88713.3367 Flywheel wrench
88713.2651 Clutch pack assembly reaction tool
88713.0031 Primary drive gear puller
88713.1309 Fork feeler gauges 2.35 mm

88765.1298 Valve lower shim check spacer
88765.1623 Timing pulley positioning tool
88765.1635 Timing check tool
88713.2103 Bearing surface for head installation
88713.4411 Insert
88713.2695 Tool for measuring oil pressure at the clutch

88713.0022 Gear selector tool

Frame special tools
80007.0139 Front wheel shaft wrench
88713.1058 Wrench to fit steering tube plug
88713.1062 Steering tube bearing installation tool
88713.1074 Swingarm shaft removal tool
88713.1059 Ball bearing installation tool
88713.3220 Engine repair work bench

88713.1010 Gas suction fitting
88713.4488 Fork fluid level syringe
88713.1832 Engine repair work bench

Diagnosis special tools
28620441B "PC HASP DDS2.0" wrench
979000252 DDS 2 (Ducati Diagnosis System 2.0)
979000253 Belt tensioning
979000254 Diagnosis and power supply cable
979000255 Diagnosis and power supply cable (CAN)
979000256 Power supply cable from DDS battery

97900259 MAP-KEY wiring

Vehicle pre-delivery
Vehicle pre-delivery
Below you will find the Pre-delivery Check List, which groups all the operations to be carried out when the vehicle is put on the road.
Important
Prior to the activation of the vehicle warranty, during the pre-delivery checks, any defects found on the vehicle must be reported to your
Service Area Manager with a PRED-type warranty.
Any warranty claims that do not comply with the above will be rejected.
Check of the supplied kit completeness
The tool kit is housed under the rider's seat (1) and consists of:
- 3-mm Allen wrench (2) (light adjustment);

- 4-mm Allen wrench (3) (passenger seat removal);
- Flat-head/Phillips screwdriver PH2 (4) (battery screws tightening).
Supplied kit components
Below is a summary table of all the components contained in the kit supplied with the Monster 937 Model Year 2021, depending on the
chosen equipment and country version, in order to facilitate pre-delivery operations.
Note
The kit components are the same for all model versions (Monster 937 and Monster 937 Plus) but differ for some country versions and
type of equipment.
Assembly Part no. Description
Battery Battery kit

39520311A
YUASA YT7B-BS
86613111A Rubber support

8301L091B Battery fixing bracket
86610301B Rubber blocks
77214411AA M5x9 screw fixing the battery mounting bracket
Left
52310551A
rear-view mirror
Right
52310541A
rear-view mirror
Rear-view
77113731A M8x25 screw fixing the LH rear-view mirror
mirrors
77113741A M8x25 screw fixing the RH rear-view mirror
46210021A Washer
Sticker
43910421A
“DESMO SERVICE 30000 km”
Only for Canada and California country versions
43311661A Adhesive label
69710161A 3-mm Allen wrench
Supplied kit 69710141A 5-mm Allen wrench
69710391A Flat-head/Phillips screwdriver
15310072B Handlebar counterweight
71112791A Bushing counter-acting tool

Counterweights
71015041A Bushing
77150743B M6x45 screw for external counterweight fixing
24727071AA Red seat cover
8301L111A Retaining bracket
Seat cover 77210841BA M5x10.5 screw fixing the seat cover
86610301B Drift
86612221A Rubber element
Headlight 43815821A Ducati shield

fairing
48114311AA Headlight fairing
48114321A Plexiglas
75010281A Flexible nut

76414381A Rubber element
77214411AA M5x9 screw
77240243C M5x8 screw
77510071AB Screw
8301L351AA Support bracket
85041951AA Clip
85210241A Washer
91372351A For USA / Canada / Mexico market (English)
91717382A Italian-Spanish-Portuguese-French-Dutch-Greek
English-Swedish-Finnish-Danish-Norwegian-Polish-Czech-Slovak-Slovenian-Hungarian-
91717382B
Romanian-Russian
Service Booklet
English-Korean-
91717382C
Thai-Chinese
91717382D Japanese
Specific
LUM Owner's manual
by model version and
country
Warning
Please be reminded that the part numbers contained in the table may undergo changes. We recommend always referring to the spare
part catalogue and the dedicated technical bulletins.
Install handlebar balancing weights
Position the left and right counterweight on the handlebar; tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Preparation of the lead-acid battery Yuasa YT7B – BS
Warning
Before carrying out any work on the battery, read the following instructions carefully for filling, charging and installation.
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (General safety rules). The electrolyte in the battery
is corrosive and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it contains sulphuric acid. Wear gloves and, if necessary,
protective clothing, a face-mask and goggles when adding electrolyte. If the fluid comes into contact with the skin, wash thoroughly with
fresh water. If it comes into contact with the eyes, wash thoroughly with water for 15 minutes and consult an ophthalmologist. In the
event of accidental ingestion, drink large quantities of water or milk, and continue with milk of magnesia, a beaten egg or vegetable oil.
Do not allow sparks, flames, cigarettes or any other heat source to get near the battery, as it produces explosive gases. When
recharging or using the battery indoors, make sure that the room is adequately ventilated. Do not inhale the gases produced during
recharging. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Warning
Do not dispose of exhausted battery into the environment.
Disposal
Do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance
with the prevailing local and national standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by
Decision No 2001/118/EC: EWC 16 06 01* (Lead batteries).
Note
It should be noted that the above-mentioned EWC code is a general and non-binding provision, provided based on product original
composition and intended use. The user is thus responsible for selecting the EWC code most suitable to the concerned product, based
on product real use and taking into account any alterations and/or contaminations of the product, as well as any amendments to the
prevailing standard on waste disposal.
Remove the adhesive film (1) protecting the filler caps present on the battery
Warning
Make sure that the electrolyte is of the specific type for your battery.
Remove the container with the electrolyte from the plastic bag.
Remove the cap strip (3) from the container (2).
Important
Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later to plug the battery cells.
Warning
Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas.
Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the battery. Push the container
(2) downwards with sufficient force to break the seals and allow the fluid to flow out.
Note
Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently.
Make sure that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least twenty minutes.
If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container.
Important
Never move the container away from the battery. Do not cut or puncture the container.
Make sure that all the electrolyte has flowed out. Carefully extract the container (2) from the battery.
Fit the cap strip (3) previously removed from the electrolyte container (2) to the battery, and ensure the caps plug off all filler holes.
For batteries over 12 Ah, leave the battery to rest for at least 1 hour (this process is fundamental to ensure battery correct performance).
Set the cap strip on the filler holes without securing it. Proceed with battery charging (see below for a description of the procedure).
Note
When using an automatic battery charger, ensure that the charger current (ampere) is equal to or higher than the value of the standard
charging system (STD) indicated on the battery itself.
Press firmly downwards with both hands until the caps are firmly in place (do not use a hammer).
Warning
Do not dispose of the electrolyte container into the environment.
Disposal
Decision No 2001/118/EC: EWC 15 01 10* (Packaging containing residues of or contaminated by dangerous substances).
Note
Recharging the battery
Note
Check that battery terminals are properly connected to the battery charger.
For the first recharge operation, follow the instructions set forth in the manual present inside the acid box, making sure to use one of the
battery charger models approved by Ducati and listed below:
BatteryMate 150-9
Set the yellow knob to "NEW". Set the red

knob to the correct nominal charge "RANGE"
for the battery.
Example for battery

YUASA YT12B - BS:
Range 4  10÷16 Ah
Optimate Pro 4
Set the knob to "NEW".
Use only constant-voltage battery chargers.

The Ducati Service approved battery chargers for lead-acid batteries are the following TecMate BatteryMate 150-9 and Optimate Pro 4
models.
We remind you that the new Ducati Battery Charger is now available. This device has been designed to extend the life of lead-acid
batteries, especially during periods of low motorcycle use when the battery is progressively discharged, risking compromising its
functionality.
The battery maintainer works according to a completely automatic algorithm controlled by a microprocessor. Once the battery is fully
charged, the voltage is reduced to the maintenance level. If the electronic components applied to the motorcycle should cause the
battery voltage to drop below the optimum level, the device will automatically return to charge mode in order to restore the correct
voltage and ensure that the motorcycle can be started at any time, even after long periods of inactivity.
The Ducati Battery Charger is available in different country versions with the following part numbers:
• 69928471A (EU);
• 69928471AY (UK);
• 69928471AZ (US);
• 69928471AW (JP);
• 69928471AX (AU-NZ-CN).
Once charging is complete, fit the battery to the vehicle (Installing the battery).
Right-hand and left-hand switches
Below is the key of the controls for the new Asahi Denso switches installed on the Monster 937:
• Switch (1) activates the “FLASH” control and the “Start/Stop Lap” function;
• Switch (2) controls the lights and has two positions: High and low beams
• Switch (3) controls the menu navigation and has two positions: UP and DOWN
• Switch (4) controls the warning horn;
• The switch (5) activates the menu “ENTER”/turn indicator function and has three positions: central position = turn indicator off or
menu confirmation (ENTER), “left” position = operates the left turn indicators, “right” position = operates the right turn indicators;
• Red switch (6) controls the engine start/stop and has three positions: Engine stop, engine enable, engine start;
• Switch (7) controls the button to enable/disable the DRL light, if present;
• Switch (8) controls enabling/disabling of the four turn indicators.
Transport Mode function
The “Transport Mode” function limits instrument panel operation, in particular:
- “Transport Mode” is displayed flashing in the instrument panel section devoted to setting menu; it is thus not possible to display
information and/or edit the different parameters.
- the Riding Mode changeover quick menu can only be accessed, but the relevant parameters cannot be edited.
Warning
The "Transport Mode" function is activated at Ducati at the end of line (EOL) and must be deactivated before motorcycle delivery to the
final Customer, during the pre-delivery phase.
Date and time setting
This function allows user to display and/or set/change the date and time. To set the date, select “DATE AND TIME” from the setting
menu by pressing button (3a) or (3b); once the function is highlighted, press button (5) to confirm.
Select “Set date” and press with button (5) to confirm; when this indication is highlighted, the instrument panel displays the date set in
the format: YEAR, MONTH, DAY.
Note
If the date has never been set, the year, month and day will be “- -”.
If the date is not correct, the instrument panel shows "Wrong" for three seconds and then automatically highlights the year value (with
the two arrows) to set again another date.
To set the time, select “DATE AND TIME” from the setting menu by pressing button (3a) or (3b); once the function is highlighted, press
button (5).
Select “Set time” and press with button (5) to confirm; when this indication is highlighted, the instrument panel displays the time set in
the format: HOUR, MINUTE, AM/PM.
Warning
Every time the battery is disconnected, the date and time are reset and must be set again.
Setting the units of measurement
This function allows changing the units of measurement of the displayed values.
Enter the setting menu, use buttons (3a) or (3b) to select “Measurements units” and press button (5) to confirm.
When opening this function, the instrument panel displays the following indications:
- Speed;
- Temperature;
- Consumption;
- Default (visible only if one or more parameters have been modified).
The quantities for which it is possible to set the units of measurement are:
Speed Temperature Fuel consumption
km/h - mph °C - °F L/100km - km/L - mpg (UK) - mpg (USA)
Vehicle maintenance schedule
The maintenance schedule described in this bulletin is the one that will be communicated to Customers through all Ducati
communication channels. We are confident that you will cooperate in respecting the times and operations indicated for the various
scheduled maintenance services.
The types of service provided for this model are:
First Service To be carried out after the first 1,000 km/600 mi and in any case within 6 months of the motorcycle delivery to the
1000 Customer.
To be carried out for the first time at 15,000 km/9,000 mi and then every 15,000 km/9,000 mi or after 12 months from
Oil Service / the last performed service and then every 12 months.
Annual
Service The type of service to be carried out depends on the first threshold reached, i.e.: either mileage (Oil Service) or time
(Annual Service).
Interventions It must be performed the first time at 30,000km/18,000mi and then every 30,000 km/18,000 mi.
Desmo
Service The Desmo Service does not include the operations already performed in the Oil Service/Annual Service. The Desmo
Service could be due and therefore carried out at the same time of the Oil Service/Annual Service.
Below are the specified time intervals for the different types of service:
Type of scheduled maintenance Time
FIRST SERVICE 1000 1h:00min (10 LU)
OIL SERVICE 15000 1h:48min (18 LU)
ANNUAL SERVICE 1h:48min (18 LU)
DESMO SERVICE operations 3h:42min (37 LU)
OIL SERVICE + DESMO SERVICE operations 4h:48min (48 LU)
ANNUAL SERVICE + DESMO SERVICE operations 4h:48min (48 LU)
In addition to the prescribed times, we also indicate the time expected to be required for the main additional operations that can be
performed during the services:
Intervention Type Time
Brake and clutch fluid (every 24 months) 36min (6 LU)
Front fork fluid (every 45,000 Km/27,000 mi) 1h:30min (15 LU)
Change coolant
42min (7 LU) *
(every 45,000km/27,000mi or every 48 months)
* time not to be summed during the Desmo Service
Below are the specified time intervals for the different types of service:
FIRST SERVICE 1000 1h:00min (10 LU)
Following are all the operations to be performed during the First Service 1000:
• Read the error memory with DDS 3.0 and check the technical updates and recall campaigns on DCS;
• Change engine oil and filter
• Visually check the front fork and rear shock absorber seals
• Check brake and clutch fluid level
• Check chain, rear sprocket and sprocket wear and check final drive chain tension, lubrication and stretch. Measured stretching
value:______________ (cm) (in)
• Check the freedom of movement and tightening of the side stand
• Check that all rubber gaiters and visible hoses (i.e. fuel, brake and clutch, cooling system, bleed, drain hoses, etc.) are not cracked,
are tight and correctly seated
• Check rear brake lever free play and handlebar lever and pedal control lubrication
• Check the free play of clutch lever to cable (if any)
• Check tyre pressure and wear
• Check the operation of all electric safety devices (side stand and clutch sensor, front and rear brake switches, engine kill switch,
gear/neutral sensor)
• Check lights, turn indicators, horn and controls
• Final test and road test of the motorcycle, testing safety devices (ex. ABS, DTC and VHC), electric fans and idling
• Visually check the coolant level and sealing of the circuit
• Softly clean the motorcycle
• Registration of the service coupon with Service warning light turning off on instrument panel with DDS 3.0 and filling in of the
service coupon in the Service Booklet
OIL SERVICE 15000 / ANNUAL SERVICE 1h:48min (18 LU)
Following are all the operations to be performed during the Oil Service / Annual Service:
• Reading of the error memory with DDS 3.0 and check of technical updates and recall campaigns on DCS
• Change engine oil and filter
• Check and clean air filter
• Visually check the front fork and rear shock absorber seals
• Check brake and clutch fluid level
• Check front and rear brake disc and pad wear •
• Check the tightening of brake calliper screws, brake disc screws and front and rear wheel nuts
• Check front and rear wheel nuts and rear sprocket nut tightening
• Check for proper tightening of engine to frame, swinging arm and rear shock absorber fasteners
• Check wheel hub bearings
• Check chain, rear sprocket and sprocket wear and check final drive chain tension, lubrication and stretch. Measured stretching
value:______________ (cm) (in)
• Check steering tube bearing clearance •
• Check the freedom of movement and tightening of the side stand
• Check that all rubber gaiters and visible hoses (i.e. fuel, brake and clutch, cooling system, bleed, drain hoses, etc.) are not cracked,
are tight and correctly seated
• Check rear brake lever free play and handlebar lever and pedal control lubrication
• Check the free play of clutch lever to cable (if any)
• Check tyre pressure and wear
• Check the operation of all electric safety devices (side stand and clutch sensor, front and rear brake switches, engine kill switch,
• Check lights, turn indicators, horn and controls
Note
When turning off the Oil Service/Annual Service indication on the instrument panel through the DDS 3.0, the new deadlines, in time and
mileage, will be stored at +15,000 km / 9,000 mi and +12 months, respectively.
DESMO SERVICE operations

3h:42min (37 LU)
(does not include the operations to be performed in the Oil Service/Annual Service)
Following are all the operations to be performed during the Desmo Service:
• Reading of the error memory with DDS 3.0 and check of technical updates and recall campaigns on DCS
• Change air filter
• Change timing belts
• Check and/or adjust valve clearance
• Change spark plugs
• Change coolant
• Check rear brake disc screw tightening (by removing the rear wheel shaft if brake disc fastening screws with hexagon wrench flat
are present)
• Check silentblocs on rear sprocket and lubricate the rear wheel shaft
Note
When turning off the Desmo Service Operations indication on the instrument panel through the DDS 3.0, the new deadline will be stored
as mileage + 30,000 km/18,000 mi.
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the dealer
Warning
This scheduled maintenance chart is designed for a road use of the vehicle. If it is used on the track, even if not during sport
competitions, all parts of the motorcycle are more stressed so the routine maintenance operations must be carried out more frequently
than indicated.
Annual Service *
Desmo Service*
Oil Service *
First Service 1000 *
Reading of the error memory with DDS 3.0 and check of technical updates and recall campaigns on DCS • • • 12
Change engine oil and filter • • 24
Check and clean air filter • 12
Change air filter •
Check and/or adjust valve clearance •
Change spark plugs •
Change coolant • 48
every 45,000
Change front fork fluid
km/27,000 mi
Visually check the front fork and rear shock absorber seals • • 12
Check brake and clutch fluid level • • 12
Change brake and clutch fluid 24
Check front and rear brake disc and pad wear • 12
Check front and rear brake calliper screw and front brake disc screw tightening • 12
Check rear brake disc screw tightening (by removing the rear wheel shaft if brake disc fastening screws with
•
hexagon wrench flat are present)
Check front and rear wheel nuts and rear sprocket nut tightening • 12
Check for proper tightening of engine to frame, swinging arm and rear shock absorber fasteners • 12
Check wheel hub bearings • 12
Check silentblocs on rear sprocket and lubricate the rear wheel shaft •
Check chain, rear sprocket and sprocket wear and check final drive chain tension, lubrication and stretch.
Measured stretching value:______________ (cm) (in)
• • 12
Note
It is recommended to change the final drive chain kit within 20,000 km/12,000 mi.
Annual Service *
Desmo Service*
Oil Service *
First Service 1000 *
Check steering tube bearing clearance • 12
Check the freedom of movement and tightening of the side stand • • 12
Check that all rubber gaiters and visible hoses (i.e. fuel, brake and clutch, cooling system, bleed, drain hoses, etc.)
• • 12
are not cracked, are tight and correctly seated
Check rear brake lever free play and handlebar lever and pedal control lubrication • • 12
Check the free play of clutch lever to cable (if any) • • 12
Check tyre pressure and wear • • 12
Check the operation of all electric safety devices (side stand and clutch sensor, front and rear brake switches,
• • 12
engine kill switch, gear/neutral sensor)
Check lights, turn indicators, horn and controls • • 12
Final test and road test of the motorcycle, testing safety devices (e.g. ABS and DTC), electric fans and idling • • • 12
Visually check the coolant level and sealing of the circuit • • • 12
Softly clean the motorcycle • • • 12
Registration of the service coupon with Service warning light turning off on instrument panel with DDS 3.0 and
• • • 12
filling in of the service coupon in the Service Booklet
* The First Service 1000 must be carried out after the first 1,000 km/600 mi or within 6 months from bike delivery to the Customer.
* The Oil Service must be carried out every 15,000 km/9,000 mi or every 24 months.
* The Desmo Service must be carried out every 30,000 km/18,000 mi.
* The Annual Service must be carried out every 12 months.
In case of off-road use, it is necessary to perform the maintenance operations more frequently than scheduled.
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer
List of operations and type of intervention km. x1,000 1

(set mileage (km/mi) or time interval*)
mi. x1,000 0.6
Months 6
Check engine oil level •
Check brake fluid level •
Check tyre pressure and wear •
Check the drive chain tension and lubrication •
Check brake pads •
* Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or months), whichever occurs
first.
Check engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the inspection sight glass (1) on the clutch cover side.
To correctly check the oil level, carefully follow the operations described below.
1) The oil level should be checked with the warm engine, about 15 minutes after engine has been switched off.
2) Switch off the engine and wait 10-15 minutes to allow the oil to fully flow back into the sump.
3) Position the bike on level ground with both wheels resting on the ground and in vertical position.
4) Now check the oil level through the sight glass (1).
5) If the oil level is below the centreline of the two MIN and MAX marks, oil must be topped up.
6) To do this, remove the filler plug (2) and top up with the specified oil until reaching the MAX mark.
USA, CANADA, ITALY version

Ducati recommends the use of only SAE 15W-50/JASO MA2 oil and suggests the use of Shell Advance DUCATI 15W-50 Fully Synthetic
Oil.
Other country version

Ducati recommends the use of only SAE 15W-50/JASO MA2 oil and suggests the use of Shell Advance 4T Ultra 15W-50 oil (JASO:
MA2 and API: SN).
Refit the filler plug (2).

Recommendations concerning oil
It is recommended to use oil complying with the following specifications:
- viscosity grade SAE 15W-50;

- standard API: SN;
- standard JASO: MA2.
SAE 15W-50 is an alphanumerical code identifying oil class based on viscosity: two figures with a W ("winter") in-between; the first figure
indicates oil viscosity at low temperature; the second figure indicates its viscosity at high temperature. API (American standard) and
JASO (Japanese standard) standards specify oil characteristics.
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Service operation
Change engine oil and filter First Service 1000 - Oil Service
Time (months) 24
Note
This operation has to be carried out with hot engine (but turned off) because the oil in these conditions is more fluid and comes out
faster and completely.
Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Disposal
Do not dispose of the waste into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted, inside drains, water courses or the
soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national
standards. European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: EWC 13 02
05* (Mineral-based non-chlorinated engine, gear and lubricating oils): EWC 16 01 07* (Oil filters).
Note
Changing the engine oil
Remove the drain plug (1) with gasket (2) from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain off.
Remove any metal deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (1).
Apply the recommended product to the plug thread (1).

Tighten plug (1) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm – max. 22 Nm).
Changing the cartridge filter
Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (3) using a commercial tool.
Important
Dispose of the used filter, do not re-use it.
Fit a new cartridge (3), using a commercial tool, tightening it to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 12 Nm - Max. 14 Nm): lubricate seal with engine
oil.
Note
It is advisable to refill the filter cartridge with engine oil before fitting it: this enables the recommended oil level to be maintained without
topping up.
Changing the mesh filter
Every two oil changes, clean the oil intake mesh filter.
Loosen outer plug (4) and collect seal (5).
Loosen the filtering element (6) and slide it out.
Loosen lower plug (7) and collect seal (8).

Clean the duct and use fuel and compressed air to clean the mesh filter, taking care not to damage the mesh.
Lubricate mesh filter thread (6) with the specified product.

Refit mesh filter (6) and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Insert seal (5) in plug (4) with the cutting edge facing the crankcase.
Position seal (8) inside hole and apply the specified product to the intake service plug (7).
Fill the lubrication circuit (Checking engine oil level).
Check that there are no oil leaks and that the warning light on the instrument panel switches off a few seconds after starting up the
engine. If not, stop the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check that the oil level is the specified one; if necessary, restore the MAX. level (Checking engine oil level).
Checking valve clearance
Service operation
Check and/or adjust valve clearance Desmo service
Remove the seat (Removing the seat).

Remove the fuel tank (Removing the fuel tank).
Empty the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Horizontal Head
Loosen clamp (1) and disconnect hose (2) from the radiator.
Empty the coolant into a container during the operation.
Release the radiator (3) from the support (4).
On both sides of the vehicle, loosen the screw (5) from the vibration damper (6).
Move the radiator apart just enough to reach the horizontal head.
Remove the side screw (9) securing the horizontal head.
Remove clamp (7) and disconnect the secondary air system hose.
Loosen the screw (10) and remove coil (11).

Loosen the screws (12) and remove the head (13).
Loosen the two screws (B) and remove the timing inspection cover (C).
Fit the tool (D) part no. 88765.1635 in the holes of the generator cover to be able to turn the crankshaft so that the valve on which the
check is carried out is in rest position and the relevant piston at the top dead centre.
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the opening rocker arm and the lowest point of the camshaft lobe, taking care not to
compress the rocker arm return spring.
After measuring / replacing the opening shims, proceed with the closing ones.
Important
Hold the feeler gauge at a distance of at least 4-5 cm from the point of measurement between cam and rocker arm.
Important
During this operation, press on the camshaft perpendicularly to the head surface to keep it in seat.
The value must be within the prescribed ones (Timing system/valves).
Reference Values
Opening rocker arm - intake 0.13÷0.18 mm (assembly value) /0.10÷0.25 mm (check/restoring value)
Opening rocker arm - exhaust 0.13÷0.18 mm (assembly value) / 0.10÷0.25 mm (check/restoring value)
Closing rocker arm - intake 0.05÷0.10 mm (assembly value) / 0.05÷0.15 mm (check/restoring value)
Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0.05÷0.10 mm (assembly value) / 0.05÷0.15 mm (check/restoring value)
If not so, remove the opening shim (Removing the valves), and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed clearance.
Refit the head (13) and start screws (12) and (9).
Tighten the screws (12) and (9) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 - Max.11).
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the screw (10). A maximum of three removal/refitting operations is
recommended.
Insert coil (11).
Tighten screw (10) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 - Max.11).
Insert the secondary air hose (8) by fixing it with the tie (7).
Fasten the radiator (3) to the lower side by inserting it in the bracket (4).
On both sides of the vehicle, tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Insert the hose (2) in the radiator and fix it by tightening clamp (1) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Vertical Head
Turn the crankshaft so that the valve on which the check is carried out is in rest position and the relevant piston at the top dead centre.
Slide off the wiring (A) so that the vertical head can be removed.
Remove clamp (14) and disconnect the secondary air system hose (15).
Loosen the screws (18) and the side screw (20).

Remove the head (19).
Important
Important
Reference Values
recommended.
Insert coil (17).
Remove tool (D) part no. 88765.1635.
Refit the timing inspection cover (C) with its gasket.

Start the screws (B) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 - Max. 5.5).
Fill the lubrication system (Changing the coolant)
Refit the fuel tank (Refitting the fuel tank).
Refit the seat (Refitting the seat).
Change spark plugs
Service operation
Change spark plugs Desmo service
Warning
Do not dispose of waste components into the environment.
Disposal
Decision No 2001/118/EC: EWC 16 01 22 (components not otherwise specified).
Note
Check the colour of the ceramic insulation around the central electrode: an even, light brown colour indicates the engine is in good
condition and running at the right temperature.
Check central electrode for wear.
Warning
Do not use spark plugs with inadequate heat rating or incorrect thread length.
The spark plug must be securely installed.
If a spark plug is loose, it can overheat and damage the engine.
Spark plug type

Make: NGK
Type: MAR9A-J

Horizontal Head
Loosen and replace the spark plug.
recommended.
Insert coil (8).
Vertical Head

Loosen and replace the spark plug.
recommended.
Insert coil (10).
Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant)

Changing and cleaning the air filters
Service operation
Check and clean air filter Oil Service - Annual Service (12)
Change air filter Desmo Service

Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits on the spark
plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter as impurities in the air could get into the engine and cause damage.
Note
Do not dispose of replaced filters into the environment.
Disposal
If filtering element is replaced, do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres.
Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local and national standards.
European Waste Catalogue Codes recommended for waste disposal as indicated by Decision No 2001/118/EC: EWC 15 02 02*
(Absorbents, filter materials (including oil filters not otherwise specified), wiping cloths, protective clothing contaminated by dangerous
substances).
Note
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more frequently.
Remove the two connectors (1) to the ECU.

Loosen screws (2) fastening the ECU and keep washers (3). Remove the ECU.
Loosen the six screws (4) securing air filter cover (5) to the airbox upper shell (7).
Slide out the air filter (6).
The filter can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or replaced, if necessary.
Fit the air sensor (6) on the airbox upper cover (7), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Position the air filter cover (5) on the airbox upper cover (7) and start the screws (22) in the positions shown in the figure.
Tighten the six screws (4) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%, following the sequence shown in the figure.
Refit the ECU and start the screws (2) by placing washer (3) in-between.
Connect the connectors (1).

Checking coolant level
Periodically check the coolant level in the expansion tank (1) on the right side of the vehicle.
The coolant level must be between the MAX. and MIN marks on the reservoir.
If the level is low, top up with the recommended coolant.
For optimal operating conditions (coolant mixture starting to freeze at ‑20 °C), the recommended coolant should be mixed with water in
the following percentages:
ANTIFREEZE: 35÷40% of the volume;
WATER: 65÷60% of the volume.
Important
Very hard water with a high mineral salt content can damage the engine.
Increase the amount of antifreeze to up to 55% volume in the case of very cold climates.
Important
A solution with a percentage of antifreeze lower than 30% does not provide an adequate protection against corrosion.
Change coolant
Service operation
Change coolant Desmo Service - Annual Service (48)
Warning
Make sure the engine is cold before proceeding. Attempting to change the coolant with the engine hot could lead to burns from hot
coolant or scalding steam.
Warning
Do not dispose of coolant into the environment.
Disposal
Do not dispose of the waste into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted, inside drains, water courses or the
soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres.
(Antifreeze fluids containing dangerous substances).
Note
Place a container under the engine and set the motorcycle on its side stand.
Loosen and remove the filler cap (1).
Loosen plug (2) and the relevant seal.

Allow the coolant to drain off completely.
Once the cooling circuit has been emptied, tighten the plug (2) with its NEW seal to a torque of 15 Nm (Min.13.5 - Max.16.5).
Proceed by filling the circuit and wait several minutes for the coolant to fill all the internal passages.
Close the filler cap (1).
Start the engine and wait for the coolant to reach 110 °C; run the engine for about 10 minutes.
Stop the engine and allow it to cool down so that all the air is expelled from the circuit.
Warning
Keep your hands, clothing and tools well clear of the radiator fan at all times; this fan starts automatically without warning and could
cause serious injury or damage.
Important
Check the circuit for possible leaks.
Top up the coolant through the expansion reservoir filler to bring the level up to the "MAX" mark.
Changing the fluid in the front brake system
Service operation
Check brake and clutch fluid level First Service 1000 - Oil Service
Changing the fluid in the front brake system Annual Service (24)
Guided diagnosis for front brake system bleeding (“Diagram for front brake system bleeding”).
Note
Some of the figures shown in the following procedure are indicative only with reference to the type of material, shape or colour, but are
important for assembly, disassembly and adjustment procedures.
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with
water.
Remove the cover (1) with membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (2) by undoing the screws (3).
Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Refit the membrane (without the plug) on the reservoir to avoid brake fluid splashes during the following operations.
Move the brake calliper pistons back: to carry out this operation undo without removing the fixing screws (4) of the callipers on the fork
bottom end and push both pads of every calliper, taking them apart; during this operation, be careful with the fluid level, which must
always be sucked out each time it flows back in the reservoir. Tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%.
Once that all pistons of both callipers are fully moved back and that all the fluid in the tank has been sucked out, connect to the bleed
valve (5) a transparent tube by immersing the end in a container placed on the floor.
Fill the reservoir (2) with new fluid up to the MAX level.
Pull the lever to make a 20 - 30 mm stroke and keep the lever in this position using a non-elastic clamp.
Loosen the bleed valve of the left-hand calliper (as seen by the rider) (5) and then take the lever through the whole stroke to allow fluid
to flow out.
The lever is resting against the handgrip.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) and then let go of lever.

Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely.
Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed to the specified torque actuate repeatedly the lever until a pressure is detected in the brake
system.
Warning
After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to avoid any air
bubbles in the circuit.
Warning
Note
Disposal
Do not dispose of the exhausted fluid into the environment; do not pour the product, either new or exhausted, inside drains, water
courses or the soil. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres. Dispose of waste in compliance with the prevailing local
and national standards.
(Mineral-based non-chlorinated engine, gear and lubricating oils).
Note
With this procedure, the front brake system callipers are still filled with fluid; if callipers have to be drained as well, move back calliper
pistons by keeping the bleeding tool (if available) working and connected to bleed valve.
Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid taken from an intact container until reaching the MAX level.
Operate brake lever and keep it activated during the whole filling operation.
Connect it to left-hand front brake calliper bleed valve (5).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
Suck with the bleeding tool and open the bleed valve (5) making sure that the level of the concerned reservoir does not fall below the
sight glass.
Continue this operation until all air is bled out of system.
Close the bleed valve (5).
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (5) as outlined in the draining
procedure.
Operate the lever to half stroke or until system is pressurised, open bleed valve (5) and operate lever to full stroke; tighten bleed valve to
the specified torque and release lever.
Important
Do not release the brake lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid inside system is free of air bubbles; once filling is completed, proceed to bleeding by
working on both valves (5) from front brake callipers.
Make sure that, with bleed valves duly closed, pressure is correctly developed through brake lever or pedal.
Close the bleed valve (5) and install the protection caps.
Refit cover (1) by tightening screws (3) on reservoir (2).
Changing the fluid in the rear brake system
Service operation
Changing the fluid in the front brake system Annual Service (24)
Note
Set the vehicle on the rear service stand.

Loosen the screw (1) and remove the rear wheel speed sensor (2).
Loosen the two screws (3) and remove the rear calliper (4).
Route the rear calliper hose/wiring as shown in the figure.
Set the bleed valve upwards as this position facilitates the natural outflow of any air from the system.
Insert a wrench between the pads as shown in the figure.
Connect a transparent plastic hose to the bleed valve.

Remove the cover (5) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (6). Make sure that the brake fluid level inside the reservoir reaches the MAX
level; top up, if necessary.
Operate the rear brake lever and open the bleed valve while holding the lever actuated.
Quickly pump about seven times with the rear brake lever, bringing it fully home. The lever, starting from the "completely released"
position, must go through its stroke and reach its limit position (fully home).
Make sure the fluid reservoir (6) does not become empty.
Tighten bleed valve again during the last delivery stroke of the brake lever (and not in the release phase).
Top up fluid until restoring maximum level.
Operate the brake pedal to pressurise the circuit.

If this is not the case, repeat the procedure just described.
Hold the rear brake lever in "fully home" position.
While holding the rear brake lever in the above-specified position, open the bleed valve.
Keep the rear brake lever still firmly in the "fully home" position and, with the bleed valve opened, reposition the wrench between the
pads and operate the rear brake lever to reach its limit stop.
Quickly pump about seven times with the rear brake lever, bringing it fully home. The lever, starting from the "completely released"
position, must go through its stroke and reach its limit position (fully home).
Make sure the fluid reservoir (6) does not become empty.
Tighten bleed valve again during the last delivery stroke of the brake lever (and not in the release phase).
Top up fluid until restoring maximum level.
Operate the brake pedal to pressurise the circuit.

Repeat the whole bleeding procedure just described for at least 3 times and in any case until air bubbles outflowing from bleed valve are
no longer frequent.
Apply the specified product to both screws (3).

Fit brake calliper (4) and start the two screws (3).
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5%.
Position the rear speed sensor (2) and start the screw (1).
Proceed with the Air-Gap check (“Adjusting the Air-Gap”).
Measure height (A) between rear brake lever bottom end and the bearing surface; the rear brake lever must be in rest condition.
Slowly apply a weight of approx. 8 kg on the rear brake lever; then measure height (B) between rear brake lever bottom and the bearing
surface.
Take note of the difference between measurements (A) and (B).

Rear brake lever travel X = (A) – (B).
Road test the motorcycle at approx. 50 Km/h and then operate the rear brake only to brake until the ABS is triggered for about 10 times.
Measure again the rear brake lever travel as already done previously.
Take note of the difference between measurements X1 = (A) and (B).
Compare the two measured values for the rear brake lever travel. If rear brake lever travel has increased, repeat the whole bleeding
procedure described here.
Once the new bleeding procedure is completed, make sure that rear brake lever travel has not increased.
Changing the clutch fluid
Service operation
Changing the clutch fluid Annual Service (24)
Warning
Clutch fluid is corrosive and will damage paint. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash thoroughly with
water.
Remove the cover (1) with the membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (2).
Siphon the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Refit the membrane (without the plug) on the reservoir to avoid brake fluid splashes during the following operations.
Once all the fluid in the reservoir has been sucked out, connect to the bleed valve (3) a transparent tube and immerse its end in a
container placed on the floor.
Fill the reservoir (2) with new fluid up to the MAX level.
Pull the lever to make a 20 - 30 mm stroke and keep the lever in this position using a non-elastic clamp.
Loosen the bleed valve of the clutch actuator (3) and then take the lever through the whole stroke to allow fluid to flow out.
The lever is resting against the handgrip.
Tighten the bleed valve (3) and then let go of lever.

Repeat the above operation until the old fluid flows out completely.
Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed, repeatedly pull the lever until a pressure is detected in the clutch system.
Warning
After draining the old fluid from the reservoir and while filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to avoid any air
bubbles in the circuit.
Warning
Note
Disposal
Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid taken from an intact container until reaching the MAX level.
Operate the clutch lever and keep it activated during the whole filling operation.
Repeat the operation until the fluid inside system is free of air bubbles.
Make sure that, with bleed valves duly closed, pressure is correctly developed through brake lever.
Close the bleed valve (3) and install the protection caps.
Refit the cover (1) on the reservoir (2).
Adjusting the steering head bearing play
Service operation
Check brake and clutch fluid level Oil Service - Annual Service (12)
Special tools
88713.1058 Wrench to fit steering tube plug
Excessive handlebar play or shaking fork in the steering head indicate that the play of the steering head bearings requires adjustment.
Proceed as follows:
Loosen the clamp screw (1) that holds the steering tube to the steering head.
From both sides of the vehicle, slacken the screw (2) securing the steering head to both fork leg clamps.
Using the special tool part no. 88713.1058 lock the ring nut (3) to a torque of 35 Nm ± 5%.
Push the steering head against the ring nut (3) and tighten the screw (1) to 18 Nm ±5% and screw (2) to 24 Nm ± 5%.
Adjusting the chain tension
Service operation
Check brake and clutch fluid level First Service - Oil Service - Annual Service (12)
Note
It is recommended to change the final drive chain kit within 20,000 km/12,000 mi.
FINAL DRIVE CHAIN MAINTENANCE PRECAUTIONS
The chains that are installed on the Ducati models are roller chains made according to ISO/DIN/BS standards and are made up of
internal links alternated with external links, connected to one another by pins.
The internal links (3) are made up of two plates connected to one another by means of a pair of bushes (2); a roller (1) is inserted in
each bush.
The external links (4) instead are made up of two external plates connected to one another by means of a pair of pins (5) and four O-
rings (6).
The O-rings have the double function to retain the incorporated lubricant and avoid infiltrations of foreign bodies in the pin-bush area.
This type of chains is characterised by two fundamental parameters:
• pitch length;
• link internal width.
These two values are expressed with a standardised numeric code consisting of three digits (example: 415, 420, 428, 520, 525, 530).
Note
In case of Regina chains, references other than the traditional ones are used.
According to the international reference, the first of the three numbers represents the pitch of chain (P), defined as the distance between
the centres of two consecutive pins.
Chain pitch is calculated by multiplying 1/8 of an inch by the first of the three digits engraved on the link (520):
P = 1/8” x 5 = 5/8”, hence chain pitch is 5/8”.
To obtain the pitch value in centimetres, it is necessary to multiply the value obtained in inches by the conversion factor 2.54: P = 5/8” x
2.54 = 1.5875 cm ➔ 1.59 cm.
Following is the summary table of the chain pitch values.
Regina reference International reference Chain pitch
54 - 90 - 124 - 125 - 126 415 - 420 - 425 - 428 1/2” = 1.2700 cm
135 - 136 - 136.2 - 137 520 - 525 - 530 - 532 5/8” = 1.5875 cm
138 – 138.2 630 – 632 3/4” = 1.9050 cm
According to the international reference, the second and third digits represent instead the internal width (W) of the chain; the higher this
number and the greater the distance between the two internal plates.
The internal width is calculated by multiplying 1/8 of an inch by the second and third digits (520) adding a point between the two digits
(2.0 - 2.5 - 3.0).
W = 1/8” x 2.0 = 1/4” = 1/4” x 2.54 = 0.635 cm.
In case of chain 530, the pitch is the same but the width is different: W = 1/8” x 3.0 = 3/8” = 3/8” x 2.54 = 0.952 cm.
Warning
By changing the internal distance between the links the space available for the gear teeth will change. Therefore, there must always be
a front sprocket and rear sprocket chain coupling with the same characteristics.
We remind you that it is not possible to install a chain 520 on a rear sprocket and front sprocket with pitch 530 or vice versa.
Statistically, it has been found out that the average useful life of a final drive chain is of approx. 20,000 km, if periodically maintained
following the indications stated inside the Owner's Manual.
To ensure the best performance and a long duration of the chain over time, you are required to follow the information relevant to chain
washing, lubrication, check and tensioning, indicated in the following sub-sections:
- washing the chain;

- lubricating the chain.
CHECKING THE CHAIN
It is necessary to frequently inspect the chain checking that there are no stiff joints, missing or damaged O-rings or other worn out
components (in particular the closing link).
Chain wear can be easily checked by measuring its elongation. If the chain exceeds the provided stretching limits, the kinematic
mechanism becomes unreliable, the pitch is no longer complied with and the chain could skip to the following teeth of the gear causing
its breakage, as a consequence.
To perform the final drive chain check follow the procedure below:
Note
Before performing the measurement clean and lubricate the drive chain correctly.
1) If the chain is installed on the motorbike, tension the upper and lower branch engaging a low gear and turning the rear wheel
clockwise or counter clockwise, respectively; if instead the chain is not installed on the motorbike, it is necessary to position it on a
horizontal surface fastening it at one end and tensioning it using a weight of approx. 20 Kg (44 lb) applied to the opposite end, as shown
in the figure.
2) Using a gauge or a precision millimetre rule, measure the distance between the centres of two pins distant to one another of a
number “N” of links.
Note
The number “N” of links is obtained by counting the pins. The “N” number of pins to be taken into account for the measurement depends
on the chain type.
Check that the detected measurement does not exceed the maximum admissible length value indicated in the following table:
Regina reference International reference N (number of pins) Maximum admissible length (chain with O-rings)
54 - 90 - 124 - 125 - 126 415 - 420 - 425 - 428 23 29.5000 cm (11.614 in)
135 - 136 - 136.2 - 137 520 - 525 - 530 - 532 16 25.6500 cm (10.098 in)
138 – 138.2 630 – 632 16 30.0780 cm (11.841 in)
The chain must be replaced if a higher value is detected.
Besides measuring the length, to perform a chain wear check it is possible to visually inspect the plates, pins, O-rings and bushes. In
case of:
- cracks on plates;
- cracks on pins;
- pin rotation;
- damaged O-rings;
- scoring on the surface of the rollers;
replace the drive chain.
ADJUSTING THE CHAIN TENSION
The correct tensioning of the chain is an extremely important factor for its duration and efficiency. Chain tension must be checked and
restored in case of use:
- on the road, after the first 100 km (62 mi) and then every 400 km (248 mi);
- off-road, after every use.
For the tensioning we remind you that the chain must be placed in its maximum tensioning condition. Then, it is possible to adjust the
chain by acting on the tensioning system.
An excessive chain tensioning could cause an increase of work load between the pins and the bushes, an overheating of the chain with
premature consumption of the lubricant and therefore its possible rapid wear.
Following are some events that may occur in case of wrong tensioning of the chain:
1) Formation of micro-cracks in the chain rollers that are not visible to the naked eye; by inspecting the chain it is possible to identify
some deep signs of scoring on the surface of the rollers.
2) Longitudinal breakage of the link due to an excessive stress.
3) Pin rotation.
Important
If drive chain is too tight or slack, adjust tension so as to bring values back to the specified range.
Make the rear wheel turn until you find the position where chain is tightest. Set the vehicle on the side stand. With a finger, push down
the chain at the point of measurement and release. Measure the distance (A) between the centre of the link pin (B) and the end of the
swinging arm lower chain sliding shoe (C), carefully positioning the meter. The value must be: A = 51 ÷ 53 mm (2.00 - 2.09 in).
Important
If drive chain is too tight or slack, adjust tension so as to bring values back to the specified range.
Important
An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to early wear of the transmission components.
Check the correspondence of the positioning marks, working on both sides of the swinging arm to ensure a perfect wheel alignment.
Warning
Correct tightening of swinging arm screws (2) is critical to rider and passenger safety.
Apply the indicated product on the thread of nut (1) and tighten it to a torque of 145 Nm ± 5%.
Apply the indicated product on the threads of adjusting screws (2) and tighten them to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
REPLACING THE CHAIN
To replace the final drive chain it is possible to use any dedicated generic tool, since it is not a specific tool sold directly by Ducati.
After removing the junction link of the chain follow the procedure below:
1) Using the fork of the old external link or joint link connect one end of the chain to be replaced with the new chain.
2) Slowly pull the other end of the old chain until winding the new chain around the front sprocket; carry on until the end of the new chain
is on the rear sprocket.
3) Remove the old fork together with the old chain and then:
- wind also the other end of the new chain around the rear sprocket so that the two ends are placed one after the other on two
consecutive teeth;
- take the new link to bend and check that the two O-rings resting on the plate are installed on the fork.
Note
In the specific case of Regina chains, particular O-rings may be used that, besides retaining the lubricant in a better way, have a definite
direction to be followed during installation.
The two special O-rings that must be inserted on the junction link must have the protruding side facing towards the inner link, as shown
in the figure.
- Insert the fork of the new link to be bent from the rear side of the chain avoiding any contact with the pins to avoid removing some of
the lubricant.
4) Position the other two new O-rings, one on each bush, then insert the closing plate.
Note
With special O-rings for Regina chains, these must be installed on the side opposite the junction link with the protruding side facing
outwards, as shown in the figure:
5) Rotate the rear wheel so that the link to be bent is placed at the chain lower branch, in a position that allows operating comfortably
with the chain closing tools.
6) Using the generic chain closing tool, tighten the pack in different steps (applying a higher tightening torque, if necessary) so as to
check that the value of the distance X between the two external links is within the range indicated in the table.
External plate distances (X) mm (in)
Min Max
Regina 530 ZRP B2 22.55 (8.88) 22.70 (8.94)
525 ZRPK 20.15 (7.93) 20.30 (7.99)

530 ZRPB 22.55 (8.88) 22.70 (8.94)
520 ZRDK 18.20 (7.16) 18.35 (7.22)
520 ORAW2 16.68 (6.57) 16.83 (6.62)
DID 525 HV3 19.50 (7.68) 19.70 (7.76)
525 HV2 19.50 (7.68) 19.70 (7.76)
520 V6 KAI 17.10 (6.73) 17.35 (6.83)
520 VP2-T 16.70 (6.57) 16.90 (6.65)
520 VF 16.46 (6.48) 16.66 (6.56)
525 HV3 19.50 (7.68) 19.70 (7.76)
525 VAZ 18.75 (7.38) 18.95 (7.46)
- if X is lower than the minimum value indicated in the table the link must be removed, the O-rings must be checked for damages
(replace them if necessary) and the operation must be repeated.
- if X is higher than the maximum value indicated in the table, tighten to a higher torque until obtaining the correct value indicated in the
table.
7) Still using the generic chain closing tool, bend the two pins in different steps (applying a higher tightening torque, if necessary) so as
to check that the value of the diameter Y of the two bent pins is within the range indicated in the table.
Pin diameter (Y) mm (in)
Min Max
Regina 530 ZRP B2 5.45 (2.15) 5.65 (2.22)
525 ZRPK 5.45 (2.15) 5.65 (2.22)
530 ZRPB 5.45 (2.15) 5.65 (2.22)

520 ZRDK 5.45 (2.15) 5.65 (2.22)
520 ORAW2 5.50 (2.16) 5.65 (2.22)
DID 525 HV3 5.50 (2.16) 5.80 (2.28)
525 HV2 5.55 (2.18) 5.75 (2.26)
520 V6 KAI 5.40 (2.13) 5.60 (2.20)
520 VP2-T 5.40 (2.13) 5.80 (2.28)
520 VF 5.45 (2.15) 5.80 (2.28)
525 HV3 5.50 (2.16) 5.80 (2.28)
525 VAZ 5.70 (2.25) 6.00 (2.36)
- if the detected Y value is lower than the minimum value indicated in the table, continue bending the two pins applying a higher
tightening torque until reaching the correct value.
- if the detected Y value is higher than the maximum value indicated in the table, remove the link, order a new link to be bent and repeat
the entire operation.
8) If points 6) and 7) are complied with, certify the closing link as shown in the figure.
Note
Check with a magnifying glass that there are no cracks on the round surface of the bent area, as shown in the figure.
FAQ (FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS)
1) When is it necessary to replace the final drive kit?
In case of:
- cracks on plates;
- cracks on pins;
- pin rotation;
- damaged O-rings;
- scoring on the surface of the rollers;
- wear of the front sprocket teeth;
- wear of the rear sprocket teeth;
- stretching of the drive chain beyond the allowed limit.
2) Which are the causes for excessive noise of the drive chain?
- Wrong tensioning (chain too taut or too slack);

- Insufficient lubrication;
- Incorrect alignment between front sprocket and rear sprocket;
- Incorrect dimensional correspondence between chain, front sprocket and rear sprocket;
- Shocks or scraping of the chain on parts of the vehicle;
- Wear of the front sprocket or rear sprocket;
- Wear of the chain;
- Wear, breakage or misalignment of other drive components.
3) Which are the causes for excessive oscillation of the drive chain?
- Wrong chain tensioning (chain too taut or too slack);

- Uneven wear of chain, front sprocket or rear sprocket;
- Presence of stiff joints.
4) Which are the causes for a possible skipping of the chain on front/rear sprocket teeth?
- Excessive wear of the front sprocket or rear sprocket;

- Excessive stretching of the chain caused by wear;
- Insufficient chain tensioning;
- Incorrect positioning of sliding shoes, chain guide or tensioners;
- Bent, corrugated, damaged gear wheels or with wrong dimensions;
- Presence of foreign bodies between the chain and the gear wheels.
5) Which are the causes for wear of the front sprocket only on one side and of the rear sprocket on the opposite side?
- Incorrect alignment between front sprocket and rear sprocket.
6) Which are the causes of possible stiffening of the joints of the drive chain?
- Excessive chain tensioning;

- Oxidation of chain joints;
- Undersized chain with respect to the loads to which it is subjected;
- Breakage or loss of O-rings;
- Incorrect assembly;
- Foreign material (sand, mud) on the chain joints.
7) Which are the causes of a possible breakage of chain pins, rollers or bushes?
- Excessive loads or loads applied too violently;

- Excessive wear of the front sprocket or rear sprocket;
- Excessive stretching of the chain caused by wear;
- Wrong chain tensioning;
- Incorrect dimensional ratio between chain, front sprocket and rear sprocket;
- Number of front sprocket teeth lower than the minimum recommended;
- Presence of foreign bodies between the chain and the gear wheels.
8) Which are the causes of a possible breakage of the drive chain links?
- Shocks or scraping of the chain on parts of the vehicle;

- Excessive chain tensioning;
- Presence of foreign bodies between the chain and the gear wheels;
- Significant misalignment between front sprocket and rear sprocket;
- Undersized chain with respect to the loads to which it is subjected;
- Corrosion caused by foreign agents (battery acid, fuel or other fluids).
Checking front brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Service operation
Disposal
Decision No 2001/118/EC: EWC 16 01 12 (Brake pads, other than those mentioned under item 16 01 11).
Note
Warning
water.
Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the Customer that the front brake must be used gently for the first
100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Check through the calliper slot and make sure that the friction material on pads (1) is visible.
Change both pads if friction material thickness of even just one pad is about 1 mm (0.039 in).
Important
Change both pads even if just one of them is worn.
Note
Work in the same way on both front brake callipers.
Warning
Friction material wear beyond this limit would lead to metal support contact with the brake disc thus compromising braking efficiency,
disc integrity and rider safety.
Loosen the two screws (1) and remove calliper from disc.
Remove the safety split pin (2).
Turn shaft (3) clockwise and slide it out.
Remove the spring (4).
Force the calliper pistons back into their seats by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Remove the worn pads (5).
Note
Change pads that have a shiny or "vitrified" appearance.
Warning
Do not dispose of brake pads into the environment.
Disposal
Note
Fit the new pads and their spring (4) making sure to position it as shown.
Fit the pad retaining pin (3) and fasten it with safety split pin (2).
Pre-tighten screws (1) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%, then tighten them to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5%.
Turn the pad retaining pin (3) counter clockwise.
Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid pressure.
Check that the level in the master cylinder reservoir (6) is between the "MAX" and "MIN" marks.
If necessary, top up by loosening the two screws (7) and removing cover (8), until reaching the "MAX" level.
Being the brake callipers a safety component of the motorcycle, follow instructions indicated in "Removing the front brake system".
Close cover (8) and tighten the two screws (7).
Checking rear brake pad wear and replacing brake pads
Service operation
Check through the slot between the two calliper halves, and make sure that at least 1 mm of the friction material on pads is visible.
Important
Change both pads even if just one of them is worn.
Change the brake pads as follows.

Remove the snap ring (8) from the pad retaining pin (9).
Slide pad retaining pin (9) outwards.
Remove pad retaining clip (10) from between the two calliper halves.
Remove the rear brake calliper by loosening the screws (11).

Force the calliper pistons back into their seats by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Remove the worn pads (12).
Fit the new pads.
Warning
Do not dispose of brake pads into the environment.
Disposal
Note
Refit rear brake calliper, then start and tighten the screws (11) to a torque of 25Nm ±5%.
Insert pad retaining clip (10) and centring pin (9), locking it in place with ring (8).
Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads firmly bed in against the disc thanks to the brake fluid pressure.
Check that the fluid level inside reservoir (6) is between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks.
If this is not the case, unscrew the plug (5) of reservoir cover (6) and top up.
Being the brake callipers a safety component of the motorcycle, follow instructions indicated in “Removing the front brake system”,
“Removing the entire rear brake control”.
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever
Clutch lever
Lever (1) disengages the clutch. It features a dial adjuster (2) for lever distance from the handgrip on the handlebar.
The lever distance can be adjusted through 10 clicks of the dial (2). Turn clockwise to increase lever distance. Turn the adjuster counter
clockwise to decrease lever distance. When the clutch lever (1) is operated, drive from the engine to the gearbox is stopped and drive
wheel is disengaged. Using the clutch properly is essential to smooth riding, especially when moving OFF.
Attention
Any adjustment of clutch and brake levers must only be carried out when motorcycle is stationary.
Important
Using the clutch properly will avoid damage to transmission parts and spare the engine.
Note
The engine can be started with the side stand down and the gearbox in neutral. If starting with a gear engaged, pull in the clutch lever (in
this case the side stand must be up).
Brake control lever
Pull in the lever (1) towards the handgrip to operate the front brake. The system is hydraulically operated and you just need to pull the
lever gently. The brake lever (1) has a dial adjuster (2) for adjusting the distance between lever and handgrip. The lever distance can be
adjusted through 10 clicks of the dial (2). Turn clockwise to increase the distance of the lever from the throttle handgrip. Turn the
adjuster counter clockwise to decrease lever distance.
Warning
Set front brake lever when motorcycle is stopped.
Adjusting the position of the gearchange pedal and rear brake pedal
GEAR CHANGE PEDAL
The position of the gear change and rear brake pedals in relation to the footpegs can be adjusted to suit the preferred riding position.
To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows:
Slacken nut (1) and loosen screw (2).
Turn rod (3) to reach the required position.
Start screw (2) and check for the correct position. Tighten screw (2) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% by counter-holding nut (4) on the
opposite side.
BRAKE PEDAL
Loosen the lock nut (1) and adjust the height of the rear brake pedal by acting on the brake master cylinder rod (2).
Once the height has been adjusted, tighten the lock nut (1) to a torque of 5 ± 10% Nm by counter-holding the brake master cylinder rod
(2).
Move the adjuster dowel (A) to position (X) = 1.7 0-0.2 mm (0.0600 0-0.008 in).
Apply product at the blue coloured point as shown in the figure.
Adjusting the rear shock absorber
The rear shock absorber has adjusters that enable you to suit the setting to the load on the motorcycle. The ring nut (1), located in the
shock absorber upper side, adjusts the external spring preload. To change the spring preload, turn the ring nut (1) by positioning the ring
nut cam in correspondence with the reference point (2). There are five cams on the ring nut and they correspond to the positions that
can be set for preload calibration: turning anticlockwise INCREASES preload, while turning clockwise DECREASES it. The standard
Calibration is present when the reference point (2) of the shock absorber is positioned in the third cam of the ring nut.
Cleaning the work surfaces
Important
If this operation is carried out by working directly on the engine installed on vehicle, thus not on the single overhauled component on
bench, make sure to duly protect all the cavities inside which residues of the removed sealant could fall.
Use a copper or plastic bristled brush (1) to remove sealant from the mating surface (2).
Refine cleaning by removing any sealant residues with an abrasive sponge (3) on the mating surface (2).
Complete cleaning of the mating surface (2) using a commercial degreasing detergent (4) for mechanical parts.
Applying the sealant
Important
Make sure that mating surfaces are perfectly clean and degreased to make sealant adhesion easier.
Apply an even and continuous bead (5) of the indicated product, using the dispenser and spreading as much sealant as required along
the profiles of mating surfaces (2), as shown in the figure.
Using a steel spatula (6), or alternatively a blade feeler gauge, make sure to clean it immediately after use, spread the sealing paste (5)
on the mating surface (2), covering the entire surface evenly without exceeding the quantity.
Any excess product could cause, during assembly, the formation of residues that could detach and fall inside engine.
Removing the rear-view mirrors
Loosen the screw (1) and remove it collecting the relevant washer.
Remove the LH rear-view mirror (2).
Repeat the same procedure with RH rear-view mirror.
Warning
The screw features a left-hand thread: loosen it clockwise.
Refitting the rear-view mirrors
recommended.
Position the LH rear-view mirror (2) and after starting washer on screw (1) tighten screw to a torque of 25 Nm ± 10%.
Follow the same procedure for the RH rear-view mirror.
Warning
The screw features a left-hand thread: tighten it counter clockwise.
Removing the instrument panel assembly
Loosen the two screws (1) and remove the headlight fairing (2).
Loosen the two screws (3) and collect the two relevant washers.
Remove the Plexiglas (4).
Loosen the four screws (5) and remove the support bracket (6) from the instrument panel bracket (7).
Refitting the instrument panel assembly
Pre-fit the two M5 clips (9) and the rubber block (10) on the support bracket (8).
Fit the support bracket (6) on the instrument panel bracket (7) with the four screws (5) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Cut out the template (A) and position it over the support bracket (8).
Note
Make the two lines above the upper tabs of the template (A) coincide with the line cut above the support bracket (8).
Remove the protective film (B) on the rear side of the Ducati shield (C).
Apply the Ducati shield (C) to the support bracket (8) by inserting it into the opening of the template (A) and apply even pressure to
ensure that it adheres perfectly.
Warning
During this operation, take special care not to touch the adhesive surfaces of the Ducati shield (C) with your fingers.
Remove the template (A) from the support bracket (8).
Position the Plexiglas (4) on the headlight fairing by engaging the recesses on the relevant hooking teeth as shown in the figure.
Insert the two screws (3) with their two washers on the headlight fairing and, on the other side, start the two flexible nuts on the threads
of the screws and tighten them at a torque of 0.2 Nm.
Fit the complete headlight fairing (2) on the support bracket, start the two screws (1) and tighten to a torque of 3 Nm.
Removing the seat
Insert key (1) inside lock and turn it clockwise.

Lift the seat (2) from the front side by pulling the rear tabs (A) out of housings (B).
Removing the passenger seat / seat cover
Loosen the central screw (3) and pull out the passenger seat (4) from the front side (or passenger seat cover for Plus version).
Refitting the seat
Position seat plate (6) on seat (5) front side and start the screws (7).
Fit the passenger seat (4) by letting it run below the belt (8) and by inserting its tooth (C) in the relevant opening (B) until fully home.
Tighten the screw (3) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
Engage tabs (A), located on seat bottom rear end, into the housings (B) on rear subframe.
Engage the central retainer by pushing onto it: then push onto seat front end (as shown in the figure) until seat latch clicks to lock. Make
sure the seat is safely secured to the frame and remove the key from the lock.
Removing the seat release mechanism
Loosen screws (1) and (2) and remove the glove compartment (3).
During the removal operation, disconnect the USB connector (A).
The seat opening device is positioned on the RH side of the vehicle.

Remove nipple (4) from latch (5).
Disconnect seat opening cable (7) from bracket (6).
Loosen ring nut (8) and remove by pulling the lock (9) downwards.
Undo the two screws (14) from the front crossbeam (13), holding the nuts (10) on the opposite side, and remove the latch (12) collecting
washers (11) and nuts (10).
Refitting the seat release mechanism
Position screws (14) on front crossbeam (13) and, from the lower side, insert the seat lock latch (12) on the thread of the screws, aiming
it as shown in the figure, then place the two washers (11) and screw the nuts (10).
Insert the lock (9) in the relevant seat on the RH rear subframe from the outer side and aim it with the latch (5) as shown in the figure.
On the inside, insert plate (6) onto lock (9), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Secure the parts by starting ring nut (8).
Tighten ring nut (8) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
Position cable (7) on plate (6) and insert the nipple (4) into the latch (5).
Warning
Move the ring nut until the collar is facing downwards.
Connect the USB connector (A).

Position the glove compartment (3).
Start the screws (1) and (2) fastening the glove compartment (3).
Tighten screws (1) and (2) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the seat (Refitting the seat)

Removing the seat bottom cover
Remove passenger seat (Removing the seat).
Undo the screws (1) and (2) and collect the washers (3) and spacers (4).
Remove the LH cover (5).
Repeat the same procedure on RH cover.
Refitting the seat bottom cover
Fit the two small clips (6) onto LH subframe cover (5), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Insert the washers (3) on the screws (1) and start them to the inner side of the LH rear subframe (5).
Insert the spacers (4) on the thread of the screws (1) from the outer side, position the LH subframe cover (5) and start the screws (1)
until fully home.
Tighten screws (1) and screw (2) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Repeat with RH cover.
Refit the rear seat (Refitting the seat).

Removing the front mudguard
Undo the screw (1) and open the hose grommet (2).
Release the brake hose (A) and the front speed sensor (B).
Undo the two screws (4) securing the front mudguard (3) and keep spacer (5).
Remove the mudguard (3) by pulling it out from the front side.
Refitting the front mudguard
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the screws (4). A maximum of three removal/refitting operations is
recommended.
Start screws (4) with relevant spacer (5).
Position the brake hose (A) and the front speed sensor hose (B) inside the hose grommet (2).
Tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 0.5 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the rear mudguard
If necessary, remove the rear wheel to remove the rear mudguard (1) (Removing the rear wheel).
Undo the two screws (1). Loosen the rear one just enough to move the chain splash guard (1) aside. Screw full removal is not required.
On the vehicle right side, loosen the screw (3) retaining rear mudguard (4).
Loosen screw (5) from the rear side.

Remove the rear mudguard (4) by sliding it out of the chain splash guard.
Refitting the rear mudguard
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the screws (5), (3) and (1). A maximum of three removal/refitting operations is
recommended.
Position the rear mudguard (4) on the swinging arm.
Start rear screw (5) and tighten it to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Working on vehicle right side, start and tighten screw (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Working on vehicle left side, insert the rear mudguard “inside” the chain splash guard (2), as shown in the figure.
Start front screw (1).
If the rear wheel has been removed, refit it (Refitting the rear wheel).
Acronyms and abbreviations used in the manual
ABS Antilock Braking System
DPL Ducati Power Launch
DQS Ducati Quick Shift
DRL Daytime Running Lamp
DSB Dashboard
DSS Ducati SkyHook System
DTC Ducati Traction Control
DWC Ducati Wheelie Control
GPS Global Positioning System

Routing of wiring on frame
BRANCHES DESCRIPTION
Branch 1
Quick shift
Gear sensor
Side stand
Branch 2 Engine Ground
Battery negative
Water temperature
Pick up
Generator
Branch 3 ABS control unit
Purge
Branch 4 Horizontal coil
Injector airbox
Anti-theft system
Vertical coil
Potentiometer
Branch 5 Horizontal oxygen sensor
Vertical oxygen sensor
Oil pressure switch
Branch 6 ECU
Tank ground cable
Fuel pump
Branch 7 Secondary air
IMU
Horizontal MAP sensor
Vertical MAP sensor
Voltage regulator
Air Temperature
Branch 8 Ignition switch

Immobilizer
USB socket
Branch 9 Rear stop light
Rear speed
Branch 10 Horn
Fan
Branch 11 Throttle
Right-hand switch
Left-hand switch
Instrument panel
Headlight
RH heated handgrip
LH heated handgrip
Front brake switch
Clutch switch
Ambient temperature
Main branch
POSITION TYPE INVOLVED BRANCHES NOTES
(A) Big self-locking tie Vertical head wiring support
Rear branch
Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Battery negative cable
(B) Big self-locking tie Vertical head wiring support
LH lower branch
(C) Big self-locking tie Vertical head wiring support
Main branch
(D) Big self-locking tie RH front branch
(E) Big self-locking tie Front branch
Horizontal MAP sensor wiring branch
Vertical MAP sensor wiring branch
(F) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) button tie Headlight branch
Headlight wiring branch
(G) Front wiring guide Headlight branch
(H) Special Hellerman rotating clamp Subframe RH branch
(I) Special Hellermann clamp Subframe RH branch
(L) Big self-locking tie Vertical head wiring support
Main branch
(M) Big self-locking tie Vertical head wiring support
Main branch
(N) Big self-locking tie Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
(O) Big self-locking tie Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Main branch
(P) Snap-on clip Main branch


Branch 1
Branch 1 Quick shift
Gear sensor
Side stand
Branch 1A
POSITION DESCRIPTION
(1) Starter motor
(2) Quick Shift
(3) Side stand

(A) Big self-locking tie Vertical head wiring

support
Main branch
Starter motor / solenoid

starter cable
(B) Big self-locking tie Vertical head wiring

support
Main branch
(C) Big self-locking tie Starter motor / solenoid

starter cable
(D) Big self-locking tie Starter motor / solenoid

starter cable
Main branch
(E) Snap-on clip Main branch
Starter motor / solenoid

starter cable
(F) Snap-on clip Starter motor / solenoid

starter cable
Generator cable
Pick-up wiring branch
Side stand wiring branch
Horizontal oxygen
sensor wiring branch
Pressure switch wiring

branch
Horizontal coil wiring

branch
Water temperature
sensor wiring branch
(G) L = 62 mm (2.44 Fuel tank drain pipe

in) button tie
Side stand connector
(H) Small self-locking Side stand cable

tie
Quick shifter cable At the mark present on the cable and at the indicated screw
(I) Big self-locking tie Hellerman cable ring After having connected the Quick Shift to the main wiring, make sure that the
connection is fully covered by the protective gaiter
Side stand cable
Quick Shift wiring

branch
Quick shifter cable
(L) Small self-locking Side stand cable At the indicated screw

tie
Quick Shift wiring
branch
(M) Small self-locking

tie
"Routing of wiring on frame"
Branch 1B
(4) Gear sensor

Branch 2
Branch 2 Engine Ground
Battery negative
Water temperature
Pick up
Generator
Branch 2A
(1) Engine Ground

Main branch
Main branch
(C) Big self-locking tie Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
(D) Big self-locking tie Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Main branch
(E) Snap-on clip Main branch

(F) Snap-on clip Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Generator cable
Horizontal oxygen sensor wiring branch
Pressure switch wiring branch
Horizontal coil wiring branch
Water temperature sensor wiring branch
(G) Big self-locking tie Gear sensor wiring
Generator cable
Branch 2B
(2) Battery negative

Main branch
Main branch
(C) Big self-locking tie Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Main branch
(D) Snap-on clip Main branch
(E) Snap-on clip Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Generator cable
(F) Big self-locking tie Gear sensor wiring
Generator cable

Branch 2C
(3) Water temperature

(A) Big self-locking tie Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Main branch
(B) Snap-on clip Main branch
(C) Snap-on clip Starter motor / solenoid starter cable Apply Protectant 3 (NYOGEL 760 G) on connector contacts
Generator cable

Branch 2D
(4) Pick up
(A) Big self-locking tie Gear sensor
Generator cable
Ground wiring branch
(B) Snap-on clip Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Generator cable

(C) Big self-locking tie Pick-up cable
Branch 2E
(5) Generator
(A) Big self-locking tie Front branch
Horizontal MAP sensor wiring branch
Vertical MAP sensor wiring branch
Generator cable
(B) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) button tie Three-way connector - water breather pipe
Generator cable
(C) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) button tie Battery negative and starter motor/solenoid starter cables
Generator cable
(D) Snap-on clip Starter motor / solenoid starter cable
Generator cable

Branch 3
Branch 3 ABS control unit
Purge
Branch 3A
(1) ABS control unit
Branch 3B
(2) Purge Valve

(A) Snap-on clip LH lower branch

Branch 4
Branch 4 Horizontal coil
Injector airbox
Anti-theft system
Vertical coil
Potentiometer
Branch 4A
(1) Horizontal coil

(A) Big self- Clutch hose Tie closing device must be aimed towards the horizontal head so as to prevent it
locking tie from damaging the water radiator pipe.
Horizontal coil cable Tighten tie at the fastening screw of horizontal head water union
connector
(B) Snap-on Starter motor / solenoid

clip starter cable
Generator cable
Horizontal oxygen sensor

wiring branch
Pressure switch wiring

branch
Horizontal coil wiring

branch
Water temperature sensor

wiring branch
Branch 4B
(2) Vertical coil
(3) Injector wiring branch
(4) Potentiometer wiring branch

Secondary air system pipe
(A) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) button tie Vertical coil cable
Potentiometer airbox wiring branch
(B) Small self-locking tie Injector airbox wiring branch
Anti-theft system presetting wiring branch
(C) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) button tie Airbox rear branch

Branch 5
Branch 5 Horizontal oxygen sensor
Vertical oxygen sensor
Oil pressure switch
Branch 5A
(1) Vertical oxygen sensor
(A) Special Hellermann clamp Subframe RH branch
(B) Special Hellermann clamp Subframe RH branch
(C) Special Hellermann clamp Vertical oxygen sensor connector

(D) Small self-locking tie Vertical oxygen sensor wiring branch
Vertical oxygen sensor cable
(E) Small self-locking tie Rear stop sensor wiring branch
Rear speed sensor wiring branch
Branch 5B
(2) Oil pressure switch
(3) Horizontal oxygen sensor
Important
Cable sheath must be moved as close as possible to the oxygen sensor and fastened with a small self-locking tie (A), as shown in the
figure
(A) Small self-locking tie Oil pressure switch support
Horizontal oxygen sensor cable
(B) L = 80 mm (3.23 in) button tie Fuel tank drain pipe
Horizontal oxygen sensor cable connector
Canister breather pipe
Expansion reservoir drain pipe

Branch 6
Branch 6 ECU
Tank ground cable
Fuel pump
Branch 6A
(1) ECU 1
(2) ECU 2
Branch 6B
(3) Tank ground cable
(4) Fuel pump

Branch 7
Branch 7 Secondary air
IMU
Horizontal MAP sensor
Vertical MAP sensor
Voltage regulator
Air Temperature
Branch 7A
(1) Horizontal MAP sensor
(2) Vertical MAP sensor
(3) Voltage regulator
(4) IMU
(5) Secondary air actuator
(6) Air temperature sensor

(A) Big self-locking tie Front branch
Horizontal Map sensor wiring branch
Vertical Map sensor wiring branch
Generator cable
(B) Big self-locking tie RH front branch
(C) Big self-locking tie Voltage regulator wiring branch
Inertial platform (IMU) wiring branch
Throttle control wiring branch
Ignition switch wiring branch
Immobilizer antenna wiring branch
Front speed sensor wiring branch
Right turn indicator wiring branch
(D) Big self-locking tie Air temperature sensor wiring branch
Secondary air system actuator wiring branch

Branch 8
Branch 8 Ignition switch
Immobilizer
USB socket
Branch 8A
(1) Ignition switch
(2) Immobilizer
(A) Small self-locking tie
(B) Small self-locking tie
(C) L = 62 mm (2.44 in) button tie Ignition switch Cable/Connector
Immobilizer antenna Cable/Connector
Ignition switch Connector/Wiring branch
Immobilizer antenna Connector/Wiring branch
Branch 8 B
(3) USB socket

POSITION TYPE INVOLVED BRANCHES
(A) Small self-locking tie Subframe RH branch
USB socket wiring branch

Branch 9
Branch 9 Rear stop light
Rear speed
Branch 9A
(1) Rear speed
(2) Rear stop light

(A) Male / female cable ring Rear brake calliper / control unit hose
Rear speed sensor cable
(B) Fast Point Rear brake calliper / control unit hose
(C) Hose clamp Calliper holder plate
Rear brake calliper / control unit hose
(D) Big self-locking tie Rear mudguard hose clamp
(E) Fast Point Rear brake calliper / control unit hose
(F) Special Hellermann clamp Rear speed sensor cable
Rear stop sensor cable
(G) Small self-locking tie Rear stop sensor cable
(H) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) button tie Rear stop sensor connector
Rear speed sensor connector
(I) Small self-locking tie Rear stop sensor wiring branch
(L) Small self-locking tie Rear stop sensor wiring branch
(M) Special Hellermann clamp Frame RH branch
(N) Special Hellerman rotating clamp Frame RH branch

Branch 10
Branch 10 Horn
Fan
Branch 10A
(1) Horn
(2) Fan
(A) Relevant tab Fan cable
(B) Small self-locking ties Fan support Position connection by hiding it as much as possible inside frame
Fan cable

Branch 11
Branch 11 Throttle
Right-hand switch
Left-hand switch
Instrument panel
Headlight
RH heated handgrip
LH heated handgrip
Front brake switch
Clutch switch
Ambient temperature
Branch 11A
(1) Throttle
(2) Right-hand switch
(3) Left-hand switch
(4) Instrument panel
(5) Headlight
(6) RH heated handgrip
(7) LH heated handgrip
(8) Front brake switch
(9) Clutch switch
(10) Ambient temperature

Warning
Turn handlebar all the way right to make sure that headlight wiring branch (5) is not too tensioned.
Warning
The blue taping (UI) present on instrument panel wiring must be positioned just above the front wiring guide (E), as shown in the figure
(NEVER under, over or in line with the front wiring guide).
Warning
The black heat-shrinking sheath (highlighted in green in the figure) must be positioned at the centre of the big self-locking tie (D), as
shown in the figure (NEVER to the right or to the left of tie).
POSITION TYPE INVOLVED NOTES
BRANCHES
(A) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) Control unit / front

button tie brake master cylinder
Throttle cable
Front brake switch

cable
RH switch cable
(B) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) Clutch hose

button tie
LH switch cable
Clutch switch cable
(C) L = 39 mm (1.53 in) Headlight branch

button tie
Headlight wiring
branch
(D) Big self-locking tie Tie base on frame Taping must be positioned directly in front of the big self-locking tie
Headlight branch
(E) Wiring guide Headlight branch Blue taping must be positioned directly above the front wiring guide
POSITION TYPE INVOLVED NOTES
BRANCHES
(F) Big self-locking tie Headlight support
Air temperature sensor
(G) Special Hellerman clamp Instrument panel Fit special Hellerman clamp on instrument panel support, positioning it as
(plus version only) support low as possible. Refer to the axis shown in the figure.
Instrument panel
wiring branch
(H) Big self-locking tie Headlight support
Instrument panel
wiring branch
(I) Coloured taping Front branch
(L) Big self-locking tie Instrument panel

wiring

Recharging the battery
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards. When under charge, batteries produce explosive
gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames.
The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no special installation procedure.
Note
Always keep the battery clean. Apply grease around the battery terminals to prevent corrosion.
Warning
Never remove the valve cover located on top of the cover. If the block, cover or terminals are broken or if the valve cover has been
tampered with, IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE BATTERY.
Important
If the motorcycle is left unused for more than 30 days, remove the battery and store it in a safe, cool place.
Note
Check that battery terminals are properly connected to the battery charger.
For the first recharge operation, follow the instructions set forth in the manual present inside the acid box, making sure to use one of the
battery charger models approved by Ducati and listed below:
BatteryMate 150-9
Set the yellow knob to "NEW". Set the red

knob to the correct nominal charge "RANGE"
for the battery.
Example for battery

YUASA YT12B - BS:
Range 4  10÷16 Ah
Optimate Pro 4
Set the knob to "NEW".

Use only constant-voltage battery chargers.
The Ducati Service approved battery chargers for lead-acid batteries are the following TecMate BatteryMate 150-9 and Optimate Pro 4
models.
We remind you that the new Ducati Battery Charger is now available. This device has been designed to extend the life of lead-acid
batteries, especially during periods of low motorcycle use when the battery is progressively discharged, risking compromising its
functionality.
The battery maintainer works according to a completely automatic algorithm controlled by a microprocessor. Once the battery is fully
charged, the voltage is reduced to the maintenance level. If the electronic components applied to the motorcycle should cause the
battery voltage to drop below the optimum level, the device will automatically return to charge mode in order to restore the correct
voltage and ensure that the motorcycle can be started at any time, even after long periods of inactivity.
The Ducati Battery Charger is available in different country versions with the following part numbers:
• 69928471A (EU);
• 69928471AY (UK);
• 69928471AZ (US);
• 69928471AW (JP);
• 69928471AX (AU-NZ-CN).
Once charging is complete, fit the battery to the vehicle (Installing the battery).
Topping up the electrolyte
Warning
Before carrying out any work on the battery, read the following instructions carefully for filling, charging and installation.
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (General safety rules). The electrolyte in the battery
is corrosive and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it contains sulphuric acid. Wear gloves and, if necessary,
protective clothing, a face-mask and goggles when adding electrolyte. If the fluid comes into contact with the skin, wash thoroughly with
fresh water. If it comes into contact with the eyes, wash thoroughly with water for 15 minutes and consult an ophthalmologist. In the
event of accidental ingestion, drink large quantities of water or milk, and continue with milk of magnesia, a beaten egg or vegetable oil.
Do not allow sparks, flames, cigarettes or any other heat source to get near the battery, as it produces explosive gases. When
recharging or using the battery indoors, make sure that the room is adequately ventilated. Do not inhale the gases produced during
recharging. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Warning
Do not dispose of exhausted battery into the environment.
Disposal
Decision No 2001/118/EC: EWC 16 06 01* (Lead batteries).
Note
Remove the adhesive film (1) protecting the filler caps present on the battery
Warning
Make sure that the electrolyte is of the specific type for your battery.
Remove the container with the electrolyte from the plastic bag.
Remove the cap strip (3) from the container (2).
Important
Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later to plug the battery cells.
Warning
Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas.
Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the battery. Push the container
(2) downwards with sufficient force to break the seals and allow the fluid to flow out.
Note
Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently.
Make sure that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least twenty minutes.
If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container.
Important
Never move the container away from the battery. Do not cut or puncture the container.
Make sure that all the electrolyte has flowed out. Carefully extract the container (2) from the battery.
Fit the cap strip (3) previously removed from the electrolyte container (2) to the battery, and ensure the caps plug off all filler holes.
For batteries over 12 Ah, leave the battery to rest for at least 1 hour (this process is fundamental to ensure battery correct performance).
Set the cap strip on the filler holes without securing it. Proceed with battery charging (see below for a description of the procedure).
Note
When using an automatic battery charger, ensure that the charger current (ampere) is equal to or higher than the value of the standard
charging system (STD) indicated on the battery itself.
Press firmly downwards with both hands until the caps are firmly in place (do not use a hammer).
Warning
Do not dispose of the electrolyte container into the environment.
Disposal
Decision No 2001/118/EC: EWC 15 01 10* (Packaging containing residues of or contaminated by dangerous substances).
Note
Removing the battery
Warning
Instructions for battery use

Important
Never try to open the battery as it is sealed, it does not require maintenance operations or to be filled in with acid or other types of
liquids. Consequently, it does not need any operation upon its installation on the vehicle.
Note
Warning
Warning
battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated and that ambient temperature is below 40° C (104° F). Never try to open the
battery: it does not need to be filled with acid or other types of fluids.
Important
Always charge the battery before the first operation and after long storage periods – such as before selling the vehicle.
Removing the seats

Remove the battery retaining bracket (1) by removing screws (2).

Undo the fixing screws (3) and remove the negative cable (4), the ABS positive cable (5) and the positive cable (6) from their terminals.
Slide out the battery (7) together with the battery mount (8).
Refitting the battery
Warning
Instructions for battery use

Important
Never try to open the battery as it is sealed, it does not require maintenance operations or to be filled in with acid or other types of
liquids. Consequently, it does not need any operation upon its installation on the vehicle.
Note
Warning
Warning
battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated and that ambient temperature is below 40° C (104° F). Never try to open the
battery: it does not need to be filled with acid or other types of fluids.
Important
Always charge the battery before the first operation and after long storage periods – such as before selling the vehicle.
Insert battery (7) inside rubber mount (8), then position it inside the indicated compartment under passenger seat, driving it fully home.
Connect the positive cable (6) and the ABS positive cable (5) to the battery positive terminal, then connect the negative cable (4) to the
negative terminal, as shown in the figure.
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Position battery mounting bracket (1) over the battery. Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Refitting the seats
Alternator / Generator
The generator used has a rated power of 490 W at 14V, and consists of a fixed element (stator/generator, A), located in the generator
cover and a mobile element (rotor/flywheel, B) fastened to the crankshaft.
Rotor (B) is manufactured with strong permanent magnets and features a lot of pin pairs for each stator phase. This allows generating
alternate voltage at a higher frequency compared to a standard generator. The result: at low rpm it is possible to generate higher
current.
Important
Check the charging current by using the "DDS" diagnosis instrument.
To check the generator, measure the voltage at each one of three ends of the generator cable and check if it is compliant with the value
indicated in the table (ambient temperature: 20°C).
Attention
Before testing, disconnect the generator wiring from the electrical system when the ignition key is set to OFF.
Rpm Active voltage Minimum voltage Maximum voltage
1500 rpm 20.8 V 18.9 V 24.5 V
2500 rpm 34.3 V 31.4 V 40.4 V
Values significantly lower than those indicated above can be due to:
- partially demagnetised rotor;
- short-circuited windings.
In the above cases the whole generator assembly (rotor and stator) should be replaced.
If checks have a favourable outcome, reconnect the generator to the regulator with ignition key on OFF. Make sure that no cables are
damaged or disconnected.
Removing the generator
Drain the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the front sprocket cover (Removing the front sprocket cover).
Slide out the gearchange mechanism (Removing the gear shift).
Drain the cooling system and release the case from the pipes (Removing the cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover), the stator (A) (Disassembling the generator cover) and the rotor (B)
(Removing the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refitting the generator
Fit the rotor (B), the stator (A) (Fitting the flywheel/generator assembly) and the generator cover (Fitting the generator cover).
Refit the cooling system pipes (Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions) and restore the fluid level.
Refit the gearchange mechanism in its seat (Refitting the gear shift).
Refit the sprocket cover (Refitting the front sprocket cover).
Restore the engine oil level (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Rectifier-regulator
The rectifier-regulator (1) is placed on the front side of the frame, under the ignition switch.
REMOVAL
Disconnect the two connectors (2).
Undo screws (3) and remove regulator (1).

REFITTING
Fit two vibration dampers (4) in the relevant holes of the voltage regulator support (6).
Fit the two spacers with collar (5).
Fit two spacers with collar (8) in the relevant holes of the voltage regulator support (6) positioning them as shown in the figure.
Insert screws (10) in the regulator protection bracket (9).
Position the voltage regulator (1) on the voltage regulator support (6), and insert the two screws (10) with bracket on the side of the
support.
Start two nuts (7) on the threaded projections of two screws (10).
Tighten nuts (7) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10% holding screws (10).
Fit the large vibration damper (11) into the recess of the regulator protection bracket.
Ensure that the regulator protection bracket is fitted from the correct side as shown in the figure.
Position the regulator (1) on the inner side of the frame engaging the pin (12) into the vibration damper.
Fit the screws (3) with relevant washer and tighten them to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10%.

Electric starting system
The electric starting system consists of a solenoid starter (1) and a starter motor (2).
Starter motor
Electric features:
12 V / 0.7 kW
The starter motor is highly compact and reliable, therefore rarely raises any operating issue.
In case of faults:
- ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the nut and shows no sign of oxidation;
- if the terminal is properly tightened and free from oxidation, remove the starter motor and test it under no-load conditions (no load
applied to the shaft).
Warning
Secure the starter motor to a test bench, making sure not to damage the casing.
Warning
Use a fully charged 12 V battery for the test.
- Use battery-motor connection cables which are no longer than 70 cm and with the same cross-section as the cable on the vehicle
itself;
- connect the negative terminal of the battery to an unpainted area of the starter motor casing and the positive terminal to its electrical
terminal;
- the shaft of the starter motor should rotate freely and at a high speed.
Warning
Take care not to short-circuit the two cables connected to the battery.
Solenoid starter
POSITION
The solenoid starter (1) is located inside the electrical components compartment, beneath the passenger seat.
REMOVAL
Disconnect the regulator connector (B) and remove the protection cap (2).
Loosen the screws (3) and collect the elastic washers (4).
Remove the starter motor-solenoid starter cable (5) and the battery positive terminal-solenoid starter cable (6).
Remove the solenoid starter (1) from the electrical components compartment by sliding it from the brackets (B).
REFITTING
Introduce the solenoid starter (1) on the brackets (B) of the electrical components compartment fully home.
Insert elastic washers (4) on the thread of screws (3).
Position the starter motor-solenoid starter cable (5) and the battery positive terminal-solenoid starter cable (6) on solenoid starter (1) and
start the screws (3).
Reconnect the regulator connector (A) and refit the protection cap (2).
Refit the passenger seat (Refitting the seat).
Headlight
The headlight (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light.

In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire headlight (1) (Removing the headlight).
Replacing the light bulbs — Headlight
This model features a FULL LED headlight so, in case of failure, the whole headlight will have to be replaced (Removing the headlight).
Aligning the headlight
Position the vehicle with tyres inflated at the indicated pressure and a person seating on the seat, perfectly perpendicular to his/her
longitudinal axis.
Position the vehicle 10 metres (32.81 ft) from a wall or a screen.
On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of the headlight and a vertical line aligned
with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.
Note
If possible, perform this check in dim light.
Switch on the low beam. The height of the upper limit between the dark area and the lit area must not be more than 9/10 of the height
from the ground of the headlight centre.
Note
The procedure described here is in compliance with the Italian Standard establishing the maximum height of the light beam. Owners in
other countries will adapt said procedure to the provisions in force in their countries.
For China standard only

The vertical alignment of the headlight can be manually adjusted by turning screw (1).
Turn clockwise to raise the beam, counter clockwise to lower it.
Tail light
The tail light (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light.

In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire tail light (1) (Removing the tail light).
Replacing the light bulbs — Tail light
The tail light (1) on this motorcycle is a LED light.

In case of malfunctions or breakage, it will be necessary to replace the entire tail light (1) (Removing the tail light).
Gear/neutral sensor
POSITION
The gear/neutral sensor (1) is located on motorcycle LH side, behind the sprocket cover.
REMOVAL
Working on the LH side of the motorcycle, loosen screws (2) and remove the canister cover (3).
Disconnect the gear/neutral sensor connector (A) by removing the retaining ties (Branch 1).
Loosen screws (4) and remove sprocket cover (5).
Loosen the two screws (6) and remove the gear/neutral sensor (1).
REFITTING
Apply the specified product to the thread of screws (6)

Position the gear/neutral sensor (1), aiming it as shown in the figure and start the screws (6).
Tighten the screws (6) to a torque of 2.5 Nm (Min. 2 Nm - Max. 3 Nm).
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on screw threads (4). Otherwise, use the indicated product.
Position sprocket cover (5) and start screws (4).
Reconnect the gear/neutral sensor connector (A) and restore all the retaining ties (Branch 1).
Refit the canister cover (3) and start screws (2).

Oil pressure sensor
POSITION
The oil pressure sensor (pressure switch) (1) is located on the front lower area.
REMOVAL
Remove the vertical exhaust pipe (Removing the exhaust system).
Disconnect the oil pressure sensor connector (A).

Loosen the screw (2) securing the pressure switch support (3) to the engine.
Loosen the pressure switch oil pipe (4) from the engine, collecting the aluminium gasket (5).
Remove the oil pressure sensor (1) from the support (3) by releasing the rubber block (B) from the rib (C).
REFITTING
Introduce the oil pressure sensor (1) in the support (3) by fitting the rubber block (B) in the rib (C).
Fit the aluminium gasket (5) on the pressure switch oil pipe union (4).
Start and tighten the pressure switch oil pipe (4) to a torque of 32 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the pressure switch support (3) on the engine and start the screw (2).
Reconnect the oil pressure sensor connector (A) (Branch 5).

Refit the vertical exhaust system (Refitting the exhaust system).
Engine temperature sensor
POSITION
The engine temperature sensor (1) is located on the vehicle LH side, on the water union of horizontal head.
REMOVAL
Disconnect the connector (A) from engine temperature sensor (1).

Loosen and remove engine temperature sensor (1), collecting seal (2).
REFITTING
Fit the seal (2) on the engine temperature sensor thread (1).
Apply the specified product to the thread of engine temperature sensor (1).
Start the engine temperature sensor (1) on the water union.
Tighten engine temperature sensor (1) to a torque of 23 Nm (Min. 20 - Max. 26).
Reconnect the connector (A) to the engine temperature sensor (1).
Air temperature sensor
POSITION
Ambient air temperature sensor
The ambient air temperature sensor (1) located on the headlight rear side.
Airbox air temperature sensor
The airbox air temperature sensor (2) is positioned at the top end of the airbox.
REMOVAL
Remove the headlight (Removing the light assembly).
Disconnect the ambient air temperature sensor connector (A).
Pull out and remove the ambient air temperature sensor (1) from the rubber support (3).
Disconnect the airbox air temperature sensor connector (B).

Loosen the two screws (4) and remove the airbox air temperature sensor (2), collecting the seal (5).
REFITTING
Insert the ambient air temperature sensor (1) in the rubber support (3).
Reconnect the ambient air temperature sensor connector (A) (Branch 11).
Refit the headlight (Refitting the light assembly).
Introduce the ambient air temperature sensor (2) in its seat on the airbox assembly, placing the seal (5) in-between, and start the screws
(4).
Reconnect the airbox air temperature sensor connector (B).

Side stand switch
POSITION
The side stand switch (2) is positioned on side stand joint.
REMOVAL
Disconnect the side stand switch connector (A) referring to chapter "Branch 1".
Loosen the screw (1) and remove the side stand switch (2).
REFITTING
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the screw (1). Otherwise, use the indicated product.
Refit the side stand switch (2) and start the screw (1).
Reconnect the side stand switch connector (A) referring to chapter "Branch 1".
Checking the fuses
POSITION
The fuse boxes (A) and (B) are located in the electrical components compartment, under the seat.
REMOVAL
To expose the fuses, lift the box protective covers. Mounting position and ampere capacity are marked on box cover.
Remove the two fuse boxes (A) and (B) by pulling them upward so as to disengage them from the brackets (C).
REFITTING
Introduce the two fuse boxes (A) and (B) in the brackets (C) fully home.
CHECKING THE FUSES
Refer to the table below to identify the circuits protected by the various fuses and their ratings.
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing the fuse to avoid possible short-circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than specified. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric system or even cause fire.
Fuse box (A) key
POS. El. item Value
1 Key 1 (ECU / ABS / IMU) 5A
2 Key 2 (Dashboard / BBS) 15 A
3 Key 3 (Accessories) 10 A
4 Diagnostics 7.5 A
5 Fuel pump relay 10 A
6 - -
7 - -
Fuse box (A) key
8 Spare 10 A
9 Spare 20 A
10 Spare 15 A
Fuse box (B) key
POS. El. item Value
1 Load relay 25 A
2 Starter relay 7.5 A
3 Dashboard 20 A
4 BBS 10 A
5 ABS 25 A
6 ABS 10 A
7 - -
8 Spare 10 A
9 Spare 20 A
10 Spare 15 A
Horn
POSITION
The horn (1) is located on vehicle’s RH side, behind the water radiator.
REMOVAL
Disconnect the horn connectors (2).
Loosen the screw (3) and remove the horn (1) together with the bracket.
Undo the screw (4), holding the nut (5) on the opposite side, and remove the horn (1) from the bracket (6).
REFITTING
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on screw thread (4). A maximum of three removal/refitting operations is
recommended.
Position the bracket (6) on the horn (1), aiming it as shown in the figure and start the screw (4).
On the opposite side, start nut (5) on the thread of screw (4).
Tighten screw (4) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10% by holding nut (5) on the opposite side.
Position the horn assembly (1) and start the screw (3).
Reconnect the horn connectors (2).

Coils

Horizontal head coil
recommended.
Insert coil (8).
Vertical head coil

recommended.
Insert coil (10).
Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant)

Electric fans
REMOVING THE ELECTRIC FAN
Remove the water radiator (Removing the water radiator).
Loosen screws (1) and remove the deflector (2) from the electric fan (3).
Loosen the screws (4) and remove the electric fan (3) from the water radiator (5).
PRE-FITTING THE ELECTRIC FAN

Fit the rubber blocks (6) in their respective recesses in the electric fan (3) bringing them fully home and positioning them as shown in the
figure.
Make sure that the electric fan cable (A) is inserted in the retaining tab (B).
Fit the cable (A) on the electric fan (3) and lock it using the self-locking ties (7) in the positions shown in the figure.
Make sure that the tie locking devices (7) are aimed correctly as shown in the figure; they cannot extend over the outer contour of the
electric fan support and cannot go inside the electric fan support to avoid touching the blades.
REFITTING THE ELECTRIC FAN
Position the electric fan (3) on the water radiator (5), aiming it as shown in the figure and start the screws (4).
Position the deflector (2) on the electric fan (3) and start the screws (1).
Refit the water radiator (Refitting the water radiator).
The electric fan activation parameters are defined by the water temperature sensors and controlled by the thermostat.
The operating parameters are indicated in chapter "Cooling system".
Electronic control unit
REMOVAL
Remove the rider seat (Removing the seat).

Remove the airbox soundproofing cover (A).
Disconnect the ECU (1) by disconnecting connectors (B).

Remove the screws (2) securing the ECU (1) and slide it towards the rear of the vehicle together with its rubber support (3).
REFITTING

Oxygen sensor
Disconnect vertical (1) and horizontal (2) coil as shown in chapter "Branch 5".
Loosen and remove vertical oxygen sensor (1).
Note
The rear subframe has been removed from the following image for a better view, however it is not necessary to remove it for the
horizontal oxygen sensor removal.
Unscrew horizontal oxygen sensor (2).

During refitting operation, tighten the oxygen sensors (1) and (2) to a torque of 24.5 Nm ± 10%.
Reconnect vertical (1) and horizontal (2) coil as shown in chapter "Branch 5".
Throttle position potentiometer (TPS)
POSITION
The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) (1) is a potentiometer installed on the throttle body, integrated in the ETV.
In case of failure it is not possible to replace only the TPS, but it is necessary to replace the complete throttle body.
REMOVAL

Remove the airbox (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Undo the screws (17) and remove the upper cover of the airbox (16).
Disconnect the horizontal and vertical injector connectors (A).
Remove the fuel pipe set (B) by loosening the relevant screws (C).
Disconnect the potentiometer connector (D).
Working on the lower side of the airbox (16) loosen the eight screws (18) and remove the throttle body.
REFITTING
Fit the two O-rings (25), inserting them perfectly into their relevant seats on the lower airbox cover (16).
Position the throttle body (26) inside the lower airbox cover, orienting it as shown in the figure.
Fit the two O-rings (27) on the two intake funnels (28), fitting them perfectly into their respective seats.
recommended.
Position the two intake funnels (28) on the throttle body and secure them by tightening the four screws (29).
Tighten the screws (29) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%, in a cross pattern.
Start screws (18) and tighten them to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%, in a cross pattern.
Reconnect the horizontal injector wiring branch connector and vertical injector wiring branch connector (A) to the corresponding
injectors.
Note
It is possible to distinguish between the injector wiring branches by observing the letters “V” and “O” on the labels attached to the cables.
Apply the indicated product (diluted at 50% with water) to the hose grommets (30).
Insert the hose grommets (30) perfectly into their respective seats on the lower airbox cover, as shown in the figure.
Using three self-locking ties (green in the figure), tie the throttle body fuel pipe set and wiring together in the indicated positions, as
shown in the figure.
Reconnect the potentiometer connector (D) and secure the fuel pipe set (B) by tightening the screws (C) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Couple the upper airbox cover (16) to the lower one and secure the parts by tightening the screws (17) in the positions shown in the
figure.
Tighten the screws (17) to a torque of 2.25 Nm ± 10%, following the sequence shown in the figure.
Refit the airbox (Refitting the airbox and throttle body).
Refit the rider seat (Refitting the seat).
Timing/rpm sensor
POSITION
The engine rpm sensor (1) is positioned on the LH side of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
Disconnect the engine rpm sensor connector (A) by removing the retaining ties (Branch 2).
Loosen the screw (4) with washer (5) and remove the rpm sensor (1).
REFITTING
Make sure that the O-ring (6) is present inside rpm sensor housing.
Position rpm sensor (1), fit the washer (5) and start the screw (4).
Tighten the screw (4) to a torque of 10 Nm (min. 9 – max. 11).
Reconnect the engine rpm sensor connector (A) and restore all the retaining ties (Branch 2).
Map Sensor
POSITION
The Map Sensor assembly (1) is located on the LH side of the airbox, in the inner surface of the frame.
REMOVAL

Disconnect the pipes (2) and (3) from the vertical and horizontal cylinder by loosening clamps (4).
Disconnect the vertical (a) and horizontal (B) Map Sensor connector.
Unscrew the screws (5) and remove the Map Sensor assembly (1).
Loosen the clamp (4) and remove the pipe (2) from the lower support (6) union.
Loosen the clamp (4) and remove the pipe (3) from the upper support (6) union.
Remove the supports (6) from the bracket (7), by releasing them from the tabs (C).
Remove the Map sensors (8) from the supports (6).

REFITTING
Fit the clips (9) in the indicated areas of the bracket (7), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Apply the indicated product to the O-ring (D) of the Map Sensors (8).
Fit the Map Sensors (8) on the supports (6) by introducing the pins with O-ring (D) in the support recesses and, at the same time, the
pins (E) in the Map Sensor (8) holes.
To carry out a correct assembly, the pins (E) must be pulled, by letting the poppets (F) get completely out on the side opposite to
insertion.
Apply the indicated product to the tabs (C).
Fit the supports (6) in the tabs (C) fully home on the bracket (7).
Fit the pipe (2) on the lower support (6) union, aiming it so as to make the reference mark (G) coincide with the support centre (H).
Fit the pipe (3) on the upper support (6) union.
Insert and tighten the clamps (4) on the pipe (2) and (3), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Position the Map Sensor assembly (1) on the inner surface of the frame and start the screws (5).
Reconnect the vertical (A) and horizontal (B) Map Sensor connector.
Reconnect the pipes (2) and (3) to the vertical and horizontal cylinder by using the clamps (4).
Black Box System (BBS)
POSITION
The BBS control unit (Black Box System) (1) is located under the rider seat and the glove compartment.
REMOVAL
Loosen the screws (2) and (3) and lift the glove compartment (4).
Disconnect the USB socket by unplugging the connector (A).
Remove the glove compartment (4).
Disconnect the BBS control unit connector (B).
Loosen the screws (5) with washers (6) and remove the rubber support (7) from the electrical component support.
Remove the BBS control unit (1) from the rubber support (7).
REFITTING
Fit the BBS control unit (1) inside the rubber support (7), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit the BBS control unit, aiming it as shown in the figure, by fitting its rubber support (7) on the electrical component support.
Insert washers (6) on the thread of screws (5).
Start the screws (5) with washers on the rubber support (7).
Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10.
Reconnect the BBS connector (B).
Reconnect the USB socket connector (A).
Position the glove compartment (4) and start the screws (2) and (3).
Electronic Throttle Valve (ETV)
POSITION
ETV (1) is positioned on the throttle body.

In case of failure it is not possible to replace only the ETV, but it is necessary to replace the complete throttle body.
REMOVAL

Disconnect the horizontal and vertical injector connectors (A).
Disconnect the potentiometer connector (D).
REFITTING
recommended.
Reconnect the horizontal injector wiring branch connector and vertical injector wiring branch connector (A) to the corresponding
injectors.
Note
Using three self-locking ties (green in the figure), tie the throttle body fuel pipe set and wiring together in the indicated positions, as
Reconnect the potentiometer connector (D) and secure the fuel pipe set (B) by tightening the screws (C) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Couple the upper airbox cover (16) to the lower one and secure the parts by tightening the screws (17) in the positions shown in the
figure.
Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU)
POSITION
The inertial platform (1) is located on the RH side of the airbox, in the inner surface of the frame.
Warning
During the removal and refitting phase, do not turn the key on before the sensor is installed in its definitive position. This because upon
Key-On the sensor checks the signal plausibility. If the sensor is not in its correct position, it will trigger a signal error that cannot be
erased with the DDS 3.
REMOVAL

Disconnect the inertial platform connector (A).

Undo the screws (2) and remove the inertial platform assembly.
Undo the screws (3), holding the nuts (4) on the opposite side, collect the washers (5) and remove the inertial platform (1) from the
bracket (6).
REFITTING
Fit the vibration dampers (7) in the relevant holes of the bracket (6).
Insert spacers with collar (8) in vibration dampers (7), on the indicated side.
Position the inertial platform (1) on the bracket (6), as shown in the figure and start the screws (3) from the bracket side.
From the opposite side, fit the washers (5) on the thread of the screws (3) and then screw the nuts (4).
Tighten screws (3) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10% by holding nuts (4) on the opposite side.
Position the inertial platform assembly on the inner surface of the frame and start the screws (2).
Reconnect the inertial platform connector (A).

Ducati Quick Shift (DQS)
POSITION
The Quick-shift control (1) is located on LH footpeg holder plate.
REMOVAL
Working on the left side of the motorcycle, disconnect the Quick-shift control connector (A) by releasing the cable from all its fixing points
(Branch 1).
Loosen the screw (2), holding the nut (3) on the opposite side, and remove the Quick-shift control (1) from the gear shift con-rod (4).
Loosen the screw (2), holding the nut (3) on the opposite side, and remove the Quick-Shift control (1) from the gearchange lever (5).
REFITTING
Fully screw, without tightening, the nut (6) on the uniball threaded pin (7).
Apply the indicated product to the uniball (7) thread (B).
Screw the uniball (7) on the Quick-Shift control (1), until the distance between centres (X) is 101.5 ± 0.5 mm (4 in ± 0.02 in).
Screw the nut (6) fully home on the Quick-shift control (1) and tighten it to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Once adjustment is completed, the uniball (7) and the Quick-Shift control (1) seats must be aligned on the same surface.
Fit the collar (8) on the Quick-shift control (1) and anchor the cable (C) by sliding it inside the collar, as shown in the image.
On the Quick-shift control (1) lower side, lock the collar (8) with the self-locking tie (9).
Route the cable (C) inside the collar (8) until it rests against the nut (6) as shown in the figure.
Refit the Quick-shift control (1) on the gearchange lever (5), aiming it as shown in the figure and start the screw (2).
Refit the Quick-shift control (1) on the gear shift con-rod (4) and start the screw (2).
Reconnect the Quick-shift control connector (A), by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 1).
Instrument panel
The motorcycle is equipped with a COBO instrument panel featuring a TFT colour display.
The instrument panel provides all the information necessary for safe riding and allows customising vehicle track alignments and
parameters.
Upon key-on, the instrument panel displays the Ducati Logo and carries out a check routine of the LED warning lights in sequence.
After this routine, the instrument panel displays the main screen in use before last key-off.
During this first check stage, if the motorcycle speed exceeds 5 km/h (3 mph), the instrument panel will stop:
- the display check routine and display the standard screen containing updated information;
- the warning light check routine and leave ON only the warning lights that are actually active at the moment.
Upon key-on, the instrument panel displays the Ducati Logo and carries out a check routine of the LED warning lights in sequence.
After this routine, the instrument panel displays the main screen in use before last key-off.
During this first check stage, if the motorcycle speed exceeds 5 km/h (3 mph), the instrument panel will stop:
- the display check routine and display the standard screen containing updated information;
- the warning light check routine and leave ON only the warning lights that are actually active at the moment.
no. Description Colour
1 Rev limiter / immobilizer Red
2 Rev limiter Red
3 Low fuel Amber

yellow
4 Turn indicators Green
5 DRL – daytime riding light on Green

(not present on versions for China and Canada)
6 DTC/DWC status Amber

yellow
- flashing: DTC/DWC enabled, but with degraded performance;
- on: DTC/DWC disabled and/or not functioning due to a fault in the control unit.
7 Low engine oil pressure Red
Important
If the ENGINE OIL light stays ON, stop the engine or it may suffer severe damage.
8 Low battery charge Red

(display)
9 Generic error Amber

yellow
(display)
10 Gear in neutral Green
11 ABS status Amber

yellow
- flashing: ABS in self-diagnosis mode and/or functioning with degraded performance;
- on: ABS disabled and/or not functioning due to a fault in the ABS control unit.
12 Side Stand Red
(display)
13 High beam on Blue
14 MIL Amber
yellow
- The warning light is steady on when an engine management error occurs. Ride slowly, avoid sudden acceleration
and overtaking manoeuvres, take the vehicle to a Ducati authorised service centre to have the fault eliminated.
- The flashing warning light is activated to signal a critical emission error and may cause damage to the catalytic
converter. If possible, have the vehicle picked up and the fault eliminated by a Ducati authorised service centre and,
in any case ride slowly, avoid sudden acceleration and overtaking manoeuvres.
15 DTC/DWC intervention Amber

yellow
MAIN PAGE ITEMS
The main screen shows all the information and elements necessary to riding.
The units of measurement can be changed using the "Measurement units" function in the "Setting menu".
no. Description
1 Interactive menu
2 Info display
3 Speed
It is displayed increased by 5% together with the set measurement units (km/h or mph).
4 Fuel level
Available in 2 modes: graduated bar or km or miles left.
5 Riding Mode in use
6 Clock
7 Gear
8 Parameter window
It shows the values of the DQS, DTC, ABS, DWC parameters set for the Riding Mode in use.
In case of errors on one or more parameters, "Err" is displayed instead of the relevant value.
The window disappears when bike speed exceeds 5 km/h (3 mph) or when the heated handgrips are activated.
9 Engine coolant temperature (°C or °F)

The temperature display range is +40 °C ÷ +120 °C (+104 °F ÷ +248 °F).
If the temperature is below +40°C (+104°F), "LO" will be displayed, while if it is above +120°C (+248°F), "HI" will be displayed
flashing red.
Warning
In case of overheating, if possible, it is recommended to ride at reduced speed to allow the cooling system to lower the engine
temperature. If this is not possible due to traffic conditions, stop and turn the engine off.
Continuing to ride the bike when the engine is overheated may cause serious damage.
When engine temperature goes back to normal, continue to ride, checking the indication on the instrument panel frequently.
10 Rev counter
11 Air temperature (°C or °F)
Note
When the vehicle is stopped, the engine heat may influence the displayed temperature.
SETTING / DISPLAYING THE "SETTING MENU" PARAMETERS
This menu allows enabling, disabling and setting some motorcycle functions.
Attention
You can enter the SETTING MENU only when the actual vehicle speed is lower than or equal to 3 mph (5 km/h). If you are inside the
Setting MENU and the actual vehicle speed exceeds 3 mph (5 km/h), the instrument panel automatically exits from this Menu and
displays the Standard Screen.
• Select the Interactive Menu (A) by holding button (1) pressed.

• Use buttons (1) and (2) to select "Setting menu" (B) and press ENTER (3).
The instrument panel displays the dedicated screen with the list of the available settings:
- Riding Mode
- Fuel indicator
- DRL (if available)
- Backlight
- PIN Code
- Date and time
- Service
- Lap
- Tyre calibration
- Bluetooth (if available)
- Turn indicators
- Measurements units
- Info
When the “Setting menu” is displayed, buttons (1), (2) and (3) are used as follows:
- buttons (1) and (2) to scroll through and select the available items;
- ENTER (3) to confirm the selected item.
To quit the sub-menus contained in the "Setting menu", select "Back" and press ENTER (3).
To quit the "Setting menu" go back to the main screen, select "Exit" and press ENTER (3).
SETTING / DISPLAYING THE "INFO DISPLAY" PARAMETERS
The "Info display" menu (A) contains all the counters for the available trip information.
To select the "Info display" menu, press and hold button (2).
Once the "Info display" menu (A) has been selected, the list of information can be scrolled using buttons (1) and (2).
The measurement units of the trip information can be changed using the "Measurement units" function in the "Setting menu".
The information in the "Info display" menu is listed below.
Name Description Measurement units / format
Total Total odometer km, miles
Range Residual range km, miles
visible only if the fuel level display mode has been set to "Level"
Trip 1 Trip meter 1 km, miles
Øcons.1 Average fuel consumption 1 L/100, km/l, mpg UK, mpg US
Øspeed 1 Average speed 1 km/h, mph
Trip 1 time Trip time 1 hhh:mm
Trip 2 Trip meter 2 km, miles
Cons. Instantaneous fuel consumption L/100, km/l, mpg UK, mpg US
REMOVING / REFITTING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL
Instrument panel removal / refitting procedures are described in “Removing the instrument panel - Removing the instrument panel
assembly (plus)” and “Refitting the instrument panel”. - Refitting the instrument panel assembly (plus)
Transport Mode
The "Transport Mode" function limits instrument panel operation, in particular:
- the message “Transport Mode” is displayed flashing in the instrument panel section dedicated to the “Settings” menu; it is therefore
not possible to display information and/or modify the various parameters.
- It is possible to access only the menu where to change quickly the Riding Modes, but it is not possible to change the parameters.
Warning
The "Transport Mode" function is activated at Ducati at the end of line (EOL) and must be deactivated before motorcycle delivery to the
final customer, during the pre-delivery phase.
This function has been introduced with the aim to:
- deliver a motorcycle to the end customer with the software of the control units updated to the latest version available.
- trace who performs the disabling operation of the transport mode.
To disable the “Transport Mode” function, it is necessary to:
1. Use the DDS 3.0 diagnosis instrument with license renewed for the current year and updated to the last available software version.
Note
We recommend you to use a permanent Internet connection.
2. Start the Global Scan function and:
A) if electronic control unit software updates are detected, carry out the update; then start a new Global Scan and the message for
transport mode deactivation will be displayed.
B) if no electronic control unit software updates are detected, the message for transport mode deactivation will be displayed.
3. Follow the displayed instructions to deactivate the "Transport Mode" function.
Note
For further details on the "Transport Mode" function, refer to bulletin SRV-ESB-18-005: New instrument panel software function:
Transport Mode.
Function buttons
1) UP CONTROL SWITCH "

Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position ".
2) DOWN CONTROL SWITCH "
Button used to display and set instrument panel parameters with the position ".
3) HIGH-BEAM FLASHER BUTTON
The high-beam flash button may also be used for LAP functions.
4) TURN INDICATORS CANCEL BUTTON
The turn indicators cancel button may also be used for the CONFIRM MENU function, for selecting the riding mode.
5) DRL BUTTON
Button used to switch on/off the DRL lights.
6) HAZARD BUTTON
Button used to switch on/off all four turn indicators (Hazard function).
Error warnings
The instrument panel manages error warnings in order to allow the rider to identify any abnormal motorcycle behaviour in real time.
If there is an error, the instrument panel displays it in the red large format (A) for the first 10 seconds and then in the small format (B).
The indication then remains active until the error is reset.
If there are several errors, they are displayed one after the other every 5 seconds.
Restoring motorcycle operation via the PIN CODE
In case of key acknowledgement system or key malfunction, the instrument panel allows the user to enter his/her own PIN code to
temporarily restore motorcycle operation.
If the PIN code has been activated through the "PIN Code" function of the "Setting menu", the instrument panel displays the message
“Insert PIN” with the space to enter the four digits of the PIN.
ENTERING THE CODE
• The 2 arrows above and below the digit indicate that the number can be changed from 0 to 9 using buttons (1) and (2).
• Press ENTER (3) to confirm and move on to the next digit.
• Repeat the procedure until all 4 digits have been set.
Once the fourth and last digit has been set, press ENTER (3) and the instrument panel will behave as follows:
• If there is a problem during the PIN check, the instrument panel displays the error indication for 2 seconds and then goes back to
the main screen.
• if the PIN code is not correct, the instrument panel displays "Wrong" for 2 seconds and then goes back to the previous screen to
allow you to try again.
• if the PIN is correct, the instrument panel shows "Correct" for 2 seconds, and then displays the standard screen.
Immobilizer system
To increase protection against theft, motorcycle features an electronic engine locking system (IMMOBILIZER) which is automatically
enabled upon every Key-Off.
The Immobilizer system on this vehicle is the I2K-2 which is supplied with two passive, removable transponder keys.
I2K-2 system operation

Key electronic codes are stored inside instrument panel control unit, which serves as Immobilizer.
The transponder contained inside each key (A) is powered by the antenna inside the key switch (B). Instrument panel control unit (C)
reads the electronic code stored inside the key and compares it to the codes enabled for engine start, then it communicates to engine
control unit - through the CAN line - whether engine starting can be enabled.
Activations through diagnosis instrument

The DUCATI diagnosis instrument allows performing a series of activations to check some instrument panel functions and resetting
parameters or warning lights.
After each activation, the instrument panel will restore its standard functions.
Note
The activations must be performed only with key turned to ON, engine off and battery voltage ≥ 11.0 V.
Keys
The Immobilizer system on this vehicle is supplied with two passive, removable transponder keys.
Key programming procedure for the new system

The number of keys that can be stored inside the System is 2, and one or more than 2 keys cannot be programmed.
Note
Before carrying out key programming procedure, make sure that key switch has been set to OFF for at least more than 30 seconds.
1. Release keys from tie (1) in order to prevent any interference during the acquisition of the transponder code present inside the keys.
Note
Make sure that keys are at least 50 cm far from one another.
2. Make the Key-ON with the first key.
3. Make the Key-OFF before the countdown of 30 tenths of a second indicated on the instrument panel elapses (approx. 3 sec.) and
remove the key.
4. Make the Key-ON with the second key.
5. Make the Key-OFF before the countdown of 30 tenths of a second indicated on the instrument panel elapses (approx. 3 sec.) and
remove the key.
Make a new Key-ON with the first key.
If the procedure has been successfully completed, the instrument panel will show "PROG. OK”.
In case the keys are lost or damaged, proceed as described in chapter "Key duplication".
Key duplication
Loss or damage of one of the keys

In case one of the two keys is lost or damaged, carry out the following procedure:
1) Order a new spare key;
2) Make a mechanical copy of the key using the black key as a reference;
3) Using the DDS 2.0 diagnosis instrument, reset the keys, following the “Key reset procedure” shown below.
4) Carry out the “New system key programming procedure” shown in chapter “Keys”.
Key reset procedure

To reset the key programmed in the instrument panel control unit through the DDS 2.0 diagnosis instrument, carry out the following
procedure:
1) Turn the Key-ON with the old key;
2) Access the "Self-diagnosis" section of instrument panel control unit;
3) Select "Settings";
4) Select "Key Reset".
Note
Once key reset procedure is completed, no key will be programmed in the instrument panel control unit: the programming procedure of
the 2 keys explained at the beginning of the chapter will have thus to be carried out.
Loss or damage of one of the keys

In case both keys are lost or damaged, the following spare parts must be ordered:
1) complete switch kit consisting of:
— Keys
— Lock unit
2) Instrument panel:
install the kit and then carry out the key programming procedure for the new system explained in chapter "Keys".
Warning
If instrument panel control unit is replaced, the Pin Code must be set again otherwise the recovery procedure cannot be carried out.
Instrument panel damage and replacement

In case of instrument panel failure, it can be replaced by ordering a new spare instrument panel; then the key programming procedure
for the new system explained in chapter "Keys" has to be carried out.
Warning
If instrument panel control unit is replaced, the Pin Code must be set again otherwise the recovery procedure cannot be carried out.
Key switch mechanical damage

In case of key switch mechanical damage, the Key-ON cannot be carried out and, based on the system, proceed as follows (in this
vehicle, for the I2K-2 system with con REMOVABLE transponder):
— order a new spare key switch with locks;
— remove the transponders from both original keys and insert them inside the new ones (to replace the transponder, follow the
procedure below).
Disassembling the red key and the black key
RED key
1) Remove the mechanical part (1) from the red key.
2) Slide out the enclosure (2) containing the Transponder (3).
BLACK key
1) Remove the Ducati sticker (4) from the black key.
2) Slide out pin (5), then remove the mechanical part (6).
3) Slide out the enclosure (7) containing the Transponder (8).

Removing the front wheel
Warning
The following procedure refers to one version of the vehicle, but applies to both of them.
Support the bike so that the wheel to be removed is raised from the ground.
Working on either sides, loosen screws (1) securing the callipers to the fork leg and remove callipers (2) without disconnecting them
from hoses.
Warning
Do not operate the brake lever when the callipers are removed. This can cause the brake pad pistons to come out.
Loosen nut (3) on vehicle LH side.

Working on either sides, loosen screws (4) securing shaft on fork legs (5).
Remove nut (3) and washer (6).

Working from the left-hand side, use a plastic mallet to drive the wheel shaft (7) out from the opposite side and remove it.
Slide out wheel and keep spacers (8) on right-hand and (11) on left-hand sides.
If necessary, working on either sides, remove dust seals (9) and (12) and bearings (10) and (13).
If necessary, remove the inner spacer (14).
Overhauling the front wheel
Wheel bearings
Before checking the dimensions, check for wear on wheel hub bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and degreasing the
bearings in their seats.
Turn the internal ring and check that the internal balls move freely: any irregularity indicates deformations like those indicated in values
"X" and "Y".
An excessive wear can cause vibrations and instability of the vehicle and therefore it is necessary to replace the bearing.
To remove the bearings (10) and the dust seals (9) from the wheel hub follow the instructions below.
Position a drift (A) against the inner ring of the bearing (10).
Tap with a hammer until removing the bearing (10).
Apply the drift at different points to facilitate the removal.
Important
Once removed, the used bearings and sealing rings must not be refitted.
Before fitting new bearings, check that the seat is clean and free from scoring and damage.
Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat.
Using a tubular drift (B) that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing (10) to drive the latter fully into its seat.
Use the same method to install the dust seals (9).

Ensure that spacer (11) is fitted between the two wheel hub bearings.
Note
Wheels must be rebalanced after repair, maintenance and overhaul operations.
Inspecting the wheel shaft

Check the wheel shaft for straightness.
Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion using a feeler gauge, comparing it with the reference values
(Front wheel).
If non conforming, replace wheel shaft.
Overhauling the wheel rim

After you have checked the bearings, check the rim as follows.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged.
Insert the shaft in the wheel and position it on two fixed reference blocks.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round with respect to the shaft axis.
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel (Front wheel).
Refitting the front wheel
When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the wheel as follows.
Insert inner spacer (14).
Important
The service hole on the internal spacer must be positioned on the wheel left side.
Duly lubricate and insert bearings (10) and (13), seals (9) and (12) and spacers (11) on wheel hub left-hand side and (8) on wheel hub
right-hand side.
Fit the complete wheel between the fork legs.
Lubricate the shank and thread of the wheel shaft (7).
Take pin (7) fully home into the wheel hub.
Fit the washer (6) on the end of the wheel shaft.

Apply the indicated product to thread and underhead of the retaining nut (3).
Apply the specified product to screws (1).
Start the two screws (1) securing brake callipers (2).
Operate the front brake lever two or three times.
Hold the lever pulled towards the handgrip and simultaneously pre-tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 5%.
Lower the motorcycle to the ground and push up and down the handlebars to load the suspension; so the fork legs will become properly
seated onto the wheel shaft.
Tighten, on either sides of the motorcycle, screws (4) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Tighten calliper screws (1) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 10%.
Tighten wheel shaft (3) to a torque of 63 Nm ± 5%.
Removing the rear wheel
Properly support the motorcycle with the service stand and engage the first gear.
Remove the rear brake calliper (1) (Removing the rear brake calliper).
Loosen rear wheel shaft retaining nut (1) and collect washer (2).
From the vehicle opposite side, slide out wheel shaft (3) and collect washer (4).
Release chain from the rear sprocket and remove the wheel.
Working on vehicle RH side, remove bearing (5) and inner spacer (6).
Working on vehicle RH side, remove outer spacer (7).

Using suitable tools, remove circlip (8), slide out bearing (9), spacer (10) and the other bearing (11).
Overhauling the rear wheel
Overhauling the wheel rim
Inspect the wheel rim as follows.

Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the rim if damaged.
Using a dial gauge, duly supported, measure rim runout and out-of-round relative to the shaft axle.
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, replace the wheel.
Refitting the rear wheel
Rear wheel shaft (3) has a short threading (A) and a long threading: apply the indicated product on the whole short threading (A).
Screw nut (B) on rear wheel shaft (3) by hand, until driving it fully home.
Important
Before using shaft (3), it is necessary to allow enough time for the threadlocker to cure (approx. 12 hours).
Working on vehicle RH side, refit the following components:
- bearing (11);
- spacer (10);
- bearing (9);
- circlip (8);
- outer spacer (7)
Working on vehicle LH side, fit spacer (6) and bearing (5).
Warning
The service hole on the internal spacer must be positioned on wheel RH side.
Apply the indicated product to shaft (3).

Fit the washer (4) inside shaft (3).
Position rear wheel on vehicle by inserting chain and then insert shaft (3).
Apply the indicated product to nut (1).
Fit washer (2) and start nut (1).
Tighten nut (1) to a torque of 145 Nm ± 5%.
Refit the rear calliper (Refitting the rear calliper).

Removing the front brake master cylinder
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this
component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance operations on these units are limited to
replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Remove the light assembly (Removing the light assembly).

Drain the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Remove the RH rear-view mirror (Removing the rear-view mirrors).
Release the hoses and wiring from the clamps (1) and disconnect the brake switch connector (2).
Undo the special screw (3), collecting the seals (4) and release the front brake hose (5) from the front master cylinder (6).
Undo the screws (8) securing the clamp (7), and then remove the front brake master cylinder assembly from the handlebar.
Refitting the front brake master cylinder
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause system faults and interfere with moving parts.
Place the front brake master cylinder (6) on the handlebar so that reference mark on the handlebar is aligned as shown in the figure.
Start and tighten clamp (7) fastening screws (8) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
For the positioning of the hose (5) and retaining ties as well as of removed cables and wirings, see Section "Routing wiring/hoses".
Fit hose (5), copper gaskets (4) and start the special screw (3).
Before tightening the screw (3), check that the hose (5) is positioned at a height (X) = 15° ± 4.
Tighten the special screw (3) to a torque of 27 Nm (Min.25.5 - Max.28.5).
Connect front brake switch connector (2) and secure the cable using ties (1).
Refit the light assembly (Refitting the light assembly).
Fill the front brake system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Maintenance operations
Warning
water.
For all maintenance operations (wear check and replacement of brake pads, front braking system fluid change, rear braking system fluid
change etc.) see chapter "Maintenance operations".
Removing the front brake system
Drain the front braking system (Changing the front brake system fluid).
Remove the front brake master cylinder (Removing the front brake master cylinder).
Working on the left side of the vehicle, loosen the special screw (1), recover the copper gaskets (2) and release the pipes (3) and (4).
Working on the opposite calliper, loosen the special screw (5), recover the copper gaskets (6) and release the pipe (3).
Remove the two front callipers by loosening screws (7).
Remove the brake hoses as described in the chapter (Positioning wiring/hoses).

Removing the brake discs
The front brake discs consist of an inner carrier, which is mounted to the wheel, and an outer rotor. Both parts must be replaced together
as a pair.
Remove the front wheel (Removing the front wheel).
To remove the LH brake disc (2), loosen screws (1) and slide it out together with phonic wheel (3).
To remove the RH brake disc (4), loosen screws (5) and slide it out.
Refitting the brake discs
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the screws (1) and (5). A maximum of three removal/refitting operations is
recommended.
Fit the phonic wheel (3) and disc (2) working on the LH side.
Tighten the screws (1) retaining the brake disc (2) to the wheel following a cross pattern.
Working on the RH side, fit brake disc (4) and tighten screws (5) to a torque of 30 Nm ± 5% following a cross pattern.
Refit the wheel on the motorcycle (Refitting the front wheel).

Refitting the front brake system
Refit the front brake master cylinder (Refitting the front brake master cylinder).
Warning
If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the component as shown in the figure.
Check hose correct routing in chapter "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses".
Upon the system refitting, pay attention to the orientation of the hose unions on the master cylinder and on the callipers.
Follow the values below:
(A) = 40° ± 4°
(B) = 35° ± 4°
(C) = 40° ± 4°
(D) = 50° ± 4°
(E) = 48° ± 4°
(F) = 26° ± 4°
(G) = 36°
(H) = 90°
(I) = 36°

Lay the hoses (3) and (4), complying with the values indicated above.
Insert the special screw (1) with relevant copper gaskets (2).
Tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 27 Nm (Min.25.5 - Max.28.5).

Lay the hose (3), complying with the values indicated above.
Insert the special screw (5) with relevant copper gaskets (6).
Removing the rear brake control
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical nature of this
component. Incorrect overhaul can endanger rider and passenger safety. Maintenance operations on these units are limited to
replacement of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
Drain the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Remove the RH footpeg holder plate (Removing the footpeg holder plates).
Loosen the special screw (2) securing the brake control (1).
Remove the brake control (1) by pulling the brake control rod (3) from the right footpeg holder (4).
When removing the brake control (1), recover the two O-rings (7), the washer (8) and the spring (5).
Disassembling the rear brake control
The brake master cylinder is supplied only as a complete unit; internal components cannot be replaced.
To disassemble the master cylinder's outer parts, follow the indications given in chapter "Removing the rear brake control".
If the bush (14) inside the brake pedal needs to be replaced, apply the indicated product to the external surface and fit the new bush
using a press to insert it. The bush must be placed at the indicated value shown in the figure.
Disassemble the system components by referring to chapter "Removing the complete rear brake control".
After performing an operation on the rear brake control, check the brake pedal position following the instructions detailed in Section
"Adjusting the position of the gear pedal and rear brake pedal".
Refitting the rear brake control
PRE-FITTING THE REAR BRAKE CONTROL
Manually tighten the nut (10) on the fork (9).

Manually screw the fork (9) on the rod (3).
Respect position (X) = 112.67 0-0.2mm (4.43 0-0.008in).
When position (X) has been reached, tighten the nut (10) to a torque of 5 ± 10% Nm by holding the rod at the flat (A).
Fit the rear brake master cylinder rod (3) on pin (13).
Apply the indicated product on the pin (13) in point (C).
Start pin (13) and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Screw in the adjuster dowel (11) and start the nut (12).
Move the adjuster dowel (11) to position (X) = 1.7 0-0.2 mm (0.06 0-0.008 in).
Tighten nut (12) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%, while holding dowel (11).
when replacing the brake lever or the RH footpeg holder plate, follow the instructions given in the table, referring to the vehicle serial
number.
UP TO SERIAL NUMBER ZDM4M00AANB001265
REFERENCE DESCRIPTION PART NO. NOTES
1A brake lever 45721161AA compatible with RH footpeg holder plate 4A only
4A RH footpeg holder plate 82414042AA compatible with brake levers 1A and 1B

FROM SERIAL NUMBER ZDM4M00AANB001265
REFERENCE DESCRIPTION PART NO. NOTES
1B brake lever 45721162AA compatible with RH footpeg holder plates 4A and 4B
4B RH footpeg holder plate 82414041BA compatible with brake lever 1B only

REFITTING THE REAR BRAKE CONTROL
Apply the indicated product on the two O-rings (7) and on the collar of the special screw (2).
Place the O-rings (7) in their respective seats on the brake lever (1).
Insert the special screw (2) in the indicated hole of the brake lever (1).
On the opposite side, insert the washer (8) on the threaded projection of the special screw (2).
Fit the spring (5) onto rear brake master cylinder rod (3).
Position the brake lever (1), orientating it as shown in the figure, on the right footpeg holder plate (4) by inserting the rod (3) in the hole
(6) and starting the special screw (2).
Tighten special screw (2) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10%.
Fill the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
If released from the clips, position hoses and wirings as described in "Routing wiring/hoses".
Refit the footpeg holder plate (Refitting the footpeg holder plate).
Removing the rear brake calliper
Drain the rear braking system (Changing the rear brake system fluid).
For the ABS brake system, please also refer to Sections "ABS system operation information" and chapters "ABS system components"
and "ABS component maintenance".
Loosen the special screw (1), recover the two gaskets (2) and remove the hose (3) after disconnecting the speed sensor cable from the
pipe hose grommet (4).
Loosen the two screws (5) and remove the rear calliper (6).
Removing the rear brake disc
Remove the rear wheel (Removing the rear wheel).

Loosen the three fixing screws (1) of the phonic wheel (2) and slide it out.
Loosen the three screws (3) retaining the rear disc (4) and slide it out from the wheel (6).
Refitting the rear brake calliper
If the brake lines are replaced or if one of the rear brake system components has been removed, make sure that the hose unions on the
master cylinder and the calliper are correctly positioned.
Warning
If incorrectly positioned, hoses can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the component as shown in the figure.
During rear brake calliper hose positioning, comply with the value (A) = 18° ± 4°.

Position the rear brake calliper (6) and start screws (5).
Lay the hose (3), complying with the values indicated above.
Start screw (1) with copper gaskets (2).
Fit the rear speed sensor cable in the relevant hose grommet (4) as shown in the figure.
Refitting the brake disc
recommended.
Fit the brake disc (4) on the wheel (6).
Start screws (3).
Position the phonic wheel (2) and start the screws (1).
Refit the rear wheel (Refitting the rear wheel).

Operating principle
The Ducati ABS brake system manages the front and rear brake systems separately. The operating mechanism consists of a pulse
generator (phonic wheel), with a ring of slots, fitted onto each wheel. There are HALL sensors on LH fork leg bottom end and on rear
brake calliper holder plate. With vehicle running, they read the slots on the phonic wheel thereby detecting instant wheel speed. These
sensors output data to ABS control unit, which contains software with a special control algorithm developed by Ducati. The software
compares the vehicle average speed with the instant wheel speed reading and assesses any slipping condition. If control values are
exceeded when the rider commands a certain pressure on brake calliper, the control unit shall hydraulically control the braking system,
which is nearly locked up. The system can modulate pressure at the calliper through a set of solenoid valves which first prevent any
further increase of hydraulic pressure (1 valve closing), and then make the pressure decrease (2 valve opening). The 2 valve is opened
in a series of pulses (with less than 10 milliseconds between successive pulses), to reduce pressure in steps. When the wheel begins to
turn again in response to the diminished braking force applied and its rotation speed reaches the reference value, the exhaust valve 2
will be closed. Simultaneously, the inlet valve 1 is reopened, restoring normal operation of the brake system. The ABS control unit can
monitor and modulate brake force in the three following different conditions: dry road surface (high grip), wet or slippery road surface
(poor grip) and uneven road surface. ABS functionality is disabled at vehicle speeds lower than 5 km/h.
The hydraulic component of the ABS system consists of a primary circuit (from the cylinder to the control unit and from the control unit to
the calliper) and a secondary circuit (completely within the control unit).
Please find below a chart explaining ABS hydraulic operation.
Key to ABS hydraulic system colours:

Green: oil delivery
Light blue: oil return
Key to ABS hydraulic system
A Rear brake master cylinder
B Front brake master cylinder
1A Rear brake calliper inlet valve
1B Front brake calliper inlet valve
2A Rear brake calliper exhaust valve
2B Front brake calliper exhaust valve
3 Brake master cylinder
4 Little tanks
5A Rear calliper
5B Left front calliper
6B Right front calliper
7 Pressure transducer
Brake system diagram.

Braking without ABS.
ABS 1 modulation: braking.

ABS 2 modulation: pressure partial reduction on callipers.
ABS 3 modulation: pressure total reduction on callipers.

ABS system operation information
The operation of the system is based on the analysis of the speed signals for front and rear wheels; the system is automatically
deactivated if either of these signals is missing.
Note
In the event of the ABS control unit detecting a fault in the ABS electronic management system, it activates the specific fault warning
indicator on the instrument panel and restores conventional braking functionality without ABS.
Hydraulic faults in the brake system and faults not directly related to the ABS system (e.g.: worn brake pads) cannot be detected by the
ABS control unit.
Important
The operation of the system is based on the values read for the front and rear wheel speeds; take great care not to damage the phonic
wheels and relative speed sensors when removing the wheels or when working close to these components; the phonic wheels damage
may compromise the operation of the system and cause dangerous malfunctions.
ABS diagnosis
The diagnostic function of the ABS ascertains the functionality of the main system components via hardware/software tests, but cannot
modify the operating parameters of the ABS strategy.
From the model menus of the DDS2.0 diagnosis software, select MONSTER family, then model 937, and then select bike model year
and press Global Scan button.
Now connect tester to bike CAN diagnostic socket, to locate connector refer to the video displayed in screen showing the diagnostic
connector position on bike.
Wait for the correct configuration to be loaded and, when requested, switch the vehicle to key-on state.
Tester communicates to the different control units present on bike, ABS control unit included; wait for the scan to be completed.
Among the displayed information a "dot" icon is shown: based on its colour, it refers to validated errors inside the different control units.
In particular, if errors are stored, icon will be yellow or if errors are currently present, icon will be red, while if no errors are present, icon
will be green.
To make a deeper analysis of the ABS control unit, select ABS control unit and SELF-DIAGNOSIS or, as an alternative, make a double
selection on the same item with your mouse.
Once in this configuration, a number of parameters and states of the ABS control unit and information concerning the control unit itself
may be selected and displayed.
The INFO menu allows reading the software version loaded on the control unit as well as other information.
Select the function "View parameters and states"
This function allows the tester to display the following ABS system parameters and states:
Viewable parameters
Front wheel speed The speed value for the front wheel is displayed in Km/h.
Rear wheel speed The speed value for the rear wheel is displayed in Km/h.
System voltage value The system voltage value, measured across the terminals of the ABS unit, is displayed in Volts
Viewable states
Hydraulic pump motor Indicates if the electric motor of the hydraulic pump inside the ABS unit is functioning or not.
state
Valve relay state Displays the state of the main valve relay inside the ABS unit.
Rear inlet valve state Displays the state of the normally open EV1 rear inlet valve (OFF if open, ON if closed).
Front inlet valve state Displays the state of the normally open EV4 rear inlet valve (OFF if open, ON if closed)
Front outlet valve state Displays the state of the normally closed AV4 rear outlet valve (OFF if closed, ON if open).
Switch status ABS Displays state of the analogue input of the ABS unit for the strategy switch off request (1 state to Uz, 0 state
to GND).
Select the function "View errors"
This tester function provides the user with information concerning the error list in the ABS control unit memory, indicating if errors are
stored or current. The following codes are given after a short description of the diagnosis type: MEM, indicating that the error has been
stored previously by the ABS control unit but has not been detected in the current test session. ATT, indicating that the error is current
and has been detected during the current test session.
Note
While ATT indicates that the error has been found during the current test session, it does not necessarily indicate that the error is
actually active at the time of indication. For example: disconnecting the front wheel speed sensor causes the code ATT to be displayed
after the error description, but the code continues to be displayed even once the cause of its activation has been eliminated by
reconnecting the sensor, as the ABS will only check sensor operation again after the next key-off/key-on cycle. As a result, always
perform a key-on/key-off cycle after any work on the ABS system, interrupting and re-establishing communication between the
diagnostic instrument and the ABS control unit before checking the updated ABS error list again.
The abbreviations for all the errors displayed are given as follows:
Rear speed sensor signal

C1031 Rear speed sensor error
Open circuit/short circuit to GND/short circuit to Uz of rear wheel speed sensor
C1032 Front/rear speed sensor signal - Plausibility Front speed sensor fault - Plausibility
Front wheel sensor signal Open circuit/short circuit to GND/short circuit to Uz of

C1033 Front speed sensor error
front wheel speed sensor
C1034 Front speed sensor signal - Plausibility Front speed sensor fault - Plausibility
Plausibility of difference between front and

C1024 Front and rear wheel speed difference (WSS_GENERIC)
rear wheel speeds
C1014 Valve relay fault Solenoid valve relay fault (Failsafe relay)
C1049 Front outlet valve fault Front outlet valve (2) fault
C1054 Front inlet valve fault Front inlet valve (1) fault
C1048 Rear outlet valve fault Rear outlet valve (2) fault
C1052 Rear inlet valve fault Rear inlet valve (1) fault
C1331 ABS pressure sensor fault Pressure sensor hardware fault
C1332 ABS pressure sensor fault Pressure sensor - Offset fault/Test pulse/POT/Plausibility
C1333 ABS pressure sensor fault Pressure sensor power supply fault
C1015 ABS general malfunction ABS pump motor fault
C1059 ABS general malfunction ABS unit power circuit fault – High voltage
C1058 ABS general malfunction ABS unit power circuit fault – Low voltage
C1021 ABS general malfunction ABS electronic control unit fault
U2922 CAN communication error Bus Off error
U2925 CAN line hardware error Generic error of CAN controller
CAN communication error on frame DSB with ID: 0x300/0x360 (missing frame /
U2923 CAN communication error - frame DSB
crc error / cnt error)
CAN communication error on frame ECU with ID: 0x024/0x100/0x180 (missing

U2929 CAN communication error - frame ECU
frame / crc error / cnt error)
CAN communication error - frame BBS CAN communication error on frame BBS with ID: 0x120 (missing frame / crc
U2924
variant error / cnt error)
CAN communication error - frame BBS CAN communication error on frame BBS with ID: 0x018/0x019/0x620 (missing
U2926
variant frame / crc error / cnt error)
ABS system deactivation
ABS (Antilock Braking System) intervention can be customised without the possibility to disable it. To set ABS, refer to the owner's
manual.
Warning
If the vehicle front wheel remains off the ground for a prolonged period while the vehicle is moving, the speed difference detected
between the two wheels causes an ABS fault (warning light activated) and makes it impossible for the control unit to establish a
reference speed.
Changing the front phonic wheel sensor
Release the front ABS sensor (1) from the front bleed plug (A) and the four fastpoints (B).
Remove the big self-locking tie (C) and the small one (D) and disconnect the front ABS sensor wiring (2) from the front ABS sensor
cable (1).
Release the front ABS sensor cable (1) from the fastpoint (B) and the small self-locking tie (D) under the frame.
Loosen the fixing screw (3) and remove the front ABS sensor (1) recovering the shims (4) and pulling the front ABS sensor cable (1)
from the cable ring (5) located on the left front fork leg.
Before refitting, make sure that contact parts between front ABS sensor (1) and its seat are free of damage and perfectly clean.
Apply the specified product to screw (3).
Fit the new front ABS sensor (1) on its seat, by fitting the shims (4) in-between and start the screw (3).
Check air gap between front ABS sensor (1) and front phonic wheel (6) as explained under Section "Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic
wheel sensor.".
Connect the front ABS sensor wiring branch (2) to the front ABS sensor cable (1) refitting all the self-locking ties (C) and (D) previously
removed.
Secure the voltage regulator, IMU and front ABS sensor wiring branches and the front ABS sensor connector through the big self-locking
tie (C).
Secure the voltage regulator, IMU and front ABS sensor wiring branches through the small self-locking tie (D).
Restore all the fastpoints (B) and the previously removed small service self-locking tie (D).
Slide the front ABS sensor cable inside the front brake bleed plug (A) and inside the cable ring (5) located on the left front fork leg.
Changing the rear phonic wheel sensor

Remove the glove compartment (Removing the rear subframe)
Remove the rear mudguard (Removing the rear mudguard).
Disconnect the rear ABS sensor connector (A) from the main wiring harness and remove all fasteners, refer to chapter “Branch 9”.
Loosen screw (1) and remove the rear ABS sensor (2), collecting the shims (3).
Check air gap between new rear ABS sensor and rear phonic wheel (6) as explained under section "Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic
wheel sensor".
Refit the rear speed sensor (2) with spacers (3).
Reconnect the rear ABS sensor connector (A) from the main wiring harness and refit all fasteners, refer to chapter “Branch 9”.
Removing the ABS control unit

Remove the airbox and the throttle body (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Remove the canister filter (Removing the canister filter).
Remove the expansion reservoir (Removing the water tank)
Drain off the hydraulic fluid from brake system hoses, by disconnecting these from the calliper and master cylinder, (Changing the front
brake system fluid, Changing the rear brake system fluid).
Remove the engine head left guard (1) by removing the screws (2) and releasing the pin (A) from the rubber block (B) on the vertical
head wiring support (3).
Loosen the clamp (C) and remove the thermostat/cylinder head coupling (4) from the union (5).
Disconnect the connector of the ABS control unit (D).
Remove the tie (E) securing the ABS system hoses to the frame.
Loosen screws (6) and (7) securing the ABS control unit support and expansion reservoir (8).
Slide out the ABS control unit and expansion reservoir support assembly (8) together with the ABS control unit (9).
Loosen the two screws (10) and separate the ABS control unit (9) from the ABS control unit support and expansion reservoir (8).
Loosen the four special screws (11) retaining hoses (12), (13), (14) and (15), on ABS control unit (9), by removing the seals (16).
Warning
Whenever removed, seals must be replaced by new ones of the same type on refitting.
Important
Do not open the ABS control unit: if faulty, replace it.
Should it be necessary to replace one or several hoses, refer to "Routing wiring harnesses / hoses" of this section.
Refitting the ABS control unit
Pre-fitting the ABS control unit support

Fit clips (17) in the indicated areas of ABS control unit support (8), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit vibration dampers (18) on ABS control unit support (8).
Insert the spacers with collar (19) in the two vibration dampers (18), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit rubber pad (20) on ABS control unit support (8), letting poppet (F) completely come out on the opposite side.
Fit snap grip hose clamp (21) on the ABS control unit support (8), positioning it as shown in the figure.
Lock the hose clamp (21) by pressing the pin (G) down until it is “flush” with the snap grip hose clamp (6), as shown in the figure.
Hoses (12), (13), (14) and (15) must be secured in place using new seals (16) on unions.
Tighten the four special screws (11) fastening hoses (12), (13), (14) and (15) to a torque of 32 Nm ± 5% on ABS control unit (9).
Important
If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already filled with fluid. Control unit must
thus be assembled and the system filled and drained as a traditional system.
Make sure that hoses are routed as shown in the figure so as to avoid damages or malfunctions to both system and vehicle.
Apply the specified product to both screws (10).
Refit ABS control unit (9) on the ABS control unit support and expansion reservoir (8) and tighten screws (10) to a torque of 6.8 ± 1 Nm.
Reposition the ABS hoses on the frame and secure them using the tie (E).
Reposition the ABS control unit and expansion reservoir support assembly (8) together with the ABS control unit (9).
Start the screws (7) securing the ABS control unit support and expansion reservoir (8) to the manifold. Tighten the screws (7) to a torque
of 8 Nm ± 10%.
Start the screws (6) securing the ABS control unit support and expansion reservoir (8) to the crankcase. Tighten the screws (6) to a
torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Reconnect the connector of the ABS control unit (D).
Position ABS control unit (9) on vehicle and route hoses as described in "Routing wiring harnesses/hoses".
Insert thermostatic valve/vertical cylinder hose (4) on union (5) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (C) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the LH engine cylinder head protection (1) by inserting the pin (A) into the rubber block (B) on the vertical head wiring support (3)
and tightening the screws (2) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the expansion tank (Refitting the water tank).
Refit the canister filter (Refitting the canister filter).
Refit the airbox and the throttle body (Refitting the airbox and throttle body).
Fill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Fill and bleed the brake system (Changing the fluid in the front brake system, Changing the fluid in the rear brake system).
Routing wiring harnesses/hoses
The routing of the ABS system wiring has been optimised to ensure the minimum obstruction.
Each section is designed to prevent interference with parts that might damage wires or cause operating failures when riding.
1 ABS control unit / front brake calliper hose

2 ABS control unit / front brake master cylinder hose
3 ABS control unit / rear brake calliper hose
4 ABS control unit / rear brake master cylinder hose
POSITION TYPE PARTS NOTES
(A) Hose clamp Bottom yoke
ABS control unit / front brake master cylinder hose

(B) Big self-locking ABS hose support

tie
ABS control unit / front brake master The second tie must be positioned on the rubber block, as shown
cylinder hose in the figure
(C) Big self-locking ABS hose support

tie
ABS control unit / front brake calliper hose
(D) Big self-locking ABS hose support

tie
ABS control unit / front brake calliper hose At the rubber block
(E) Big self-locking tie ABS hose bracket
Control unit / front brake master cylinder hose
Control unit / front brake calliper hose At the rubber blocks
(F) Fast Point ABS control unit / rear brake calliper hose
(G) Hose clamp Swinging arm
(H) Hose clamp ABS control unit / rear brake calliper hose

Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor
Important
The following procedure applies both to the front and the rear adjustment.
The adjustment must be performed in any case of maintenance that foresees:

- replacing or refitting the wheel;
- replacing or refitting the front speed sensor (1);
- replacing or refitting the front phonic wheel (2);
- replacing or refitting the brake discs;
- replacing or refitting the rear phonic wheel (3);
- replacing or refitting the rear speed sensor (4);
- (front) replacing or refitting the sensor holder bracket;
- (rear) replacing or refitting the calliper holder;
once components are installed.
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the screws (5) and (6). Otherwise, use the indicated product.
Refit the front (2) and rear (4) speed sensors by placing the shims (A) in-between.
The AIR-GAP between ABS sensor and phonic wheel must be within 1.3 mm ÷ 1.9 mm.
For this purpose, use a feeler gauge to check the air-gap; then, carry out three measures of the air-gap, one every 120° of wheel turn.
If the difference between the minimum and maximum values measured is higher than 0.40 mm, replace the phonic wheel.
Once checked that the difference is lower than or equal to 0.40 mm, carry out the shimming of the front (1) or rear (4) speed sensor by
means of calibrated shims (A).
The shims used are of 0.2 mm or 0.5 mm.
Use them as required to reach the correct shimming.
Warning
Shim pack shall never exceed 3 mm.
Phonic wheels cleaning

It is important to check that both phonic wheels (2) and (3) are always clean.
Otherwise, gently remove any possible dirt deposits with a cloth or metal brush.
Avoid using solvents, abrasives and aiming air or water jets directly on the phonic wheel (2) or (3).
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system
Note
The procedure is described for one version but applies to all of them.
If brake controls feel "spongy" due to the presence of air bubbles in the system, bleed as usual, as described in sections "Changing the
front brake system fluid" and "Changing the rear brake system fluid".
Before bleeding a brake master cylinder, move back the calliper pistons as indicated in (Changing the fluid in the front brake system,
Changing the fluid in the rear brake system) to let any air build-up in the ABS control unit flow into the master cylinder.
Purge must be carried out by means of the corresponding unions (A) placed on the callipers and the brake master cylinders.
Important
Do not undo the special screws securing the pipe unions on the ABS hydraulic control unit, unless control unit replacement is necessary.
Important
If the ABS hydraulic control unit has been replaced, it will be supplied with the secondary circuit already filled with fluid. Control unit must
thus be assembled and the system filled and drained as a traditional system.
Removing the handlebar
Remove the rear-view mirrors (Removing the rear-view mirrors).

Remove the throttle control (Removing the throttle control).
Remove the front brake master cylinder (Removing the front brake master cylinder).
Remove the clutch control (Removing the clutch assembly).
Disconnect the two switches as described in chapter "Branch 11".

Remove the RH switch (1) by loosening the two retaining screws (2).
Working on the LH handlebar loosen the screw (3) and remove the counter-weight (4).
Slide the left-hand handgrip (5).

Loosen the two screws (6) and remove LH connector (7).
Loosen the four screws (8) of the upper U-bolts (9).

Remove the handlebar.
Refitting the handlebar
Position the handlebar (10), aimed as shown in the figure, in the housing present on lower U-bolt (11).
Centre handlebar (10) on lower U-bolt (11), so that the markings (A) are aligned with the side edges of lower U-bolt (11), as shown in the
figure.
Apply the specified product to the screws (8) and position the upper U-bolts (9).
Start and tighten the screws (8) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5%, following a 1-2-3-4-1-2 sequence
Fit the RH switch (1) on handlebar, aiming it as shown in the figure and inserting the switch pin (C) in the handlebar hole (B).
Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%, following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Fit the LH switch (1A) on handlebar, aiming it as shown in the figure and inserting the switch pin (E) in the handlebar hole (D).
Tighten the screws (6) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%, following a 1-2-1 sequence.

Insert the spacer (21) as shown in the figure.
Fit LH handgrip (5) and drive it fully home on the spacer (21).
The handgrip (5) must be aimed so that the lower profile of the “DUCATI” wording on the handgrip is aligned with the indicated edge of
the button (13), as highlighted in the figure.
Fit the counter-weight (4) and start the screw (3).

Connect the two switches as described in chapter "Branch 11".
Refit the front hydraulic brake master cylinder (Refitting the front hydraulic brake master cylinder).
Refit the rear-view mirrors (Refitting the rear-view mirrors).
Refit the throttle control (Refitting the throttle control).
Refit the clutch control (Refitting the clutch assembly).
Removing the throttle control
Remove the RH rear-view mirror (Removing the rear-view mirrors).

Disconnect the Ride by Wire (Branch 11).
Loosen the screw (1) and remove counter-weight (2).
Loosen the two retaining screws (3) from the throttle control (4).
Remove the throttle control (4).
Refitting the throttle control
Fit the throttle (4) on the handlebar (7) inserting the throttle pin (5) in the handlebar hole (6).
Tighten the two screws (3) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%, starting from the screw highlighted in the figure and following a 1-2-1 sequence.
Position the RH counterweight (2) on the handlebar; tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the Ride by Wire control (Branch 11).
Refit the RH rear-view mirror (Refitting the rear-view mirrors).

Removing the clutch assembly
Remove the LH rear-view mirror (Removing the rear-view mirrors).

Drain the clutch system (Changing the clutch system fluid).
Remove the headlight (Removing the light assembly).
Disconnect the clutch switch connector (A), by removing all the cable fixing points (Branch 11).
Loosen the special screw (1), remove the oil pipe (3) and the two copper washers (2) from the clutch master cylinder (4).
Loosen the two screws (5) and remove the clamp (6).
Undo the special screw (7) and release pipe (3), collecting the two copper washers (8).
Loosen the three retaining screws (9) of the clutch actuator (10).
Remove the clutch actuator (10).
Clutch hose positioning
To remove the clutch hose (3) refer to the following figures.

Refitting the clutch assembly
Clutch hose positioning
If removed, position clutch hose as shown in the figure.
(A) Big self-locking tie Headlight support In the upper notch
Clutch hose
(B) Big self-locking tie Headlight support In the lower notch
Clutch hose At the rubber block
(C) Big self-locking tie ABS hose support
Clutch hose
(D) Big self-locking tie ABS hose support
Clutch hose At the rubber block

(E) Big self-locking tie Generator wiring cover
Clutch hose
(F) Small self-locking tie Clutch hose
Gear sensor cable

Place the clutch actuator (10) and start the screws (9).
Position the clutch hose (3) and insert two new copper washers (8).
Start the special screw (7).
Before tightening the screw (7) check the following values:

(X) = 89° ± 4°
(Y) = 40°
Tighten the special screw (7) to a torque of 27 Nm (Min.25.5 - Max.27).
Position the clutch master cylinder so that it is aligned with reference on the handlebar, as shown in the figure.
Start and tighten screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Position the clutch hose (3) and insert two new copper washers (2).
Start special screw (1) without tightening it.
Before tightening the screw (1) check the following values:
(Z) = 15° ± 4°
Tighten the special screw (1) to a torque of 27 Nm (Min.25.5 - Max.27).
Reconnect the clutch switch connector (A), by restoring all the cable fixing points (Branch 11).
Refit the headlight (Refitting the light assembly).
Refit the LH rear-view mirror (Refitting the rear-view mirrors).
Refill the circuit (Changing the clutch system fluid).
Removing the ignition switch
Remove the two screws (1) retaining the ignition switch cover (2).
Remove the bushings (3).
Disconnect the ignition switch connector (A).

Loosen special screws (4) and remove the ignition switch (5).
Collect spacers (6).
Refitting the ignition switch
Position the ignition switch (5) in between the spacers (6).

Tighten two new screws (4) with pre-applied threadlocker until shearing the screw heads.
Connect the connector (A) of the ignition switch, restoring the correct cable passage.
Position the bushings (3).
Position the ignition switch cover (2).
Start the two screws (1) retaining the ignition switch cover (2).
Removing the gear change control
Working on the left side of the motorcycle, disconnect the Quick-shift control connector (A) by releasing the cable from all its fixing points
(Branch 1).
Mark the position of the gearbox con-rod (1) on the gear selector shaft, close to the opening (B), as shown in the figure.
Loosen the screw (2) and release the gear shift con-rod (1) from the gearbox selector shaft.
Loosen the screw (3), holding the nut (4) on the opposite side, and remove the gear shift con-rod (1) from the Quick-Shift control (5).
Loosen the screw (3), holding the nut (4) on the opposite side, and remove the Quick-Shift control (5) from the gearchange lever (6).
Loosen the pin (7), and remove the gearchange lever (6) from the LH front footpeg holder plate.
Pull pin (7) out of the gearchange lever (6), collecting washer (8) and O-rings (9).
Disassembling the gear change control
If the bushing (1) inside the gearchange lever (2) has to be replaced, apply the indicated product to the outer surface of the new bushing
(1).
Using a press, insert bushing (1) inside the seat of gearchange lever (2) so that it is at the same distance from outer profiles, as shown
in the figure.
If necessary, replace the rubber element (3) from the gearchange lever (2).
Warning
After working on the gear change control, check the position of the gear pedal.
To adjust the gear pedal position, follow the instructions under Section "Adjusting the gear shift and brake pedals.".
Refitting the gear shift
PRE-ASSEMBLING THE GEAR SHIFT
Fully screw, without tightening, the nut (10) on the uniball threaded pin (11).
Apply the indicated product to the uniball (11) thread (C).
Screw the uniball (11) on the Quick-Shift control (5), until the distance between centres (X) is 101.5 ± 0.5 mm (4 in ± 0.02 in).
Screw the nut (10) fully home on the Quick Shift control (5) and tighten it to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Once adjustment is completed, the uniball (11) and the Quick-Shift control (5) seats must be aligned on the same surface.
Fit the collar (12) on the Quick-shift control (5) and anchor the cable (D) by sliding it inside the collar, as shown in the image.
On the Quick-shift control (5) lower side, lock the collar (12) with the self-locking tie (13).
Route the cable (D) inside the collar (12) until it rests against the nut (10) as shown in the figure.
REFITTING THE GEAR SHIFT
Fit the first O-ring (9) on pin (7).

Grease pin (7) stem with the indicated product, avoiding the thread.
Insert pin (7) on gearchange lever (6) from the indicated side, until fully home.
Apply product to grease O-ring seat onto gearchange lever (6), and insert the second O-ring (9) on pin (7).
Fit the washer (8) on pin (7).
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the pin (7). Otherwise, use the indicated product.
Refit gearchange lever assembly on LH front footpeg holder plate and start pin (7).
Tighten pin (7) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the Quick-shift control (5) on the gearchange lever (6), aiming it as shown in the figure and start the screw (3).
Refit the gear shift con-rod (1) on the Quick-shift control (5) and start the screw (3).
Position the gearbox con-rod (1) on the gear selector shaft, by timing the opening (B) with the previously-made marking during the
assembly phase, as shown in the figure.
Start screw (2) of the gearbox con-rod (1).
If necessary adjust the position of the gear shift (Adjusting the gear shift and brake pedals).
Connect the Quick shift connector (A), by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 1).
Removing the front fork
Important
Support the front side of the vehicle in a suitable way.
Remove the front mudguard (Removing the front mudguard).

Loosen the screws (1) securing the fork legs to the steering head (3).
Loosen the screws (2) securing the fork legs to the bottom yoke (4).
Pull out the RH fork (5) and LH fork (6) downwards in order to carry out all the necessary overhaul operations.
Overhauling the front fork
GENERAL SAFETY RULES
Carefully read the procedures below before working on the fork for any reason whatsoever.
Please remember that suspension installation, maintenance and repair require specific knowledge, equipment and know-how.
After complete disassembly, always renew seals upon reassembly.
When tightening nuts or bolts close to one another, always follow a 1-2-1 sequence; comply with the specified tightening torques. Never
use flammable or corrosive solvents to clean parts, since they could damage the seals.
If necessary, use specific detergents, in preference biodegradable, non corrosive, non flammable ones or having a high flash point,
compatible with the seal materials.
Before reassembling, always lubricate the fork mating parts.
Always smear seal lips with some grease before reassembly.
When using a screwdriver to install or remove snap rings, O-rings, guide bushes or sealing rings, make sure not to scratch or damage
the parts.
Note
It is recommended to overhaul one fork leg at a time.
Do not modify the fork components.
SAFETY AND ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION RULES
Disposal
Note
USING THE VICE
Some service procedures might require the use of the vice to hold some fork components.
Warning
Incorrect use of the vice could damage the fork, even though damage might not be immediately visible, and jeopardise its safety
features.
Carefully comply with the following instructions:

Only use the vice when it is absolutely necessary.
Always use a vice with jaws made from soft material.
Do not tighten vice too much.
Do not vice fork at positions where the least deformation might damage the part and cause suspension malfunction.
The figure shows areas (A) and (B) recommended to fasten the fork to the vice.
Remove the forks (Removing the front fork).
Note
REMOVING THE LEFT FORK
Firmly lock the fork leg (1) vertically in the vice.
Warning
Protect the vice clamps with Teflon or other material in order to preserve the integrity of the sleeve surface
Loosen plug (2) using tool part no. 88713.0029.
Take the outer sleeve (1) down.
Drain all fluid from the sleeve.

To help draining, move damper rod a few times, then leave sleeve upside-down until fluid has completely drained.
Important
Draining all fluid from the fork is very important. This because, due to fork construction and design, it is not possible to measure the air
volume from fluid surface to fork edge when filling the fork with fluid.
Use tool part no. 88713.0029 to unscrew and remove the plug (2) keeping the special nut (22).
Remove dust seal (3) from outer sleeve (1).
Using suitable tools to remove snap ring (5) from sleeve (1).
Slide out outer sleeve (1) from fork leg (4) by hitting several times to counter-hold the sliding bushing resistance.
Remove the sliding bushing (9) from the fork leg.
Remove bushing (8), shim (7) and oil seal (6) from the fork leg (4).
REFITTING THE LEFT FORK
Protect bushing seat with some adhesive tape.
Lubricate fork leg with fork oil and install, in this sequence:
- Dust seal (3);

- Snap ring (5);
- Oil seal (6);
- Shim (7);
- Bushing (8).
Note
Pay attention to the direction of installation of oil seal, spring must face outward.
Remove the adhesive tape previously applied.

Refit the sliding bushing (9) into the fork leg, inserting it in its seat.
Fit leg (4) into the outer sleeve (1).
Install bushing (8) in its housing.

Fit shim (7) on bushing.
Use tool (A) part no. 88713.1096 to push bushing/shim assembly fully home on the sleeve.
Using the same procedure, install oil seal (6).
Fit snap ring (5) and dust seal (3).

Fill in the LH fork leg with 579 cu.cm (35.33 cu.in) of fluid (Front suspension).
Warning
The right and left legs contain a different quantity of fluid.
Drive plug (2) fully home.
Screw special nut (22) fully home on the plug (2).
Tighten the special nut (22) to a torque of 15 Nm ± 10% while holding the plug (2).
Tighten plug (2) on sleeve (1).
Use tool part no. 88713.0029 to tighten plug (2) to a torque of 22.5 Nm ± 10%.
REMOVING THE RIGHT FORK
Warning
Loosen plug (10) using tool part no. 88713.0029 as shown in the figure.
Drain the oil from the fork into a container.
Insert tool (B) part no. 88713.0957 in the preload tube (12).
Use a suitable tool to lower the preload tube (12) and insert under the nut the tool (C) part no. 88713.0957.
Use tool part no. 88713.0029 to unscrew and remove the plug (10) keeping the nut (21).
Remove the preload tube (12).
Be careful when removing the fork plug; the preload plug could pop out because of the spring (13) strength.
Remove spring (13) from sleeve (11).
Use tool (D) part no. 88713.0950 to move damper rod a few times to drain all the fluid and leave the sleeve upside-down until the fluid
has completely drained.
Important
Draining all fluid from the fork is very important. This because, due to fork construction and design, it is not possible to measure the air
volume from fluid surface to fork edge when filling the fork with fluid.
Remove dust seal (15) from outer sleeve (11).
Remove snap ring (16).

Slide out outer sleeve (11) from fork leg (17) by hitting several times to counter-hold the sliding bushing resistance.
Remove the sliding bushing (14) from the fork leg (17).
Remove bushing (20), shim (19) and oil seal (18) from the fork leg (17).
REFITTING THE RIGHT FORK
Protect bushing seat with some adhesive tape.
Lubricate fork leg with fork oil and install, in this sequence:
- Dust seal (15);

- Snap ring (16);
- Oil seal (18);
- Shim (19);
- Bushing (20).
Note
Pay attention to the direction of installation of oil seal, spring must face outward.
Remove the adhesive tape previously applied.

Refit the sliding bushing (14) into the fork leg (17), inserting it in its seat.
Fit leg into the sleeve.

Install bushing (20) in its housing.
Fit shim (19) on bushing.
Use tool (E) part no. 88713.1096 to push bushing/shim assembly fully home on the sleeve.
Using the same procedure, install oil seal (18).
Refit snap ring (16) and dust seal (15) into the sleeve (11).
Fit in the damper rod tool (D) part no. 88713.0950.
Fill in the right fork leg with 513 cu.cm (31.30 cu.in) of fluid (Front suspension) and operate the damper rod several times to make filling
easier.
Warning
The right and left legs contain a different quantity of fluid.
Bring the nut (21) fully home.
Refit spring (13) into sleeve (11).
Warning
The spring must be positioned as indicated.
Insert preload tube (12) on the spring and using tool (B) part no. 88713.0957 insert the other tool (C) part no. 88713.0957 so as to reach
the upper part of the damper rod.
Screw nut (21) fully home on the plug (10).
Tighten the nut (21) to a torque of 15 Nm ± 10% while holding the plug (10).
Remove tool part no. 88713.0957.
Refit the forks (Refitting the front fork).
Refitting the front fork
Position forks by respecting the value (X) of 8.7 mm (0.34 in).
Warning
The difference in height between the two fork legs must be no greater than 0.1 mm (0.004 in).
Apply the specified product to the thread of screws (1) and (2).
By working on one fork leg at a time, tighten the screws (1) retaining the forks to the steering head (3), to a torque of 24 Nm ± 5%.
Tighten the screws (2) retaining the forks to the bottom yoke to a torque of 16 Nm ± 5%, in the sequence 1-2-1, and starting from the top
screw.
Refit the front wheel (Refitting the front wheel).
Refit the front mudguard (Refitting the front mudguard).
Warning
Do not use the motorcycle when front mudguard is not in place since this part supports the brake lines and avoids that they interfere with
the wheel under braking.
Assembling the lowered spring kit
GENERAL SAFETY RULES
Carefully read the procedures below before working on the fork for any reason whatsoever.
Please remember that suspension installation, maintenance and repair require specific knowledge, equipment and know-how.
After complete disassembly, always renew seals upon reassembly.
When tightening nuts or bolts close to one another, always follow a 1-2-1 sequence; comply with the specified tightening torques. Never
use flammable or corrosive solvents to clean parts, since they could damage the seals.
If necessary, use specific detergents, in preference biodegradable, non corrosive, non flammable ones or having a high flash point,
compatible with the seal materials.
Before reassembling, always lubricate the fork mating parts.
Always smear seal lips with some grease before reassembly.
When using a screwdriver to install or remove snap rings, O-rings, guide bushes or sealing rings, make sure not to scratch or damage
the parts.
Note
It is recommended to overhaul one fork leg at a time.
Do not modify the fork components.
SAFETY AND ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION RULES
Disposal
Note
USING THE VICE
Some service procedures might require the use of the vice to hold some fork components.
Warning
Incorrect use of the vice could damage the fork, even though damage might not be immediately visible, and jeopardise its safety
features.
Carefully comply with the following instructions:

Only use the vice when it is absolutely necessary.
Always use a vice with jaws made from soft material.
Do not tighten vice too much.
Do not vice fork at positions where the least deformation might damage the part and cause suspension malfunction.
The figure shows areas (A) and (B) recommended to fasten the fork to the vice.
Remove the forks (Removing the front fork).
Note
REMOVING THE LEFT FORK
Warning
Warning
Pay attention not to let oil flow out of the fork leg.
If oil flows out, refill the exact amount specified in “Top-ups and lubricants”.
Use tool part no. 88713.0029 to unscrew and remove the plug (2) keeping the special nut (22).
PART NO. IMAGE
88713.0029
Loosen the special nut (22).

Use tool (E) part no. 88713.8826 to loosen and remove the damper rod unit (5) from the sleeve (1).
Remove spring (6) from sleeve (1).
PART NO. IMAGE
88713.8826
REFITTING THE LEFT FORK WITH LOWERED SPRING
Add oil to the LH leg until reaching the filling value of 585 cu. cm.
Insert the lowered spring (7) inside the sleeve (1), orientating it with the narrowest part facing upwards.
Warning
The spring must be positioned as indicated.
Apply the indicated product on the damper rod unit thread (5) in the positions shown in the figure.
Use tool (E) part no. 88713.8826 to start and remove the damper rod unit (5) from the sleeve (1).
Tighten the damper rod unit (5) to a torque of 20 Nm ± 10%.
Screw the special nut (22) onto the threaded leg of the damper rod, bringing it to a stop.
Screw special nut (22) fully home on the plug (2).
Tighten the special nut (22) to a torque of 15 Nm ± 10% while holding the plug (2).
Important
Never tighten the plug (2) with the fork leg resting on the ground in compression. The tightening must always be carried out with leg on
the vice.
REMOVING THE RIGHT FORK

Warning
PART NO. IMAGE
88713.0029
Warning
Pay attention not to let oil flow out of the fork leg.
If oil flows out, refill the exact amount specified in “Top-ups and lubricants”.
Insert tool (B) part no. 88713.0957 in the preload tube (12). Use a suitable tool to lower the preload tube (12) and insert under the nut a
spanner part no. 88713.0957.
Now remove plug (10) using tool part no. 88713.0029.
PART NO. IMAGE
88713.0957
88713.0029
Warning
Be careful when removing the fork plug; the preload plug could pop out because of the spring (13) strength.
• Remove the spring guide drift 12 from the sleeve

• Remove spring (13) from sleeve (11).
REFITTING THE RIGHT FORK WITH LOWERED SPRING
Add oil to the LH leg until reaching the filling value of 523 cu. cm.
Fit in the damper rod tool (D) part no. 88713.0958.
PART NO. IMAGE
88713.0958
Use a CH 26 spanner to drive the nut (21) against the lower stop so that the Plug (10) can reach the end of its travel during refitting and
tightening operations.
Insert the lowered spring (14) inside the sleeve (1), orientating it with the narrowest part facing upwards.
Important
The spring (14) must be oriented and positioned as indicated.
Insert preload tube (12) on the spring and using tool (B) part no. 88713.0957 insert a spanner so as to reach the upper part of the
damper rod.
Apply the indicated product on the damper rod unit thread (10) in the positions shown in the figure.
Screw nut (21) fully home on the plug (10).
Tighten the nut (21) to a torque of 15 Nm ± 10% while holding the plug (10).
Remove tool (B) part no. 88713.0957.
Refit the forks (Refitting the front fork).
Adjusting the steering head bearing clearance
Excessive handlebar play or shaking fork in the steering head indicate that the play of the steering head bearings requires adjustment.
Proceed as follows:
Loosen the clamp screw (1) that holds the steering tube to the steering head.
From both sides of the vehicle, slacken the screw (2) securing the steering head to both fork leg clamps.
Using the special tool part no. 88713.1058 lock the ring nut (3) to a torque of 35 Nm ± 5%.
Push the steering head against the ring nut (3) and tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 18 Nm ±5% and screw (2) to a torque of 24 Nm ±
5%.
If the problems found are not solved, check the wear of steering head bearings and replace them, if necessary, as described in
paragraph "Removing the steering tube components".
Steering angle adjustment
To access the adjuster (1) located on the RH, steer the handlebar on the opposite side. Repeat the operation for the left adjuster
Make sure that the adjuster dowels are aligned as showed in the figure, otherwise proceed as follows.
Loosen completely the adjuster dowel and apply LOCK 2 on the thread, screw the steering adjuster dowel (3) on the bottom yoke (2), on
the indicated side.
Important
Make sure that the surface with the steering adjuster dowels (3) hex socket is at the same level as the bottom yoke inner surface (2) as
Screw the nut (4) fully home on the steering adjuster thread dowel (3).
Removing the steering tube components
Remove the front brake callipers (Removing the front brake system).
Remove fork legs (Removing the front fork).
Remove the light assembly (Removing the light assembly).
Remove the handlebar (Removing the handlebar).
Warning
All parts fitted to the steering head and bottom yoke, including wiring and hoses, can remain on the motorcycle provided they do not
hinder the following operations.
Loosen the screw (1) securing the steering head (2) to the ring nut (3).
Remove the steering head (2).
Using tool part no. 88713.1058 loosen the ring nut (3) and unscrew it from the steering shaft.
Slide the sealing ring (4), the inner ring (5) and the ball race (6) of the upper bearing off the steering shaft.
Remove the bottom yoke complete with the steering shaft from the frame tube.
Remove the outer ring (7), the ball race (8) and the inner ring (9).
If it is difficult to remove the outer rings (7) and (10), proceed as follows.
Use a universal puller to remove the outer rings (7) and (10) from the steering shaft, taking care not to damage the seat.
Refitting the steering tube components
Important
The steering tube bearings are identical but in no case may their components be swapped during refitting.
Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease.
To fit the outer rings (7) and (10) of bearings to the steering tube, you will need a commercial tool.
Proceed as follows:
- heat the steering tube to 150 °C;

- fit the outer rings in their seats on the steering tube;
- fit the fixed bush (13) with threaded hole of the tool into the lower ring;
- fit the other movable bush (14) into the upper end of the tool and drive it fully home against the upper bearing race;
- tighten the nut (15), and use a wrench to seat the outer rings (7) and (10) fully in the steering tube;
- leave the tool fitted until the steering tube has cooled down to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
Fit the spacer (11) on the steering shaft, until it is fully home against bottom yoke.
Fit the dust seal (12), orienting it as shown in the figure until it is fully home against the spacer (11).
Fit the internal ring (9) of the bearing in the steering shaft, orienting it as shown in the figure.
By means of a press take the inner ring (9) against the dust seal (12).
Fit the bottom yoke assembly to frame.

Grease the ball race (6) and fit it to the upper outer ring (10) of the frame.
Fit the inner ring (5) of the upper bearing to the steering head, with the larger diameter side of the race facing upwards.
Install the sealing ring (4) with the flat side facing upwards.
Apply the indicated product on the ring nut (3) thread.
Tighten the adjuster ring nut (3) by hand until it seats against the sealing ring (4).
Fit on ring nut (3) the special bush no. 88713.1058 and fit the torque wrench on it.
Tighten ring nut (3) to a torque of 35 Nm ± 5%.
Fit the steering head (2) on the ring nut (3), aligning the fork leg seats with the corresponding seats on the bottom yoke.
Refit the fork legs. Apply the specified product to screw (1).
Tighten screw (1) on steering head to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5%.
Refit the handlebar and the U-bolts (Refitting the handlebar).

Refit the light assembly (Refitting the light assembly).
Refit fork legs (Refitting the front fork).
Refit the front wheel (Refitting the front wheel).
Removing the rear shock absorber
Duly support the rear side of the vehicle, as shown in the figure.
Working on motorcycle RH side, loosen and remove special screw (1) retaining the rear subframe.
Loosen the two special screws (2) and remove the rear shock absorber (3).
Collect spacers with collar (4) and dust seals (5) located on either sides of the rear shock absorber (3).
Overhauling the rear shock absorber
Important
For any problem concerning the shock absorber operation, contact a KAYABA authorised service centre.
Refitting the rear shock absorber
Insert dust seals (5) on spacers with collar (4), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit spacers with collar (4) with dust seals (5) on either sides of the rear shock absorber (3), by inserting them inside the relevant seats
and driving them fully home.
Apply the indicated product to the thread and underhead of the two special screws (2).
Refit the rear shock absorber (3), aiming it as shown in the figure, and start the two special screws (2).
Tighten the special screws (2) to a torque of 42 Nm ± 5%.
Apply the indicated product to special screw (1) thread and underhead.
Start special screw (1) on rear subframe.
Tighten the special screw (1) to a torque of 150 Nm ± 5%.
Remove bike supporting tool.
Assembling the lowered spring kit
REMOVING THE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER SPRING
Remove the rear shock absorber (Removing the rear shock absorber).
Fit the rear shock absorber (1) on the spring puller and compress the spring (2) just enough to remove the plate (3).
Remove the plate (3) from the rear shock absorber (1).
Decompress and remove the spring (2) from the rear shock absorber (1).
FITTING THE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER LOWERED SPRING
Fit lowered spring (4) into rear shock absorber (1).

Compress the lowered spring (4) just as much as needed to refit the plate (3).
Fit the plate (3) into the rear shock absorber (1).
Decompress the lowered spring (4) and remove rear shock absorber (1) from the relevant spring puller.
Refit the rear shock absorber (Refitting the rear shock absorber).
Removing the swinging arm
Before removing the concerned parts, you must first carry out the following operations.
Remove the exhaust silencer (Removing the silencer).
Remove the footpeg holder plates (Removing the footpeg holder plates).
Remove the rear mudguard (Removing the rear mudguard).
Remove the rear brake calliper (Removing the rear brake calliper).
Release the rear shock absorber bottom part (Removing the rear shock absorber).
Loosen screw (1) and remove the rear speed sensor (2) by collecting the shims (3).
Undo the screw (4) and remove the hose cover (A).
Release the rear brake calliper/ABS control unit hoses (5) and the rear speed sensor (2) from the swinging arm.
Remove screw (6) securing the hose grommet (B).
Remove the calliper holder plate (7).
Working on both sides of the rear swinging arm (8), remove the snap rings (C) from the swingarm shaft (9).
Loosen the swinging arm retaining clamp (10) by holding nut (11) on the opposite side of the swinging arm.
Slide out the swingarm shaft (9) by recovering the shims (D).
Removing the chain sliding shoes
Loosen the two screws (12) and remove the lower sliding shoe (13).
Loosen screw (14) and slide out the upper sliding shoe (15).
Inspecting the swinging arm shaft
Before refitting the swinging arm shaft (15), check it carefully for distortion.
Turn the shaft on a reference surface and measure distortion using a feeler gauge.
Replace swinging arm shaft (8) if the measured value is different from the one specified in section "Rear wheel."
Refitting the rear swinging arm
Prefitting the chain sliding shoes
Position lower chain sliding shoe (13) on swinging arm and secure it by starting screws (3).
Tighten the two screws (12) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Fit upper chain sliding shoe (15) in the opening on swinging arm from the front side and insert tooth (E) into recess (F) on the rear side,
as shown in the figure.
Fix the upper chain sliding shoe (15) by starting the screw (14).
Refitting the swinging arm
Use grease to lubricate the bearings on the crankcase.

Apply the indicated product to swingarm shaft (9).
Refit the swinging arm, insert the swingarm shaft (9) after inserting the shims (D).
Fit snap ring (C) and drive shaft (9) fully home inside swinging arm.
Insert the other snap ring (C) from the opposite side.
Apply the indicated product to the thread of the swinging arm retainer clamp (10).
Insert the swinging arm retainer clamp (10) fully home into its seat on the swinging arm, orienting it as shown in the figure.
Tighten the swinging arm retainer, while holding nut (11) on the opposite side, to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5%.
Position the rear brake calliper / ABS control unit hoses (5) and rear speed sensor (2) and secure them to the swinging arm using the
hose grommet (A).
Insert inside the hose grommet (B) the rear brake calliper/ABS control unit hoses (5) and the rear speed sensor (2).
Start and tighten screw (6) that retains the hose grommet (B) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the calliper holder plate (7), making sure that the block (G) on the swinging arm is inserted into the seat (H) of the calliper holder
plate (7).
Refit the rear mudguard (Refitting the rear mudguard).
Refit the rear brake calliper (Refitting the rear brake calliper).
Then check the air-gap of the ABS sensor (Adjusting the air-gap of phonic wheel sensor).
Fix the rear shock absorber (Refitting the rear suspension).
Refit the RH and LH footpeg holder plates (Refitting footpeg holder plates).
Refit the exhaust silencer (Refitting the silencer).
Inspection of the final drive
To check the final drive wear, visually check the front sprocket (1) and the rear sprocket (2).
If the teeth are worn as shown in the figure (dotted line), the final drive must be replaced.
Warning
Make sure that the rear sprocket, front sprocket and chain are all replaced together as a set.
Removing the front sprocket
Undo the screws (2), and remove the sprocket cover (1).
Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension).
Remove the chain using tool (X) part no. 88713.1344.

The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), a body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E).
Fit the link to be opened into the holder (A).
Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and manually undo the screw until the punch no longer protrudes.
Fit the holder (A) and the link into the body (C).
Manually turn the bolt (F) on body (C) so that the punch (B) gets against the pin, taking care that they are aligned.
Fit the hexagon wrench (D) into the hexagonal part of the body (C) and the wrench (E) onto the bolt.
Turn clockwise the bolt (F) until the pin comes out.
The link from the spare parts comes in a bag with the O-rings. During assembly, and to the extent available, add the grease contained in
the bag.
Warning
Do not clean elements from their grease: upon assembly, take the link from the plate and not from the pins (see figure below).
Remove the chain.

Engage the first gear and loosen nut (3).
Remove nut (3) and lock washer (4) on sprocket.
Remove the front sprocket (5) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Remove the spacer (6) with O-ring (7) and washer (8) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Important
The O-ring must be renewed upon removal.
Refitting the front sprocket
Check that the spacer (6) is installed on the gearbox secondary shaft.
Refit the ring (8).
Grease the O-ring (7), and install it on the front sprocket spacer (6).
Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of the bearing.
Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the front sprocket (5) on the gearbox secondary shaft, orienting it as shown and pushing it over the groove.
Fit lock washer (4).
After having applied the recommended threadlocker, tighten the nut (3) to a torque of 186 Nm ±5%.
Bend the washer (4) over the nut.
The link from the spare parts comes in a bag with the O-rings. During assembly, and to the extent available, add the grease contained in
the bag.
Warning
Do not clean elements from their grease: upon assembly, take the link from the plate and not from the pins (see figure below).
Fit the chain and close it using the tool (X) no. 88713.1344, which was used to open the chain.
The tool consists of a holder (A), a punch (B), a body (C), two wrenches (D) and (E) and a plate holder (F).
Connect the two ends of the chain with the external link, and manually fit the plate onto the pins.
Warning
Lubricate the pins abundantly; try to avoid touching them with your hands.
Fit the holder (A) onto the external link.

Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and the plate holder (F).
Fit the body (C) onto the holder (A) which holds the chain in position.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the plate holder (F) is seated against the plate itself.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt (G) clockwise until the chain pin is in contact with the holder (F).
Remove the holder (A) from the tool.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the punch (B) is brought into contact with the pin to be riveted, taking care that they are aligned.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt clockwise until the punch (B) is seated against the chain plate.
To complete riveting, repeat the entire procedure with the second pin.
Warning
Carefully check the two pins: the figure shows the correct result of the procedure.
Tension the chain (Adjustment of chain tension).
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (2).
Fit the sprocket cover (1) and tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10 %.
Replacing the rear sprocket
Loosen the five nuts (1) and remove rear sprocket (2) from rear sprocket flange.
Remove the rear sprocket flange (3) from the rear wheel rim.
Remove the rubber bushings (4) from the rear wheel rim.
Remove the spacers (5) and (6) from the rear sprocket flange (3).
Remove the snap ring (7), the bearing (8), the spacer (9) and the bearing (8) from the rear sprocket flange (3).
Loosen the cush drive damper pins (10) from the rear sprocket flange (3).
Refitting the rear sprocket
Apply the specified product to the bigger thread of cush drive damper pins (10).
Start the cush drive damper pins (10) on the rear sprocket flange (3), screwing them anticlockwise.
Tighten cush drive damper pins (10) to a torque of 46 Nm ± 5%.
Refit the bearing (8), the spacer (9), the bearing (8) and the snap ring (7) in the rear sprocket flange (3).
Refit the spacers (5) and (6) on rear sprocket flange (3), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Refit the rubber bushings (4) in the seats of the rear wheel rim.
Refit the rear sprocket flange (3) in the rear wheel rim.
Apply the indicated product to the threads of nuts (1).
Refit the rear sprocket (2) on the rear sprocket flange, aiming it with the projections (A) looking outward and screw the nuts (1).
Tighten nuts (1) to a torque of 46 Nm ± 5%.
Check for wear as described under section "Inspection of the final drive".
Washing the chain
Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin.

Do not use fuel, trichloroethylene or other solvents which will damage the rubber O-rings. For the same reason use only sprays
specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
Lubricating the chain
O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes.

However, these chains need to be lubricated at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O-rings.
Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency.
Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both inside and outside.
Removing the footpegs
REMOVING THE FRONT LH FOOTPEG
Remove circlip (1), washer (2) and slide out pin (3) by supporting the LH footpeg (4).
Remove footpeg (4) from the seat of the front LH footpeg holder plate (5) and collect spring (6).
If necessary, remove the footpeg rubber cover (7) from the LH footpeg (4).
REMOVING THE REAR LH FOOTPEG
Remove the circlip (8), the washer (9) by releasing the pin (10).
Slide out pin (10) from the LH footpeg holder plate (5), holding the footpeg (4) and making sure that the ball (11), the spring (12) and the
retainer (13) are not released.
Remove footpeg (4) from the seat of the front LH footpeg holder plate (5) and collect spring (12), the ball (11) and the retainer (13).
If necessary, remove the footpeg rubber cover (7) from the LH footpeg (4).
REMOVING THE FRONT RH FOOTPEG
Remove circlip (14), washer (15) and slide out pin (16) by supporting the RH footpeg (17).
Remove footpeg (17) from the seat of the front RH footpeg holder plate (18) and collect spring (19).
If necessary, remove the footpeg rubber cover (20) from the RH footpeg (17).
REMOVING THE REAR RH FOOTPEG
Remove the circlip (21), the washer (22) by releasing the pin (23).
Slide out pin (23) from the RH footpeg holder plate (18), holding the footpeg (17) and making sure that the ball (24), the spring (25) and
the retainer (26) are not released.
Remove footpeg (17) from the seat of the RH footpeg holder plate (19) and collect spring (25), the ball (24) and the retainer (26).
If necessary, remove the footpeg rubber cover (20) from the RH footpeg (17).
Refitting the footpegs
REFITTING THE LH FOOTPEGS
Apply the indicated product on the rubber footpeg cover (7).

Fit the rubber footpeg cover (7) by inserting it in the relevant seat of the LH footpeg (4), until the teeth (A) engage.
Position the spring (6) by bringing its end into contact with the LH footpeg (4), as shown in the figure.
Move the LH footpeg (4) to the correct position, by inserting the other end of the spring (6) inside hole (B) of the LH footpeg holder plate
(5).
Apply the indicated product to pin (3).
Insert pin (3) in the LH footpeg holder plate (5), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit washer (2) on pin (3) projection.
Lock pin (3) by inserting circlip (1), as shown in the figure.
Check the correct operation of the LH footpeg (4).

Fit the rubber footpeg cover (7) by inserting it in the relevant seat of the LH footpeg (4), until the teeth (A) engage.
Insert footpeg retainer (13) into the hole (C) of the LH footpeg holder plate (5), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Insert the spring (12) into the special hole of the LH footpeg (4).
Fit the ball (11) on the spring (12).
Fit the LH footpeg (4) to the LH footpeg holder plate (5) fitting pin (10), positioning parts as shown in the figure.
Check the correct operation of the LH footpeg (4).
REFITTING THE RH FOOTPEGS

Fit the rubber footpeg cap (20) by inserting it in the relevant seat of the RH footpeg (17), until the teeth (D) engage.
Position the spring (19) by bringing its end into contact with the RH footpeg (17), as shown in the figure.
Move the RH footpeg (17) to the correct position, by inserting the other end of the spring (19) inside hole (E) of the RH footpeg holder
plate (18).
Insert pin (16) in the RH footpeg holder plate (18), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Check the correct operation of the RH footpeg (17).
Fit the rubber footpeg cap (20) by inserting it in the relevant seat of the RH footpeg (17), until the teeth (D) engage.
Insert footpeg retainer (26) into the hole (F) of the RH footpeg holder plate (18), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Insert the spring (25) into the special hole of the RH footpeg (17).
Fit the ball (24) on the spring (25).
Fit the RH footpeg (17) to the RH footpeg holder plate (18) fitting pin (23), positioning parts as shown in the figure.
Check the correct operation of the RH footpeg (17).
Removing the footpeg holder plate
REMOVING THE RH FOOTPEG HOLDER PLATE
Remove the glove compartment (Removing the rear subframe).
Disconnect the rear stop sensor connector (A), by releasing it from all its fixing points (Branch 9).
Working on the RH side of the motorcycle, undo screw (1) that retains the RH footpeg holder plate to the silencer, while holding nut (2)
from the opposite side and collect washer (3).
Loosen rear brake fluid reservoir (5) retaining screw (4).
Loosen screws (6) and remove rear brake master cylinder (7) by sliding it out of the brake control rod (B) and from the relevant support
(8).
Apply commercial pliers (C) on hose (9) as shown in the figure.
Loosen the special screw (10) with the washer (11).
Loosen screws (12) and remove the RH footpeg holder plate (13).
REMOVING THE LH FOOTPEG HOLDER PLATE
Working on the left side of the motorcycle, disconnect the Quick-shift control connector (E) by releasing the cable from all its fixing points
(Branch 1).
Release the gear shift con-rod (D) from the gear selector shaft (Removing the gear shift).
Undo screw (14) securing the con-rod to the silencer.

Undo the “short” screw (17), the “long” screw (18) and remove the LH footpeg holder plate (19) by recovering the washers (20).
Refitting the footpeg holder plate
PRE-FITTING THE LH FOOTPEG HOLDER PLATE
Apply the indicated product to the end (E) of the silent-block (21).
Insert the silent-block (21) to the LH footpeg holder plate (19) by bringing it fully home.
Carefully clean the LH footpeg holder plate (19) of any excess lubricant.
Apply the indicated product to the vibration dampers (22).

Insert the vibration dampers (22) on the LH footpeg holder plate (19) aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit vibration dampers (23) on con-rod (24).

Insert the spacers with collar (25) in the lower damper of con-rod (24).
Insert the threaded bushing (26) in the upper damper of the con-rod (24), as shown in the figure.
Position the con-rod (24), on the side of the just-mounted threaded bushing, on the LH footpeg holder plate (19), orienting it as shown in
the figure.
Start the screw (27) to secure the con-rod (24) on the LH footpeg holder plate (19).
Tighten the screw (27) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, while holding the hexagon of the threaded bushing (26).
Fit the front and rear LH footpegs (Refitting the footpegs).

Fit the gear shift (Refitting the gear shift).
REFITTING THE LH FOOTPEG HOLDER PLATE
Position the washers (20) on the LH footpeg holder plate (19) and, on the opposite side, start the “short” screw (17), the “long” screw
(18), as shown in the figure.
Working on the motorcycle LH side, position the LH footpeg holder plate (19) on the motorcycle and start the screws (17) and (18).
Insert washer (16) on the thread of the special screw (15).
Apply the specified product to the thread of the special screw (15).
Start the special screw (15) on the LH footpeg holder plate (19).
Position the con-rod on the silencer and start screw (14).
Refit the gear shift con-rod (D) on the gear selector shaft (Refitting the gear shift).
Connect the Quick shift connector (E), by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 1).
PRE-FITTING THE RH FOOTPEG HOLDER PLATE
Apply the indicated product to the end (F) of the silent-block (28).
Insert the silent-block (28) to the RH footpeg holder plate (13) by bringing it fully home.
Carefully clean the RH footpeg holder plate (13) of any excess lubricant.
Insert the vibration dampers (29) on the RH footpeg holder plate (13) aiming them as shown in the figure.
Insert silent-blocks (30) in the RH footpeg holder plate (13), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Insert bushing (31) on silent-block (30) from the side indicated in the figure.
Fit the front and rear RH footpegs (Refitting the footpegs).
Fit the rear brake control and the rear stop sensor (Refitting the rear brake control).
REFITTING THE RH FOOTPEG HOLDER PLATE
Working on the motorcycle RH side, position the RH footpeg holder plate (13) on the motorcycle and start the screws (12) without
tightening them.

Start the special screw (10) on the RH footpeg holder plate (13).
Remove the commercial pliers (C) from hose (9).
Apply the specified product to the thread of screws (6).
Refit the rear brake master cylinder (7) on the relevant support (8) and insert it on the brake control rod (B) and start screws (6).
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on screw thread (4). Otherwise, use the indicated product.
Position the rear brake fluid reservoir (5) on the support (8) and start screw (4).
Start screw (1) that retains the RH footpeg holder plate to the silencer, from the opposite side, fit washer (3) on the thread of screw (1)
and then screw nut (2).
Connect the rear stop sensor connector (A) and position it by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 9).
Refit the glove compartment (Refitting the rear subframe).
Removing the side stand
Disconnect the side stand sensor connector (A) referring to chapter “Branch 1”.
By loosening the screws (3) and (4), remove the side stand plate (5) together with the side stand assembly (6).
Collect the washer (7) on screw (4).
Disassembling the side stand
Loosen the retaining screw (1) and remove stand sensor (2).
Release stand return springs (8) and (9) disengaging them from pin (B) and hook (C).
Unscrew the pin (10) securing the side stand to the relevant plate (5) and remove side stand (6) and nut (11).
Inspecting the side stand
Fit the side stand to the plate and check that there is no excessive clearance. Ensure that the ends of the side stand are not bent with
respect to the shank.
A side stand which shows signs of deformation or breakage must be replaced immediately.
Refitting the side stand
Reassembling the side stand

Insert the side stand (6) in the side stand plate (5).
Remove any residual grease from the pin (10).
Apply the specified grease to the pin (10) and then apply the specified threadlocker to the protrusion of the pin (10).
Start and tighten the shaft (10) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10%.
Apply the indicated threadlocker and tighten nut (11) to a torque of 24 Nm ± 10%.
Position the stand return springs (8) and (9) by fixing them to pin (B) and hook (C).
Refit the side stand sensor (2) and fix it by tightening screw (1) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the side stand plate (5) together with the side stand assembly (6).
Place the washer (7) on screw (4).
Start and tighten screw (4) to a torque of 36 Nm ± 10%.
Reconnect the side stand sensor connector (A) referring to chapter “Branch 1”.
Removing structural components and frame
To carry out the necessary checks on the frame, remove all the fitted superstructures, referring to the removal procedures outlined in the
relevant sections of this manual.
Remove the engine from the frame (Removing the engine).

Remove the forks (Removing the front forks).
Remove the steering tube components (Removing the steering tube components).
Loosen the two screws (2) and remove the voltage regulator (1).
Remove the rubber block (4) from the upper side of the frame.
Working on frame lower side, loosen the two screws (6) and remove the ABS support (5).
Remove the two rubber pads (7) releasing the pins (8).
Loosen the two screws (9), remove the ABS bracket (10), the washer (11) and the heat protection (12).
Loosen the screws (13), remove washers (14) and heat protection (15).
Remove the homologation plate support (17) loosening the two screws (16).
Removing the light assembly
Remove the instrument panel cover (1) by loosening the fixing screws (2) and recovering the spacers with collar (3).
Disconnect instrument panel connector (A).

Remove the upper screws (4) retaining the headlight (5).
Remove the lower screws (6) retaining the headlight (5).
Pull the headlight towards the front of the vehicle and disconnect the connector (B) of the headlight on its left side and the connector (C)
of the air temperature sensor on the right side of the headlight.
Loosen the screw (8) securing the front wiring guide (9) and release the front wiring.
Slide the electrical connector pad (7) upwards.
Remove the headlight (5).
Removing the rear subframe

Remove the battery (Removing the battery).
REMOVING THE HEADLIGHT AND THE FRONT WIRING

Disconnect all electric connectors by referring to chapter “Branch 11”.
Remove the LH (8) and RH (9) plugs by loosening screws (10).

Remove the electric connector pad (11) fixed on the U-bolt (12).
Disconnect the immobilizer antenna connector (D) and ignition switch wiring (E)
ELECTRIC FAN CONNECTOR
Working on the left side of the motorcycle, release the connecting rod (1) from the lower water radiator bracket (2) by pulling out the pin
(A) from the rubber block (15).
Move the water radiator (2) towards the front of the motorcycle, so as to reach the fan connector (B), located behind the frame.
Disconnect the fan connector (B).
It is not necessary to remove the water radiator in order to remove the rear subframe.
DISASSEMBLING THE COOLING SYSTEM HOSE
Loosen the screws (2) and remove the engine cylinder head protection (1) by releasing the pin (A) from the rubber block (B) on the
vertical head wiring support (3).
GEAR SENSOR CONNECTOR
Disconnect the gear sensor connector (D).

ABS CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR
Disconnect the connector of the ABS control unit (F).
PURGE VALVE CONNECTOR
Disconnect connector (A) from the purge valve (1).

REMOVING THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT
Remove the screws (1) and (2) and lift the glove compartment (3).
Remove the glove compartment (3).
REMOVING THE REAR SUBFRAME
Disconnect rear speed sensor (A) and rear stop light (B) by disconnecting the connectors.
Disconnect the vertical oxygen sensor (D) by disconnecting the connector. To check the wiring position, refer to chapter “Branch 5”.
Remove all remaining electric connectors that could hinder rear subframe removal (Routing of wiring on frame).
Working on both sides of the vehicle, loosen the two special screws (1).
Duly support the rear subframe (4).
Working on the RH side, loosen the fixing pin (2) and collect nut (3) on the LH side.
Remove the rear subframe (4) together with the electrical wiring.
Refitting the structural parts and frame
Position the voltage regulator assembly (1) in the inner side of the frame, engaging the pin (3) into the vibration damper.
Start the two screws (2) to secure the voltage regulator assembly (1) to the frame.
Fit vibration damper (4) on frame, as shown in the figure.
Position ABS hose support (5) on frame and start two screws (6) on the inner side of the frame.
Fit two pads (7) by “pulling” the relevant pins (8) on the side opposite to insertion, until poppets come out completely, as shown in the
figure.
Position the RH heat protection (12) on the outer side of the frame.
Place a washer (11) on the thread of a screw (9) and start it on the rear inner side of the frame.
Insert ABS hose bracket (10) on the thread of a screw (9) and start it on the front inner side of the frame.
Position the LH heat protection (15) on the outer side of the frame.
Place two washers (14) on the thread of screws (13) and start them on the inner side of the frame.
Position the homologation plate support (17) at the holes on the frame and secure it with two rivets (16), in the position shown in the
figure.
Refit the steering tube components (Refitting the steering tube components).
Refit the forks (Refitting the front forks).
Refit the engine in the frame (Refitting the engine).
Refitting the rear subframe
PREASSEMBLING THE REAR SUBFRAME
Fit the small clips (1) onto rear cross member (2), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit the big clip (3) onto rear cross member (2), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Insert large vibration dampers (4) into the rear holes of rear cross member (2).
Fit the small vibration damper (5) in the relevant hole of the rear cross member (2), orientating it as shown in the figure.
Fit the tail light in the rear cross member (Refitting the tail light).
Fit the LH mesh (9) inserting it on pins (E) of LH rear subframe (10) aiming it as shown in the figure.
Lock the LH mesh (9) using the crown fasteners (11) aiming them as shown in the figure.
Position the wiring fastening bracket (12) on the LH rear subframe (10) and start screws (13).
Fit the RH mesh (14) inserting it on pins (G) of RH rear subframe (15) aiming it as shown in the figure.
Lock the RH mesh (14) using the crown fasteners (11) aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit the rotational special ties (16) on the RH rear subframe (15) in the positions shown in the figure.
Bring the tie (16) fully home against the rib (A) of RH rear subframe (15).
Fit the special ties (17) on the RH rear subframe (15) in the positions shown in the figure.
Fit the seat release mechanism (Refitting the seat release mechanism).
Fit the clips (21) onto central cross member (22), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Position central cross member (22) on the threaded pins of subframes (10) and (15) in the position shown in the figure and start nuts
(23).
Position the rear cross member (2) with headlight on the subframes (10) and (15), as shown in the figure and start screws (24).
Position the front cross member (25) on subframes (10) and (15) as shown in the figure and start the screws (26).
Tighten the nuts (23) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 5%, following a 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 1 sequence.
Tighten screws (26) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 5%, following a 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 5 sequence.
Tighten screws (24) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 5%, following a 9 - 10 - 11 - 12 - 9 sequence.
Fit small vibration dampers (27) in the relevant holes on the electrical component support (28).
Fit large vibration damper (29) in the relevant hole on the electrical component support (28).
Fit the small clips (30) onto the electrical component support (28), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Position the bases for ties (31) on the electrical component support (28), aiming them as shown in the figure and start the screws (32).
Fit the self-locking ties (33) on the bases for ties (31), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit the self-locking tie (35) on the electrical component support (28).
Position the battery negative cable (34) on electrical component support (28), as shown in the figure and tighten the self-locking tie (35).
Position the battery negative cable (34) on the bases for ties (31) and tighten the self-locking ties (33).
Do not force the cable when tightening the ties and secure it with the most natural bends possible.
Insert the protective sheath (75) on the solenoid starter/battery positive (P) and solenoid starter/starter motor (Q) cables.
Insert the solenoid starter unit (36) on brackets (O), folding solenoid starter/battery positive cable (P) inside the battery compartment, as
Make sure that the protective sheath (75) is placed at the solenoid starter (36).
Fit the self-locking ties (37) and (38) on the electrical component support (28).
Position the solenoid starter/starter motor cable (Q) on the electrical component support (28) and tighten the self-locking tie (37) at the
yellow paint dot (R), as shown in the figure.
Tighten the self-locking tie (38).
Position the protective sheath (75) and tighten the self-locking tie (39) following the value (B) = 50 mm (1.97 in).
Do not force the cable when tightening the ties and secure it with the most natural bends possible.
Fit the rubber block (T) on the rear cross member (2), allowing the number plate connection cables (T1), (T2) and (T3) to come out from
underneath.
Insert the electrical component support (28) inside the left (10) and right (15) rear subframes, making sure that the main wiring (R) is
positioned inside the subframes as shown in the figure.
After positioning the support (28), make sure that the rubber block (T) is still in its seat.
Insert the spacers with collar (40) on the rubber blocks of the electrical component support (28) and start the screws (41) and the screw
(42).
Tighten the screw (42) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10.
Fit the clips (43) onto upper cross member (44), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Position the upper cross member (44) on subframes (10) and (15) as shown in the figure and start the screws (45).
Fit the BBS control unit (46) inside the rubber support (47), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit the BBS control unit (46), orienting it as shown in the figure, by fitting its rubber support (47) on the electrical component support (28).
Start screws (49) with washers on electrical component support (28), securing the rubber support (47).
Position the main wiring harness (R), the solenoid starter/starter motor cable (Q) and the negative battery cable (34) on the wiring fixing
bracket (12) and secure them by tightening the self-locking ties (60) in the positions shown in the figure.
Make sure that the tightening clamps (X) are facing downwards, and that the cable (34) and cable (Q) are routed above and below the
main wiring harness (R) respectively, as shown in the figure.
Connect the wiring branch (R1) to the BBS control unit (46) and secure it to the negative battery cable (34) with the self-locking tie (73)
in the position shown in the figure.
Connect wiring branch (R2) to solenoid starter (36).
Insert the diagnostic/charging socket (R3) on the corresponding tab (A1) as shown in the figure.
Connect wiring branch (R4) to tail light cable (C).
Gather the cable (C) inside the opening (D) as much as possible.
Fit the subframe cover (Refitting the seat bottom cover).

Fit the passenger strap (70) to the subframes (10) and (15), by starting the screws (69) with washers in the holes shown in the figure.
Aim the passenger strap with the mating side (Y) facing the inside of the subframe.
Fold and place the passenger strap (70) inside the rear subframe assembly.
Apply adhesive pads (71) to the subframes (10) and (15), following the value (C) = 18 mm (0.71 in).
Apply uniform pressure to the surfaces of the adhesive pads (71).
Fit number plate holder and cover under the tail guard (Refitting the number plate holder).
REFITTING THE REAR SUBFRAME
Apply the indicated product to thread and underhead of pin (2).

Refit the rear subframe (4) together with the electrical wiring on the vehicle.
Working on the right side, insert the pin (2) and secure it using the nut (3) on the left side.
Apply the indicated product to special screws (1) thread and underhead.
Start and tighten special screws (1) to a torque of 150 Nm ± 5%.
Reconnect the vertical oxygen sensor connector (D). To check the wiring position, refer to chapter “Branch 5”.
Reconnect rear speed sensor connectors (A) and rear stop light (B).
For the correct positioning of the electrical wiring and its fixing points by means of clamps or other, refer to the chapter “Routing of wiring
on frame”.
REFITTING THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT
Reconnect the USB socket connector (A).

Position glove compartment (3) and start screws (1) and (2).
CONNECTING PURGE VALVE CONNECTOR
Reconnect connector (A) to purge valve (1).
CONNECTING ABS CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR
Reconnect the connector of the ABS control unit (F).

CONNECTING GEAR SENSOR CONNECTOR
Reconnect the gear sensor connector (D).
REFITTING THE COOLING SYSTEM HOSE
Insert thermostatic valve/vertical cylinder (5) hose (4) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (C) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect breather hose (6) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (E) to a torque of 3 Nm ±10%.
Refit the LH engine cylinder head protection (1) by inserting the pin (A) into the rubber block (B) on the vertical head wiring support (3)
and starting the screws (2).
CONNECTING ELECTRIC FAN CONNECTOR
Reconnect the fan connector (B) and reposition the wiring behind the frame (Branch 2).
Apply the specified product to the pin (A).
Engage the connecting rod (1) on the lower water radiator bracket (2) by inserting the pin (A) in the rubber block (15).
REFITTING THE HEADLIGHT AND THE FRONT WIRING
Reconnect the immobilizer antenna connector (D) and ignition switch wiring (E).
Refit the electric connector pad (11) and fix it on the U-bolt (12).
Refit the LH (8) and RH (9) plugs by starting screws (10).
Reconnect all electric connectors by referring to chapter “Branch 11”.

Insert the electric connector pad (7).
Reconnect the connector (B) of the headlight on its left side and the connector (C) of the air temperature sensor on the right side of the
headlight.
Connect instrument panel connector (A).
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on screw threads (4) and (6). Should this not be the case, apply the specified
product.
Start the upper screws (4) retaining the headlight (5).
Start lower screws (6) retaining the headlight (5).
Refit the instrument panel cover (1) and start the screws (2) by placing the relevant spacers with collar (3).
Restore any previously removed electrical connections that have not been listed (Routing of wiring on frame).
Refit the battery (Refitting the battery).

Refitting the light assembly
Headlight pre-assembly
Drive the Teflon bushings (1) fully home on pins (A) of headlight support (2).
Fit the rectangular rubber buffers (3), positioning them as shown in the figure, in the indicated positions of the headlight support (2), by
“pulling” the relevant pins (B) on the side opposite to insertion, until poppets (C) come out completely, as shown in the figure.
Fit the round rubber buffers (4), aiming them as shown in the figure, in the indicated positions of the headlight support (2), letting
poppets (D) come out completely on the side opposite to insertion.
Fit rubber support (5) on the headlight support (2), positioning it as shown in the figure.
Fit the air temperature sensor (6) inside the rubber support (5), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit the vibration dampers (7) on the relevant brackets of headlight support (2).
Insert spacers (8) inside vibration dampers (7), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit the plate (9) on the headlight support (2), on the other side, position the headlight adjustment guide (10) and start the screws (11).
Screw the adjustment screw (12) on the headlight adjustment guide (10) so that it is “flush” with the plate (9), as shown in the figure.
Apply the product indicated on the ball of the adjusting ball screw (12).
Position the spring (13) on the headlight support (2) by inserting the tab (F) inside the recess (G) and start the screw (14).
Tighten screw (14) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Position the headlight frame (15) on the headlight support (2) and start the screws (16).
Apply the neoprene pads (24) on the headlight frame (25), positioning them as shown in the figure.
Fit the headlight frame (25) on the headlight (17) and start the screw (26).
Tighten the screw (26) to a torque of 0.5 Nm ± 10%.
Position the headlight support unit (2) on the headlight (17) by centring bushings (1) on the relevant grooves.
Drive the bushings (19) fully home on the caps (20) with the chamfered side (M) facing the cap for an easier installation.
Position the caps (20) on headlight (17) by centring them with bushings (1).
recommended.
Insert elastic washers (21) on the thread of screws (22).
Start the screws (22) with washers (21) on caps (20).
Press on the underside of the headlight support (2) and insert the ball (N) of the adjusting screw (12) into the corresponding recess (O)
on the headlight (17).
Warning: Insert the ball (N) inside the recess (O) using only the specific Nylon pad (Q) to avoid damaging the headlight adjustment
system.
Position the tool (P) between the headlight (17) and the headlight support (2) in the position shown in the figure.
Tool (P) is available in versions "1803" (part no. 88713.7335) and "1803 LOW" (part no. 88713.7338). Use the correct tool according to
the version of motorbike on which it is to be mounted.
Tighten the adjustment screw (12), bringing the headlight support (2) fully home on tool (P).
Remove tool (P).
Refitting the headlight
Insert the electric connector pad (7) in the corresponding seat of the headlight.
Position the front wiring inside the wiring guide (9) and tighten the screw (8) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the connector (B) of the headlight on its left side and the connector (C) of the air temperature sensor on the right side of the
headlight.
recommended.
Refit the instrument panel cover (1) by starting the fixing screws (2) and placing the relevant spacers with collar (3).
Removing the number plate holder
Loosen the screws (1) and remove the undertail cover (2) from the rear subframe.
Remove the button tie (A) and disconnect the number plate light connector (3), the left rear turn indicator connector (4) and the right rear
turn indicator connector (5).
Unscrew the screws (6) and remove the number plate holder assembly (7).
DISASSEMBLING THE NUMBER PLATE HOLDER UNIT
Loosen the screws (8) and remove the plate (9) from the lower support (10).
Loosen the screws (11) and remove the lower support (10) from the number plate holder (12).
Remove the self-locking ties (13) to release the number plate light wiring (3), the left rear turn indicator (4) and the right rear turn
indicator (5).
Remove the left (4) and right (5) turn indicators from the upper support (14), taking care not to damage the respective wiring.
Valid only for the USA version
Undo screw (15) and remove the spacer (16) from the LH turn indicator (4).
Repeat the same operation for the RH turn indicator.
Valid for all versions
Remove the upper support (14) from the number plate holder (12), taking care not to damage the number plate light wiring.
Remove the washers (17) from the rubber elements.
Loosen the nuts (18) and remove the rear cat’s eye (19) from the number plate holder (12).
Loosen the screws (20) and remove the number plate light (3) from the upper support (14).
Loosen the screws (21) and (22) and remove the reinforcement bracket (23) from the number plate holder (12).
Remove the spacer with collar (24) from the number plate holder (12).
Remove the rubber elements (25) from the number plate holder (12).
Refitting the number plate holder
PRE-FITTING THE NUMBER PLATE HOLDER UNIT
Replace the rubber blocks (25) in the number plate holder (12) by aligning them as shown in the figure.
Position the reinforcement bracket (23) on the number plate holder (12), aiming it as shown in the figure and start screws (22).
Position the spacer with collar (24) in the number plate holder (12), aiming it as shown in the figure and start screws (21).
Fit clips (26) on the number plate holder compartment (12), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Position the number plate light (3) on the upper support (14), aiming it as shown in the figure and start the screws (20).
While tightening screws (20), make sure that the gap between number plate light (3) and the upper support (14) is the same on both
sides.
Fit the rear cat's eye (19) of the number plate holder (12) with the marks facing up.
Fit the nuts (18) on the threaded ends of the rear cat's eye (19).
Tighten nuts (18) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Position the washers (17) on the rubber blocks of the number plate holder (12).
Insert the number plate light cable (3) into the indicated opening of the number plate holder (12), as shown in the figure, until the upper
support (14) rests on the washers (17).
Position the right (5) and left (4) turn indicators in the upper support (14), routing the relevant cables under the bracket (B) as shown in
the figure.
Valid only for the USA version
Insert the cable of the left turn indicator (4) inside the spacer (16), on the indicated side.
Couple the left turn indicator (4) to the spacer (16) and secure the parts by starting the screw (15).
Repeat the same operation for the RH turn indicator.
Valid for all versions
Secure the wiring of number plate light (3), left rear turn indicator (4) and right rear turn indicator (5) to the clips using the self-locking
ties (13).
Tie the wiring together using a self-locking tie (13), in the position shown in the figure.
Apply the specified product on the stud bolts (C) of the lower support (10).
Position the lower support (10) by inserting the stud bolts (C) in the rubber blocks (25) and check that the washers (17) are still present
under the rubber blocks (25).
Start and tighten screws (11) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Position the plate (9) on the lower support (10) and start screws (8).
FITTING THE NUMBER PLATE HOLDER UNIT
Position the number plate holder unit (7) on the rear subframe and start the screws (6).
Connect the number plate light connector (3), the left rear turn indicator connector (4) and the right rear turn indicator connector (5).
Group and tie the connectors together using the button tie (A), as shown in the figure.
If previously removed, apply the adhesive pad (27) to the indicated position of the undertail cover (2).
Position the undertail cover (2) on the rear subframe, taking care not to crush the wiring at the rear, and start the screws (1).
Removing the tail light
Disconnect the tail light connector (1).

Loosen and remove the two screws (2) retaining the tail light (4), collecting the washers (3).
Remove the tail light (4), sliding it towards the rear side by releasing the large pins (A) from the rubber blocks (B) and the small pin (C)
from the rubber block (D).
Check the conditions of the rubber elements (B).
Refitting the tail light
Apply the specified product to rubber blocks (B) and (D).

Fit the tail light (4) by inserting the large pins (A) into the rubber blocks (B) and the small pin (C) into the rubber block (D), until fully
home.
During this operation, take care to insert the tail light connector (1) inside opening (E).

Start and tighten screws (2) to a torque of 1.8 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the tail light connector (1).

Removing the fuel tank

Remove the ignition switch cover (Removing the ignition switch).
REMOVING THE FRONT TURN INDICATORS
Working on either sides of the motorcycle, loosen the screws (1) that retain the LH (2) and RH (3) turn indicators.
Slide the turn indicator (2) outwards and disconnect the connector (A).
Repeat the operation to remove the RH turn indicator.
REMOVING THE FUEL TANK PANELS
Working on the right side of the motorcycle, loosen the screws (4) securing the right tank panel (5).
Loosen the screw (6) for fixing the lower right tank panel (5).
Taking care not to apply excessive force, slide the right tank panel (5) towards the front of the vehicle.
During this operation, release the small teeth (B) from their seats (C) and the five hooks (D) from their recesses (E).
Repeat the operations to remove the left tank panel (7).
REMOVING THE FUEL TANK
Working on both sides of the fuel tank (8), remove the fixing screws (9).
Remove the screws (10) that fasten the front side of the fuel tank.
Loosen screws (11) and remove canister cover (12).
Loosen screws (13) and remove the generator wiring cover (14).
Remove the button ties (F) and (G) by releasing the tank drain pipe (15).
Slide out the tank drain hose (15) to facilitate removal of the fuel tank from the vehicle.
Lift the rear of the fuel tank (8) and disconnect the quick connector (16) and the pump connector (17).
Disconnect the tank ground connector (K).
Lift the front part of the fuel tank (8); remove the clamps (18) and disconnect the drain hose (15) and the breather hose (19) from the fuel
tank.
Remove the fuel tank (8).
REMOVING THE FUEL TANK COVER
Loosen screws (20) with washers (21) securing the right tank cover (22).
Remove the right-hand tank cover (22) from the fuel tank (8) by disconnecting the dual-locks (23) and (24) and releasing the pins (H)
from the rubber blocks (25).
Repeat the operations to remove the left-hand tank cover (26).

Removing the tank filler plug
Loosen the three screws (1) that retain the tank plug (2).
Open the tank plug (2).

Loosen the screw (3) and remove the tank plug (2) from fuel tank (4).
Refitting the tank filler plug
If previously removed, apply product to the two points on the underside of the edge (A) of the breather rubber block (5).
Fit the breather rubber block (5) fully home into the fuel tank hole (4) and orientate as shown in the figure.
Rotate the breather rubber block (5) by 90° clockwise and 180° anticlockwise, in the sequence shown in the figure, to distribute the
product applied previously.
Position the tank plug (2) in the fuel tank seat (4), orienting it as shown in the figure and tighten the screw (3).
Close the tank plug (2) and tighten the three screws (1).
Tighten the three screws (1) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
Removing the fuel tank flange
Loosen the six screws (1) and remove the fuel pump (2) from fuel tank (3).
Before refitting, carefully remove any deposits or scale from all parts.
Refitting the fuel tank flange
Insert the fuel pump (2) into the fuel tank seat (3).
Start the screws (1) on the fuel pump (2).
Tighten the screws (1) to 5 Nm ± 10%, following the indicated sequence.

Refitting the fuel tank
PRE-ASSEMBLING THE FUEL TANK COVER
Apply dual-locks (23) to the designated surfaces of the right-hand tank cover (22).
Apply even pressure to the outer surfaces of the dual-locks (23).
Fit the clip (27) in the indicated area of the right-hand tank cover (22), orientating it as shown in the figure.
Repeat the operations for pre-assembly of the left-hand tank cover.
PRE-ASSEMBLING THE FUEL TANK

Fit the vibration dampers (28) on the brackets at the rear of the fuel tank (8).
Insert the spacers with collar (29) in the vibration dampers (28), orienting them as shown in the figure.
Fit the fuel pump (Refitting the tank flange).
Fit clips (30) in the indicated areas of the fuel tank (8), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit the fuel tank (Refitting the tank plug).
Apply the dual-locks (24) to the designated surfaces of the fuel tank (8), as shown in the figure.
Apply even pressure to the outer surfaces of the dual-locks (24).
Fit rubber blocks (25) into fuel tank brackets (8), orientating them as shown in the figure.
Fit the vibration dampers (31) in the relevant seats of the fuel tank (8), orientating them as shown in the figure.
Insert the spacers with collar (32) in the vibration dampers (31), orienting them as shown in the figure.
Apply the anti-abrasion protection (33) in the indicated area of the fuel tank (8), starting from point (I), as shown in the figure.
REFITTING THE FUEL TANK COVER
Apply the indicated product to the pins (H) and rubber blocks (25).
Position the right-hand tank cover (22) on the fuel tank (8), inserting the pins (H) into the rubber blocks (25).
Press on the rear part of the right-hand tank cover (22) making the dual-locks (23) adhere to the dual-locks (24).
Start the screws (20) with the washers (21) on the right-hand tank cover (22).
Repeat the operations to refit the left-hand tank cover (26).
Make sure that the coupling areas between the right (22) and left (26) tank covers and the fuel tank (8) are equidistant and aligned along
its entire length, as shown in the figure.
REFITTING THE FUEL TANK
If previously removed, reposition the tank drain pipe (15) in the upper part between the frame and the airbox, as shown in the figure.
Refit the fuel tank (8).
Working on the front of the fuel tank (8); connect the drain pipe (15) and the breather pipe (19) to the fuel tank (8).
Using the clamps (18) secure the drain pipe (15) and the breather pipe (19).
Working on the rear of the fuel tank (8), connect the quick connector (16) and the fuel pump connector (17).
Connect the fuel tank ground connector (K).
Reposition the tank drain pipe (15), as shown in the figure.
Refit the button tie (F), in the position shown in the figure and secure the tank drain pipe (15) to the side stand cable connector.
Refit the button tie (G) in the position shown and secure the tank drain pipe (15) to the expansion reservoir drain pipe, the canister
breather pipe and the horizontal oxygen sensor cable connector.
Refit the generator wiring cover (14), positioning the Quick-shift wiring branch (N), the side stand cable (P) and the starter motor/remote
control switch cable (Q) inside it.
Secure the wiring by inserting the airbox drain hose nozzle (R) into the generator wiring cover (14).
Start the screws (13) on the generator wiring cover (14).
Start the screws (10) that fasten the front side of the fuel tank.
Working on both sides of the fuel tank (8), start the screws (9).
PRE-ASSEMBLING THE FUEL TANK PANELS
Apply the adhesive hose grommet (34) to the designated surface of the right fuel tank panel (5), as shown in the figure.
Apply uniform pressure to the outer surface of the hose grommet (34).
Repeat the operation for the left tank panel.
REFITTING THE FUEL TANK PANELS
Couple the right tank panel (5) to the right tank cover (22) by inserting the right indicator wiring branch (S) inside the adhesive hose
grommet (34) and pull the connector (T) out of the opening (V).
Move the right tank panel (5) towards the rear, inserting the small teeth (B) into their seats (C) and the five hooks (D) into their recesses
(E).
Start the screw (6) for fixing the lower right tank panel (5).
Tighten the screws (4) on the right tank panel (5).

Repeat the operations to refit the left tank panel (7).
REFITTING THE FRONT TURN INDICATORS
Connect connector (A) of the LH turn indicator (2).
Fit the left turn indicator (2) to the left tank panel (7) by inserting the tooth (J) into the recess (L).
Repeat the operation to refit the RH turn indicator.
Working on either sides of the motorcycle, start screws (3) to fix the LH (2) and RH (3) turn indicators.
Refit the ignition switch cover (Refitting the ignition switch).
Removing the airbox and throttle body
In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle.
The removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual.
The list below indicates the components to be removed in a logical order.
This section describes only the operations to be carried out after having removed all the parts indicated in the list.
Vice front wheel and duly support vehicle front end.

Lock vehicle rear end.


Disconnect the voltage regulator (4) by disconnecting the two connectors (C).
Disconnect the air temperature sensor (5) and IMU (6) by disconnecting the connectors (D) and (E).
Disconnect the injector wiring connector (F) and the potentiometer wiring connector (G).
Disconnect the connector (H) of the throttle.
Disconnect the connector (I) of the horn.

Remove the airbox cable guide (7) by removing the screws (8).
Disconnect the connector (L) of the electric fan located behind the frame.
Disconnect the connector (M) of the horizontal map sensor and the connector (N) of the vertical map sensor.
Loosen the screws (9) and remove the connector support (10) of the injector wiring and of the potentiometer wiring.
Slide out clamp (11) and remove the secondary air system hose (12) from the vertical head.
Repeat the operation on the horizontal head, disengaging clamp (13) and removing the secondary air hose (14).
Working on the vertical cylinder, loosen clamp (15) that retains the throttle body to air box (16).
Remove the screws (17) securing the generator wiring cover (18) and release the airbox drain hose (19) by pulling it from the vehicle as
Remove the horn (20) together with its bracket by removing the fixing screw (21).
Working on the horizontal cylinder, loosen clamp (22) that retains the throttle body to the airbox (16).
Open clamp (23) and pull the blow-by pipe (24) from the airbox (16)
Remove the airbox (16) from the frame.

If necessary, remove the air filter (Replacing and cleaning air filter).
Disconnect the horizontal and vertical injector wiring (A).

Disconnect the potentiometer (D).
Refitting the airbox and throttle body
Apply the indicated product on the O-rings (19) of the two injectors (20), carefully avoiding to smear injector surfaces and using the
quantity of product strictly necessary to carry out the following assembly operations.
Fit the injectors (20) in the relevant seats on fuel pipe set (B), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Secure injectors (20) in place by inserting retaining clips (21) inside the grooves as shown in the figure.
Warning
Clips (21) must be aimed as shown in the figure and, after having driven them fully home, they must be perfectly seated both on
injectors (20) and on fuel pipe set (B).
Fit the two rubber plugs (22) in the indicated areas of the lower airbox cover, inserting them from the external side and completely
protruding the poppets (24) on the internal side (23).
USA / CAL / CDN / MEX VERSIONS ONLY
Apply the indicated product on the two rubber plugs (22), as shown in the figure.
recommended.
Connect the horizontal injector wiring branch connector and vertical injector wiring branch connector (A) to the corresponding injectors.
Note
Using three small self-locking ties (green in the figure), tie the throttle body fuel pipe set and wiring together in the indicated positions, as
Connect the connector (D) and secure the fuel pipe set (B) using screws (C), tightening them to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the vibration damper (31) in the indicated area of the upper airbox cover, orienting it as shown in the figure.
Couple the upper airbox cover to the lower one and secure the parts by tightening the screws (17) in the positions shown in the figure.
Fit seal (33) onto air temperature sensor (32), as shown in the figure.
Insert the air temperature sensor (32) in its seat on the airbox assembly (16) and secure it by tightening the screws (34).
Fit the clamp (36) on the drain hose (35).
Fit the drain hose (35) by inserting it on the corresponding fitting of the airbox assembly.
Bring clamp (36) in place and tighten it as shown in the figure.
Assemble the secondary air actuator unit (37), orienting it as shown in the figure, on the airbox assembly, by inserting the union (40) in
the vibration damper and on the pins (39) until fully home.
Position the Hellermann cable rings (42) on the airbox assembly (centring them with respect to the notches (X) and tighten the screws
(41).
Refit the air filter (Replacing and cleaning the air filter).
Insert the airbox (16) in the frame.

Insert the blow-by hose (24) in the airbox (16) and secure it with a clip (23).
Working on the horizontal cylinder, secure the throttle body to the airbox (16).
Tighten clip (22) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Position the horn assembly (20) and start the screw (21).
Reposition the generator wiring cover (18) and the drain pipe (19).
Working on the vertical cylinder, check that the throttle body is correctly inserted in the airbox (16).
Tighten the clamp (15) fixing the throttle body to the airbox (16) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Insert the secondary air pipe (12) into the vertical head union.
Tighten clip (11).
Repeat the operation on the horizontal head, inserting the secondary air pipe (14) and securing it with the clamp (13).
Position the connector support (10) and tighten screws (9) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the connector (M) of the horizontal map sensor and the connector (N) of the vertical map sensor.
Connect the connector (L) of the electric fan located behind the frame.
Reposition the airbox cable guide (7) fixing it by starting the screws (8).
Tighten screws (8).
Connect the connector (I) of the horn.

Connect the connector (H) of the throttle.
Connect the injector wiring connector (F) and the potentiometer wiring connector (G).
Connect the air temperature sensor (5) and IMU (6) by connecting the connectors (D) and (E).
Connect the voltage regulator (4) by connecting the two connectors (C).
Refit the ECU as shown in the chapter “Changing and cleaning the air filters”.
Position the airbox soundproofing cover (A).

Removing the air filters

Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits on the spark
plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter as impurities in the air could get into the engine and cause damage.
Note
Do not dispose of replaced filters into the environment.
Disposal
If filtering element is replaced, do not dispose of waste into the environment. Collect and deliver waste to authorized collecting centres.
(Absorbents, filter materials (including oil filters not otherwise specified), wiping cloths, protective clothing contaminated by dangerous
substances).
Note
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more frequently.
Remove the two connectors (1) to the ECU.
Loosen screws (2) fastening the ECU and keep washers (3). Remove the ECU.
Loosen the six screws (4) securing air filter cover (5) to the airbox upper shell (7).
Slide out the air filter (6).
Refitting the air filter
Fit the air sensor (6) on the airbox upper cover (7), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Position the air filter cover (5) on the airbox upper cover (7) and start the screws (22) in the positions shown in the figure.
Tighten the six screws (4) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%, following the sequence shown in the figure.

Removing the secondary air system

On both head covers remove the clamps (1) and remove the secondary air hose (2).
Disconnect secondary air system connector (3).

Remove the two clamps (5) and disconnect the vertical head pipe (6) and the horizontal head pipe (7).
Remove the secondary air system valve (4) by pulling it outwards.
Remove the two pipes (6) and (7).
Working on both heads, loosen the two screws (8) and remove in the following order:
- (9) secondary air valve cover;

- (10) reed valve;
- (11) spark arrestor.
Refitting the secondary air system
Fit the spark arrestor (11) in its housing on head cover, aiming it as shown in the figure, and making reference to the chamfered side (C).
Fit the reed valve (10) in its housing on the head cover, aiming it as shown in the figure, and making reference to the side with wider filler
angle (B).
Position the secondary air valve cover (9) in its seat on the head cover, orientating it as shown in the figure and matching the notch on
the head cover with the notch (A) on the secondary air valve cover.
Start the two screws (8) on the secondary air system valve cover.
Tighten the screws (8) to a torque of 6 Nm (Min.5 - Max.7).
Fit a “click” clamp (5) on the horizontal head secondary air actuator hose (6) and a “click” clamp (5) on the vertical head secondary air
actuator hose (7).
Fit the hoses (6) and (7) on the appropriate fittings of the secondary-air actuator (4), orienting them so that the references (D) on the
hoses are parallel with the upper surface (E) of the actuator.
Fit the “click” clamps (5) in correspondence with the markings (F) on the hoses (6) and (7).
Fit the hoses (6) and (7) and fix them with the two “click” clamps (5).
Warning
Carefully check to have oriented the hoses as shown in the figure and that they are aligned with the actuator according to the present
markings.
Assemble the secondary air actuator unit (4), orienting it as shown in the figure, on the airbox assembly, inserting it in the vibration
damper and on the pins (H) until fully home. Check that the union (I) and rubber blocks (G) are well inserted.
Insert the hose (6) in the secondary air valve cover of the vertical head, securing it with a clamp (1).
Insert the hose (7) in the secondary air valve cover of the horizontal head, securing it with a clamp (1).
Connect connector (3) to the secondary air actuator.

Removing the silencer
Warning
before proceeding.
Working on the RH side of the motorcycle, undo screw (1) that retains the silencer to the RH footpeg holder plate, while holding nut (2)
Loosen the clamp (4) and remove the silencer (5) from the pre-silencer (6), pulling it towards the rear side.
REMOVING THE HEAT PROTECTION
Loosen the three screws (7) and remove the heat protection (8) from the silencer (5).
Removing the exhaust system
Warning
before proceeding.
Remove the silencer (Removing the silencer).

Remove the RH footpeg holder plate (Removing the footpeg holder plate).
Remove the glove compartment (Removing the rear subframe).
Disconnect the vertical oxygen sensor connector (E) by releasing it from all its fixing points (Branch 5).
Remove the rear subframe (Removing the rear subframe).
Loosen the clamp (1).

Disconnect the horizontal oxygen sensor connector (A) by releasing it from all its fixing points (Branch 5).
Loosen the nuts (3) and remove the horizontal exhaust manifold (4), collecting gaskets (5).
Remove pre-silencer (6).
Remove the rear shock absorber (Removing the rear shock absorber).
Working on the LH side of the motorcycle, loosen vertical heat protection (9) retaining screws (7).
Working on the RH side of the motorcycle, loosen screw (7) with washer (8) and remove the vertical heat protection (9) from the vertical
exhaust manifold (10).
Loosen the nuts (11) and remove the vertical exhaust manifold (10), collecting gaskets (12).
Loosen screws (13) and (14) and remove the bracket (15) from the engine.
Loosen the screw (16), holding the hexagon of the threaded bushing (21) on the opposite side, and remove the bracket (17) from the
con-rod (18).
Refitting the exhaust system
PRE-FITTING THE PRE-SILENCER
Fit vibration dampers (19) on con-rod (18).

Insert the spacers with collar (20) in the lower damper of con-rod (19).
Insert the threaded bushing (21) in the upper damper of the con-rod (18), as shown in the figure.
Position con-rod (18) on the pre-silencer (6), aiming it as shown in the figure and start screw (22).
Position bracket (17) on the con-rod (18), aiming it as shown in the figure and start screw (16).
Tighten the screw (16) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, while holding the hexagon of the threaded bushing (21).
Fit clamps (1) and (2) on pre-silencer (6), aiming them as shown in the figure.
PRE-FITTING THE VERTICAL HEAT PROTECTION
Remove the protective film (B) on the rear side of the heat reflective material (22).
Apply the heat reflective material (22) to the inside surface of the vertical heat protection (9), orientating it as shown in the figure, by
aligning it with the external profile of the heat protection (making them perfectly coincide) and apply it towards the inside of the heat
protection.
Apply an even pressure on the heat reflective material (22), in order to facilitate its adhesion to the vertical heat protection (9) and
remove any air bubbles.
Remove the protective film (C) on the rear side of the heat reflective material (22).
Apply the remaining part of the heat reflective material (22) to the surface of the heat protection or to the vertical heat protection (9).
Check that the “V” notches of the heat reflective material (22) are positioned in line with the triangles (D) of the vertical heat protection
(9).
Apply an even pressure on the heat reflective material (22), in order to facilitate its adhesion to the vertical heat protection (9) and
remove any air bubbles.
Fit vibration dampers (23) in the relevant holes of the vertical manifold heat protection (9).
Insert spacers with collar (24) in vibration dampers (23), on the indicated side.
REFITTING THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
Fit the two clips (27) onto the bracket (15), orienting them as shown in the figure.
Position the bracket (15) on the engine and start the screw (13) and the screw (14).
If previously removed, start the vertical oxygen sensor (25) on the vertical exhaust manifold (10).
Tighten the vertical exhaust oxygen sensor (25) to a torque of 24.5 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the gaskets (12) on the stud bolts of the vertical head, orientating them as shown in the figure.
Place the vertical exhaust manifold (10) on the stud bolts and secure it by tightening the nuts (11).
Move the vertical exhaust manifold (10) fully home and tighten the nuts (11) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Insert washer (8) on the thread of screw (7).
Position the vertical heat protection (9) on the vertical exhaust manifold (10) as shown in the figure and start the screw (7).
Start screws (7) on the vertical heat protection (9).

Refit the rear shock absorber (Refitting the rear shock absorber).
Refit the pre-silencer (6) fully against the vertical exhaust manifold.
If previously removed, start the horizontal oxygen sensor (26) on the horizontal exhaust manifold (4).
Tighten the horizontal exhaust oxygen sensor (26) to a torque of 24.5 Nm ± 10%.
Fit the gaskets (5) on the stud bolts of the horizontal head, orientating them as shown in the figure.
Fit the horizontal exhaust manifold (4) by inserting it on pre-silencer (6) and on the horizontal head stud bolts and fix it by starting nuts
(3).
Move the horizontal exhaust manifold (4) fully home and tighten the nuts (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the horizontal oxygen sensor connector (A) by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 5).
Apply the specified product to tie (2).
Tighten clamp (2) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10% while keeping it in position.
Refit the rear subframe(Refitting the rear subframe).
Connect the vertical oxygen sensor connector (E) by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 5).
Refit the glove compartment (Refitting the rear subframe).
Refit the RH footpeg holder plate (Refitting the footpeg holder plate).
Refit the silencer (Refitting the silencer).
Refitting the silencer
PRE-FITTING THE SILENCER
Pre-fit the three clips (9) on silencer (5), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Insert clamp (4) on silencer (5), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit silencer (5) on the pre-silencer (6) and start screw (1).
From the opposite side, fit washer (3) on the thread of screw (1) and then screw nut (2).
Tighten clamp (4) to a torque of 10.5 Nm ± 10%, aiming it as shown in the figure.
REFITTING THE HEAT GUARD
Position heat protection (8) on silencer (5) and start the three screws (7).
Holding down the high rear part of the heat protection (8), at the point indicated by the arrow, to move it as far as possible from the
upper exhaust pipe of the silencer (5), tighten the three screws (7) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%, following the sequence shown in the
figure.
CORRECT tightening creates space between the heat protection (8) and the upper exhaust pipe of the silencer (5) as shown in the
figure.
WRONG tightening results in no space between the heat protection (8) and the upper exhaust pipe of the silencer (5) as shown in the
figure.
Canister filter system
The canister filter is a system that collects the fuel vapours released by the fuel tank. This filter is positioned along the tank breather tube
and must keep the fuel vapours when the vehicle is not moving.
To maintain the efficiency of the active carbons, the system is active while the engine is ON. The vacuum generated in the intake
manifolds makes fresh air flow through the canister filter and clean it.
The vapours generated while riding are conveyed to the intake system. To prevent the mixture from getting too rich, the pipe has a purge
valve that is opened and closed according to the riding conditions.
PARKED BIKE AND CLOSED PURGE VALVE
In this condition the vapours released by the tank by means of pipe (1) reach the canister filter (2).
The Purge valve (3) remains closed.
Filtered air flows out of pipe (4).
MOVING BIKE AND OPEN PURGE VALVE
In this condition air flows in pipe (1) to ventilate the tank.

The Purge valve (3) is open and so the fuel vapours coming from the canister (2) are sucked by vertical (5) and horizontal (6) head
intake manifolds.
Fresh air from outside enters from pipe (4).
MOVING BIKE AND CLOSED PURGE VALVE
In this condition air flows in pipe (1) to ventilate the tank.

The Purge valve (3) is closed and so there is no vapour passage through the vertical (5) and horizontal (6) head intake manifolds.
Fresh air from outside enters from pipe (4).
Removing the canister filter
Remove the purge valve (3) by pulling the rubber support (4) upwards from the tooth (B) in the support (5).
Remove the button tie (E) from the tooth (B), releasing the purge valve tube/Tee coupling (7).
Slide out the two rubber blocks (C) of the filter canister vibration damper (6) from the holes in the support (5).
Remove the button ties (F) and (G) by releasing the canister filter breather hose (10).
Open the rubber tie (D) on the side of the canister filter vibration damper (6) that joins the canister assembly to the thermostat/cylinder
head coupling.
Slide out the canister assembly towards the outside of the motorbike.
Remove the clamps (H) and slide off the two hoses (11) and (12) from the vertical and horizontal intake manifold unions.
Remove the canister filter assembly (13) together with the purge valve (3) and the hoses.
Refitting the Canister filter
PRE-ASSEMBLING THE CANISTER FILTER
Fit the rubber mount (4) on purge valve (3), aiming it so that timing tooth (J) engages into mount recess.
Connect hoses (11) and (12) on Tee coupling (14) and fasten them using clamps (15).
Connect purge valve hose/Tee coupling (7) to Tee coupling (14) and fasten it with clamp (16).
Connect purge valve hose/Tee coupling (7) to purge valve (3) and fasten it with clamp (17) from the side indicated in the figure.
Connect purge valve/canister hose (18) to purge valve (3) and fasten it using clamp (17).
Connect purge valve/canister hose (18) to the canister (13) and fasten it using clamp (16).
Connect tank breather pipe (19) to the canister (13) and fasten it using clamp (16).
Connect the canister filter breather hose (10) to the canister (13) and fasten it using clamp (20).
Fit the canister filter (13) on the vibration damper support (6), aiming it as shown in the figure.
REFITTING THE CANISTER FILTER
Reposition canister pipes on motorcycle, as shown in the figure.

Connect pipe (11) to the vertical head intake manifold union, and secure it in place using tie (H).
Connect pipe (12) to the horizontal head intake manifold union, and secure it in place using tie (H).
Reposition the canister assembly on the motorcycle.
Use the rubber tie (D) on the lower side of the canister filter vibration damper (6) to fix the canister assembly to the thermostat/cylinder
head coupling.
Reposition the canister filter breather hose (10) as shown in the figure.
Refit the button tie (F) in the position shown and secure the canister filter breather hose (10) to the expansion reservoir drain pipe.
Refit the button tie (G) in the position shown and secure the canister filter breather hose (10) to the expansion reservoir drain pipe, the
fuel tank drain pipe and the horizontal oxygen sensor cable connector.
Position canister breather hose (19) between the frame and the rear side of the airbox, as shown in the figure.
Refit the generator wiring cover (9), positioning the Quick-shift wiring branch (K), the side stand cable (L) and the starter motor/remote
control switch cable (M) inside it.
Secure the wiring by inserting the airbox drain hose nozzle (N) into the generator wiring cover (9).
Fit the two rubber blocks (C) of the filter canister vibration damper (6) in the holes in the support (5).
Using the button tie (E), secure the purge valve/Tee coupling (7) to the tooth (B).
Refit the purge valve (3) by fitting the rubber support (4) into the tooth (B) of the support (5).
Connect connector (A) to purge valve (3).


Removing the engine
In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle.
The removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual.
The list below indicates the components to be removed in a logical order.
This section describes only the operations to be carried out after having removed all the parts indicated in the list.
Vice front wheel and duly support vehicle front end.

Lock vehicle rear end.
Removing the seats

Remove the battery retaining bracket (1) by removing screws (2).

Undo the fixing screws (3) and remove the negative cable (4), the ABS positive cable (5) and the positive cable (6) from their terminals.
Slide out the battery (7) together with the battery mount (8).
Removing the ignition switch cover
Remove the two screws (1) retaining the ignition switch cover (2).
Removing the front turn indicators
Working on either sides of the vehicle, remove screws (1) that retain the LH (2) and RH (3) turn indicators.
Slide the turn indicator outwards and disconnect the connector (A). Repeat the operation on both turn indicators.
Removing the fuel tank
Remove the screws (1) securing the RH tank panel (2) and the LH tank panel (3).
Working on the right side, remove the screws (4) securing the right tank panel (2).
Taking care not to apply excessive force, pull the right tank panel (2) towards the front of the vehicle.
During this operation, unhook the small teeth (A) from their seats (B) and the five hooks (C) from their recesses (D).
Repeat the operations to remove the left tank panel (3).
Working on both sides of the fuel tank (5), remove the fixing screws (6).
Remove the front fuel tank fixing screws (7), recovering the washers (8).
Remove the fixing screws (9) of the canister cover (10).
Slide out the tank drain hose (11) to facilitate removal of the fuel tank from the vehicle.
Lift the fuel tank (5) from the rear side and disconnect the quick-release coupling (12) and the pump connector (13).
Disconnect the tank ground connector (K).
Lift the fuel tank (5) from the front, remove the clamps (14) and disconnect the drain hose (11) and the breather hose (15) from the fuel
tank.
Remove the fuel tank (5).
Removing the headlight and the front wiring
Disconnect all electric connectors by referring to chapter “Branch 11”.
Remove the LH (8) and RH (9) plugs by removing screws (10).

Remove the electric connector pad (11) fixed on the U-bolt (12).
Disconnect the immobilizer antenna connector (D) and ignition switch wiring (E)
Removing the airbox

Disconnect the voltage regulator (4) by disconnecting the two connectors (C).
Disconnect the air temperature sensor (5) and IMU (6) by disconnecting the connectors (D) and (E).
Disconnect the injector wiring connector (F) and the potentiometer wiring connector (G).
Disconnect the connector (H) of the throttle.
Disconnect the connector (I) of the horn.

Remove the airbox cable guide (7) by removing the screws (8).
Disconnect the connector (L) of the electric fan located behind the frame.
Disconnect the connector (M) of the horizontal map sensor and the connector (N) of the vertical map sensor.
Loosen the screws (9) and remove the connector support (10) of the injector wiring and of the potentiometer wiring.
Slide out clamp (11) and remove the secondary air system hose (12) from the vertical head.
Repeat the operation on the horizontal head, disengaging clamp (13) and removing the secondary air hose (14).
Working on the vertical cylinder, loosen clamp (15) that retains the throttle body to air box (16).
Remove the screws (17) securing the generator wiring cover (18) and release the airbox drain hose (19) by pulling it from the vehicle as
Remove the horn (20) together with its bracket by removing the fixing screw (21).
Working on the horizontal cylinder, loosen clamp (22) that retains the throttle body to the airbox (16).
Open clamp (23) and pull the blow-by pipe (24) from the airbox (16)
Remove the airbox (16) from the frame.

Removing the radiator
Loosen clamp (3) and disconnect the water hose (4) from the water radiator (2) union.
Working on the right side of the motorcycle, loosen clamp (5) and disconnect the water hose (6) from the water radiator union (2).
Loosen clamp (7) and disconnect the water radiator/expansion reservoir (8) hose from the water radiator (2).
Loosen clamp (9) and disconnect the breather hose (10) with T-shaped union from the water radiator (2).
Working on either sides of the motorcycle, loosen screws (11) that fix the water radiator (2).
Remove the water radiator (2) from the motorcycle by releasing the water radiator/expansion reservoir hose (8) and the breather hose
(10) with “T”-shaped union from their respective retaining teeth (C) and (D).
Removing the cooling system hoses
Remove the engine head left guard (1) by removing the screws (2) and releasing the pin (A) from the rubber block (B) on the vertical
head wiring support (3).
Disconnect the gear sensor connector (D).
Loosen the clamp (E) and remove the breather pipe (6) from the union (5).
Disconnect the connector of the ABS control unit (F).

Removing the canister filter system
Remove the clamps (B) and the two pipes (2) and (3) from the vertical and horizontal cylinder manifolds.
Slide the purge valve (1) together with the valve support (4) upwards from the tooth (C) in the support (5).
Slide out the two rubber blocks (D) of the filter canister vibration damper (6) from the holes in the support (5).
Open the rubber tie (E) on the canister filter vibration damper (6) that joins the canister assembly to the thermostat/cylinder head
coupling.
Remove the canister filter assembly (7) together with the purge valve (1) and the pipes by pulling it upwards.
Removing the water expansion reservoir
Remove the screws (1) and the water expansion reservoir (2).
Removing the blow-by pipe
Loosen the screws (1) and the special screws (6) that retain the vertical belt cover (2).
Separate the rear brake calliper/ABS control unit hose (3) and the rear brake master cylinder/ABS control unit hose (4) from the blow-by
pipe (5).
Loosen clamp (A) and remove the blow-by pipe (5).
Removing the glove compartment
Remove the screws (1) and (2) and lift the glove compartment (3).
Remove the glove compartment (3)
Removing the rear subframe
Disconnect rear speed sensor (A) and rear stop light (B) by disconnecting the connectors.
Disconnect the vertical oxygen sensor (D) by disconnecting the connector. To check the wiring position, refer to chapter “Branch 5”.
Working on both sides of the vehicle, loosen the two special screws (1).
Duly support the rear subframe (4). Working on the RH side, loosen the fixing pin (2) and collect nut (3) on the LH side.
Remove the rear subframe (4) together with the electrical wiring.
Removing the silencer
Working on the RH side of the motorcycle, undo screw (1) that retains the silencer to the RH footpeg holder plate, while holding nut (2)
Loosen the clamp (4) and remove the silencer (5) from the pre-silencer (6), pulling it towards the rear of the motorbike.
Removing the front sprocket
Undo the screws (2), and remove the sprocket cover (1).
Slacken the chain (Adjusting the chain tension).
Remove clutch slave piston (9) by loosening screws (10).

Engage the first gear and loosen nut (3).
Remove nut (3) and lock washer (4) on sprocket.
Remove the front sprocket (5) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Removing the RH footpeg holder plate
Working on the RH side of the motorcycle, undo screw (1) that retains the RH footpeg holder plate to the silencer, while holding nut (2)
Loosen rear brake fluid reservoir (5) retaining screw (4).
Loosen screws (6) and remove rear brake master cylinder (7) by sliding it out of the brake control rod (B) and from the relevant support
(8).
Apply commercial pliers (C) on hose (9) as shown in the figure.

Loosen screws (12) and remove the RH footpeg holder plate (13).
Removing the LH footpeg holder plate
Working on the left side of the motorcycle, disconnect connector (E) of the Quick Shift. To check the wiring position, refer to chapter
“Branch 1”.
Remove the screw (1) and release the gear shift con-rod (D) from the gearbox selector shaft.
Undo screw (14) securing the con-rod to the silencer.
Undo the “short” screw (17), the “long” screw (18) and remove the LH footpeg holder plate (19) by recovering the washers (20).
Removing the side stand
Disconnect the side stand sensor connector referring to chapter “Branch 1”.
Loosen the retaining screw (1) and remove stand sensor (2).
By loosening the screw (4), remove the side stand plate (3) together with the side stand assembly (5).
Removing the rear mudguard
Remove the chain splash guard (1) by loosening the screws (2).
Remove the screw (3) located under the rear mudguard (4).
Loosen the screw (5) and remove rear mudguard (4).

Removing the shock absorber
Properly support the engine using the support part no. 88713.3220.
Loosen special screws (1) and (2) and remove the rear shock absorber (3).
Collect spacers with collar (4) and dust seals (5) located on either sides of the rear shock absorber (3).
Removing the exhaust system
Disconnect the vertical oxygen sensor connector (E) by releasing it from all its fixing points (Branch 5).
Remove the rear subframe (Removing the rear subframe).

Disconnect the horizontal oxygen sensor connector (A) by releasing it from all its fixing points (Branch 5).
Loosen the nuts (3) and remove the horizontal exhaust manifold (4), collecting gaskets (5).
Remove pre-silencer (6).
Working on the LH side of the motorcycle, loosen vertical heat protection (9) retaining screws (7).
Working on the RH side of the motorcycle, loosen screw (7) with washer (8) and remove the vertical heat protection (9) from the vertical
exhaust manifold (10).
Loosen the nuts (11) and remove the vertical exhaust manifold (10), collecting gaskets (12).
Loosen screws (13) and (14) and remove the bracket (15) from the engine.
Removing the rear brake calliper
Loosen screw (1) and remove the rear speed sensor (2) by collecting the shims (3).
Loosen the two screws (4) fixing the rear brake calliper (5) to the calliper holder plate.
Remove the rear brake calliper (5).
Undo the screw (6) and remove the hose cover (A).
Release the rear brake calliper/ABS control unit hoses (7) and the rear speed sensor (2).
Removing the ABS control unit
Remove the clamp (A) securing the ABS system hoses to the frame.
Loosen screws (1) and (4) securing the ABS control unit support and expansion reservoir (2).
Slide out the ABS control unit and expansion reservoir support assembly (2) together with the ABS control unit (3).
It is not necessary to remove the hoses from the ABS control unit in order to disassemble and reassemble the engine.
Removing the swinging arm
Working on both sides of the rear swinging arm (1), remove the snap rings (A) from the swingarm shaft (2).
Loosen the swinging arm retaining clamp (3) by holding nut (4) on the opposite side of the swinging arm.
Slide out the swingarm shaft (2) by recovering the shims (B).
Remove the rear swinging arm (1) attached to the rear wheel.
Removing the frame from the engine
Remove the screws (1) securing the horizontal (2) and vertical (3) map sensor to the frame.
Working on both sides of the vehicle, loosen the special screws (4)
Lock the front brake lever and hold it with a rubber band.
Lift the front part of the vehicle attached to the frame.
Remove the engine from the vehicle.
Refitting the engine
Place the engine in the frame.

Apply the specified product to the special screws (4).
Apply the indicated product on the screws (1) securing the horizontal (2) and vertical (3) map sensor to the frame.
Refitting the rear swinging arm
Use grease to lubricate the bearings on the crankcase.

Position the rear swinging arm (1) attached to the rear wheel close to the engine.
Apply the indicated product to swingarm shaft (2).
Insert the swingarm shaft (2) by placing the shims (B).
Fit snap ring (A) and drive pin (2) fully home inside swinging arm.
Insert the other snap ring (A) from the opposite side.
Apply the indicated product to the thread of the swinging arm retainer clamp (3).
Insert the swinging arm retainer clamp (3) fully home into its seat on the swinging arm, orienting it as shown in the figure.
Tighten the swinging arm retainer, while holding nut (4) on the opposite side, to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5%.
Refitting the vertical exhaust manifold
Position the bracket (15) on the engine and start the screw (13) and the screw (14).
Fit the gaskets (12) on the stud bolts of the vertical head, orientating them as shown in the figure.
Place the vertical exhaust manifold (10) on the stud bolts and secure it by tightening the nuts (11).
Move the vertical exhaust manifold (10) fully home and tighten the nuts (11) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Position the vertical heat protection (9) on the vertical exhaust manifold (10) as shown in the figure and start the screw (7).
Start screws (7) on the vertical heat protection (9).
Refitting the rear shock absorber
Insert dust seals (5) on spacers with collar (4), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit spacers with collar (4) with dust seals (5) on either sides of the rear shock absorber (3), by inserting them inside the relevant seats
and driving them fully home.
Apply the indicated product to the thread and underhead of the two special screws (2).
Refit the rear shock absorber (3), aiming it as shown in the figure, and start the two special screws (2).
Tighten the special screws (2) to a torque of 42 Nm ± 5%.
Remove the engine support part no. 88713.3220.
Refitting the ABS control unit
Reposition the ABS control unit and expansion reservoir support assembly (2) together with the ABS control unit (3).
Start the screws (4) securing the ABS control unit support and expansion reservoir (2) to the manifold. Tighten the screws (4) to a torque
of 8 Nm ± 10%.
Start the screws (1) securing the ABS control unit support and expansion reservoir (2) to the crankcase. Tighten the screws (1) to a
torque of 1 Nm ± 10%.
Reposition the ABS hoses on the frame and secure them using the clamp (A).
Refitting the rear brake calliper
Position the rear brake calliper / ABS control unit hoses (7) and rear speed sensor (2) and secure them to the swinging arm using the
hose grommet (A).
Refit the rear brake calliper (5) by starting the screws (4) fixing the rear brake calliper (5) to the calliper holder plate.
Refitting the front sprocket and clutch slave cylinder unit
Check that the spacer (6) is installed on the gearbox secondary shaft.
Refit the ring (8).
Grease the O-ring (7), and install it on the front sprocket spacer (6).
Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of the bearing.
Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the front sprocket (5) on the gearbox secondary shaft, orienting it as shown and pushing it over the groove.
Fit lock washer (4).
After having applied the indicated product, tighten the nut (3) to a torque of 186 Nm ± 5%.
Bend the washer (4) over the nut.
Tension the chain (Adjustment of chain tension).
Apply the specified product to seal (11).

Fit seal (11) onto clutch slave cylinder unit (9).
Refit clutch slave cylinder (9) and start screws (10).

Tighten screws (10) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, by in the 1 - 2 - 3 - 1 sequence.
Note
To bring the clutch slave cylinder internal surface near the casing cover as evenly as possible, screw and tighten the retaining screws
alternatively in steps.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (2).
Fit the sprocket cover (1) and tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10 %.
Refitting the canister filter system
Reposition canister pipes on motorcycle, as shown in the figure.

Connect pipe (11) to the vertical head intake manifold union, and secure it in place using tie (H).
Connect pipe (12) to the horizontal head intake manifold union, and secure it in place using tie (H).
Reposition the canister assembly on the motorcycle.
Use the rubber tie (D) on the lower side of the canister filter vibration damper (6) to fix the canister assembly to the thermostat/cylinder
head coupling.
Reposition the canister filter breather hose (10) as shown in the figure.
Refit the button tie (F) in the position shown and secure the canister filter breather hose (10) to the expansion reservoir drain pipe.
Refit the button tie (G) in the position shown and secure the canister filter breather hose (10) to the expansion reservoir drain pipe, the
fuel tank drain pipe and the horizontal oxygen sensor cable connector.
Position canister breather hose (19) between the frame and the rear side of the airbox, as shown in the figure.
Refit the generator wiring cover (9), positioning the Quick-shift wiring branch (K), the side stand cable (L) and the starter motor/remote
control switch cable (M) inside it.
Secure the wiring by inserting the airbox drain hose nozzle (N) into the generator wiring cover (9).
Fit the two rubber blocks (C) of the filter canister vibration damper (6) in the holes in the support (5).
Using the button tie (E), secure the purge valve/Tee coupling (7) to the tooth (B).
Refit the purge valve (3) by fitting the rubber support (4) into the tooth (B) of the support (5).
Connect connector (A) to purge valve (3).

Refitting the water expansion reservoir
Position the water expansion reservoir (2) and tighten screws (1) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
Refitting the blow-by hose
Reposition the blow-by hose (5) on the blow-by valve on the crankcase.
Tighten clip (A) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%.
Insert the rear brake calliper/ABS control unit hose (3) and the rear brake master cylinder/ABS control unit hose (4) in the blow-by hose
(5).
Start and tighten screws (1) and (6) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Refitting the rear subframe
Apply the indicated product to thread and underhead of pin (2).

Refit the rear subframe (4) together with the electrical wiring on the vehicle.
Working on the right side, insert the pin (2) and secure it using the nut (3) on the left side.
Apply the indicated product to special screws (1) thread and underhead.
Reconnect the vertical oxygen sensor (D) by reconnecting the connector. To check the wiring position, refer to chapter “Branch 5”.
Reconnect rear speed sensor (A) and rear stop light (B).
For the correct positioning of the electrical wiring and its fixing points by means of clamps or other, refer to the chapter “Routing of wiring
on frame”.
Refitting the cooling system hoses
Reconnect the connector of the ABS control unit (F).

Position thermostatic valve/vertical cylinder hose (3) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (A) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect breather hose (7) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (C) to a torque of 3 Nm ±10%.
Position thermostatic valve/vertical cylinder hose (4) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (C) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect breather hose (6) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (E) to a torque of 3 Nm ±10%.
Reconnect the gear sensor connector (D).
Refit the side stand plate (3) together with the side stand assembly (5).
Refit the side stand sensor (2) and fix it by tightening screw (1) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Reconnect the side stand sensor connector referring to chapter “Branch 1”.
Refitting the LH footpeg holder plate
Position the washers (20) on the LH footpeg holder plate (19) and, on the opposite side, start the “short” screw (17), the “long” screw
(18), as shown in the figure.
Working on the motorcycle LH side, position the LH footpeg holder plate (19) on the motorcycle and start the screws (17) and (18).
Start the special screw (15) on the LH footpeg holder plate (19).
Position the con-rod on the silencer and start screw (14).
Refit the gear shift con-rod (D) on the gear selector shaft. Tighten the screw (21) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the Quick shift connector (E), by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 1).
Refitting the pre-silencer and exhaust manifolds
Refit the pre-silencer (6) fully against the vertical exhaust manifold.
Fit the gaskets (5) on the stud bolts of the horizontal head, orientating them as shown in the figure.
Fit the horizontal exhaust manifold (4) by inserting it on pre-silencer (6) and on the horizontal head stud bolts and fix it by starting nuts
(3).
Move the horizontal exhaust manifold (4) fully home and tighten the nuts (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the horizontal oxygen sensor connector (A) by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 5).
Refitting the RH footpeg holder plate
Working on the motorcycle RH side, position the RH footpeg holder plate (13) on the motorcycle and start the screws (12) without
tightening them.
Start the special screw (10) on the RH footpeg holder plate (13).
Remove the commercial pliers (C) from hose (9).

Refit the rear brake master cylinder (7) on the relevant support (8) and insert it on the brake control rod (B) and start screws (6).
Position the rear brake fluid reservoir (5) on the support (8) and start screw (4).
Start screw (1) that retains the RH footpeg holder plate to the silencer, from the opposite side, fit washer (3) on the thread of screw (1)
and then screw nut (2).
Connect the rear stop sensor connector (A) and position it by restoring all its fixing points (Branch 9).
Refitting the rear mudguard
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the screws (2), (3) and (5). A maximum of three removal/refitting operations is
recommended.
Position the rear mudguard (4) and tighten screw (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Fix the rear mudguard (4) on the lower side by tightening screw (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the chain splash guard (1) and fix it by tightening screws (2) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Refitting the silencer
Fit silencer (5) on the pre-silencer (6) and start screw (1).
From the opposite side, fit washer (3) on the thread of screw (1) and then screw nut (2).
Tighten clamp (4) to a torque of 10.5 Nm ± 10%, aiming it as shown in the figure.
Refitting the glove compartment
Connect connector (A) to the USB socket.
Position the glove compartment (3) and tighten the screws (1) and (2) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Refitting the water radiator
Start the special screw (14) on the horizontal head.

Fit vibration damper (22) on con-rod (1).

Insert con-rod (1) on special screw (14), aiming it as shown in the figure and start screw (12).
Refit the water radiator (2) on the motorcycle by fitting the water radiator/expansion reservoir hose (8) and the breather hose (10) with
“T”-shaped union on their respective retaining teeth (C) and (D).
Working on either sides of the motorcycle, start screws (11) that fix the water radiator (2).
Working on the right side of the motorcycle, connect the water pipe (6) to the water radiator (2) union by fastening it with clamp (5).
Tighten clip (5) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the water radiator/expansion reservoir hose (8) to the water radiator (2) and fasten it with the clamp (7).
Connect the breather pipe with “T”-shaped union (10) to the water radiator (2) and fasten it with the clamp (9).
Working on the left side of the motorcycle, connect the water pipe (4) to the water radiator (2) union by fastening it with clamp (3).
Connect the fan connector (B) and reposition the wiring behind the frame (Branch 2).
Refitting the airbox
Insert the airbox (16) in the frame.
Insert the blow-by hose (24) in the airbox (16) and secure it with a clip (23).
Working on the horizontal cylinder, secure the throttle body to the airbox (16).
Tighten clip (22) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
recommended.
Secure the horn (20) with its bracket by tightening the fixing screw (21) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%.
Reposition the generator wiring cover (18) and the drain pipe (19).
Working on the vertical cylinder, check that the throttle body is correctly inserted in the airbox (16).
Tighten the clamp (15) fixing the throttle body to the airbox (16) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ± 10%.
Insert the secondary air pipe (12) into the vertical head union.
Tighten clip (11).
Repeat the operation on the horizontal head, inserting the secondary air pipe (14) and securing it with the clamp (13).
Position the connector support (10) and tighten screws (9) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Connect the connector (M) of the horizontal map sensor and the connector (N) of the vertical map sensor.
Connect the connector (L) of the electric fan located behind the frame.
Reposition the airbox cable guide (7) fixing it by starting the screws (8).
Connect the connector (I) of the horn.
Connect the connector (H) of the throttle.

Connect the injector wiring connector (F) and the potentiometer wiring connector (G).
Connect the air temperature sensor (5) and IMU (6) by connecting the connectors (D) and (E).
Connect the voltage regulator (4) by connecting the two connectors (C).
Insert the ECU (1) together with its rubber support, on the airbox.
Start screws (2) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Reconnect the ECU (1) by connecting connectors (B).
Position the airbox soundproofing cover (A).
Connect the immobilizer antenna connector (D) and ignition switch wiring (E)
Refit the electric connector pad (11) and fix it on the U-bolt (12).
Refit the LH (8) and RH (9) plugs by starting screws (10).
Insert the electric connector pad (7).

Connect all electric connectors by referring to chapter “Branch 11”.
Connect the connector (B) of the headlight on its left side and the connector (C) of the air temperature sensor on the right side of the
headlight.
recommended.
Refit the instrument panel cover (1) by starting the fixing screws (2) and placing the relevant spacers with collar (3).
Refitting the fuel tank
Reposition the tank drain pipe (15) in the upper part between the frame and the airbox, as shown in the figure.
Refit the fuel tank (8).
Working on the front of the fuel tank (8); connect the drain pipe (15) and the breather pipe (19) to the fuel tank (8).
Using the clamps (18) secure the drain pipe (15) and the breather pipe (19).
Working on the rear of the fuel tank (8), connect the quick connector (16) and the fuel pump connector (17).
Connect the fuel tank ground connector (K).
Reposition the tank drain pipe (15), as shown in the figure.
Refit the button tie (F), in the position shown in the figure and secure the tank drain pipe (15) to the side stand cable connector.
Refit the button tie (G) in the position shown and secure the tank drain pipe (15) to the expansion reservoir drain pipe, the canister
breather pipe and the horizontal oxygen sensor cable connector.

Start the screws (10) that fasten the front side of the fuel tank.

Working on both sides of the fuel tank (8), start the screws (9).
Pre-assembling the fuel tank panels
Apply the adhesive hose grommet (34) to the designated surface of the right fuel tank panel (5), as shown in the figure.
Apply uniform pressure to the outer surface of the hose grommet (34).
Repeat the operation for the left tank panel.
Refitting the fuel tank panels
Couple the right tank panel (5) to the right tank cover (22) by inserting the right indicator wiring branch (S) inside the adhesive hose
grommet (34) and pull the connector (T) out of the opening (V).
Move the right tank panel (5) towards the rear, inserting the small teeth (B) into their seats (C) and the five hooks (D) into their recesses
(E).
Start the screw (6) for fixing the lower right tank panel (5).
Tighten the screws (4) on the right tank panel (5).
Repeat the operations to refit the left tank panel (7).
Refitting the front turn indicators
Connect connector (A) of the LH turn indicator (2).

Fit the left turn indicator (2) to the left tank panel (7) by inserting the tooth (J) into the recess (L).
Repeat the operation to refit the RH turn indicator.
Working on either sides of the motorcycle, start screws (3) to fix the LH (2) and RH (3) turn indicators.
Refitting the ignition switch cover
Position the ignition switch cover (2).

Start the two screws (1) retaining the ignition switch cover (2).
Insert battery (7) inside rubber mount (8), then position it inside the indicated compartment under passenger seat, driving it fully home.
Connect the positive cable (6) and the ABS positive cable (5) to the battery positive terminal, then connect the negative cable (4) to the
negative terminal, as shown in the figure.
Position battery mounting bracket (1) over the battery. Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 2 Nm ± 10%.
Refitting the seats
Position seat plate (6) on seat (5) front side and start the screws (7).
Removing the oil pump
Empty the lubrication system (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the clutch cover (Removing the clutch cover).
Remove the hub, clutch plate pack and clutch housing unit (B) (Removing the clutch).
Remove the primary drive gear (C) (Removing the primary drive gear).
Remove the snap ring (1) and shim (2).

Slide out oil pump gear (3) and collect rotation pin (4).
Loosen the screws (5a) and screw (5b), then remove the oil pump cover assembly (6).
Remove oil pump outer rotor lobe (7) from crankcase.
Refitting the oil pump
Apply the indicated product on the seat of the oil pump on clutch side crankcase.
Apply the indicated product on the inner and outer surfaces (7) of oil pump outer rotor lobe and insert it inside the seat on clutch side
crankcase with the reference (E) facing inside the crankcase.
Check that the two reference pins (8) are present on crankcase.
Apply the indicated product to the oil pump inner rotor lobe (9).
Fit the assembled oil pump cover assembly (6) (Reassembling the oil pump) and centre it following the mandatory positions given by:
- crankshaft seat (D) on crankcase;

- inner rotor lobe (9) with outer rotor lobe;
- reference pins (8).
Start the fastening screws (5a) and (5b) of oil pump cover assembly.
Tighten the screws (5a) and (5b) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), respecting the indicated sequence.
Insert rotation pin (4) inside pump shaft.

Fit gear (3) by inserting pin (4) inside its seat (E).
Fit shim (2) and snap ring (1) inside shaft.
Refit the primary drive gear (C) (Refitting the primary drive gear and checking meshing backlash).
Refit the clutch housing, clutch plate pack and hub unit (B) (Refitting the clutch).
Refit the clutch cover (A) (Refitting the clutch cover).

Restore lubrication system oil level (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Disassembling the oil pump
Remove the oil pump (Removing the oil pump).
Remove circlip (1) and collect shim (2).

From the opposite side pull out the pump shaft (4), collect the inner rotor (3) and pull out the roller (5), if required.
Undo the plug (6), collect the spring (7) and the by-pass valve (8).
Reassembling the oil pump
Insert roller (5) inside the hole made on pin (4).

Insert inner rotor (3) on pin (4), driving it fully home.
Insert pin (4) with the just fitted inner rotor (3) in the pump cover.
Insert shim (2) on pin (4) and lock pin by inserting snap ring (4).
Check that the pin (4) moves freely.
Apply the recommended product to the plug thread (6).
Insert by-pass valve (8), spring (7) and start plug (6).
Tighten plug (6) to a torque of 17 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 19 Nm).
Refit the oil pump (Refitting the oil pump).

Removing the water tank
Warning
This operation must be performed with cold engine. Failure to observe the above recommendation may lead to coolant or hot vapour
leakage with possible consequent severe burns.

Remove the airbox and the throttle body (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Drain the coolant from the oil cooler (Changing the coolant).
Loosen screws (1) and slide out cover (2).
Drain the coolant (Changing the coolant).
Remove the screws (3) and the water expansion reservoir (4).
Working on vehicle RH side, remove the tie (5) and disconnect the water radiator overflow hose (6) from water radiator.
Slide out the water expansion reservoir (4) from the vehicle together with the hoses.
Refitting the water tank
Place water expansion reservoir (4) on vehicle.
Fit the water radiator overflow hose (6) as shown in the figures.
Fit the expansion reservoir breather hose (7) as shown in the figures.
Position the water expansion reservoir (2) and tighten screws (1) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10%.
Refill the coolant circuit (Changing the coolant).
Removing the radiator
Warning
This operation must be performed with cold engine. Attempting to change the coolant with the engine hot could lead to burns from hot
coolant or scalding steam.
Remove the fuel tank panels (Removing the fuel tank).

Loosen clamp (3) and disconnect the water hose (4) from the water radiator (2) union.
Working on the right side of the motorcycle, loosen clamp (5) and disconnect the water hose (6) from the water radiator union (2).
Loosen clamp (7) and disconnect the water radiator/expansion reservoir (8) hose from the water radiator (2).
Loosen clamp (9) and disconnect the breather hose (10) with T-shaped union from the water radiator (2).
Working on either sides of the motorcycle, loosen screws (11) that fix the water radiator (2).
Remove the water radiator (2) from the motorcycle by releasing the water radiator/expansion reservoir hose (8) and the breather hose
(10) with “T”-shaped union from their respective retaining teeth (C) and (D).
Loosen screw (12) with washer (13) and remove the con-rod (1) from the special screw (14).
Undo the special screw (14) from the horizontal head.
Replacing the electric fan
REMOVING THE ELECTRIC FAN
Remove the water radiator (Removing the water radiator).
Loosen screws (1) and remove the deflector (2) from the electric fan (3).
Loosen the screws (4) and remove the electric fan (3) from the water radiator (5).
PRE-FITTING THE ELECTRIC FAN

Fit the rubber blocks (6) in their respective recesses in the electric fan (3) bringing them fully home and positioning them as shown in the
figure.
Make sure that the electric fan cable (A) is inserted in the retaining tab (B).
Fit the cable (A) on the electric fan (3) and lock it using the self-locking ties (7) in the positions shown in the figure.
Make sure that the tie locking devices (7) are aimed correctly as shown in the figure; they cannot extend over the outer contour of the
electric fan support and cannot go inside the electric fan support to avoid touching the blades.
REFITTING THE ELECTRIC FAN
Position the electric fan (3) on the water radiator (5), aiming it as shown in the figure and start the screws (4).
Position the deflector (2) on the electric fan (3) and start the screws (1).
Refit the water radiator (Refitting the water radiator).

Refitting the water radiator
WATER RADIATOR PRE-ASSEMBLY
Fit vibration dampers (15) in the indicated positions of water radiator (2).
Insert the spacer with short collar (16) in the “left” vibration damper (15) and the spacer with long collar (17) in the “right” vibration
damper (15), orientating them as shown in the figure.
Position the deflector (18) on the fan (E) and start the screws (19).
Fit the cover (21) on the water radiator (2) and start the screw (20).
REFITTING THE WATER RADIATOR
Start the special screw (14) on the horizontal head.

Fit vibration damper (22) on con-rod (1).

Insert con-rod (1) on special screw (14), aiming it as shown in the figure and start screw (12).
Refit the water radiator (2) on the motorcycle by fitting the water radiator/expansion reservoir hose (8) and the breather hose (10) with
“T”-shaped union on their respective retaining teeth (C) and (D).
Working on either sides of the motorcycle, start screws (11) that fix the water radiator (2).
Working on the right side of the motorcycle, connect the water pipe (6) to the water radiator (2) union by fastening it with clamp (5).
Connect the water radiator/expansion reservoir hose (8) to the water radiator (2) and fasten it with the clamp (7).
Connect the breather pipe with “T”-shaped union (10) to the water radiator (2) and fasten it with the clamp (9).
Working on the left side of the motorcycle, connect the water pipe (4) to the water radiator (2) union by fastening it with clamp (3).
Connect the fan connector (B) and reposition the wiring behind the frame (Branch 2).
Refit the fuel tank panels (Refitting the fuel tank).
Removing the cooling system hoses and unions
Remove the canister filter (Removing the canister filter).

Important
Periodically check the connection unions for leaks. Hoses that are cracked, swollen, or hardened due to dry sleeves should be replaced.
The cooling system hose set consists of:
1 Horizontal head delivery hose;

2 Vertical head delivery hose;
3 Vertical head to thermostatic valve hose;
4 Horizontal head to thermostatic valve hose;
5 Water radiator to water pump hose;
6 Thermostatic valve;
7 Vertical head breather hose;
8 Horizontal head breather hose;
9 Thermostatic valve to radiator hose;
10 Breather union hose.
Loosen clamp (A) and disconnect the water radiator/water pump (5) hose from radiator.
Loosen clamps (A) and remove the delivery hoses (1) and (2) and the water radiator/water pump hose (5).
Loosen clamp (A) and disconnect thermostatic valve/radiator hoses (9).
Remove the click clamp (B) and disconnect breather union hose (10).
Loosen clamp (A) and disconnect vertical head/thermostatic valve hose (3) from the horizontal head.
Loosen clamp (A) and slide out horizontal head/thermostatic valve hose (4).
Now you can slide out the thermostatic valve with hoses (3), (4) and (9) still connected.
Should you wish to replace hoses without removing the thermostatic valve (6), proceed as follows.
Loosen clamps (A) and remove thermostatic valve/water radiator hose (9) and vertical head/thermostatic valve hose (3).
Loosen clamp (C) and disconnect breather hose (7).
Remove the click clamp (C) and disconnect breather hose (7).
If necessary, remove the two unions (11) by loosening retaining screws (12) and stud bolt (13).
Refitting the cooling system hoses and unions
Make sure that the relevant seal is inserted inside unions (11).
Position the two unions (11) on the relevant heads.
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on screws (12) and special screw (13). A maximum of three removal/refitting
operations is recommended.
Start and tighten screws (12) and special screw (13) to a torque of 6 Nm (Min.5 - Max.7).
Fit rubber protection (D) on thermostatic valve (6), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit coupling (9), coupling (4) and coupling (3) on thermostatic valve (6), aiming them so that notches (F) present on valve match the
recesses (G) present on couplings, as shown in the figure.
Insert clamps (A) on couplings (9), (4) and (3), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Position clamps (A) on the white pad prints present on hoses and aim them so that the retaining screw is on the white dot (E), as shown
in the figure.
Tighten clips (A) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
If hoses prove difficult to assemble, use the indicated product.
Fit hoses (7), (8) and (10) on the "T"-shaped union, in the positions shown in the figure.
Fit small click clamps (B) on hoses (7), (8) and (10).
Drive all clamps (B) in position and tighten them by respecting the orientation shown in the figure.
Insert the just assembled hoses inside frame.
Position thermostatic valve/vertical cylinder hose (3) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (A) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Connect breather hose (7) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (C) to a torque of 3 Nm ±10%.
Insert horizontal head/thermostatic valve hose (4) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (A) to a torque of 3 Nm ±10%.
Position thermostatic valve/radiator hose (9) and secure it in place by tightening clamp (A) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Position breather hose (10) and fasten it with click clamp (B).
Position water radiator/pump hose (5) and delivery hoses (1) and (2), and secure them in place by tightening clamps (A) to a torque of 3
Nm ± 10%.
Position water radiator/water pump hose (5), inside radiator and secure it in place by tightening clamp (A) to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the canister filter (Refitting the canister filter).

Removing the water pump

Remove the cooling system hoses from the water pump cover (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Note
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Loosen the indicated clamps and disconnect the hoses from water pump cover (3).
Loosen screws (1) with washers (2) and remove water pump cover (3) from the generator cover (4).
Collect bushes (5) from the generator cover (4).

Clean the pump housing from any coolant scale.
Check the bearing wear by turning the impeller shaft (6); in case of excessive clearance, it is necessary to replace them as follows.
Remove the generator cover by following the reference procedure (Removing the generator cover).
Working on the inside of generator cover, remove snap ring (7).

Working from the outside of generator cover, slide out the impeller (6) with its mechanical seal (9) and counter-washer (14).
Working from the inside of generator cover, loosen and remove screws (10) and washers (11).
Working on the outside of generator cover (4), use a suitable drift to press on the inner ring of end bearing (12) until it can be extracted
from the generator cover (4).
Remove shielded bearing (13) from generator cover (4) in the same way.
Remove internal spacer (15) from generator cover (4).
Check the condition of the mechanical seal components (9) and of the counter-washer (14): there should be no signs of deformation,
cracking, or excessive wear.
In case of damage, both components must be replaced.
Refitting the water pump
Note
Apply the indicated product inside the seat (C) of the bearings of generator cover (4).
Working on generator cover (4) internal side, insert the inner spacer (15) with the sharp edge (D) outwards.
Use a commercial drift and bring inner spacer (15) fully home on generator cover (4).
Refit shielded bearing (13), with shielded side (E) facing the cover, as shown in the figure.
Refit the bearing (12), driving it fully home on shielded bearing (13).
Apply the specified product to screws (10) thread.
Start screws (10) with washers (11) on the generator cover.
Tighten the screws (10) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm. - Max. 11 Nm).
Thoroughly clean the parts to be reused and the impeller shaft (6).
Apply the specified product to seal (A) of mechanical seal (9).
Install the mechanical seal (9) on impeller shaft (6), aiming it with seal (A) facing the impeller (6); pay utmost attention to ensure not to
damage seal (A) on edge (B).
Bring the mechanical gasket (9) fully home on impeller.
Apply the specified product to counter-washer (14).
Working from the outside of generator cover, refit the counter-washer (14) fully home on the generator cover.
The gasket (14) must be positioned so that the white side is facing upwards.
Clean the counter-washer (14) from the excess of lubricant.
Install the water pump impeller (6) driving it fully home on counter-washer (14).
With the suitable equipment, install the snap ring (7) in the relevant groove on the impeller shaft (6), as shown in the figure.
Turn the impeller (6) and make sure that it can rotate freely, without excessive resistance.
Refit the generator cover by following the reference procedure (Refitting the generator cover).
Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the water pump cover (3) and generator cover (4) (Cleaning and applying the silicone rubber
sealant on work surfaces).
Refit centring bushes (5) to the generator cover (4).

Apply an even and continuous bead (F) of sealing compound on the generator cover by respecting the shown path.
Warning
An excessive quantity of sealant may cause the water pump impeller to block.
Important
Fit water pump cover within 5 minutes from sealant application.
Important
All aluminium screws during refitting must be replaced with new ones.
Fit water pump cover (3) on the generator cover, centring it on the bushings.
Refit the water pump cover (3) fully home on the generator cover and start the screws (1) with washers (2).
Tighten the screws (1) to the torque specified below, following the sequence shown in the figure:
- First tightening: 3 ÷ 3.5 Nm.

- Final tightening: 90º.
- Torque check: 5 ÷ 10 Nm.
After tightening, remove any excessive sealing compound.
Refit water pipes to the pump cover (3).

Fasten water pipes by tightening the indicated clamps to a torque of 3 Nm ± 10%, aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fill the system with engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Fit the cooling system hoses on the water pump cover (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Checking and adjusting the valve clearance

Horizontal Head
Remove the side screw (9) securing the horizontal head.
Remove clamp (7) and disconnect the secondary air system hose.

Loosen the screws (12) and remove the head (13).
Loosen the two screws (B) and remove the timing inspection cover (C).
Fit the tool (D) part no. 88765.1635 in the holes of the generator cover to be able to turn the crankshaft so that the valve on which the
check is carried out is in rest position and the relevant piston at the top dead centre.
Important
Important
Reference Values
recommended.
Insert coil (11).
Vertical Head
Turn the crankshaft so that the valve on which the check is carried out is in rest position and the relevant piston at the top dead centre.
Slide off the wiring (A) so that the vertical head can be removed.
Remove clamp (14) and disconnect the secondary air system hose (15).
Loosen the screws (18) and the side screw (20).

Remove the head (19).
Important
Important
Reference Values
recommended.
Insert coil (17).
Remove tool (D) part no. 88765.1635.
Refit the timing inspection cover (C) with its gasket.

Start the screws (B) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 - Max. 5.5).
Fill the lubrication system (Changing the coolant)
Checking valve lift

Release the water radiator lower retainer and move it towards the front wheel (Removing the water radiator).
Remove the airbox, the throttle body, the blow by and the oil breather pipe (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Remove the water radiator lower retainer from the engine (Removing the water radiator).
Remove the secondary air system pipes (Removing the secondary air system).
Release the ABS tubes and wiring from the cable ring fixed on the vertical head (Routing wiring harnesses/hoses).
Disconnect spark plug coils (Replacing the spark plugs).
Note
Move the piston of the cylinder being checked to TDC upon combustion stage: in this condition, all valves are closed and the camshafts
come in rest position and, therefore, free to rotate; check the valve lift.
Position the tool (G) part no. 88765.1690 on the head: support (S) of tool no. 88765.1690 with the intake indication must be positioned
on the exhaust side whereas support (T) of tool no. 88765.1690 with the exhaust indication must be positioned on the intake side.
Seat the plate (E) and tighten the screws (F).
Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of suitable thickness, between
the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Lock dial gauge (V) into the seat support (T) and position probe (R) against the face of the closing shim.
Set the dial gauge to zero when the valve is fully closed.
Rotate the intake camshaft so as to allow the intake valves to lift fully.
Check on the dial gauge that the measured value corresponds to the prescribed one.
Repeat the same operation for the exhaust valves, using dial gauge (V) in support seat (S) and probe (U).
Specified values:
Timing diagram
Opening 4°±3° B.T.D.C.

Intake
Timing diagram with valve clearance of 1 mm (0.039 in)
Opening 58°±3° B.B.D.C.
Exhaust
Intake valve diameter 35.5 mm (1,398 in)
Exhaust valve diameter 28.8 mm (1,134 in)
Connect spark plug coils (Replacing the spark plugs).

Position the ABS tubes and wiring in the cable ring fixed on the vertical head (Routing wiring/hoses).
Position the secondary air system pipes (Refitting the secondary air system).
Refit the airbox, the throttle body, the blow by and the oil breather pipe (Refitting the airbox and throttle body).
Restore and tighten the water radiator lower retainer and move it towards the front wheel (Refitting the water radiator).
Checking the engine timing
Remove the cylinder head covers (Removing the camshafts).

Remove.
Remove the water radiator lower retainer from the engine (Removing the water radiator).
Set the engine to the condition described for the operation under "Checking and adjusting the valve clearance", indicated before. Install
tool no. 88713.2087 (A) in the spark plug bore to determine the piston TDC, the gauges (B) on tool no. 88765.1690 and the timing check
tool (degree wheel (C) no. 88765.1657 with graduated disk).
Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshafts are in rest position by fitting a feeler gauge, of suitable thickness, between
the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Check that in this condition the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge.
In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC with the valves fully closed as confirmed by the reading on gauge (A),
set the gauges (B) to zero.
Tension the belts according to the value specified in "Changing the timing belts".
Turn the degree wheel (C) counter clockwise until the gauge dial (B), on the exhaust side, shows a lift of 1 mm. Check that the value of
the angular displacement read on the degree wheel (C) is the specified one (Timing system/valves).
Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a lift of 1 mm on the intake side. Check the angular value on the degree wheel.
Continue to rotate until you obtain an intake valve lift of 1 mm on the gauge (B), during closure of the valve for the compression stroke.
Check the angular value with the specified one (Timing system/valves). Continue to rotate the degree wheel (C) counter clockwise until
you obtain a lift of 1 mm of the exhaust valve, when opening or closing the valve.
Check the angular displacement value against the specified value.
Repeat the procedure for the vertical cylinder.
A tolerance of ±3° is allowed in the values detected with the described procedure compared to the specified ones (Checking valve lift).
Remove the installed tools to check timing. Then tension the belts to the prescribed operation value.
In case of values different from the specified ones (Timing system/valves), loosen the fixing screws (D) of the timing belt rollers and
correct the value detected by turning the ring nut of the camshaft with the wrench supplied with tool (E) no. 88713.1806.
Then block the three screws (D) retaining the timing belt roller to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) and mark the new
position on the components.
Specified values:

status value

115)
80)
Timing diagram

Intake
Timing diagram with valve clearance of 1 mm (0,039 in)
Exhaust

Intake
Timing diagram with valve clearance of 5 mm (0,197 in)
Exhaust
Intake valve diameter 35.5 mm (1,398 in)
Exhaust valve diameter 28.8 mm (1,134 in)
Refit the components removed in the procedure.
Refit the cylinder head covers (Refitting the camshafts).

Removing the timing belt covers
Warning
When working with installed engine, wait for the components to cool down
Remove clamp (1) and disconnect the blow-by hose (2) from the airbox.
Loosen screws (3) and remove vertical belt cover (4).

Loosen screw (5) and remove the blow-by hose (2).
Loosen screws (6) and the special screw (7).

Remove the horizontal belt cover (8).
Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt
Remove the timing belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Insert tool (A) part no. 88765.1623 on the belt rollers to lock rotation.
Loosen the nut (1) and remove the washer (2) and the mobile tensioner (3) from the pin (4) on the cylinder head.
Remove the timing belt (5) from the piston-cylinder assy.
Important
If the belts are to be re-used, mark the direction of rotation with an arrow and also mark the piston-cylinder assy they belong to.
Repeat the procedure for the other piston-cylinder assy.

Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner
Note
The figures show an engine block removed from the frame.
Remove the external belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Remove the mobile tensioners and timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
FIXED TENSIONERS
Working on the vertical head, undo the nut (1), collect washer (7) and remove fixed tensioner (2).
Repeat the same procedure to remove the fixed tensioner from horizontal head.
HEAD PULLEYS
Insert tool (A) part no. 88713.1806 in the pulleys to lock their rotation and use the supplied bush to loosen the fixing ring nuts (3) of the
pulleys.
Important
Upon reassembly, always use new ring nuts.
Remove the ring nuts (3) and the pulleys (4) from the camshafts.
Repeat the same procedure to remove the pulleys from horizontal head.
Removing the tensioner pins
Note
Remove the timing belt external covers by following the reference procedure (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Remove the mobile tensioners and timing belts by following the reference procedure (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Use tool part no. 88713.1821 to remove tensioner pins (1) from both heads.
Disassembling the camshaft pulleys
Undo and remove the screws (1).

Slide off the washer (2).
Slide out pulley (3) from hub (4).
Removing the timing layshaft pulleys
Note
Using tool (A) part no. 88713.5644 block the rotation of the driving belt rollers on the crankcase.
Important
If this operation is carried out with the engine installed in the frame, block the driving belt rollers rotation using tool part no. 88713.2011
fitted on generator cover
Loosen the self-locking ring nut (10) using the socket supplied with the tool.
Remove the self-locking ring nut (10), the spacer (11), the outer pulley (12) and the key (13).
Remove the spacer (14) and the inner pulley (15).
Remove the inner spacer (16) and key (17) from the timing layshaft.
Remove the snap ring (18) located on the timing layshaft.
Refitting the timing layshaft pulley
Note
Insert snap ring (18) paying attention not to scratch the timing layshaft of pulleys.
Refit key (17) on the timing layshaft.

Fit the inner spacer (16) to timing layshaft, aiming it with groove (A) facing the inside of the engine.
Fit the inner pulley (15) and the washer (14).
Fit the outer pulley (12) and the spacer (11) on the timing layshaft.
Apply the indicated product on self-locking ring nut (10) thread, then screw it to timing layshaft.
Important
To prevent the ring nuts from loosening and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking ring nuts on all the timing
belt rollers.
Use tool part no. 88713.5644 to lock the rotation of the pulleys and tighten the self-locking ring nut (10) to 71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78
Nm) using the insert supplied with the wrench and a torque wrench.
Refit the mobile tensioners and timing belts (Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Refit the external timing belt covers (Refitting the timing belt external covers).
Refitting the tensioner pins
Note
Apply specified product to the bigger thread of tensioner pins (1).

Insert the tensioner pins (1) on the heads and start them with tool part no. 88713.1821.
Tighten tensioner pins (1) to a torque of 50 Nm (Min. 45 Nm – Max. 55 Nm).
Refit the mobile tensioners and timing belts (Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Reassembling the timing pulleys
Fit pulley (3) on hub (4), making the pulley reference point (A) coincide with the hub reference mark (B).
Fit washer (2) fully home on the pulley, aligning the reference mark (C) with pulley reference point (A) and hub reference mark (B).
Start screws (1) in the hub threaded holes (D).
Tighten the screws (1) to the service tightening torque (Min. 6 Nm. - Max. 7 Nm).
Refitting the cylinder heads pulleys/idler pulleys
Note
HEAD PULLEYS
Make sure that seat (D) is free of damage or burr.

Check that key (B) is properly installed to keyway (D) on each camshaft.
Refit belt roller (4) on camshaft (5), inserting key (B) in the pulley slot (C).
Apply the indicated product to the thread of the camshaft (5).
Carry out the same operations on the other camshaft.
Insert tool (A) part no. 88713.1806 in the pulleys to block its rotation.
Apply the indicated product to the mating face of the ring nut (3).
Fit the ring nut (3).
Carry out the same operations on the other camshaft.
Important
Always fit new nuts on reassembly.
Using the bush supplied with tool (A) part no. 88713.1806, together with a torque wrench, lock the ring nuts (3) of pulleys (4) to a torque
of 71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm).
FIXED TENSIONERS
Fit the fixed tensioner (2), with its bearing, to its pin on vertical head.
Apply the indicated product to the nut thread (1).
Tighten nut (1) on the vertical head pin, placing washer (7) in-between.
Tighten nut (1) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm).
Repeat the same procedure to refit the fixed tensioner to horizontal head.
Refit the mobile tensioners and the timing belts (Refitting the timing belts).
Refitting the timing belts
Loosen the two screws (1) and remove the timing inspection cover (2).
Position tool (A) part no. 88713.4791 (without degree wheel) so as to be able to rotate the crankshaft.
Position the horizontal cylinder to TDC (combustion stage) by following the procedure below:
Rotate the crankshaft so that the reference on the driving pulley (3) is aligned with the reference on the clutch cover (4), as shown in the
figure.
Remove tool part no.88713.4791 previously installed and insert tool (B) part no.88713.2011 so as to lock crankshaft rotation.
Align the two camshafts as shown in the image and insert tool (C) part no.88765.1623.
Important
Make sure that tool is installed in the correct direction, as shown in the figure.
Loosen the six retaining screws (5) of the pulleys (6) and turn them anticlockwise until they get fully home.
Insert belt (7) taking care to perfectly fit it inside the transmission pulley (8).
Apply the indicated product to the shaft thread (12).

Insert mobile tensioner (9), secure it in place by starting nut (10) and placing washer (11) in-between.
Screw nut (10) without tightening it to torque.
Use tool (D) part no.97900.0253 to tension vertical cylinder belt.
During tensioning, comply with the values in the table below.
When belt has been tensioned, tighten nut (10) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min.22 - Max.28).

status value

115)
80)
Tighten screws (5) to a torque of 14 Nm (Min.12.5 - Max.15.5).
Remove tool part no. 88765.1623 previously fitted.
Align the two camshafts of the horizontal head as already done for the vertical head, and insert tool (C) part no.88765.1623.
Repeat the same procedure performed for the vertical head belt, without forgetting to tension the horizontal head belt by complying with
the following values.

status value

115)
Used 75 ± 5 Hz Even a new belt just installed on an engine that has been started for the first time up to fan turning on has
(Min. 70 - Max. to be considered as used.
80)
Position timing inspection cover (2) and start screws (1).

Tighten screws (1) to a torque of 5 Nm (Min.4.5 - Max.5.5).
Refitting the timing outer covers
recommended.
Tighten screws (6) and special screw (7) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min.9 - Max.11) following the indicated sequence.
Insert the blow-by hose (2) inside valve and secure it in place by tightening clamp (5) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ±10%.
Position the blow-by hose as shown in chapter “Refitting the external elements”.
recommended.
Position hose (2) on airbox and close clamp (1).

Removing the camshafts
Note
Remove the timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belts).
Remove the cylinder head pulleys (Removing the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioner).
Loosen screws (2) and remove the main wiring support (1).
HORIZONTAL HEAD
Working on the horizontal head, undo the screws (3) and remove the O-rings (4) from head cover (5).
Remove the horizontal head cover (5).
Remove gaskets (6) and (7) from the horizontal head cover (5).
Undo and remove the screws (9) securing the camshaft supports (10) and (11).
Withdraw the camshaft supports (10) and (11) straight out from the horizontal head, taking care not to damage the machined faces and
centring dowels (12).
For an easier removal of the camshaft supports, work on the indicated points.
Remove the exhaust side camshaft assy (13) and intake side camshaft assy (14) and slide out sealing rings (15) positioned at their
ends.
VERTICAL HEAD
Working on the vertical head, undo the screw (3), the three special screws (8) and remove the O-rings (4) from head cover (18).
Remove the vertical head cover (18).
Remove gaskets (6) and (7) from the vertical head cover (18).
Undo and remove the screws (9) securing the camshaft supports (10) and (11).
Withdraw the camshaft supports (10) and (11) straight out from the vertical head, taking care not to damage the machined faces and
centring dowels (12).
For an easier removal of the camshaft supports, work on the indicated points.
Remove the exhaust side camshaft assy (13) and intake side camshaft assy (14) and slide out sealing rings (15) positioned at their
ends.
Check of the camshafts and supports
Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving.
Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power.
Place the camshaft between two opposite centres and check the run-out on the areas indicated using two dial gauges.
Service limit: 0.1 mm (0.004 in).
Visually inspect the camshaft tracks for scoring and abnormal wear.
If any of the above defects are found, the camshaft should be replaced.
If you find scoring or excessive wear, check the operation of the engine lubrication circuit.
Refitting the camshafts
Note
Note
The described operations regard the horizontal cylinder head. For the vertical head, follow the same procedure.
IDENTIFYING THE CAMSHAFTS
The meaning of the first two letters punched in the highlighted area of the camshaft is as follows:
- The first letter indicates the cylinder head to which the camshaft belongs (“V” Vertical; “O” Horizontal).
- The second letter indicates the head side (“A” Intake, “S” Exhaust).
Stamped letters Shaft type
Head Side
VA Vertical Intake
VS Vertical Exhaust
OA Horizontal Intake
OS Horizontal Exhaust
Use specified product both on the cylinder head and on supports (10) and (11), to lubricate the seats of the camshafts (see green
areas).
Fill reservoirs (A) with specified product.
Apply the specified product at the four points of the support (11) shown in red in the figure.
Clean off any excess of sealant.
Apply sealant only on the timing side support (11) and not on support (10).
Install the intake camshaft (16) and exhaust camshaft (17) in their housings on cylinder head, and rotate them to distribute the lubricant
evenly.
Check that the centring dowels (12) are present.
Refit the supports (10) and (11) aimed as shown in the figure, so that they are perfectly seated on the cylinder head, checking that the
number stamped in zone (B) of the cylinder head is the same as the number stamped in the support zone (C).
Apply the specified product to screws (9) thread and underhead.
Start screws (9) on supports (10) and (11).
Pre-tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm. - Max. 11 Nm).
Note
Pre-tighten one cap at a time in the sequence indicated in the figure.
Tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 22.5 Nm (Min. 21 Nm. - Max. 25 Nm).
Note
Tighten one cap at a time in the sequence indicated in the figure.
Remove any excess of sealant from between the cylinder head and the cap (11).
Turn the camshafts (16) and (17) by hand to check that they rotate freely.
Note
The first screw to be tightened must the one indicated in the figure (intake and timing side).
Important
Now, proceed checking the valve clearance.
Check valve clearance by following the reference procedure (Checking and adjusting the valve clearance).
SEALING RINGS
Note
Before installing seal rings (15) make sure that the relevant seats (B) on the head are perfectly clean.
Remove any excess of previously applied lubricant.
Lubricate the indicated seats (B).

Only in case the ring has not been previously lubricated, lubricate the internal diameter of seal rings (15) with GREASE C, or lubricate
the cap external diameter with engine oil (better if wrapping the cap in a cloth soaked in engine oil).
Note
Always make sure that the cap, the seal rings and their seats are free from surface flaws (dents, scratches, etc.) and dirt (dust, other
solid residues).
Fit seal rings (15) on camshafts (16) and (17) using tool (F) part no. 88713.1906.
Note
Once installed, the seal rings must be positioned as indicated. Clean any excess of lubricant with a clean cloth.
CYLINDER HEAD COVERS
Note
Apply the indicated product at the points (C) of the horizontal head cover (5), as shown in the figure.
Fit the gaskets (6) and (7) on the horizontal cylinder head cover (5), as shown in the figure.
Cylinder head cover identification: the vertical head cover (18) has a tooth (A) on the left-hand side (exhaust side), whereas cover (5)
has a tooth (B) on the right-hand side (exhaust side).
Apply a bead (F) of at least 2 mm (0.08 in) (max. 4 mm (0.16 in)) of sealant on the four areas (D) of head surface (E) (approximately in
the middle of the cap machined surface, as indicated), by respecting the values and position (G), i.e. 10 ÷ 11 mm (0.40 ÷ 0.43 in) from
the cap edge.
Value (M) is approximately 19 mm.
HORIZONTAL HEAD
Working on the horizontal head, refit horizontal head cover (5) on the head, with pre-fitted gasket, as shown.
Centre the cover in the four fixing holes.
Fit O-rings (4) on screws (3).
Start the screws (3) on the horizontal head cover (5).
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the indicated sequence.
Thoroughly remove any excess of previously applied sealant between cylinder head and cover.
VERTICAL HEAD
Working on the vertical head, refit vertical head cover (18) on the head, with pre-fitted gasket, as shown.
Centre the cover in the four fixing holes.
Fit O-rings (4) on screw (3) and stud bolts (8).
Start the screw (3) and stud bolts (8) on vertical head cover (18).
Tighten the screw (3) and stud bolts (8) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm – Max. 11 Nm), following the indicated sequence.
Thoroughly remove any excess of previously applied sealant between cylinder head and cover.
Refit the cylinder head pulleys (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioner).
Refit the timing belts (Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Refit main wiring support (1) and tighten screws (2).

Removing the intake manifold and water union
Note
REMOVING THE INTAKE MANIFOLDS

Remove the airbox and injector unit (Removing the airbox and throttle body).
Working on the horizontal head, loosen screws (2) retaining horizontal head intake manifold (1).
Loosen nut (3) and remove the horizontal head intake manifold (1).
Repeat the same operation on the vertical head intake manifold.
REMOVING THE WATER UNIONS

Remove the affected hoses by following the reference procedure (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Working on the vertical head, loosen stud bolt (4) and screw (5), and remove the water union (6) collecting seal (7).
Working on the horizontal head, first loosen water temperature sensor (8) from water union, then remove water union by loosening
screws (9).
Refitting the intake manifold and water union
Note
The figures show an engine block removed from the frame, but the operation can also be performed with engine on the frame.
REFITTING THE INTAKE MANIFOLDS
Working on the horizontal head, position the horizontal head intake manifold (1) on the head and start screws (2) and nut (3).
Tighten screws (2) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min.9 - Max.11) and nut (3) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min.9 - Max.11).
Repeat the same operation on the vertical head intake manifold.
REFITTING THE WATER UNIONS

Make sure that seals (7) are not damaged, if worn out or damaged, replace them with new ones.
Install seal (7) in its seat on the horizontal head water union (6), paying attention to position the protrusion (A) in the groove (B).
In the same way, install seal on vertical head water union.
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on screws (5) and (9) and special screw (4). A maximum of three removal/refitting
operations is recommended.
Position union (6), and start special screw (4) and screw (5).
Tighten special screw (4) and screw (5) to a torque of 6 Nm (Min.5 - Max.7).
Position horizontal head water union and start screws (9).

Apply the indicated product on temperature sensor (8) and tighten it to a torque of 23 Nm (Min.20 - Max.26).
Refit the tank (Refitting the fuel tank).
Refit the previously-removed hoses (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Fill the cooling system Changing the coolant.
Removing the cylinder heads

Remove the cooling system hoses (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the external timing belt covers (Removing the timing belt external covers).
Remove the timing belts (Removing the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Undo the nuts (1) on the cylinder head stud bolts.

Remove the polygonal nuts (1) and special washers (2).
Remove the cylinder head assembly by lifting it off the engine stud bolts.
Collect the cylinder head gasket (A).

Repeat the same procedure for the horizontal cylinder head.
Removing the valves
Remove the complete head from the engine (Removing the engine heads).
Remove the timing pulleys (Removing the cylinder head pulley/fixed tensioner).
Disconnect the spark plug caps.
Slide out the secondary air pipe (Removing the secondary air system).
Remove the cylinder head covers, the camshaft supports and the camshafts (Removing the camshafts).
Raise rocker arm (3) and remove the opening shim (4) from the valves with a pair of pliers.
Push down the closing rocker arms (5) and (6) and the closing shim (7).
Remove the split rings (8) from the valves with a magnetic screwdriver.
Extract the closing shims (7) from the valve using a pair of pliers.
Withdraw the valves (9) and (10) from underhead of the cylinder head.
Repeat the same procedures for the other cylinder head.
Removing the valve rocker arms
Remove the complete head from the engine (Removing the engine heads).
Remove the timing pulleys (Removing the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioner).
Remove the cylinder head covers, the camshaft supports and the camshafts (Removing the camshafts).
Loosen the eight plugs (11) and collect seals (12).
Using an M6 screw, withdraw the shafts (13) of the opening rocker arms (3) on the exhaust and intake sides.
Remove the opening rocker arms (3).
Using the pawl of the rocker arm spring tensioning kit part no. 88713.2069 installed between the spring and the inner wall of the cylinder
head, move the straight end of return springs (15) and (16) and insert it in the drilled shaft.
Springs (16) and (15) must be removed from inside the swinging arm hole.
Use the shaft to slide the end of the spring into its rest position.
Using an M6 screw, withdraw the shafts (17) of the closing rocker arms on the exhaust and intake sides.
Remove the closing rocker arms (6) and (5), the springs (16) and (15) with the spacers (18).
Remove the sealing rings (14) from the ends of the valve guides.
Repeat the same procedures for the other cylinder head.

Overhauling the cylinder head components
Cylinder heads
Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts.
Remove any scale from the coolant ducts.
Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, steps or other damage.
Check that the cylinder mating surfaces of the cylinder head are free of carbon deposits and scale. If this is not the case, spread
diamond lapping paste (6÷12 micron thickness) on a reference surface and slide the cylinder head on the surface as shown in the figure
until a flat surface is obtained.
Important
Since it is absolutely necessary that the machining is extremely precise, we recommend having it performed by operators specialised in
grinding operations.
Maintaining the valve seat
Visually inspect the valve seats: there must be no pitting or cracks.

Minor damage can be repaired by grinding with special 45° and 60° single-blade grinders. Grind the valves and check the seal.
If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and 0.06 mm oversized
outside diameters.
Warning
Check that there are no leaks by filling the intake and exhaust pipes with a suitable product. In case of leaks, check the repair quality
with Prussian blue.
Important
When you change the valve seats, change the valve guides as well.
Proceed as follows.
Remove the worn seats, grinding carefully to avoid any damage to cylinder head housings.
Check the diameter of head housings and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit of 0.04 to 0.10 mm.
Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C and chill the new valve seats in dry ice.
Drive the seats perfectly square into the housings using the appropriate valve guide seat installers 88713.2846 and 88713.2847.
Allow the cylinder head to cool down and grind the seats to the following dimensions: CA = Ø 41.6 ± 0.025 mm. CS = Ø 33.6 ± 0.025
mm. S = 1.2 mm. D = 0.2 to 0.4 mm.
Important
Do not use any lapping compound after final grinding.
It is advisable to lap the radius between the intake valve seats and the intake ducts (F = before; G = after).
Lubricate valve seats with the indicated product.

Valve guides
Check the internal surface of the valve guides: there should be no signs of deformation or cracking.
Thoroughly check the dimensions of the valve guide.

Measure the inside diameter with a suitable gauge.
Measure the diameter at different positions of the valve guide.
The clearance upon fitting must be: maximum detected value - minimum detected value = 0.03÷0.045 mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.08 mm.
Change the valve guides when the ovality exceeds permissible limit or the valve stem clearance is outside the tolerance range.
When you change the valve guide, you must also change the valve.
Valve guides as spare parts are available with outside diameter oversized by 0.03, 0.06 and 0.09 mm.
Change the valve guides as follows:
- heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C;

- remove the original valve guides using tool part no. 88713.2842;
- allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seats;
- choose suitable valve guides to obtain an interference fit in the cylinder head of 0.022 ÷ 0.051 mm;
- heat up the cylinder head again and chill the new valve guides in dry ice;
- lubricate the seats in the cylinder head and install the valve guides using the appropriate service tools and with reference to the
dimensions given in the figure;
A= 22.4±0.15 mm
B= 28.45±0.15 mm
Hone the mating surface with a reamer.
Checking the valve
Check that the stem and the valve seat contact surface are in good condition.
There must be no pitting, cracks, deformations or signs of wear.
Warning
The valves cannot be ground.
Perform the following checks.

Measure the diameter of the valve stem at various points along the section that runs in the valve guide.
Check the valve stem for buckling. Place it on a "V" reference and measure deformation with a dial gauge.
Service limit: 0.053 mm.
Check the valve stem for buckling. Place the valve on a "V" reference block, set a dial gauge perpendicular to head and measure
concentricity of valve face at 45°:
- nominal concentricity: 0.01 mm;

- service limit: 0.03 mm.
Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minium and oil to check that the contact surface (W) between valve and seat is 1.4 to 1.6 mm (1.05 ÷
1.35 mm when new). Grind the seat if the dimension measured is greater than the above limit.
Checking the valve seal
Note
Lubricate valve stems in the indicated area, only.
After grinding the seats it is important to check the seal between valve face and seat: if the seat contact area (S) on the valve is wider
than the 45° band (W) this could lead to poor sealing.
If valve sealing test outcome is negative, remove valve, clean it and refit it making sure that it is properly seated.
Then repeat sealing test; should test outcome be still negative, repeat the whole process.
Once sealing test has been repeated and outcome is still negative, identify the leaking duct and replace valve.
Repeat the sealing test until outcome is positive.
Checking the rocker arms
Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.

Check the condition of rocker arm bore and shaft.
Clearance upon fitting: 0.025÷0.049 mm.
Wear limit: 0.08 mm.
Opening and closing shims - Springs
Check the condition of the contact surfaces of the valve opening and closing shims (C): there must be no signs of wear.
Check the conditions of the return springs (D) of the closing rocker arms: no cracks, deformations or failure must be present.
Reassembling the cylinder head
The exhaust side can be recognised by the presence of three threaded holes (A) on the flange and a fitting to frame (C).
The intake side can be identified by the presence of four threaded holes (B) on the flange.
All the figures in this chapter refer to a vertical cylinder head.
Valve guide sealing rings

Position the cylinder head on the appropriate support 88713.2103.
Use denatured alcohol to lubricate the valve guide sealing rings (14) and insert them from the spring side onto tool (L) no. 88713.2442.
Fit the end of the tool into the valve guide and use a hammer to tap the sealing rings (14) home into the valve guides.
Refitting the heads
Warning
To prevent oil leaks in the contact area between cylinders and crankcase, each time the head is removed, cylinder and piston must be
removed as well to clean the mating faces of crankcase and cylinder and restore the worn gaskets and O-rings and apply again sealing
compound.
Reposition the cylinder head gasket (A) on the stud bolts of the engine aiming the wordings upwards.
Lower the cylinder head carefully over the stud bolts. Take care not to damage the threads.
Apply the indicated product on the underhead of nuts (1) and on the stud bolt thread.
Fit washers (2) on stud bolts and screw nuts (1).
As a first step, tighten the nuts (1) to a torque of 20 Nm using a tool part no. 88713.2676 with a torque wrench, following the sequence
Pre-tighten nuts (1) to a torque of 40 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 42 Nm), following the sequence indicated in the figure.
Tighten nuts (1) to a torque of 60 Nm (Min. 57 Nm - Max. 63 Nm), following the sequence indicated in the figure.
Apply the same procedure to the horizontal head.
Check that the cylinder head gasket (A) is fitted on the mating surface between horizontal head and cylinder.
Lower the complete horizontal cylinder head carefully over the stud bolts. Take care not to damage the threads.
Apply the indicated product on the underhead of nuts (1) and on the stud bolt thread.
Fit washers (2) on stud bolts and screw nuts (1).
As a first step, tighten the nuts (1) to a torque of 20 Nm using a tool part no. 88713.2676 with a torque wrench, following the sequence
Pre-tighten nuts (1) to a torque of 40 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 42 Nm), following the sequence indicated in the figure.
Tighten nuts (1) to a torque of 60 Nm (Min. 57 Nm - Max. 63 Nm), following the sequence indicated in the figure.
Refit the timing belts bringing the shaft to TDC (Refitting the mobile tensioner/timing belt).
Refit the cooling system hoses (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refitting the valves
Note
Carefully clean the two intake valve seats (A) and the two exhaust valve seats (B).
Lubricate the stems of the two intake valves (5) and the two exhaust valve stems (4) with engine oil.
Fit the valves in their seats on cylinder head, fully home.
If previously removed, fit the seal rings before installing the valves.
Lubricate seals (6) with the specified product; use tool part no. 88713.2442 to drive the four seals (6) in their seats on valve guides.
Important
Pay attention not to lubricate the ring seats.
Note
Position the seal ring as shown in the figure.
Fit the closing rocker arms as described in chapter (Refitting the rocker arms).
Insert closing shims (2) in the valve stem.
Insert the two split rings (3) in the valve seat.
Using suitable tools, quickly push the closing rocker arm to bring the shim (2) into seat.
Fit the opening shims (1).
Repeat the same procedure for the other valves.
Refitting the rocker arms
Note
Check the rocker arm conditions: they must feature no scratches or breakage.
The closing and opening rocker arm shafts are different.
The closing rocker arm shafts feature a 10 mm (0.39 in) diameter, whereas the opening rocker arm shafts feature a 9 mm (0.35 in)
diameter.
REFITTING THE OPENING ROCKER ARMS

Fit the opening rocker arm shafts (7) using suitable tools.
Insert a spacer (8) on closing rocker arm shaft (7), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit spring (5) on spacer (8), as shown in the figure, by engaging one end (A) in the relevant seat on the cylinder head.
Place the closing rocker arm (5) in its seat having care that the through hole is aligned with the closing rocker arm shaft (7).
Fit the closing rocker arm shaft (7) fully home.
Using a commercial pawl, engage spring (6) on the closing rocker arm (5).
Follow the same procedure to refit the closing rocker arms.
Note
Always install the closing rocker arms on the exhaust side before those on the intake side.
Warning
Take care not to damage the shoe of the closing rocker arm with the intake spring during assembly.
REFITTING THE CLOSING ROCKER ARMS

Fit the opening rocker arm shafts (3) using suitable tools.
Fit the opening rocker arm (4) and drive the shaft (3) fully home.
Follow the same procedure to refit the opening rocker arms.
If not installed before, lift the opening rocker arms (4) and insert the opening shim as described in chapter "Refitting the valves".
Refit the camshafts (Refitting the camshafts) and check the valve opening clearance (Checking and adjusting the valve clearance).
Insert the gaskets (2) on the plugs (1), orienting them (preferably) with the square edge side facing the cylinder head.
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the plugs (1). If it is not so, apply the indicated product on the first two plug
threads, spreading it for the half circumference (about 180°).
Tighten the plugs to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 14 Nm - Max. 16 Nm).
Note
After tightening, remove any excessive sealant.
Removing the cylinder/piston assembly
Note
Note
Remove the heads (Removing the heads).
Loosen the clips (1) and remove the hoses (2) and (3) from the cylinders (4) and from the generator cover.
Remove the cylinder head gasket (6) from the piston-cylinder assy.
Remove the bushes (7).
Use tool (A) part no. 88765.1635 to bring the piston of the horizontal cylinder near the TDC.
Since insertion of piston in the cylinder is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the piston together with the
barrel as described below.
Position a rag on crankcase opening so as to prevent gudgeon pin retainers from falling inside it.
Carefully lift the cylinder (8) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical. If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using both hands or tap its base
gently with a rubber mallet.
Continue to lift the cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (9).
Block the crankcase opening with a rag or soft paper to prevent foreign material from falling inside.
Working on clutch side, remove the snap ring (10) from the gudgeon pin (9).
Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin (9) sufficiently to release the connecting rod.
Lift the cylinder-piston assembly (8) and (12) clear of the crankcase stud bolts.
If work is to be carried out on the piston, carefully withdraw it from the cylinder.
Remove seal (11) from the crankcase unit.
Remove the centring bush (13) and the O-ring (14).
To remove the vertical cylinder-piston assembly, bring the vertical piston to TDC and proceed as for removal of the horizontal cylinder.
Important
Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed:
V= Vertical - O= Horizontal.
Overhauling the cylinder/piston components
OVERHAULING THE CYLINDER
Check that the walls of the cylinder are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder diameter at 50 mm (1.97 in) from the top face and
determine the size class to which it belongs in accordance with the values specified in chapter "Cylinder/piston".
Repeat measurement of the diameter at three heights "A" (10 mm (0.394 in) from the upper surface), "B" (50 mm (1.97 in) from the
upper surface) and "C" (100 mm (3.94 in) from the upper surface) and in two directions at 90° between them; check that the
measurements of taper and oval fall within the range specified in chapter "Cylinder/piston".
In the event of damage or excessive wear the cylinder must be replaced as it has a silicon carbide coating (which provides the cylinder
walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore cannot be ground.
The cylinders are marked with letters (stamped between the two oil return ways) indicating their size class.
Always match piston with cylinder from the same size class.
OVERHAULING THE PISTON
Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves, removing any carbon deposits.
Visually inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks, or other damage.
The piston diameter must be measured at 7.5 mm (0,295 in) from the bottom of the skirt and in perpendicular direction to the gudgeon
pin axis.
The pistons must always be replaced as a pair.
CHECKING THE PISTON-CYLINDER COUPLING
The pistons are marked with a symbol (selected letter (L) punched onto the piston crown) that indicates the size class to which they
belong.
Always match piston with cylinder from the same size class.
(F): arrow that indicates the exhaust side.
For the correct values, refer to chapter "Cylinder/piston".
OVERHAULING THE GUDGEON PINS
Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating.
The well-lubricated gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness.
For the coupling clearance values with the piston and the connecting rod, see chapter "Cylinder/Piston".
If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.
OVERHAULING THE PISTON RINGS
The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring.
Spare pistons are supplied complete with piston rings and gudgeon pin.
CHECKING THE PISTON RING-GROOVE COUPLING
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm (0.0059 in) for the top ring (1st ring "S") and 0.10 mm (0.0039 in) for the others (2nd
ring "T" and oil scraper ring "R").
The piston rings must always be fitted with markings (M) facing upwards.
First ring (S).
Second ring (T).

Oil scraper ring (R).
CHECKING THE PISTON RING/CYLINDER COUPLING
Insert the piston ring 50 mm (1.97 in) from the top face of the cylinder; make sure that the ring is positioned perfectly square to the
cylinder axis by checking with a gauge at several points around the ring that the top surface of the ring is 50 mm (1.97 in) from the
cylinder top face.
Measure the piston ring gap (A):
Distance (A) Wear limit
Upper piston ring 0.2 ÷ 0.4 mm (0.008 in ÷ 0.016 in) 0.8 mm (0.031 in)
Distance (A) Wear limit
Intermediate piston ring 0.3 ÷ 0.5 mm (0.012 in ÷ 0.02 in) 0.8 mm (0.031 in)
Oil scraper ring 0.2 ÷ 0.7 mm (0.008 in ÷ 0.028 in) 1.0 mm (0.039 in)
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly
Note
If new parts are used, it is necessary to match cylinders and pistons of the same selection (see chapter "Overhauling the cylinder/piston
components").
Note
If the pistons have been separated from their cylinders, before reassembling these components, position the piston ring gaps at 120°
from one another (the markings must always face the piston crown).
Use a universal tool to carefully insert the piston into the cylinder (first lubricate the inside of the cylinder with engine oil). Position the
cylinder with the smallest valve recess is on the side of the exhaust.
Remove any deposits and degrease the contact surfaces of the crankcase halves and the cylinders.
Refit the centring bush (13) and gasket (14) to crankcase.
Apply the indicated product to both sides of gasket (11), as shown in the figure.
Fit gasket (11) on crankcase stud bolts, aimed so that “top inlet” stamping is visible by the operator.
Position the gasket (11) in contact with the crankcase halves.
Apply engine oil on the shank of gudgeon pin (9).
Bring the connecting rod small end close to TDC and slide the cylinder-piston assembly (12) and (8) onto the crankcase stud bolts.
Push the connecting rod small end into the piston (12) close to the hole and insert the gudgeon pin (9).
The gudgeon pin must slide smoothly in the connecting rod small end bush and in the piston (12).
Close the crankcase opening with a cloth to prevent foreign objects from falling inside and then fit the snap ring (10).
Important
Always fit new circlips upon reassembly.
Push the cylinder (8) down until it seats against the crankcase.
Refit the bushes (7).
Fit the gasket (6) of the vertical cylinder head on the stud bolts, aiming it so that the side with the stamped part no. (M) is in contact with
the cylinder head.
Note
The shape of the gasket prevents incorrect fitting, provided that the fluid flow holes are aligned with those on the cylinder.
Repeat the above procedures to refit the horizontal cylinder-piston assembly.
Refit hoses (2) and (3) on head couplings and fasten them using clamps (1).
Tighten the clamps (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm (Min. 2 Nm - Max. 3 Nm).
Refit the engine cylinder heads (Refitting the engine cylinder heads).
Description of the clutch assembly
Note
The clutch has the important function to immediately disconnect the gearbox primary shaft from the crankshaft.
Working on clutch lever (1) the master cylinder (2) is pressurized and pushes on the control rod (3). Therefore the pusher plate (4) is
moved and detaches the driven plates from the driving ones.
The clutch consists of a housing (5) that rotates freely on the primary shaft (6).
Inside the clutch housing there the driving plates (7) and the driven plates (8).
The driving clutch plates move together with housing (5) and crankshaft (10) by means of gear (9).
While the driven plates move together with the clutch hub (11) that is fixed to the gearbox shaft (6).
The entire system is moved by the pressure on the hub springs.
Working on the clutch lever, thanks to the pusher plate mechanism, the clutch will be detached and the plates will rotate freely with no
connection to housing and hub.
This will allow the detachment of crankshaft and gearbox shaft.
The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunction.
A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by:
- excessive play of the control lever;

- distorted clutch plates;
- incorrect spring tension;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A clutch which slips may be caused by:
- no backlash of the control lever;

- worn clutch plates;
- weakened springs;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A noisy clutch may be caused by:
- excessive backlash between the primary drive gears;

- damaged primary drive gear teeth;
- excessive housing between driving plate tabs and the clutch housing;
- worn gear/clutch housing bearings;
- the presence of metal particles (filings) on the gear teeth.
Removing the clutch
Undo the fixing screws (1) and remove the ring (2) and the springs (3) from the pusher plate (4).
Slide out the pusher plate (4), taking care not to damage the snap rings (B) and slide out the clutch control pin (5).
If necessary, using a suitable diameter drift, remove the bearing (6) fitted on pusher plate inner side (4).
Lock the clutch housing with tool (A) part no. 88713.3408, loosen the retaining nut (7) and collect the lower washer (8).
Slide the plate assy (9) out of clutch housing (10), marking them so as to refit them in the same position.
Remove the clutch housing (10).
Collect spacer (11).
The plate pack (9) consists of:
- 8 driving plates (A);

- 7 driven plates (B);
- 2 spacers (C);
Checking and overhauling the components
CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CLUTCH HOUSING AND FRICTION PLATE
Insert a friction plate (E) in the clutch housing (F) and measure the clearance (S) with a feeler gauge.
Clearance "S" must not exceed 0.6 mm (0.02 in).
If it does, replace the plates and, if necessary, the clutch housing.
OVERHAULING THE CLUTCH PLATES
The clutch plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Measure the thickness of the friction plates; it should not be less than 2.6 mm (0.10 in).
The rated thickness of the plates pack must be 35,6 +0,80 mm (1,40+0.030 in).
Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge.
Max. flatness error: 0.2 mm (0.007 in).
OVERHAULING THE PUSHER PLATE
Check bearing (7) conditions: replace the bearing if the play is excessive.
Check the mating surface of the last driven plate; if extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as described previously for the
cylinder head surface (Overhauling the cylinder head components).
Check the condition of the spring guide seats of pusher plate (4) and of snap rings (5).
OVERHAULING THE PUSHER PLATE SPRINGS
Measure the length "L" of each spring.

Free length: 50.59 mm (0.007 in).
Working length: 25.8 mm (1.01 in).
Replace any springs that are shorter than the above limit value.
Refitting the clutch
If the plate assy (9) was disassembled, take special care with the positioning of the clutch plate upon reassembling.
Insert the clutch plate pack on hub.
The plate pack (9) consists of:
- 6 driven plates (A) with th. 1.6 mm (0.06 in).

- 1 driven plate (B) with th. 2 mm (0.08 in).
- 5 drive plates (C) with th. 3 mm (0.12 in).
- 3 drive plates (D) with th. 3 mm (0.12 in).
- 1 Belleville washer (E) with th. 0.8 mm (0.03 in).
- 1 shimming plate (F).
Refit the spacer (12) onto the primary shaft.

Note
The figures show an engine block removed from the frame, but the operation can also be performed with engine on the frame.
Refit the housing (10) onto the primary shaft.

Fit the spacer (11) to the clutch housing (10).
Fit the clutch plate pack (9) with hub inside the clutch housing (10).
Fit lock washer (8) on primary shaft, driving it fully home inside clutch unit.
Apply the indicated product on nut (7) mating surface and on primary shaft thread, then tighten nut driving it fully home by hand inside
primary shaft.
Lock the clutch hub with tool (A) part no. 88713.2651 (Clutch hub reaction tool), so as to hold it when tightening nut (7).
Tighten nut (7) to a torque of 190 Nm (Min. 180 Nm – max. 200 Nm).
Remove tool (A) part no. 88713.2651 (Clutch hub reaction tool).
Refit the clutch control pin (5) and bearing (6) on pusher plate (4).
Fit the pusher plate (4) on the clutch hub.
Insert snap rings (B) on pusher plate (4).
Fit springs (3) in pusher plate (4).

Fit ring (2) to pusher plate (4) and start screws (1).
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm. - Max. 11 Nm).
Refit the clutch cover (Refitting the clutch cover).
Fill the engine with oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Removing the clutch cover
Note
Loosen screws (2) and special screws (3) that retain the clutch cover (1).
Remove the clutch cover (1).
Disassembling the clutch cover
OIL FILLER CAP
Loosen oil plug (1) and collect O-ring (2).
INSPECTION SIGHT GLASS
Operating from the inside of the clutch cover with a suitable drift, remove the oil inspection sight glass (3).
CLUTCH PLUG
Loosen plug (4) and collect seal (5).
CRANKSHAFT CENTRING BUSHING
Remove snap ring (6), shim (7), sealing ring (8) and crankshaft bushing (9).
SOUNDPROOFING METAL SHEET
Loosen the retaining screws (10).

Remove the sounddeadening sheet (11) and the soundproofing panel (12) from clutch cover.
Reassembling the clutch cover
SOUNDPROOFING METAL SHEET
Insert the soundproofing panel (12) fully home against clutch cover, aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit the sound-deadening sheet (11) inside clutch cover, positioning it as shown in the figure
Start and tighten screws (10) to a torque of 12 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 14 Nm).
After tightening, remove the excess of threadlocker.
CLUTCH PLUG
Fit washer (5) on plug (4).
Start cap (4) on the clutch cover.
Tighten plug (4) to a torque of 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 12 Nm).
CRANKSHAFT CENTRING BUSHING
Apply the indicated product to the bushing seat (9).

Drive bushing (9) using a suitable drift.
Clean seal (8) using the specified product.
Using the specific tool, drive seal (8), with the spring side facing out, as shown in the figure.
Fit spacer (7) and snap ring (6).
At the end of fitting operations, make sure that the snap ring is completely inside the seat of clutch cover.
INSPECTION SIGHT GLASS
Apply the indicated product to the inspection sight glass (3) and position it on clutch cover, as shown in the figure.
Using a suitable drift, fit the inspection sight glass to X = 47.5 +0.50 mm (1.87 0.010 in).
Make sure that two of the four holes (A) inside the sight glass are parallel to the cover bottom (B).
OIL FILLER CAP
Refit O-ring (2) in cap (1).

Start cap (1) on the clutch cover.
tighten plug (1) to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 Nm - Max. 5.5 Nm).

Refitting the clutch cover
Note
Apply the specified product to crankshaft (B).
Thoroughly clean contact surfaces of clutch cover (1) and RH crankcase half (Cleaning and applying the silicone rubber sealant on work
surfaces) and apply an even and continuous bead of sealing compound on clutch cover (1) by following the path shown in the figure.
Warning
An excessive quantity of sealant may cause the internal components of the clutch cover to block.
Warning
Fit clutch cover within five minutes from sealant application.
Refit the centring bush (A) on RH crankcase half.
Move clutch cover (1) fully home on crankcase.
Start screws (2) and special screws (3) on clutch cover (1).
Tighten screws (2) and special screws (3) to the torque indicated below, following the sequence shown in the figure.
- First tightening: 3 ÷ 3.5 Nm;

- Final tightening: 90º;
Refill the engine oil (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Removing the primary drive gears
Remove the clutch unit (Removing the clutch).
Lock the primary sprocket (1) with holding tool (A) part no.88713.3417 and loosen the ring nut (2) securing sprocket using bushing (B)
part no. 88713.3406.
Remove the ring nut (2) and the lock washer (3).
Remove the primary sprocket (1) using tool (C) part no. 88713.4882.
Collect the key (4).
Refitting the primary drive gears
Fully degrease the crankshaft splined end and the corresponding spline on the primary drive gear.
Make sure that key (4) is positioned on crankshaft.
Fit the primary sprocket (1) onto the crankshaft with the oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
Position washer (3).
Apply the indicated product on the ring nut (2) thread.
Start the ring nut (2) on the crankshaft.
Lock the primary sprocket (1) with holding tool (A) part no. 88713.3417.
Using bushing (B) part no. 88713.3406, tighten ring nut (2) to a torque of 190 Nm (Min. 171 Nm - Max. 209 Nm).
Refit the clutch unit (Refitting the clutch).
Removing the gearchange mechanism
Remove the gear shift (Removing the gearbox unit).
Remove the pump-cylinder hoses (Changing the coolant, Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the pump-water radiator hose (Removing cooling system hoses and unions).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover) and the flywheel-generator assembly (Removing the flywheel/generator
assembly).
Loosen screws (1) and (2) and remove the complete gearchange mechanism (3), collecting spacer (4).
Visually inspect the gear selector fork (5) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the selector drum.
Disassembling gear interlock plunger and ratchet
Undo the clutch-side crankcase half screw (5) and remove the ratchet (6), the washer (7) and the spring (8).
Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet
On the special screw (5), fit the gear ratchet (6), orienting it as shown in the figure, the washer (7) with the square edge side (D) facing
the clutch-side crankcase half, and the spring (8), positioning it so that the hook end (A) is facing the gear ratchet.
Locate the hook (A) of the spring on the gear ratchet as shown in the figure.
Apply the indicated product to screw (5) thread.
Start screw (5) on the casing.
Position end (B) of the spring so that it rests against rib (C) of the crankcase half, as shown in the figure.
Tighten screw (5) to a torque of 18 Nm (Min. 16 Nm - Max. 20 Nm).
Manually move the gear ratchet to check for proper spring operation.
Refitting the gearchange mechanism
Note
For better clarity, some of the following figures show the engine removed from the frame.
PRE-ASSEMBLING THE GEARCHANGE MECHANISM ASSEMBLY
Insert spring (6) inside gearbox selection shaft (7), aiming it as shown in the figure.
Fit the limit stop plate (8), the centring bush (9), aiming them as shown in the figure.
Fit shim (10) and snap ring (11).
Insert selector fork (5) inside gearbox selection shaft (7), fitting spring (12) as shown in the figure.
Fit washer(13) and snap ring inside fork (14).
Make sure that gearbox is in "neutral" position, otherwise move the gearbox shafts with a service lever until reaching this condition.
Remove centring bush (A).
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on screw threads (1) and (2). A maximum of three removal/refitting operations is
recommended.
Apply the indicated product in the chain-side casing seat and on the complete gearchange mechanism (3) pin.
Position the complete gearchange mechanism (3) on chain-side casing, insert teeth (B) on pins (C) of selector drum and secure it in
place by positioning plate (4) and screwing screws (1) and (2) without tightening.
Position tool (D) part no. 88713.0022, as shown in the figure, securing it to the casing with pin (E).
Insert tool pin (F) inside selector fork.
In this position, first tighten screw (2) to a torque of 36 Nm (Min. 34 Nm - Max. 38 Nm) and then screw (1) to a torque of 16 Nm (Min. 15
Nm - Max. 17 Nm).
Remove tool (D).
Warning
Make sure that the gearchange mechanism fixing screws are those indicated in our spare part catalogues. They must be screws of class
12.9 in order to respect the tightening torque indicated above.
Check for the correct operation of the complete gearchange mechanism, trying to engage all gears both in upshifting and downshifting,
making sure that there are no hard spots.
With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same should apply when a gear is
engaged.
Operate the gearchange lever and turn the front sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears engage when shifting up and
down.
Remove the previously installed lever and sprocket.
Refit centring bush (A).
Refit the flywheel/generator assembly and the generator cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refit the pump-water radiator hose (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the pump-cylinder hoses (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Refit the gear shift (Refitting the gearbox unit).
Removing the gearbox assembly

Remove the camshaft assembly (Removing the camshafts).
Remove the complete cylinder head assembly (Removing the engine heads).
Remove the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the generator side cover (Removing the generator cover) and the complete generator (Removing the flywheel/generator
assembly).
Remove the starter motor (Removing the starter motor).
Remove the primary drive gear (Removing the primary drive gear).
Remove the gear interlock ratchet (Removing the gear interlock plunger and ratchet).
Loosen screw (5) and remove gear selector drum flange (6).
Separate the crankcase halves (Separating the crankcase halves).
Withdraw the selector fork shafts (1).

Move forks (2) and (3) so as to disengage pins (B) from the seats in the gear selector drum (4).
Slide out gear selector drum (4) and remove magnet holder (7).
Remove gear selector forks (2) and (3).
Remove the gearbox primary (9) and secondary (10) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the shim washers on the ends of
the shafts.
If the bearing inner rings (A) are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox primary (9) and secondary (10) shafts
(Separating the crankcase halves).
Disassembling the gearbox shafts
Place the shaft in a vice in such a way to facilitate the disassembly operations.
Important
Take care not to invert the shim position upon reassembly: this would potentially lead to jamming when using the gear selector control,
making it necessary to reopen the crankcase.
DISASSEMBLING THE GEARBOX SECONDARY SHAFT
Slide out shim (1) from the secondary shaft.
Remove the first speed driven gear (3) with the needle roller bearing cage (4) and the shim (5).
Remove the fifth speed driven gear (6).
Use two flat blade screwdrivers to remove the snap ring (7) from its seat, taking care not to damage the shaft surface.
Slide off the splined washer (8).

Remove the fourth speed driven gear (9) with its roller bearing cage (10).
Remove the third speed driven gear (11) with its roller bearing cage (10) and splined washer (8).
Remove the snap ring (7).
Remove the sixth speed driven gear (12).

Slide out the splined washer (8) and the second speed driven gear (13).
Withdraw the roller bearing cage (10). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox secondary shaft (2).
DISASSEMBLING THE GEARBOX PRIMARY SHAFT
Slide out shim (16) from the primary shaft.

Remove the second speed driving gear (17) and remove the snap ring (18).
Important
Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring.
Remove the splined washer (19) and the sixth speed driving gear (20) with its roller bearing cage (21).
Slide off the splined washer (19).
Remove snap ring (18) and slide out the third and fourth speed driving gear (22).
Slide out the splined washer (19), the fifth speed driving gear (23) with the relevant roller bearing cage (21) from the primary shaft (15).
Overhauling the gearbox
Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of wear on the edges of
the teeth.
The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.
When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Check the needle roller bearings for wear.
The threads and splines of the shafts must be in perfect condition.
Also check that the component parts of the gear selector mechanism are in good condition.
Engage the gears and check that the gearchange mechanism does not stick (selector fork-gear groove, and fork pin-desmodromic drum
groove) due to incorrect end float.
Restore the correct end float by shimming the gearbox shafts and the selector drum with suitable shims (Gearbox).
Inspecting the gear selector forks
Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be replaced as they may lead to difficulties in gear changing or may suddenly
disengage when under load.
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove.
If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to replace the gear or the fork by referring to the limits
specified for each part (Gearbox).
Inspecting the fork selector drum
Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the groove on the selector drum.
If the service limit has been exceeded, determine which part must be replaced by comparing these dimensions with those of new
components.
Also check the wear on the drum support pins; these must not show any signs of scoring, burrs, or deformation.
Turn the drum in the crankcase to establish the extent of radial play.
If play is excessive, change whichever part is most worn. (Gearbox).
Reassembling the gearbox shafts
REASSEMBLING THE PRIMARY SHAFT
Apply the indicated product on the roller bearing cage (21).

Fit roller bearing cage (21), fifth speed gear (23) and splined washer (19) on the primary shaft (15).
Refit the snap ring (18), insert the third and fourth speed gear (22) and the snap ring (18).

Fit the splined washer (19), the roller bearing cage (21), the sixth speed gear (20) and the washer (19).
Refit the snap ring (18), insert the second speed gear (17) and the shim (16).
REASSEMBLING THE GEARBOX SECONDARY SHAFT

Fit the roller bearing cage (10) on the secondary shaft (2); fit the second speed gear (13) and the splined washer (8).
Refit snap ring (7) and insert the sixth speed gear (12).
Refit the snap ring (7).

Fit the splined washer (8), the roller bearing cage (10) and the third speed gear (11).
Fit the roller bearing cage (10), the fourth speed gear (9) and the splined washer (8).
Refit the snap ring (7).

Insert the fifth speed gear (6).
Fit shim (5), roller bearing cage (4) and first speed gear (3).
Refit shim (1) on the secondary shaft.

Reassembling the gearbox assembly
To refit the gearbox components follow the procedure under chapter "Closing the crankcase" relating to the reassembly of the
crankcase.
As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears (B) are equidistant on both
sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
Check also that there is always a small amount of clearance between fork (D) and relative groove (E) on sliding gear (B) when engaging
the gears.
Close the crankcase halves (Closing the crankcase).
Position the gear selector drum flange (6) on the selector drum, centring the slot (F) on the pin (G) and aiming the machined tooth
(which identifies the gearbox "Neutral” position) on the gear interlock ratchet (12).
Apply the indicated product to screw (5) thread.
Start screw (5) of the gear selector drum flange (6).
Tighten screw (5) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm – Max. 28 Nm).
Refit the gear interlock ratchet (Refitting the gear interlock plunger and ratchet).
Refit the primary drive gear (Refitting the primary drive gear and checking backlash).
Refit the starter motor (Refitting the starter motor).
Refit the complete generator (Fitting the flywheel/generator assembly) and the generator side cover (Fitting the generator cover).
Refit the complete cylinder/piston assembly (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Refit the complete cylinder head assembly (Refitting the cylinder heads).
Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the timing layshaft pulley).
Refit the timing belts (Refitting the timing belts).
Removing the generator cover

Remove the front sprocket cover (Removing the front sprocket).
Remove the gear/neutral sensor by following the reference procedure (Gear/neutral sensor).
Remove gearbox con rod (Removing the gear shift).
Disconnect ECU connectors (D).
Loosen screws (15) with washers (16) and remove the ECU assembly (17).
Disconnect the generator connector (E) by removing the retaining ties (Branch 2).
Note
This operation is described for an engine removed from the frame since all reassembly procedures are easier with the engine on the
bench.
Undo the two retaining screws (1) of cover (2) over the end of the crankshaft and collect the relevant gasket.
Loosen screws (3), (4) and special screws (10) that retain the generator cover (8).
Fit tool part no. 88713.1749 on the generator cover (8), fastening it to holes (A).
Turn the tool shaft slowly to separate the cover (8) from the LH crankcase half.
There is a sealing ring (9) on the cover (8) at the gearchange lever shaft that may be damaged when removing the generator cover.
Always check the condition of this sealing ring and replace it if damaged.
Disassembling the generator cover
Undo screws (1) that retain the stator (2).

Remove the stator (2) and the plate (3).
Remove the circlip (4).

Remove the bearing (5) using a universal puller.
If necessary, remove the water pump components (Removing the water pump).
Removing the flywheel/generator assembly

Remove the pump-cylinder hoses (Removing the cylinder/piston assembly).
Remove the generator cover (Removing the generator cover).
Fit tool (A) part no. 88713.3367, as shown in the figure, by starting screws (B) on crankcase half lower holes (C).
Tighten screws (B) to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm - Max. 14.5 Nm).
Drive screws (D) fully home on flywheel, so as to prevent it from rotating.
Unscrew the generator-flywheel retaining nut (1).
Remove tool (A).
Warning
While unscrewing the nut, apply axial pressure to the socket to avoid damage or injury in the event of the wrench suddenly slipping off
the nut.
Remove nut (1), washer (2) and flywheel assembly (3) complete with driven gear (4) from crankshaft.
Remove the inner ring (5), the needle roller bearing cage (6) and the washer (7).
Check the inner ring (5), the needle roller bearing cage (6) and the washer (7) for wear.
Replace if worn.
Overhauling the flywheel/generator assembly
Inspect the inner part of generator rotor (1) for signs of damage.
Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the roller races do not show signs of wear or damage of any kind.
Disassemble the unit if you find faulty operation.
DISASSEMBLING THE FLYWHEEL/GENERATOR ASSEMBLY
Note
Remove the driven gear (2) from starter clutch (7).

Unscrew the screws (4) and remove the generator rotor (1) from the flywheel (3).
Unscrew the screws (5) and remove the flange (6) from the flywheel (3).
Remove starter clutch (7) from flywheel (3).

The starter clutch is a slight interference fit on the flange.
Use a suitable drift to remove it.
REASSEMBLING THE FLYWHEEL/GENERATOR ASSEMBLY
Fit starter clutch (7) in flywheel (3) by taking starter clutch edge (A) fully home on the flywheel (3).
Check that the pre-applied threadlocker is still present on the screws (5). Otherwise, use the indicated product.
Position flange (6) on the flywheel (3) and start the four screws (5).
Tighten the screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Refit generator rotor (1) on flywheel (3) and start screws (4).
Tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 15 Nm), following the sequence shown in the figure.
Apply the indicated product to the race (B) of driven gear (2).
Fit the driven gear (2) on the starter clutch (7), ensuring it is properly seated.
Check that the driven gear (2) can rotate freely in the direction of the green arrow but not in the direction of the red arrow.
If either of these two conditions is not met, this means that the starter clutch (7) has not been fitted correctly (or that parts are non-
conforming).
Note
To help insertion, turn the driven gear in the direction indicated by the "green" arrow.
Fitting the flywheel/generator assembly
Apply the indicated grease on washer (7).

Pre-assemble the roller bearing cage unit (6) with washer (7) and internal race (5).
Install the roller bearing cage (6), washer (7) and inner race (5) assembly on the crankshaft.
Make sure that washer (7) stays in its correct position inside its seat.
Insert the flywheel assembly (3) complete with driven gear (4) inside crankshaft.
Fit the washer (2) on the end of the crankshaft.
Apply the indicated product to the thread (E) of the crankshaft and on nut (1).
Fit tool (A) part no. 88713.3367, as shown in the figure, by starting screws (B) on crankcase half lower holes (C).
Tighten screws (B) to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm - Max. 14.5 Nm).
Drive screws (D) fully home on flywheel, so as to prevent it from rotating.
Start and tighten nut (1) to a torque of 330 Nm (Min. 313 Nm - Max. 346 Nm).
Remove tool (A).
Refit the generator cover (Fitting the generator cover).
Refit the cooling system hose (Refitting cooling system hoses and unions).
Refit the pump-cylinder hoses (Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Fitting the generator cover
Note
Thoroughly clean contact surfaces of generator cover (8) and LH crankcase half (Cleaning and applying the silicone rubber sealant on
work surfaces) and apply an even and continuous bead of sealing compound on generator cover (8) by following the path shown in the
figure.
Warning
An excessive quantity of sealant may cause the internal components of the generator cover to block.
Important
Fit generator cover within five minutes from sealant application.
Refit the centring bushes (11) on LH crankcase half.
Important
All aluminium screws during refitting must be replaced with new ones.
Move generator cover (8) fully home on crankcase.

Start screws (3), (4) and special screws (10) that retain the generator cover (8).
Tighten screws (3), (4) and special screws (10) to the torque indicated below, following the sequence shown in the figure.
- First tightening: 3 ÷ 3.5 Nm;

- Final tightening: 90º;
Apply the indicated product to the sealing ring (9).
Insert seal (9) on driving tool (B) part no. 88700.5749, aiming it as shown in the figure and insert them on gearbox driving shaft.
Fit the seal (9) fully home with tool (C) part no. 88700.5749 in the generator cover (8).
Make sure that the O-ring (12) is installed on the cover (2), as shown in the figure.
Refit cover (2) on generator cover, aiming it as shown in the figure and start screws (1).
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 Nm. - Max. 5.5 Nm).
Reconnect the generator connector (E) by restoring the retaining ties (Branch 2).

Position ECU assembly (17) on airbox and start screws (15).
Reconnect ECU connectors (D).
Refit gearbox con rod (Refitting the gear shift).

Refit the gear/neutral sensor by following the reference procedure (Gear/neutral sensor).
Refit the front sprocket cover (Refitting the front sprocket).
Reassembling the generator cover
Apply the indicated product on the seat (G) of the bearing (5) on the generator cover.
Refit the bearing (5) to generator cover, aiming it with the shielded side opposite to the cover.
Secure the bearing (5) with the circlip (4), ensuring that it is correctly fitted in its seat in the generator cover.
Refit stator inside the generator cover, so that the cable exit point faces downwards and towards the recess.
Start screws (1) on the stator.
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.1 Nm. - Max. 14.9 Nm).
Check that rubber element (A) is correctly inserted in the relevant seat on the generator cover.
Insert the lower tabs (B) of plate (3) in the generator cover grooves (C).
Push plate (3) downwards along the guides having care that the stator cable (D) is correctly positioned under the plate (with the three
cables aligned in order to create as little thickness as possible) until the upper tabs (E) reach the grooves (F).
Push plate outwards with respect to the cover and engage the tabs (E) in the grooves (F) until fully home.
If previously removed, fit the water pump assembly (Refitting the water pump).
Removing outer components

Remove the camshaft assembly (Removing the camshafts).
assembly).
Note
REMOVING THE BLOW-BY VALVE
Loosen the screws (1) and remove flange (2).

Remove the oil breather valve (3) union from the engine.
Remove gasket (4).

Undo screw (8) and remove spacer (9).
Remove reed valve (10).
Loosen screw (5) and remove lower flange (6).

Collect the two O-rings (11).
Check the condition of the two O-rings (11) and replace them if necessary.
REMOVING THE OIL FILTER CARTRIDGE SUPPORT NIPPLE
Remove oil filter cartridge by following the reference procedure (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Loosen and remove the nipple (12).
REMOVING THE CYLINDER/HEAD STUD BOLTS
Remove the cylinder head stud bolts (19) with the aid of an appropriate tool.
REMOVING THE TIMING SENSOR
To remove the timing sensor (15), undo the screw (16) and collect the washer (17).
Check the condition of O-rings (13) on the crankcase and replace them if necessary.
REMOVING THE CLUTCH FLUID FLOWRATE ADJUSTMENT VALVE DOWEL
Loosen nut (21).

Loosen special dowel (23), collect washer (22), spring (26), buffer (24) and ball (25).
Remove seal (28) from special dowel (23).
Refitting the external components
Note
REFITTING THE CLUTCH FLUID FLOWRATE ADJUSTMENT VALVE DOWEL
Insert buffer (24) inside spring (26), until it engages in place.

Insert O-ring (28) in its seat on special dowel (23).
Fit ball (25), spring (26) with buffer (24) and screw special dowel (23) with O-ring (28) on chain-side casing.
Fit washer (22) and screw nut (21) inside special dowel (23), until driving it fully home.
Move special dowel (23) to the indicated position (X) = 4.1 ± 0,5 mm (0.16 ± 0.02 in).
REFITTING THE TIMING SENSOR
Make sure that the O-rings (13) are fitted on the crankcase.
Position rpm sensor (15), fit the washer (17) and start the screw (16).
Tighten the screw (16) to a torque of 10 Nm (min. 9 – max. 11).
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between timing sensor (15) and timing gear (23).
The value must be between 0.6 and 0.8 mm (0.02 and 0.03 in).
REFITTING THE BLOW-BY VALVE
Fit two new O-rings (11) after having lubricated them with the indicated product.
Fit the lower flange (6) on the crankcase and start screw (5).
Fit reed valve (10), spacer (9), and start screw (8).
Tighten the screw (8).
Refit gasket (4) on lower flange, aiming it as shown in the figure.

Position blow-by valve coupling (3), flange (2) on the crankcase and start screws (1).
Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 1.2 Nm (Min. 1 Nm. - Max. 1.4 Nm).
REFITTING THE OIL FILTER CARTRIDGE SUPPORT NIPPLE
Apply the indicated product to the thread of nipple (12).

Start the nipple (12) in the crankcase half.
Tighten nipple (12) to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm).
Refit the oil filter cartridge (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
REFITTING THE CYLINDER/HEAD STUD BOLTS
Now fit the stud bolts (19) on the crankcase halves, applying the indicated product to the thread of stud bolts (19) and tightening to a
torque of 30 Nm (Min. 28 Nm - Max. 32 Nm).
Use the appropriate commercial tool for this operation.

Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners).
Removing the timing gears
Remove the flywheel/generator assembly (Removing the flywheel/generator assembly).
Slide out the driving gear (7) of the timing gear pair (1) and remove the tab (2).
Straighten out the lock washer (3) of nut (4).

Restrain the timing gear by inserting a pin in one of the holes, and unscrew the locking nut (4).
Remove nut (4), washer (3), timing driven gear (6) and tab (5) from the timing layshaft.
Refitting the timing gears
Before reassembling the removed parts, check timing gears for wear. Change, if necessary.
Important
The timing gears must always be replaced as a pair.
Check that tab (5) is present and correctly fitted on the timing layshaft.
Check that tab (2) is present and correctly fitted on the crankshaft.
Refit the driven gear (6) and the driving gear (7) by timing the engraved points as shown in the figure.
Note
Check that, in this position, the horizontal cylinder piston is at TDC.
Apply the indicated product to the nut thread (4).

Fit washer (3) and screw nut (4) on timing layshaft.
Stake washer (3) against nut (4) in such a way as to prevent the nut from working loose.
Refit the flywheel/generator assembly and the generator cover (Refitting the flywheel/generator assembly).
Refit the generator cover (Fitting the generator cover).
Refill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Removing the starter motor idler gear
Slide out the transmission pin (1) with gear (2) and washer (3).
Warning
Be careful when positioning the spacer as it could fall inside the crankcase half.
At this point, it is possible to remove the starter motor (Removing the starter motor).
Refitting the starter motor gear
Insert pin (1) inside starter gear (2).

Insert spacer (3) on pin (1) (crankcase side) and drive it fully home on starter gear (2).
Apply the indicated product to pin (1) threaded end (A).
Fit the starter motor transmission gear assembly (1) on crankcase, as shown in the figure.
Refill the cooling system (Changing the coolant).
Removing the starter motor
Note
Drain the coolant (Checking the coolant level).
Remove the starter motor idler gear (Removing the starter motor idler gear).
Working on the RH side of the motorcycle, remove cap (C), loosen nut (A), collecting washer (B) and slide out the starter motor cable
(1).
Loosen the rear screw (2) retaining the starter motor (4).
Working on the LH side of the motorcycle, loosen the retaining screws (3) and (6).
Remove starter motor (4).
Refitting the starter motor
Visually check the gasket (5) for wear and replace it if necessary.
Fit the starter motor (4) on crankcase, as shown in the figure.
Start the fastening screws (3), and (6) on the starter motor (4).
Tighten the screws (3) and (6) to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm. - Max. 14.5 Nm).
recommended.
Start the rear screw (2) retaining the starter motor (4).
Apply the specified product to nut (A).
Position starter motor cable (1) on starter motor and start nut (A) placing washer (B) in-between.
Tighten nut (A) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%, and refit cap (C).
Important
Fill the protection cap with protective grease before fitting it on the starter motor.
Refit the starter motor idler gear (Refitting the starter motor gear).
Refill the cooling system (Checking the coolant level).
Separating the crankcase halves
Note

Remove the timing pulleys (Disassembling the timing shaft pulleys).
Remove the timing gears (Removing the timing gears).
Remove the water pump (Removing the water pump).
assembly).
Remove the oil filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Remove the gearchange mechanism (Removing the starter motor idler gear).
To better identify the position of each component, the casing has been divided into four areas:
- A) generator side, external part.

- B) generator side, internal part.
- C) clutch side, internal part.
- D) clutch side, external part.
Use a commercial tool to remove the snap ring (1) from the timing layshaft (9) on the clutch-side crankcase half (Side D).
Warning
Take care to avoid scoring the surface of the shaft while removing the snap ring.
Remove the gear selector drum flange (G) (Removing the gearbox unit).
Working on the generator side of the casing (Side A) and the clutch side (Side D) loosen screws (1), (2), (3) and special screw (16).
Reuse the generator cover or a service cover with puller (A) no. 88713.1749 duly fitted.
Secure cover to crankcase half with some of the original screws and begin separation by turning the central pin of the tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox secondary shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Note
Take care not to lose the shim washers on the shafts and on the selector drum.
Working on the crankcase half internal side (Side B) remove the gearbox shafts (6) and the gear selection drum (7) from the crankcase
halves as described in chapter "Removing the gearbox assembly".
Drive out the crankshaft (8) using a plastic mallet, taking care not to lose the snap ring.
Remove the timing layshaft (9).
On both cases, loosen screw (10), remove the lubrication valve (11) and collect the O-ring (12).
Overhauling the crankcase halves
Important
If crankcase halves have to be replaced, they are supplied as a new spare part set.
Warning
When overhauling an engine it is good practice to replace all the crankcase bearings.
Visually inspect the engine crankcase halves.

Check that the surfaces of the crankcase halves are perfectly flat using a reference surface.
Check that the oilways are free of restrictions or clogging.
Check the condition of centring bushes. If apparently distorted or loose in their seats, change them using proper tools.

To replace the main bearings, refer to chapter "Soft link to serviceCode:M(E4).09.091.003 not exists".
GENERATOR SIDE, INTERNAL PART (SIDE B)
SECONDARY SHAFT BEARING (1).

Undo the two retaining screws (2) and recover spacers (3).
Remove the bearing (1).
PRIMARY SHAFT BEARING (4).

Remove the internal ring (5).
Remove the sealing ring (6).
TIMING LAYSHAFT BEARING (7).

SELECTOR DRUM NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING CAGE (10).

Loosen securing screw (11) and collect washer (12).
Slide out the needle roller bearing cage (10).
GEARCHANGE MECHANISM STOP SCREWS (13).

Loosen and remove gearchange mechanism stop screws (13).
GENERATOR SIDE, EXTERNAL PART (SIDE A)
SECONDARY SHAFT OIL SEAL (9).

Remove oil seal (9).
NEEDLE ROLLER BEARINGS (10) FOR SWINGARM SHAFT.
Remove the following components in the following sequence:
- sealing ring (11);

- the two needle roller bearings (10);
- snap ring (12).
CLUTCH SIDE, INTERNAL PART (SIDE C)
Undo the two retaining screws (15) and recover spacers (16).
Remove bearing (14) and tab (17).
Remove the internal ring (19).

GEARBOX DRUM BEARING (22).

Undo the two retaining screws (23) and recover washers (24).
CLUTCH SIDE, EXTERNAL PART (SIDE D)

Remove the following components in the following sequence:

- the two needle roller bearings (22);
- snap ring (24).
TIMING SHAFT SEAL RING (26).
Remove the sealing ring (26).

Reassembling the crankcase halves

The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean.

The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and free from burrs.
To fit the bearings we recommend heating up the casings to a temperature between 95 °C and 110 °C.
Note
Bearings do not have a specific mounting position (except main bearings), however it is good practice to install the bearings so that the
written side is facing inwards.
GENERATOR SIDE, INTERNAL PART (SIDE B)
GEARCHANGE MECHANISM STOP SCREWS (13).

Start and tighten screws (13) to a torque of 22 Nm (Min. 20– Max. 24).
SELECTOR DRUM NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING CAGE (10).

Apply the indicated lubricant to the needle roller bearing cage (10).
Fit the needle roller bearing cage (10) in the crankcase half.
Start screw (11) on the casing.
Tighten screw (11) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9– 11).

Insert bearing (1) in the crankcase half with the marks facing up.
Fit spacers (3) onto screws (2).
Start screws (2) on the casing.
Tighten screws (2) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 – Max. 11).

Fit the oil seal (6) by respecting the values indicated in the figure.
Fit the internal ring (5) in the bearing (4).
Important
While heating the casing, if the seal ring is heated to a temperature above 120 °C loses its properties.
Apply indicated product on the bearing (4).

Fit bearing (7) and fix it with snap ring (8).

Note
The closed side of the plastic cage must be facing towards the crankcase half.
GENERATOR SIDE, EXTERNAL PART (SIDE A)
SECONDARY SHAFT OIL SEAL (9).
Apply the indicated product to oil seal (9).

Fit the oil seal (9) by respecting value (X) 88 ± 0.2 mm (3.46 ± 0.008 in), as shown in the figure.
Fit snap ring (12) inside its seat of crankcase half.

Apply the indicated product on crankcase housing.
Insert seal (11) by driving it fully home on snap ring (12), and aiming it as shown in the figure.
Insert the two needle roller bearings (10) driving them fully home on seal (11) and aiming them so that the sides with marks (A) are
positioned as shown in the figure.
Insert seal (11) by driving it fully home on needle roller bearing (10), aiming it as shown in the figure.
CLUTCH SIDE, INTERNAL PART (SIDE C)
GEARBOX DRUM BEARING (22).

Fit bearing (22) in the crankcase half.

Insert bearing (14) with the marks facing up. Fit tab (17) in the groove on the crankcase.
Fit spacers (16) onto screws (15).

Apply indicated product on the bearing (18). Fit ring (19) in bearing (18) with the marks facing up.
Fit the internal ring (19) in the bearing (18).
Fit bearing (20) and fix it with snap ring (21).

CLUTCH SIDE, EXTERNAL PART (SIDE D)
Fit snap ring (24) inside its seat of crankcase half.

Apply the indicated product on crankcase housing.
Insert seal (23) by driving it fully home on snap ring (24), and aiming it as shown in the figure.
Insert the two needle roller bearings (22) driving them fully home on seal (23) and aiming them so that the sides with marks (A) are
positioned as shown in the figure.
Insert seal (23) by driving it fully home on needle roller bearing (22), aiming it as shown in the figure.
TIMING SHAFT SEAL RING (26).
Apply the indicated product to the sealing ring (26).
Fit seal ring (26) by respecting the indicated values (X) 69.2 ± 0.2 mm (2.72 ± 0.008 in).
Closing the crankcase
Thoroughly clean the crankcase half contact surfaces ("Cleaning and Applying the silicone rubber sealant on work surfaces").
If previously removed, fit the lubrication valves (11).

Install the O-ring (12) in its seat in the crankcase half.
Apply the specified product to screw (10).
Start the screw (10) on the lubrication valve (11).
Repeat the operations described above with the other valve.
If previously removed, apply the indicated threadlocker to dowel thread (46) and tighten to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22
Nm).
Check that the two centring bushes (30) are correctly fitted.
The gearbox assembly inner races (41) of gearbox shafts end bearings are fitted in the bearings themselves.
Note
When refitting used components, before installing the gearbox assembly in the crankcase half, make sure that the inner races of the
gearbox shaft end bearings are fitted into the correct bearings and have not been left on the shafts.
Ensure that the corresponding shim (14) is preassembled to gearbox primary shaft.
Couple the gears of the two shafts (4) and insert them in the relevant seats in the generator-side casing.
Check the gearbox shafts movement.
Apply the specified product on the surface (A) of the selector drum (5) and on the diameter (B) of the magnet holder (15), ensuring that
the product is distributed all around the pin.
Insert magnet holder (15) on selector drum (5), driving it fully home.
Remove any excess product between the magnet holder (15) and the selector drum (5).
Important
Assemble the magnet holder within 5 minutes form sealant application. Wait 15 minutes for complete curing of the product.
Warning
Installation is correct when the sealant (X) is visible around the entire circumference of the contact surface between the magnet holder
and the selector drum, as shown in the figure.
Insert the forks of 1st - 4th and 2nd - 3rd speed (42) inside the sliding grooves of the secondary shaft driven gears.
Insert the fork of 5th - 6th speed (43) inside the primary shaft driven gear.
Insert the pins (44) in the gearbox forks.
Apply the specified product in the area (C) of the selector drum (5).
Install selector drum (5) on casing, aiming it as shown in the figure.
Apply the specified product in the areas (D) of gearbox shafts.

Ensure that shim (18) is preassembled on the secondary shaft.
Insert pins (E) of forks (42) and (43) in their seats on selector drum (5).
Turn selector drum (5) to help this procedure.
Drive both pins fully home.
Check the gearbox shafts movement.
Apply the specified product to the crankshaft (8), in the areas indicated in the figure.
Fit crankshaft (8) inside generator-side casing, positioning connecting rods (F) in the relevant seats of the cylinders.
Fit the timing layshaft (9) into the generator-side casing.
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods are correctly positioned in the relevant cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning of the connecting rods at
this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase halves.
Fit the O-ring (17) after having lubricated it with the indicated product.
Apply an even and continuous bead of sealing compound to clutch-side casing mating surface respecting the path shown in the figure.
Warning
An excessive quantity of sealant may cause the internal components of the casings to block.
Important
Match the casings together within five minutes from sealant application.
Bring the crankcase halves (20) and (21) together, tapping with a rubber mallet in the area of the shafts if necessary.
Check that the sealing ring (F) is correctly positioned in relation to the timing layshaft (9) and that the inner lip has not come out.
Fit the snap ring (1) in the groove on the timing layshaft (9).
Ref. Q.ty Description Notes
1 7 screws M8 x 75 mm GREASE B
2 2 screws M6 x 75 mm
3 7 screws M6 x 35 mm
16 1 special screw M6 x 35 mm

Start screws (1) on generator-side casing (12).
Pre-tighten screws (1) at first to a snug torque of 19 Nm (Min. 17 Nm - Max. 21 Nm), following the indicated sequence.

Start the screws (1) on the clutch-side casing (13).
Pre-tighten screws (1) at first to a snug torque of 19 Nm (Min. 17 Nm - Max. 21 Nm), following the indicated sequence.
Working on clutch-side casing (13), tighten screws (1) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm), following the indicated
sequence.
Working on generator-side casing (12), tighten screws (1) to a torque of 25 Nm (Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm), following the indicated
sequence.
Tighten screws (2), (3) and special screw (16) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm), following the indicated sequence.
Working on the crankcase half clutch side, refit the gear selector drum flange (G) (Reassembling the gearbox assembly).
If previously removed, apply the indicated product on dowel thread (17), and tighten it to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm).
During this operation, respect the indicated value (F): 1 ± 0.2 mm (0.0393 ± 0.0078 in).
If removed, refit nipples (47) on clutch side crankcase half, after positioning gaskets (48).
Apply the indicated product on the thread of nipples and tighten them to a torque of 32 Nm (Min. 29 Nm ÷Max. 35 Nm).
Refit the gearchange mechanism (Refitting the gearchange mechanism).
Refit the oil filter (Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Refit the water pump (Refitting the water pump).
Refit the timing gear (Refitting the timing gears).
Refit the timing pulleys (Refitting the cylinder head pulleys/fixed tensioners).
Main bearing shells

assembly).
Remove the gearchange mechanism (Removing the gearchange mechanism).
Separate the crankcase halves (Separating the crankcase halves)
Important
Always order the crankshaft and con-rod part numbers with the same weight selection.
Note
Two different types of con-rods can be fitted on this engine depending on whether the supplier is MAPE or SANSERA.
To distinguish between the two types of con-rod, check whether or not the centring pins are present between the shank and the cap.
• Sansera con-rods do not have centring pins;

• MAPE con-rods have two centring pins.
Below is the “visual” difference between the two con-rod types (4).
SANSERA con-rod
It does not feature centring pins between shank and cap.

MAPE con-rod
It features centring pins between shank and cap.
Remove the crankshaft bearing shells (14) and (15) using tool (A) part no. 88713.4145, set drift inside the casing and the cap on the
outside.
Tighten screw (B) fully home.
Loosen screw (B) and remove main bearing shells (28) from tool.
Crankshaft is supplied in classes ranging from "0" to "D"
Select the bearing shells according to crankshaft and crankcase punching, as follows:
Number Pin identification
1 Clutch side journal for the main bearings
2 Generator side journal for the main bearings
3 Crank pin
Depending on the type of supplier, the con-rod markings are positioned at point (D) as shown in the figure.
SANSERA
MAPE

CRANK PIN SIZE [mm]
A 44.992÷45.000 (1.7713 ÷ 48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷

C PURPLE
1.7716 in) 1.9680 in) 0.0785 in)

CRANK PIN SIZE [mm]
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷

D PURPLE
1.9289 in) 0.0785 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷

C RED
1.9680 in) 0.0787 in)
44.984÷44.992 (1.7710 ÷
B
1.7713 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷
D RED
1.9289 in) 0.0787 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷

C BLUE
1.9286 in) 0.0788 in)
44.976÷44.984 (1.7707 ÷
C
1.7710 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷
D BLUE
1.9289 in) 0.0788 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷

C YELLOW
1.9286 in) 0.0790 in)
44.968÷44.976 (1.7703 ÷
D
1.7707 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷
D YELLOW
1.9289 in) 0.0790 in)
SANSERA CON-ROD

45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.478÷1.483/1.482÷1.487 (0.0581 ÷

A RED/BLUE
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0583 / 0.0583 ÷ 0.0585)
41.996÷42.004 (1.6533
A
÷ 1.6537 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B RED 1.478÷1.483 (0.0581 ÷ 0.0583 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷

A BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
41.988÷41.996 (1.6530
B
÷ 1.6537 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLUE 1.482÷1.487 (0.0583 ÷ 0.0585 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.486÷1.491/1.490÷1.495 (0.0585 ÷

A YELLOW/BLACK
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0587 / 0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
41.980÷41.988 (1.6527
C
÷ 1.6530 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B YELLOW 1.486÷1.491 (0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.490÷1.495/1.494÷1.499 (0.0586 ÷

A BLACK/GREEN
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0588 / 0.0588 ÷ 0.0590 in)
41.972÷41.980 (1.6524
D
÷ 1.6527 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLACK 1.490÷1.495 (0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)

SANSERA CON-ROD


CRANK PIN SIZE [mm]
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷

C -
1.9680 in) 0.0785 in)
44.992÷45.000 (1.7713 ÷
A
1.7716 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷
D -
1.9289 in) 0.0785 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷

C RED
1.9680 in) 0.0787 in)
44.984÷44.992 (1.7710 ÷
B
1.7713 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷
D RED
1.9289 in) 0.0787 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷

C BLUE
1.9286 in) 0.0788 in)
44.976÷44.984 (1.7707 ÷
C
1.7710 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷
D BLUE
1.9289 in) 0.0788 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷

C YELLOW
1.9286 in) 0.0790 in)
44.968÷44.976 (1.7703 ÷
D
1.7707 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷
D YELLOW
1.9289 in) 0.0790 in)
MAPE CON-ROD

45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.478÷1.483/1.482÷1.487 (0.0581 ÷

A RED/BLUE
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0583 / 0.0583 ÷ 0.0585)
42.004÷42.012 (1.6537
0
÷ 1.6540 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B RED 1.478÷1.483 (0.0581 ÷ 0.0583 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷

A BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
41.996 ÷ 42.004
A
(1.6533 ÷ 1.6537 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLUE 1.482÷1.487 (0.0583 ÷ 0.0585 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
B 41.988 ÷ 41,996 45.019÷45.025 (1.7724

A YELLOW/ 1.486÷1.491 (0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
(1.6530 ÷ 1.6533 in) ÷ 1.7726 in)
MAPE CON-ROD

45.013÷45.019 (1.7721 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷

B BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.7724 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724
A BLACK 1.490÷1.495 (0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
÷ 1.7726 in)
41.980 ÷ 41.988
C
(1.6527 ÷ 1.6530 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721 1.486÷1.491 / 1.490÷1.495 (0.0585 -
B YELLOW/BLACK
÷ 1.7724 in) 0.0587 / 0.0586 - 0.0588 in)
Position the new main bearing shells (14) and (15) in the drift of tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 and insert bushing (C) fully home.
Smear tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 with engine oil.

Fit the main bearing shells using the tool drift part no. (A) 88713.4145 and positioning the shell parting line at a right angle to cylinder
centreline, as shown.
Drive screw (B) fully home.
Remove tool (A) part no. 88713.4145 and check that the main bearing shells (28) have been correctly fitted.
Refit the components in the reverse order of removal.

Removing the connecting rod assembly

assembly).
After separating the crankcase halves, remove the crankshaft (1) complete with connecting rods (2).
Disassembling the connecting rod assembly

assembly).
Remove the connecting rod assembly from the crankcase halves (Removing the connecting rod assembly).
To disassemble the connecting rod assembly, loosen screws (3) and separate connecting rods (2) from crankshaft (1).
Important
Take care not to mix up components of different connecting rods and maintain the original orientation.
Overhauling the connecting rod assembly

assembly).
Remove the connecting rod assembly from the crankcase halves (Removing the connecting rod assembly).
Disassemble the connecting rod assembly (Disassembling the connecting rod assembly)
Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods:
- clearance with gudgeon pin upon fitting.
In case of excessive wear, replace the connecting rod. The small end bush must be in good condition and firmly driven into its seat.
Check the parallelism error measured at 100 mm (3.94 in) from the connecting rod longitudinal axis:
it must be H-h lower than 0.02 mm (0.00078 in) (H standard height when new is 122.5 mm (4.82 in)); change the con-rod if it is not so.
Connecting rod big-end diameter must be within the specified limits.
It is preferable to use crankshafts and connecting rods of the same size class.
REPLACING CON-ROD BIG END BEARINGS
It is good practice to replace the bearings (4) each time the engine is overhauled.
Spare bearings are supplied ready for fitting and they must not be reworked with scrapers or emery cloth.
Note

SANSERA con-rod
MAPE con-rod
The bearings are comprised of an external steel ring, the inner face of which is electroplated with a lead-based compound.
OVERHAULING THE CRANKSHAFT
The journals for main bearings (A) and crank pin (B) should not be scored or grooved.
The threads, keyways, and slots must be in good condition.
Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder.
Fillet radius on journals for main bearings: 1.5 mm (0.0591 in).
Fillet radius on crank pin: 3 mm (0.1181 in).
Use a micrometer to measure oval and taper of the crank pin. Measure oval and taper in several different directions.
Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by positioning the crankshaft between two centres.
To carry out this operation, use a heat gun able to reach 150 °C.
Loosen the plug (4) of the crankshaft, heating the latter, if necessary, to remove the sealant applied upon assembly.
Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any residues that may have
accumulated and may be restricting the oil flow.
Apply the indicated product and tighten the dowels (5) and the special screw (6) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 15 Nm).
Apply the indicated product and tighten plug (4) M20x1 to a torque of 50 Nm (Min. 45 Nm - Max. 55 Nm).
Warning
Do not chamfer plug after assembly.
Reassembling the connecting rod assembly
Important
Always order the crankshaft and con-rod part numbers with the same weight selection.
Note

Below is the “visual” difference between the two con-rod types.
SANSERA con-rod
It does not feature centring pins between shank and cap.

MAPE con-rod
It features centring pins between shank and cap.
Note
Use the following tables for correct crankshaft and con-rod assembly.

CRANK PIN SIZE [mm]

CRANK PIN SIZE [mm]
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷

C PURPLE
1.9680 in) 0.0785 in)
44.992÷45.000 (1.7713 ÷
A
1.7716 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷
D PURPLE
1.9289 in) 0.0785 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷

C RED
1.9680 in) 0.0787 in)
44.984÷44.992 (1.7710 ÷
B
1.7713 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷
D RED
1.9289 in) 0.0787 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷

C BLUE
1.9286 in) 0.0788 in)
44.976÷44.984 (1.7707 ÷
C
1.7710 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷
D BLUE
1.9289 in) 0.0788 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷

C YELLOW
1.9286 in) 0.0790 in)
44.968÷44.976 (1.7703 ÷
D
1.7707 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷
D YELLOW
1.9289 in) 0.0790 in)
SANSERA CON-ROD

45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.478÷1.483/1.482÷1.487 (0.0581 ÷

A RED/BLUE
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0583 / 0.0583 ÷ 0.0585)
41.996÷42.004 (1.6533
A
÷ 1.6537 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B RED 1.478÷1.483 (0.0581 ÷ 0.0583 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷

A BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
41.988÷41.996 (1.6530
B
÷ 1.6537 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLUE 1.482÷1.487 (0.0583 ÷ 0.0585 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.486÷1.491/1.490÷1.495 (0.0585 ÷

A YELLOW/BLACK
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0587 / 0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
41.980÷41.988 (1.6527
C
÷ 1.6530 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B YELLOW 1.486÷1.491 (0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.490÷1.495/1.494÷1.499 (0.0586 ÷

A BLACK/GREEN
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0588 / 0.0588 ÷ 0.0590 in)
41.972÷41.980 (1.6524
D
÷ 1.6527 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLACK 1.490÷1.495 (0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
SANSERA CON-ROD


CRANK PIN SIZE [mm]
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷

C -
1.9680 in) 0.0785 in)
44.992÷45.000 (1.7713 ÷
A
1.7716 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.990÷1.995 (0.0783 ÷
D -
1.9289 in) 0.0785 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷

C RED
1.9680 in) 0.0787 in)
44.984÷44.992 (1.7710 ÷
B
1.7713 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.994÷1.999 (0.0785 ÷
D RED
1.9289 in) 0.0787 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷

C BLUE
1.9286 in) 0.0788 in)
44.976÷44.984 (1.7707 ÷
C
1.7710 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 1.998÷2.003 (0.0786 ÷
D BLUE
1.9289 in) 0.0788 in)
48.980÷48.988 (1.9283 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷

C YELLOW
1.9286 in) 0.0790 in)
44.968÷44.976 (1.7703 ÷
D
1.7707 in)
48.988÷48.996 (1.9286 ÷ 2.002÷2.007 (0.0788 ÷
D YELLOW
1.9289 in) 0.0790 in)
MAPE CON-ROD

45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.478÷1.483/1.482÷1.487 (0.0581 ÷

A RED/BLUE
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0583 / 0.0583 ÷ 0.0585)
42.004÷42.012 (1.6537
0
÷ 1.6540 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B RED 1.478÷1.483 (0.0581 ÷ 0.0583 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷

A BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.7726 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
41.996 ÷ 42.004
A
(1.6533 ÷ 1.6537 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721
B BLUE 1.482÷1.487 (0.0583 ÷ 0.0585 in)
÷ 1.7724 in)
MAPE CON-ROD

45.019÷45.025 (1.7724
A YELLOW/ 1.486÷1.491 (0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
÷ 1.7726 in)
41.988 ÷ 41,996
B
(1.6530 ÷ 1.6533 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721 1.482÷1.487/1.486÷1.491 (0.0583 ÷
B BLUE/YELLOW
÷ 1.7724 in) 0.0585 / 0.0585 ÷ 0.0587 in)
45.019÷45.025 (1.7724
A BLACK 1.490÷1.495 (0.0586 ÷ 0.0588 in)
÷ 1.7726 in)
41.980 ÷ 41.988
C
(1.6527 ÷ 1.6530 in)
45.013÷45.019 (1.7721 1.486÷1.491 / 1.490÷1.495 (0.0585 -
B YELLOW/BLACK
÷ 1.7724 in) 0.0587 / 0.0586 - 0.0588 in)
After overhauling the connecting rod assembly (Overhauling the connecting rod assembly)
Before starting, check that the crankshaft main bearing and big-end journals are free of burrs or evident signs of machining: if necessary,
clean the surfaces with very fine emery cloth and oil.
Check that the grooves are in perfect condition with no signs of forcing.
Thoroughly clean the crank pin (7) on the crankshaft (1) and lubricate it with specified product.
Proceed as follows for correct crankshaft/con-rod coupling:
WEIGHT CLASS CHECK
Important
The crankshaft and con-rod must always have the same weight class.
Check the stamping on the crankshaft and con-rod at points (A) and (B) as shown in the figure, the stamping must be the same.
SANSERA
MAPE
Contrary to the SANSERA con-rod, the MAPE con-rod weight class is not marked with a number but with colours, according to the
following layout:
Numerical identification on crankshaft Colour identification on con-rod
1 Blue
2 Yellow
3 Green
Numerical identification on crankshaft Colour identification on con-rod
4 Red
5 White
6 Black
DIAMETER CHECK
Once the weight class has been identified, check the crankshaft and con-rod diameters.
Always use the tables at the beginning of this chapter to select the bearings.
The crankshaft markings are positioned on one side at point (C) and are identified by three numbers and three letters.
Number Pin identification
1 Clutch side journal for the main bearings
2 Generator side journal for the main bearings
3 Crank pin
Depending on the type of supplier, the con-rod markings are positioned at point (D) as shown in the figure.
SANSERA
MAPE
ASSEMBLY
Proceed with the assembly after identifying the couplings.
Insert the bearing shells (4) in the connecting rod seats matching the tooth (H) of the bearings with the corresponding marks on the
connecting rod cap (F) and on the connecting rod small end (G). It is essential that the tooth (H) adheres perfectly to its own seat.
Apply the indicated product to bearing shells (4) fitted on shank.
Fit connecting rods inside crankshaft.

Join the connecting rod cap (F) with the corresponding connecting rod small end (G), ensuring that the laser marking (M) of the
progressive number stamped on the two pieces is the same, as shown in the figure.
Warning
The grease utilised is irritant in contact with the skin; wear protective gloves.
Important
Lubrication of con-rod bolts is essential to obtain the correct coupling and to prevent breakage of the parts.
COUPLING THE BIG-END BEARINGS-CRANK PIN
In order to correctly couple big-end bearings and crank pin, proceed as follows:
- apply a strip (A) of GREEN "Plastigauge PG-1" to the crank pin;

- fit the connecting rod and the original big-end bearings.
Tightening procedure
Tighten the connecting rod bolts (Class 14.9) as described below:
- Apply the specified product to screws (3) thread and underhead.

- Tighten to 35 Nm.
- Snug torque to 20 Nm.
- Tighten to 105°±1°.
- Torque check 80÷110 Nm.
Continue the coupling procedure as described below:
- loosen the screws and remove the connecting rod;

- check the thickness of the strip of "GREEN Plastigauge PG-1" (A), using the suitable reference scale (B);
- the thickness measured with scale (B) represents the actual clearance: if it is not within the specified limits (Crankshaft), it is
necessary to replace the big end bearings or the crankshaft and repeat the procedure;
- If the clearance value complies with the established limits, carefully remove the strip of "GREEN Plastigauge PG-1" (A) from the
crankshaft and repeat the tightening procedure as described.
Tighten the screws (3) fully home by hand.
If this proves difficult or if the screws jam, undo them and lubricate them again.
Remove any excess grease. Tighten the screw by hand until the head seats against the connecting rod.
Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin (L) to align the connecting rods.
Using a feeler gauge (S) make a first con-rod shimming, then place the fork feeler gauge (T) of tool part no. 88765.1000 (thickness 0.1
mm (0.0039 in)), part no. 88765.1005 (thickness 0.2 mm (0.0079 in)) or part no. 88765.1006 (thickness 0.3 mm (0.0118 in)) between the
con-rods to eliminate the end float.
Using a torque wrench as shown in the figure, tighten screws (3) to the values specified here below:
- Tighten to 35 Nm.
- Tighten to 105°±1°.
- Torque check 80÷110 Nm.
Remove the feeler gauge and check that connecting rods/crankshaft end float is: 0.15 ÷ 0.30 mm (0.0059 in ÷ 0.0118 in).
Refit the con-rod assembly on the crankcase halves (Refitting the con-rod assembly).
Refit starter motor driven gear (Refitting the starter motor gear).
Refitting the connecting rod assembly
Install the complete connecting rod assembly inside crankcase half and proceed to shimming.
Make sure that the connecting rods (2) are correctly positioned in the relevant cylinder seats.
Incorrect positioning of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase halves.

Refit starter motor driven gear (Refitting the starter motor gear).
4
5 6 7 8 9 10
1 2 3
11
12
49
48
13
52 53 54 55
47 51 50
14
46
45
56
44
59 58 57
43
60
15
16
17
42
41
40
39 18
20 19
38
26 25 22 21
24 23
Monster 937 / Monster 937 + 37
36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27
Injection /electric system diagram key
1) Inertial sensor (IMU) 38) Left-hand switch P Pink
2) Immobilizer antenna 39) LH heated handgrip
3) Ignition switch 40) Front left turn indicator
4) Vehicle ground 41) Clutch switch
5) Vehicle positive 42) Instrument panel
6) Relay positive 43) Front brake switch
7) Starter relay 44) Front right turn indicator
8) Fan 45) RH heated handgrip
9) Generator 46) Right-hand switch
10) Regulator 47) Headlight
11) USB socket 48) Horn
12) DDS 3 diagnostic socket 49) Ambient air temperature
13) Tail light 50) Fuse box 1
14) Rear right turn indicator 51) Fuse box 2
15) Rear left turn indicator 52) Black Box System (BBS)
16) Number plate light 53) Front speed sensor
17) Bluetooth 54) ABS control unit
18) Alarm 55) Rear speed sensor
19) Rear brake switch 56) Fuel pump
20) Secondary air valve 57) Starter relay
21) Vertical oxygen sensor 58) Fuel pump relay
22) Horizontal oxygen sensor 59) ECU main relay
23) Vertical coil 60) Ride by Wire
24) Horizontal coil
25) Pick up
26) Quick Shift (DQS) Wire colour coding
27) Gear sensor B Blue
28) Purge Valve W White
29) Engine temperature V Violet
30) vertical Map sensor Bk Black
31) Horizontal Map sensor Y Yellow
32) Air temperature R Red
33) Side stand switch Lb Light blue
34) Throttle body potentiometer (ETV) motor Gr Grey
35) Vertical injector G Green
36) Horizontal injector Bn Brown
37) Oil pressure sensor O Orange
Check List for
Scheduled Maintenance
Customer Name: Model: Plate number:
Frame number (VIN): Registration date: Mileage:
Current date: Work Order Number: Service type:
Scheduled Maintenance Check List for Monster family

Check the boxes close to the performed service operations
Annual Service *
Performed
Replaced
Desmo Service *
Oil Service *
First Service 1000*
Reading of the error memory with DDS 3.0 and check of technical updates and recall campaigns on DCS 12
Change engine oil and filter 12**
Check and clean air filter 12
Change air filter
Change timing belts 60
Check and/or adjust valve clearance (Monster with 2-valve engine only)
Check and/or adjust valve clearance (Monster with 4-valve engine only)
Replace spark plugs
Replace spark plugs (Monster 821 only)
Change coolant (where present) 48
Change front fork fluid ***
Visually check the front fork and rear shock absorber seals 12
Check brake and clutch fluid level (where present) 12
Change brake and clutch fluid (where present) 24
Check front and rear brake disc and pad wear 12
Check the proper tightening of front and rear brake calliper screws and front brake disc screws 12
Check the tightening of the rear brake disc screws (with removal of rear wheel shaft if rear brake disc screws with hexagon
wrench flat are present)
Check front and rear wheel nuts and rear sprocket nut tightening 12
Check frame-to-engine, frame-to-swinging arm and frame-to-rear shock absorber fasteners tightening 12
Check the wheel hub bearings 12
Check silentblocs on rear sprocket and lubricate the rear wheel shaft
Check chain, rear sprocket and sprocket wear and check final drive chain tension, lubrication and stretch.
Measured stretch value:________ (cm) 12
NOTE: It is recommended to change the final drive chain kit within 20,000 km/12,000 mi.
Check steering tube bearing clearance 12

Check the freedom of movement and tightening of the side stand 12
Check that all gaiters and visible hoses (i.e. fuel, brake and clutch, cooling system, bleed, drain hoses, etc.) are not cracked,
12
are tight and properly housed
Check rear brake lever free play and handlebar lever and pedal control lubrication 12
Check cable clutch lever free play (where installed) 12
Check tyre pressure and wear 12
Check the operation of all electric safety devices (side stand and clutch sensor, front and rear brake switch, engine stop switch,
12
Check lighting devices, turn indicators, horn and controls operation 12
Final test and road test of the motorcycle, testing safety devices (e.g. ABS and DTC), electric fans and idling 12
Visually check the coolant level and circuit for damage (where present) 12
Softly clean the motorcycle 12
Service coupon registration with turning off of Service warning light on instrument panel with DDS 3.0 and filling in of the on-
12
board documentation (Service Booklet)
* The First Service 1000 must be performed after the first 1,000 km/600 mi.
The Oil Service must be performed every 12,000 km/7,500 mi for Monster 696/Monster 795/Monster 796/Monster 797/Monster 1100 model versions and every 15,000 km/9,000 mi for Monster/Monster 821/Monster 1200 model versions.
The DESMO SERVICE must be performed every 24,000 km/15,000 mi for Monster 696/Monster 795/Monster 796/Monster 797/Monster 1100 model versions and every 30,000km/18,000 mi for Monster/Monster 821/Monster 1200 model versions.
The Time Service must be performed every 12 months.
**Every 24 months for Monster model.
*** Every 36,000 km/22,500 mi for Monster 696/Monster 795/Monster 796/Monster 797/Monster 1100 model versions and every 45,000 km/27,000 mi for Monster/Monster 821/Monster 1200 model versions.
NOTE: For Monster 696, Monster 795, Monster 796 and Monster 1100 models, in case of DESMO SERVICE , the OIL SERVICE must be performed as well.
Thank you! Your Ducati Technician: Ed.03/2021

2022 2023 Ducati Monster 937 Plus

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Symbols - Abbreviations - References

Symbol Specifications Recommended

LOCK 1 Low-strength threadlocker. Loctite 222

LOCK 3 High-strength threadlocker for threaded parts. Loctite 270

LOCK 9 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 406

LOCK 11 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401

OTHER SEALING AGENTS

DUCATI sealing compound. THREE BOND 1215

Sealing compound THREE BOND 1207B

One-component sealing compound SIKAFLEX 221

Sealing compound. BOSTIK clear universal

Sealing compound. Ser Sil Silver

GREASE Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania R3

GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB 05

GREASE Grease (Vehicle): OPTIMOL -

GREASE Grease PANKL - PLB07

GREASE Grease KLÜBER STABURAGS

GREASE Copper grease CUPRUM 320

GREASE Grease FLUOROCARBON GEL

GREASE Grease ROCOL — DRY MOLY

GREASE Grease AKRAPOVIC —

LUBRICANT FOR RUBBER PARTS

Emulsion for lubrication of rubber. P 80

Concentrated lubricant for tyre installation. Michelin

Denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol

Protection lubricant emulsion. KLUBERPLUS S

Thermal compound. HTC Electrolube

LUBRICANTS FOR MECHANICAL ELEMENTS

Dry lubricant, polymerising on contact with air. Molykote D321R

Lubricant for mechanical elements. Rothen extra - Additive

Lubricant for mechanical elements. Castor oil

All-purpose degreaser and cleaner. Arexons Fulcron

Degreasing agent. Lochim Solfast

Degreasing agent. Deta Blu

Degreasing agent. Saga Special

DOT4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL Advance Brake

Acronyms and abbreviations used in the manual

Ducati Traction Control (DTC)

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)

Ride by Wire (RbW)

Used engine oil

General advice on repair work

DATA STAMPED ON THE FRAME

Monster ZDMMAMDT? ZDM1M00T?

DMT - DAFRA Model/Version EEC THAI CHN

Monster ML01M00AA#T ML01M00AA#T ML01TBFT?#T??????

Monster PLUS ML01M00AA#T ML01M00AA#T ML01TBFT?#T??????

ZDM 1M00AA N B ??????

DATA STAMPED ON ENGINE

Model/Version ESP 70 ESP 35

ZDM ZDM ZDM ZDM

ZDM ZDM ZDM ZDM

DMT - DAFRA Model/Version EEC THAI CHN

ZDM or ML0 T 937W4N ??????

Headlight fairing height - 1076 mm (42.36 in) 1056 mm (42.36 in)

Reference Technical specifications

Type Aluminium alloy Front Frame

Steering head angle 24°

Steering angle (per side) 36° LH side / 36° RH side

Trail 93 mm (3.66 in)