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Rooster Baby Kubrik Complete

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LittleOwlsHut

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Crochet
Pattern
By Svetlana Pertseva

Skill level: Intermediate


Baby Rooster Kubrik
About this pattern Materials and tools
The toy is crocheted in ✓ Yarn
continuous spirals without
Any yarn – I used 100% acrylic yarn that has 400m in a 50g skein.
joining the rounds. You will need
- light yellow color – I used approximately 20 g.
a stitch marker to keep track of
where the beginning of each - white, red, yellow, light green, dark green, pink colors – I used
round starts. Move the marker up approximately 10 g of each.
to the first stitch of the next Tip: You can use any yarn (wool, acrylic, etc). The thicker the yarn,
round after finishing the previous the bigger your toy will be. Make sure all yarns crochet to the same
one. gauge.
If you don't have a stitch marker
you can always use a scrap of
contrasting yarn instead. You can ✓ Matching crochet hook. I used 1.5 mm steel crochet hook
see it in my photos. ✓ A pair of ready-made eyes – you can use 10-14 mm in diameter.
✓ Single core copper PVC electrical wire – I used wire approximately
I use USA terminology for my 210 cm/82.7 inches long 1.0 mm in diameter (I did not make wire
pattern (don’t worry if you use frame for the tail and the wings).
UK terms, all the differences are
explained in the pattern). ✓ Tapestry needle
✓ Transparent glue
Finished size ✓ Stuffing
Approx. 25 cm (9.8 inches) when
✓ Adhesive fabric tape approximately 1 cm wide to work up the wire
seated using the materials stated ends
in the pattern.

Happy
crocheting!

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Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right)


Abbreviations
If there are no special notes, the toy When making toys the right side ch(s) = chain(s)
is crocheted under both parts of the looks like this:
st(s) = stitch(es)
loop. In some rows, there are sl st = slip stitch
special notes: ‘into the front loop sc(s) = single crochet(s)
only’ or ‘into the back loop only’. In inc(s) = increasing(s) (2 sc in 1 st)
that case, you need to follow these dec(s) = decreasing(s) (sc2tog)
instructions. Rnd = round

And the backside looks like this: If there is a record in the brackets
in the pattern, multiplied by some
number, for example (3 sc, 1 inc) x
3, it means you need to repeat this
action 3 times, that is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3
sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.

TIP (yarn)

If you use different yarn, the toy will be bigger or smaller and you will need
more or less yarn and wire than stated in the pattern (i.e. thicker yarn will
produce a larger toy and you may require more yarn).

Tip (gauge)

When making toys, you should use a much smaller hook than
recommended for the yarn you choose.
Make sure you crochet tight enough; otherwise, the stuffing will show
through the holes.

USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels


Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK
Projects for first-time crocheters using
ch - chain ch - chain basic stitches. Minimal shaping.
sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet htr - half treble Projects using yarn with basic stitches,
dc - double crochet tr - treble repetitive stitch patterns,
tr - treble (triple crochet) dtr - double treble simple color changes, and simple
dtr - double treble tr tr - triple treble shaping and finishing.
sl st - slip stitch sl - slip stitch
Projects using a variety of techniques,
such as basic lace patterns or color
Other differences in crochet terminology used: patterns, mid-level shaping and
finishing.
Terminology USA Terminology UK
Projects with intricate stitch patterns,
fasten off cast off techniques and dimension,
skip miss such as non-repeating patterns, multi-
gauge tension color techniques, fine threads, small
yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh) hooks, detailed shaping and refined
finishing.
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Tip (shift stitch) right yarn and hook for the toy 25 cm (9.8 inches)

While working, you will need to keep the work tall.

symmetrical. As work tends to twist to the right Instruction for the swatch:

you need to adjust position of the marker periodically Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

(beginning of round). If you notice that marker Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts

moves right, you need to work one extra stitch in the Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts

end of round and move marker for one stitch (now Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts

2nd st of the round becomes 1st). If you notice that Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts

the marker moves left, you need to unravel one stitch Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 36 sts

(or more if needed). This is shift stitch – it is not Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 42 sts

included in description of rounds. Compare your swatch with the one in the next

Usually you have to do shift stitches every 3-5 rounds picture. They should be the same size (the diameter

(depending on the yarn, hook and your gauge). To of my swatch is approximately 3.5 cm/1.4 inches). If

check if it is time to work shift stitch fold your work not, take bigger or smaller hook than you used before

in half and check if marker still goes straight. (depending on the result) and work another swatch.

You should keep the marker in a straight line on If it does not help – choose different yarn and make

some parts of the toy. Instructions for the marker are another swatch.

given in the description of each part of the toy if


needed.

Need Help?
If you may need help with this pattern please visit
Baby Rooster thread on Ravelry where many crafters
already made this toy. Here is the link to the group:
https://goo.gl/5ala3D

Toe (make 8 – 4 for each foot)


It is not necessary to keep the marker straight.
with yellow color yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Add some stuffing.
Rnd 6: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 9 sts
Rnd 7: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 6 sts
Gauge Rnds 8-9: 1 sc in each st around = 6 sts
Crochet a swatch using your yarn and matching Fasten off.
crochet hook to make sure that you have chosen the
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Foot and leg (make 2)


It is not necessary to keep the marker straight.
with yellow color yarn
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 sts

Assembling
Rnd 4: 3 sc hooking through both the sts of the first
toe and the sts of the heel to join, 3 sc along the heel,
3 sc hooking through both the sts of the second toe
and the sts of the heel to join, 3 sc hooking through
both the sts of the third toe and the sts of the heel to
join, 3 sc hooking through both the sts of the fourth
toe and the sts of the heel to join, 3 sc along the heel
= 18 sts

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Insert the wire frame inside the piece. Stuff the foot.

Rnd 5: 3 sc along the unworked sts of the first toe, 3


sc along the heel, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the
second toe, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the third
toe, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the fourth toe, 3 sc
along the heel = 18 sts
Make the wire frame using the measurements of the
crocheted piece. I used 52 cm/20.5 inches of wire for
one leg. The length of the finished leg is 11 cm/4.3 Rnd 6: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts
inches. Rnd 7: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 15 sts
Rnd 8: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 12 sts
Add some stuffing. Do not stuff further.
Rnd 9: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 9 sts
Rnd 10: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 6 sts
Rnds 11-44: 1 sc in each st around = 6 sts

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Rnds 7-12: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts


Rnd 13: (10 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 33 sts
Rnd 14: 1 sc in each st around = 33 sts
Rnd 15: (9 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 30 sts
Rnd 16: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Rnd 17: (8 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 27 sts
Rnd 18: 1 sc in each st around = 27 sts
Rnd 19: (7 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 24 sts
Rnd 20: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts

Change to light yellow color yarn. Rnd 21: (6 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 21 sts

Rnd 45: 1 sc in each st around = 6 sts Rnd 22: 1 sc in each st around = 21 sts

Rnd 46: 6 inc = 12 sts Rnd 23: (5 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 18 sts

Rnd 47: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 15 sts Rnd 24: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts

Rnd 48: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 18 sts Rnd 25: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 15 sts

Rnd 49: (5 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 21 sts Rnd 26: 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts

Rnds 50-52: 1 sc in each st around = 21 sts Rnd 27: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 12 sts

Fasten off. Rnds 28-30: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts


Rnd 31: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 9 sts
Rnds 32-36: 1 sc in each st around = 9 sts
Rnd 37: 7 sc, 1 dec = 8 sts
Rnds 38-40: 1 sc in each st around = 8 sts
Fasten off.
Middle part
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 30 sts
Comb
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 36 sts
Do not stuff. It is not necessary to keep the marker
Rnds 7-12: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts
straight.
Rnd 13: (10 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 33 sts
Small part
Rnd 14: 1 sc in each st around = 33 sts
with red color yarn
Rnd 15: (9 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 30 sts
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Rnd 16: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 17: (8 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 27 sts
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 18: 1 sc in each st around = 27 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 19: (7 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 20: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 36 sts
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Rnd 21: (6 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 21 sts Rnd 13: (10 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 33 sts
Rnd 22: 1 sc in each st around = 21 sts Rnd 14: 1 sc in each st around = 33 sts
Rnd 23: (5 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 18 sts Rnd 15: (9 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 30 sts
Rnd 24: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts Rnd 16: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Rnd 25: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 15 sts Rnd 17: (8 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 27 sts
Rnd 26: 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts Rnd 18: 1 sc in each st around = 27 sts
Rnd 27: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 12 sts Rnd 19: (7 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 24 sts
Rnds 28-31: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts Rnd 20: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
Rnd 32: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 9 sts Rnd 21: (6 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 21 sts
Rnds 33-38: 1 sc in each st around = 9 sts Rnd 22: 1 sc in each st around = 21 sts
Rnd 39: 7 sc, 1 dec = 8 sts Rnd 23: (5 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 18 sts
Rnds 40-44: 1 sc in each st around = 8 sts Rnd 24: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts
Work two sc hooking through both sts of the small Rnd 25: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 15 sts
and the middle part to join. Fasten off. Rnd 26: 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts
Rnd 27: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 12 sts
Rnds 28-32: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Rnd 33: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 9 sts
Rnds 34-40: 1 sc in each st around = 9 sts
Rnd 41: 7 sc, 1 dec = 8 sts
Rnds 42-48: 1 sc in each st around = 8 sts
Work two sc hooking through the next two sts of the
big part and two sts of the middle part that are two
sts away from the previous seam (see picture).

B stands for the big part


M stands for the middle part M stands for the middle part
S stands for the small part S stands for the small part
Big part Continue working around the big circle:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts 3 sc, place an additional marker, 13 sc = 16 sts
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts Fasten off.
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts

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Work two sc hooking through both pieces to join.

Wattle
Do not stuff. It is not necessary to keep the marker
straight.
with red color yarn
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
First part
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Tail feather (make 5)
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts Do not stuff. It is not necessary to keep the marker

Rnd 5: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 9 sts straight.

Rnd 6: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 6 sts I made two feathers in light green, two feathers in

Rnd 7: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 2 = 4 sts dark green and one feather in yellow colors.

Rnd 8: 1 sc in each st around = 4 sts First feather

Fasten off. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Second part Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts

Work the same way but do not fasten off at the end. Rnds 3-12: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Rnd 13: 10 sc, 1 dec = 11 sts
Rnds 14-16: 1 sc in each st around = 11 sts
Rnd 17: 9 sc, 1 dec = 10 sts
Rnds 18-20: 1 sc in each st around = 10 sts
Rnd 21: 8 sc, 1 dec = 9 sts
Rnds 22-24: 1 sc in each st around = 9 sts

8
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Rnd 25: 7 sc, 1 dec = 8 sts


Rnds 26-28: 1 sc in each st around = 8 sts
Rnd 29: 6 sc, 1 dec = 7 sts
Rnds 30-32: 1 sc in each st around = 7 sts
Rnd 33: 5 sc, 1 dec = 6 sts
Rnds 34-38: 1 sc in each st around = 6 sts
Fasten off.
Second feather
Work the same way you did for the first feather but
do not fasten off. Join the first feather and work 3 sc
hooking through the sts of both feathers to join.
Fasten off.

Fourth feather
Work the same way you did for the first feather but
do not fasten off. Join to the main piece and work 3
sc hooking through the sts of the fourth feather and
the third feather to join. Fasten off.

Fifth feather
Work the same way you did for the first feather but
do not fasten off. Join to the main piece and work 3
sc hooking through the sts of the fifth feather and the
fourth feather to join. Fasten off.

Third feather
Work the same way you did for the first feather but
do not fasten off. Join to the main piece and work 3
sc hooking through the sts of the third feather and
the second feather to join. Fasten off.

9
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Rnd 1: 3 sc along feather #1, 3 sc along feather #2, 6


sc along feather #3, 3 sc along feather #2, 3 sc along
feather #1 = 18 sts

Wing (make 2)
Do not stuff. It is not necessary to keep the marker
straight.
with light yellow color yarn
Wing feather (make 6 – 3 for each wing)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Change to white color yarn.
Rnd 5: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Change to light yellow color yarn.
Rnd 6: 10 sc, 1 dec = 11 sts
Rnd 7: 9 sc, 1 dec = 10 sts
Rnd 8: 8 sc, 1 dec = 9 sts
Rnd 9: 7 sc, 1 dec = 8 sts
Rnd 10: 6 sc, 1 dec = 7 sts
Rnd 11: 5 sc, 1 dec = 6 sts
Fasten off for two feathers (referred to as feather #2
and feather #3). Do not fasten off for the third
feather (referred to as feather #1).
Rnd 2: 7 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc = 16 sts
Rnd 3: 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc = 14 sts
Rnd 4: 5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc = 12 sts

Tip: You can make wire frame for the wings,


repeating the shape of the wing. Make sure you have
5-6 cm/2-2.4 inches of extra wire to twist the wire
frame for the wing to the main wire frame later (the
instructions are not given). Insert it inside the piece

Assembling and continue working around the piece.

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Rnd 5: 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc = 10 sts


Rnd 6: 3 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc = 8 sts
Rnd 7: 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc = 6 sts
Fasten off. Do not remove the round marker.

The inner part of the beak


Rnd 10: Work 15 sc along the first part starting from
the additional marker, then work 15 sc along the
second part starting from the additional marker = 30
sts

Beak
Do not stuff. It is not necessary to keep the marker
straight.
with yellow color yarn
First part
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Rnd 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 9 sts
Rnd 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 12 sts
Rnd 4: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 15 sts
Rnd 5: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 18 sts
Rnd 6: (5 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 21 sts
Rnd 7: (6 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 24 sts
Rnd 8: (7 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 27 sts
Rnd 9: 8 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, place an additional marker, 3
sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc = 30 sts
Fasten off.
Second part
Work the same way. Do not fasten off. Instead
continue working along the first part.

Rnd 11: (1 dec, 3 sc) х 6 = 24 sts


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Rnd 12: (1 dec, 2 sc) х 6 = 18 sts (7 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc) along one part, (7 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc)
Rnd 13: (1 dec, 1 sc) х 6 = 12 sts along the other part = 32 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dec = 6 sts Work 8 more sc and place a new round marker.
Fasten off and close up the opening.

Head-neck-body
Change to light yellow color yarn. Round marker
goes from the chin along the front of the neck down
the belly.
Rnd 1: 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 4
sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc = 42 sts
Do not chain too tightly in the next round. You can
even use a bigger hook to make the chain. You will
crochet the eye sockets around with 2 rounds of sc
later. It will make the eye sockets look neat.
Rnd 2: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 2, ch 26, skip 7, 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc,
ch 26, skip 7, (1 inc, 3 sc) х 2 = 86 sts

Rnd 3: 10 sc, 26 sc along the chain, 5 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1


inc, 5 sc, 26 sc along the chain, 10 sc = 88 sts

With right side of work facing, rejoin Yellow yarn at


either of the 2 markers from Rnd 10. Work around
the outside.
Rnd 4: 1 sc in each st around = 88 sts
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Rnd 5: 15 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc, 2 inc, Rnd 19: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 24 sts
14 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 15 sc = 96 sts Rnd 20: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 6: 8 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 If safety eyes are used, do not tighten the magic ring,
dec, 10 sc, 1 inc, 17 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 94 sts and insert them.
Rnd 7: 7 sc, 1 dec, 28 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, 28 sc, 1 Stuff firmly.
dec, 7 sc = 90 sts Rnd 21: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 12 sts
Rnds 8-9: 1 sc in each st around = 90 sts Rnd 22: 6 dec = 6 sts
Rnd 10: 7 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc, 1 Fasten off and weave in loose ends.
dec, 7 sc = 86 sts
Rnd 11: (7 sc, 1 dec) х 3, 6 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc,
(1 dec, 7 sc) х 3 = 78 sts

Insert the whites of the eyes into the eye sockets from
the back of the head. The whites of the eyes should
firmly sit into the eye sockets without distortion of
their shapes.
Make them smaller or bigger if you think it is needed.

Leave this part of your work aside to crochet the


whites of the eyes.

The white of the eye (make 2)


with white color yarn
It is not necessary to keep the marker straight.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 36 sts
Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 42 sts
Rnd 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 48 sts
Rnds 9-15: 1 sc in each st around = 48 sts
Rnd 16: (6 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 42 sts Note: You may want to crochet the eyelids now. Go
Rnd 17: (5 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 36 sts to Eyelids section to decide.
Rnd 18: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 30 sts

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Return to where you left off on the head. Rnd 15: 4 sc, 1 dec, (3 sc, 1 dec) х 3, 12 sc, (1 dec, 3
Rnd 12: (6 sc, 1 dec) х 3, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, join the sc) х 3, 1 dec, 4 sc = 46 sts
comb with its additional marker being at the working Make the wire frame repeating the shape of the
loop and work 8 sc hooking through the sts of the comb. Make three loops at the middle of the wire
comb and the sts of the head to join, 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, piece. You don’t have to make loops for the full
(1 dec, 6 sc) х 3 = 70 sts length of the comb.
My measurements:
The length of the biggest part of the comb is 10
cm/3.9 inches.
25 cm/9.8 inches (for the body) + 54 cm/21.3 inches
(for the comb) + 25 cm/9.8 inches (for the body) =
104 cm/41 inches
If you plan to make the wire frame for the tail, add
wire for that too.

Rnd 13: 6 sc, 1 dec, (5 sc, 1 dec) х 3, 2 sc, 8 sc along


the unworked sts of the comb, 2 sc, (1 dec, 5 sc) х 3, 1 Rnd 16: 8 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 44 sts
dec, 6 sc = 62 sts Rnd 17: 9 sc, 1 dec, 22 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc = 42 sts
Rnd 14: 5 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3, 12 sc, (1 dec, 4 Rnd 18: 9 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc = 40 sts
sc) х 3, 1 dec, 5 sc = 54 sts Rnd 19: 14 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 38 sts
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Rnd 20: 15 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 36 sts Rnds 42-48: 1 sc in each st around = 10 sts
Rnd 21: 14 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 34 sts Rnd 49: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 2 = 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, Rnd 50: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
6 sc = 30 sts Rnd 51: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 15 sts
Add stuffing to the head. It should be stuffed slightly. Rnd 52: 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts
Do not stuff until Rnd 53. Rnd 53: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 18 sts
Rnd 23: 5 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3, 5 sc = 26 sts Start stuffing as you go but do not overstuff.
Rnd 24: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 2 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) х 2 = 22 Rnd 54: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts
sts Rnd 55: (5 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 21 sts
Rnd 25: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 2 sc, (1 dec, 3 sc) х 2 = 18 Rnd 56: 1 sc in each st around = 21 sts
sts Rnd 57: (6 sc, 1 inc) х 3 = 24 sts
Rnd 26: 8 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 17 sts Rnd 58: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
Rnd 27: 8 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 16 sts Rnd 59: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 28: 7 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 15 sts Rnd 60: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Rnd 29: 6 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 14 sts Rnd 61: 9 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 9
Rnd 30: 6 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 13 sts sc = 34 sts
Rnd 62: into the back loops only: 1 sc in each st
around = 34 sts
Rnd 63: 11 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc,
11 sc = 38 sts
Rnd 64: into the back loops only: 1 sc in each st
around = 38 sts
Rnd 65: 12 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc,
12 sc = 42 sts
Rnd 66: 1 sc in each st around = 42 sts
Rnds 31-32: 1 sc in each st around = 13 sts Rnd 67: 13 sc, (1 inc, 4 sc) х 3, 1 inc, 13 sc = 46 sts
Rnd 33: 5 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 12 sts
Rnds 34-36: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Rnd 37: 5 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 11 sts

Rnds 38-40: 1 sc in each st around = 11 sts


Rnd 41: 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 10 sts

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Put the wings with the markers facing the back (in
the opposite direction of the round marker).
Rnd 68: 10 sc, 3 sc hooking through the sts of the Rnd 69: 10 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the
body and the sts of the wing, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 wing, 2 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc,
inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc hooking through the sts of the 3 sc along the unworked sts of the wing, 10 sc = 54
wing and the sts of the body, 10 sc = 50 sts sts
Rnd 70: 16 sc, (1 inc, 6 sc) х 3, 1 inc, 16 sc = 58 sts
Rnd 71: 17 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc,
17 sc = 62 sts
Rnd 72: 18 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc,
18 sc = 66 sts
Rnd 73: 19 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc,
19 sc = 70 sts
Rnd 74: 31 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 31 sc = 72 sts
Rnd 75: 1 sc in each st around = 72 sts
Join the tail. Crochet very tightly when you join the
tail.
Rnd 76: 33 sc, work 2 sc hooking through the sts of
the first tail feather and the sts of the body, work 1 sc
hooking through the st that joins the 1st and 2nd tail
feathers and the st of the body, work 1 sc hooking
through the st that joins the 2nd and 3rd tail feathers
and the st of the body, work 1 sc hooking through the
st that joins the 3rd and 4th tail feathers and the st of
the body, work 2 sc hooking through the sts of the
fifth tail feather and the sts of the body, 32 sc = 72 sts

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Rnd 77: 33 sc, 1 sc into the 1st st that you started to


join the tail to the body, 1 sc into the unworked st of
the 1st feather, 1 sc into the st that joins the 1st and 2nd
tail feathers, 1 sc into the st that joins the 2nd and 3rd
tail feathers, 1 sc into the st that joins the 3rd and 4th
tail feathers, 1 sc into the unworked st of the last
feather, 1 sc into the last st that you ended to join the
tail to the body, 32 sc = 72 sts

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Rnd 78: 1 sc in each st around = 72 sts


Join the legs with the back toes face to the side
opposite to the round marker (towards the tail).
Rnd 79: 12 sc, work 13 sc hooking through the sts of
the of the first leg and the sts of the body, 22 sc, work
13 sc hooking through the sts of the second leg and
the sts of the body, 12 sc = 72 sts

Rnd 80: 12 sc, 8 sc along the unworked sts of the


first leg, 22 sc, 8 sc along the unworked sts of the
second leg, 12 sc = 62 sts

Twist the wire frames together (main wire frame,


wire frames of the legs, wings and tails (if there are
any)). Secure with fabric tape. Do not distort the
pieces.

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Rnd 90: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 6 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc,


(1 dec, 2 sc) х 2 = 30 sts
Rnd 91: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc,
(1 dec, 2 sc) х 2 = 24 sts
Rnd 92: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc,
(1 dec, 1 sc) х 2 = 18 sts
Stuff firmly.
Rnd 93: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 6 = 12 sts
Rnd 94: 6 dec = 6 sts
Fasten off, close up the opening and weave in loose
ends.

Rnds 81-84: 1 sc in each st around = 62 sts


Finishing
Rnd 85: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 38 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) х 2 = 58
Collar
sts
You can use any color you like. I use dark green, light
Rnd 86: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 34 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) х 2 = 54
green and white color yarns.
sts
Take the toy with the head facing you and the legs
Stuff the thighs.
facing away from you.
Rnd 87: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 11 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 11
Bottom ruffle
sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) х 2 = 48 sts
with dark green color yarn
Rnd 88: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 10 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 10
Work using the bottom set of unworked loops:
sc, (1 dec, 3 sc) х 2 = 42 sts
Rnd 1: 1 sc into each unworked loop around = 38 sts
Rnd 89: 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1
Join with a sl st to first sc.
dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 36 sts

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Now work into the unworked front loops of Rnd 1


with white color yarn:
Rnd 3: (ch 4, 1 sl st) х 38
Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Work into the back loop only:


Rnd 2: 1 sc, (ch 5, skip 1, 1 sc) x 18, ch 5, join with sl
st in first sc
Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Top ruffle
with light green color yarn
Work using the top set of unworked loops:
Rnd 1: 1 sc into each unworked loop around = 34 sts
Join with a sl st to first sc.
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crocheted the eyelids, do not remove the eyes and


crochet the eyelids with the eyes sitting inside the
eye sockets.

I used yellow and pink to crochet the eyelids. You can


use any color you like.
with yellow color yarn
Rnd 1: 33 sc around the eye socket

Change to pink color yarn.


Rnd 2: (9 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 30 sts

Rnd 2: 1 sc, (ch 5, skip 1, 1 sc) x 16, ch 5, join with sl


st in first sc
Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Attach pupils to the whites of the eyes. Insert the eyes


into the eye sockets.
Eyelids
Note: If you think you will not be able to insert the
whites of the eyes into the eye sockets after you have
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Sew the wattle under the beak.

Your baby chicken is ready!

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Contacts: I’d love to see the results of your hard work! Please share photos of your finished
creation directly on our Facebook page, add project to the pattern on Ravelry and Craftsy, email me,
and/or find me on other sites. Just search “Little Owl’s Hut”.

Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.

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Copyright notes: ©2016 LittleOwlsHut. Finished products created with this pattern
may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:

• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line
allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy
of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’
pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website
(www.LittleOwlsHut.com)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item
you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your
work.

Text and images Copyright ©2016 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.


No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means,
including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these
patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!

Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if
you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include
warning for people purchasing it.

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