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them well between cloths; and make a pickle of the following
ingredients:
Six eschalots, minced
White peppercorns 2 oz.
Mace, bruised 1½ oz.
Nutmeg, sliced 1½ oz.
Common table salt 6 oz.
White-wine vinegar 5 pints
Skim this well, boiling it fifteen minutes, and, filling jars with the fruit,
pour the liquor and spices equally upon them, when about new milk
warm, and tie bladder over the jars.

beet-roots.
Pickled beet-roots which have both fine colour and flavour to
recommend them are seldom to be met with, particularly in the
provinces. If this method is tried, it will most certainly recommend
them. Take half a dozen roots of the deepest blood-red colour, put
them into a pail of cold water, and with a soft brush scour and wash
them well, and without breaking the skin in the least. Put them into a
saucepan of boiling water, and let them boil gently until tender, and
no longer, then take them up, wipe dry, and leave them until the next
day. Now peel them nicely, and cut them across in slices a quarter of
an inch thick, not using the extremities. You may cut the slices into
various ornamental and grotesque figures, and lay them in open-
mouthed jars, and make the following pickle:
Mace 1 oz.
Cloves, bruised 2 oz.
Peppercorns 2 oz.
Bay salt, pounded 4 oz.
Ginger, sliced 2 oz.
Horseradish, sliced 1 oz.
Best vinegar ½ gallon
Boil these ten or fifteen minutes, skimming well, and, when cold,
pour over the roots. Replenish the next day what pickle may have
been absorbed, and cover the jars with bladder and leather. This
pickle is ready in a month, and is very good. It makes a beautiful
garnish with fish at dinner, &c. &c.

button mushrooms, for pies and sauces.

Pick out expressly for this purpose a couple of quarts of fresh
gathered button mushrooms, cut the stalks out closely, and wipe
them singly with a piece of soft flannel dipped in moistened bay salt,
place them apart on dishes and scatter a little finely beaten salt
amongst them. Put them into a roomy saucepan along with
Mace, slightly bruised ½ oz.
White peppercorns, slightly
bruised ¾ oz.
Bay leaves, shred ½ oz.
Cloves, bruised ¼ oz.
and let them simmer gently and until all their juice is taken up. Take
the pan from the fire, and when cooled a little add to them four or five
glasses of good white wine, agitate the mushrooms in the pan,
replace it on the fire and bring it to the boil for one minute, then add
three pints of the best pale vinegar and boil for ten minutes slowly.
Now put the mushrooms into glass or stone jars that are clean and
perfectly dry, and when cold make secure with corks or bladder, and
keep them in a dry cool room. This is an estimable pickle, and will be
appreciated duly by lady-cooks, who best know its usefulness and
the various ways in which both the mushrooms and their pickle may
be made available. The wine should be good old Madeira, and the
quantity may be increased with great advantage.

green parsley.
Take fresh green curled parsley just at maturity, pick out the most
handsome sprigs and put them into salt and water strong enough to
float an egg, and let remain so for five or six days; set them to drain
on a sieve, and then immerse them in another fresh pickle of the
same strength for ten days longer, changing the brine twice. Then
drain them again, and put them into pure cold spring water for two
days, changing the water daily, and when again drained scald them
in boiling water until they are of a nice green, and dry them between
soft cloths. Make, then, the following pickle of
Mace ½ oz.
Nutmeg, sliced 1 oz.
Eschalots, minced 1 oz.
Horseradish, sliced 2 oz.
White-wine vinegar 3 pints
which must be boiled ten or twelve minutes and well skimmed. Put
the parsley branches lightly into jars and pour the pickle over,
covering well. Fill up again with pickle the next day, and cover that
again with pure olive oil to the thickness of an inch or thereabouts.
Cover close with wetted bladder, and over that, when dried, with soft
leather, and keep in a dry airy room.

walnut catsup.
When walnuts have attained maturity, and are being deprived of
the outside green shells by the fruiterers, take half a peck of these
husks, put them into a jar, and pour on them as much cold strong
pickling vinegar as will quite cover them; bung up the jar, and so let
them remain three months. Then press out the liquor upon a sieve,
and to every gallon of it take
Cloves 1 oz.
Mace ¾ oz.
Ginger 1½ oz.
Jamaica pepper 1½ oz.
Black pepper 1 oz.
Garlic 1 oz.
 Port wine lees 1½ quart
Anchovies 8 oz.
With all these boil up the liquor of the walnuts, and let them simmer
twenty minutes, skimming well the whole time, then put it aside for
two days and boil it again until reduced one-third part. When cold,
you may put it in bottles, which cork well and seal with wax. It will be
an excellent catsup, and will be greatly improved by long keeping.

mushroom catsup.
Throw large black flap mushrooms into a vessel, and crush them
with the hands well, throwing in a large handful of common salt to
each peck, and let them so lie for two days. Then put them into a
crock of earthenware, and let them be macerated in a cool baker’s
oven for six hours or so, and, when cold, press out the juice, which
boil with the following, to each gallon of the liquor:
Mace ½ oz.
Jamaica pepper 1 oz.
Black pepper 1 oz.
Cloves 1½ oz.
Ginger 1 oz.
Garlic 1 oz.
Bay salt 9 oz.
The simmering and skimming must be continued as long as any filth
rises, and let it then be put away for a day or two, and boiled up
again, being kept well up to the boiling point until reduced to half its
original quantity. When cold it may be put into bottles and firmly
corked and waxed.

tomato catsup.
When tomatoes are fully ripe take two dozen of fine, large, sound
ones, put them into jars and bake until they are tender; strain off the
water from them, and pass the pulp through a sieve, then add to
every pound of the pulp,
Eschalots, shred 1 oz.
Garlic, shred ½ oz.
Bay salt ¼ oz.
White pepper, finely
powdered ¼ oz.
Chili vinegar 1 pint
Boil them together until the whole is quite soft, and pass it again
through a sieve. Now, to every pound of the pulp add the juice of two
lemons, and one large Seville orange, boil it again until it has
attained the consistence of thick cream, and when cold bottle it; cork
and seal well.

celery, crab salad.

Open and wash thoroughly clean a fine head of celery, wipe dry,
and cut it across into a basin, add to it two ounces of some good rich
old cheese sliced thinly, a teaspoonful of mustard mixed as for the
table, a tablespoonful of best olive oil, the same quantity of vinegar,
with pepper and salt to your taste. Mix all well together.

elder-flower vinegar.
Pick out all the stalks from a peck of fresh elder flowers and put
them into a vessel with two gallons of white-wine vinegar, set them
under the influence of bright sunbeams for fourteen days and
upwards, or at a short distance from a continuous fire, and then filter
the vinegar through a new flannel bag; fill bottles, which must be well
corked and sealed.

tarragon vinegar.
Take the leaves of tarragon just before it blossoms, put a pound of
them to three quarts of the best white-wine vinegar in a stone jar,
and let them infuse sixteen days. Then drain it and strain through a
flannel bag; add for every two gallons a quarter of an ounce of
isinglass dissolved in sherry wine, and let it be agitated briskly in a
large stone bottle two days. Leave it a month to get fine, then draw it
off into clean dry glass bottles, which cork well and seal.

white-gooseberry vinegar.
Vinegars should be made at home if you wish to rely upon their
quality. This will be superior to any white-wine vinegar, “so called at
the shops,” and as such will be extremely serviceable in all large
establishments and families. Choose fruit of the lightest colour you
can get when fully ripe, mash it with a wooden mallet or potato
beetle. To every peck of the fruit put two gallons of water, stir them
well for an hour and let them ferment three weeks, repeating the
stirring daily. Then strain off the liquor and add for every gallon:
Loaf sugar 1 lb.
Yeast, thick and fresh 1 tablespoonful
Treacle 1 tablespoonful
Let it work for three or four days, then put it into a sweet barrel of
convenient size, and stop it down for twelve months.

syrup d’orgeat, a paris receipt.

This elegant syrup is thus made:
Sweet almonds 20 oz.
Bitter almonds 8 oz.
Refined sugar 9 lb.
Water 4 pints
Blanch the almonds, dry them perfectly and pound them in a mortar
with the sugar, adding gradually two thirds of the water; strain
through linen, and wash the almonds on the strainer with the
remainder of the water, and dissolve the sugar in the strained liquor
by a gentle heat. Pour the syrup into an earthenware vessel, remove
the scum, and, when nearly cold, add two ounces of orange-flower
water. Put it into clean clear glass bottles, cork well, and seal
effectually.

an excellent curry-powder.
Turmeric 2 oz.
Coriander seeds 6 oz.
Ginger ½ oz.
Cinnamon 2 drachms
Cayenne pepper 6 drachms
Black pepper ½ oz.
Mace 1 drachm
Fenugreek 1½ oz.
Pimento 2 drachms
Cloves 1 drachm
Nutmeg ½ oz.
Pound all the above separately in a mortar, mix thoroughly for twenty
minutes, then sift and again pound the returns, which, when in finest
powder, mix with bulk; put into dry bottles, cork them well and seal.
Some persons prefer more turmeric and less coriander. Others add
two ounces of the best Durham mustard (scorched). Others, half an
ounce of cardamoms or two ounces of cummin. The colour should
be light yellow—brown, not bright yellow.

notes.
It has been incontestably proved by Baron Liebig and other
Professors of Chemistry, that the albumen and gelatine constitute
the leading nutritive ingredients in the different kinds of flesh and fish
used as food; and I have arrived at the conclusion, that any mode of
curing which deprives them of these valuable properties, is opposed
to facts in science and to common-sense, and cannot therefore be
tolerated.
On the nutritive properties of animal food, Professor Brande
writes: “When the muscular parts of animals are washed repeatedly
in cold water, the fibrinous matter which remains, consists chiefly of
albumen, and is, in its chemical properties, analogous to the clot of
blood.”
In mutton, the albumen or fibrin amounts to as much as twenty-
two per cent., and of gelatine to seven per cent., giving a total of
twenty-nine per cent. of nutritive matter. In beef, the albumen is
twenty, and the gelatine six per cent., yielding a total of twenty-six
per cent. of nutritive matter.
When a piece of meat is covered with salt, or immersed in brine,
the salt penetrates the whole fibre of the flesh, and the juices
contained within are drawn out, and mix with the brine; the salts of
potass contained in it, are exchanged and superseded by those of
soda, derived from the salt with which it has been cured; now, as a
constant supply of potass is required in the system to renew the
muscular fibre, it is quite clear that the want of it must be attended
with some derangement of the health; and hence the benefit derived
from the taking of vegetables, which by supplying potass, make up
for the want of this alkali in the meat.
Albumen is coagulated by heat, and is drawn out by cold water;
this fact is referred to in Note, No. 11.

No. 1. The coating of small articles, of the better sorts, excludes

the air. It is a mixture of gelatine with treacle, applied when hot, and
which when exposed to the air becomes hardened, yet elastic as
india-rubber. See Note, No. 12.
No. 2. The smoking with different sorts of fuel exerts a
considerable influence on the flavour and preservation of the articles
so treated; for example, the mutton of the Ardennes forest, Belgium,
which owes its superiority to the juniper bushes with which it is dried
and smoked. And again, kippered salmon smoked with cedar-wood,
at the request of some of our wealthy Jew families, is excellent,
though rather expensive.
No. 3. The spicing of bacon was adopted some years since, and
chiefly in Ireland, to hide the inferior quality of the meat.
No. 4. Bay salt is far preferable to common salt for curing meats
and fish, but the expense deters many persons from using it, except
in small quantities. The rock, or mineral salt of Cheshire, is equal in
all respects to the bay salt of commerce, and I have long used it with
the greatest success. Common salt leaves a bitter smatch on all food
cured with it after being long kept. See Note, No. 12.
No. 5. There is no remedy for over-salted provisions. You may,
indeed, cut them into slices and lay them in water, but this only
affects the outsides of large pieces, as hams, &c. If I had a ham that
I suspected of being over salted, I should put it in an old bag, and
bury it in my garden for a week or more, according to size.
No. 6. Rubbing large joints of meat over with a profusion of
common salt, and letting them lie, to “draw out the blood,” as it is
termed, is contrary to all reason, for away goes the chief part of the
flavour and nutriment.
No. 7. Sprats are so different in their animal construction as to be
easily detected from genuine fish—Gorgona anchovies. The
Armenian bole, often made use of to colour the sauce, has very
properly been exposed and condemned.
No. 8. Pure olive oil will preserve meat and fish, after it has been
cured, for a long time; but oils drawn from lard and other spurious
imitations, will not fail to hasten their decay. The oil should never be
heated, when used for this purpose.
No. 9. Subjecting meats to a water-bath is not to be resorted to. I
was shown a specification previous to the taking out of a patent (in
France, by a French gentleman) to cure the more expensive sorts of
fish. The first part of the process proposed, was subjecting the fish to
a water-bath, first for three hours, and, changing the water, then to
two hours further immersion in warm water. I, of course, entered my
protest against such unreasonable treatment. I am sure I could not
conjecture what became of both flavour and nutriment after so long
immersion.
No. 10. Meats to be boiled, and particularly fish, must be put into
boiling water, and after being kept up to the boiling point fifteen
minutes or so, let them only simmer until done.
No. 11. The albumen is drawn out from both meat, fish, and
vegetables by cold water; how, then, can we reconcile ourselves with
the foolish old practice of laying the heads, for instance, and other
parts, in pails of water, and leaving them for hours in that state, to
lose all their goodness. Vegetables for pickling, too, are often treated
in this way. Lying in water cannot possibly clean anything. Wash well,
and hang up to dry, is more reasonable.
No. 12. A very effective coating for small cured articles is made
thus: To four pounds of hard, compact gelatine, add as much soft or
rain-water as will just cover it, and stir it about occasionally for six
hours. When it has stood twenty-four hours, and all the water is
absorbed, submit it to the action of heat in a water-bath, and the
gelatine will be quickly dissolved. Take it off the fire as soon as the
froth is perceived to rise, and mix with it three and a half pounds of
molasses, which has previously been made thoroughly hot. Stir the
composition well together while in the water-bath over the fire, not
suffering it to boil. After it has been thus subjected to heat for half an
hour, and well stirred all the time, it should be taken off the fire and
allowed to cool a little; it is now ready for use, and to be applied to
the article of food with a soft brush. Set it in a current of air to harden
quickly. A second paying-over with the composition may be done
with advantage sometimes. For larger articles, as hams, &c. &c., the
best transparent glue may be used instead of gelatine, adding to the
composition, when a little cooled, a few drops of essence of nutmegs
or pimento. If when cold the coating is found to be not firm enough,
the proportion of gelatine or glue must be slightly increased, and
when, on the contrary, it is too brittle, the quantity of molasses may
be increased.
No. 13. For the accommodation of parties residing at a distance,
peat or bog-earth, rock salt from the Cheshire mines, charcoal, &c.
&c., may be had, ready for immediate, use, on application to Mr.
Robinson, provision curer, Runcorn, Cheshire, and on very moderate
terms.
 INDEX.
Aberdeen red herrings, 55
Anchovies, British, 59
— Gorgona, to feed, 59
— Gorgona, smoked, 63
— essence of, 129
Apparatus for drying, smoking, &c., 1
Asparagus, pickled, 155

Bacon, choice breakfast, 7

— Leicestershire spiced, 23
Barberries pickled, 154
Bath chaps, 24
Beef as hare, potted, 120
Beef’s heart, potted, 123
Beef, hung, Shropshire sirloin, 6
— Melton hunt, 8
Beef’s heart, smoked, 10
Beef, Ulverston red flank, 11
— hams, 13
— Hambro rough, 13
— Breslau, 14
— Whitehaven corned, 15
— Dutch, 25
Beetroots, pickled, 167
Bloaters, 50
Black puddings, Jersey, 90
Birmingham and Oxford tripe, 75
Boar’s head smoked, 19
Brawn, calf’s head, 77
Bucaning meats, described, 1
Bucaned beef kidneys, 80
— udder, 81
— calf’s liver, 82
— beef skirts, 83

Cabbage, red, pickled, 145

Catsup, tomato, 130
— mushroom, 171
— walnut, 170
Cauliflowers, pickled, 146
Caveach herrings, 74
Caviare brown, 70
— white, 71
Cavis of mackerel, 72
Celery, pickled, 151
— crab salad, 173
Charcoal, preservative quality, 4
Chetna, Bengal, 131
Coating composition, to make, 180
— to apply, 180
Codlins, pickled, 154
Coated turbot fins, 60
— river eels, 62
— conger eels, 68
— young pig, 114
Collared salmon, 43
 — side of venison, 109
— young pig, 112
Crabs potted, 107
Crab salad, 173
Conger eels, 69
Currants red, pickled, 151
— preserved for tarts, 135
Curry powder, excellent, 175

Dried Mutton, as in the Ardennes, 29

— breast of mutton as venison, 33
Dried Ulverston red flank of beef, 11
— Conger eels, high flavoured, 69
Digby herrings, 55

Eels, conger, smoked, 66

— collared, 68
— dried, 69
— potted, 118
Elder-flower vinegar, 173
Essences to make, 1
Essence of lobsters, 127
— shrimps, 128
— anchovies, 129

Fish, nutriment in (Dr. Davy), 36

— sauce, excellent, 131
Foots of sugar, to be preferred, 4
Fuel for smoking and drying with, 3

Geese, smoked, 79
German saveloys, 89
Gherkins, pickled, 156
Grapes, „ 152
Goose, a perpetual (beef’s heart), 34
Green West India ginger, preserved, 134

Hambro’ Pickle, for beef and pork, 31

Hams, Westphalia, 19
— eclipsed, 20
Hare, potted, 114
Haunch of mutton as venison, 26
Herrings, marinated, 103

Italian Cincerelli, 65

Jersey Black Puddings, 90

Kippered Herrings, 52
— superior, spiced, 53
— salmon, superior, 40

Lemon mangoes, pickled, 159

Lemon pickle, 160
Lemons, preserved, 139
Lobsters, essence of, 127
— pickled, 102
— potted, 106

Mackarel Kippered, 45
— (May-fish), 46
— superior pressed, 47
Maltcooms, to keep cured goods in, 4
Mangoes, pickled, 161
Marinated herrings, 103
— eels, 99
— high flavour, 100
— salmon, 92
— sprats, 104
— shrimps, 96
— salmon roes, 127
— tench and carp, 93
— trout and grayling, 97
— veal, 125
— another method, 126
Marmalade, raspberry, 144
Moor-game, potted, 115
Morello cherries, jam of, 144
Mushroom catsup, 171
— buttons, pickled, for pies and sauces, 168
Mutton, dried as in the Ardennes, 29
— breast of, collar as venison, 33
— haunch as venison, 26
— thigh of l’Diable, 27
— Welsh hams, 28

Nasturtiums, pickled, 166

Neats’ tongues, potted, 121
— pickled, 16
— high flavoured, 17
— to pickle, 30

Oversalted Meat, to rectify, 178

Pickled Vegetables,
— asparagus, 155
— barberries, 154
— beetroots, 167
— cauliflowers, 146
 — currants, red, 151
— celery, 151
— codlins, 154
— gherkins, 156
— golden pippins, 165
— grapes, 152
— mushrooms, white, 147
— mangoes (lemon), 159
— lemon pickle, 160
— mangoes (cucumber), 161
— nasturtiums, 166
— mushroom buttons, 168
— peaches and nectarines, 165
— piccalilli, 157
— parsley (green), 169
— onions, silver, 148
— walnuts, green, 163
— „ white, 164
— samphire, 146
Pickled Meats and Fish,
— herrings, 73
— smelts, 101
— lobsters, 102
Pickle for pork, 31
— superior, 32
— a preservative (excellent), 32
— the Hambro’, for beef and pork, 31
Pig, a young one collared, 112
Polony, Russian, 87
Provocative, a, 132
Portable soup, 78
— much richer, 78
Porker’s head, smoked, 23
Preservatives, 4
Potted beef’s heart, 122
— crabs, 107
— hare, 114
— eels, 118
— lobsters, 106
— Moor game, 115
— ox cheek, 84
— neat’s tongue, 121
— beef as hare, 120
— pigeons, 86
— snipes and woodcocks, 116
— shrimps, 119
— „ l’Diable, 85
— trout, 117
— venison, 124
Preserved
— apricots, 140
— barberries, 142
— cucumbers, 137
— golden pippins, 143
— greengage plums, 138
— damsons, 140
— Hambro’ grapes, 142
— lemons, 139
— Morello cherries, 141
— peaches and nectarines, 138
— tomatoes, 136

Smoked Meats,
— beef’s heart, 10
— beef hams, 13
— „ Breslau, 14
— boar’s head, 19
— calf’s head brawn, 76
— Dutch beef, 25
— geese, smoked, 78
— goose, a perpetual, 34
 — Hambro beef, 13
— hung beef, 6
— Leicestershire spiced bacon, 23
— Melton hunt beef, 9
— mutton, as in the Ardennes, 29
— neats’ tongues, high flavour,17
— Norfolk chine, 21
— porker’s head, 23
— polony, Russian, 87
— German saveloys, 89
— venison, side of, 111
— Whitehaven corned beef, 15
— Westphalia hams, 19
— „ eclipsed,20
Smoked Fish,
— eels, river, 62
— „ conger, 66
— Gorgona anchovies, 63
— herrings, bloaters, 50
— „ kippered, 51
— Mackerel, kippered, 45
— „ May-fish, 46
— „ superior, 47
— salmon, Welsh, 37
— „ Dutch, 39
— „ superior kipper, 40
— „ American, 48
— „ collared, 43
— herrings, Digby, 55
— „ Aberdeen reds,55
— speldings, 56
— sprats, 56
Smelts, pickled, 101
— potted, 105
Snipes and woodcocks, potted, 116
Sprats, marinated, 104
Shrimps, essence of, 128
Sausage spice (French), 132
Syrup for preserving fruit, to prepare, 132
Samphire, green, pickled, 146
Silver onions, pickled, 148
Syrup d’Orgeat (French), 174

Tench and Carp, marinated, 93

Tomatoes paste, 129
— catsup, 130
— „ 172
Tripe, Birmingham and Oxford, 75
Trout and grayling, marinated, 97
— potted, 117
Turbot fins, 60

Veal Marinated, 125

— „ 126
Vinegar, elder flower, 173
— tarragon, 173
— white gooseberry, 174

Walnuts, pickled, 164

— preserved, 149
— green, pickled, 163
— catsup, 170

Yorkshire Pressed Pork, 74