UNDERSTANDING

A SEWING
PATTERN
THE PATTERN ENVELOPE
(FRONT)
• On the front of the pattern
envelope, there are several style
variations of the same project. These
style variations are called views.
– One view may have a collar, long
sleeves, and cuffs. Another view may
have a V-neck and short sleeves.
• These give you style options for this
particular pattern.
 THE PATTERN ENVELOPE
(BACK)
• Contains information on:
– Project in detail.
– Description of the project by
view.
– How much fabric to buy, what
fabric to buy.
– One way designs- words,
pictures, elephants
– Notions- buttons (size), zippers
(length), elastic, snaps, hook and
eyes, etc.
INSIDE THE PATTERN
ENVELOPE

• Pattern pieces
• Key and glossary
• Pattern layout
• Step By Step
instructions or guide
sheet
CUTTING LINES FOR
DIFFERENT SIZES
• A multi-sized sewing patterns will
have the cutting lines for different
sized pattern pieces nested within
each other.
• The different sizes are usually
differentiated by different styles of
dashed lines.
• Pick out the lines that match your
size – you may find it helpful to draw
over them in a colored pen.
• These are the lines you should be
cutting to get your pattern pieces.
 CUTTING YOUR PATTERN
PIECES
• Accurately laying out a sewing pattern
is an essential part of constructing any
project.
• Check the guide sheet to see which
pattern pieces you need for the view
you have chosen.
– Make sure you cut the piece correctly
and not cut off the marker points.
• Press the paper or tissue pattern
pieces with a warm, dry iron.
GRAINLINE
• a long, double-pointed arrow across
your pattern pieces that indicated
the grainline (lengthwise thread
direction) of the fabric. Grainline is
there to help. Line up grainline
parallel to the selvedge
(lengthwise).
• Indicates the placement of pattern
piece on the fabric grain. Grain line
must be placed exactly parallel to
the selvage.
• Selvage is the fabric edge that will
not ravel or fray.
• May be indicated by a straight line
labeled grain line.
GRAIN AND BIAS
• Lengthwise Grain- "Straight of Grain“
– The yarns on the fabric that are PARALLEL to the SELVAGE EDGE

• Crosswise Grain
– The yarns of the fabric that are PERPENDICULAR to theSELVAGE
EDGE
ON THE FOLD…
• This indicates that you need
to line up the cutting line to
the arrow that is pointing to
the folded edge of your
fabric before cutting it out.
• The pattern piece only
represents half the fabric
piece, so placing it on the
fold means you'll end up
with one symmetrical whole
piece.
LAYING OUT FABRIC
• The pattern will advise how to lay out your
pattern on your fabric.
NAP FABRIC
• A fabric that has a raised surface.
• If you rub your hand on it one direction, it will look different than if you rub your
hand the other direction.
• A fabric that has a print that all the symbols or characters going the same direction.
If they are flipped, they will be upside down. Pattern pieces must all be placed going
the same direction.
• All pattern pieces must be laid out and cut out going the same direction.

Directional Design
One-Direction Layout
for Nap Fabric Or Directional
Print fabric.
 SELVAGE OR SELVEDGE EDGE
• The un-cut edge of the fabric, that does not fray. It usually has a symbol, or
unique marking, but not always.
DARTS
• Darts are triangular –
or curved – shapes
stitched into the
garment to help mold
the fabric around the
body’s curves.
• On a pattern, the lines
of the dart are usually
marked by a triangle
(or a curved “triangle”.
BUTTONHOLES
• Buttonholes are marked
by short lines that look
like, well, buttonholes.
• Mark on one side of a
bodice (torso) piece
• Buttons will be sewed on
the opposite side
GATHER POINTS
• Are usually marked either by little circles or crosses.
• They show you where to start and stop a line of gather stitching,
such as when creating a puffed sleeve.
• To gather, stitch two loose running stitches ¼ inch apart. Keep
the threads long on each side. Tie two threads (on same side)
together and pull threads to create gather.
NOTCHES
• Will be indicated on your pattern by either a little triangle or a
small perpendicular line along the cutting lines.
• If there are two next to each other, that indicates the back side of a
sleeve or armhole.
• Marking the notches on your fabric will help you match up the
pieces accurately when it comes to sewing them together.
FOLD LINES AND TUCK LINES-
PLEATS
• Your pattern may have other markings on it too.
• While other markings are usually made on the wrong side of the fabric, it’s a lot
easier to fold these lines into place if you mark them on the right side of the fabric
(just double check your marking tool rubs or washes off!).
• For long lines, I like to mark the ends with either pen or scissors, then use a long
ruler to draw the lines between these markings directly onto the fabric.
DOTS, TRIANGLES, AND SQUARES
• Symbols used to help match and join garment sections, especially areas that
are gathered or eased.

This is a
pictures of a
pocket
placement.
The placement
uses dots to show
where the
pocket should be placed
on the pattern.
The markings
should be marked
before removing
the pattern pieces.