Bunny Klepa

LittleOwlsHut
www.LittleOwlsHut.com
Crochet
Pattern
By Svetlana Pertseva
Skill level: Experienced

Sweet Bunny Klepa
About this pattern Materials and tools
The toy is crocheted in ✓ Main yarn "Andre Classic" Alpina (60% acrylic, 35% viscose, 5%
continuous spirals without
spandex, 530 m / 100 g) pink color (30 g).
joining the rounds. You will need
a stitch marker to keep track of
where the beginning of each ✓ Yarn for the stripes and the eyes “Andre Classic” Alpina yarn
round starts. Move the marker up (60% acrylic, 35% viscose, 5% spandex, 530 m / 100 g) white
to the first stitch of the next
round after finishing the previous color (10 g).
one.
If you don't have a stitch marker ✓ Yarn for the teeth “Areola” yarn of Areola 10 (100% polyacryl,
you can always use a scrap of
contrasting yarn instead. You can
400 m / 50 g) of white color (1.5 m)
see it in my photos.
✓ Tip: If you need exactly the same yarn visit this shop
I use USA terminology for my https://www.etsy.com/shop/LittleOwlsHutRUSSIAN
pattern (don’t worry if you use
UK terms, all the differences are ✓ A pair of ready-made eyes – I used 15 mm in diameter. You can
explained in the pattern). use black half beads, beads or buttons instead.
✓ Single core copper PVC electrical wire – I used wire
approximately 190 cm / 74.80 inches long 1 mm in diameter.
Finished size
Approx. 18 cm/7.04 inches tall ✓ Stuffing - Fiberfill
without ears using the materials ✓ Adhesive fabric tape approximately 1 cm wide to work up the
stated in the pattern. wire ends (optional)
✓ Crochet hook – I used 1.5 mm for the body
✓ Crochet hook – I used 1 mm for the teeth (or suitable for the
Happy
thickness of yarn selected)
crocheting!
www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet pattern 2018
Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right)

When making toys the right side
Abbreviations
If there are no special notes, the toy
is crocheted under both parts of the looks like this:
ch(s) = chain(s)
loop. In some rows, there are st(s) = stitch(es)
special notes: ‘into the front loop sl st = slip stitch
only’ or ‘into the back loop only’. In sc(s) = single crochet(s)
that case, you need to follow these inc(s) = increasing(s) (2 sc in 1 st)
instructions. dec(s) = decreasing(s) (sc2tog)
Rnd = round
dc = double crochet
And the backside looks like this:
cl = cluster stitch
lps = loops
yo = yarn over
If there is a record in the brackets

in the pattern, multiplied by some
number, for example (3 sc, 1 inc) x
3, it means you need to repeat this
TIP (yarn) action 3 times, that is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3
sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.
If you use different yarn, the toy will be bigger or smaller and you will need
more or less yarn and wire than stated in the pattern (i.e. thicker yarn will
produce a larger toy and you may require more yarn).
Tip (gauge)
When making toys, you should use a much smaller hook than
recommended for the yarn you choose.
Make sure you crochet tight enough; otherwise, the stuffing will show
through the holes.
USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK
Projects for first-time crocheters using
ch - chain ch - chain basic stitches. Minimal shaping.
sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet htr - half treble Projects using yarn with basic stitches,
dc - double crochet tr - treble repetitive stitch patterns,
tr - treble (triple crochet) dtr - double treble simple color changes, and simple
dtr - double treble tr tr - triple treble shaping and finishing.
sl st - slip stitch sl - slip stitch
Projects using a variety of techniques,
such as basic lace patterns or color
Other differences in crochet terminology used: patterns, mid-level shaping and
finishing.
Terminology USA Terminology UK
Projects with intricate stitch patterns,
fasten off cast off techniques and dimension,
skip miss such as non-repeating patterns, multi-
gauge tension color techniques, fine threads, small
yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh) hooks, detailed shaping and refined
finishing.
2
Tip (shift stitch) Compare your swatch with the one in the next
picture. They should be the same size (the diameter
While working, you will need to keep the work
of my swatch is approximately 3.5 cm/1.4 inches). If
symmetrical. As the work tends to twist to the right
not, take a bigger or smaller hook than you used
you need to adjust the position of the marker
before (depending on the result) and work another
periodically (beginning of round). If you notice that
swatch. If it does not help – choose different yarn
the marker moves right, you need to work one extra
and make another swatch.
stitch in the end of round and move the marker for
one stitch (now the 2nd st of the round becomes 1st).
If you notice that the marker moves left, you need to
unravel one stitch (or more if needed). This is shift
stitch – it is not included in the description of the
rounds.
Usually you have to do shift stitches every 3-5
rounds (depending on the yarn, hook and your
gauge). To check if it is time to work shift stitch(es)
fold your work in half and check if the marker still
goes straight.
You should keep the marker in a straight line on
some parts of the toy. Instructions for the marker
are given in the description of each part of the toy if
Need help?
needed.
If you need any help with this pattern you are
welcome to ask questions in our Ravelry group.
Gauge (if you want the toy to be the
https://goo.gl/3etv5n
size mentioned in the pattern)
Search for the thread about this pattern using
Crochet a swatch using your main yarn and
pattern name.
matching crochet hook to make sure that you have
Ladies who already made this toy would be able
chosen the right yarn and hook for the toy 18 cm/7
to help you with this project.
inches tall.
Instruction for the swatch:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 36 sts
Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 42 sts
3
Diagram explanations
- Chain (ch)
- Cluster stitch (cl)
- Single crochet (sc)
- Slip stitch (sl st)
- Double crochet (dc)
Cluster stitch (cl) for finger
More detailed explanation

Ch 2, 4 unfinished dc into front loop on last sc, Ch 2, yo, insert hook into front loop on last sc,
finish with yo pulled through 5 loops on the yo, pull through st, yo, pull through 2 lps on
hook to form a cluster stitch, ch 2, sl st into the hook, (yo, insert hook in same st, yo, pull
same loop you worked 4 dc from. through st, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 3
times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook, ch 2, sl
st into sc.
Note: When making the fingers, use the front

loop on last st made to make the cluster stitch
into.
4
Stripes
1
The stripes, like in the bunny shown, can be

added at random and to your taste and will not
be indicated in the pattern. If you choose to do
the stripes, do the color change at the back of
the bunny.
Arms (make 2)
While working stitches of the next round make
I crocheted the hand inside out sure the fingers stay outside.
(counterclockwise), you will start on the back
side of the hand.
TIP: Use different color thread markers for left

and right hands to easily identify them later.
Left Hand
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts
In the next round you should crochet into the

front loop of the last sc you made when forming
the cluster stitch / finger.
Rnd 5: 5 sc, (cl, sc) x 2, cl, 3 sc, cl, 4 sc, ch 4 =

18 sts
5
See “appendix” for better picture

Rnd 6: skip 4 sc, 4 sc, (sc into cl base) x 3, 2 sc
between fingers and thumb, sc into cl base, 4 sc Rnd 5: 5 sc, cl, 3 sc, (cl, sc) x 2, cl, 4 sc, ch 4 =
= 18 sts 18 sts
Your marker moved 4 sts to the right of your While working stitches of the next round make
previous rnd start. sure the fingers stay outside.
Rnd 7: 4 sc along chain, (1 sc, dec) x 4, dec = 13 Rnd 6: skip 4 sts, 4 sc, sc into cl base, 2 sc
sts between thumb and fingers, (sc into cl base) x
Rnd 8: 1 sc, 6 dec = 7 sts 3, 4 sc = 18 sts
Fasten off, leaving a thread to close the opening Your marker moved 4 sts to the right of your
inside the hand, weave in loose ends. previous rnd start.
Rnd 7: 4 sc along chain, dec, (dec, 1 sc) x 4, =
Right hand (use a different color 13 sts
marker) Rnd 8: 1 sc, 6 dec = 7 sts
Fasten off, leaving a thread to close the opening
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts inside the hand, weave in loose ends.
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 = 18 sts Continuation of arms (make 2)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts Keeping the marker straight is not necessary.
In the next round you should crochet into the

front loop of the last sc you made when forming
the cluster stitch / finger.
6
Rnd 5 – 8: sc around = 24 sts

Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) = 18 sts
Rnd 10: (1 sc, dec) = 12 sts
Stuff softly.
Rnd 11: 6 dec = 6 sts.
1 sl st, fasten off and weave in ends.
Start Rnd 1 by joining the yarn to the opening

created in Rnd 5 and 6 of the hand
Fill the palm of the hand with fiberfill.
Rnd 7: Dec, 6 sc = 7 sts
Rnd 13 – 21: sc around = 6 sts Ears (make 2)
1 sl st, fasten off. No need to leave tail. Keeping the marker straight is not necessary on
the ears.

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 9: (4 sc, dec) x 3 = 15 sts
Rnd 10: sc around = 15 sts
Tail Rnd 12: Dec, 12 sc = 13 sts
Keeping the marker straight is not necessary.
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 = 24 sts
7

1 sl st, fasten off and weave in ends.
Rnd 25: ch 4, skip 4 sc, 4 sc = 8 sts
Rnd 26: 4 sc along ch, 4 sc = 8 sts

Rnd 28: 4 dec = 4 sts
Fasten off and weave in ends
Back Legs (make 2) Main Leg

Foot The main part of the leg is not stuffed.
The marker should run on the top of the foot Start by joining the yarn to the opening created
until 25th round. in Rnd 25 and 26 of the foot and crochet 8 sc
around. This does not count as Rnd 1.
Stuff the foot lightly as you go, keeping in mind
that you will need to be able to insert the
wireframe into it later.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts Rnd 1: (2 sc, dec) x 2 = 6 sts

Rnd 16: sc around = 10 sts Rnd 2 – 7: sc around = 6 sts

Rnd 20- 24: sc around = 8 sts
8
1 sl st, fasten off and weave in ends. Rnd 8: 10 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc,
20 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 10 sc = 64
Body sts
When making the body ensure that the marker

stays straight, as it tends to move to the right.
If this occurs use a shift stitch to ensure it is
kept central.
The marker should travel up from the bottom

along the center front.
Do not remove the marker until after you have

joined the head.
Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring = 8 sts

Tip: Before joining the legs to the body ensure
the heels are turned in the opposite direction
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 8 = 24 sts
from the marker and the inner side of the legs
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 = 32 sts
are against the body. Look at the pictures
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 = 40 sts
closely before continuing.
Rnd 6: 6 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 12
sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 6 sc = 48 sts
Rnd 9: 12 sc, inc, 1 sc, with right sides of the
Rnd 7: 8 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 16
work facing each other 3 sc hooking through
sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 8 sc = 56 sts
the sts of the right leg and the sts of the body, 1
sc, inc, 25 sc, inc, 1 sc, 3 sc hooking through the
9
sts on the left leg and the sts of the body, 1 sc, Rnd 15: 33 sc, with right sides of the work
inc, 13 sc = 68 sts facing each other 3 sc hooking through the sts
of the tail and the sts of the body, 34 sc = 70 sts
Rnd 16: 33 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts of
the tail, 34 sc = 70 sts
Rnd 20: 13 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 8 sc,
dec, 9 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 13 sc = 64 sts
Rnd 10: 15 sc, 3 sc along unworked sts of the
dec, 14 sc = 60 sts
right leg, 31 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts of
Rnd 22: (8 sc, dec) x 2, 20 sc, (dec, 8 sc) x 2 =
the left leg, 16 sc = 68 sts
56 sts
Rnd 11: 16 sc, inc, 33 sc, inc, 17 sc = 70 sts
dec, 12 sc = 52 sts
dec, 5 sc = 48 sts
dec, 10 sc = 44 sts
dec, 4 sc = 40 sts
dec, 12 sc = 36 sts
Rnd 28: 8 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 8 sc = 34 sts
10
Pinch the loops with pliers so it is easier to

insert the wire frame into the legs.
Follow the picture to make the rest of the

frame.
Start stuffing the body, continue stuffing as you

go.
Rnd 32: 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc,
3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc = 26 sts
Make the wire frame (see picture).
Rnd 34: 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, dec,
Fold a 190 cm (depending on the size of your
3 sc = 24 sts
toy) piece of wire in half. Make two loops at the
ends (the length = foot + leg). Form a
horizontal wire line between the legs measuring
2 sc = 22 sts
the width of the body at the level at the bottom.
11
2 sc = 20 sts
Attach the arms in the next rnd. Make sure the

fingers are in the correct position with the
thumbs pointing forward towards the stomach
and the palms towards the body, check your
Bend the wire to the length of the arms.
marker color to make sure you place the arms
to the correct side of the body. If you lost track
Pinch the ends and insert fully into the arms.
of what arm is the left and the right you can
look at the hands, the palm side should be
Rnd 41: 4 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts of
flatter than the back of the hand, the finger
the right arm, 6 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts
opening should turn towards the palm side.
of the left arm, 4 sc = 20 sts
Rnd 40: 4 sc, 3 sc hooking through both sts of
the right arm and the body joining them both
together, 6 sc, 3 sc hooking through both sts of
the left arm and body, 4 sc = 20 sts
12
Rnd 46: 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc = 10 sts Rnd 7: 6 dec = 6 sts
Rnd 48: 1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc = 6 sts In the next rnd, work the first and last sts in the
Rnd 49 – 51: sc around = 6 sts front loops only, because the back loops will be
Rnd 52: (1 sc, inc) x 3 = 9 sts used in rnd 21.
Rnd 53: (2 sc, inc) x 3 = 12 sts Rnd 8: 3 sc in each sc = 18 sts
1 sl st, fasten off and weave in ends. Rnd 9: (2 sc, inc) x 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 10: (2 sc, inc) x 8 = 32 sts
Rnd 11: 5 sc, ch 24, skip 6 sc, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc,
2 sc, ch 24, skip 6 sc, 5 sc = 72 sts
Rnd 12: 5 sc, 24 sc across ch, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc,
inc, 4 sc, 24 sc across ch, 5 sc = 72 sts
Rnd 13: 9 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x 3, inc, 9 sc, inc, 2 sc,
inc, 9 sc (inc, 4 sc) x 3, inc, 9 sc = 82 sts
Rnd 14: 10 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x 4, dec, 3 sc, inc, 2
sc, inc, 3 sc, dec, (5 sc, inc) x 4, 10 sc = 90 sts
Head
The marker will pass through the lower part of
the head, from the nose to the chin and should
be kept as straight as possible.
Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x 3 = 15 sts
Rnd 6: (3 sc, dec) x 3 = 12 sts
Add stuffing into the nose before completing Rnd 15: 37 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 37 sc = 88 sts
the next rnd. Rnd 16: 36 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, 2 dec, 36 sc = 84 sts
13
Rnd 17: 35 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec, 35 sc = 80 sts

Rnd 20: 10 sc, 25 sc in front loops only, 8 sc,
25 sc in front loops only, 10 sc = 78 sts
14
Rnd 21: 2 sc, ch 2, 1 slst in the back loop of rnd

7, ch 2, 74 sc, ch 2, 1 slst in the back loop of rnd
7, ch 2, 2 sc = 78 sts
At this point you should move to forming the

eye balls and eye sockets. The head will be
completed once these have been made.
Eye Balls (make 2)

The yarn chosen for the eye should be white
and smooth. It is important to ensure that the
size fits within the head and the eye sockets.
Study the pictures to see the correct sizing.
15
Eye Sockets (make 2)

To create the eye sockets, begin by turning the
head inside out and work on the inside of the
head.

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 = 36 sts
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 = 42 sts
Rnd 15: (5 sc, dec) x 6 = 36 sts
Rnd 16: (4 sc, dec) x 6 =30 sts
Rnd 17: (3 sc, dec) x 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 19: (1 sc, dec) x 6 = 12 sts
If using safety eyes insert them now before

adding the filling.
Fasten off, leaving a thread to close the

opening, weave in ends.
16
Stuff the lip softly, see pictures. Insert the eye and crochet the rest of the eye
sockets around the eye.
Rnd 1: Attach yarn to the back loops of the sts

in rnd 20, 25 sc in back loops, ch 7, 6 sc along
the skipped sts of rnd 11, ch 7, slst to 1st sc to
close circle = 45 sts
17
Rnd 6: (13 sc, dec) x 3 = 42 sts Rnd 23: sc4tog, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec,
Rnd 7: (5 sc, dec) x 6 = 36 sts 30 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, sc4tog = 66
Rnd 8: (4 sc, dec) x 6 = 30 sts sts
Rnd 9: (3 sc, dec) x 6 = 24 sts Rnd 24: sc4tog, (4 sc, dec) x 2, 10 sc, 4 sc
Rnd 10: (2 sc, dec) x 6 = 18 sts hooking through both sts of the left ear and the
Rnd 11: (1 sc, dec) x 6 = 12 sts sts of the head, 6 sc, 4 sc hooking through both
Rnd 12: 6 dec = 6 sts sts of the right ear and the sts of the head, 10 sc,
Fasten off and weave in ends (see Tip). (dec, 4 sc) x 2, sc4tog = 56 sts
Repeat for 2nd eye socket. Rnd 25: 9 sc, (dec, 4 sc) x 2, 4 sc along the
unworked sts of the left ear, 6 sc, 4 sc along the
unworked sts of the right ear, (4 sc, dec) x 2, 9
sc = 52 sts
dec, 8 sc = 48 sts
Rnd 27: 9 sc, dec, (3 sc, dec) x 2, 6 sc, (dec, 3
sc) x 2, dec, 9 sc = 42 sts
Tip: You can make a stitch to secure the eye in
Rnd 28: 6 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec,
the eye socket – using the thread from the eye
3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 6 sc = 36 sts
socket make a small stitch into the back of the
Rnd 29: (3 sc, dec) x 3, 6 sc, (dec, 3 sc) x 3 =
eye then come out behind the eye socket again,
30 sts
draw up the thread to sit the eye in the socket,
Rnd 30: 3 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, dec, 4 sc, (dec, 2
then secure it, fasten off and hide the ends.
sc) x 2, dec, 3 sc hooking through both sts of the
head and neck (line up the markers on the head
and neck) = 24 sts
Continuation of head
Turn the head back to the correct side and
begin working from where the head was left.
Continue, keeping the marker as straight as
possible.
18
On the next rnd use the remaining sts of the

neck along with the rest of the head.
Rnd 31: 3 sc hooking through both sts of the
head and neck, (dec, 1 sc) x 2, dec, 2 sc, (dec, 1
Rnd 32: (1 sc, dec) x 6 = 12 sts
sc) x 2, dec, 3 sc (neck) = 18 sts
Fasten off, close hole and weave in the ends.
Teeth (make 2)
The teeth are made from a thinner yarn than
the body.
To ensure the correct size piece is made, select a
yarn where 3 rounds of main yarn = 6 rounds of
yarn for the teeth.
A smaller hook size should be used (1 mm).
Form two loops with the wire for the ears.

Pinch the ends with pliers to help to fully insert
into the ears. Twist together the remaining wire
and trim. Cover the ends with fabric tape.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring = 6 sts
Filling should now be added to the head Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 = 9 sts
ensuring it is pushed to the front of head, nose Rnd 3 – 7: sc around = 9 sts
and around the eyes, which should be placed in
the sockets. Sew or crochet teeth together at the top, fasten
After filling the head the eyes should not bulge off and weave in ends.
from the head.
19
Attach yarn (strong thread that matches the Your bunny is now complete!
head color) under the nose (point 1).
Insert the needle into point 1 and bring it out at
point 2 (the indent made in rnd 21).
Return the needle to point 1. Repeat several
times, pulling the thread tight. This will create
extra definition. Secure the thread, but do not
cut off. Use the remaining thread to attach the
teeth into the indent.
20
21
Appendix (better pictures)
Left hand
22
Head
Eye Sockets
23
Collect All Pertseva’s patterns
007 Dragon 010 Cat Siam 013 Frog 020 Kittens

Draco Kvolya
022 Puppy 027 Moose 028 Cat Heart 032 Lady

Figurine
040 Horse 041 Doll 043 Horse 064 Doll Marie

Glasha Princess White Dream
084 Baby 086 Monkey 089 Funny Cat 090 Funny Rat
Monkey Orang-utan Serafima
Gunya
24
091 Funny 092 Funny 093 Cat 094 Orange Cat

Raccoon Meerkat Mystery Arestarh
095 Cat Sphynx 097 Mouse 098 Hedgehog 099 Puppy

Findus Sofia Kuka Boka
109 Slow Loris 111 White 119 Panda 120 Brown Cat
Rabbit Ostap
121 Rabbit Dude 122 Huggable 129 Dobby the 132 Baby
Bear Shunya sad cat Rooster Kubrik
139 Cute Bear 140 Hats for 147 Angel Zu 148 Angel Shu
Cookie bears Doll Doll
25
155 Lucy the Frog 156 Mulya the 157 Sweet Bear 164 Jiggers the
Sheep Mimishoon dog
178 Ludwig the 184 Hans-Fritz 192 Arnold the 193 Fima the
Dog von Rosenblatt Wolf Pig
the Fox
195 Proshka the 198 Jeremy the

Bear Cat
26
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27
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Copyright notes: ©2018 LittleOwlsHut. Finished products created with this pattern
may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:
• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line
allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy
of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’
pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website
(www.LittleOwlsHut.com)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item
you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your
work.
Text and images Copyright ©2018 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.

No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means,
including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these
patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!
Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if
you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include
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28

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Skill level: Experienced

www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right)

If there is a record in the brackets

USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

- Cluster stitch (cl)

- Single crochet (sc)

- Slip stitch (sl st)

- Double crochet (dc)

Cluster stitch (cl) for finger

More detailed explanation

Note: When making the fingers, use the front

The stripes, like in the bunny shown, can be

TIP: Use different color thread markers for left

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

In the next round you should crochet into the

Rnd 5: 5 sc, (cl, sc) x 2, cl, 3 sc, cl, 4 sc, ch 4 =

See “appendix” for better picture

In the next round you should crochet into the

Rnd 5 – 8: sc around = 24 sts

Start Rnd 1 by joining the yarn to the opening

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Rnd 18 – 19: sc around = 9 sts

Rnd 26: 4 sc along ch, 4 sc = 8 sts

Back Legs (make 2) Main Leg

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts Rnd 1: (2 sc, dec) x 2 = 6 sts

Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts

Rnd 17: Dec, 8 sc = 9 sts

When making the body ensure that the marker

The marker should travel up from the bottom

Do not remove the marker until after you have

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring = 8 sts

Pinch the loops with pliers so it is easier to

Follow the picture to make the rest of the

Start stuffing the body, continue stuffing as you

Attach the arms in the next rnd. Make sure the

Rnd 17: 35 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec, 35 sc = 80 sts

See “appendix” for better picture

Rnd 21: 2 sc, ch 2, 1 slst in the back loop of rnd

At this point you should move to forming the

Eye Balls (make 2)

See “appendix” for better picture

Eye Sockets (make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

If using safety eyes insert them now before

Rnd 20: 6 dec = 6 sts

Fasten off, leaving a thread to close the

Rnd 2 – 5: sc around = 45 sts

See “appendix” for better picture

Rnd 1: Attach yarn to the back loops of the sts

On the next rnd use the remaining sts of the

Form two loops with the wire for the ears.

Appendix (better pictures)

Collect All Pertseva’s patterns

007 Dragon 010 Cat Siam 013 Frog 020 Kittens

022 Puppy 027 Moose 028 Cat Heart 032 Lady

040 Horse 041 Doll 043 Horse 064 Doll Marie

091 Funny 092 Funny 093 Cat 094 Orange Cat

095 Cat Sphynx 097 Mouse 098 Hedgehog 099 Puppy