elton

pullover
knitting pattern by
J OJ I LOCAT E L L I 1
 elton
This light pullover was inspired by my
original design, the Elton Cardigan.
It features the simplest stripes, but I used
two very di erent yarns: a ngering weight
(which shows as solid bands) and a lace
weight mohair (see through) creating a
delicate game of texture.
The resulting sweater is light as air.

2
ff
fi
 elton pullover

SIZES 1095, 1204, 1314, 1387, 1460) m] of ngering weight

yarn [main yarn] and 392 (441, 490, 539, 588, 661,
1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10). Shown in size 3 on a 36”
735, 808, 882, 980) yards [335 (377, 419, 461, 503,
bust.
565, 628, 691, 754, 838) m] of lace weight yarn
Recommended ease: Approx. 16” (40 cm) of positive [contrasting yarn] .
ease.
Sample shown in Tosh Merino Light color Silver
Lining and Fae color Bone.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Needles: US 2½ [3 mm] and 4 [3.5 mm] circular
Bust circumference: 44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, needles, 32" long. You will need a spare needle size
76, 80)" [110 (120, 130, 140, 150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 2½ [3 mm] if you plan to use a tubular bind o as
200) cm]. show in the sample.

Armhole Depth: 4¾ (5¼, 5½, 6¼, 6¾, 7¼, 8, 8½, 9¼, Other notions: Stitch holders, tapestry needle.
10)" [12 (13, 14, 15.5, 17, 18, 20, 21.5, 23, 25) cm].

Sleeve circumference (starts mid-arm): 9½ (10½, 11½, GAUGE

12½, 13½, 14½, 16, 17¼, 18½, 20)" [24 (26.5, 29, 31,
20.5 sts and 36 rows to 4” (10cm) in stockinette stitch
33.5, 36, 40, 43, 46.5, 50.5) cm].
in the round on a big circumference with US 4 [3.5
Sleeve length from underarm to cu : 10" [25 cm]. mm] needles (body), stretching out the fabric
Length from underarm to hem: 13½ (14, 14½, 14½, horizontally when blocking.
15½, 15½, 16½, 16½, 17½, 17½)" [34 (35, 36.5, 36.5, 39, 25 sts and 36 rows to 4" (10cm) in stockinette stitch
39, 41.5, 41.5, 44, 44) cm]. in the round on a small circumference with US 4 [3.5
mm)]needles (sleeves) without stretching the fabric
when blocking (this creates a more dense fabric for
MATERIALS
the sleeves, which works better for this design).
Yarn: 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) skeins of [main yarn]
Tosh Merino Light by Madelinetosh (100% merino -
100g /420y [384m]) and 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2)
skeins of [contrasting yarn] Fae by Ritual Dyes (72%
mohair / 28% silk - 50g / 459y [419m]).

Or approx. 640 (720, 800, 880, 1000, 1200, 1320,

1440, 1520, 1600) yards [584 (657, 730, 803, 912,

3
ff
fi
ff
 DIRECTIONS Row 2 (WS): P36 (36, 38, 38, 40, 42, 42, 44, 44,
46), wrap next st and turn (see Glossary).
This pullover is worked from the top down in
one piece. The construction starts at the Row 3: K to last wrapped st and knit it tog with
shoulders, with some short rows, while using its corresponding wrap, k5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10,
only the main yarn. After the short rows, you 10), w&t.
begin using both yarns. Row 4: P to last wrapped st and purl it tog with
The back and the front are worked separately its corresponding wrap, p5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10,
down to the armholes and then everything is 10), w&t.
joined to complete the body in the round. The Repeat the last 2 rows 5 more times.
sleeves are later picked up around the armholes Next row (RS): K to the end of row, picking up
and also worked in the round. last wrap as you nd it.
All the ribbing bands in the pattern are nished Next row (WS): P to the end of row picking up
with a tubular bind o for a more professional last wrap as you nd it.
nish, but you can bind o with any technique
Note: For the following section I recommend
that you like.
carrying the color you are not using up the side
of your work.
Right Back Shoulder Switch to contrasting yarn and work 4 rows in
With main yarn and using your US 4 [3.5mm] stockinette stitch. Switch back to main yarn and
needles CO 40 (45, 48, 54, 58, 61, 66, 70, 75, work 4 rows in stockinette stitch. From now on
79) stitches. you will continue to stripe both yarns making 4-
Row 1 (RS): Knit to end. row stripes.
Row 2 (WS): P to end. Work in pattern until the piece measures 4¾
(5¼, 5½, 6¼, 6¾, 7¼, 8, 8½, 9¼, 10)" [12 (13, 14,
Row 3: Using the cable CO, CO 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4,
15.5, 17, 18, 20, 21.5, 23, 25) cm] from your CO
4, 4, 4, 4), k to end.
edge, measured along the selvedge, ending
Row 4: Purl to end.
with a WS row.
You should have 42 (47, 51, 57, 61, 65, 70, 74, 79,
Break yarn and put all sts on hold.
83) sts. Break yarn and put all sts on hold.

Left Front
Left Back Shoulder
With main yarn and starting at the neck edge
With main yarn and using your US 4 [3.5mm]
and with the RS facing you, pick up and knit 40
needles CO 40 (45, 48, 54, 58, 61, 66, 70, 75,
(45, 48, 54, 58, 61, 66, 70, 75, 79) sts along the
79) stitches.
left shoulder CO edge.
Row 1 (RS): K to end.
Row 1 (WS): P to end.
Row 2 (WS): P to end.
Work 2 more rows in stockinette st.
Row 3: K to end.
Row 4 (RS): K6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11), w&t.
Row 4: With cable CO, CO2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4,
Row 5 (WS): P to end.
4), purl to end.
Row 6: K to last wrapped st and knit it tog with
You should have 42 (47, 51, 57, 61, 65, 70, 74, 79,
its corresponding wrap, k5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10,
83) sts. Do not break yarn.
10), w&t.
Row 7: P to end.
Join Shoulders
Row 1 (RS): K to end. CO 28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 34,
34, 36, 36, 38) new sts using the cable CO.
Place the sts for the right shoulder on the
needle, k4, w&t. You should have 112 (122, 132,
144, 154, 164, 174, 184, 194, 204) sts.

4
fi
fi
fi
ff
ff
fi
 Repeat the last 2 rows 4 more times. Join Fronts
Row 16 (RS): K2, m1r, k to last wrapped st and Next row (RS): K to end. With backwards loop,
knit it tog with its corresponding wrap, k to end. CO 8 sts. Place the sts you had on hold for the
Row 17 (WS): P to end. left front back on the left needle and k to end of
row.
Row 18: K2, m1r, k to end.
You should have 112 (122, 132, 144, 154, 164, 174,
Row 19: P to end.
184, 194, 204) sts.
Start striping with contrasting yarn every 4 rows.
Continue working in Stockinette st, striping
Row 20: K2, m1r, k to end. yarns every 4 rows until work measures 4¾ (5¼,
Row 21: P to 2 sts before the end of row, m1pr, 5½, 6¼, 6¾, 7¼, 8, 8½, 9¼, 10)" [12 (13, 14, 15.5,
p2. 17, 18, 20, 21.5, 23, 25) cm] from your CO edge,
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 more times. measured along the selvedge, ending with the
same row as you did for the back piece.
Row 28 (RS): CO 2 (2, 4, 4, 5, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9), k to
end of row.
Row 29 (WS): P to end of row. Join Body
You should have 52 (57, 62, 68, 73, 78, 83, 88, Continue to change your yarns every 4 rows
93, 98) sts. throughout this section.
Break yarn and put all sts on hold. Next row: K to end of row. Place the sts you had
on hold from the back onto the needles, k to
end. Place marker and join for working in the
Right Front
round.
With main yarn and starting at the armhole edge
You should have 224 (244, 264, 288, 308, 328,
and with the RS facing you, pick up and knit 40
348, 368, 388, 408) sts on the needles.
(45, 48, 54, 58, 61, 66, 70, 75, 79) sts along the
Work in stockinette stitch until your work
right shoulder CO edge.
measures 13 (13½, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17,
Row 1 (WS): P to end.
17)" [32.5 (33.5, 35, 35, 37.5, 37.5, 40, 40, 42.5,
Work 3 more rows in stockinette st. 42.5) cm] from the armhole, ending with 2 rows
Row 5 (WS): P6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11), w&t. of main yarn.
Row 6: K to end. Change to US 2½ [3mm] needles and work
Row 7: P to last wrapped st and purl it tog with hem using the main yarn only.
its corresponding wrap, p5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, Next round: (K1, p1) to end of round.
10) w&t. Work 6 more rounds in the established 1x1
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 more times. ribbing.
Row 16 (RS): K to 2 st from end, m1l, k2. Work tubular bind o following the instructions
Row 17 (WS): P to last wrapped st and purl it tog in the Glossary, or work one more row and then
with its corresponding wrap, p to end. bind o in pattern.

Row 18: K to 2 st from end, m1l, k2.

Row 19: P to end.
Start striping with contrasting yarn every 4 rows.
Row 20 (RS): K to 2 st from end, m1l, k2.
Row 21 (WS): P2, m1pl, p to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 more times
Row 28 (RS): K to end of row.
Row 29 (WS): CO 2 (2, 4, 4, 5, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9), p to
end of row.
You should have 52 (57, 62, 68, 73, 78, 83, 88,
93, 98) sts. Don't break yarn.

5
ff
ff
 Sleeves Neckband
With main yarn, US 4 [3.5 mm] needles and With main yarn, using US 2½ [3 mm] needles
starting at the bottom of the armhole, pick up and starting at the right shoulder seam, pick up
and knit 60 (66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 100, 108, 116, and knit 34 (34, 36, 36, 38, 40, 40, 42, 42, 44)
126) sts around it and place a marker to indicate sts from the back neck, then pick up and knit 60
the beginning of the round. The approximate (60, 62, 62, 64, 66, 66, 68, 68, 70) sts along the
pick-up ratio is 2 sts for every 3 rows. front neck. You should have 94 (94, 98, 98, 102,
Knit 30 (14, 12, 10, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6) rounds in 106, 106, 110, 110, 114) sts. Place marker and join
stockinette st, striping yarns every 4 rounds. for working in the round.

Next round - Decrease round: K1, ssk, k to 3 st Next round: (K1, p1) to end of round.
from end, k2tog, k1. Work 7 more rows in the established ribbing.
Continue working in pattern repeating a Work tubular bind o following the instructions
decrease round every 20th (20th, 16th, 14th, in the Glossary, or work one more row and then
11th, 10th, 7th, 5th, 5th, 4th) following round bind o in pattern.
until you have worked a total of 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7,
10, 12, 14, 17) decrease rounds. You should now
FINISHING
have 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92) sts.
Weave in ends and block garment to nished
Continue working in pattern until sleeve
measurements.
measures 10" [25 cm] ending with 2 rows of
main yarn. Switch to US 2½ [3 mm] needles
and work the cu using the main yarn only.
Next round: (K1, p1) to end of round.
Work in the established ribbing 14 more rounds.
Work tubular bind o following the instructions
in the Glossary or work one more round and
then bind o in pattern.

6
ff
ff
ff
ff
ff
fi
 GLOSSARY Tubular Bind-o (worked in the round)
Short Rows Round 1: (K1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front) to
end of round.
Short rows are a technique used to add extra
rows invisibly in the middle of the knitting. You Round 2: (Sl1 purlwise with yarn in back, p1) to
can nd several tutorials online. One that I found end of round.
particularly great is by The Purl Bee. Round 3: Using 2 circular needles, slip the knit
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/ sts to one needle and the purl stitches to the
short-rows/ other needle. Now you have half of the sts on a
'front' needle and half of the sts on a 'back'
needle.
Cable Cast-on
Cut your yarn leaving a tail that is approx. 3
Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
times longer than the circumference of your
Insert the right needle (RN) between the rst
stitches.
and second stitch of the LN. Knit one stitch, but
Graft the sts from the front needle together with
do not remove anything from the left needle.
the stitches from the back needle.
Now there’s a stitch on the right needle, place
that stitch onto the left needle. Repeat the steps
for however many stitches you’re casting on.
Insert the right needle between the rst and
second stitches of the left needle.

7
fi
ff
fi
fi
ABBREVIATIONS m1r Increase slanted to the right (pick up the
horizontal bar btw the sts from back to front, knit
BO bind o
through front leg)
CO cast on
p purl
foll(s) follows, following
patt pattern
k knit
RS right side
k2tog knit 2 together
Sl Slip
m1l Increase slanted to the left (pick up the
ssk slip, slip, knit the slipped sts together through
horizontal bar btw the sts from front to back, knit
the back loop (decrease)
through back leg)
st (sts) stitch (stitches)
m1pl Purled increase slanted to the left (insert
right needle from front to back below the bar in- tog together
between stitches and place it on the left needle. Purl WS wrong side
it through back loop).
w&t wrap and turn
m1pr Purled increase slanted to the right (insert
right needle from back to front below the bar in-
between stitches and place it on the left needle. Purl
it through front loop).

8
ff
 We'd love it if you share this project on instagram: #eltonpullover.
For pattern support, you can contact me at designsbyjoji@gmail.com
www.jojiknits.com