Apparel Manufacturing-I

Subject Code: AE 205

Index
Serial Topic Name Page No.
No.
01 Introduction 02-06

02 Structure of Textile and Apparel Industry 07-13

03 Sizing System and Sizing Ranges 14-17

04 Pattern Making 18-23

05 Marker Making 24-29

06 Fabric Spreading 30-33

07 Fabric Cutting 34-39

08 Interlining and Lining 41-46

09 Trimmings and Accessories 47-54

10 Seam and Stitch 55-60

11 Garments Inspection and Quality Control 61-62

Edited By:
Nazmul Hasan
14th Batch
Textile Engineering College, Zorarganj, Chattogram

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 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Introduction

1. What do you mean by Apparel?

Ans: Apparel means all garments or items of clothing, any part, which is a textile produced by weaving,
knitting, or non woven.

2. Describe the history of apparel industry of Bangladesh.

Ans: Textiles play a vital role in the economics of Bangladesh. It is said that it is the life line of the economy
of Bangladesh. But this place is not obtain overnight. The textile industry of Bengal is very old. Once the
cloth of Bangladesh achieved worldwide fame specially muslin and jamdani cloth of our country was used
as the luxurious garments of the royal figures in Europe and other countries. The British rulers in India
didn’t develop our cloth industries at all. Rather they destroyed them and imported cloths from England.
Garment Industry Large-scale production of readymade garments (RMG) in organized factories is a
relatively new phenomenon in Bangladesh.
1960, A garment factory named Reaz garments was established in Dhaka, Bangladesh.
In 1967, the Reaz garments First Exported 10,000 Pieces of shirts to England.
1981-82, Bangladesh Started to export garments to UK & the Value was 0.1 Billion BDT.
1991-92, the export value of garments becomes 45 Billion Taka.
1998-1999, the export value raised to 250Billion Taka.
Now the export value becomes the 84% of Bangladesh’s National export Earnings. In 1984 the number of
factories were 384 & now it has become more than 5000.

3. Describe a short story of Bangladesh apparel industry since the liberation war of Bangladesh.
Ans: After the independence in 1971, Bangladesh was one of poorest countries in the world. No major
industries were developed in Bangladesh, when it was known as East Pakistan, due to discriminatory
attitude and policies of the government of the then West Pakistan. So, rebuilding the war-ravaged country
with limited resources appeared to be the biggest challenge.
The industry that has been making crucial contribution to rebuilding the country and its economy is none
other than the readymade garment (RMG) industry which is now the single biggest export earner for
Bangladesh. The sector accounts for 83% of total export earnings of the country.
The apparel industry of Bangladesh started its journey in the 1980s and has come to the position it is in
today. The late Nurool Quader Khan was the pioneer of the readymade garment industry in Bangladesh.
He had a vision of how to transform the country. In 1978, he sent 130 trainees to South Korea where they
learned how to produce readymade garments.

4. Explain the present scope in RMG sector of Bangladesh.

Ans: RMG sector of Bangladesh has some key factors which inspired the steady growth of this sector.
Though it’s a matter of great surprise for so many that how the RMG sector of Bangladesh continues to
show its robust performance in the world.
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 The main key factors which have a great influence on the RMG sector of Bangladesh are the following:
i. Vast labor force.
ii. Skilled human resources,
iii. Technological upgrades,
iv. Government supports for textile and clothing,
v. Special export processing zones,
vi. Creation of textile and clothing villages,
vii. Duty reduction for the import of machines.
viii. Income tax reduction,
ix. International supports like GSP, GSP+, duty-free access, etc.
By using the above key points we can easily take place the world’s readymade garments market very
strongly..

5. Write a SWOT analysis of Bangladesh RMG sector.

Ans: SWOT is an acronym which contains four logical analytical words for any kinds of analysis. These are
Strength, Weakness, Opportunity, and Threat.
RMG is the leading industry in Bangladesh. It is basically a labor-intensive industry and it needs limited
financial investment and relatively simple technology compared to other high technical industries.
SWOT analysis of textile sector for Bangladesh:
Strength:
 Low labor cost.
 Energy at comparatively lower price.
 Wide ranges port facilities.
 More than 30 years of history and experience of garments manufacturing.
 Strong backward linkage in knit sector.
 Huge production capacity.
 Highest number of green industries.
 Improved worker-management relationship.
 Support of government as a major export sector.
Weakness:
 Long lead-time
 Lack of marketing tactics.
 A small number of manufacturing methods.
 Low productivity.
 Weak technology management.
 Weak industrial engineering, longer lead time.
 Poor transportation and logistics facility.
 High tax rate.
 High energy price.
 Market and product knowledge gap.
Opportunity:
 More order flow from China due to change in global business dynamics.
 Improved image and confidence of foreign buyers.
 More practice of sustainable solutions.
 More emphasize on cost control.
 Huge growth in denim sector.

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  More practice of product development and expanding value added services.
 Export flow towards non-traditional markets Increase in the availability of local technology and
consulting service providing agents
Threats:
 Over dependency on foreign raw material.
 Very low profit margin in basic items.
 No or very little investment in non-cotton-based fiber and fabric industries.
 Energy crisis and price hike.
 High worker wage relation to skill level.
 Rapid technological growth in competing countries Sub-standard education and training facilities.
 Little or no research and development.
 No proper road map for sustainable development technological change.

6. Why knit wear sector becoming more popular in Bangladesh?

Ans: The core strength of the Knitwear sector is its backward linkage. Now a days, The Knitwear sector of
Bangladesh has the unique structure as well as the competitive advantage not only in terms of price but
also the product quality. There are many other advantages of Bangladesh Knitwear sector, such as:
 Knitwear is a self-sufficient sector in all respects; currently the sector is supplying 90% of the knit fabric
requirements.
 Local yarn suppliers provide a large sum of yarn demand for the industry.
 Many garments have their own dyeing and finishing units.
 A separate dyeing and finishing industry also has grown up over the time to support the sector.
 More than 200 composite factories.
 Bangladeshi Knitwear is almost unbeatable in price advantages in the world.
 Bangladesh provides not only a cheap labor force, which is unbeatable but they are also peerless in
stitching capability.
 Knitwear is exported to 153 countries of the world.
 Strong backward linkage facilities.
 Long experience of apparel business and a created value chain across the globe.
 More than 2000 knitwear factories.

7. Explain the importance of textile sectors in Bangladesh.

Ans: Garments Industry has experienced a huge growth in last few decades. It has a great prospect in
Bangladesh economy specially in exporting. The importance of this Sector are given below:
i. Garment Industry contributes 84.3% (2021-2022) of total export earning of the country.
ii. Contributes over 14% of GDP, 40% industrial value addition comes from the textile sector.
iii. About 4.4 Million peoples are working in this sector.
iv. Around 5000 Garment Factories are running which is creating the most employment.
v. The industry is promoting women empowerment. Around 90% workers are women in Bangladesh’s
Textile industry.
vi. Provides 2 lakh jobs in waste recycling industry related to textiles.
vii. Textile Industry is also promoting the growth of banking, insurance, shipping, transport, toiletries,
cosmetics, hotel and other related economical activities.

8. What is role of textile engineering in textiles and apparel industry.

Ans: Roles of Textile Engineer in Apparel Industry:

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Planning: Textile engineer has to plan in all section for the smooth flow of production. He has to distribute
the work of the worker for balancing the work.
Process Control: He has to control the production & other sections and the people according to the plan to
get optimum efficiency.
Organizing: He watches over the manufacturing process and introduces required system if needed for
quality production.
Reviewing: He has to review the activities of shift in charge and supervise every month according to
production manager order.
Leadership: Textile engineer makes the worker to give their best by inspiring and motivating. He commits
himself to the company and that same kind of commitment in his followers. He knows their strength,
weakness, hope and goal.
Management Contact: He needs consultation with production manager in matter of production planning
and work distribution of people. He also consults with quality assurance manager in case of quality falls as
well as production quality for individual buyer.
Maintenance Schedule: He manage the schedule with maintenance team to check and maintain proper
maintenance for every machine.
Inventory Control: Engineers plays an important role to control appropriate and necessary spare parts and
raw material for smoothly running the factory.
Environmental Conscious: Textile engineer should control to create minimum pollution from the factory
with help of HR & compliance team.
Marketing Policy: This is very important section for a factory. Textile engineers should play right step to
familiar and promote its product to buyer.
Fashion Design: Designers and merchandisers give careful consideration to these fundamentals for even
the most basic apparels.
Merchandising: Apparel merchandiser has to handle some buyers smartly to consider all of the features of
a product, including design, quality, product life-cycle, consumer’s buying ability, consumer behavior and
demand during his preparation.

9. What are the role of a Textile Engineer as a Merchandiser?

Ans: As a Merchandiser a Textile Engineer has to do below Jobs:
 To Market different products and negotiate the price with the Buyer for confirming the business.
 To collect garments export order from the Buyer.
 To estimate time schedule for orders based on the commitment with buyer.
 To arrange all the raw materials, trims & accessories needed for the Products.
 To Select Garment factory if needed.
 To follow up the garment production progress as per the time schedule.
 To follow up the quality level of the produced products.
 To follow up the banking & shipments arrangements with commercial team.
 Maintain a continuous communication with the buyer to ensure good relationship.

10. Discuss the challenges of textile and apparel industry.

Ans: Challenges of textile industry –
i. Cancellation of Quota system was one of the biggest challenge for Bangladesh since 2004.
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 ii. To make the environment of the factories safer.
iii. Shortage of gas and power supply.
iv. The insufficient supply of raw materials.
v. Increasing trend of labor Cost or wages.
vi. Overall Lead time of Bangladesh is much higher than any other competitor countries because of the
lacking in our backward linkages.
vii. Transportation Lead time of Bangladesh is also higher, to Europe the sea shipment lead time is 40-
45 days, to USA it’s near about 60days.
viii. To be competitive in the global market both in terms of cost and quality.
ix. Lack of technical and market research facilities.

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 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Structure of Textile & Apparel Industry

1. Define: FOB, CIF, Allowance, Bar tack, Blind Stitch, CMT, Applique, Piping, Dummy, Bespoke, Pattern,
Invoice, Grading, Basic block, Trimmings, Disposable apparels, Grainline, LC, Accessories, Lining,
Interlining, Marker, Ligne Number, CF Line.
Ans: F.O.B: If the value of sold products is mentioned in the invoice without the transportation cost then it is
called F.O.B price.
CIF (Cost Insurance Freight) : If the value of sold products is mentioned in the invoice including the
transportation cost and insurance costs then it is called CIF.
Allowance: Garments are produced adding some extra measurement with the body measurement which is
called allowance
Bar tack: Bar tacking is a process of sewing which is done within a very small length. In this process,
sewing is done twice to increase the load bearing capacity of that. place
Blind Stitch: A blind stitch in sewing is a method of joining two pieces of fabric so that the sewing thread is
invisible, or nearly invisible.
CMT: CMT (cut-make-trim) means the garments order supplier will provide fabrics & design and the
manufacturer’s duty will be to cut the fabric and after making the garments as per supplied style, will deliver
it to the order supplier.
Applique: In order to increase the beauty of garments some extra fabrics are attached with the face side of
garments which is called applique.
Piping: Piping is a trim or edging formed by sewing a thin strip of folded fabric typically bias binding into a
narrow tube and attaching it to the edge of a piece of fabric.
Dummy: A model of the exact shape of a human body that is kept standing on a stand is called dummy.
Bespoke: Bespoke are those garments which are made for specific person by taking him measurement.
Pattern: The replica, shape or template of a part of a garment is called the pattern.
Invoice: An invoice is a document issued by a seller to the buyer that indicates the quantities and costs of
the products or services provider by the seller.
Grading: Grading, or pattern grading, is the process of creating a range of sizes for a single apparel style.
Basic Block: The pattern which is made according to the dimension and shape of a human body but without
any allowance or style is called the Basic block.
Trimming: The materials which are attached with the body of garments by sewing are termed as trimming.
Disposable Apparels: A disposable apparel is a product designed for a single use after which it is recycled
or is disposed as solid waste.
Grain Line: To align the pattern on the fabric, pattern pieces normally carry a line which is called grain line.
Grain line is marked on the pattern with a line and arrows.
L.C : A letter of credit, or a credit letter, is a letter from a bank guaranteeing that a buyer’s payment to a
seller will be received on time and for the correct amount. If the buyer is unable to make a payment on the
purchase, the bank will be required to cover the full or remaining amount of the purchase.

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Accessories: Accessories or Garment accessories means all the items used in the garment except the
main raw material (Fabric).
Interlining: In certain parts of garments, a special fabric layer is used between two layers of fabric for
retention of the shape, increasing the strength & thickness and that special type of fabric layer is called
interlining.
Lining: The fabric which covers the garments fabric from the inner side of the garment is called lining.
Marker: The total patterns of a garment are drawn in a planned way mainly on paper and which is used for
cutting of fabric by spreading it on the fabric layers, is called marker.
Ligne Number: It is the measuring unit of the button. It indicates the diameter of the button. If diameter
increase then ligne no is increased.
We know, 11 mm diameter = 16 ligne no.
C.F. Line: In the front side of a shirt, the line from collar to bottom on which buttons are added is called C.F.
Line (Center Front Line).
CM (Cost of making): Buyer will provide all the fabric & accessories. Manufacturers have to make only
garment & he will get charge of making only.
Dart: In order to remove the wedge shape from the back of garment a desired shape is created by sewing
which is called dart.
Ticket No: The number which is used to show how much the sewing thread is thinner or thicker is called the
ticket number.

2. Define quota, non quota and category.

Ans: Quota: A certain amount of garment products which are allowed to be exported by the manufacturing
country to the imported country is called quota. Actually this takes place between the garment of exporter
country & importer country.
Non quota: The categories or items for which there is no export or import limitation is called the non-quota.
Category: During exporting and importing, a specific garment is marked or expressed by number which is
called the category. The main garments importing countries such as USA, Canada, EEC countries use
different category for a specific number. In the world market 115 categories of garments are imported and
exported. Till now 20 categories of garments are being exported from Bangladesh.

3. Elaborate the following terms: BGMEA, LDC, ISO, ASTM, AATCC, CIF, BSTI, AQL
Ans: BGMEA: Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association
LDC: Least Developed Countries
ISO: International Organization for Standardization
ASTM: American Society for Testing and Materials
AATCC: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
CIF: Cost, insurance, and freight
BSTI: Bangladesh Standards and Testing Institution
AQL: Acceptable Quality Level or Acceptance Quality Level.

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4. Briefly explain the sequence of Sample Apparel Making.
Ans: Sample is the prototype or model of the garments upon what buyer can decide on how and whether to
confirm the order or not. In garments industry, this sample come from buyer and it is followed from bulk
production called sample.
Sequence of Garment Sample Development:
First Pattern
The first physical version of any garment as per the artwork done by designer and/or
developer
Purpose : See the design work and test the fitting.
Second Pattern
Usually designer/developer always asks for some changes to the first pattern. Second
pattern is made as per comments.
Counter Sample
Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not on
designers artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser.
Purpose : See the Workmanship and test the Factory skill.
Salesman Sample
Sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are on speculation; usually in L size in
all color combinations of expected order. Buyers held a meeting with its customer and
record their response on order quantity per color, size, etc. and finally place order to their
vendor.
Purpose : Sales Meeting by Retailers market Appraisal.
Photo Sample
Samples are made with color and material to be worn by the models on the event of shooting for catalog.
Approval Sample
In any discrete period of time, whenever if required and revision in the sample, a new sample is made
(sometimes mock-up is workable too) as per new specification. It is sent to buyer for his approval of the
conformity that the revision is done correctly.
Pre-production Sample
When materials for bulk production arrive, then the factory makes a sample with the actual material and
sends it to the customer.
Production Sample
It is a reference to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specifications. Buyer wants to be
assured that correct material is sourced and Line Workmanship conformed to the quality level.
Shipping Sample
A sample is kept from every pre-shipping inspection to be referred, if required after the order has been
delivered. Usually for any disputes (e.g. claim) shipping sample is important.

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5. Write down the features of Tailoring system and industrial production system.
Ans: Industrial garment system is a system where garment is produced for mass people according to
standard measurement chart. Large number of laborers and different types of machines are required for
making dresses. Here, thousands of dresses are made by following an ideal body measurement where
maximum of 15minutes is required to make a dress. In the case of industrial garments manufacturing,
dress fitting is not perfect for all time and required a higher amount of capital.
Tailoring system is a system where garment is made for a particular person according to the body
measurement of the person. A small shop with few machines and 1-3 persons is required to run a tailoring
process. No need huge investment. In tailoring garment become more perfect as required client.

6. What is the difference between garment production and tailoring process.

Ans: Difference between garment production and tailoring process :
Tailoring Production Garments process
Garments are made according to individual body Garments are made according to standard body
measurement. measurement.
For making a garment 1 or 2 persons are required For making a garment many persons are required
Generally, 1 or 2 machines are required. Many and different types of machines are required
More times needed to make a garment Less time needed to make a garment.
Fitting of the garment with body is good Fitting of the garment with body may not be good
for all
Small space is required Large space is required
Investment cost is low Investment cost is high
No needed for pattern grading Pattern grading is required
Fabric wastage is high Fabric wastage is comparatively low
The amount of risk of loss for defects in garment is The amount of risk of loss for defects in garment is
small more.
Total value of a garment is high Total value of a garment is comparatively low
Garments are not supplied with attractive packing. Garments are supplied with attractive packing

7. Define Category, Forward linkage.

Ans: Category: In garments industry, especially in import, export and in the field of business, a specific
garment is marked or expressed by a number and this number is called the category number or category of
the garment.
Forward Linkages: The activities and movements required to move the business forward play a vital role to
expand global “Ready-Made Garments” (RMG) business in country is called as forward linkages.

8. State the price quotation system in apparel costing.

Ans: Price quotation is based on order confirmation once style selected by buyer. We provided costing to
buyer or quoted a cost to the buyer. The price quotation method is an important factor in the garments
manufacturing sector. There are different types of price quotation method. By applying these methods, any
garments export order can be fixed.
There are mainly four methods for price fixation of an export order. Those are in the following:
 FOB
 C&F
 CIF
 CMT

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9. Write down on importance of development of backward linkage in textile sector.
Ans: In global apparel markets, international buyers place an order with competitive pricing along with
shortest possible lead time. For Bangladesh, lead time is fast emerging as a serious bottleneck. Backward
linkages are playing major part of a garment industry to reduce lead time and offer competitive price in the
international market. It is inevitable that one of the major issues of success in readymade garment (RMG)
industry in Bangladesh must depend on backward linkage conditions, support, and strategy formulation.

10. Discuss the economic importance of RMG sector in Bangladesh.

Ans: RMG sector is one of the important sectors which has so many contributions to the economic
development of Bangladesh.
Spinning and Knitting/ Weaving:
With increasing garments sector spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing &
chemical sectors adding value in the economy.
Textile and Garments
Garments sector growth has a positive impact on widen the co-relative
sectors. At starting we needed to import fabrics, trims, chemicals,
accessories, etc. from abroad. With the vast growth of the RMG sector, we
have our own knitting sector, yarn sector, chemical sector, accessories
sector, and so on.
Banking & Insurance
RMG growth has a positive impact on the growth of financial sector in Bangladesh. With the help of letter of
credits(L/C) both garments & textile sectors flourishes.
Shipping and Logistics
In accordance with the growing garments sector shipping & logistics sector become an important part of the
economy.
Transport & Communication
Along with the tremendous improvement of the garments sector, the transportation system of our country
becomes more developed. Not only railroads but highway roads also developed & increased.
Engineering & Utility
With the growth of the RMG sector, engineering & utility services starting to expand its area. In most
readymade garments industry electrical engineering, mechanical engineering, electro-mechanical
engineering, automation engineering, or industrial engineering department play a vital role.

Hotel, Real Estate & Tourism

More than 1500 foreign apparel buyer’s representatives visit Bangladesh in a year. They like to stay three
to five-star hotels in our country hence it increases the hotel & tourism business in our country.
Other Business Sectors
Some business sector growth increased with the RMG sector. Some of them are competing with RMG, for
example, the electronic sector; some are anyway linked with the RMG sector, for example, accessories or
footwear sectors.
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11. Describe apparel manufacturing flow chart.
Ans: Operation of Apparel Manufacturing Process are given below in details:
Design/Sketch: It is given by buyers to manufacturers containing sketches including measurements of
particular styles.
Basic Block: Pattern Which is made with the exact measurement of the garment without any Allowance.
Working Pattern: The pattern which is made with the exact body measurement including with all the
allowance is called working pattern.
Sample Making: Based on the Specification sheet provided by the Buyer, The sample is
made & send to Buyer for Approval.
Approved Sample: After all the efforts the sample is validated by the buyer. This sample is
called Approved Sample.
Production Pattern: Based on the working pattern & approved sample, this Pattern is
Prepared to Use in Bulk Production.
Grading: Based on the Specific sizes patterns is made. This is called pattern Grading.
Marker Making: Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components for different
sizes for a particular style of garments.
Fabric Spreading: To spread the fabrics on table properly for cutting.
Cutting : To cut fabric according to marker dimension.
Sorting & Bundling: Sort out the fabric according to size and for each size make in
individual bundles.
Sewing: To assemble a full garment.
Ironing & Finishing: After sewing we will get a complete garment which is treated with
steam ironing & also several finishing processes are done for example extra loose thread
cutting.
Final Inspection: Should be approved as initial sample.
Packing: Treated by Polyethylene bag.
Dispatching: Ready for export

12. Mention different types of fabrics commercial names those are used in apparel industry.
Ans: There are mainly two types of fabric used in garments manufacturing. Those are-
 Woven fabric
 Knitted fabric
Different types of woven fabrics are vastly used in garments manufacturing, those are in the below:
i. Buckram fabric
ii. Cambric fabric
iii. Casement fabric
iv. Cheese fabric
v. Chiffon fabric
vi. Crepe fabric
vii. Denim fabric
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viii. Flannel fabric
ix. Gabardine fabric
x. Georgette fabric
xi. Kashmir silk
xii. Khadi fabric
xiii. Muslin fabric
xiv. Tissue fabric
xv. Mesh fabric
xvi. Velvet fabric.

Different types of knit fabrics, which are vastly used in apparel manufacturing, are mentioned in the
following:
i. Single jersey fabric
ii. Double jersey fabric
iii. Burn out jersey fabric
iv. Rib fabric
v. Interlock fabric
vi. Piquet fabric
vii. Lacoste fabric
viii. Fleece fabric

Show the organizational structure of an apparel industry.

All the garments are apparel, but all the apparels are not garment" -explain this statement with example.
Differentiate between the approved sample and counter sample.

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 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Sizing System & Sizing Ranges

1. Define Sizing.
Ans: Sizing system is defined as a set of sizes derived using common assumptions, methods of
development & size categories within a system to present in a retail situation.

2. Draw a neat sketch of a basic shirt/woven shirt mentioning its different components.
Ans: A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body. There are various types of shirt for men and women.
Basic shirt is one of them. There’s nothing more classic than a woven collared shirt. This dress has a
formal collar, a full-length opening at the front from the collar to the hem and sleeves with cuffs. In this
article, I will discuss on various parts of basic shirt.

3. Illustrate and indentify different components of a Trouser/Pants.

Ans: Pant is an item of clothing worn from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately. It is also
called trouser. It is the most common and popular dress around the world for men and women. Various
components of a basic pant are given below.

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 4. Illustrate and indentify different components of a T-Shirt.
Ans: The t-shirt is the most popular garment item for both men and women. It is the most common and
popular dress around the world for men and women. Various components of a T-shirt are given below:

5. Illustrate and indentify different components of a Polo T-Shirt.

Ans: The polo t-shirt is the most popular garment item for both men and women. It is the most common and
popular dress around the world for men and women. Various components of a polo T-shirt are given below

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 6. Make a chart of a standard body measurement for gents/ regular height man (5’6”).
Ans: Standard body measurement for regular height man (5’4” to 5’6”):

7. Write down the standard body measurement of a tall height man (5’7”)
Ans: Standard body measurement for tall height man (5’7” to 6’3”)

8. Write down the standard body measurement for ladies with neat sketch.
Ans: Regular Body Size Measurement for Ladies (4’1” to 5’3”)

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 9. Write down the standard body measurement for ladies (tall size) with neat sketch.
Ans: Tall Body Size Measurement for Ladies (5’4” to 5’7”)

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 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Pattern Making

1. What is pattern? Briefly discuss the pattern making procedure/steps of garment pattern making.
Ans: : The making of exact image of each part of a garment in a hard board paper is called pattern.
Patterns are made in two steps:
i. Block pattern
ii. Working pattern
Block pattern: Block pattern or basic block indicates the original pattern. Block Pattern is made based on
the specific and standard body measurement without any design or style. It is produced according to exact
dimension of body for different age group and gender.
Block pattern making method:
i. Flat method: In this method, different parts of garments, specially major parts are made by technical
drawing. The efficiency of pattern making is depends on pattern maker. This pattern can be made
by both manual and computerized method.
ii. Modeling: It is primary and first method and widely used in garment industry. Block is made with
standard body measurement of a mannequin. This block is called toile. Toile is worn on the
mannequin and adjusted the pattern necessarily. Then Toile is worn out from the body and
individual parts of Toile are drawn on hard paper. This pattern is more accurate and beautiful but it
takes more time.
Working pattern/Garments Pattern: Garments patterns are made of basic block. Individual block pattern
are drawn on hardboard. This pattern is considered with the basic block, seam allowance, trimming
allowance, center frontline, button hole, dart pleat and allowances. Working pattern are needed for each
and every part of the garments. Working patterns are then cut with a sharp scissor or knife. Garment size
and name of the parts are written on the pattern pieces. Sample garments are made from the working
pattern.

2. What are the objectives of pattern?

Ans: Here the objectives of pattern:
i. Sketch/Design different parts of the garments
ii. To make a marker for large scale production.
iii. Pattern can be used for many time.
iv. Developing skill of designing fashionable garments.
v. Using pattern making and grading.
vi. Saving time and money to make fast and cheaper production.

3. What are the importance of pattern making?

Ans: Importance of pattern making:
i. For successful dress designing, pattern making is the fundamental step.
ii. It is a blueprint of the garment on the basis of cutting.
iii. It is the technical drawing or drafting of a garment.

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 iv. Standard size charts, dress forms are measured, these measurements are converted into 2D
patterns and then garments are made from that pattern.
v. Pattern making has become necessary for a fashion designers to make different garments.
vi. It helps to analyze the causes of mistakes during sewing.
vii. It helps to understand the correct use of grain lines in achieving the desired goal in clothing.
viii. Patterns can always be used again in future.

4. State the difference between basic block and working pattern.

Ans: Difference between Block pattern and Working pattern:

Basic Block Working Pattern

Block Pattern is made based on the specific and Garments patterns are made of basic block.
standard body measurement without any design or Individual block pattern are drawn on hardboard or
style. mount board.
Have simple basic style. Made based on basic pattern.
Made according to the Ideal measurement of the Made according to the exact measurement of the
body body
Any special design is not considered. Seam, allowance and trimmings are considered
Individual components cannot be separated Individual components can be separated
No indication of grain line. Grainline exist.
Different basic block used for different age or Working pattern used for making sample pattern.
groups.

5. State the difference between working patterns and production patterns.

Ans: Difference between working pattern and production pattern:

Working Pattern Production Pattern

Sample garment made by working pattern. Production Garments are made by production
pattern.
This pattern made on the basis of basic block This pattern made on the basis of working pattern.
No grading is done. Grading is done by grading process.
Uses as base for manipulation when generating Used for bulk production in the garments.
design pattern.
Contain no cutting, trimming, sewing. Contain cutting, trimming, sewing.
Final production is not done by working pattern. Final production is done by production pattern
which is used for higher production.

6. What do you mean by "Pattern Grading"? How it is done?

Ans: Pattern grading is the process of manual or digital adjustment of sample pattern from one size to
another with the help of size specification chart and without changing the original style, initial look and
shape etc.
Two methods of Grading:
i. Manual Grading
ii. Computer Aided Grading
Manual Grading: Manual pattern grading is an old method but still, many designers and garment
manufacturers use the manual method of garment pattern making. This grading process is done manually.
Manual pattern grading is done in the following methods:

19
i. Cut and Spread: This is considered the easiest method. It is performed by cutting the pattern and
spreading the pieces by a certain amount, to grade up or down. The only tools needed are a pencil,
ruler, scissors and measuring tape.

ii. Pattern Shifting: When pattern designer want to increase or decrease the overall dimensions of a
pattern to get different sizes is called pattern shifting. Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the
overall dimensions of a pattern by moving it a measured distance up and down and left and right, and
redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the cut-and-spread method. To make the pattern
larger, transfer the original pattern into another sheet of paper. To make it smaller, they will have to trim
the edges to the desired dimensions.
Computer aided Grading: Computed grading (CAD) is the fastest pattern grading techniques. By this
method every manufacturer’s get more accurate, precise, detailed patterns in a short time.
Computer based pattern grading systems are operating in one of two ways:
i. The patterns can be cut out and can be used to make marker manually, if necessary. The graded
sizes can be stored in the model files of the computer and recalled when cutting markers for that
style are to be planned on the system.
ii. The grading increments are fed in to the computer and the different sizes are generated
automatically using the same method as applied for manual Grading. The pattern for each individual
size is calculated separately starting from the data in the size charts. The resulting layer of the
patterns can be displayed to scale on the computer monitor for visual assessment and if necessary
adjustment.

7. Requirements of pattern making.

Ans: To work efficiently the pattern maker must have the proper tools & supplies.
Mostly the following tools are used as a Pattern making tools in Apparel Industry:
i. Straight Pin: For Draping & Fitting this tool is used.
ii. Straight Pin Holder: Pin cushion or magnetic holder are used.
iii. Scissors: Paper Scissor & Fabric Scissor are used.
iv. Pencils & Pens: Mechanical Pencil & Sharpener. Red & Blue color Pencils are used to identify the
changes in pattern.
v. Rulers: 36 inch Ruler, 18×2 Plastic Rule (for measuring Curves), Tailors Square.
vi. Curve Rulers: French Curve Ruler is used for shaping arm hole & neck line.
vii. Hip Curve Ruler: Shapes hipline, hem & others.
viii. Hanger Hooks: To hold pattern together for hanging on rods.
ix. Push Pins: For pattern Manipulations & prevent pattern slipping while cutting .
x. Black Twill Tape: For placement of styles on form or garments.
xi. Metal weight.
xii. Measuring tape.
xiii. Tailors chalk.

8. Explain the basic principle of pattern making.

Ans: To create a sample pattern, a pattern maker would have to follow five essential steps:
Gathering the tools: Pencils, erasers, patterning paper, rulers etc.
Taking Body Measurements: Patterns are either custom designed for individual clients or designed as
general sizes for a larger consumer base.

20
Adding styles and designs: The original pattern draft is made according to customer's body
measurements and styles.
Grading the Design: Grading is the process of readjusting basic paper patterns to fit different sizes using
the same original pattern template.
Moving on to Draping: Draping refers to styling a customer with the cut out fabric on drafted design.

9. What are the benefits of computer aided pattern making and grading process over manual making?
Ans: Benefits of CAD:
i. Development of new collection effected by modification of existing stock design.
ii. Basic pattern constructed by body measurement (without allowance)
iii. Using CAD helps to decrease of time.
iv. Basic pattern must be digitalized.
v. They can be retrieve from computer after tool
vi. Displayed on screen modified at any time.
vii. Whole shape can be adjusted, line can be deleted/extended
viii. Points can be super imposed.
ix. Parts can be rotated, moved.
x. Range of size can be saved.

10. Describe the principle of pattern making process for shirt.

Ans: According to the ideal measurement, 40cm neck and 100cm chest for a boy the principles of pattern
making of a shirt is given below:
To make the pattern the necessary measurements are given below:
 Neck size: 40.0cm
 Chest: 100.0cm
 Scye depth: 24.4cm
 Natural waist length: 44.6cm
 Half back: 20.0cm
 Sleeve length: 80.0cm
 Cuff size: 23.0cm
Pattern Making Process
i. Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel product.
ii. Consider the design details.
iii. Select the materials (fabrication and trims)
iv. Construct the sample (prototype)
v. Fit, revise and finalize the sample
vi. Create an apparel technical design pack
vii. Prepare pattern for mass production

11. State the function of CAD and CAM.

Ans: Functions of the CAD/CAM process in the textile and garment industry are described below:
Connectivity: The need for companies in design (buyers, designers, suppliers), production
(manufacturers) and retailing (e-commerce/e-tailing) in the design and production chain to communicate in
a global market.
21
Design creation/ideation: Through image/mood boards, designs, virtual fabrics/clothing, flats.
Production data management: The ability to use product data management (PDM) software to control the
whole production cycle of a garment. This type of software allows tracking of the workflow and identification
of the status of an individual garment at any one time.
Pattern design: This is divided into two areas, one being the specification drawings, the second at PDS
(pattern design systems). It is in these systems that the pattern is generated for a garment.
Garment sampling: At this stage, the pattern created in the PDS can be modelled in both physical patterns
and 3D virtual systems. In these systems, garments can be virtually stitched together, tested for fit in a
virtual environment, and then even visualized on virtual runways. It is also at this stage that patterns can be
exported to digital textile printing machines, and prototype garments produced.
Sizing: The advent of body scanners had led to an increase in made-to-measure clothing, leading
companies to develop mass customization as a process for ensuring better customer fit, style, and options.
Pattern grading: Pattern grading systems now mean that the processing of patterns is leading to more
streamlined process for pattern making. Pattern grading is done by inputting pattern data, creating the
grading criteria, grading the pattern, and then sending this data to the production planner.
Production: Here the data created at the pattern grading stage is converted into a production pattern,
known as production lay planning and marker making. Using the software the pattern can be specifically
laid to create the best efficiency for cutting out, and lower costs especially related to material waste.
Plotting and cutting: Companies now utilize CAM systems to enable the accurate cutting out of garments
and production pieces. These systems also enable companies to review waste management in terms of
fabrics.
Product life cycle: Product lifecycle management (PLM) software that can be accessed on a global basis
is database software enabling companies to view all aspects of a product from design to finish. It is usually
integrated with PDM system software. This allows companies to monitor the styles to market, the workflow
and the sales, from design inception to completion.

12. What is toile? Describe different garments pattern making procedure.

Ans: A toile is a version of a sewing pattern that you make in order to check the size and fitting of the
garment before you cut into your final intended fabric for the project.
To create a simple pattern, a pattern maker would have to follow five essential steps.
i. Gathering the tools: Pencil, erasers, patterning paper, rulers etc.
ii. Taking careful Body Measurements: Patterns are either custom designed for individual client or
designed as general sizes for a larger consumer base
iii. Adding styles and designs: The original pattern draft is made according to customer's body
measurements and styles.
iv. Grading the Design: Grading is the process of readjusting basic paper patterns to fit different sizes
using the same original paper template.
v. Moving on to Draping: Draping refers to styling a customer with the cut out fabric based on your
drafted design.

13. List 25 trade name of fabrics used in apparel sector.

Ans: Different types of woven fabrics are vastly used in garments manufacturing, those are in the below:
i. Buckram fabric, xiii. Georgette fabric,
ii. Cambric fabric, xiv. Kashmir silk,
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 iii. Casement fabric, xv. Khadi fabric,
iv. Cheese fabric, xvi. Lawn fabric,
v. Chiffon fabric, xvii. Muslin fabric,
vi. Chintz fabric, xviii. Organdy fabric,
vii. Corduroy fabric, xix. Poplin fabric,
viii. Crepe fabric, xx. Sheeting fabric,
ix. Denim fabric, xxi. Taffeta fabric,
x. Drill fabric, xxii. Tissue fabric,
xi. Flannel fabric, xxiii. Mesh fabric,
xii. Gabardine fabric, xxiv. Velvet fabric.
Different types of knit fabrics, which are vastly used in apparel manufacturing, are mentioned in the
following:
i. Single jersey fabric, v. Interlock fabric,
ii. Double jersey fabric, vi. Piquet fabric,
iii. Burn out jersey fabric, vii. Lacoste fabric,
iv. Rib fabric, viii. Fleece fabric.

23
 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Marker Making

1. What is marker? What are the objects of marker making?

Ans: Marker is a large thin paper which contains all the required pieces of patterns of various sizes for a
particular style or design.
Objectives of Marker Making
i. Marker is essential for huge quantity of cutting.
ii. Fabric wastages are minimized by using marker.
iii. Marker Making Saves Time & Cost.
iv. Guide for the cutting of fabric.
v. Marker helps to maintain the required size & shape of garments.
vi. A huge number of pattern pieces of fabrics can be cut through marker.

2. Discuss the points that should be considered before marker making.

Ans: Points should be considered before marker making:
 Fabric width must be higher than marker width.
 Fabric length must be higher than marker length.
 When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of the fabrics the grain line must be parallel to the
warp direction in woven fabric & wales direction in knit fabrics. When pattern pieces are laid across
then the grain line should be parallel to the weft or course direction in both the fabrics.
 All the pattern pieces of fabrics must be in the same direction while laid down on an asymmetric
fabric.
 Length of cutting table must be considered.
 Plan for garments production should also be considered.

3. Describe the constraints of marker making.

Ans: The limitations for which marker maker cannot plan marker as desired are as-
i. Grain Line
ii. Design of Garments
iii. Nature of the Fabric
iv. Cutting Accuracy
v. Production Planning
The hinders or constraints of marker making are described here:
Grain Line: Grain line is a more effective constraint of marker making because of grain line sometimes it is
tough to place the pattern pieces onto the marker, even though it is possible the wastage becomes higher.
Design of Garments: Sometimes the designs and repeats of the fabric are regarded as constraints of
marker making. The patterns may miss the designs or may overlap the designs.
Nature of the Fabric: Nature of the fabric may sometimes be regarded as a constraint of marker making.
Nature of the fabric includes symmetric and asymmetric.
Cutting Accuracy: Accurate cutting may be one of the constraints of marker making.

24
During cutting the edge of cutting knife blade requires sufficient space so that it can be moved in desired
direction. So that the pattern pieces should be arranged with a little space among themselves. Otherwise, it
may reduce marker efficiency.
Pattern pieces for a particular order should be counted carefully to ensure that no parts have been missed
to be included as well as to ensure that no parts have been included twice unnecessarily.
Production Planning: Production planning includes rate of production, types of garments, sizes of garments,
etc.
Production Planning: Production planning includes rate of production, types of garments, sizes of
garments, etc.

4. What is marker efficiency? Describe the factors on which marker efficiency depends on.
Ans: It may be defined as the ratio of the total area of all the pattern pieces in the marker to the total area of
the marker plan. It is expressed in percentage (%).
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑎𝑟𝑒𝑎 𝑜𝑓 𝑎𝑙𝑙 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑝𝑎𝑡𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑛 𝑝𝑖𝑒𝑐𝑒𝑠 𝑖𝑛 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑚𝑎𝑟𝑘𝑒𝑟
Marker Efficiency = 𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑎𝑟𝑒𝑎 𝑜𝑓 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑚𝑎𝑟𝑘𝑒𝑟 𝑝𝑙𝑎𝑛
𝑥 100%

Factors that depends on Marker efficiency:

Marker planner: Marker efficiency is largely governed by the experience, honesty, sincerity and
technological knowledge of the marker planner. It also depends on the number of trials given for marker
making.
Marker length: If the marker length is higher, then efficiency will be higher. The length of the marker is
related with many factors but bigger marker length enhances more production in the cutting room.
Marker width: It has been found from experiment that if the marker width is more, then efficiency will be
more because patterns can be placed in the marker easily. But for tubular fabric, the above statement may
not be correct.
Marker making method: Efficiency will be higher for computerized method that obtained in manual
method. But if the marker maker is highly experienced, then manual method may enhance more efficiency.
Size of garments: If more sizes of garments can be included e.g. S, M, L, XL, XXL for a particular style in
the marker, then more will be the efficiency.
Style of garments: The more large patterns and less small patterns for a particular style of garments
reduce efficiency and vice versa.
Pattern engineering: Marker efficiency can also be increased by changing or alternating the patterns’
position in the marker.
Fabric characteristics: Efficiency will be higher for symmetrical fabric. But if the fabric is asymmetric then
the marker efficiency will be less. If the fabric is cheeked or stripped then marker efficiency will be obtained
less.

5. How can we increase marker efficiency? Explain.

Ans: The higher the marker efficiency the lower the fabric wastage makes the definite number of garments
for a particular design. The half of cost to make garment is paid for its fabric. So it 1% of marker increased
results increase in profits for this reasons. The increment of marker efficiency is so much important.
The factors are:
1. Marker planer
25
2. Size of garments
3. Marker length
4. Pattern engineering
5. Fabric characteristics
6. Method of marker making
7. Marker width
8. Style of garment.

6. What are reasons for fabric losses outside & inside of marker?
Ans: The maximum usage of the fabric is directly related to the marker efficiency. In spite of this few
amount of fabric wastage occurs which is out of control of marker planning. The fabric wastage outside the
marker is discussed below:
Ends of Ply Losses: Some allowances are needed the end of each pieces of fabric during spreading.
Usually 2cm. in each end and on each ply 4 cm. wastage happened. This wastage varies with the fabric
type and their durability. For this the wastage can be reduced by controlling carefully the allowance of the
marker according to the fabric type. But this loss is less if marker length is higher and vice-versa.
Loss of Fabric in Roll: Fabrics usually come in roll form in garments industries. There are the limitations of
fabric length in each roll. Fabric spreading is done according to the marker length. Most of the time it is
seen that fabrics are not exact to the multiple lays. For this reason at the end of the roll few amount of
fabrics are always wasted as remnant which is cut. We can do splicing & the remaining portion should be
reused to save fabric.
Selvedge Loss: Each fabric has two selvedges which are avoided during placing marker on the fabric.
Thus approximately 3% fabrics are wastage along width. This loss is less for higher fabric width. If the
fabric is dimensionally stable, we can save some fabric by wasting 2% along width. Less fabric loss for
higher fabric width.
Purchase Loss: Fabric length is identified by fabric manufacturers and suppliers. Sometimes loss fabric is
wound than the exact amount in the roll. So before purchasing the length should be measured. To get
exact length, the fabric should be sourced only from reputed manufactures and suppliers.

7. Mention the methods of drawing and duplicating marker.

Ans: Methods which a marker can be draw:
i. Marking directly on the fabric:
 Drawing by Chalk or pencil: mark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay or wax not allow copying
least accurate method. Not applicable method for pile or woolen fabric.
 Paint Spray: fine jets of paint are sprayed over the patterns that have been laid on the fabric,
leaving an outline of the patterns when they are removed More fabric is required to allow gaps for
paint. Paint can migrate under the pattern edges, pattern sizes grow as layers of paint build up. The
machine must be cleaned every day.
ii. Marking on the paper: pattern pieces are precisely arranged on to the marker paper and draw the
outline of the patterns by using pencil. This method is widely used in the industry.
iii. Computerized Drawing: Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated on screen to produce a
marker the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen and the range of the pattern pieces
are shown on top.

26
 iv. Photographic System: patterns pieces are set onto a light sensitive paper passing through ultra-
violet light and revealed by using ammonia vapor. This method is quick and clean.
Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
Carbon duplicating: Carbon paper in between two marker paper
i. Suitable to copy 3-4 pieces
ii. This duplication method has fairly low capital and material costs
iii. Dirty , poor impression in the lower layer
iv. Spreading and rolling of carbon paper is difficult, labor intensive process
Spirit duplicating: Working procedure is same as office duplicating machine/Xerox machine.
i. Only significant difference is that the size of the machine
ii. Suitable for copying 40-50 pieces
iii. Not suitable for higher marker width
iv. May produce defective copy if master copy set on the machine improperly.
Photographic method: With the photographic method, the original marker is set onto a light sensitive
paper using ultra-violet light and revealed by using ammonia vapor. This method is quick and clean and
produces unlimited numbers of duplications.

8. Possibilities / Methods / Techniques of Marker Making.

Ans: Generally there are two methods by which a marker can be made.
Manual Method: The man performs it by himself using hands. If is a conventional system that requires
more time.
i. Full size marker: Full size marker is made for production purpose.
ii. Miniature type marker: Miniature type marker is sometime made and its purposes are to plan or
schedule and learn or study i.e. for planning and learning purposes.
Features of Manual Marker Making
i. Time consuming and require a great deal of space.
ii. Errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variation, poor line definition, placement and
alignment of pieces and slip of the pieces.
iii. Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the individual who laid out the marker
and traced it
Computerized Method: This is the best method as it gives higher marker efficiency. In this method, the
pattern size, pattern pieces, grade rule, screening are fed to the computer and set in the memory which
produces maker automatically. This method normally is a part of an integrated system which includes:
i. Digitizing system: In this system, the working patterns are placed on to the digitizing board/table,
then clicking according to the pattern dimensions.
ii. Scanning system: Scanner is one kind of machine like photo copier. The working patterns are
placed on to the glass of the scanner and then marker is made for a selected size.
Features of Computerized Method:
i. Very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation and marker efficiency.
ii. Production patterns may be developed on the computer.
iii. Parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from cutting orders -style numbers, size
distribution and fabric width.
iv. Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensure the grain alignment and prevent
overlapping of pieces.
27
 v. Automatic marker making may be used to determine yardage requirements and fabric costs for
designs prior to line adoption.
There are two types of computerized technique:
 Automatic marker making: It involves calling up data defining the placement of pieces in marker
previously planned and selecting from a series.
 Interactive marker making: It is a common process in that the operator plans marker by interacting
directly with the system through a computer screen. All the pattern pieces are displayed in miniature
at the top of the screen.

9. Illustrate the automatic marker making process.

Ans: Working principle of Automatic Marker Making process:
i. In this process computer itself produces marker form different pattern pieces.
ii. In the automatic marker making system, the computer makes the marker itself according to the
command given to computer.
iii. In this process, higher marker efficiency can be achieved but it is a time-consuming method,
because computer use permutation – combination method to produce marker.
iv. The modern systems however overcome this problem of time and now a days it is possible to get
automatic marker only in 2 minutes with a satisfactory level of marker efficiency.

10. Write down the interactive marker making method.

Ans: Working method of interactive marker making:
i. It is a common process, here the marker planner plan markers by interacting directly with the
system through a computer screen.
ii. Two horizontal lines are shown in middle of the screen which indicates the marker width.
iii. A vertical line in the left indicates the start of the marker and right side is open at first.
iv. All the pattern pieces are displayed in the miniature form at the top of the screen.
v. They are dragged & dropped in the marker area.
vi. After placing of all pattern pieces, it is possible to see the data like marker efficiency, marker length,
and marker width etc. information just below the parallel lines.
vii. After completion of marker making, it is saved in the computer memory & it is possible to take the
printout of the marker any time.

11. Differentiate between the manual and computerized marker making techniques.

Manual method Computerized method

Suitable for small amount of production. Used for large scale of production.
Marker efficiency is lower. Higher.
Initial investment is not high. Higher
It is usually a slower method. Quicker method
Production cost is high. Low
Fabric wastage is high. Low
Can not be copied as and when wish. Can be copied as and when desired.

12. Difference between automatic and interactive marker making.

Ans:
28
 Automatic Interactive
Most efficient marker is obtained. Comparatively less efficient.
More time is required. Comparatively less time is required.
Computer makes marker by previously planned Operator makes marker with the help of computer.
data.
Smaller sized patterns are displayed on the All the pattern pieces are displayed in miniature at
computer screen and full size patterns are stored in the top of the screen.
the computer memory.
Grading rule is applied. Not applicable.

State the function of CAD and explain the automatic marker making process.
State the importance of marker making. Describe the reasons for lower marker efficiency.

29
 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Fabric Spreading

1. What is fabric spreading? Discuss different types of fabric spreading.

Ans: Fabric spreading is a method where piles of fabric are spread in a specific length and width according
to the garment marker measurement. This is preparatory operation for cutting of the fabric.
There are two types of spreading:
i. Flat Spreading: Fabric is normally spread in multiples of the ratio of the marker. In this type of
spread, all plies are of the same length.
ii. Stepped Spreading: In this method, the spread is normally built like small steps, with all the fabric
plies in a step having the same length. It is commonly used when the order needs to cut the
imbalance between the quantities to be cut, which prevents the use of the flat spread.

2. Mention the objects of fabric spreading.

Ans: Objects of fabric spreading:
i. To Place the fabric to the length direction of the marker plan aligned with the length & width &
without any tension.
ii. To reduce the time of garments manufacturing.
iii. To reduce the cutting time for per piece of garments by cutting many pieces of garments at a time.
iv. To reduce the wastage of fabric by using multi garments marker plan & cutting at a time.
v. To make every ply plain and flat.
vi. To reduce manufacturing cost.

3. Describe types of fabric lays during fabric spreading.

Ans: Types of fabric Lays :
According to the construction:
i. Straight Lay: Every ply is placed according to the marker length. It is most common and most of the
garments are used this type of lay.
ii. Stepped Lay: In this type of lay, each ply of the fabric is not spread in full length that means they
arranged in steps. Different type of marker is required for stepped lay. Fabric wastage is high, it is
rarely used.
According to the direction of spreading:
i. All face up/down: This type of lay is suitable for open and wide fabric. The face side of each ply of
the fabric is paced either on the top side or on the bottom side. But the fabric spreading direction is
always in the same direction. After spreading of each ply, the fabric end is cut and again the fabric
is spread from the same end.
ii. Face to Face: This type of lay is suitable for wide and open fabric. The front side of the ply of the
fabric is placed face to face in pairs and for making the lay, the fabric roll is required to be turned
after completion.
iii. Zig-Zag Lay: For making this type of lay, fabric spreading starts from one end as per the marker
length and reach the other end and without cutting the fabric end, it is kept hold and the fabric
spreading runs continuing. This way zig zag lay is done. Zig-zag lay is widely used in garments
industry but for Asymmetric fabrics this type of lay may create problem.
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 4. Briefly discuss the requirements of fabric spreading/ Describe the factors affecting the fabric
spreading.
Ans: Requirements of fabric spreading:
Alignment Of Fabric Plies: Fabric plies should be aligned according to the marker length and marker
width.
Correct Ply Tension: To prepare the lay of the fabric, during fabric spreading its base condition to maintain
the correct ply tension.
Correct Ply Direction: During fabric spreading it is very important to detect what type of fabric it is and
spread the fabric with correct ply direction.
Fabric Must Be Flat: The fabric laid on the table should be flat otherwise there will be ridges in it.
Elimination Of Fabric Faults: The fold of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary steps
should be taken to remove these faults. It is the duty of the operator.
Elimination Of Static Electricity: In fabric spreading static charge may produced due to friction specially
the fabric containing the man-made fiber like polyester, nylon etc.
Elimination Of Fusion Of Plies: In case of thermoplastic fibre fabrics may fuse together during cutting if
the cutting knife becomes hot. We can prevent fabric from fusion by –
 Using anti-fusion paper
 Using silicon lubricants on the knife blade.
 Reducing ply height.
Avoidance Of Distortion In Spread: There should not be friction between the bottom of the spread and
the surface of the table. So a layer of hard polyethylene sheet is laid at the bottom of the spread.
Matching Checks and Stripes: During fabric spreading it should be carefully noticed that checked and
stripe should be matched otherwise garments may be fault.

5. What is fabric package? Narrate different types of fabric package briefly.

Ans: The option of fabric packages to be delivered to a cutting department depends on the characteristics
of fabric and the spreading method employed. The most commonly used types of fabric packages are given
below:
Open fabric – rolled: The majority of fabrics are supplied in a rolled form as a single layer wound directly
onto a tubular cardboard about 7–8 cm in diameter. The width of the open fabric may vary from less than
75 cm to over 3 m, particularly in case of knitted fabrics.
Tubular knitted fabric – rolled and plaited: This kind of form is utilized for the manufacture of garments
like underwear, sports shirts and t-shirts. Plaiting, which is presenting the fabric in width-wise folds,
facilitates preventing tension in the fabric.
Folded fabric – rolled and plaited: This is common for woolen and woolen mixture fabrics used in tailored
garments. The fabric is rolled onto a flat board and the width of the fabric varies from about 70–80cm
folded.
Plaited folded fabric: This is used more commonly for checks and a few tubular knitted fabrics to avoid the
distortions due to tight rolling.
Velvet – hanging: More rarely, velvets may be delivered wound on specially constructed frames to prevent
the pile from becoming crushed.

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 6. Briefly discuss on semi automatic fabric spreading machine.
Ans: Advantage of Semi-Automatic Spreading Method:
i. Auto ply cutting device here.
ii. Auto plies counting arrangements.
iii. Auto fabric tensioning device.
iv. Auto fabric leveling device,
v. Photoelectric guide for selvage alignment.
vi. Fabric fault detector.
vii. The maximum weight of the fabric roll can be 80kg to 675kg.
viii. The maximum height of the spread is 25cm.
ix. Maximum spread speed 100m/min.
x. It has also rolled turning arrangement.
xi. Auto loading and unloading device.
xii. It is very useful.
The disadvantage of the Semi-Automatic Spreading Method:
i. More time is required here.
ii. It has needed higher labor costs.
iii. It cannot be possible to make the desired fabric spread technique by using this method.
iv. There is no sensor in the spread head.
v. Any kind of fabric cannot be spread here.

7. Briefly discuss on automatic fabric spreading machine.

Ans: This type of fabric spreading machine is an improvement of the semi-automatic spreading machine.
There are a lot of advantages to this machine to make fabric lay. Because this spreading machine is
operated by controlling with the help of a microprocessor and robot.
Features of Automatic Spreading Machine:
 Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls
 Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay
 Automatic leveling device for edge alignment.
 Automatic cutting device at the end of a run
 Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension
 Automatic lay height sensor
 Programmable lay length, ply height
 Spreading speed up to 140 m/min

8. State the advantages and disadvantages of automatic fabric spreading system.

Ans: Advantages of Automatic Spreading Machine:
i. Here m/c can be set before the expected amount of plies spreading.
ii. After completing, fabric spreading will stop automatically and give a signal.
iii. By using robotic system, it will automatically come to the end of table and set another roll in the
spreading head when spreading of each roll is finished.
iv. It is automatically spliced and starts new fabric spreading where the last fabric roll has finished.
v. There is a spreading head so that any types of fault are identified by using this sensor and also the
spreading head is stopped and the defective fabric is cut by itself.
vi. Any kinds of fabric can be spread by using this machine and any kinds of lay can be made.
vii. Less time is needed here for fabric spreading.

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viii. Also it needs less labor cost.
Disadvantages:
i. It is very expensive, so that capital investment is high.
ii. Skillful operator is needed to operate this types of machine .

9. What is splies? Types of splies.

Ans: If any fault is found in fabric during spreading, it is cut out to fabric width. Then fabric spreading is
again started by overlapping of new end on cut end of fabric as possibly. The splice position is identified to
the marker. This overlapping is Splice.
Types of Splice:
i. Straight line splice
ii. Interlock splice.
Straight line splice: The splice is identified with a straight line to the depth spreading table. Fabric
spreading is again started 2" fabric more both side of splice line.
Interlock splice: The sign of this splice is understood by two straight lines which are cross-line. This splice
mark is at first identified by chalk on spreading table. Interlock splice mark means that two ends patterns
are in interlock to width in that mark. In this splice, fabric spreading is started by overlapping if 2" in both
sides of interlock splice mark.

33
 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name: Fabric Cutting

1. Define fabric cutting. Mention the objects of fabric cutting.

Ans: Cutting means cutting out the pieces of the garment from lays of the fabric with the help of a cutting
template or marker.
Objectives of Fabric Cutting:
i. The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts and replicas of pattern pieces in the marker plan.
ii. By accurate cutting we can minimize the fabric wastage.
iii. Without fabric cutting it is impossible to get uniform finished fabric.
iv. To prepare the pattern pieces for proper sewing.

2. Describe different method of fabric cutting.

Ans: In the garments industry, there are two available cutting methods, are-
i. Manual Method,
ii. Computerized Method.
Manual Method: In this process, the power knives are manually operated. This process is mostly used in
the maximum garment industry. The following cutting machines are used:
i. Round knife,
ii. Band Knife,
iii. Straight Knife,
iv. Scissor,
v. Die-cutting,
vi. Drill.
Computerized Method: This is the latest technique. This technique is used in the modern and large
garment industry. The following cutting machines are used:
i. Straight knife cutting,
ii. Water jet cutting,
iii. Laser beam cutting,
iv. Plasma torch cutting.

3. Illustrate the requirement factors during fabric cutting.

Ans: To cut the pieces of garments from fabric lay accurately, following requirements should be fulfilled.
Precision of cut: Precision of cut means cutting parts’ shape and size must be as per original sketch. It
depends upon some factors-
i. Methods of cutting employed.
ii. Marker planning- distance between two pattern pieces.
iii. Marker marking- correct marking by pen/pencil.
iv. Condition of cutting equipment- machine, blade etc.
v. Skill and motivation of the operator.

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Clean Edge: After cutting of the fabric, the end of the fabric should be clean and fair. The raw edge of the
fabric should not show any fraying or snagging.
Unfused edge: During the cutting of the parts of the garments from the fabric lay through the mechanical
way, the friction of the cutting knife with the fabric creates heat. The amount of heat caused by friction is
sometimes so high that the fabric along the cutting end may melt, specially in the fabrics where the amount
of thermoplastic fiber is high. If the fabric is fused, the cutting ends may join with one another. As a result, it
becomes very much difficult to separate them and even if they are separated, yarns come out along the
cutting ends.
Remedies:
i. By reducing the height of the lay.
ii. Sharpening the knife properly,
iii. Using silicon lubricating agents during cutting,
iv. Using anti fusing paper,
v. Reducing the speed of cutting.
vi. By using blade with a wavy edge.
Support of the Lay: The surface of the cutting table needs to be able to support the weight of the fabrics
lay. During cutting of the fabric it is to be ensured that the bottom most ply of the fabric is cut at the same
time during the cutting of the fabric.
Consistent cutting: The main fact is to cut the fabric in consistent way. Specially, the shape of cutting
parts must be same from top to bottom of fabric plies. It may be inconsistent in cutting due to mechanical
method. The inconsistency in cutting may arise due to-
i. Knife deflection
ii. Wrong knife setting
iii. Toppling or leaning
iv. Poor skill of the operator
The following steps can be used to minimize the problem-
i. Lay height can be reduced to avoid blade deflection.
ii. Knife setting must be at right angle to the base.
iii. Need skilled operator.

4. What are the causes and remedies of fabric fusion? State the causes and remedies of fabric fusion
during cutting.
Ans: During fabric cutting, when the parts of fabric are cut from the fabric lay, there is generated friction
between the fabric and cutting knife. As a result heat is generated in the cutting knife. Sometimes it’s seen
that, due to excessive heat generation by friction may cause burn of the edge of cutting fabric. It affects
deeply in case of thermo-plastic fiber.
Remedies of fabric fusion:
i. By reducing the height of the lay.
ii. Sharpening the knife properly,
iii. Using silicon lubricating agents during cutting,
iv. Using anti fusing paper,
v. Reducing the speed of cutting.
vi. By using blade with a wavy edge.

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 5. Draw a sketch and describe different parts of straight knife cutting machine. Write the features and
advantages of a straight knife cutting machine.
Ans: Straight knife cutting machine is used to cut components of differing size. This is the most frequently
used equipment for cutting garments in bulk. This machine is called straight knife cutting machine because
its cutter is straight in shape.
Different Parts of Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Upper Handle: This is an handle to hold and carry the machine.
Electrical Cable: An electrical cable supplies the motor with electricity
Motor: Knife cuts the fabric very fast due to high speed of motor. That
increases the risk of fabric damage.
Side Handle: This handle is to hold the machine as well to move in predefined
direction.
Stand: This is a metal body where all the parts are attached.
Straight Knife: The main functional part of the machine is a vertically oscillating
straight knife with a sharp blade.
Base Plate: A base plate with the lowest possible profile is needed to ensure
the stability of the machine.
Safety devices: A presser foot is used to compress the fabric plies and helps to protect operator’s hands
from accidental cuts. A machine may be also equipped with an auto-stop trigger that switches the power off
when the operator’s hand is removed from the lever.
Features of Straight Knife Cutting machine:
i. The main parts of this machine are straight knife, electric motor, handle, grinder, base plate, stand/
knife holder, lubricating unit, wheel etc.
ii. Could be used to cut higher depth of fabric.
iii. Knife height is 10 cm to 33 cm.
iv. Knife stroke is 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm.
v. Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000.
vi. Auto grinder is used.
vii. Auto lubricating unit works for this machine.
viii. A Handle for the cutter to direct the Knife.
ix. Knife guard is attached to the front of the knife.
x. Machine weight is around 12-15 kg.
xi. Knife cut the fabric very fast due to high speed of motor. That increases the risk of fabric damage.
Working Principle of Straight Knife Cutter Machine:
i. At first, fabric spread on the cutting table.
ii. Then, marker is placed on the fabric.
iii. After that, cutting machine is placed at any corner point of fabric.
iv. Then, switch on the machine and continue cutting as per marker dimension.
v. Finally, the cutting is continue until finish the marker.
Advantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
i. Productivity is high.
ii. Automatic grinding.
iii. Automatically lubrication.
iv. Comparatively cheap.
v. Can be moved easily by wheel.
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vi. Suitable for straight line and curve line.
vii. Fabric can be cut from any angle.
Disadvantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
i. High speed of the machine causes high risk of damage.
ii. Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.
iii. Motor weight creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces.
iv. Risk is high for physical damage of operator.
v. Knife required to replace.

6. Differentiate between straight knife and hand knife cutting machine.

Ans: Difference between straight knife and hand knife cutting machine:
Straight Knife Hand/Round Knife
Automatic grinding. A manual grinder is used here.
Reciprocates up and down. No option for reciprocation.
Corners and curves can be cut accurately. Suitable only for cutting in straight lines.
Most versatile and commonly used. Not popular as like straight knife.
It has a vertical blade. It cannot be moved easily by a wheel.
Comparatively cheap. Comparatively higher cost than a straight knife.
Automatically lubrication. Lubrication is manually done.
Fabric can be cut from any angle. Can be cut high curve line around the knife.
A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the Low productivity since few numbers of layers can
machine due to the high length of the knife & be cut.
R.P.M of the motor.
Motor R.P.M is 3000 to 4000. Motor R.P.M is 800 to 1600.
In this machine, the machine is movable but the The machine is stationary and the fabric is
fabric is fixed. movable.

7. Describe the features, advantages and disadvantages of band knife cutter.

Ans: Band knife cutting machine is an endless and looks like a loop. Band knife cutting m/c is one of the
important cutting instruments which are vastly used in the garment manufacturing sector. It should be noted
here that, band knife cutting m/c is used for cutting the fabric rolls without cardboard inner tube. Here, the
cutting machine has done its job automatically according to the height of the relevant material. This article
has presented some key advantages and disadvantages of band knife cutting machines in the apparel
industry.
Features of Band Knife Cutting Machine:
i. This is like a saw mill cutter.
ii. There are three or more pulleys which provide the continuous rotating motion of the knife .
iii. An endless knife is used here.
iv. A large size of table is used to support the fabric & for cutting.
v. Air blower blows the air to minimize the weight of fabric.
vi. Balls in air blower help to move the fabric in different direction.
vii. Automatic grinder is used.
viii. In this method machine is stationary but fabric is movable.
ix. High speed r.p.m. motor is used.
x. Required a large space for it.
Advantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:

37
 i. Suitable for any types of line.
ii. Very large productivity for limited product. Such as collars, cuff, placket etc.
iii. Automatic grinder grind the knife instantly.
iv. Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight.
v. Possible to cut 90o angle of the lay.
vi. Risk of accident is low.
Disadvantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:
i. Not suitable for large component due to the length of the table.
ii. Work load is higher.
iii. Machine is stationary & fabric is movable.
iv. Running cost is higher.
v. Fabric wastage is higher here.
vi. Required fix space.
vii. Not possible to cut fabric directly.

8. Describe the computerized knife cutting machine. Explain the working principle of computerized
knife cutter machine.
Ans: In this machine, cutting knife movement is controlled by a computer. On the cutting table there are two
rails on two sides, running length direction of the cutting table. A cross beam moves length direction of the
cutting table, situated on the rails. The cutting head is situated on the cross beam and moves on the cross
beam but the movement is in width direction of the cutting table. The cutting knife is situated inside the
cutting head. Due to the combined movement of the cross beam, cutting head, and cutting knife, fabric
cutting is done at any line, angle, and point very accurately. The combined movement is controlled by three
servo motors.
When fabric cutting command is given through computer, the cutting knife starts lay cutting from a
reference point starting in the computer memory of the marker. Notch point is made by the same cutting
knife. Drill mark is also produced by a separate drill situated in the cutting head. Speed of cutting depends
on lay height. For example, for a compressed lay of 7.5 cm height, cutting speed will be 7.5 meter per
minute. As the cutting proceeds, the vacuum pressure may drop into the lay. To avoid the reduced vacuum
pressure problem, another polythene sheet roll may be used to cover the cut portion of the lay.
Computerized straight knife cutting machine does not require any use of marker.
Advantages of computer controlled cutting machine:
i. Very fast fabric cutting;
ii. Very accurate cutting;
iii. Cutting speed could be varied;
iv. Cutting knife could be rotated and moved at any angle;
v. Suitable for large scale production;
vi. Cutting defect is negligible;
vii. No possibility of blade deflection;
viii. Blade sharpening is attached;
ix. Possibility of accident is lower;
x. No need of marker;
xi. Lower labor cost;
xii. 6 to 8 times faster cutting.
Disadvantages:
i. Initial investment cost is very high;
ii. Maintenance cost is also very high;
iii. Skilled operator is needed.

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 9. Discuss about the computer controlled laser cutting machine.
Ans: In laser cutting machine, the fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot by using a laser. Laser
cutting processing depends on its precise processing, faster, simple operation, high degree of automation
has been widely used in the leather and apparel industry. The cutting head is controlled by a computer.
The CNC fabric laser cutter includes different components
i. Gas cylinders
ii. Machine table
iii. Laser source
iv. Laser cutting head
v. Cooling system
vi. Beam delivery components
vii. Control system
viii. Dresser
ix. Dust remover
x. Air-cooled dryer filter
Features of Laser Cutting Machine:
i. Increased precision and accuracy, clean, smooth edges, and the ability to cut a wide variety of
materials.
ii. Cut a variety of materials using a high powered laser beam that is controlled by CNC software that
determines cutting parameters.
iii. Delivers fast and extremely accurate processing.
Advantages of Laser Cutting Machine:
i. Supports All Materials.
ii. Smooth Edges.
iii. Extreme Precision
iv. Automated
v. Energy Efficient.
Disadvantages of Laser Cutting Machine:
i. Requires a massive amount of money to maintain.
ii. It can also produce harmful gases when melting plastics.

10. Short note on water knife cutting.

Ans: A water jet cutter is an industrial tool for cutting fabric lay by using a very high-pressure jet of water.
Water Jet Cutting Machines take cutting to the next level. A very fine water-jet is passed through a nozzle
at a very high speed to cut the fabric lay. Water pressure used in 60,000 psi and used to cut fabric, lather,
and plastic materials.
Features of Water Jet Cutting Machine:
i. In water jet cutter, water is used to cut fabric which is controlled by computer.
ii. Special software is used to cut fabric.
iii. A very high velocity and small diameter steam of water is created by a water jet pump.
iv. The high pressure jet acts as a solid tool and sharp knife which can easily cut the fabrics, lathers
and plastic materials.
v. The jet of water and loose fibers normally caught and drains away by a catcher when cut the fabric.
It is in the bottom of the fabric lays and moves with the same speed and the same direction of water
jet.
vi. To improve the cutting speed, it is needed to adjust the pressure and radius of the jet.
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Advantages of Water Jet Cutting Machine:
i. Sound of cutting is less.
ii. Excess heat is not produce.
iii. Higher cutting speed.
iv. Cutting by water nozzle
v. No need of sharpening / grinding.
vi. The table is not cut as catcher is used.
vii. Suitable for comparatively harder materials cutting.
viii. Most effective to cut hard materials such as leather and plastic.
Disadvantages of Water Jet Cutting Machine:
i. There is a danger of wet edges.
ii. Water spot may occur on fabric.
iii. High costly.
iv. Hard water causes rusting. So water must be filtered and de-ionized before use.
v. As in the lower lay, water jet spreads out and then cut is wider and rough at the bottom of the
spread.
vi. Not suitable for high lay of fabric.

11. State the function of scissor.

Ans: There are different types of scissors.
i. Tailors Scissors: To cut fabrics with ease and precision.
ii. Dressmakers Scissors: The dressmaker scissors are specially made for crafting dresses and
clothes.
iii. Applique Scissors: For applique work or for small detailing around the main stitching.
iv. Buttonhole Scissors: To cut holes for buttons. The tool gives the full control to make perfect holes
without making them too large or too small.
v. Embroidery Scissors: To create the perfect finishing for small embroideries.

Briefly discuss on quality control in cutting.

Explain the conditions of fusing.

40
 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Interlining and Lining

1. Define Interlining and Lining.

Ans: Interlining is a special type of knit, woven or non-woven fabric which used between two layer of a
fabric to provide strength, dimension and comfort.
Lining is a piece of fabric which is used to cover the inner surface of garments. Different kinds of lining are
used in the garments manufacturing process such as jacket, coat, overcoat, trouser, etc.

2. Mention the function of interlining.

Ans: Functions of Interlining:
i. To support the garment.
ii. To control the shape of the garment.
iii. To control the area of the apparel.
iv. To reinforce the components of the garment.
v. To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.
vi. To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the fabric.
vii. To improve garment performance.

3. Describe different types of interlining.

Ans: There are mainly two types of interlining are as follows:
i. Sewn interlining or non-fusible interlining.
ii. Fusible interlining.
Non-fusible Interlining: The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics directly by sewing
without heat and pressure is called non-fuse interlining. This type of interlining is also called sewn
interlining or non-fusible interlining. For the preparation of sewn interlining a piece of fabric is treated with
starch and allowed to dry and finally sewn with main fabric.
Advantages of Non-fusible Interlining:
i. To make flame retardant garments.
ii. Simple and easy technique.
iii. No elaborate machine is required.
iv. Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly heated industry.
Disadvantages of Non-fusible Interlining:
i. Quality is not good.
ii. Not suitable for large production.
iii. Not available in market.
iv. More time required.
v. High work load & labor cost.
Fusible Interlining: It is the most used interlining. The interlining which is used between two layers of
fabrics by applying heat and pressure for a certain time is called Fusible Interlining. Fusible interlining is
used for all kinds of apparel. Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and “Bespoke garment”.

41
Advantages of Fusible Interlining:
i. To get similarities among the apparel. Interlining gives the same outlook of the apparel.
ii. Fusible interlining is available in the market.
iii. Application process is very easy.
iv. It has high productivity.
v. Fusing time is less.
vi. It is cheap.
vii. Performance is very good.
Disadvantages of Fusible Interlining:
i. High temperature is required.
ii. Special care is needed during attaching interlining.

4. Write down the different classification of fusible interlining.

Ans: On the basis of resin coating and its properties fusible interlining can be classified as follows:
i. Polyethylene coated interlining
ii. Polyamide coated interlining
iii. PVC coated interlining
iv. Polyester coated interlining
v. Polypropylene coated interlining
vi. PVA coated interlining

5. Differentiate between Fusing and Non-fusing Interlining.

Ans: Difference between Fusing and Non-fusing Interlining:

6. Explain the conditions of fusing.

Ans: Fusing should be perfect:
i. with no damage to the fabric,
ii. without deformation,
iii. with sufficient bond strength,
iv. also in day-to-day practice,
v. also in foreign production,
vi. Productive and cost effective.

7. Discuss the factors affecting the quality of fusing process.

Ans: To control the quality of fusing, selection of interlining and conditions of fusing are very important. The
factors affecting the quality of fusing are discussed below:
Fusing temperature: Optimum fusing temperature is recommended by the interlining supplier. During
fusing, if this temperature is not maintained properly then the fusing performance may degrade. Over
temperature will produce strike through or strike back and under temperature will produce insufficient bond
strength. The fusing machine showing fusing temperature needs to be checked time to time. To check the
fusing temperature, Pyrometer or Thermo paper may be used.
42
Fusing pressure: Fusing pressure is to be maintained as per recommendation. If recommended pressure
is not maintained then strike through, strike back or insufficient bond strength may result. Hence fusing
pressure shown in the dial of the machine needs to be checked time to time. To check the fusing pressure
paper strip and pressure pill may be used.
Fusing time: Fusing time showing in the machine is to be checked time to time with the aid of a stop
watch.
Pilling strength: The bonding strength of fused components is to be checked by a tensile strength tester
and compared with the recommended pilling strength.

8. Explain Striking Back and Striking Through.

Ans: There are mainly two types of faults found during fusing. Those are explained in the below:
Striking back: When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have the
control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly
during fusing so that the resin is passed through the lower part of fabric. It is called striking back.
Striking through: When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it must have
the control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly
during fusing so that the resin is passed through the upper part of fabric. It is called striking through.

9. Briefly discuss continuous fusible interlining machine.

Ans: Machines used in fusing:
i. Hand iron
ii. Flat-bed fusing press
iii. Continuous fusing press
iv. High frequency fusing machine Hand
A continuous fusing machine is normally used for attaching the interlining with the fabrics. It is one of the
important equipment which is significantly used in the garments manufacturing industry.
Features of Continuous Fusing Press Machine:
i. The machine consists of a fusing chamber with continuous belt.
ii. The heating chamber is controlled by a switch.
iii. Two pressure rollers are used in the fusing chamber.
Working Principle of Continuous Fusing Machine:
i. In this machine, interlining is placed between two layers of the fabric and passed to the fusing
chamber.
ii. Then the required heat and pressures are applied in the fusing chamber
iii. Direct heating or indirect heating are applied for heating the interlining.
iv. After heating, required pressure are applied by two pressure rollers.
v. Then the fabric is taken out from the fusing chamber.
Advantages of Continuous Fusing Press:
i. Mostly used in country.
ii. Higher production.
iii. Good quality fusing.
iv. Very suitable for pile fabric using.
v. No possibility of fabric shrinkage.

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Disadvantages:
i. High cost.
ii. Large space required.
iii. Different bond strength of fused parts.

10. State scatter, perforated & paste resin applying tape to base cloth./ Resin Coating for fusible
interlining.
Ans: In this system, the base component fabric is coated on one side with a thermoplastic resin, which is
then bonded to another fabric by means of application of heat and pressure
Scatter coating:
i. Resin is sprayed on the base fabric by a spray head.
ii. Then temperature and pressure are used to fix the resin on the base fabric.
iii. This type of interlining is cheaper than others.
iv. The molecular size of the resin varies between 150 to 400 microns.
Dry–dot–coating:
i. Powder of resin is applied on the base fabric in dot form by a roller.
ii. Then the base fabric is passed through an oven, where due to temperature the resin melts and due
to pressure of roller the resin sticks on the base fabric.
iii. The number of dots per cm maybe 3 to 12.
iv. The size of resin particles vary from 80 to 200 microns.
v. For fine fabric finer dots and for coarser fabric larger dots are used.
Paste interlining:
i. Resin powder is converted into a paste by the use of chemicals and water.
ii. Then the paste is printed on the base fabric.
iii. Then by applying temperature water and chemicals are evaporated from the base fabric.
iv. Very fine dots are produced by printing technique with resin size 1 to 80 microns.
Film coating:
i. Polymer resin is first melted by the use of temperature and then applied on the base fabric.
ii. Very fine film on one side of the fabric.
iii. Polyethylene as a resin is used for film coating.
iv. Less flexible than others.
Emulsion coating:
i. Resin is made as emulsion form with the use of chemicals and water.
ii. Then through this emulsion base fabric is passed which picks up the emulsion.
iii. Then the fabric is passed through an oven where the interlining is dried.
iv. This type of interlining is very hard after fusing.
Preformed:
i. The resin is heat processed to form a net which is then bonded onto the substrate by heat and
pressure.
ii. This method is also used to produce paper-backed tapes, which are used for fastening hems and
facings instead of blind stitching or felling.

44
 11. State fastening materials? Mention the names of fastening materials used in apparel.
Ans: Fastenings are the ‘elements’ used to fasten garments so that they stay closed.
There are many types of clothing fasteners and within each category:
i. Button vi. Laces
ii. Buckle vii. Pin
iii. Grommets viii. Safety pins
iv. Hook and Loop ix. Magnets
v. Zipper x. Frog closure
xi. Fabric ties xvi. Press stud
xii. Eyelet xvii. Studs
xiii. Brooches xviii. Snap fasteners
xiv. Clasps xix. Toggles
xv. Poppers

12. Illustrate a close end zipper with a suitable sketch.

Ans: Zippers are always measured from “component to component” (end stops),
regardless of zipper style.
Closed-end zippers: Closed-end zippers are non-separating and are normally
opened and closed with a slider. The bottom stop is made up of a single part and
doesn’t allow complete separation of the chain. These zippers are used on
trousers, jeans, bags, boots, etc.
Open-end (separating) zippers: Open-end zippers have separated ends. The
ending part is joined by a box and pin mechanism provided on the lower end of the
zipper. The zippers are closed using sliders and are normally used on jackets and
other outerwear.

13. Mention objects of lining.

Ans: Objects of Lining
i. To maintain the shape of garments.
ii. To improve hang and comfort by allowing it to slide over other garments.
iii. To add insulation.
iv. To cover the inside of a garment of complicated construction to make it neat.
v. They are selected to match the garments to be unobtrusive.
vi. To add the design of garments.

14. Discuss on different lining used in garments.

Ans: Fabric choices for lining:
Viscose/Rayon/Cupro Lining: Rayon has thin fibers and because of this the fabric is very much suited to
make a lining. It is breathable and soft, pliable and lightweight. It would not stick to your body even in hot
sweaty weather.
100% viscose and 100% Cupro lining materials are also much in demand for lining as they are soft anti-
static and lightweight.
Cotton Lining: This is the most popular fabric for making linings and the most comfortable against our skin.
Thin lining cotton material does not add extra bulk to the whole garment. This is important for fitting dresses
and trousers.
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Silk Lining: It is breathable and very soft. Silk is very expensive so when added to the cost of fashion
fabric used for the outside, the outfit turns out to be very expensive.
Silk taffeta is a crisp thin fabric and holds its shape inside the garment. This is a favourite lining material for
lightweight /medium weight fabrics especially for dresses and skirts which need some shape/volume
without bulk.
Polyester Lining: Satin made of polyester fibers is often used because of the soft feel. Satin usually has a
smooth surface on the face and a matt surface on the back. Satin is available in many weights and many
price range so it is a favourite as a lining fabric for inexpensive evening wear and costumes.
Acetate Lining: Acetate is the best lining material for occasion wear clothes (those which do not see much
wear – or use and throw clothes). This is a shiny synthetic fabric which is quite inexpensive. Most of the
ready to wear jackets and coats use acetate lining.

15. Distinguish between Lining and Interlining.

Ans: Difference between Lining and Interlining:
Lining Interlining
It is a generic term that is used to cover the inner It is one kind of accessories that is used between
surface of the garments, especially when the inner two layers of fabrics in a garment.
face employs different materials from the outer
surface.
It is used to feel comfortable and to prevent wear It is used to support, reinforce, control the area of
on aside. garments and to retain actual shape.
Smooth and lustrous fabrics made of cotton or silk The fabrics made of nylon, cotton, polyester; wool,
is used in the case of the lining. and viscose are used in case of interlining.
It can be used with lustrous wool fabric or silk It can be used canvas, flannel, and non-woven
filling. fabrics.
It is joined by sewing. It is joined by sewing and fusing.
It is generally applied in jackets and coats. It is generally used in the collar, cuffs, and the front
part of the jackets and coats.

46
 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Trimmings and Accessories

1. Define Trimmings and Accessories. "Quality is first priority for Trimmings"- Shed some light on it.
Ans: All the materials except fabric required to make garments are known as trimmings.
The materials which are not attached with the body of garments by sewing, only used for garments finishing
and packing are termed as accessories.
Quality of Trimmings Should Ensure in Garments Industry:
i. Lifetime,
ii. Shrinkage,
iii. Colorfastness,
iv. Rust,
v. Comfortability.
Lifetime: The lifetime of garments and the entire trimmings of it should be equal. Otherwise, garments will
be useless or rejected if any damaging of trimmings occurs. Especially, the trimmings may be damaged
due to the temperature during washing or pressing if having low quality.
Shrinkage: The garments will be useless or be looking bad if the trimmings of the garments are shrunk due
to the wash or temperature or any other reasons.
Colorfastness: The fastness properties of accessories should be good. The color of trimming should not
be faded due to washing or exposure to sunlight. The appearance of garment will be hampered if the
trimming materials are faded.
Rust: Metal types trimmings of non-textile materials like buttons, zipper, and so on would be rejected due
to form rust on them. To avoid rusting, it must be used metal typed trimmings which are rust-proof or nickel-
plated trimmings or non-metal type trimmings.
Comfortability: Trimming should not create any uncomfortable felling to the wearer. They should be
hygienic also as to cause no skin disease.

2. Make the list of Trimmings and Accessories.

Ans: Different types of trimmings items are mentioned in the following:
i. Sewing Thread vi. Lining xi. All types of Labels such as main label,
ii. Button vii. Metal Badge care label, size label, etc.
iii. Rivet viii. Elastic xii. Hook and Loop
iv. Stopper ix. Zipper xiii. Twill Tape
v. Interlining x. Shoulder Pad xiv. Velcro Tape
xv. Lace

Different types of accessories items are mentioned in the below:

i. Collar stand xi. Patch xxi. Size strip
ii. Carton xii. Gum Tape xxii. Pocket flasher
iii. Carton sticker xiii. Price ticket xxiii. Hand tag
iv. Safety sticker xiv. Polybag xxiv. Photo inlay
v. Hanger xv. Safety Pin xxv. Both Side Tape
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 vi. Drawcord/ String xvi. Tag pin xxvi. Plastic Clip
vii. Backboard xvii. Brass Pin
viii. Neck board xviii. Buckle
ix. Collar stays xix. P.P belt
x. Butterfly xx. Tissue paper

3. Make a list of trimmings and accessories for a basic woven shirt and a pant.
Ans: List of Trimmings Required for Making Shirt:
i. Sewing thread,
ii. Button,
iii. Lining,
iv. Interlining,
v. Motif,
vi. Label i.e. main label, care label, size label, price label, and composition label.
List of Trimmings Required for Making Trouser or Pant:
i. Sewing thread,
ii. Button
iii. Lining,
iv. Zipper,
v. Label i.e. main label, care label, size label, price label, and composition label.
List of Accessories Required for Making Shirt and Pant:
i. Neck board, ix. Plastic clip xvii. Butterfly
ii. Backboard, x. Tissue paper, xviii. String,
iii. Collar stand xi. Polybag, xix. Hang tag
iv. Carton xii. Silica gel bag, xx. Gum tape
v. Carton sticker xiii. Tag pin, xxi. Bruss pin,
vi. Hanger xiv. Safety pin, xxii. Buckle,
vii. Collar stays xv. Price ticket xxiii. Pocket flasher,
viii. Size strip xvi. Safety sticker xxiv. Both side tape,

4. Purpose of trimmings and accessories.

Ans: Purpose of trimmings & accessories:
i. Value addition. (Embroidery thread, horn button, bone button etc.)
ii. Functional. (Securing the opening of a garment.)
iii. Decoration. (Embroidery thread, horn button, bone button etc.)
iv. Information. (Care label, barcode sticker etc.)
v. Ease of handling & delivery. (Polybag, cartoon etc.)
vi. Increase comfortability. (Lining inside coats, jackets etc.)
vii. Shape retention. (Interlining in collar, cuff etc.)

5. Differentiate between Trimmings and Accessories.

Ans: Here the differences-
Trimmings Accessories
The materials which are attached to the body of The materials which are not attached to the body of
garments by sewing are termed trimmings garments by sewing, only used for garments
finishing and packing are termed as accessories

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 Trimmings are the ultimate materials that are Accessories are the ultimate materials that are not
attached to the garments while using by the end- attached to the clothing while using by the end-
users. users.
Trimmings are used for functional purposes. Accessories are used for decorative purposes.
Sewing Thread, Button, Interlining, etc. Carton, Gum Tape, Polybag etc.

6. Define label and Motif. Write down the classification of Label. Discuss about different types of labels
used in garments.
Ans: Label is a component used in garments where some essential information is written such as size,
origin, price etc.
Motif is special component which is attached to the outer side of the garments for increasing the beauty of
the garments. Such as Brand name, trade mark etc.
Types of Label used in Garments:
i. Main Label
ii. Sub Label
Main Label: The main label contains the Brand name or Brand logo of the buyer such as H&M, American
Eagle, Nautica, etc. The brand name is an important factor for any product. Because the customers are
targeted the Brand during buying any product. The main label is totally certified in the right quality of the
brand.
Sub Label: Sub Label is not a label by itself but it includes different types of labels. These are in the
following:
a. Care Label
b. Size Label
c. Price Label
d. Composition Label
e. Special Label
f. Flag Label
Care Label: Care label assists the customers to know how the product should care. It indicates different
types of care instruction about the garments such as Washing, Bleaching, Drying, Laundering, and Ironing.
Size Label: Size label indicates the size of the garments. Size labels are indicated as S, M, L, XL, where S
for small, M for medium, L for large, and XL for extra large.
Price Label: The price label indicates the price of the garments.
Composition Label: The composition label indicates the fabrication and composition percentage of any
garments. That means it indicates which fabrication (Cotton Sub denim, Cotton Regular denim, etc.) and
composition percentage (95% Cotton 5% Spandex, 100% Cotton, etc.) have followed during its
manufacturing.
Special Label: Sometimes the buyer is advised to use the special label in the garments to attract the
customers to their items. Special labels are 100% silk, 100% Cotton, and 100% Leather, etc.
Flag Label: The flag label is a very small label that contains Brands name or Brands logo of the buyer. It is
attached to the side seam of the bottom parts of the clothing.

7. Define sewing thread. Write down the classification of Sewing Thread.

Ans: Sewing thread is a basic raw material for giving desired shape to a garment and holding the body
parts together by creating seams.

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Sewing thread is a basic raw material for giving desired shape to a garment and holding the body parts
together by creating seams. It is a very important item for tailoring shops, industrial garment manufacturers
and fashion houses. It has both functional and aesthetic properties. It can be made of staple fibre or
continuous filaments by twisting hardly or slightly. Two or more filament yarns are twisted together to make
threads. Sometimes single filament is also used. Natural or synthetic or blended fibres can be used to
make sewing threads.
Sewing Thread Classification According To Fiber types:
i. Natural thread
a. Cotton
b. Wool
c. Silk
d. Linen
ii. Synthetic thread
a. Polyester
b. Nylon
According To Construction:
i. Spun
ii. Core-spun
iii. Filament
Based On Finishes
i. Flame Retardant Finish
ii. Anti Static Finish
iii. Water Repellent Finish

8. Why label is necessary?

Ans: The necessity of label are:
i. Provide Identification.
ii. Provide Description.
iii. Gives customers important information
iv. Makes product comparison easy.
v. Helps in marketing.
vi. Makes product Grading Easy.
vii. Protects customers from getting cheated.
viii. Ensures longevity with accurate care instructions.

9. Explain the international care label.

Ans: Care label is a component or trimming of garment which contains some internationally recognized
symbols that indicate the care instructions of the garment. These symbols are called care label codes.
ISO 3758 1991 provides a code of reference for the use of these symbols. The GINETEX care labeling
system consists of five symbols for washing, bleaching, ironing, drying, dry cleaning.

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 Symbol of washing: Bleaching condition:

Symbol of ironing: Dry cleaning condition:

Drying condition:

10. Define Button. Write the classification of Button.

Ans: The button is the most popular trimming among all the fasteners used in clothing. It is also considered
the oldest fastener. It is mainly used for its functional properties but it has aesthetic properties too. Which
type of button should be used depends on the style of garment, the position of the button, and the types of
fabric used to make the garment.

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A button is a small disk or lump attached to the clothing either to decorate or to fasten the cloth by being
pushed through a hole made for that purpose.
Types of Buttons Used in Garments:
i. According to Ligne Number
ii. According to Material Used
iii. According to No. of Hole
According to Ligne Number: Ligne is a French word meaning Line. For measuring diameter of the
buttons we use ligne where 1 ligne is equal to 1/40 inch. In millimeter 1 Ligne equal 0.625 mm. Normally it
is used as sign of L. It refers button size. Button manufacturers were using ligne since early eighteen. Ligne
is the internationally recognized standard. Ligne no. is the measuring unit of the button and indicates the
diameter of the button.
We know that,
Ligne = 0.025 inch or 0.635mm.

Button Used
size
12L Used in button down shirts.
16L Used in spread collar shirt and for shirts
mostly.

18L Used in shirts mostly.

24L Most common for pant.

26L Decorative and others use

28 Decorative and others uses

According to Material Used:

i. Plastic button: Made of polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile etc, cheap, not glossy and widely
used in shirts.
ii. Metal button: Used in normally denim pants, trousers etc.
iii. Wooden button: Used for decorative purposes.
iv. Fabric Button: Used in fancy dress.
v. Glass Button: Used in decorative purposes
vi. Leather Button: Used in sweaters, jackets, sports coats, etc.
vii. Ceramic Button: Used in lightweight and fancy dresses.
viii. Horn button: Made up of horns of animals. Used in shirts, pants.
According to No. of Holes:
i. 2 hole button
ii. 4 hole button.

11. What is velcro. Write the usefulness of using velcro and elastic on clothing.
Ans: Velcro is a two-part fastening system consisting of "hook" and "loop" tapes. When pressed together,
the hooks and loops interlock to form a strong bond.
Velcro consists of two layers: a "hook" side, which is a piece of fabric covered with tiny plastic hooks, and a
"loop" side, which is covered in equally tiny plastic loops. When the two sides are pressed together, the
hooks catch in the loops and hold the pieces together. When the layers are separated, the Velcro strips

52
makes a telltale ripping sound. Since the name Velcro is a registered trademark, generic implementations
often use the name "hook and loop", though in common usage, "velcro" is used generically.
Usefulness of Velcro:
i. It distributes support evenly across the width of the textile
ii. It is fast and easy to install
iii. It can bear the weight of heavy textiles
iv. It reduces distortions in the textile
v. It allows the textile to be detached from its display position quickly and safely, which is especially
useful in emergencies.
Elastic fabric is a combination of materials that have elastic properties as well as flexible characteristics.
Elastic is widely used as garment accessories in clothing.
Uses of Elastic:
i. Widely used in garment cuffs, hem, bra, garter, waistband, waist, shoes, mouth, and sports and
health of body stretch bar and so on.
ii. Suitable for underwear, pants, baby clothes, sweaters, sportswear, aerobics clothing, wedding
dresses, T-shirts, hats, bras, masks and other clothing products.
iii. Knitted elastic band were able to weave a variety of small patterns, color bars and crescent edges,
loose texture, soft, nylon stretch yarn used in most raw materials, products, mostly for women’s bras
and underwear.

12. Briefly discuss on zipper with drawing and identifying its different parts with appropriate labeling.
Ans: A zipper is a fastening or unfastening device that is used to open or close parts of
clothing or other articles. It consists of a slider with a tab, facilitating the opening or
closing of two interlocking teeth or coil connected to a fabric tape strip.
It is an important type of trims in apparel manufacturing. They are purely functional as
well as decorative sometimes.
Parts of a Zipper:
Top stopper: Two devices that are fixed to the top end of a zipper, are called top
stopper. It prevents slider from going out of chain
Slider: The device that is used to open & close the chain is called slider. It is made of
plastic, aluminum or any other metal.
Puller/Pull tab: The part of the slider that is used to move the slider up on down is
called puller or pull tab.
Chain: The continuous piece that is formed when both part of tape of a zipper are
interlocked together, is called chain. It is made of brass, aluminum, nylon or plastic.
Tape: The fabric part of the zipper that is made of cotton, polyester, nylon or of their
mixed fabrics is called tape.
Bottom Stopper: A device that is fixed to the bottom end of a zipper, is called bottom
stopper. The bottom stop prevents the zip from being opened to the lower end of the
tape.

53
 13. What is ticket number?
Ans: The ticket number is a commercial numbering system. It is the manufacturer’s reference number for
the size of a given sewing thread. Actually, the size or count of the thread is called ticket numbers. It is
denoted by tckt, Nm, Ne, etc. Metric, cotton is the ticket numbering system followed in the readymade
clothing sector.

14. Write short notes on: Hook and loop fastening, Lace and Braid.
Ans: Hook and Loop fastener( Velcro) Consists of 2 nylon tapes, one having a surface of loops & the
other having surface of hooks. When pressed together, two tapes adhere & cannot be opened by side way
turn easily open by upward turns. This trimming is used instead of buttons or zippers. It is available in the
market in roll form. It Used in shoes, belts, money bags, bags, suitcase, sportswear, children, medical
textiles etc. Mostly used in the garments of paralyzed persons’. ‘VELCRO’ is also a famous brand for Hook
& Loop Fastening.
Lace is an open work fabric consisting of a network of yarns formed into intricate designs. Lace may be
hand or machine made, and intricate patterns can be produced by either technique. Both narrow and wide
lace fabrics are available. The edges of the fabric may be straight or curved.It is an important trimming, for
it is used for table cloths, curtains, handkerchiefs, dresses and underwear. This trimming is used instead of
buttons or zippers. It is available in the market in roll form.
Braiding is a simple form of narrow fabric construction. A braid is a rope like thing, which is made by
interweaving three or more stands, strips, or lengths in a diagonally overlapping pattern. Braiding is one of
the major fabrication methods for composite reinforcement structures. It is probably the simplest way of
fabric formation. Braiding is an ancient art with the origins in the braiding of hair, the tying of knots, the
braiding of ropes and cables.
Some uses are: clothing and shoes, candle wicks, sash cords, water ski ropes, mountaineering ropes,
yachting ropes, parachute lines, fishing nets, mooring lines, medical applications such as catheters or
dental floss, ground cables, or harnesses.

Differentiate between label & Motif.

What is watch card? How watch card helps on raw material quality controlling?

54
 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Seam and Stitch

1. What is seam? Portray the required properties to make a perfect seam?

Ans: A seam is the combination of the stitch which makes a line to join two plies of fabric.
To make the seam perfect, following are the requirements:
 Seam Performance
 Seam Appearance
Seam performance: Seam performance means the achievement of the following factors:
i. Seam strength: Seam strength should be lower or equal of the fabric strength. If seam strength is
higher than the fabric strength, the fabric may be break down due to unexpected force to the fabric.
ii. Elasticity: Seam elasticity should be equal or higher than the fabric elasticity. Seam elasticity
depends on woven & knitted fabric.
iii. Durability: Durability at seam should be equal or higher than that of fabric.
iv. Comfort: The seam of the garments must be comfortable & do not create any problem during using.
v. Security: Security condition must be fulfilled otherwise it may be happened imperfect condition.
Seam appearance: Seam appearance should be,
i. Satisfactory.
ii. Defect free stitch
 Stitch should be equal
 Stitch density should be equal
 No zigzag stitch is formed
 No stitch variation
 No fabric damage.
iii. Defect free seam
iv. Free from seam pucker
v. No fold of fabric along the fabric.

2. Discuss the seam classification with sketch.

Ans: A formal description of the configuration of a seam is called seam type.
There are eight types of seam used in apparel manufacturing. Those are mentioned in the following:
i. Class-01: Superimposed seam,
ii. Class-02: Lapped seam,
iii. Class-03: Bound seam,
iv. Class-04: Flat seam,
v. Class-05: Decorative seam,
vi. Class-06: Edge neatening,
vii. Class-07: Attaching of separate items.
viii. Class-08: Single ply construction

55
Seam Class-1: Super Imposed Seam
 Seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing
together.
 Most commonly used.
 The fabric ends are in same direction.
 The most basic superimposed seam is SSa.
 It has over 50 variations.
 This class seam can be sewn a variety of machine. Example: Lock
stitch or overlock m/c.
 Uses: Mostly used in side seams like as shirt and pants.
Seam Class-2: Lapped Seam
 Seam is achieved by two or more pieces of fabric.
 Fabric ends are in the opposite direction.
 Mostly two needle chain stitch machines are used.
 This type of seam is very strong.
 Seam thickness is more.
 Uses: Inside seam of jeans and dress shirts etc.
Seam Class-3: Bound Seam
 At least 2 plies of fabric are required.
 Consists of an edge of fabric bounded by another.
 The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment.
 Can be used for both functional & decorative purpose.
 Mostly done by 2 needle sewing machine.
 There are 18 variation of bound seam.
 Uses: Neckline of a t-shirt, Yoke joint in the shirt waist band, underwear, waist band etc.
Seam Class-4:Flat Seam
 Two or more fabric ends are joined without overlapping.
 Seam can be made with the gap of the ends of the fabric for decorative purposes.
 Generally twin needle sewing m/c is used to produce this type of seam where
continuous binding can be made by covering thread between needle threads
 Seam thickness is comparatively less.
 Zigzag stitch causes sufficient stretch for knit fabrics.
 Neat join forms.
 Before sewing, Edge should be cleaned.
Seam Class-5: Decorative Seam
 This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch
lines in one or more layer of fabric.
 Multi-needle sewing machine is used.
 This type of seam is called decorative stitching.
 This seam is produced and used to increase the beauty or decorative value of fabrics.
Seam Class-6: Edge Neatening
 This type seam is used to bind the edge of fabric, so that thread cannot be
drawn off.
 Various stitches are used in this type of seam.
 It can be made by over lock machine.
 If folder is used, the seam can be made easily.

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Seam Class-7: Attaching of separate items
This seam class involves seams that require the addition of another component
onto the edge of a piece of fabric e.g., elastic braid onto the edge of ladies briefs.
This type of seam requires two components.

Seam Class-8: Single ply construction

This type of seams is made by one fabric but the edges of the fabric are sewn by
folding variously. The use of folders is very much helpful for making seams. Seams
can be made at a time with the help of twin needle sewing machines and folders.
Making of belts and belt loops are performed by this type of seam.

3. Find the reason behind seam slippage and discuss the remedies of this problem
Ans: The displacement of stitch related to one or more of the fabrics under some transverse strain is called
seam slippage.
Causes for seam slippage:
i. Seams that run parallel to the warp.
ii. Fabrics that have filament yarns, low counts and unbalanced weave.
iii. Seam slippage may also be affected by stitch type and size
iv. Tension, seam type and size
v. Thread used for sewing and excessive use of fabric lubricant.
Remedies:
i. Seam slippage depends upon the stitch rate, so higher stitch rate will increase the grip, hence
minimize seam slippage.
ii. Increasing seam allowance will reduce seam slippage.
iii. Seam slippage frequently occur by single needle stitch, then can try with double needle stitch.
iv. Sewing with interlining fabric or fusible tape along the seam-line on seams that will help to reduce
seam slippage.
v. Tight stitch will reduce seam slippage because a tighter stitch will more grip of fabric.
vi. Make sure the stitch is properly balanced with the minimum thread tensions.

4. Define seam puckering. Describe the causes and remedies of seam puckering.
Ans: The unwanted waviness of the fabric along the seam line is called seam pucker or seam puckering.
Reasons of seam puckering:
i. Difference in fabric stretch.
ii. Instability in dimension of the fabric.
iii. Tension of sewing thread.
iv. Shrinkage of sewing machine
v. Structural jamming
vi. Unmatched pattern
Remedies of seam puckering:
i. Use suitable feed mechanism
ii. Use suitable sewing thread for fabric.
57
 iii. Use synthetic sewing thread.
iv. Take more care during sewing
v. Remove thread tension.
vi. Change or rectify pattern

5. Define stitch. Describe different types of stitch.

Ans: Every unit of a seam line formed by interloping, intraloping or interlacing of one or more threads is
called stitch. Stitch is the unit of this sewing.
There are 6 types of stitch used in garments:
i. Class-100 (Chain Stitch),
ii. Class-200 (Hand Stitch),
iii. Class-300 (Lock Stitch),
iv. Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch),
v. Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch),
vi. Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch).
Class-100 (Chain Stitch): Class-100 is named chain stitch.
i. Stitch formation technique is intra-looping.
ii. No thread is 1.
iii. Stitch security is poor.
iv. If one stitch is broken, total sewing line will be opened.
v. High Extensibility
vi. Used for temporary joining.
vii. Also used in blind stitch purpose.
Uses: Hemming, button, attaching button holing. gathering and temporary positioning of garment
Class-100 (Chain Stitch) has three types- 101, 103, and 104. These types of stitches are used in hemming,
belt loops, padding operations, and felling.
Class-200 (Hand Stitch): Class-200 is named as hand stitch.
i. Looks like hand stitch.
ii. Used for expensive items.
iii. No. of thread is one.
iv. Special type of needle is used.
v. It is made by special type of m/c, this m/c is called pick stitch
sewing m/c.
vi. Productivity is low.
vii. Contrast color is used.
viii. Using coarser thread.
ix. Produced for longer length sewing.
x. Need more time & skilled operator.
xi. Also used for decorative purpose.
Uses: lapel of jacket, coat & expensive clothes.
Class-200 (Hand Stitch) has four types- running basting, backstitch, diagonal basting, and buttonhole stitch.
These types of stitches are used for stitching costly dresses, jackets, and sample dresses.

58
Class-300 (Lock Stitch): Class-300 is named as lock stitch.
i. Stitch formation technique is interlacing.
ii. No. of thread is two.
iii. One set of thread is called needle thread & another set of thread is called
bobbin thread.
iv. Productivity is low.
v. Extensibility is low.
vi. More compact stitch.
vii. Fine yarn is preferable.
viii. Both side of this stitch looks same.
ix. More secured stitch then chain stitch.
Uses: - Extensively used for joining fabrics collar, cuff, pocket, facing etc. Also used in stop stitching, button
holding, blind stitching etc. Used for attaching lace, elastic etc.
Class-300 (Lock Stitch) has four types- 301. 304, 308, and 309. These types of stitch are used for stitching
underwear, most types, and apparel, and decorative purposes.
Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch): Class-400 is named as multi-thread
stitch.
i. Stitch formation technique is interloping.
ii. Looks like lock stitch from the top.
iii. No. of thread is 2 to 8.
iv. Total number of thread is even.
v. Looks like double chain from bottom/back side.
vi. One set of thread is called needle thread & another set of thread is called looper thread.
vii. Less possibility of producing seam pucker.
viii. Extensibility is some. as lock stitch.
ix. It is used for long sewing in the jeans & trouser.
Uses: Used for long sewing in jeans and trousers. Used with over edge stitch. Used for lace and elastic.
Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch) has three types- 401, 404, and 406. These types of stitches are used for
setting elastic in waistbands and decorative stitching on belts.
Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch): Class-500 is named as an over edge stitch.
i. When the chain stitch is given at the edge of the fabric then it is called
over-edge stitch
ii. Edge neatening seam is produced by this type of stitch.
iii. One or more sets of thread are used.
iv. Better extensibility.
v. The stretch of this stitch is very good.
vi. It is also used for decorative purpose.
Uses Denim jeans, cords etc.
Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch) has three types- 503, 504, and 512. This type of stitch is used for edge
neatening of knitted fabrics. Also used for sportswear and dancewear garments.
Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch): Class-600 is named as covering chain
stitch which is produced with three groups of threads.
i. Formed by 3 sets of threads. 1st set is called needle thread, 2nd set is
called top cover thread. 3rd set is called bottom cover thread.
ii. Very complex stitch.
iii. Thread of 2 sets can be seen from either side.

59
 iv. This stitch is known as flat lock stitch
v. Used for decorative purpose.
vi. This type of stitch is used in knitwear & underwear.
Used for attaching tape, lace, braid, elastic etc. Used in undergarment, making cover stitch, top stitch in the
fabric stitch.
Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch) has three types- 602, 605, and 607. These types of stitches are used for
knits, lingerie, binding elastics, decoration, etc.

6. What is stitch length?

Ans: Stitch length is the width of the stitch made by a sewing needle machine. It is usually expressed in
millimeters, and ranges from 0 to 6 or 7 on most machines. The larger the number, the longer the stitch.
Stitch Length Measurement Technique:
i. At first select or count 100 (hundred) wales and identify the both ends.
ii. Then open or unroll one yarn and measure the length of unroll yarn that is identified.

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 Apparel Manufacturing-I
Subject Code: AE 205
Topics Name : Garments Inspection and Quality Control

1. What is AQL? Limitation of AQL.

Ans: AQL means Acceptable Quality Level. It is one of the most used terms in the readymade garments
industry when it comes into consideration to quality.
AQL is designed as the maximum average defective items in a lot. It is expressed in a percentage number
of average defective items. Can simply be identified by following a formula,
𝑁𝑜.𝑜𝑓 𝑑𝑒𝑓𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑣𝑒 𝑖𝑡𝑒𝑚 𝑓𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑑 𝑑𝑢𝑟𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑖𝑛𝑠𝑝𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛
Average defective item = ×100
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑛𝑜.𝑜𝑓 𝑖𝑡𝑒𝑚 𝑖𝑛𝑠𝑝𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑖𝑜𝑛

Following AQL system can be used in garments industry for final inspection.

 AQL 1%
 AQL 1.5%
 AQL 2.5%
 AQL 4%
 AQL 6.5%
 AQL 10%
Limitation of AQL:
i. It does not give 100% assurance for the confirmation of specifications so there is always some risk
of drawing wrong inference about the quality of the lot.
ii. Success of the system is dependent on, sampling randomness, quality characteristics to be tested,
batch size and criteria of acceptance of lot.

2. Describe sewing defects.

Ans: Sewing defects:
i. Needle damage
ii. Thread breaks
iii. Seam pucker
iv. Skipped stitches
v. Broken stitches
vi. Improper stitches
vii. Wrong stitch density
viii. Uneven stitch density

3. Describe Seem defects.

Ans: Seam defects:
i. Mismatched of joined part
ii. Wrong seam or stitch type used
iii. Wrong shade of thread used.

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 4. Describe assembly defects.
Ans: Assembly defects:
i. Finished components not correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.
ii. Finished garments not to size due to from incorrect patterns, inaccurate making or cutting shrinkage
and stretching fabric, incorrect seam width.
iii. Parts, components, closures or features omitted, caused by had work flow, parts omitted in cutting,
careless operator.
iv. Components of features wrongly positioned or misaligned arising from incorrect marking or sewing
not following the mark.
v. Interlining incorrectly positioned, twisted, too full, too light, cockling.
vi. Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garments, twisted, incorrectly pleated and
so on.
vii. Garments parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness.
viii. Garment parts shaded due to being mixed after cutting.
ix. Parts-in one way fabric in wrong direction.
x. Mismatching trimmings

5. Draw a inspection loop for garments industry.

Ans: For inspection, to be effective, the entire inspection loop must be completed.

Describe fabric inspecting.

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