Unit

3 Using patternhs

When you have selected the pattern you want

Snip the salvage near the cut edge and tear
to use, or you have designed your own pattern, across the fabric. Do this on a small piece
the next step is to cut the tabric according to the first to see if the method is
Dattern. Laying the pattern on the fabric correctly possible on
this particular fabric.
and cutting out is crucial to the finished product. Draw or pull out a crosswise thread near
You can spoil the appearance of the finished the cut edge and then cut
along this line.
product due to lack of skill in laying and cutting Most printed designs, especially on
out. cheaper quality fabrics, are not straight
Laying and cutting out is a process involving to a thread. In such cases, cut the
edges
pattern preparation, fabric preparation, laying following a straight line of the pattern and
patterns onto fabric, pinning pattern pieces not of the material.
onto fabric, cutting out and transferring pattern Check the grain of the fabric. Fold in half
markings. lengthwise, bringing the selvedges together.
The cut or torn edges should lie flat arnd even.
Pattern preparation If the cut or torn edges are not even, pull the
short opposite corners diagonally.
lf you are using a commercial pattern for the
first time, start by separating the pattern pieces
and cutting them out. Selvedges
Refer to the pattern envelope and decide
which view you will make, for example, view
A, B or C.
Using the instruction sheet as a guide, select
the pattern pieces for the chosen view.
Return to the envelope those pieces you are
Warp
not going to use.
fold
Compare your body measurements with those
on the chart of body measurements. Long corner Short coner
If there is no pattern envelope, measure the
pattern pieces and compare them with your

body measurements. Make an allowance for

ease in movement and for wearing other -Pull
garments.
Make all necessary alterations.
Tess the pattern pieces to remove creases and
make them lie flat. Use a warm iron. Short corner Long corner

Fabric preparation Refold and pull until the fabric is back in

can do shape, that is, the torn edges lie flat and are
aighten the ends of the fabric. You
this even.
by means of three methods:

Unit 3: Using patterns 37

 90 cm, 115 cm or
the width of fabric:
pull the fabric
At times it is necessary to
150 cm
its entire length in
diagonally throughout the size to be
made
order to bring it back in shape. that is, with or without
the fabric design,
a nap.

Laying out the fabric

and laying out the
There are various ways of folding
Pull
are using
on which layout you
fabric, depending
For double thickness, fold
for your pattern pieces.
or crosswise. For
single
in half, either lengthwise
fold the
thickness or a one-way design, simply
the selvedge partly across the
fabric lengthwise with
the pattern pieces on
width of the fabric, and place
side (RS) up.
the single layer of fabric right
remove
Press the fabric if it is badly creased to
and folds. It is difficult to get accurate
creases Selvedges
results if you lay out the pattern on badly
creased fabric.
Unless fabric is pre-shrunk, shrink before

cutting
Fold white cottons and line neatly and
soak in cold water for several hours

(overnight). Dry and press while still Lengthwise fold

damp on wrong side (WS).
Dip white cottons and linerns in cold water
and dry immediately. Press on WS while Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, bringing the

still damp. selvedges together. This method is suitable for

Steam woollens, using either a steam iron, laying out the pattern pieces on fabrics with or

or a hot dry iron over a damp pressing without nap. However, for checks, stripes and
cloth on ws. Fold the fabric WS out along fabric with a distinct floral design or large motifs,
the length of the fabric during the process ensure that the checks, stripes, florals or motifs
of steaming. match on the upper and the lower layer of the
Examine the fabric for flaws (faults) and mark fabric. This ensures that the pattern of the fabric
them with tailor's chalk or pins on the WS of will be cut on identical positions on both sides of
the fabriC. a piece. After matching the design, pin in
position
Examine the fabric design. Note whether so it does not shift or move out of position before
the fabric has a reversible or all-over design, cutting out.
a definite up and down or one-way design,
or whether it has a pile or nap. This has Single thickness
important considerations when placing Fold the fabric lengthwise with the selvedge
patterns onto the fabric and even when part
across the width of the material. This method is
folding the fabric.
particularly suitable for wider widths of fabric,
An instruction sheet gives several suggested such as 150 It is also suitable for
layouts. Select your layout, considering the
cm.
fabrics wi
or without
nap. It is necessary to match and pin
following points:
the view chosen checks, stripes or motifs, or distinct floral ae5
such as java.

38 Topic 4: Patterns
 Selvedges
Cutting two layers for one-way
designs
Selvedges For
one-way design fabrics and napped or pile
fabrics, if the fabric is folded crosswise, the
pile and nap on the top and bottom design,
layer face
opposite directions. To avoid this, cut off the
Lengthwise fold required length of fabric and place the two
with the pieces
design, pile or nap facing the samne
You can place a pattern piece twice on single fabric direction. The illustration shows the cut off fabric
for economic reasons, although it entails more and pieces placed together with the design facing
work. For example, one sleeve pattern can be cut one direction.
twice on single fabric. In such a case, the piece is
cut once with the RS up and once with the WS
up.
If this is not done, there is a danger of
cutting two
pieces for the same side. Place the other pattern
pieces on the double thickness.

RSup WS up

Single thickness
A
Top layer Under layer

Exercise 4.3
Double thickness
1. Explain three methods of straightening the
ends of a fabric.
2. Explain how to check the grain of a fabric
and what to do to bring the fabric back in
shape if need be.
Folding crosswise for double 3. How would you know which
pattern pieces
thickness to use for a particular view?
Fold the fabric with a crosswise fold. Note that this
method is not suitable for pieces that have to be Laying pattern pieces onto tabric
placed on the fold, because the warp threads will Having selected a layout, arrange the pattern
run across the garment and it will not hang well.
pieces on the prepared fabric, as shown on
the layout. Make sure the pattern pieces all
Selvedges fit before beginning to pin. Pay particular
attention to:
the direction of the straight threads of
the material, that is, the direction of the
warp threads. Place the straight grainline
on a pattern piece parallel to the warp or
selvedge. As the stronger threads of the
material, the warp threads should run
down main parts of a garment for it to
Selvedges
hang well.

Unit 3: Using patterns 39

 whether you have any pieces that should Checks, stripes large motits
not have a seam. In that case, that piece Take much are when laying out on fabrics with
should be placed on a lengthwise fold. a distinct floral design, large motifs, checks or
whether you have any shaded pattern stripes. The design can be distorted and this
pieces. Sometimes it is economical to lay a removes the attractiveness of the garment. Butl
piece face down or WS up, but still coming if cut out with care, a striking effect can be
up with two identical or symmetrical created.
pieces. Such
pieces are shown on the
layout by shading.
whether you have a piece that has a star.If
only one piece is to be cut, it is indicated
by a star on the layout and the piece is cut
out on single fabric or one layer.
The sleeves that are overlapping will be cut
out last on single fabric after opening out
the fabric. One is cut with the WS up and
the other with the RS up. The layout is also
Stripes should be Motifs should appear at
suitable for pile and napped fabrics and those
matched identical positions
with one-way design.

Selvedges It is therefore important to match the checks

or stripes when placing patterns onto fabric
that when joined, they match at the
so
A seams.|
Motifs should be balanced, that is,
appearing
at identical positiorns on a
garment.

Fold
If there is no layoutfollow, such as when
to
Chevron
using a drafted pattern, place the pattern
pattern
pieces in such a way that very little space is left
between the pieces
(economically).
Start with the largest
pieces and fit in smaller
ones.
Place the pieces so that the
warp threads run
down the main parts of a
garment. Matching up stripes gives a
protessional finish
One-way designs or fabrics with a nap Matching stripes, and checks
or pile a
(as above) give
When
professional-looking finish. Manage this by
laying out on one-way design fabrics looking at the position of notches and ends o
and those with seams and
out facing one
a
nap or pile, lay the pieces
for the two
placing these at identical position
direction. The result is that the pieces to be joined.
design, pile or nap runs in the same The layout on the
on all direction top of the next
page shov
pieces. Lay and cut out with the placement of bodice pieces on checked
brushing upwards and the nap pile More fabric than that fabri
downwards running recommended on the
or in the direction that gives the pattern is
usually required.
desired effect.

40 Topic 4: Patterns
 When placed to a fold, double the width is
obtained without a seam.

Selvedges

N8RARS

All-over or reversible designs Fold

On an all-over or reversible
design, place
pattern pieces facing opposite directions
without affecting the appearance of the Pinning pattern pieces onto fabric
garment.
Use dressmaker's or lillikin pins for delicate
Avoid flaws or, alternatively, take care not to fabrics.
place flaws in conspicuous positions on the Pin the grainline first. To ensure that it runs

garment. along a straight thread, measure and pin the

ends of the grainline on an even distance from
Asymmetric design the selvedge or warp threads.
Pattern layouts for asymmetric designs are After pinning the grainlineand any edges
slightly that
different from symmetric designs, because they are fold,
are on add sufficient pins to keep
usually cut on single fabric. the work steady when
cutting. Use extra pins
round curves.
Rough layout Place pins at right angles to the pattern inside
Always start by making a rough layout before the cutting line. The pins should face the same
pinning to see how the pattern pieces are direction to protect yourself
against pinpricks.
going to fit on the material. It is easier and Do not lift the work when
pinning and do not
faster to move patterns that are not yet pinned. put fingers under the work as you pin.
Leave space for pieces that are to be
duplicated. For example, a Peter Pan collar that
requires four pieces to be cut out should be cut
twice on double fabric, so
you need to reserve ->
à
place for the second cuttings.
Lay out on double fabrics as far as possible to
avoid cutting two pieces of the same side.
A piece
placed on double material but not
on a fold will
produce two identical pieces
requiring a seam to join them.
A half
pattern piece is normally used, and
if placed on double fabric, the result is a Measuring an
whole piece which is exactly the same on even distance
both sides.

Unit 3: Using patterns 41

 numbers itside
outs the cuttin
Mark notch
line using a ballpoint pen, or a water-soluble
Cutting out numbers helps you to asse
marker. The emble
matchin notches of
the garment by t

number. These
will fall off when the same
are cut off.
notches
Transfer all dart positions, fold lines.
placement lines, button and buttonhole

markings, pleat fold lines and placeme

balance dots and hemlines.
lines
Use sharp dressmaker's shears with the thumb
in the small opening and two or three fingers
Ways of transterring pattern markino
in the large opening.
Do not lift work when cutting.
Thread narking
Use long, clean cuts to avoid jagged edges This is a name for tailor's tacks and tailor's tackins
where possible.
These methods are very accurate and durable.
Use the tip or point of the shears to cut round
notches and these should be cut outwards.
When working, you can use different coloured
Support the work with your free hand. For tacking cotton on one piece, So that it is easy to
a
right-handed person, the left hand will distinguish the markings during making up of the
support the work whilst the right hand is garment. For example, one colour may be used to
cutting. transfer pleat fold lines and a different colour
used
Do not turn the for the placement lines.
layout. Move around the
working surface.
Cut along the cutting line. Do not cut
Tailor's tacks
over
pins. Using double thread in a contrasting colour, take
Keep the a stitch
pointed blade in contact with the through both layers of the fabric and the
working surface when cutting, to avoid pattern, leaving reasonably long ends at the start.
the fabric. lifting Take another stitch in the
same Tir
thread, forming a loop. Cut the spot, pull
the
Transferring pattern markings another long end or
proceed
thread, leaving
to the next
marked and make spot to be R
Reasons for another loop in the same
transferring pattern Repeat as necessary. way
markings
It
improves accuracy when working
A good lift is
lines
usually obtained whereprocesses.
are
accurately pattern
It becomes easier to positioned.
assemble a garment as
pattern lines and parts of a A
matched correctly. garment can be
It
simplifies the making of
need be. alterations if
Pattern
lines/markings that should be
transferred
Tailor's tacking
Using double thread
Mark all centre
front through both layers ofin the
a
contra
trasting colour, work
(CB) lines that are on (CF) and centre back Take a
stitch, pull the threadfabric and the PasLeav
attern.

the fold with

tracking. a line
of
a
long end at the art forming a lo
start and continue
making a
series of working
42 another long end. loops up to the end. Leave
Topic 4: Patterns
 Tracing wheel and dressmaker's carbon
Remove the pins on the sections to be marked.
Insert a sheet of carbon paper between the
pattern and the fabric and a second sheet
underneath the two layers of fabric. In both
cases, the shiny or darker side should be
against the fabric's WS. Alternatively, use a
folded sheet of carbon
paper.
Go the markings firmly with a tracing
over
wheel. For straight lines, use a ruler to
After working tailor's tacks or tailor's tacking guide.
Take note that the wheel weakens the
(thread markings), proceed as follows: pattern
Unpin pattern from fabric layers.
by making holes.
Cut loops through the centre of each.
Dressmaker's pins
Remove the pattern piece Put pins through all the layers, from the
Gently pull the two layers, leaving lines in
pattern side to fabric underlayer.
identical positions on both garment sections. Turn the work so that the points of pins face
Small tuffs of thread remain each
on
piece. upwards. Use a pencil, tailor's chalk or water-
soluble marker to draw lines from pin to pin.
Turn the fabric over carefully and remove the
pattern without disturbing the pins. Mark
again from pin to pin. Use a ruler guide to
O Cut make straight lines.
Remove pins.

Exercise 4.4
Tailor's chalk
1. Why is fabric usually folded when cutting
Use tailor's chalk of a colour
easily noticeable on symmetrical patterns?
the fabric to mark where
required. To use, remove 2. Suggest two points to consider when laying
Some pins
and fold back part to be marked. Marl
out symmetrical patterns.
in conjunction with a ruler for
straight lines. It 3. What is the main difference between
may be used on either side of the fabric.
symmetric and asymmetric pattern layouts?
4. How would you ensure that the
grainline is
pinned along a straight thread?
5. Explain how to place pattern pieces onto
striped fabric so that the stripes will match at
the seams.

Pattern piece with Cut out section being

marking folded back marked with tailor's chalk

Unit 3: Using patterns 43