Spektator Issue 2

THE Spektator 40 som/сом
№2 November 2008
Your monthly guide to what’s happening in and around Bishkek
Against Love
A true story of kidnapping for marriage
Plus: Shyrdak secrets, Talons and tourism, Glacier hikes

. .
Tourist Map What’s On Restaurant Guide
alatoo
Who we are
CAMP Alatoo is a non-profit and non-governmental organization
founded in 2005 promoting sustainable development in the mountain
regions of Kyrgyzstan. CAMP Alatoo is a successor organization of the
Central Asian Mountain Partnership (CAMP), a program financed
by the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation. Jointly with
its partner organizations in Kazakhstan and Tajikistan, CAMP Alatoo
forms part of the CAMP Network which employs about 25 people.
What we want
The overall goal is to contribute to the improvement of people’s livelihoods
in the mountain villages of Kyrgyzstan by encouraging a more
sustainable use of natural resources.
How we work
CAMP Alatoo pursues a trans-disciplinary and multi-stakeholder
approach based on local, regional and international partnerships
and experiences. CAMP Alatoo develops, adapts and implements
innovative, simple and effective technologies with an emphasis on
awareness raising and involvement by villagers, local institutions,
partner organizations and experts.
What we do
CAMP Alatoo supports the development of mountain villages by promoting
the sustainable use of natural resources through:
• theoretical and practical training
• institutional development of NGOs
• soil and water conservation technologies
• energy saving technologies
• participatory pasture management
• integrated local risk management
• small grants
www.camp.kg
Central Asian Mountain Partnership

Alliance
N o n g ove r n m e n t a l o rg a n i z a t i o n s of Central Asian
for sustainable rural development Mountain Communities
The Spektator Magazine
Publisher: Tom Wellings
Contents
Staff writers: Alex Ward, Robert Marks,
Andreas Hedfors, Carl Whetham,
Anthony Butts, Asel Orozalieva
Email: tom_wellings@live.co.uk
Out & About

Hit the ice
With Kyrgyzstan’s glaciers melting fast, 4
there is no time to lose if you want to see a
prime piece of ice
Lets all buy a shyrdak

Don’t get ripped off in the bazaars - use
5
our tourist-friendly souvenir-carpet
buying guide
This Month
News and Views
Melting glaciers, British royalty, religious
6
freedom and a wrap of the month’s news
Talons and tourism

Find out what wonderful ideas the Kyrgyz
8
Ministry of Tourism is cooking up to entice
more foreign tourists to Kyrgyzstan
Focus
COVER STORY: Against love
We follow the disturbing adventures of a
10
young Kyrgyz man and his friends as they
set out on a slapdash bid to kidnap them-
selves a bride
The Guide
Restaurants, Bars, Clubs 15
Don’t get poisoned, use our restaurant
guide, plus all the best bars and clubs in
town
What’s On
The pick of the entertainment listings for 14
October
Map
Don’t get lost... 15
Weekend
Crosswords, Sudoku, and other things to 16
do over a coffee
The Spektator Magazine is available throughout Bishkek, including: (Travel Agencies) Adventure Seller, Ak-Sai Travel, Carlson Wagonlit, Celestial Mountains, Eotour, Glavtour,Kyrgyz Concept, Kyrgyz Travel,
Muza, NoviNomad (Bars & Restaurants) Cowboy, Hollywood, Metro, New York Pizza, No1, 2x2, Boulevard, Coffeehouse, Doka, Fatboy’s, Four Seasons, Live Bar, Lounge Bar, Meri, Navigator, Stary
Edgar’s Veranda, Adriatico, Cyclone, Dolce Vita, Santa Maria, Golden Bull (Casinos) Europa, Golden Dragon, XO (Hotels) Dostuk, Hyatt, Golden Dragon, Holiday, Alpinist (Embassies and Organi-
Spektator
sations) The UN building, The American base, The German Embassy, The Indian Embassy, The Pakistani Embassy, The Dutch Consulate, CAMP Ala-too, NCCR, The Bishkek Opera & Ballet Society.
THE
.com
See the whole picture with the Spektator and thespektator.com
4 Out & About
Right The desolate Golubina glacier (R. Marks)
Hit
the
Ice
Thanks to our warming world the future of ROB MARKS July and August are the best times to visit, due
Kyrgyzstan’s glaciers does not look bright. to cold temperatures. For helicopter trips, contact
Takyr Tër Glacier, Lake Ala Kël
We advise you, therefore, to get your boots ‘Turkistan’ in Karakol (Toktogul 273, www.karakol.
The real beauty of this glacier, which lies high up in kg) or ‘Kan Tengri’ in Almaty (Kasteev 10, www.
on, pack some sandwiches and take your the mountains to the South of Karakol, is the pris-
kantengri.kz) or ‘Dostuck Trekking’ (see below).
pick from the following selection of Kyrgyz tine high altitude lake which it feeds. Standing on
For trekking and permit support contact ‘Ak-Sai’
glacier excursionsions - before it’s too late. Ala Kël Pass (3860m) and taking in the grand sweep
in Bishkek (Sovietskaya 65, www.ak-sai.com), ‘Dos-
of the glacier as it forms on the icefields clinging
to the peaks of the Ala Too range, slowly envelopes
tuck Trekking’ in Bishkek (Vosemnadstataya Liniya
the valleys below, and finally trickles into the azure 42-1, www.dostuck.com.kg) and ‘ITMC Tien-Shan’
waters of Ala Kël, is a highlight of any trip to Kyr- in Bishkek (Molodaya Gvardia 1A, www.itmc.cen-
gyzstan. It is possible to visit the glacier and lake tralasia.kg).
directly, but most choose to fit it in as part of the
four-day trek from the summer grazing grounds Ak-Say and Golubina Glaciers, Ala Archa
of Jetti-Orguz to the wild hot springs of Altyn-Ar- National Park
ashan. Keep your eyes open and you may see ibex, In the tranquil alpine setting of Ala Archa National
marmots, and such rare birds of prey as the bearded Park, these glaciers are accessible as overnight excur-
Below Ak-Say glacier (R. Marks) lamagai. If you are lucky, you’ll also stumble across
sions from Bishkek, either camping or staying in the
the hunter’s camp which stocks vodka which tastes
more comfortable accommodation available around
like petrol.
the alpine hotel in the park. Each glacier has a dis-
The best time to visit is from around May to Sep-
tember, or whenever the passes are clear of snow.
tinct character, making both well worth a visit.
The Trekking map ‘South-East Issyk-Kul Lake Coast’ Ak-Say Glacier involves a stiff but rewarding hike
covers the various routes and is available from the from the Alpine hotel to the Ratsek alpinists’ hut.
Bishkek ‘Cartography Agency’ (see details above). Here is a good place to camp, with views over the
Trekking agencies in Karakol will be happy to help craggy and volatile snout of Ak-Say, leading up to
you with guiding, gear and logistics – try ‘Ecotrek’ Peak Box (4,293m) and Peak Korona (4,691m). A
(Toktogula 112A, (3922)51115, karakol@rambler.ru). further trek up the rocky track at the Western side of
the glacier leads you up to great views of the glacier
Inulchek Glacier proper, and the routes taken by such alpine greats
At the far Eastern tip of the country, China, Kyr- as Lowe and Barber up Peak Free Korea (4,777m).
gyzstan and Kazakhstan are separated by the im- This leads onto the glacier itself, allowing you to see
penetrable barrier of the Tien-Shan range, which it first hand. You can also hang out with the Russian
is itself guarded by the mighty Inulchek glacier - alpinists that gather in the area and listen to them
more than 62 kilometers in length and 3.5 kilom- blabber on about how gnarly they are.
eters across. This is the realm of serious alpinists The Golubina Glacier feels a world away from Ak-
making attempts on Peak Pobeda (7,439m), and Say, a seemingly endless expanse of gnarled rock
the area is associated with such hardy explor- and ice wedged under the brooding Peak Ala Acha
ers as Pyotr Semyonov and Nikolai Przhevalsky. (4088m). The sense of isolation is reinforced by the
If you want to follow in their footsteps you will ghostly long-abandoned glacial service hut which
need to arrange an expensive helicopter flight, or clings to the rocky slope overlooking Golubina. The
guides and permits for the tricky five-day trek in. route there is less demanding, but picturesque,
But the rewards for the adventurer are great, with crossing numerous rickety wooden bridges as it
grand vistas over truly wild, unexplored environ- winds down Ala Archa valley and finally departing
ments, forbidden to everyone until only recently. from the beaten track to force a way up to the gla-
If you are fortunate, in mid August you may also cier service hut.
be able to see the point when the banks of the The best time to visit is from around May to Oc-
enigmatic Merzbacher lake melt, sending tons of tober - although it’s possible to . A good trekking
ice and water instantly pouring down onto the map for Ala Archa National Park is available from
glacier. the Bishkek ‘Cartography Agency’
A number of mountaineering outfits run base (107 Kievskaya - Near Togolok Moldo on the
camp facilities in the Inulchek valley, including third floor of the building which also houses DHL,
tented accommodation, food, saunas, and so on. tel. (0312) 212217).
November 2008 The Spektator www.thespektator.com
Out & About 5
Lets
all buy a shyrdak
The Spektator’s resident Kyrgyz rug expert, What should I look for in my Shyrdak?
Rob Marks, shares some of his shyrdak se- Shyrdaks come in a variety of colours and patterns.
crets to help you lay your hands on a prime The artificial dyes produce more vivid, longer-last-
ing colours, but the more subdued natural dyes are
piece of carpet.
making a comeback, and are rather more tasteful.
There are various patterns which are recognisably
H
ROB MARKS
‘Kyrgyz’, such as the ram’s horns design, which is
efting my sixth bucket of putrid supposed to represent wealth/virility/protection
sewer water, it was difficult not to re- depending on who you ask. The traditional designs
flect on the difference between life in apparently have their roots in shamanistic supersti-
England, and life in the villages of Kyr- tion, but their original significance seem to have
gyzstan. ‘In England your government been forgotten by many. More modern, creative
takes care of everything for you’, a local advised designs can also be found. To ensure you have an
me ‘but here we have a saying: if they will not help authentic shyrdak, look at the stitching: if looks like
me I will help myself’. it has been done by a machine, it probably was.
Indeed. So there I was, in the absence of a serv-
iceable sewage system, emptying the drains for Where’s my closest shyrdak emporium?
our house by hand with an old bucket. But this There are several options, depending on your
was of course only one manifestation of the self time and travel plans: They supply the traditional and innovative de-
help ethic of which the local chap was speaking. signs for the Kyrgyz Style shop in Bishkek. Led by
Another is well known to travelers and locals alike, Bishkek artist Zulaika Riskeldieva.
especially those who have had to pay a bribe to Generally the tourist shops and shopping cen- Naryn
some policeman or official who felt they were en- tres seem to stock fairly unappealing shyrdaks for The best shyrdaks are said to come from the
titled to help themselves to your holiday money in high prices. What I found for sale in the bazaars Naryn region. Who knows. But this is perhaps
order to supplement their meagre wages. But the was frankly rancid. Taking the time and effort to the most challenging shopping destination. The
necessity of doing things for yourself in Kyrgyzstan seek out those who stock authentic work from best way to get in touch with local producers is
has also translated into various entrepreneurial the far-flung regional cooperatives will generally to contact Community Based Tourism (CBT) in
ventures which turn traditional handicrafts into a get you a better shyrdak. Naryn (35212) 50895, 50865; Lenina 8.
source of income. Zaria – in Naryn, on Lenina, hidden opposite the
Kyrgyz Style - Apt 12, Bokanbaev 133; (312)
The influx of tourists to Kyrgyzstan has provided 621267; www.kyrgyzstyle.kg bus stop. An NGO which produces export quality
a market which allows people in rural areas to make A non-profit organisation who use a network of shyrdaks.
some money by selling their traditional handmade skilled artisans to produce top quality stuff, ex- Nuska – in Naryn, on Lenina – set back from the
felt carpets, called shyrdaks to travellers. On a re- ported globally. My first choice in Bishkek. road and signposted with a sandwich board.
cent horse-riding trip to Kochkor, one of the locals ZUM – Chuy 155 (312) 2192794 Operated by a local designer whose work has
told me that ‘there is nothing to do in winter, when On the third floor of this department store you been internationally exhibited.
the tourists are gone, all we do is sit at home and can find standard tourist fare. Shyrdaks really do it for me, where can
drink vodka for six months.’ But of course this is Asahi – 136 Chuy (312) 665710
at most only half true. As while the men stagger This boutique style quality ‘arts handicrafts’ shop
I learn more?
Try the Museum of Fine arts, (196 Soveitskaya, op-
around from bottle to bottle the women are work- accepts credit cards.
posite the Opera House; Tue-Sun 9am-5pm, Fri
ing away producing goods to sell when the tourists Tumar – 36 Togolok Moldo
10am-4pm; entrance $2) which exhibits some old
reappear. Cooperatives like the Altyn Oimok Work- Another boutique style quality ‘arts’ shop. Appar-
rugs.
shop have formed to give women in otherwise im- ently they can find people to take ‘tush kyiz’ (an-
poverished areas the opportunity to help provide other type of dyed felt rug) commissions.
for their families, and organisations like Kyrgyz Issyk-Kul Area Below & Top Both of these fine specimins meet
Style provide a link to the international export mar- Setting off into the wilds in search of your dream with the approval of Rob Marks (R. Marks)
ket. This seems to work well for everybody. Even carpet can be an adventure in itself in Kyrgyzstan
the customer who buys the shyrdak can enjoy the (in the sense of an arduous journey whose out-
warm fuzzy feeling of knowing not only that they come is neither certain nor necessarily pleasura-
are probably getting an authentic product, but ble). However, take the time and you’ll probably
their money is helping support local industries and find a more authentic product at cheaper prices,
communities (or at least breweries). and learn something along the way.
Altyn Kol Women’s Cooperative (in Kochkor)
How much should I pay for my Shyrdak? – contact the ‘Shepherd’s Life’ representative
Nobody wants to be a crusty hippy backpacker Miriam Omurskova (3535) 21423111, or the CBT
arguing over every last som, but don’t be afraid office in Kochkor, 22A Pioneerskaya (3535) 22355
to ask for a discount (skidka), especially if you A women’s cooperative, producing the real thing
are picking up a couple of things. Prices vary at good prices. The high mountain pastures
greatly depending on the size, quality and com- nearby apparently produce ideal conditions for
plexity of the shydrak, as well as where you buy the sheep’s semi-fine wool.
it from (buying direct from the villages where Altyn Oimok Workshop (in Bokonbaeva) – 69/70
the goods are produced will be much cheaper). Kyrgyzskaya (3947) 93121, 91590
Expect to pay upwards of $100 for something This workshop provides work for single women
decent. with large families, and sources all wool locally.
www.thespektator.com November 2008 The Spektator

6 This Month
Kyrgyzstan’s
glaciers
slipping away
TOM WELLINGS
BISHKEK, Oct 9 (The Spektator) - A recent study car-
ried out in Kyrgyzstan by ‘NCCR North South’ – a Swiss
research program tackling issues of global change
around the world - suggests that the decline and re-
treat of Kyrgyz glaciers is becoming increasingly rapid.
The report, published this year, focused on the
Sokoluk watershed in Chui Oblast, an area of approxi- charges of pollution into the atmosphere must be ricultural products in Kyrgyzstan, especially grain
mately 720km2. It aimed to assess the changes in gla- introduced. The UN Kyoto Protocol was adopted crops, is grown on irrigated lands. The faster we in-
cier surface area since 1963 by mapping current gla- with such a goal, but not all countries signed it troduce water-saving and water-efficient systems
cier coverage and comparing the data with previously and support it.” of irrigation, the better we will ensure our food se-
secret Russian topographic maps as well as satellite However, Murat Koshoev, national coordinator curity.”
images from different periods up to 2000. of the LIFE programme and Small Grant Programme The Kyrgyz may be powerless to stop industrial-
Results showed an overall area loss of 28% between of the UN, said that ramshackle irrigation systems ised countries belching out pollution, but if a more
1963 and 2000 with a clear acceleration of wastage and general inefficient use of water are factors even sparing attitude to water resources is adopted in
since the 1980s, mirroring results of previous studies more important to food security than the threat of addition to improvements to the water infrastruc-
in other regions of the Tien Shan as well as the Alps. melting glaciers: “We need to make the irrigation ture the country will be better placed to deal with
It was discovered that there are now eighty gla- systems more efficient as a significant part of ag- the shortages that undoubtedly lie ahead.
ciers in the watershed, eight small glaciers of less
than half a kilometre in length have totally disap-
peared since 1963. This class of small glacier seems
Kyrgyzstan in Brief
particularly susceptible to decline, constituting only
one quarter of the total ice surface in 1963 but ac- ‘War-starting, fuel-spilling’ Stalled Sayipov shooting investi-
counting for more than 40% of the entire area loss
up to the year 2000.
Americans told to go home gation called ‘an outrage’
Daniel Masseli, a Swiss environmental scientist BISHKEK, Oct 21(AFP) - Some 100 activists from BISHKEK, Oct 24 (The Spektator) - On the first
who works for NCCR North South, said that the re- two Kyrgyz political groups rallied in Bishkek on anniversary of Uzbek journalist Alisher Sayipov’s
sults of the study indirectly confirm the increase of October 21 calling for withdrawal of the US air fatal shooting in the southern Kyrgyz city of Osh,
air temperature and heat fluxes over recent decades base from Kyrgyzstan. Reporters Without Borders called on the Kyrgyz
observed in many other regions around the world. Protesters from the nationalist Zhoomart group authorities to relaunch the murder investigation,
He said that they also show that glaciers in elevat- and the Sergiy Radonezhsky Fund cheered as which has made no substantial progress and has
ed continental zones are no less sensitive to global Zhoomart’s leader Nurlan Motuyev burned a US been suspended twice.
warming than glaciers in areas closer to the sea. flag and an effigy of US President George W. Bush. “The lack of any substantial progress is dis-
Massive glacier retreat would be a dire threat “Americans are the first to begin wars every- graceful,” Reporters Without Borders said. “So far
to stability in Central Asia. Currently, water locked where, they kill peaceful Muslims, spill fuel on neither perpetrators nor masterminds have been
away in the snow and glaciers of Kyrgyzstan and our soil and make farmers suffer from poor crops. identified. Such a degree of impunity is an out-
Tajikistan gradually melts throughout the spring Away with the air base!” Motuyev called. rage. The investigators should seriously consider
and summer providing a reliable supply of drinking “There is a threat that if a US base stays in Kyr- the possibility that the murder was linked to Say-
and irrigation water for much of the Central Asian gyzstan, Muslim countries like Iraq, Afghanistan ipov’s journalistic work instead of trying to explain
region. Glacier melt-water peaks at an ideal time and China would take vengeance on us,” the it away in terms of his support for the Uzbek exile
feeding important regional rivers just when farm- Fund’s leader Igor Trofimov warned. opposition party Erk or the contacts he may have
ers’ demands for irrigation water is at its highest. If had with banned religious grops.”
the water flow is reduced or disturbed, many highly China food scare spills over into KG
populated lowland areas particularly in Uzbekistan
and Turkmenistan will be put at risk of acute water
BISHKEK, Nov 1 (IWPR) - A scare involving im-
ports of Chinese flour has raised concerns about
Kyrgyz economic doom looms
shortages. the rigour with which the Kyrgyz government en- BISHKEK, Nov 4 (AP) - Kyrgyzstan’s economy minis-
Given that agriculture is such a significant sec- forces food safety standards. ter said Tuesday that the global economic crisis may
tor in the national economies of Central Asian While the authorities have claimed they reacted drive the nation to the verge of financial collapse.
countries, an agricultural crisis caused by dimin- as soon as they became aware there was a problem, A drop in the amount of money sent home
ishing supplies of fresh water could ruin people’s the discovery of contaminated flour has highlight- from migrant laborers working abroad and falling
livelihoods and lead to potential regional conflict. ed defects in the way imported food is checked. investment rates could start to affect the country
For these reasons, monitoring the region’s gla- Reports that melamine, a potential harmful by early next year, Akylbek Japarov said during a
ciers and forming a thorough understanding of chemical, had been found in a consignment of televised government meeting.
their status and dynamics is fundamental in order flour imported from China surfaced on a Kyrgyz “Our government is in real terms on the thresh-
to anticipate water crises and plan appropriate news website on October 23. old of a financial crisis,” Japarov said. “A decline in
measures. Melamine is a man-made substance that, when Kyrgyzstan’s economic situation is quite possible
Ryskul Usubaliev from the Central-Asian Insti- added to food products, makes it appear that they by February or March 2009.”
tute for Applied Geosciences (CAIAG) said: “Gla- have greater protein content. It is the chemical that A third of Kyrgyzstan’s trade turnover is reliant
ciers are melting owing to our warming climate. contaminated dairy products in the recent scandal on exports to Russia and neighboring Kazakhstan,
To stop this process we need to take a number in China, where four children died and more than whose economies are expected to slow in coming
of economic measures. Restrictions over the dis- 50,000 fell ill after consuming tainted baby milk months.

This Month 7
Religious free-
dom under
siege in Bishkek
JOHN C.K. DALY
BISHKEK, Oct 28 (IWPR) - Officials in Kyrgyzstan

appear intent on establishing tight control over
expressions of faith. The country’s parliament is
widely expected to give final approval soon to
legislation that would severely restrict the rights
of religious groups.
The government is touting the bill on religion
as an anti-terrorism measure, saying that the new
statutes would make it easier for law-enforcement
authorities to contain Islamic radicals. In addition,
officials say that the pending legislation is needed
to help thwart what some portray as a second so-
cial scourge - evangelical Christians.
“We are afraid of religious extremism. Those
who try to influence people on the level of psy- Keeping the faith Orthodox believers have little to fear from the proposed legislation (Photo:
chology are trying to take destructive actions,” Duncan Ferguson)
said Kanatbek Murzahalilov, the deputy director requirements of reality.” Specifically, the current leased in September, noted that while “most reli-
of the State Agency on Religious Affairs (SARA). legal framework didn’t account for the presence gious groups operated with little interference from
Critics find fault both with the intent of the of evangelical Christians in Kyrgyzstan. “The the [Kyrgyz] government or each other, there were
legislation and the manner in which the Kyrgyz Kyrgyz people are very tolerant and have been several reports of societal abuses or discrimination
government is pursuing change. One of their big- this way for centuries, but this obsessive work based on religious affiliation, belief, or practice. The
gest complaints is that the legislation is shrouded of Christian and, sometimes, Islamic groups ... report went on to document instances of tension
in secrecy. According to Forum 18, an Oslo-based could lead to unpleasant consequences,” the “between Muslims and former Muslims who had
religious rights watchdog organization, Kyrgyz SARA official stated converted to other religious groups.” For exam-
officials have refused to make public the text of Prominent clerics among Kyrgyzstan’s estab- ple, the report cited an incident in May in which a
the amendments. The legislation secured parlia- lished faiths - Sunni Islam and Russian Orthodox Christian convert was prevented from burying his
mentary approval during a first reading October Christianity - share the official view of the country’s 14-year-old son in a local cemetery in the central
9, and it is now scheduled for a second and final spiritual landscape. Father Igor Dronov, Secretary part of the country. He was told he would have
legislative vote on October 31. to renounce Christianity before being allowed to
One MP, Zainidin Kurmanov, revealed to Forum 18
that the latest version of the draft law contains a ban
“Officials say that the pending inter his son in the predominantly Muslim burial
ground. Inter-faith tension was especially high in
on activity by unregistered religious groups, as well legislation is needed to help thwart rural areas, the report added.
as a prohibition on the free distribution of religious Not surprisingly, representatives of evangelical
literature. It also criminalizes “proselytism” and re-
what some portray as a second so- groups are outspoken in their criticism of the leg-
quires that a religious organization have at least 200 cial scourge - evangelical Christians’’ islation. “It [will be] the same as it was during the
adult members who are citizens of the Kyrgyz repub- Soviet Union,” Sergey Lysov - director of the Kyr-
lic in order to qualify for official registration. gyzstan branch of Bible League, an international
“It appears the draft law is targeting communi- of the Russian Orthodox Diocese in Kyrgyzstan, non-profit organization - said in reference to the
ties that members of parliament don’t like,” said is a staunch critic of the proselytizing efforts by amendments. “Churches that have less than 200
Felix Coley, Forum 18’s editor told EurasiaNet. “It “non-traditional” religious groups. Describing parishioners cannot re-register; therefore many
seems some politicians are unhappy with Kyrgyz some groups as “dangerous” and “totalitarian,” he churches will not be able to exist legally.”
changing faith, especially Muslims to Christianity.” endorsed the pending legislation as necessary. Lysov went on to defend the right of evangeli-
Corley suggested that, from the viewpoint “Those sects are very harmful and bring a lot of cal groups to operate openly and actively in Kyr-
of religious persecution, implementation of the damage to the society as a whole,” he said. gyzstan. “People think if someone was born Kyrgyz
amendments would place Kyrgyzstan on a slip- Imam Haji Shakir Mamatov, the spiritual lead- then he or she automatically becomes Muslim,” he
pery slope. “If the government starts targeting er of Bishkek’s largest mosque, also favors the said. “They don’t give him the freedom of choice.
one community, pretty soon all communities amendments. He likened Islamic radical groups Kyrgyz people come to Christianity themselves;
[could be] affected,” he cautioned. that are active in Kyrgyzstan, especially Hizb-ut- nobody makes them change their faith.”
Asked if the law targeted Christian or Muslim Tahrir, and evangelical Christian organizations Representatives of other evangelical organiza-
groups, Murzahalilov, the SARA officials, insisted to political parties. Not changing the status quo tions indicated that the amendments would not
that organizations that encouraged people to would quickly stoke social strife, he argued, add- deter them from their missions. Two members
change their faith “damage[d] society.” ing that he was particularly wary of evangelicals. of one Christian group, speaking on condition
“Religion is a very delicate thing and the fact “If one is converted [to Christianity] and oth- of anonymity, said they felt compelled to keep
that they [proselytizers] are insistently trying to ers in the family are Muslims, it [provokes] fight- proselytizing. “We respect the authority of gov-
spread their faith is a violation of basic human ing in the family, the community and society,” ernment because the Bible tells us to do what the
rights,” Murzahalilov said. Mamatov said. government says,” one of them said. “We will lis-
Murzahalilov characterized existing legislation The US State Department’s 2008 installment ten and obey, but they cannot shut our mouths.
as “too liberal,” adding that it didn’t “meet the of its International Religious Freedom Report, re- We will continue to share our beliefs.”
This article has been reproduced with the kind permission of International War and Peace Reporting. www.iwpr.net

8 This Month
Talons
tourism
and
K
WINSTON OLSEN
Last month a government-sponsored hunt- YRGYZSTAN: THE COUNTRY OF tour- out that the event had not been advertised
ing festival was held in Issyk-Kul - just one ism,” read one event marshal’s t-shirt at abroad, and that greater effort would be made in
the Calburan festival near Bokombayeva this regard next year.
idea the Tourism Ministry is pursuing in the
last month, neatly displaying the govern- Animal cruelty issues aside, the spectacle of
hope of securing Kyrgyzstan a place on the ment’s keen ambition of drawing more golden eagles soaring over an arid Kyrgyz land-
must see list of the intrepid traveller. curious foreigners within the country’s borders. scape is certainly worth the four-hour taxi ride
The event - which debuted this year and is from Bishkek. But whether this event alone has
slated as an annual fixture - involved enough enough appeal to actively attract foreigners to
blood sport to drive a PETA activist to pull out the country is a different matter.
his dreadlocks in frustration, alongside some Either way, Kyrgyzstan’s mission to attract tourists
traditional music, hunting rituals and costumes. is shared by other former Soviet states that have more
Top Right A chained wolf and a Kyrgyz taigan As around two hun- in the way of beautiful
- an esteemed breed of hunting dog (All Photos dred spectators gath- scenery than export-
by Evan Harris) ered to watch a chained
”Around two hundred specta- able commodities. With
wolf set upon by a pack tors gathered to watch a chained decent marketing, the
of dogs, the day’s climax, thinking goes, adven-
Tourism Ministry press
wolf set upon by a pack of dogs” ture holidays and ecot-
secretary Elvira Myrsa- ourism could help milk
bekova explained what a potential cash cow,
the government hopes to achieve by funding boosting employment and investment.
this gritty extravaganza. “Spain is famous for its Georgia is a little further ahead in this game,
traditions – we’d like to promote Kyrgyzstan as a having recently launched a tourism marketing
country with such a festival,” she says, as some of drive in the Economist magazine and opening
the dogs lose interest in the ferocious wolf and a brand new international airport last year. And
wander back to their owners. “We are promoting while the Georgian government’s year-end tour-
[Kyrgyz] nature and such places as Issyk-Kul, tra- ism figures of over a million are preposterous, it
ditions and culture,” she expands in a later inter- is certainly taking a step in the right direction.
view. Kyrgyzstan is in a trickier situation – more ex-
pensive and further to fly to, and habitually con-
Eagle-eyed holidaymakers? fused with the non-tourist friendly Kurdistan,
Earlier in the day eagle owners from around the coun- it is unlikely to become the next Costa del Sol
try, as well as a small contingent from Kazakhstan, any time soon. But Myrsabekova is convinced
showcased their bird’s hunting skills, launching them that the festival could play a significant role in
from a nearby hillside to swoop down on foxes and stimulating tourism. “The idea is very good, it is
hares to sporadic applause from the audience. reliable, we have all the possibilities,” she says.
There were only a handful of foreigners in the Moreover it is only one of a number of ideas that
crowd, although Myrsabekova is quick to point the government is experimenting with.

This Month 9
Santa Claus is coming...in February delegation’s proposal of a Schengen-inspired visa about this is yet to be seen, and Myrsabekova
A slightly more outlandish brainchild of the busy system in Central Asia at a regional tourism confer- could not say how soon such a scheme could be
workerbees down at the Tourism Ministry is Kyr- ence last month in Uzbekistan. The system would in place. But the very idea itself shows that the Kyr-
gyzstan’s ‘International Festival of the Santa Claus- allow travel around the region on a single visa and gyz government is at least aware of the avenues it
es of the World.’ would likely lessen the bureaucratic and financial needs to explore to up its annual tourism figures.
Debuting earlier this year in the festive month drawbacks to travelling here and may encourage As for the success of next year’s Santa Claus
of February, the event took its inspiration from more cross border excursions. meet and the Calburan curious Spektator readers
research undertaken by a Swedish engineering How enthusiastic Kyrgyzstan’s neighbours are will be able to see for themselves.
company in 2007. The light-hearted study calcu-
lated that Kyrgyzstan is logistically the optimum
place for the industrious present-giver to be based
out of - news that was taken in Bishkek as reason
for an annual charity get-together of Santas from
across the earth.
However, while Kyrgyzstan may have triumphed
logistically when it comes to the possibilities of
breakneck global philanthropy, logistics and bu-
reaucracy are potential obstacles to a healthy flow
of tourists here.
C’est la visa
As anyone who has had the pleasure of trundling
around the various government departments and
embassies in Bishkek, sorting out your documenti
in this part of the world is no Swiss picnic.
A key element of the Georgian strategy in open-
ing up to foreigners was scrapping visas for west-
erners, essentially guaranteeing a trouble-free
entry into the country for anyone who is likely to
bring a fat wallet with them.
When asked about the difficulties of extending
visas in Kyrgyzstan, Myrsabekova insists that it is a
subject the government is trying to address. “We’re
looking for ways to make it more convenient for
foreigners [visiting Central Asia], she says.”
One example, Myrsabekova adds, is the Kyrgyz

10 Focus
H
ANTHONY BUTTS
Against
love
IGH IN THE FORESTED jade green moun- Here in Kyrgyzstan, a land almost exclusively of
tains above Lake Issyk Kul in Kyrgyzstan mountains, live the descendants of hunters – hunt-
a lone horseman thunders down toward ers whose centuries long dominion over these
us, a herd of horses galloping before him. mountains was ended only by the cannons, bullets
Sitting on my horse, I tinker with the con- and the machine guns of the Tsar’s armies. Under
trols on my video camera getting ready to capture Imperial Russia this land of warriors and nomadic
the excitement - a good bit of footage for my televi- tribes became at first a vassal state, then with com-
sion documentary. But next to me, my two horse- munism the mountain people were taken down
men companions have other ideas. With a cry they and herded like their own sheep into drab apart-
urge their horses on and are suddenly in front of ment blocks and factories where they were taught
me, galloping up to meet the lone rider. writing and ‘civilisation’. When the USSR collapsed
In the lands of Genghis Khan, Antony
Before I know it, my horse bolts. I seize the reins and Kyrgyzstan became independent, so did Kyr-
Butts reports on the rise and rise of steal- in alarm, finding myself flying up the mountainside gyzstan’s economy. Its people, living at the end
ing women for marriage - a once obscure against my will, my forgotten video camera bounc- of world, thousands of miles from any ocean and
custom that most Kyrgyz men now see as ing manically around on its strap. My steed is flat out, sandwiched between China, Russia and a host of
a birthright jealously wanting to catch up with his two mates unstable ‘Stans’, were now neither adapted to the
and I’m forced to hold on for dear life, gripping the new capitalism nor to the nomadic yurt-dwelling
saddle with my thighs as hard as I can. To my great world of their ancestors. The hard times that began
alarm, my horse is utterly unresponsive to my des- seventeen years ago have never really ended. But
perate yanking on the reins, but as we bound tire- the desire to become hunters once again has never
lessly up the mountain, I let go of the panic and be- died.
gin to enjoy the wind rushing through my hair, the I was here making a documentary film for Al
feeling of total exhilaration. Somehow it feels right, Jazeera about the Kyrgyz custom of marriage
as if I have been thrown back to an age where men – known locally as Alla Kachu or “bride stealing”.
were hunters who rode high on horses and ruled There is a saying that no matter how absurd or evil
this primeval land of snow, forest and mountains, the idea, if it is in the right people’s interest you can
and their Gods were the very elements themselves. be sure that people will find a way to believe in and
This was the Central Asia I had come to see – a justify it. And here in Kyrgyzstan, village society has
forgotten land in the middle of a vast continent. A evolved a way for the men to carry on hunting. A
land of forests, mountains, deserts and intense hot way that suits the post Soviet chaos, economic
and cold. For these were the wild spaces where depression and yearning for a return to the ways
Genghis Khan gathered his armies of nomadic of their ancestors. My wedding client Ilyas didn’t
horse archers to wreak carnage on the infant Rus- even know who his bride was. Neither did my two
sian civilisation in the 13th century. As our horses overeager horsemen companions, Ilyas’s best mate
finally halted, the lone horseman had changed Talant and his brother Zhassan. In fact nobody did.
from a small speck to a guy in a checked shirt and Sure there were several girls on the “will kidnap if
baseball cap. This man was Ilyas and I was here to she’s there” list, but nothing certain. But maybe that
film his wedding day. But this was no normal wed- is the point of a hunt – the thrill of the unknown.
Above Caught in the act. Ilyas (centre) plays ding video I had been asked to shoot. For as I was Marriages in Kyrgyzstan used to be mostly by
second fiddle to Talant, the best man, who car- to discover, the beauty and power of a more primi- mutual agreement. Nobody really knows how
ries the freshly snatched girl into the house (All tive way of life comes with a cruelty just as intense many marriages were made by bride stealing be-
photos by Anthony Butts) and wild as nature itself. fore the Soviet Union collapsed in 1992, but re-

Focus 11
search by Human Rights Watch puts it around 30%. tains now burned with the hot midday sun. I fished enjoying some tea while looking forward to the
In the economic darkness since then, bride stealing out my battered camera to grab an interview with arrival of the new bride: “I’m old and ill. I want to
has flourished like mushrooms after a rainstorm. By Ilyas and his friends on their plans for the day. Il- give all the housework and housekeeping, looking
2001, 50% of Kyrgyz marriages were made by kid- yas was somewhat quiet and preferred his “best after cattle, to this new bride so she can do it all,”
napping. And just three years later in 2004, it had man” Talant to do most of the talking. Talant was Ilyas’s mum explains, not feeling at all ill at ease as
risen to 80%. Bride stealing had become a new way a sub burnt 30-year old shepherd with gold teeth she explains her true motives for the benefit of my
for people to identify themselves as not Russian, and a right rascally face. “Tell me about your plans camera. “Ilyas is already 30 and I’m tired of wait-
but Kyrgyz – the descendants of great ancestors. for today?” I asked. Talant pointed to a horse grazing.”
The rules of the game are simple. It is against ing nearby, a bell around its neck chiming softly in Ilyas’s mum now reveals herself as the true mas-
the law and punishable by seven years in jail, but the distance. “Right now, she’s just a foal, a young termind of the kidnapping enterprise. She goes
in order for there to be a conviction, the girl must horse, wild and free. She’s not seen anything in life.” into a chest and gets out the marriage scarf – a
sign a police statement. If she’s kidnapped, she can’t Then he smiled, “But when we catch her, she will white cotton shawl she says she has been saving
do that for obvious reasons, and if she tries to do kick and scream. They all do this.” The horses tug specially for the occasion. She explains to me the
it after the kidnap, her parents won’t allow it be- at their reins and nod as if in agreement, perhaps plan. It’s a plan that will be repeated an estimated
cause of the shame it will bring to the girl’s family. eager for another gallop. “But we’ll harness her up ten thousand times across Kyrgyzstan during the
Everybody kidnaps in Kyrgyzstan. The police do it year - with devastating effect as over 90% of kid-
too. One colonel of the militia admitted that “most nappings end with the girl marrying the kidnap-
of the lads” in his force kidnap. He himself had been per.
accused of hiring his police car and himself out to “Put simply: to not kidnap your Holding up the scarf in front of her, she proudly
friends looking for a bit more “muscle” in their kid- declares that she is a real Kyrgyz and follower of
napping. Put simply: to not kidnap your wife means
wife means you are not a man” an ancient tradition. “She daren’t say no to my boy.
you are not a man. One last rule: In the hunt for a When we put this shawl on her she is considered
bride, any girl is fair game – boyfriend or not - just married. If she refuses, no man will want her.”“She’ll
so long as she’s a virgin. and break her. Then she’ll be an obedient work be a pariah, considered no longer a maiden but a
I had come from Kyrgyzstan’s capital city Bishkek horse who can pull carts.” He begins to laugh but woman. She’ll only be fit for a second or third wife.”
the day before with a sheep in the back of a taxi to then the other horseman Ilyas’s brother Zhassan I didn’t understand the words at the time, but now
get to the wedding. It was tough - over 200 miles jumps in, perhaps eager not to throw Kyrgyz tra- I am editing the film it seems almost as if she en-
up roads that don’t look like they’ve been resur- ditions in the wrong light. “Maybe that doesn’t joyed those last words. She was kidnapped herself.
faced since Soviet times. Kidnappings are happen- sound so good,” he says. “But that’s just the way Maybe this is her revenge? There was also the su-
ing all the time, but I wanted to get there early to it is!” Talant jokes back. “What if she’s got a boy- perstitious borsok bread – the special bread they
film the preparations. Ilyas was a friend of a friend friend or is in love with someone else?” I ask. “Ah throw over her that has the same kind of effect as
of my translator, and so I’d managed to invite myself well, the bride belongs to the one who takes her the scarf. “But what if the scarf and bread doesn’t
over for a few days. My entrance ticket was our poor first!” says Talant. “It’s not for nothing that we say work?” I ask. But Old Mother has other plans: “I
sheep, a little black one I had selected because it that a girl is like a stone. Where she is thrown is will use all the old ways, all the superstitions such
had a big fatty bum (the bigger the bum, the more where she stays.” as spitting on bread.” “What about curses?” “No, I
prestigious it is – and I can report that it is not that The conversation carried on like this. There don’t think they will be necessary. But the fates will
tasty for English sensibilities). Our sheep (who I had were a few more interesting home-spun sayings give her a terrible life if she refuses. And if she re-
called Sean) was the equivalent of taking a bottle of that are used in cultures throughout the world spects her elders she will be compelled to stay.”
wine over to a friend’s party. to justify their actions: “It’s not for nothing that It is a three-pronged psychological attack: The
Much of the drive was along the mountain shores we say a man is brought up from birth; a woman shame and difficulty of remarrying and being treat-
of Lake Issyk Kul. At 182 km long and 60 km wide, it from the first day of marriage.” They were after a ed as second-hand goods, fear of superstitious curs-
is the world’s second largest mountain lake. On the fat girl who Ilyas had met at a party six months es and respect for elders (even if they are strangers).
map it looks like an enormous deep blue eye. Up ago. They had talked on the phone a few times, If the bread and scarf is not enough, it is not un-
close and sitting on its sandy shores, it is a beautiful but not met each other since. But as the morning common for guys to rape their victims to consum-
lake, almost a sea, surrounded by a constant ring of drags on, up in these mountains overlooking the mate the marriage physically. A final reason is that
snow-capped mountains encircling the distant ho- brooding blue mass of Issyk Kul, Ilyas starts fret- in the merciless village culture of constant rumours
rizons as far as the eye can see. We passed lots of ting. “Of course I’m worried,” he tells me. “I mean and gossiping, the girls’ shame is also the parents’
primitive looking tourist resorts that neighbouring I plan to start a family. I’m not doing this just to shame. Rather than risk having a shamed and un-
Kazakhs come to visit in the summer. I had a run-in have fun.” marriageable daughter on the hands, the parents
with one of these when I was served some disas- The other shepherds gather in a small hut while a will force the daughter to marry the kidnapper.
trously reheated mutton and potato soup. I quickly woman makes cream from a noisy handheld grind- As all this is translated to me, I feel like marrying
pinned the blame on the outdoor toilets – holes in ing machine that gurgles out a sickly trickle of man- a girl here must be like shooting fish in a barrel.
the ground that are a few metres from the café sur- gled milk. It becomes clear Ilyas is trying to delay Maybe Ilyas knows this. Maybe it is what is driving
rounded by some bombed out looking concrete his marriage by procrastination. Talant tries to mo- him to find his confidence in the numerous shots
and buzzing with flies in the summer heat. I was tivate his mood with a song, the aptly titled “Kyrgyz of vodka Talant has been feeding him all day. Un-
later to read with some amusement that many his- Lads.” It’s a song that’s become popular in recent like his gold-toothed friend, he doesn’t look cut
torians believe Issyk Kul to be the origin of the Black times and shows just how much bride kidnapping out for this and is faltering, making himself scarce.
Death which spread along the Silk Road to Europe is becoming accepted in Kyrgyz society. The lyrics But when he comes back he is all smiles. “There’s
in the 14th century. My guess is that sanitary condi- go: “Grab her and run! Grab her and run! Stallions nothing to worry about,” he says, breathing chok-
tions haven’t changed much since then. should run free! Brave lads should keep their dig- ing fumes into my face. “Today we are proving
As the sun began to set, still our car bumped nity. Burning like flames, running in the wind!” ourselves as real Kyrgyz zhigits (real men).” Talant
along, and herds of sheep and goats began filling The song does its trick and soon the lads are is prepared for all danger that may come: “Even
the road. I almost sensed a certain longing from bawling it out. “We go to meet our destiny!” Talant if her relatives chase after us, we’re not afraid,” he
Sean to be among his kin as they churned up the shouts to me as they gallop off to Ilyas’s parents. I’m says laughing as usual. “We’ll talk with them …
dust, a shepherd on a horse or tiny donkey with wise to this horse game now, and wisely descend Well maybe there will be a bit of fighting first!”
big ears following behind and lazily flicking his by taxi. At Ilyas’s parents - a ramshackle house in a Old Mother comes outside to join us and piles on
whip at them. The flaming red of the setting sun sleepy village called Darhan near the lake - Ilyas’s the pressure: “Be skilful in your kidnapping. Don’t
made pink the wild and distant snowy mountains, sister Lilia is busily ordering taxis for the kidnap- make me get stressed. I want the screaming and
reflecting in the water like a dark blue mirror. The ping. The two daughters-in-law are making bor- scandal kept to a minimum.” “Haha! Don’t worry!”
whole effect was like being transported into a kind sok – special marriage bread with superstitious Talant laughs back. “There won’t be any scandal.
of broken down magical kingdom. powers that they plan to throw at the kidnapped I’ve stolen lots of girls and there’s never been a
But that was yesterday and those same moun- girl when she comes in. Ilyas’s mum and dad are problem before.“

112 Focus
Right 1 Supportive friends are on hand to help
Ilyas take courage through vodka. 2 Although
calamity strikes when one of the kidnap-mo-
biles fails to start.
Far right The kidnapping goes haywire and Il- Ilyas appears again, this time ready for his big day. As an observer, I begin to feel distinctly uncom-
yas begins to have second thoughtsv vvv Innumerable toasts are uttered taking us from day fortable. I know that whether or not I was there, this
into night as the vodka bottles empty. Many toasts would still be happening. But cowering in the base-
were made: “Here’s to your future happiness! Good ment as the clock turned past one in the morning,
luck in your choice of bride! May she respect your my translator and I are feeling as though we are on
parents and make good tea!” and the rather bizarre very shaky moral ground. We are startled from our
“Kyrgyz lads never go after the same bride twice. So whispered conversation by the sudden sound of a
let’s hope everything turns out well!” door opening and footsteps coming downstairs. It
The taxi is outside, waiting to convey Ilyas to his is Ilyas and the girl. We scarper to our car like peep-
bride. Then a battered Lada, half-rust, half-paint that ing Tom’s worried about being caught out. On the
must have seen continuous heavy action since the other radio microphone, we heard the lads in the
‘70s spluttered in. This is our car. The drivers take car plan their move. “As soon as we get to the café,
off the taxi signs, everyone gets in and the convoy we’ll kidnap her.” So the plan has changed.
leaves on its errand (mine needed to be pushed to They get the girl to the café easily enough. It
get going). The lads are busy bawling out the Kygyz all seems fine except the heavens have decided
Lads chorus “Grab her and run! Grab her and run!” to open. I crouch low behind the car, filming eve-
like football supporters off to the big game. rything from a distance trying not to get water on
I follow Ilyas and his mates in the second car, but as the lens, my translator with a pair of earphones in
we reach the nearby city of Karakol it turns out things her ears as a guide to what was happening. Sud-
aren’t going according to plan. The fat girl is nowhere denly there is a flurry of activity and a lot of running
to be seen and it’s already 10pm at night. But the lads around in the shadows cast by the café. “Where’s she
are ingenious and persuade Ilyas’s cousin to introduce gone?” “Almaz! You idiot! You’ve ruined everything.”
Ilyas to her best friend. Smartening himself up and The posse regroup, but the lads are too drunk to fig-
buying a watermelon and a bottle of wine, Ilyas dis- ure out what to do. For something that so impinges
appears up to her friend’s flat. Reluctant to be a part women’s rights I am surprised to see a woman - Il-
of the proceedings, I fix Ilyas up with a radio micro- yas’s sister Lilia - now take charge. “She cannot have
phone and huddle in the basement of the apartment got far,” she reasoned, “We will find her.”
block with my translator to listen in on his progress. This is too much for me. “What will happen if
An hour goes by as he tries to lure her outside to be they catch her?” I ask my translator. “They will take
kidnapped. “Won’t you please come to the café. It will her back to Ilyas’s house and maybe rape her.”
be fun.” Then: “It’s so stuffy here. Let’s go out for some There is a fine borderline in journalism between
fresh air.”“Why don’t you have some more wine?” knowing when to intervene and being an impas-

Focus 13
sive observer. I was no longer prepared to just watch: bundling the girl inside and pushing her into a cor- the brother, it seems, is not against kidnapping per
“You lay a finger on this girl or you bring her back, ner. She looks about nineteen. Talant is holding her se, it is just that the timing was wrong. The brother
and we’ll call the police,” I tell them. In retrospect, it fast; Ilyas watching from a comfortable distance and had been in the middle of saying prayers while kill-
wasn’t much of a threat – from all I was told, the po- looking somewhat bemused. They try to placate her, ing a sheep for the father’s funeral feast.
lice are likely to be on the guy’s side. But it seems to saying things such as: “Stay here. We’re a good fam- The brother is sent on his way, but Old Mother
work and, disappointed, the posse disband and go ily. You’ll be happy.” But it seems as if the girl’s rela- is quietly confident: “The girl will be a shame to
back to their cousin’s while we head back to for Old tives now want her back for suddenly a huge bear her parents and they will scold her. We’ll go and
Mother’s for a troubled night’s sleep. of a man advances into the room, raining fists down get her back.” Already news of the kidnapping has
I am still rubbing the sleep from my eyes and at Talant in a crazed hammer motion. “You goat!” (a spread and the first guest - an old man on a ridicu-
finishing off some tea when the gentle sound of a mortal insult in Kyrgyz) he roars impotently as Talant lously short donkey arrives.
horse eating grass is interrupted by beeping horns dances away from him. The girl flees. Ilyas just walks The odds were always stacked against the girl and
and loud Kyrgyz electro pop. I rush for my camera. away as Zhassan his brother leaps onto the man’s for almost all kidnapped women in Kyrgyzstan the
The big moment has come and I am excited and back trying to get him in a bear hug. I walk outside wheels of culture turn with bone-crushing inhuman
feel terrible at the same time. Will what I am doing force. There is nothing the girl, Guliza, can do now.
with making the film justify the moral dilemma in
making it? I feel like I am filming a sniper. A battered
“Even if her relatives chase af- The die has been cast. An hour later I watch as she
is led back in like a sheep at her parent’s orders, her
white Audi splutters in, beeping manically. Old ter us, we’re not afraid. We’ll talk head bowed as Old Mother again places the white
Mother runs for her shawl. The other young women shawl over head and intones the traditional Kyrgyz
of the house ready the borsok bread for action. A
with them. Well maybe there blessing: “May children be in front of you and ani-
gaggle of expectant middle-aged relatives gossip will be a bit of fighting first!” mals behind.” The gaggle of excitable women is busy
eagerly with each other. Talant gets out of the car, flitting around as Guliza is made to sit in a corner of
looking as if he has not slept all night and walks the room in the bridal bed that the brothers are bus-
around the other side of the car, lurking. Ilyas gets with Ilyas. His eyes are bloodshot and reeking of ily constructing. “Where are the nails?” one asks the
out and looks around, a sheepish look on his face. drink. He can’t understand what has gone wrong. “I other while holding up a lurid pink curtain that will
Talant thrusts the car door open and pulls out a didn’t steal her. She agreed to come,” he lies. Then: be used to seal the bed off from the rest of the room.
tiny girl. There is a gash below his left eye and his “That was the first time I saw her. Just then. We put Old Mother looks at me: “Don’t worry! She’ll be fine.
gold teeth are flashing. He carries the girl scream- her in a car and came here.” “What’s her name, how We were all kidnapped,” she says and then proceeds
ing to the door of the house where he sets her on old is she?” my translator asks. “I don’t know,” Ilyas to say how traumatically each of the other women in
her feet. “Ah my sweetheart!” he crows. Old Mother said. He doesn’t know her from Adam – they had the room found their husbands.
lunges in with the marriage scarf. The girl power- pretty much just taken her from the street. He is Outside, Ilyas’s father, a man conspicuous by his
less, just shouting pathetically, “Grandmother no! shaking his head, and as the commotion continues absence and bent double with a bad back, calls Il-
Not that! Please don’t put it on me. Please don’t.” inside he goes off to eat one of the apples growing yas over. “You brainless idiot! Why did you get so
The borsok bread goes flying as the other girls in the small orchard in their garden. drunk? How could you treat her like that? She’s not
laugh while chucking it at her face. Cheap wrapped I go back inside. The huge man is panting heav- an animal, not a rabbit or a chicken, but a human
chocolates are also thrown - an unexpected ad- ily and now blocked in by Old Mother, Lilia and a being. You’ve destroyed her dignity.” I find it oddly
dition. The look of sheer distress on the girl’s face small army of gossiping women. Ilyas’s sister-in- upsetting. The one person in a family you would
makes me shudder. All I am thinking is: “Forget the law kindly explains what has happened: “It’s her expect to support this kind of thing is against it,
tradition. This can’t be right. This is wrong.” brother. He’s angry because they stole her while and in his dotage is powerless to stop his energet-
The women of the house have now taken over, they were having their father’s funeral” As a man, ic old wife have her way.

114 Focus
Right Talant, the best man, reflects on a hard
day’s chase and a job well done
“I always thought that I The next day, the procession of visitors contin- smiles at us in the doorway. Guliza is already hard
ues, all pausing to congratulate Old Mother for at work – needing the dough for yet more of that
would resist, would fight her success in bagging such a good looking, hard borsok marriage bread for her wedding ceremony
and not let myself be sto- working bride. “May the white scarf never leave later that day. The cycle continues and the same
her hair!” one old dear solemnly tells her as the vil- weapon that had been used against her, she is now
len, but they steal you all lage women file in like a scene out of the Nativity. making. The twin effects of superstitious bread
the same. Women are just And what about Guliza, the girl sitting in the and scarf had violated her and got her married. I
corner while the villagers come in and inspect her was later told that when she had been pushed in
dolls to be thrown about” like a prized sheep? What is she thinking as this over the threshold of the house, she had stepped
strange foreign man interrupts her crying, coming over the fallen crusts of borsok bread. That too had
in with a video camera and asking all kinds of ob- signified something portentous. In these parts
vious questions, probably to report negatively on of the world bread is a serious weapon. Even in
her culture? What would you think if, like her, you nearby Russia, being seen throwing bread in a bin
have a boyfriend you love and have been dating for can get you beaten up. But something better than
two years and have dreams of marrying and going bread was now on the menu, as Sean, our wed-
to live in the big city? And if yesterday, a drunken ding present was being led in to the yard. At first
man you have never met before kidnapped you Sean resisted, but with a rope tied around its neck
and now your family and society declare that this he, reluctantly at first but then obediently, began
is the man you must now spend the rest of her trotting after the man with the rope and knife. His
life with? “Why am I doing this?” I ask myself. And fatty bum – the tasty bit to the Kyrgyz – wobbled
I am hating myself for being a part of this, for be- from side to side like a fat old women running on
ing there. Surely her answers are obvious. There a beach in a thong. I recalled Guliza’s explanation
are certain things that you can do to people so of why she had agreed to marry Ilyas: “I didn’t have
extreme that they will instill the same reaction in any choice, my family were mad at me. I followed
everybody. If you hit someone hard they go “Ow!” the tradition. I listened to what people said.”
not “Thankyou.” The only difference I am thinking Sean was laid out on the ground, his legs bound,
is how eloquently will Guliza express her feelings. a knife sharpened and then rested on his fleece. A
The more eloquently, the better my film and my hole was dug by his black head, and he recoiled in
career. Will anything be done to stop this even if fear at the spade cutting into the earth. Inside Old
Below All’s well that ends well for Ilyas her words are heart-breaking. Or maybe her words Mother was wondering why we were packing up
will be too predictable and the narrative drive of to leave: “Why are you leaving so early?” she said.
this whole sorry pantomime that repeats 10,000 “Come stay. Don’t leave so early. She’ll be happy.
times a year will slow down because people will When she has a child then she’ll be happy. She’ll
already know exactly how they would feel if it had learn to love.” Outside Sean’s throat was cut, the
happened to themselves. blood oozing into the hole and running into the
“I always thought that I would resist, would nearby stream. She continued, smiling: “The feast
fight and not let myself be stolen, but they steal has only just begun.”
you all the same,” she tells me between tears and My translator and I caught a battered minibus
long sighs to herself. “Women are just dolls to be to the next town along. Looking out the window
thrown about.” “I still cannot believe what’s hap- as we trundled through Ilyas’s village of Darhan I
pened. Am I really here as a new wife?” she asks watched the green mountains, the snowy peaks,
mournfully, still in disbelief about what had hap- half-standing wooden houses, the sheep and the
pened the day before. But we struggle to get that donkeys passing by - cliches of a rural life from
much out of her between the tears before the poor the middle ages. I recalled his drunk words to me
girl is led out of our interview by Lilia to start her that morning. “Kyrgyz people, you see, we live in
married life. the mountains and valleys. How are we going to
I find Old Mother looking very happy and find girls to date? Where are the girls? This is why
watching her new charge with contentment. She we have to steal brides.” I sat back, tired and emo-
has at last found the domestic helper she was so tional, and tried to come to a conclusion about
looking forward to and can now happily retire. She what I had seen.

THE GUIDE Bishkek life
Bars and
restaurants
Ak-Bata (108, Ibraimova)
Chinese
This place must serve up pretty authentic dishes

as it’s always full of Chinese playing mah-jong and
waving their chopsticks about. Smoky and stuffy,
There’s a fine line between ‘bar’ and ‘restaurant’ in but in a nice way. $
Bishkek. Places more suitable for drinking sessions
are highlighted orange. Goin (Jibek Jolu/Sovietskaya)
Although advertised as a 24-hour joint, Goin tends
to shut if business is slow. Nevertheless, find your
Price Guide (main course, garnish & drink) way to this little-known gem (upstairs past the
$ - Expect change from 150 som paintings of scantily clad ladies and on your right)
$$ - A little over 200 should do the trick and you’ll discover that the food is fantastic value
$$$ - Expect to pay in the region of 350 for money. Portions are often so large, doggy bags
$$$$ - A crisp 500 (or more) needed in this joint are in order. Interesting Chinese delicacies and
huge pots of tea aplenty. $
Peking Duck I & II
(Soviet/Druzhba & Chui/Tog. Mol.)
American Huge portions to feed even the biggest of glut-
tons and an English language menu that provides
Cowboy (Toktogul/Orozbekova) plenty of amusing translations. Dancing occasion-
Bishkek’s all-American restaurant-cum-dance club ally kicks off on more raucous evenings. $$
has now gone a little more up-market, but wild
nights are still to be had. Dig in to a kilo of chicken
wings and then hit the dance floor. $$$ Dungan
Hollywood (Druzhba/Sovietskaya) Luk-Fu (Orozbekova/Kievskaya)
As you would probably guess, decorated with In many Bishkek joints the lepyoshka is stale and
movie posters, photos of cinema icons and a the service makes you look for candid cameras. At
bunch of American kitsch. Hollywood is popular Luk-Fu, despite its stolovaya atmosphere, not so.
with a younger crowd and is usually packed from Add to that generous portions and cheap prices
mid-evening onwards. A fun place for a few drinks and the place is a pearl. One of few establishments
before heading off to the clubs. $$ offering satisfying vegetarian meals, such as the
tofu po-domashnemu. Watch out for slippery floors
Metro (133, Chui) and dodgy Karaoke in the evenings. $
In the impressive location of a former theatre, Met-
ro remains the première drinking hole for ex-pats. Hui Min (Ibraimova/Frunze - next to Beirut)
A high ceiling, a long bar and friendly staff compli- Don’t be put off by the slightly decrepit feel to this
ment a good Tex-Mex menu and a wide selection place, they serve up some damn fine Dungan eat-
of drinks. Metro is one of the best bets for catching. Try the gan-fan (meat, peppers, spices, rice),
ing sporting events on TV, although thanks to the its big enough to keep you going all day and you’ll
hideously late kickoff times for Champions League get change from a ton. Also, ask for the special
football matches, don’t count on the staff waiting Dungan tea, it’s rather good. $
up unless it’s a big one. $$$
New York Pizza (177, Kievskaya)

Georgian
Decorated with pictures of the Big Apple and serv- Mimino (27, Kievskaya)
ing a fine selection of steaks and other American- Re-opening soon we’re told, Mimino is nice, cosy and
themed dishes, NYP is sure to get New Yorkers serves up bowl-fulls of steaming, hearty Georgian fare
thinking of home. Also serves what many believe with pomegranate seeds a-plenty. We recommend
to be the best pizza in town. $$$ the Georgian cheese bread and anything that’s served
in a pot. Watch out for Uncle Joe at the door. $$$
Armenian
Landau (Manas/Gorky)
German
Fancy something a little different? If you can tol- Steinbrau (5, Gerzena)
erate the arthritic service, Landau isn’t a bad spot Don your beer drinking trousers and head down to
for a pork steak or some other Armenian culinary Bishkek’s take on a Bavarian-style beer hall. They brew
goodies. Also, treat yourself to some decent Arme- their own stuff - such a relief from the insipid bilge
nian conjac whilst your here, you’ll never go near that’s normally sold as lager. Compliment your pint
Bishkek conjac again. Ever. $$$ with a plate of German sausage with sauerkraut. $$$

16 Bars, Restaurants & Clubs
Pit Stop (Toktogul/Orozbekova)
International Fatboy’s (Chui/Tynastanova)
Civilised, friendly cafe bang in the middle of town Open 24-hours. Stands out for its rather expensive
No. 1 (Gorky/Sovietskaya) and a popular ex-pat meeting point. Sensible spot drinks, its big Michael Shumacher poster and the
A Beatles themed bar to make Bishkek scousers feel for conversation, but if you’re alone there’s a mini- home-made formula 1 decorations. Classy. $$$
at home. Huge screen outside for sporting events. library to peruse (although literary classics are thin Stary Edgar’s (15, Panfilova)
Shashlyk and cool beer. $$ on the ground). Check out the American pancakes The concrete monstrosity of the Russian Theatre con-
for breakfast, top marks. $$$ ceals one of Bishkek’s finest attempts at a cosy base-
2x2 (Isanova/Chui)
ment bar. Friendly staff, a decent menu and a collection
Trendy drinking hole with a circular bar and friend-
Four Seasons (116a, Tynystanova) of old bits and bobs decorating the walls make Edgar’s
ly staff. A good place for knocking back a few pre-
One of the poshest places to eat out in Bishkek. an attractive alternative to the city’s mainstream cafés.
nightclub cocktails. Slouch into one of the comfy
Elegant, yet modern interior and polite service. A blues band plays most nights and a pianist adds a
lounge seats and try to look cool. $$$
Great place to splash out on a special occasion or romantic ambience on some Sunday evenings. $$$
Avant Gard (127, Sovietskaya) just for the hell of it. $$$$
U Mazovaya (Behind ‘Zaks’ on Sovietskaya)
We’re not so sure what’s so avant-garde about Possibly Central Asia’s only rabbit themed restau-
Live Bar (Kulatova)
Avant-Gard. They put candles on the tables in the
24 hour sports bar with live music at weekends. rant. Descend into this underground warren and
evenings, but there is a distinct lack of Parisian
Plenty of leather couches provide the ideal place tuck in. $$
Bohemians. Still, the food is fine and the relaxed
to sip cocktails whilst watching the Champions
ambience means AG is a good place for a conver- Veranda (Gorky/Soviet. Vefa Centre roof )
league at 3 in the morning. $$
sation, or a debate on existentialism. $$ Wow, what a view. Eat rather decent international
cuisine whilst taking in a superb view of the moun-
Boulevard (Erkindik/Kievskaya)
A small stylish restaurant, offering a refined atmo-
MK International offers: tains from the 4th floor terrace above the Vefa centre.
Now the weather isn’t so bloody hot, this is a great
sphere, delicious cakes and wi-fi internet. By Bishkek • American Courses--English Language Courses place to spend a sunny afternoon. $$$$
standards, the service is usually excellent. $$$$ • Work & Travel Programs
• Work & Study Programs Italian
Captain Nemo’s (14, Togolok Moldo) • English Language Courses in the US, UK and Europe
Small nautically themed restaurant with a selection • Au-pair Programs Adriatico (219, Chui)
of evocatively named dishes including ‘Fish from the • Preparation for any kind of programs Classy restaurant with it’s own Italian chef. Great
ship’s boy’ and ‘Tongue from the boatswain’s wife’. pizza, improved service, and a fine selection of
Cosy wooden interior and porthole style windows E-mail: americancourses@yahoo.com pasta dishes. $$$
create a hybrid underwater log cabin experience. Office Tel: 61-41-96
Cyclone (136, Chui)
Spirits, cocktails and a good business lunch. $$$
Smart Italian restaurant with plush interior, effi-
cient, polite serving staff and a warm atmosphere
Coffee House (9, Manas)
to alleviate Bishkek’s winter chills. Pasta dishes
Treat yourself to some of the finest coffee and
stand out among a menu of traditional Italian fa-
cakes Bishkek has to offer at the imaginatively
vourites. $$$
named ‘Coffee House’, a cosy boutique café with a
European flavour. Curl up and read a book, or just
Dolce Vita (116a, Akhunbaeva)
drop in for a caffeine hit and a chocolate fix. $$$
Cosy Italian restaurant with smiling waitresses
Concord (Alatoo Square) serving excellent pizza. Also serves salads and Eu-
Waiting staff dressed as airline stewards and an in- ropean cuisine. Small terrace outside for summer-
terior featuring some aeronautical paraphernalia time dining. $$
attempt to lend a little glamour to this small diner
just off Ala-too Square. Good, cheap food and fur- Lounge Bar (338a, Frunze) Japanese
ther deals for lunch during midweek make this a One of our favourite places to drink in the Sum-
popular spot during the daytime. $$ mertime, when we can afford it. Outdoor balcony-
Aoyama (93, Toktogula)
cum-terrace high above the street with slouch-
Doka Pizza (97, Akhunbaeva) Posh sushi place full of fat, suited-types talking
couches and fine veiws of the circus - which you
The ever-popular Doka Pizza, open non-stop, pro- in low voices. The foods good though - if you can
can sometimes smell in the summer. Nice. $$$
vides decent live music on most nights and a wid- scrape together enough soms. $$$$
eranging menu. There’s a large eating area outside Meri (33, Gorkova)
that’s open in the summer with a garden, stage In the summer months, Meri has one of the prettiest
and kids play area. Both Doka restaurants do a dining areas in Bishkek. International cuisine served 24
good ‘beeznes lanch’ before 4pm. $$$ hours a day, more lively nights see jiving on the dance
floor to all your favourite Kyrgyz pop tunes. $$$
Doka Pizza (153, Kievskaya)
More sexed up than its Akhunbaeva sister bar, Navigator (103, Moskovskaya)
there’s a strip bar downstairs, Doka Kievskaya is A pricey, but pleasant place to while away an af- Korean
often a post-party chillout venue for Bishkek’s ternoon. Sit in the bar area over a beer or lounge Petel (52, Zhykeeva Pudovkin)
young, rich kids. Enjoy the good food, the lively in the airy non-smoking conservatory. Attentive Operating in the back room of a Korean family’s
vibe, and the coquettish waitresses – just don’t service and a refreshing selection of salads, a good house, this is Korean style home-cooking at its
break your beer glass, there’s a stiff fine. Also place for a light, healthy lunch when fat and grease most personal. Closed all day Sunday. Ring: 0543
non-stop. $$$
Spektator
are getting you down. $$$ 922539 $$
THE
.com
Find the best bars in town with the Spektator and thespektator.com

Bars, Restaurants & Clubs 17
Santa Maria (217, Chui) Arbat (9, Karl Marks)
Plush Korean restaurant with two main dining
rooms, function room and a casino out back. Usual
Eastern favourites, including Korean barbecue,
Jetigen Tel. 512094; 512087
Smart ‘elite’ club popular with a slightly older
crowd. Strip bar and restaurant in same building.
plus an extensive European menu. $$$ We invite you to try our homemade (Entrance charge 200/350 som midweek, 350/450
Kyrgyz specials in our newly opened som Fri/Sat. Strip bar 700 som)
Lebanese family restaurant City Club (85/1, Zhukeyeva-Pudovkina)
Tel. 511513; 510581
Beirut (Shevchenko/Frunze) Local specials to eat in or take away for So exclusive it makes the Spektator crowd feel like
Now in a new location, Beirut continues to serve less than 100som! cheap scum bags, City Club is one of the posh-
enticing Lebanese goodies including falaffle, hu-
mus, and tasty little meat pie things. $$$ Gorky st. / Panfilova st. est clubs in town. Get past the ‘face control’ (ugly
people beware) and spend your evening with gang-
ster types, lecherous diplomats, Kazakh business-
Regional/Central Asian men and a posse of young rich kids who all seem
to have studied in London... (Entrance charge: girls
Arabica (Sovietskaya/Kulatova) 200/boys 300, Fri/Sat girls 300/boys 500
Descend the steps into an aromatic cloud of hooka
smoke. The music’s normally reasonably decent Golden Bull (Chui/Togolok Moldo)
chilled out sort of stuff, the food’s good, and the Tel. 620131
waitresses smile. $$$ A Bishkek institution. Full of ex-pats and tourists
literally every night of the week. Long bar, friendly
Arzu-II (Sovietskaya/Lev Tolstoy bridge) staff, cheapish beer, everyone’s happy. (Entrance
Twenty-four hour joint that’s a godsend for those charge [girls/boys] free/400 midweek, 150/400 Fri/
who get cravings for lagman or manty at four in Sat. ‘Foreigners’ free.)
the morning. Sometimes smoking isn’t allowed, Turkish
sometimes it is, however the food and prices are Ibiza (9, Kulatova)
constantly pretty good. Comfy booth style seats Carlson (166, Sovietskaya) A cavernous space with a large dance floor. Danc-
to dig yourself into after a heavy night. $$ Great outdoor eating area. We recommend the ers suspended on platforms 15 feet above the
tavuk sote (chicken, peppers, tomatoes) and a big floor, strobe lighting, smoke machines and bang-
Arzu-I (Togolok Moldo, next to the stadium) lavash bread - a good feed. A good outdoor ter- ing dance tunes. Bishkek’s attempt to create a lit-
Offers a hearty selection of Kyrgyz and European race, but be prepared to be serenaded by god-aw- tle bit of the party island. Efforts to negotiate a
dishes and a homely atmosphere. It’s probably a ful Karaoke style crooners. $$ cheaper entrance fee are futile. (Entrance charge
little too chilly for al fresco dining these days, but Ibrahim (Gorkova/Oshskaya) 350-400 som)
there’s also a great outdoor terrace. $$ Several dining rooms including private booths and Retro Metro (24, Mira)
Jalalabad (Togolok Moldo/Kievskaya) a covered outdoor terrace with an extravagant wa- www.retrometro.kg
Basically the cheapest food (that won’t give you gut terfall fountain to help you keep cool while tuck- Bright, happy, 80’s kitsch bar, the DJ spins his rec-
rot) in the centre of town. While it should stand out ing into your kebabs in the summer. $$ ords from inside the front of a VW camper van. One
for its fresh lagman, Jalalabad is sometimes over- of the most popular places for post-2am partying.
Istanbul (48, Chui) (Entrance charge: 200/300 som midweek, 350/450
looked. Probably at its best in summer, when the
Discretely tucked away on Chui Prospekt, Istanbul som Fri/Sat. Reservation price 200 som)
shashlyk masters flanking the entrance offer their
is a low key cafe offering tasty Turkish cuisine. Puff
creations straight to guests sitting at Eastern-style
away on a hookah pipe or slurp lentil soup to your
tables – cross your legs and see how long you can
heart’s content, all at a nice price. $$
Live Music
last before cramp sets in. $ Promzona (16, Cholpon-Atinskaya)
Jetigen (Gorky/Logvinenko) Konak (Sovietskaya/Gorkova) www.promzona.kg
A new place offering European cuisine as well as This Turkish joint used to be ‘Restaurant Camelot’ Promzona’s far-flung location sadly means a taxi
the usual local specials. Stands out for it’s deli- hence the incongruous suits of armour in the back ride or a long walk home are in order at the end
cious lagman, fresh lepyoshka bread, and attentive room, and the rather crappy castle facade. However, of a night. Nevertheless, this trendy live music
service. $ the food is often great, the salads are large and fresh, venue has a lot going for it: good bands, an exten-
and the staff are always pleasant. Recommended! $$ sive menu, and a hip industrial interior featuring,
Smile (Chui/Sovietskaya) strangely, a wind tunnel fan, make this one of the
Despite the name, you’ll be lucky to see one on the
Night best nights out in Bishkek. Tuesday is Jazz night.
Clubs
waitresses face. Nevertheless, if it’s decent cheap Rock or blues bands normally play at the week-
food you’re after, this isn’t a bad place to look. The ends. (Music charge 200 som)
eggs are just as good as those at Fatboys next door,
and half the price. Think about it. $ Tequila Blues (Turesbekova/Engels)
There are some Bishkek old-hands who say that Re-opening soon. A possible misnomer, the tequila
things aren’t what they used to be when it comes is just fine, but the blues is pretty much non-existent.
Russian/Ukrainian to nightlife in Bishkek. They talk of legendary nights Young Russian studenty types mosh away the nights
of carnage, vomit, and debauchery - delights that to rock bands in an atmospheric underground bun-
Russky Dvor (Kievskaya/Togolok Moldo) contemporary Bishkek struggles to offer. ker. Weekends are not for the fainthearted, or the
Refined restaurant serving Russian specialities. Not so, we say. Take your pick from the list below claustrophobic. (Entrance charge 100-150 som)
$$$ and we’re sure there’s still enough carnage, vomit
and debauchery in town to keep everyone happy. Zeppelin (43, Chui)
Taras Bulba (Manas/Jibek Jolu) Zeppelin is in the same vein as Tequila Blues but
We haven’t had time to check this Ukrainian place not quite so spit and sawdust. On the nights we’ve
out yet - although the word is that it’s well worth Discoklubs visited, there’s been a line up of young rock or punk
stopping by for a borsht po-ukrainski. bands strutting their stuff, heavier beats seem to
Apple (28, Manas)
Fat, old, lecherous foreigners not welcome, this go down best with the young Russian crowd. Full
Zaporyzhia (Mira)
restaurant menu.
Recently opened, Zaporyzhia is a cossack fla- place is for a younger cooler crowd. Multiple bars,
(Entrance charge 100-150 som)
voured restauraunt in a varnish scented log cabin. large dance floor, friendly atmosphere. Thursday
Hearty rustic dishes and a homely atmosphere. usually a big night. (Entrance charge 100-200 Live music also common at Doka Pizza Akhun-
Recommended! $$$ som) bayeva and Stary Edgar (see ‘bars/restaurants’)

18 What’s On
Saturday, Nov 29
Tales from the Vienna Woods
Ballet by Johan Strauss II
Opera Ballet, 167 Abdyrahmanova, 17:00
Tel. 66 15 48
Sunday, Nov 30
Swan Lake
1st-14th November Saturday, Nov 15 Ballet by Piotr Tchaikovsky
Photo Exhibition Classical Music Concert Opera Ballet, 167 Abdyrahmanova, 17:00
People & Places: Ways of Living Around the World Kyrgyz state Philharmonic Tel. 66 15 48
Photographs taken by Swiss photographer Daniel Chui Prospect, 253
Masseli.
Bishkek Art Centret, 1 Karasaeva Street
Tel: 212262, 212235
17:00, Tickets 150 som Entertainment
10:00 - 18:00 Tues-Sun (closed all day Mon.)
Promzona’s 3rd Anniversary Directory
Sergey Galinin (Rock Concert)
Thursday, Nov 6 Sergey Galinin, the Russian ‘rock legend’, will be
The Conservatory
playing Promzona with his band to celebrate the
Rememberance Service Jantosheva, 115
club’s third anniversary.
Commemorating the November Revolution Tel: 479542
Promzona Club, 16 Cholpon-Atinskaya, 21:00
Events throughout the city, including a service at Tickets 2500 som per person (or 750 for a seat at Concerts by students and professors.
the history museum. on Alatoo Square. the bar) The Puppet Theatre
Giselle Sovietskaya/Michurina
7th-9th November Ballet by Adolph Adan Performances on Sundays at 11:00am.
KVN - “Club of the Happy and Inventive” Tel. 66 15 48
Kyrgyz State Philharmonic
Russian humour TV show filming in Bishkek Chui Prospect, 253
Tel: 212262, 212235
Gameshow in which teams (usually of students)
compete by giving funny answers to questions,
Thursday, Nov 20 Hours: 17:00-19:00 in summer
iperforming mprovisations, and prepared sketch- Tickets: 70-100 som (sometimes much more for
es. After being banned in 1972 for being anti-So-
Concert by Svetlana Gusarovoy (soprano) special performances)
Arias, songs and romances There are two concert halls featuring classical, tra-
viet, KVN was restored eleven years later and con-
Opera Ballet, 167 Abdyrahmanova, 18:00 ditional Kyrgyz, and pop concerts and a variety of
tinues to be phenomenally popular throughout
Tel. 66 15 48 shows.
the CIS to this day.
Dvorets Sporta, 18:00 each night
Tickets100 som
Saturday, Nov 22 Russian Drama Theatre
Tynystanova, 122 (Situated in Oak Park)
Aida Tel.: 662032, 621571
Saturday, Nov 8 Opera by Guiseppe Verdi Hours: Mon-Sun, 10:00-18:00
Jazz Concert Opera Ballet, 167 Abdyrahmanova, 17:00 Tickets 30-100 som
An Evening of German Jazz Tel. 66 15 48 A range of local and international plays in Russian.
Tel. 66 15 48
Sunday, Nov 23 The Abdylas Maldybaev Opera and Ballet Theatre
Abdyrahmanova, 167
Cholpon Tel: 661548; Tickets 50-300 som
Sunday, Nov 9 Ballet by Mikhail Raukhverger The theatre has resident opera and ballet compa-
Opera Ballet, 167 Abdyrahmanova, 17:00 nies with occasional guest companies. The season
Swan Lake Tel. 66 15 48 usually runs from autumn to spring but there are
Ballet by Piotr Tchaikovsky often performances at other times of the year as
Opera Ballet, 167 Abdyrahmanova, 17:00 28th-30th November well.
Tel. 66 15 48
Premiere: The Marriage The Kyrgyz Drama Theatre
A play by Nikolai Gogol (in Russian) Panfilov, 273 (behind the Government House)
Friday, Nov 14 A satire of courtship and cowardice that centres Tel: 665802, 216958
around a young woman Agafya who is wooed by Hours: 8:00-20:00 in summer
Servant and Master four bachelors, each with his own idiosyncrasies. Tickets 20-200 som
Opera by Giovanni Battista Piergolesi Russian Drama Theatre, 122 Tynystanova The resident company performs a range of local
Opera Ballet, 167 Abdyrahmanova, 17:00 Playing each nght at 18:00, Tickets 50-300 som and international plays – performances are in Kyr-
Tel. 66 15 48 Tel: 662032, 621571 gyz or Russian.
Adverts, Services & Classifieds

English Lessons The Spektator Proofreading Services
Classified Ads Pre-intermediate, intermediate, and FCE exam Have your documents proofread by native Eng-
Place a classified advert (buying, sell- courses lish speaking professionals.
ing, services etc.) from only 150 som Qualified English teacher with over four years’ Our team can proofread anything in English in-
Email: tom_wellings@live.co.uk experience available for one-on-one lessons from cluding: university essays, menus, technical docu-
400 som per hour. Will also teach small groups ments and contracts. Typical A4 page of text from
Lonely hearts of 2-3 students from 500-600 som per hour. Free 200 som.
Sad bastard looking for a friend: splikhvi@hot- consultation. Email tom_wellings@live.co.uk or tel. 0550991945
mail.com (No time wasters) Email cacartoons@gmail.com

Map 19
a rdia aya Gvardia
Molodaya Gv Molod
Jibek
Jolu
Kievskaya
The mountains
Chui
Engelsa
Lva Tolstogo
Toktogula
a n a s ave.
M
ve.
Manas a
Ryskulova
Jumabe
a n a s ave.
M
Kievskaya
Moskovskaya
Isanova
k
T. Abdymom
Isanova Koenkozo
va
Isanova
Dvorets
Sporta
u
nov stadium
old o
Togolok M
Jibe
Michael Frunze
Spartak
k Jo
Chui
Toktogula
lu
k o
Logvinen
Moskovskaya
Panfilova
va
Panfilova Orozbeko
Juma
Baeto
Lva Tolstog
va
Orozbeko a
Razzakov
Bokonbaeva
bek
va
a
Razzakov
Erkindik
Abdym
Erkindik
Tugolbay
Michae
om
o
l Frunze
unova
a ova
Fatianov Tynystan
ova
Tynystan
AYA
SOVETSK
AYA
Circus
SOV E TS K
Chui
YA
Kievskaya
V E TS K A
SO aeva Shopoko
va
A. Usenb
Toktogula
Lva
va
Shopoko
Pravda
a
Elebaev
Tol
Pravda
Jumab
s
lya
Gogo
tog
Ogonbae
Moskovskaya
ek
o
North
Bokonbaeva
lya
Gogo
va

20 Weekend The End
Quick crossword no. 11,965
crossword quick quiz Was Volodya A Government Killer?
This is my area. I know a lot of people here,” Volodya
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1. Which dimension can not be the taxi driver began. “Those two are prostitutes. I
measured in inches? know because I often take them from place to place.”
8 2. What was the name of Hamlet’s It’s late at night and I’m catching a ride back home
9
Quick crossword
10
no. 11,965 father? after a date.
3. Sayonara is goodbye in which “You should be careful after dark,” he warns me in
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 language? a conspiratorial way. The two girls lurch drunkenly
8
4. What breed of dog do you get by into the darkness of a small park by the road. “Lately
11 crossing a greyhound with a collie? here in Bishkek a lot of idiots have appeared who will
9 10 5. ‘The Shootist’ was which Holly- ambush you in the streets and take your money.”
12 wood legend’s last film? I ask Volodya if he’s not afraid to drive his taxi at
6. Who is the new champion of For- night. “Can you fight well?” I ask. Volodya, in his stripy
13 14 15
11 mula One? blue and white T-shirt and greying moustache, sur-
16
7. Which sexy Russo-Ukrianian rounded by the beaten up metal and plastic of a So-
12
pop trio have released albums in- viet-era taxi looks at me: “I know how to kill well,” he
17 18
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16 19 8. Who was Time magazine’s ‘man the special foreign service. Now I’m on a pension and
17 18 of the year’ in both 1939 and 1942? I drive a taxi. We had special psychological training.
20 21 We were taught not to feel fear. How is that human?
19 ton; 7 — Via Gra; 8 — Jozef Stalin They made monsters out of us. Machines to kill!”
— John Wayne; 6 — Lewis Hamil- Volodya continues his story. He left the special
20 21
service twenty years ago for psychological reasons -
22 23
let; 3 — Japanese; 4 — a lurcher; 5
Answers: 1 — the fourth; 2 — Ham- presumably after killing so many people. I looked at
him. He didn’t look the type, but had a big build and
22 23 thick arms. He lit a cigarette and we approached the
Answers
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Hot water and
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1 Refraining from sex (8)
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13 Fall in 11
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17 Breeding timesense
14 Sixth (6,6) believer? (6)
20 Du Maurier noveltime
17 Breeding — (6,6) Want more? Access over 4,000 archive puzzles 8 4 5 “I finished five universities,” Volodya continued,
Hitchcock
20 Duthriller
Maurier(7)novel — at guardian.co.uk/crossword.
Want more? Access over 4,000 archive puzzles “Two in Moscow University and the rest here in Kyr-
9 8 7 4
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21 Nepal’s neighbour (5) at guardian.co.uk/crossword.
338 248.Stuck?
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call our minute line
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09068 gyzia.” I wondered why he had joined an elite divi-
21 Nepal’s neighbour (5)
crossword clues
22 Bit of fun — early-rising Service supplied

338 248. by ATS.
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sion whose speciality was to kill people.
22 Bit of fun — early-rising Buy 10 greatService supplied puzzle
by ATS. books for
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8 “Honour,” the reply shot back. “I was the fourth
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23 15 guardianbooks.co.uk or call 0870 836 0749 generation of my family to serve. My daughter serves
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Solution No 11,964 6 3 5 7 and continues the tradition. I’m not proud of what I
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all good or bad for the Soviet Union.
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me (6,6) ment. I could hear a group of lads going past fol-
novel —
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at guardian.co.uk/crossword. 9 lowed by the sound of spit being sucked back in the
Stuck? Then call our solutions line on 09068
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mouth and let loose on the street. Volodya was on
early-rising
and 75 spoke Apache. At least how many spoke
Service supplied by ATS. 2
338 248. Calls cost 60p per minute at all times.
8 his third cigarette by now. It was late and my con-
Buy 10 great Guardian puzzle books for centration switched back to him: “… and that was
all three languages?only £20 inc p&p (save over £50). Visit
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November 2008 The SpektatorA L S Y www.thespektator.com

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THE Spektator 40 som/сом

Your monthly guide to what’s happening in and around Bishkek

Plus: Shyrdak secrets, Talons and tourism, Glacier hikes

Central Asian Mountain Partnership

Out & About

Lets all buy a shyrdak

Talons and tourism

www.thespektator.com November 2008 The Spektator

November 2008 The Spektator www.thespektator.com

BISHKEK, Oct 28 (IWPR) - Officials in Kyrgyzstan

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November 2008 The Spektator www.thespektator.com

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November 2008 The Spektator www.thespektator.com

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This place must serve up pretty authentic dishes

New York Pizza (177, Kievskaya)

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November 2008 The Spektator www.thespektator.com

www.thespektator.com November 2008 The Spektator

Adverts, Services & Classifieds

November 2008 The Spektator www.thespektator.com

www.thespektator.com November 2008 The Spektator

22 Bit of fun — early-rising Service supplied

tress for kids I S N A B O U

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