™

IN
DE
MAA
US
Wingspan: 63.5 in [1613mm]
Wing Area: 711.5 sq in [45.9 sq dm]
Weight: 8 -10 lbs [3.6 - 4.5kg]
Wing Loading: 26-32 oz/sq ft
[80-98 g/sq dm]
Length: 57.75 in [1467mm]

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty
does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite
reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall
be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user
accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in
new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call (217)398-8970 productsupport@top-flite.com

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 2000 FW60P03 for TOPA0150 V1.0

 TABLE OF CONTENTS Build the flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 INTRODUCTION
Hinge the flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Finish building the ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Thank you and congratulations for purchasing the
PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Hook up the flaps and ailerons . . . . . . . . . . .40 Top Flite Gold Edition Focke-Wulf 190 D9. If you
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Finish the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 haven’t yet spent much time studying the Focke-
Engine selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 FINAL CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Wulf, you will soon come to realize that, although at
Exhaust system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Mount the wing to the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 a first glance it appears to be a rather conventional
Fixed gear or retracts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Make the wing fillets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 appearing plane, in actuality the Focke-Wulf has
Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Build the belly pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 some very interesting lines and features. And the “D”
Cockpit & pilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Assemble the cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 model (a “stretched” version of its predecessor, the
Trim scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Mount the muffler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 A) is the most interesting Focke-Wulf with the
COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS . . . . . . . .5 Hook up the throttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 extended nose and aft “fuse plug”. If you’re not
SCALE DOCUMENTATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Install the fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 already a big fan of the Focke-Wulf, after a while it
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Test fit the cockpit kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 will begin to grow on you.
BUILDING SUPPLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Mount the receiver and battery pack . . . . . . .51 This 1/7th scale Top Flite Gold Edition model is an
Adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Balance the airplane laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 ideal plan-form with long nose and tail moments and
Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 adequate wing area—perfect ingredients for a
COVERING TOOLS & ACCESSORIES . . . . . . .6 Final preparations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 smooth flying plane no matter what the type. In spite
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Trim scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 of its interesting lines, building this kit is rather
METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Cover the model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 straight-forward. Though the fuse is sheeted in
TYPES OF WOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Machine gun cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 several sections, none of the contours should
DIE-CUT PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 & 9 Supercharger intake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 present any difficulty for the average modeler
GET READY TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Landing gear covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 (especially since the sheeting is only 1/16" thick). In
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Display propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 the wing, pneumatic retract installation is
Build the stabilizer and elevators . . . . . . . . . .10 Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 straightforward with suggestions on air line routing
Finish the elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Exhaust stacks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 and other details. The characteristic extra long
Build the fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 FINAL ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 landing gear struts, and the structural problems they
BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Join the control surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 present, have been addressed by slightly shortening
Frame the fuse top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Hook up the controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 the struts and by reinforcing the landing gear area
Mount the stab and fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Mount the canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 with 1/8" birch ply landing gear webs.
Sheet the top of the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . .57
Build the fuse bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Balance your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 With this kit you can achieve whatever level of detail
Sheet the bottom of the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Set the control throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 you like. Just by following the instructions and
Mount the tail gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 finishing the plane in a scale-looking trim scheme,
Build the rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 beginning scale modelers will end up with a model
Finish the turtle deck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Charge batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 that very much represents a full-size Fw 190D.
Mount the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Balance propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Experienced builders will find ways to add even more
BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Ground check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 detail, making this Top Flite Gold Edition kit
Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Range check competitive in scale competition.
Frame the wing panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . .59
Fit the landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 AMA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Finish the bottom of the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Join the wing panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
Sheet the bottom of the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Fuel mixture adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
Build the wing tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 3-VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Back cover
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Your Focke-Wulf is not a toy, but a sophisticated 2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you
working model that functions very much like a full-
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
size airplane. Because of its realistic performance, if 3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
you do not assemble and operate your Focke-Wulf class condition, the correct sized engine and correct
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
correctly, you could possibly injure yourself or components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
spectators and damage property. your building process.
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
If this is your first scale model, get the 4. You must properly install all R/C and other
safety of your completed model.
assistance of an experienced modeler who has components so that the model operates properly on
flown this type of plane before. Once completed, the ground and in the air.
your Focke-Wulf will have much value. An 5. You must test the operation of the model before
experienced modeler can help you with “pre-flight” every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
and possibly identify something you may have and you must make certain that the model has
overlooked during construction or setup. He can also remained structurally sound.
help you with your first few flights. If you’re not
already a member of a club, contact the Academy of 6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than you must fly the model only with the help of a DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
2,500 chartered clubs across the country. AMA competent, experienced R/C pilot.
Membership is required at chartered club fields
where experienced modelers and qualified flight Please inspect all parts carefully before starting
ENGINE SELECTION
instructors are available. Contact the AMA at the to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
Recommended engine size:
address or toll-free phone number below. defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at:
.61 to .75 cu. in. [10.0 - 12.0cc] 2-stroke
Academy of Model Aeronautics
-or-
5151 East Memorial Drive (217) 398-8970
.70 to .91 cu. in. [11.5 - 15.0cc] 4-stroke
Muncie, IN 47302 or e-mail us at
(800) 435-9262 productsupport@top-flite.com
Your Focke-Wulf will fly well with any of the
Fax (765) 741-0057
recommended engines. 4-stroke engines and
We’ll be glad to help. If you are calling for
most .75 cu. in. 2-stroke engines will turn a larger
or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org replacement parts, please look up the part
prop at lower RPM. This is often desirable for scale
numbers and the kit identification number
realism. However, many .61 cu. in. 2-stroke
(stamped on the end of the carton) and have
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, them ready when you call.
engines produce about as much horsepower as
.75 2-stroke and will fly the Focke-Wulf extremely
YOURSELF & OTHERS well. If you use a .61 2-stroke engine, a ball
FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT Your Top Flite Gold Edition Focke-Wulf is bearing, Schnuerle-ported engine is
intended for scale and general sport flying recommended. Our flying prototype flew on an
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS including mild aerobatics such as loops, stall O.S.® MAX .61 FX. This engine provided excellent
turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is designed to performance and more than enough power.
1. You must build the plane according to the plan and withstand such stresses. If you intend to use Although larger engines may be used, the extra
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as your Focke-Wulf for more rigorous types of flying horsepower is not needed.
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In such as racing or aggressive aerobatics, it is
a few cases the plan and instructions may differ your responsibility to reinforce areas of the The included adjustable engine mount will hold a
slightly from the photos. In those instances the model that will be subjected to the resulting range of engines from .61 cu. in. 2-stroke through
plan and written instructions are correct. unusually high stresses. .91 cu. in. 4-stroke.

-3-
EXHAUST SYSTEM These items are required for retractable landing gear: COCKPIT AND PILOT
A Top Flite header and muffler are available that CJM Focke-Wulf retractable landing gear
Your model won’t be complete without the Top Flite
will fit inside the cowl. They are designed for (CJMQ3072)
Focke-Wulf Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8411). It includes
2-stroke engines mounted inverted as used on the Robart #164G Hand Pump with Gauge the floor, side panels, instrument panel, seat,
model and shown in the instructions. (ROBQ2363) headrest and hardware. The cockpit kit can be
Williams Bros. #143 3-3/4" Smooth Contour installed after the fuselage is completed, but is
Headers for:
Wheels (WBRQ1143) easier to install if you have it on hand during
O.S.® .61SF, SX - TOPQ7920 Servo for the air control valve (micro or mini construction. Should you choose not to install the
servo preferred) scale Top Flite Cockpit Kit, you could leave the
SuperTigre® .61-.75 K series (muffler bolts
Light weight glass cloth to reinforce wing cockpit empty or make your own cockpit from
go through the muffler and screw into the
sheeting in wheel wells (HCAR5000) balsa or thin cardboard (from cereal boxes.)
engine) - TOPQ7925
(8) #6 x 1/2" screws (GPMQ3160, pkg. of 8)
SuperTigre .61-.75 G series (muffler bolts go Top Flite also offers a 1/7 scale WW II American
through the engine and screw into the muffler) These items are required for fixed landing gear: Full Body Pilot (he could be painted in German
- TOPQ7926 flight gear!). The order number is TOPQ9000.
3-3/4" Main Wheels
.61-.75 Warbird In-Cowl Muffler, TOPQ7915 (4) 3/16" wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
TRIM SCHEME
There may be other exhaust systems that will work
with this model. If you prefer to use another FLAPS The model on the kit box was covered with dove
exhaust system, consider any modifications that gray Top Flite MonoKote® film, then painted with
may have to be made to accommodate it. It may The Focke-Wulf is designed to incorporate scale Testors Model Master Acrylic paint followed by a
be helpful to get your exhaust system as soon as split flaps; however, flaps are optional and not clear-coat of Top Flite LustreKote® flat clear. A
possible and place it over the plan to visualize how necessary for an excellent flying experience. painted finish is the only way to reproduce the spray
it will fit. This will minimize delays when you get to painted camouflaged “patchwork” trim schemes
Without flaps, the takeoff roll is longer and the
that point. found on full-size Focke-Wulfs. If you do decide to
landing speed is faster.
paint your model, the balsa skin must first be
covered either with MonoKote film, glass cloth and
Flaps are not difficult to build, but they do require resin, or another type of covering. Refer to the
FIXED GEAR OR RETRACTS good craftsmanship to fit well. Flaps add nicely to Finishing section near the back of the manual for
the model’s flight characteristics and scale more details that may help you decide how to finish
You may build your Focke-Wulf with either fixed or appearance, and are highly recommended for your model. Since you don’t have to finish it today,
retractable landing gear. The pre bent landing gear those who wish to install them. You will find there is time to seek the advice of experienced
wires are included to build the kit with fixed gear. additional information on the use of the flaps in the builders in your club who can give you tips on how
Should you decide to install retracts, detailed Flying section near the end of this manual. to prep, cover and paint a balsa model.
instructions are provided. The Gold Edition Focke-
Wulf is designed to accept the Century Jet Models’ For Flaps, you will need the following additional If you prefer not to do the work required of a
#39025 pneumatic retracts. You may use other items: painted trim scheme, you may find a simpler scale
retractable landing gear systems but it is up to you trim scheme, or make up your own scale-
to make any modifications necessary. A micro Two standard servos appearing trim scheme simply by covering the
servo was used in the prototype to operate the air (1) Y-connector (HCAM2500 - Futaba® J) Focke-Wulf with a few of the flat military MonoKote
control valve. A standard servo could be used for (6) Small Pivot Point Hinges colors such as dove gray, olive drab, cream, tan,
this, but will take up a bit more room. (GPMQ4001, pkg. of 15) sky blue, insignia blue and black.

-4-
COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS SCALE DOCUMENTATION ❏ 3/32" Wheel collar for tailwheel (GPMQ4302)
❏ R/C Foam padding (1/4", HCAQ1000, or 1/2",
The outline of the Top Flite Gold Edition Focke-Wulf Three-view drawings and photo packs of full size HCAQ1050)
D9 was derived from three-view drawings, photos Focke-Wulfs are available from: ❏ Top Flite MonoKote covering (see Finishing
and highly detailed static kits. Some areas of the section)
Scale Model Research
outline have been slightly changed to improve flight
3114 Yukon Ave. ❏ Paint (see Finishing section)
characteristics. Notably, the area of the “tail feathers” ❏ 3" Spinner (GPMQ4530, white)
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
has been increased to improve directional stability
(714) 979-8058
and control. The landing gear struts have been
Fax: (714) 979-7279
shortened slightly to improve handling and durability,
and do not retract fully into the wing, but protrude Even if you’re not intending to build your Fw 190D for
below the wing approximately 1/8". competition, photos and color drawings are
extremely useful for completing much of the detail
The approximate scale of this model is 1:6.5. work such as the machine gun cover, landing gear BUILDING SUPPLIES
covers, antenna mast, panel lines, etc.
If you plan to enter your Focke-Wulf in scale Squadron/Signal Publications has a series of books Here’s a list of supplies you should have on hand
competition (it’s lots of fun, and the runways are with dozens of close-up photos and highly accurate while you’re building. Some of these are optional.
usually paved!), this kit may be entered in Fun Scale, color drawings featuring trim schemes that may help Use your own experience to decide what you need.
Sportsman Scale and Expert Scale classes in AMA you decide how to finish your model. One of the We recommend Great Planes Pro CA and Epoxy.
competition. All classes have the same flight Focke-Wulf books is listed below and is available
requirements in which you must perform ten from most hobby shops.
maneuvers, five of which are mandatory. The other ADHESIVES
five are up to you—“easy” stuff like a slow, low Fw 190D Walk Around, No. 5510 (order number
inspection pass with flaps extended, or maybe a SSPZ5510) ❏ 2 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003)
touch-and-go. If you have never competed in a scale ❏ 2 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale, ❏ 2 oz. Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
the only documentation required is any proof that a OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED ❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
full-size aircraft of this type, in the paint/markings ❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
These are the additional items you will need to
scheme on your model, did exist. A single photo, a kit
complete your Focke-Wulf 190D that have not ❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
box cover from a plastic model, or even a painting is
sufficient proof! If you’re interested, contact the AMA
already been mentioned and are not included with ❏ 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047), or 45-minute
the kit. Order numbers are in parentheses (GPMR6048) epoxy
for a rule book that will tell you everything you need to
(HCAM2200). TOP is the Top Flite brand, GPM is the
know. You can find a contest schedule in the back of ❏ 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
Great Planes® brand and HCA is the Hobbico® brand.
the AMA magazine (Model Aviation). ❏ Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ 4 to 6-Channel radio with 5 to 8 servos ❏ J & Z Products Z RC/56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
One last note for those who are interested in scale ❏ (2) 24" Servo extension cords ailerons ❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
competition; Strive to build your model to reflect your (HCAM2200 - Futaba J)
documentation. Whatever lines and features appear ❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Switch/charging jack mount kit (GPMM1000)
on the full size plane should also appear on your ❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)
❏ Propellers (refer to the instructions that come
model. Refer to the photos and documentation of the ❏ Auto body filler (Bondo® or similar)
with your engine)
Focke-Wulf you are using for your model. ❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up
❏ 14 oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4106)
❏ Fuel line (2’, GPMQ4131) excess epoxy)
❏ Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160) ❏ 3M 75 Repositionable spray adhesive
❏ 1" Tailwheel (GPMQ4241) (MMMR1900)
-5-
TOOLS COVERING TOOLS AND 12’ roll of Adhesive-backed:
80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180)
❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.) ACCESSORIES 150-grit sandpaper (GPMR6183)
❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.) 180-grit sandpaper (GPMR6184)
Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510) 220-grit sandpaper (GPMR6185)
Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)
❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle (HCAR0480) -and-
❏ T-Pins (HCAR5100 — small, Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)
HCAR5150 — medium, HCAR5200 — large) Top Flite Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)
and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
-or-
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", sandpaper for finish sanding.
21st Century® Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
7/32", 1/4", #29 (or 9/64", or Great Planes 8-32 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)
tap and drill set listed below), #7 (or 13/64", or
Great Planes tap and drill set listed below), #12
(for enlarging wheels to fit on axles of CJM
retracts), or #9 (or 13/64" for enlarging wheels
EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER
™

for fixed landing gear)

❏ 1/4-20 Tap and drill (GPMR8105)
❏ 8-32 Tap and drill (GPMR8103)
❏ Tap wrench (GPMR8120)
❏ Kyosho® Lexan® Curved Scissors (KYOR1010)
❏ Long handle 9/64" ball end hex wrench
(GPMR8004)
❏ Silver Solder (GPMR8070 w/flux)
A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
❏ Great Planes® Plan Protector™ (GPMR6167) or Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar
wax paper Sanders (patented) and replaceable Easy-Touch
❏ Dremel® #178 cutting bit (for countersinking Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the
screws in the servo hatch covers) Focke-Wulf we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two
11" Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit
❏ Robart® Super Stand II (ROBP1402)
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.
❏ Easy–Touch™ Bar Sanders* We recommend using plastic bags filled with lead
Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders shot for building weights. They assume the shape
and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper: of the curved surfaces to apply uniform pressure
without making dents in the balsa. You can
Note: In several instances the manual suggests 5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169) purchase shot at sporting goods stores where
using K & S brass tubing sharpened at one end to 11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170) hunting supplies are sold. We use #6 lead shot.
cut accurate, clean holes in balsa. Use a rotary tool 22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172) One 25 lb. bag costs about fifteen to twenty dollars.
with a cut-off wheel to sharpen the outside edge of You can use small sealable food storage bags to
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
the tube, and a hobby knife to sharpen the inside hold the shot. Tape them shut for security. Each bag
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
holds about two to three pounds. Ten to fifteen bags
edge of the tube. The sizes of tubing used are 1/8", 11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)
may be required for this model.
3/16" and 5/32".
-6-
 IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES you are working on it. Similarly, move the former
up means move the former toward the top of the
There are two types of screws used in this kit: fuselage even if the fuselage is upside-down when
you are working on it.
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number
and a length. • When you get to each step, read that step
completely through to the end before you begin.
For example #6 x 3/4" long [1.91mm] Frequently there is important information or a note
at the end of the step that you need to know before
you start.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step

Machine screws are designated by a number, they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
threads per inch, and a length. following steps to get another view of the same parts.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" long [1.91mm]

METRIC CONVERSION
1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, 1/64" = .4mm 1" = 25.4mm
it means that you should first position the part on 1/32" = .8mm 2" = 50.8mm
the assembly without using any glue, then 1/16" = 1.6mm 3" = 76.2mm
slightly modify or custom fit the part as necessary 3/32" = 2.4mm 6" = 152.4mm
for the best fit. 1/8" = 3.2mm 12" = 304.8mm
5/32" = 4mm 15" = 381mm
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely 3/16" = 4.8mm 18" = 457.2mm
upon your experience to decide what type of glue to 1/4" = 6.4mm 21" = 533.4mm
use. When a specific type of adhesive works best for 3/8" = 9.5mm 24" = 609.6mm
that step the instructions will make a recommendation. 1/2" = 12.7mm 30" = 762mm
5/8" = 15.9mm 36" = 914.4mm
• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use 3/4" = 19mm
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
45-minute) epoxy because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength. TYPES OF WOOD
• Occasionally we refer to the top or bottom of the
model or up or down. To avoid confusion, the top
or bottom of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as
the top even if the model is upside-down during
that step, i.e. the top main spar is always the top
main spar even if the wing is upside-down when BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD
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DIE-CUT PATTERNS

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DIE-CUT PATTERNS

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 GET READY TO BUILD BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
Build the stabilizer and elevators
❏ 1. A miniaturized building plan is included in the
middle of this manual. It may be removed and used as ❏ 1. Cut the stab plan from the fuse plan sheet and
a quick, handy reference, so you don’t have to get out place it over your building board. Cover the stab plan
the full-size plan when you are not building over it. with Great Planes Plan Protector or waxed paper to
protect it from glue. Note: If you are a neat builder,
there is no need to protect the plan as the glue joints
are raised off the plan.
❏ 2. If you’ve already purchased your retractable
landing gear, or as soon as you do, take the air lines
out of the package, unravel them and hang them
somewhere in your shop. By the time you are ready
to install the air lines, all the kinks will be out and
they’ll be easier to work with.

❏ 3. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a

ballpoint pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the
name or size on each piece so you can identify it later.
Use the die-cut patterns on pages 8 & 9 to identify
and mark the die-cut and laser-cut parts before you ❏ 2. Use a single-edge razor blade to extend the
remove them from their die sheets. Place a slots through the leading edge in the die-cut 3/32"
straightedge across the punchmarks on the die sheet balsa stab ribs S-1 and S-2. ❏ 4. Position the assembly over the stab plan. Cut
on both sides of the forward wing joiner and draw a twenty 2-1/2" long rib jig sticks from two 1/4" x 1/4"
centerline. When it's time to join the wing halves, the x 30" balsa sticks. Pin the rib jig sticks to the building
centerline can be used to align the forward wing joiner. board on both sides of all the ribs (except S-1). As
Many of the parts already have numbers stamped on you can see, the rib jig sticks securely hold the ribs
them, but in some cases the numbers are located to the plan, yet will allow easy removal of the stab
alongside the parts or only on the die drawings in the from the building board after the sheeting is glued
manual. You may remove all the die-cut parts from into position. Temporarily remove the stab center to
their die sheets now, or wait until you need them. If a position the rib jig sticks on the inside edges of ribs
part is difficult to remove, don’t force it out, but cut S-2. Note: Make sure the T-pins do not protrude
around it with a hobby knife and a #11 blade. After you above the ribs so they will not interfere with the top
remove the parts from their die sheets, lightly sand the stab sheeting that will be added later.
edges to remove slivers or die-cutting irregularities.
Save some of the larger scraps of wood. ❏ 5. Make certain the stab TE is aligned over its
❏ 3. Without using any glue, join S-1 and both S-2’s location on the plan and that the jig tabs of all the ribs
to the die-cut 1/8" plywood stab center. Join the stab are contacting the plan. Use medium CA to glue the
center with the ribs to the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE stab TE to the ribs. Note: Make certain both S-6’s
❏ 4. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, (trailing edge), followed by the rest of the stab ribs remain perpendicular to the plan. This way the stab
fin, wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top and the die-cut 1/8" balsa elevator LE (leading and elevator tip blocks will align with the stab when
food storage bags. edge) spars. it’s time to glue them on.
- 10 -
 Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting,
though occasionally a few of these sheets may
have a small nick or split near the ends. If your kit
contains a few of these sheets, arrange them and
glue them together so the defects will not interfere
with the final shape of the skin.

❏ 9. Use the 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets supplied

B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the trued
with this kit and select four of the softer (and lighter)
edges of the sheets together.
sheets to be used for sheeting the tail surfaces.

❏ 10. Use your own method or the Hot Tip that

❏ 6. Cut 2" from a 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" balsa stick. follows to make two 1/16" x 6" x 30" sheets from the
Use medium CA to glue the elevator LE spars to the four balsa sheets you selected in the previous step.
ribs, inserting the stick between the elevator LE spar
and the stab TE at each rib as you glue it.

C. Turn the sheets over and apply slow drying

glue like Great Planes Pro aliphatic resin to the
joining edges. Some prefer to use CA, but it is not
recommended in this Hot Tip because CA does
not allow enough working time to align the sheets
and it is much harder than the balsa, making
sanding difficult.
HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS

❏ 7. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper or a

hobby knife to carefully bevel the front of the ribs to
match the aft sweeping angle of the LEs. Cut the 30"
long shaped balsa stab LE to the correct length for
both LEs. Glue them, centered vertically, to the front
of the ribs and stab center.

D. Lay the sheets on your workbench covered with

wax paper. Use a credit card or something similar
❏ 8. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to A. Use a straightedge to true one edge of two as a squeegee to simultaneously press the sheets
sand the tops of the ribs, the stab TE and the
balsa sheets. flat as you wipe the glue from the seam.
elevator LE spars so they are all even.
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 that is required should be done before the sheeting is steps (you can get three skins from one sheet, but
glued in place. The only sanding that should be will have to use the second sheet for the fourth skin).
required after the sheeting is glued to the structure is Note that the grain is parallel with the LE. Hint: Make
final sanding with 320 or 400-grit sandpaper. a paper template and use it to make the skins.
Always cut the skins slightly oversize to allow for
trimming and positioning. Save the leftover sheeting
for the elevators and fin.
Here are a few other things to keep in mind
while sanding balsa sheeting:

1. Make sure you sand the sheets on a flat work

surface that is free from hardened drops of glue or
other imperfections that will damage your
sheeting.

2. Sand the sheeting only as much as required.

The inside of the sheeting needs to be sanded just
enough to remove excess glue and doesn’t have
to be perfectly flat or smooth.

3. Though more material can be removed by

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.
sanding across the grain, this leaves scratches in
E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down to the balsa. Balsa sheeting should be sanded with
make sure they are even. This is important. Little the grain—especially when finish-sanding.
❏ 12. Glue two of the skins to the top of the stab.
sanding will be required if the sheets are even. Usually we recommend using aliphatic resin for this
because of the time required for accurate positioning
4. If some of the glue joints are uneven, it may be
and adjustment. However, this is a relatively small
best just to leave them that way, rather than to
stab, so if the skins fit well and you can work quickly,
sand the sheets too thin. A slightly uneven glue
medium CA may be used.
joint is preferable to paper-thin balsa.

F. Place weights on top of the sheet to hold it flat

while the glue dries. ❏ 13. Use the smaller pieces of leftover balsa
sheeting to make four elevator skins. Glue two of
G. After the glue dries, sand the sheets flat the skins to the top of the elevators.
and even.

Note: Some modelers tend to sand the sheeting too

much after it is applied to the structure, making thin ❏ 14. Lift the stab from the building board. The ribs
spots where fingers can easily go through. By should slide out from in between the rib jig sticks.
following the procedure above (specifically, by aligning Glue the bottom of the stab center (where you
the joined edges of the sheets as shown in step E), ❏ 11. Make four stab skins from the two 1/16" x 6" couldn’t reach when the stab was pinned to the
little sanding should be required. Most of the sanding x 30" balsa sheets you prepared in the previous building board) to the rest of the structure.
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 ❏ 18. Sand a similar bevel to the inside of the
remaining two elevator skins. Glue the skins to the
bottom of the elevators.

❏ 19. Glue the bottom stab skins to the bottom of the

stab. Press the sheeting down evenly, being careful
not to add any twist.

❏ 15. Cut the stab and elevator hinge blocks from Refer to this photo for the following two steps.
a 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick and glue them into
The stab is symmetrical. Now that it’s sheeted
position where shown on the plan.
there is no longer a “top” or a “bottom.” At any time
❏ ❏ 22. Place one of the shaped 5/8" balsa stab
tips and one of the shaped 5/8" balsa elevator tips
you can decide which surface looks the best and
over the plan (to be certain you identify the parts
designate that as the top.
❏ 16. Use a hobby knife to carefully trim the jig tabs correctly—they look similar to each other). Glue the
from the bottom of the ribs, the stab TE and the stab tip to the right side of the stab.
elevator TE spars. Use a bar sander with 80-grit
sandpaper to sand the hinge blocks even with the
bottom of the stab and elevators. ❏ ❏ 23. Slightly round the LE of the elevator tip. Glue
the elevator tip to the end of the elevator, but not to
the stab, with about a 1/16" space between them.

❏ 20. Sand the sheeting on both ends of the stab

even with S-6.
❏ 17. Position the stab on your workbench or a flat
platform so that the TE of one of the elevator skins is
even with the edge. Carefully sand a bevel to the
elevator skin until the TE is 1/32" thick. The elevator ❏ ❏ 24. Shape the tips even with the stab and
ribs will set your bar sander at the correct angle. The ❏ 21. Trim the top and the bottom of the stab LE’s elevator, but do not round them yet. Our preferred
line in the photo indicates the bevel. Sand the other even with the sheeting, but don’t round them until method for shaping balsa tips is to first use a razor
elevator skin the same way. instructed to do so. plane, followed by a bar sander.
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❏ ❏ 25. Finish shaping the stab and elevator tips by ❏ ❏ 3. Glue one of the 1/2" x 5/8" x 1-15/16" balsa ❏ ❏ 6. Using the centerlines you marked as a guide,
rounding the corners. Round the LE on the right side elevator root blocks to the end of one of the cut the hinge slots in the elevator and corresponding
of the stab to match the cross-section on the plan. elevators. Shape the block to match the rest of the stab half where shown on the plan. Of course, we
elevator. The corners on the end of the root block use a Great Planes Slot Machine™ to cut hinge slots
❏ 26. Repeat the previous four steps for the left side remain square. for CA hinges.
of the stab.

❏ ❏ 4. Cut the elevator leading edge from a 3/16" x

1/2" x 30" balsa stick, then glue it to the front of the
elevator. The same as you’ve done with the tip and root
Finish the elevators blocks, shape the LE to match the rest of the elevator.
DRILL A 3/32" HOLE
1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER
OF HINGE SLOT

(Note: This step is not necessary if you have

cut hinge slots with a Slot Machine.)
❏ ❏ 7. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep in the center of
the hinge slots. Use a rotary tool with a drill bit or a
carbide cutter for the best results. Insert a knife blade
to clean out the slot after you drill the holes.

❏ 1. Use a razor saw to cut through the ribs, freeing

both elevators from the stab. ❏ ❏ 5. Mark a centerline on the LE of the elevator.
An accurate way to do this is to stick a T-pin in the
❏ 2. Sand the protruding ends of the ribs and the center of the elevator LE near both ends. Position a
stab sheeting even with the stab TE. Do the same straightedge against the T-pins and draw a line with ❏ ❏ 8. Cut three 3/4" x 1" hinges from the CA hinge
with the both elevators and sand the ends of the a ballpoint pen. Mark a centerline on the TE of the strip supplied with this kit. Snip the corners off so the
elevator sheeting even with both S-2’s. stab the same way. hinges go into the slots easier.
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 Build the fin

❏ 1. Cut the fin plan from the side view of the fuse
plan along the dashed lines. Place the fin plan over
your building board. The same as the stab, if you
work carefully there is no need to protect the plan
from glue.

❏ ❏ 9. Test fit the elevator to the stab with the ❏ 12. With the elevators temporarily connected to
hinges. Shift the elevator over to create a 1/32" gap the stab with the hinges, center the elevator joiner
between the elevator tip and the end of the stab at wire on the elevators where shown on the plan. Use
S-6. Sand the elevator tip to match the stab tip. a ballpoint pen to mark the location of the joiner
wires on the elevator root blocks.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 2. Just the same as the stab, hold the die-cut 3/32"

balsa fin ribs V-1 through V-5 over the plan with rib
jig sticks cut from two 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" balsa sticks.
Note that the widest part of each rib is the LE. Add
❏ 13. Drill 1/8" holes and cut grooves in both the die-cut 1/8" balsa fin TE spar and align it over
❏ ❏ 10. Shape the LE of the elevator to a “V” for elevators to accommodate the joiner wire. Hint: Use the plan. Glue the ribs to the fin TE spar.
control throw. Make certain you can achieve 5/8" of a 1/8" brass tube sharpened on one end to cut the
both up and down control throw as described in the grooves in the LE.
Control Throws section on page 58. Increase the
angle of the bevel if necessary. ❏ 14. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the joiner
wire. Make certain both elevators are parallel. If
necessary, bend one of the “arms” of the joiner wire ❏ 3. Sand the LE of the fin ribs to the angle of the
to align the elevators with each other. Note: If you LE on the plan. Cut the fin LE from the 3/8" x 1-3/4"
found it necessary to bend the wire, it must be x 12" balsa stick. Glue the fin LE to the front of the
❏ 11. Repeat steps 3 through 10 to finish the inserted into the elevators the same way when it’s ribs. Trim the left side of the fin LE to within 1/8" of
other elevator. time to glue it in. the upward facing (left side) of the ribs.
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 right side of the fin ribs. Cut two fin hinge blocks BUILD THE FUSE
from the same 1/4" x 3/8" stick used for the stab and
elevator hinge blocks, then glue the hinge blocks to Frame the fuse top
the fin TE spar where shown.
Note: The formers that have part names stamped
on them are stamped with only the necessary
❏ 7. Sheet the right side of the fin. Sand the fin portion of their names (some formers are too
sheeting even with the fin tip and TE spar, then sand small to have a name stamped on them). For
the fin LE even with the sheeting. Do not round the example, former F-2A is stamped “2A”. As noted
LE of the fin until instructed to do so. earlier in the manual, refer to the die drawing
❏ 4. Add the die-cut balsa rib V-6 and the top of the pages to identify the parts correctly.
fin TE spar cut from leftover 1/8" balsa. Use a
builder’s square to make sure V-6 is perpendicular to ❏ 1. Cut the top view of the fuse plan from the fuse
the building board. plan sheet. Place it over your building board covered
with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.

❏ 8. Glue the 11/16" x 1-3/16" x 3-3/8" balsa fin tip

❏ 5. Sand left side of the fin TE spar even with the to the fin. Shape the tip to match the fin, but do not ❏ 2. Cut the forward main stringers from two 3/16"
ribs. Use the pattern provided on the plan to make round until instructed to do so (after the rudder is x 3/8" x 48" grooved balsa sticks. Note the bevel that
two fin skins from the 1/16" sheeting leftover from completed). must be cut on the aft end of the stringers at F-11.
the stab. Glue one of the fin skins to the left side of It’s okay to cut the stringers an inch or so longer than
the fin. This is all that can be done on the fin for now, until required so the excess extends forward of F-1. Pin
the top of the fuse is built. The rudder is built directly both stringers to the plan.
onto the fin when the fuse is near completion. So
now, it’s time to build the fuse!

Refer to this photo for the next two steps.

❏ 6. After the glue has hardened, remove the fin ❏ 3. Cut the aft main stringers from the remaining
from the building board. Trim the jig tabs from the 3/16" x 3/8" x 48" grooved balsa stick. Be certain to cut
-16-
the bevel on the front of the aft stringers to the correct ❏ 9. Glue formers F-5A through F-10A to the main
angle (if you cut the stringers a few inches longer than stringers over their location on the plan. Make certain
required you will have enough material to make a few the formers are facing forward and use a builder’s
adjustments until you get the angle just right). square to hold the formers perpendicular while
gluing them in place.

❏ 4. Use a razor saw to cut partway through the

inside edges of the aft main stringers at F-12 so they
can make the bend. Pin the stringers into position
and glue them to the forward stringers. Add a few
drops of medium CA to the stringers where you cut
them at F-12.

Now for some of the fun stuff... ❏ 7. Use a 3/16" brass tube sharpened at the end to
cut holes centered over the punchmarks in die-cut
Note: All the following parts are die-cut 1/8" plywood 1/8" balsa formers F-11A and F-10A.
unless otherwise indicated.

❏ 10. Assemble the stab base assembly at the back

of the fuselage with both stab bases (SB), the fin
LE brace, the die-cut 1/8" balsa formers F-11A & F-
12A, the die-cut 3/32" balsa sub deck and the die-
cut 1/8" balsa spine. Glue the pieces into position.

❏ 5. Without using any glue, join the parts of the

upper crutch assembly including the left and right
upper crutches (LUC, RUC), the crutch top (CT)
and F- 2A, F-3A and F-4A. Fit the assembly to the
main stringers over their location on the plan.
❏ 8. If you are going to install the optional Top Flite
Scale Cockpit kit, use a straightedge and a ballpoint
❏ 6. Glue the assembly together and to the main pen to mark the cut-out lines on both die-cut 1/8" ❏ 11. Glue together both halves of the die-cut 1/8"
stringers. Use a small builder’s square to make plywood formers F-6D and F-7A as shown. The balsa cockpit deck so the notches align. Sand the
certain the formers are perpendicular to the building shaded portions shown in the photo will be removed pieces flat and even. If you are going to install the
board. Note: Don’t worry about glue joints you can’t later to accommodate the cockpit kit. Cut partway scale cockpit interior, cut the deck along the partially
reach while the fuse top is pinned to the building through the formers, so they will be easier to cutout embossed lines and remove that section. Fit, then
board. We’ll remind you to reinforce them later. after they are glued into position. glue the cockpit deck into position.
-17-
 stringers into the notches of F-5A to F-9A Sand the main stringers to match the angle of the
(immediately under the cockpit deck) on both sides formers. Replace the fuse top on the building board,
of the fuse (you’ll have two half-stringers leftover). holding it down with T-pins.
Then, fit the two leftover pieces into the notches of F-
8A to F-10A on both sides of the fuse. And finally, fit
three more stringers into the notches of F-1 to F-11A
on both sides of the fuse. They will have to be spliced
together at the notch in F-5A. Add former F-1A to the
assembly as you are fitting the stringers to the front
of the fuse.

❏ 14. After the stringers and former F-1A have been

❏ 12. Glue together die-cut 1/8" balsa formers F-6A, fitted, glue them into position. Use a builder’s square
F-6B and F-6C, then glue them into the notch in the to make certain F-1A is perpendicular to the
cockpit deck. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa instrument building board.
panel (IP) to the cockpit deck. Note that the
instrument panel and the F-6 assembly are
perpendicular to the building board, not to the
cockpit deck. ❏ 17. Glue the five 1/8" x 3/16" x 24" sub stringers
into the groove of the main stringers. Make sure
Now for the real fun part... none of the T-pins are protruding in the groove which
would interfere with the fit of the sub stringers.

Before we can sheet the fuse top, the stab and fin
must be glued into position.
❏ 15. Bevel the edges of the cockpit deck to match
the shape of the fuselage and the angle of the spine.
Sand all of the stringers and the sub deck even with Mount the stab and fin
the formers.
❏ 1. Position the stab on the stab base. Taking
careful measurements, make certain the stab is
centered, side-to-side, on the stab bases. Place a
weight on top of the stab to hold it down.

❏ 13. Use a total of seven 3/16" x 3/16" x 30" balsa

sticks for the stringers in the top half of the fuselage.
Without using any glue, start by fitting two stringers
into the top three notches of F-1 to F-6D (you’ll have ❏ 16. Temporarily remove the T-pins from the main ❏ 2. Measure the distance from the bottom of the
about a half of a stringer leftover). Next, fit two more stringers and take the fuse top off the building board. stab at both tips down to the building board. If the
-18-
distances are not equal (if the stab is not level), Sheet the top of the fuse
lightly trim the stab bases until you can get the stab
level. Use caution not to change the incidence By now you’ve noticed that the Focke-Wulf fuselage
angle of the stab. If the stab is not exactly level, but has some interesting lines and curves. Unlike many
it’s close, sometimes all it takes is shifting the weight other warbirds that have either a round fuselage
slightly. Hint: Use balsa blocks of equal thickness to (such as a Corsair) or a “slab-sided” fuselage (such
level the stab. If you do this, make certain the stab is as a Mustang), the Focke-Wulf fuse features a
fully contacting the stab bases. mixture of irregular curves and converging angles.
While this doesn’t necessarily make sheeting the
fuselage difficult, careful thought and planning were
required during the construction of our prototype to
determine a procedure that modelers could
duplicate. Blocks are used in areas where it would be
Refer to this photo for the following three steps. too difficult to sheet. If you are an expert at sheeting
models, or if you prefer to do it a different way, you
❏ 6. Use the “T-pin and straightedge” technique to could venture off. For most modelers, we
mark a centerline down the TE of the fin. After the recommend that you carefully follow these
epoxy from the stab has fully hardened, test fit the fin instructions to end up with a fuselage that replicates
to the stab and fuse. Use a builder’s square placed the lines of the Focke-Wulf.
along the centerline you marked on the fin TE to
❏ 3. Stick a T-pin into the center fuse stringer above make sure the fin is vertical. Trim the fin sheeting
F-1. Tie a small loop in one end of a 50" piece of non- where necessary for a good fit to the top of the stab
elastic line such as monofilament or Kevlar fishing and the sub stringers.
line. Slip the loop over the T-pin. Fold a piece of
masking tape over the string near the other end and ❏ 7. Temporarily join the elevators to the stab with
draw an arrow on it. Slide the tape along the string the elevator joiner wire and the hinges. Cut round
and align the arrow with one end of the stab as notches in the fin sheeting to accommodate the
shown in the photo. Swing the string over to the elevator joiner wire.
same position on the other side of the stab. Shift the
stab and slide the tape along the string until the ❏ 8. With the elevator joiner wire in position, glue
arrow aligns with both sides of the stab. The stab the fin into position with 30-minute epoxy. Before the
must remain level and centered during this process. epoxy cures, make certain the fin is vertical and the
front of rib V-1 is centered on F-12. Do not build up a
❏ 4. Mark the stab where it aligns with the fuse so it fillet of epoxy between the fin sheeting and the stab.
can be realigned after you take it off.

❏ 5. Remove the stab. Mix up a batch of 30-minute

epoxy. For additional strength, add Great Planes
Milled Fiberglass (GMR6165). Apply epoxy to the
stab bases and to the bottom of the stab where it
contacts the saddles. Reposition the stab and place ❏ 1. One at a time, remove the T-pins from the main
weights on top of it to hold it down. Confirm stab stringer and reinsert them as shown in the sketch.
alignment with the pin and string. Wipe away excess This way, the pins won’t be concealed under the
epoxy and do not disturb the model until the epoxy sheeting when it’s time to take the fuse off the
has fully hardened. building board.
-19-
This is really the only “tricky” piece of sheeting. bottom of the sheet rests against the sub stringer. A
We’ve provided three photos to make sure you piece of leftover 1/16" sheeting will have to be added
can do it correctly. to the top of the sheet where it cannot reach the
cockpit deck. Note that the aft edge of the fuse sheet
“steps down” twice; once to the middle of the stringer
and once more to the top edge of the sub deck. The
front of the sheet also has a step down to the stringer
at F-6B. Once you have cut the sheet to fit, use a
ballpoint pen to trace its outline onto another sheet
to make a pattern for the right side.

❏ 3. Glue the sheet into position. We prefer to use

aliphatic resin to glue the sheet to the main and sub ❏ 5. Sheet both sides of the fuse between F-11A
stringers holding it in place with T-pins. After the glue and F-12A using both of the 4" pieces you cut in step
dries, wet the sheet with water or window cleaner (it 2 and 3. You’ll have to add a strip of leftover sheeting
shouldn’t need much, it’s only 1/16" thick), then use to the bottom of the 4" sheet so it will reach all the
medium CA to glue it to the rest of the stringers, way up to the spine. Note that the aft edge of the
formers, sub deck and cockpit deck. Fit, then trim sheet extends to the middle of F-12A.
and glue the other sheet to the right side (setting
aside another 4" portion of the sheet as you did in
the previous step). Hint: When wetting the sheeting,
use a paint brush to avoid getting over-spray on the
rest of the structure.

❏ 2. Cut 4" from a 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet. Set

the 4" piece aside for use later. Cut the larger portion ❏ 4. Cut two 5" pieces from another 1/16" x 3" x 30"
of the sheet to fit the fuse as shown. The sheet balsa sheet. Save the remaining 20" sheet for use
extends from the middle of F-5A to the middle of later. Use the 5" pieces to sheet both sides of the
F-11. Cut the top edge of the sheet slightly higher fuse aft of the cockpit deck between F-9A and F-10A ❏ 6. Glue both 1" x 1-3/16" x 4-1/8" balsa aft turtle
than the cockpit deck (to be sanded flush later). The as shown in the photo. deck blocks to the sub deck and the spine. Shape
-20-
the blocks to match the shape of the sheeting and F-6B to a point 7/8" ahead of F-4A. Save the
the spine. Hint: After carving the block to the remaining 12" piece to sheet the fuse under the stab.
approximate shape, wrap a piece of Great Planes Sheet the rest of the front of the fuse using a 1/16" x
80-grit adhesive back sandpaper around a glue 3" x 30" balsa sheet. Note: Don’t be too concerned
bottle for a curved sander. about the appearance of the sheeting from F-6B to
F-4A. This area of the fuse will be concealed by the
molded ABS machine gun cover.

❏ 12. Use the pattern provided on the plan to shape

the 1-1/8" x 1-7/8" x 3" balsa fin fillet block as
shown in the photo.

❏ 7. Sheet both sides of the front of the fuse as

shown using one 1/16" x 4" x 30" balsa sheet.
❏ 9. Sheet the instrument panel from F-6B to the IP
with leftover 1/16" balsa.

❏ 10. Remove all the T-pins and take the fuse top off
the building board. Trim the sheeting and stringers
even with F-1A. Look for glue joints you couldn’t get
to while the fuse top was pinned to the building board
or ones that don’t look strong enough and reinforce
them with CA.

❏ 13. Glue the fin fillet block into position. Carve,

❏ 8. Cut 8" from the 20" sheet leftover from step 4. ❏ 11. Use the 12" piece of 1/16" sheeting leftover from then sand the fin fillet block blending it to the fin and
Use the 8" piece to sheet the top of the fuse from step 8 to sheet both sides of the fuse under the stab. the fuse. As you proceed, round the LE of the fin, but
-21-
do not round the tip of the fin until instructed to do so. ❏ 6. Cut two 3/16" pushrod guide tubes to a length
Fill the gap between the fuse sheeting and the fin of 29" and 31". Scuff the guide tubes with coarse
fillet block with balsa filler. sandpaper so glue will adhere.

Note: From some viewpoints, the aft end of the fuse

where it joins the fin features some “funny” angles.
Due to the added fuse section, this represents the ❏ 7. Install the tubes and glue them to F-11A with
actual shape of the full-size Fw 190D. In truth, your CA and to the sheeting where they exit the fuse with
model probably looks better than the real one! Hey, epoxy mixed with microballoons. The tubes will be
they didn’t build ‘em pretty, they just had to get the sanded even with the sheeting after the rest of the
job done! fuse is sheeted.

❏ 3. All of the parts in this step are die-cut 1/8"

Build the fuse bottom plywood. Fit but do not glue the right and left lower
crutches (RLC, LLC), the crutch bottom (CB), one
❏ 1. Reinforce the glue joint inside the fuse between of the firewall laminations F-1, the servo tray and
the bottom of the stab and the stab bases with a F-2B through F-8B. Inspect all joints for a good fit
small fillet of 30-minute epoxy. For additional and make adjustments where necessary.
strength, mix in milled glass fibers.

❏ 4. Once you are satisfied with the fit of all the

parts, permanently glue everything except for F-1B
into position.

❏ 2. Test fit your servos in the die-cut 1/8" plywood

servo tray. If necessary, make adjustments to the tray
so your servos will fit. Glue the two doublers to the
bottom of the servo tray for the servo screws. Drill a
5/16" hole through the punchmarks in the laser-cut 1/8"
ply former F-4C, then glue it to the front of F-4B so the
holes align. Remove glue from inside the holes before ❏ 5. Cut elevator and rudder pushrod exit slots in the
it hardens. aft end of the fuse sheeting. Hint: Use a 3/16" brass ❏ 8. Glue F-1B and F-9B through F-12B to the main
tube sharpened on the end to cut the slots. Slide the fuse stringers and to their respective formers. Glue a
Do you enjoy puzzles? If you do, you’ll enjoy the next tube through the holes in the formers so the slots will small strip of leftover 1/8" plywood across the glue
few steps. be in the correct position and at the correct angle. joint between both sides of F-1A and F-1B.
-22-
 Sheet the bottom of the fuse wing saddle area between F-4 and F-7 (it most likely
will), first allow the water you applied for bending to
fully dry. This may take a few hours or even
overnight. If the sheeting is still bowed outward, cut
that part of sheeting from the fuse and replace it with
a separate piece of leftover 1/16" sheeting.

❏ 3. Sheet the left side of the fuse the same way.

❏ 1. Sheet the right side of the fuse from F-1 to F-9

with a 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa sheet. The aft end of the
sheet must align with the middle of F-9. The same as
you did when you glued the first piece of sheeting to
the top half of the fuse, we recommend you first glue
the sheet to the main stringer, allow the glue to dry,
then wet the sheet and glue it to the rest of the
stringers and formers. Trim the sheeting even with
the lower fuse crutches.

❏ 4. Sheet both sides of the fuse from F-9 to F-11

with one 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet.
❏ 9. Cut ten 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" balsa stringers to the
correct length, then glue them into the notches in the
formers on the bottom of the fuse. Carefully view the ❏ 5. Glue the pushrod guide tubes to F-9 & F-10.
formers and remove any twist as you glue the
stringers to them. The stringers nearest the main
stringer will have to be spliced together at F-5. Trim
the ends of the stringers even with F-1, F-4, F-8 and
F-12.

❏ 10. Sand the formers and stringers, blending them

together.

❏ 2. If you notice that, after it has been glued into ❏ 6. Sheet the bottom of the fuse from F-8 to F-11
place, the sheeting bows noticeably outward in the with two 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets.
-23-
 Mount the tail gear across the two forward holes in the plate. Temporarily
mount the tail gear mount to the tail gear mount plate
with two #2 x 3/8" screws (you can see the assembly
in the photo at step 6).

❏ 7. Sheet the rest of the fuse bottom from F-4 to

F-1 with 1/16" sheeting left over from the preceding
steps. Do this in three strips to distribute the ❏ 1. Cut the aft alignment post off the nylon tail
compound bending that will be required of each sheet. gear bracket. ❏ 4. Use a tissue dampened with denatured alcohol
or a similar solvent to remove the oil coating from
one of the .074" X 36" pushrod wires. Cut twelve 3/8"
long bushings from the 6" white inner pushrod tube,
then slide them onto the wire and space them as
shown on the tail gear pushrod on the fuse plan.
Make sure you position the bushings at the ends of
the wire so they will not protrude from the rudder
guide tube, or the controls could become jammed
during flight. If the bushings slide onto the wires
easily, secure them with a drop of thin CA. Allow the
CA to fully harden before proceeding. If the bushings
are impossible to slide on, cut them to a shorter
length to provide less resistance.

❏ 8. Sheet the last section of the bottom of the fuse ❏ 2. Use pliers to flatten 1/4" of one end of the 1/8"
from F-11 to F-12 using leftover 1/16" balsa sheeting. x 5/8" brass tube. Slide the tube onto the tail gear
wire and place the assembly over the top view of the
❏ 9. Sand the fuse sheeting even with F-1, F-8 and plan to make sure it is the correct length. Silver
F-12. solder the brass tube to the tail gear wire. Drill a
1/16" hole through the end of the brass tube where
shown on the plan. From now on this portion of the
tail gear wire will be referred to as the steering arm.

❏ 3. Drill a 1/16" hole through the two front ❏ 5. Slide the pushrod wire with the bushings on it
punchmarks and a 1/8" hole through the aft into the rudder pushrod guide tube on the left side of
punchmark in the die-cut 1/8" plywood tail gear the fuselage. Place a straightedge on the fuse and
mount plate. Make a 1/8" x 1/4" x 3/4" doubler for align it with the wire. Use a ballpoint pen to mark a
the screws that hold the tail gear mount and glue it line along the straightedge.
-24-
Refer to this photo for the following three steps. ❏ 13. Pop off the aft fuse bottom block that you tack
glued earlier. Permanently mount the tail gear mount
❏ 6. Thread a nylon dual-ended ball link onto the to the tail gear mount plate with two #2 x 3/8" screws.
wire pushrod, then snap in a threaded ball. Reinsert ❏ 11. Permanently glue the 3/8" x 2" x 4-3/4" Add a few drops of CA so the screws will never
the pushrod into the guide tube. Neatly cut an exit forward fuse bottom block to F-12 and the aft fuse loosen. Add a drop of thread locking cement to the
slot in the fuse sheeting to accommodate the side blocks. Tack glue the 3/8" x 1-3/8" x 4" x aft set screw that holds the wheel collar. Center the
steering arm. The center of the slot should be 3/16" fuse bottom block to the aft fuse side blocks so it steering arm, height-wise, in the slot, then tighten
below the line you drew on the fuse sheeting. can be removed after it is shaped. After the fuse the set screw. Add a drop of household oil to the tail
bottom has been final shaped, the aft fuse bottom gear wire where it enters the nylon bearing tube (so
❏ 7. Without using any glue, position the tail gear block will be removed for installation of the tail gear. any glue that gets into the area will not adhere and
mounting plate on the fuse. Temporarily mount the Glue a strip of leftover balsa into the groove on the bind the steering).
threaded ball (that you snapped into the ball link on main stringer on both sides of the fuse.
the pushrod) to the steering arm with an 0-80 nut.

❏ 8. Move the pushrod back and forth to see if the

slot is long enough for the steering arm. Lengthen
the exit slot if necessary.

❏ 9. Remove the tail gear mount from the tail gear

mounting plate. Permanently glue the mount plate to
the main stringers and F-12. Glue a couple of
leftover 1/8" balsa strips to the main stringers behind
the tail gear mount plate to take up the empty space.

❏ 12. Remove the tail gear pushrod. Sand the guide

tubes on both sides of the fuse even with the fuse ❏ 14. Cut the aft fuse bottom block into two pieces. Cut
❏ 10. Glue both shaped 1/4" balsa aft fuse side blocks sides. Use a razor plane or a carving knife followed a half-round hole in each half that aligns with the tail
to F-12 and the bottom of the tail gear mount plate. by sanding to shape the blocks to match the fuse. gear wire. Permanently glue the blocks into position.
-25-
❏ 15. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa fin TE to the fin TE the blocks to the rudder core, then shape them to
spar. Sand the fin TE to blend in with the fin and the match the rudder core, but do not round them yet.
bottom of the fuse.
❏ 4. Cut the rudder LE from the 1/4" x 7/8" x 12"
Now the fuse is far enough along that the rudder can be balsa stick, then tack glue it to the TE of the fin.
built. For a perfect match, it’s built directly onto the fin.
❏ 5. Securely glue the rudder core and the tip and
base blocks to the rudder LE that is tack glued to the
Build the rudder fin. Be certain the rudder is centered. Be careful not
to inadvertently glue the rudder to the fin. Hint: Use
a rubber band to hold the rudder to the fin while you
center it up for gluing it into position.

❏ 8. Carefully break the rudder free from the fin. Cut

the rudder hinge blocks from strips of leftover 1/8"
balsa and glue them to both sides of the rudder core.
The same as you did for the elevators, draw a
centerline on the rudder LE and the fin TE and cut
slots for the hinges. Bevel the LE of the rudder and
round the balance tab to clear the fin. Test fit the
❏ 1. Glue together both die-cut 1/8" balsa parts of rudder to the fin. Make certain you can achieve 1-1/4"
the rudder core. of right and left control throw.

❏ 2. Place the rudder core over the rudder plan. Use While we’re working on the rudder and the back of
a ballpoint pen to mark the locations of the rudder the fuse, let’s go ahead and mount the control horns.
ribs on both sides of the rudder core. Do the rudder first.
❏ 6. Start with a razor plane followed with a bar
sander to carefully blend the rudder tip blocks to the
Refer to this photo for the following three steps. fin, then round the fin tip and rudder tip to match
each other. Round the rudder base blocks to match
the bottom of the fuse.

❏ 9. Install the tail gear pushrod and temporarily

connect it to the steering arm on the tail gear the
same as you did before. Connect the rudder to the
❏ 3. Make both rudder tip blocks from the 1/4" x 1- ❏ 7. Cut the rudder ribs from the 3/32" x 5/16" x 30" steering arm using the hardware shown on the plan
7/8" x 6" balsa sheet and make both rudder base balsa stick, then glue them to the rudder. Shape the and in the photo. Use silver solder to join the .074" x
blocks from the 3/8" x 2-1/8" x 7" balsa sheet. Glue ribs to match the rudder. 4" pushrod to the threaded coupler.
-26-
❏ 10. Adjust the metal clevis so the rudder will be Finish the turtle deck sander to shape the block to match the outline you
centered when the tail gear is centered. drew on the front. The block blends to the fuse in the
rear. It’s a little tricky to carve, because the shape of
the fuse changes angles at the base of the block as
shown in the sketch. Don’t final shape the forward
turtle deck block until you fit it to the canopy in the
following steps.

❏ 1. Glue together both shaped 1-1/2" balsa

forward turtle deck blocks.

❏ 11. After you mount the control horn to the rudder, ❏ 2. Cut the forward turtle deck pattern from the
remove the control horn. Use a pin to poke several plan. Use a ballpoint pen to trace its outline onto the
holes in the balsa in the area of the control horn. forward turtle deck block. Draw a centerline down the
Apply a few drops of thin CA to the screw holes and top of the block as well.
to the area of the pinholes to harden the balsa for the
control horn. ❏ 4. Use curved-tip scissors to trim the molded ABS
machine gun cover along the molded-in cutlines. The
❏ 12. The same as you did the tail gear pushrod, cutlines are most easily seen from the inside. True the
prepare the elevator pushrod from a .074" x 36" edges with a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper.
threaded one end pushrod with 3/8" bushings cut Temporarily hold the machine gun cover to the fuse with
from the inner pushrod tube. Connect the pushrod to masking tape. Note that the aft edge of the machine
a nylon clevis and a large nylon control horn. Mount gun cover aligns with the middle of former F-6B.
the control horn to the elevator with two 2-56 x 5/8"
screws and the nylon mount plate on the top of the
elevator (see the elevator cross-section on the plan).

❏ 5. Trim the clear molded canopy along the molded-

❏ 13. Remove the elevator horn. The same as the in cutlines. True the edges with a bar sander and 80-
rudder, poke several holes in the rudder base block grit sandpaper. Test-fit the canopy to the fuse. The
in the area of the horn and apply a few drops of thin front edges of the canopy should join the aft edge of
CA. Sand smooth, then temporarily mount the ❏ 3. Glue the forward turtle deck block to the top of the machine gun cover. Trim both pieces as
elevator horn. the cockpit deck. Use a razor plane followed by a bar necessary for a good fit.
-27-
❏ 6. Trim the bottom edges of the canopy so that it mount for mounting your engine. Remove the engine,
overlaps the fuse by approximately 3/16" to provide then drill four #29 (or 9/64") holes at the marks. Tap 8-
a gluing surface. 32 threads into the holes. Mount the engine to the
mount with four 8-32 x 1" screws and washers.
Remove the engine mount from the firewall.

❏ 6. If you have your fuel tank on hand, drill 1/4" (or

15/64" for a perfect fit) holes through the firewall to
pass the fuel tubing. If you don’t have your tank yet
or plan a mounting method other than that shown in
the manual, you may wait until later to drill the holes.

❏ 3. Cut a 2-3/4" long forward tank mount tab from ❏ 7. Test fit, then glue the firewall to the fuse with 30-
❏ 7. Once you have achieved a good fit between the the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood stick. Save the minute epoxy. Add Great Planes Milled Glass Fibers
canopy and the fuse and between the canopy and remainder of this basswood stick for the servo hatch for additional strength. Make certain the firewall is
the machine gun cover, finish shaping the forward rails in the wing. Glue the tab to the back of the oriented correctly, so the engine will be mounted as
turtle deck block to fit the canopy. Use balsa filler to firewall 1/8" above the bottom edge. you intended (inverted if you’ve followed the
blend the turtle deck block to the fuse at the seam instructions and plan).
where they join. ❏ 4. Mount the Great Planes .60-1.20 Adjustable
Engine Mount to the firewall with four 8-32 x 1-1/4" That’s about all that can be done on the fuse until we
socket head cap screws and #8 lock washers and have a wing, so...let’s build the wing.
Mount the engine flat washers (note that the engine is mounted
inverted). Leave the screws loose enough to slide
❏ 1. Use thick CA or epoxy to glue together the die- the halves of the mount in and out. Adjust the mount
cut 1/8" plywood pieces FW-1, FW-2 and FW-3 that so it fits your engine, then tighten the screws and
make up the firewall. If the individual pieces are temporarily clamp the engine to the mount with the
twisted, clamp them to a flat table or piece of wood back plate of a 3" spinner 6-1/4" from the firewall.
covered with wax paper. Be certain they stay in Note: Some spinners have a flat back plate and
alignment. If the pieces are twisted, simply clamping some spinners have an in-set back plate. Take this BUILD THE WING
them together may not cancel the twist. into account when mounting your engine. It may be a
good idea to actually have your spinner back plate Preparation
mounted on your engine for this step.
Reminder: If you’re installing retracts, take the air
lines out of the package and hang them somewhere
in your workshop. This will straighten the lines and
make them easier to install when it’s time.

Each wing panel is built right-side up over the wing

panel plan. The manual shows photos of the right
wing panel, so start building the right wing panel first.
❏ 2. Drill four 7/32" holes through the punchmarks in
the firewall. Use a hammer to lightly tap four 8-32 ❏ ❏ 1. Cut the right (or left, if this is your second
blind nuts into the holes in the back of the firewall. wing panel) wing plan from the wing plan sheet and
Permanently glue the blind nuts into the firewall with ❏ 5. Use a Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator place it over your building board. Cover the plan with
a few drops of thin CA. (GPMR8130) to mark the locations of the holes in the Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.
-28-
 Perform steps R5 through R8 only if you are W-1, W-2 and W-3. The holes should be located near
Perform steps F2 through F4 only if you are
building your wing with RETRACTABLE landing the top of the ribs and the aft edge of the holes
building your wing with FIXED landing gear.
gear. An “R” placed in front of each step notes should be located 1/16" forward of the top and
An “F” placed in front of each step notes that
that it is for RETRACTABLE landing gear ONLY. bottom main spars as shown in the sketch. The holes
it is for FIXED landing gear ONLY.
in both W-1’s should align with each other.
❏ 9. Glue one of the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib
doublers W-1A to one side of the die-cut 3/32" balsa
rib W-1. Glue the other W-1A to the other side of the
other W-1. Be certain you are making a right and a
left. If you’re installing retracts, drill the holes through
the doublers for the air lines.

❏ ❏ F2. Use thick CA or epoxy to glue two die- ❏ ❏ R5. Use thick CA or epoxy to glue two die-cut
1/16" plywood rib doublers W-4AR to both sides of
cut 1/16" plywood rib doublers W-4AF to both
sides of the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing rib W-4.
the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing rib W-4. Glue two die- ❏ 10. Use a hobby knife and a straightedge to lightly
cut 1/16" plywood rib doublers W-5AR to both sides score both W-1’s as shown. When it’s time to join the
Glue two die-cut 1/16" plywood rib doublers W-
of the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing rib W-5. wing panels, this section of balsa will be removed to
5AF to both sides of the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing
accommodate the wing joiners.
rib W-5.
❏ ❏ R6. Use a hobby knife to remove the shaded
portion of balsa shown in the photo.
❏ ❏ F3. Use a hobby knife to remove the shaded
portion of balsa shown in the photo.
❏ R7. Repeat the previous two steps to make Perform this step only if you are building flaps.
another set of ribs for the other wing panel.
❏ F4. Repeat the previous two steps to make
another set of ribs for the other wing panel.

❏ 11. Use a straightedge to cut partway through ribs

W-3 through W-6 (and W-6B) from the aft notch to
❏ R8. Use a 5/32" brass tube sharpened on the end the tip of the rib. This section of rib will be removed
to cut two holes for the air lines in each set of ribs when it’s time to build the flaps.
-29-
Frame the wing panel insert T-pins through the spar web to hold the bottom Refer to this photo for the following two steps.
spar and the spar web flat on the building board. Insert
Refer to this photo for the following two steps. T-pins through the TE spar (or use leftover rib jigs) to
hold the TE spar to the building board.

❏ ❏ 1. Without using any glue until instructed to ❏ ❏ 6. Insert strips of leftover 1/8" x 1/4" balsa
do so, join ribs W-2 through W-9 to the die-cut 1/8" between the top and bottom main spars and rib W-1.
balsa spar web. Join the 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" basswood These will help support W-1 when a portion of it is
top and bottom main spars, followed by the die-cut removed to accommodate the spar joiners.
1/8" balsa outer TE spar and the die-cut 1/8" balsa
aileron spar. ❏ ❏ 7. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood dihedral gauge
to hold W-1 at the correct angle, then glue it into
position. Don’t glue W-1 to the spar web. Just glue it
❏ ❏ 2. Join ribs W-10 and W-1 to the assembly. Make to the leftovers you glued in, in the above step and to
certain the ends of the top and bottom spars extend ❏ ❏ 4. Join the die-cut 1/8" balsa inner TE spar to the inner TE spar.
beyond W-1, so they can be trimmed flush later. the assembly and hold it down with jig sticks pinned
to the building board.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

Now it’s time to glue!

❏ ❏ 5. Be sure that all the parts align with their

location on the plan, that the ribs are fully seated into
the notches of the outer TE spar and that the TE spar
is fully contacting the plan. Glue the spar web to the
top and bottom spars and to all ribs except W-1.
Glue the ribs to the outer TE spar and to the aileron
spar. Use a small builder’s square to make certain tip ❏ ❏ 8. Cut the shaped 30" balsa leading edge to
rib W-10 is perpendicular to the building board (this the correct length to fit the wing from W-3 to W-10 as
❏ ❏ 3. Place the assembly over the plan. Making will align the wing tip blocks with the wing when it’s shown on the plan. Glue the LE, centered height-
certain the parts are accurately aligned over the plan, time to glue them on). wise, to the fronts of the ribs.
-30-
❏ ❏ 9. Cut the remainder of the shaped LE to the the top spar. The grain direction is parallel with the grain is parallel with the outer TE spar. You’ll have to
correct length, then glue it to ribs 2 and 3. LE. The gap between the front of the skin and the LE trim a piece from the trailing edge of the sheet near
between ribs 1 and 3 (as seen in the following photo) the tip, then glue it back onto the other end of the
❏ ❏ 10. Cut the 1/2" x 1-1/4" x 7" center LE into two will be filled in later. sheet to make it wide enough. The aft skin ends in
3-1/2" pieces. Use the dihedral gauge to mark the the middle of the outer TE spar between rib W-6B
angle on one end of the center LE to match the angle ❏ ❏ 15. Take out T-pins that you will not be able to and rib W-2. This will create a “ledge” to support the
of W-1. Cut the center LE at the line you marked and get to after the sheeting is glued down. flap sheeting that will be added later. Glue the aft
glue the center LE to the wing. wing skin into position. Do not glue the sheeting to
the inner TE spar and to rib 2 aft of the inner TE spar
(see the following photo).

❏ ❏ 16. Glue the forward wing skin into position. Our

preferred method is to first apply aliphatic resin to the
ribs, then to glue the sheet to the LE with thin CA.
Lay weights on top of the sheeting to hold it to the
ribs, then glue it to the main spar with thin CA.
❏ ❏ 11. Add the die-cut 3/32" balsa rib tips W-2C,
W-6B and W-7B to the outer TE spar. While gluing
the ribs into position, use a straightedge to align ❏ ❏ 18. Cut the sheeting from the wing from the
them with the other ribs on the wing. middle of the inner TE spar and the middle of rib W-
2 aft of the inner TE spar. This will create a ledge to
❏ ❏ 12. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to support the sheeting that will be added after the wing
sand the tops of the ribs and spars even. panels are joined.

Now the wing is ready for the top sheeting. But first,
you have to make the wing skins.

❏ 13. Glue together the wing skins the same as you

did the stab and fin skins. Start by making eight 6" x
30" balsa sheets from sixteen 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa
sheets. (You can make all the skins in an assembly-
line fashion now, or make them as you need them.)

❏ ❏ 14. The top and bottom of both wing halves will

be sheeted with two of the 6" x 30" balsa sheets you
just made. The seam between the two pieces will be ❏ ❏ 19. Make an aileron skin from 1/16" sheeting left
centered over the main spars. Make a forward wing over from the top wing skins and glue it into position.
skin for the top of the wing by trimming one of the 6" ❏ ❏ 17. Make an aft wing skin for the top of the
x 30" sheets to fit between the LE and the middle of wing by trimming another 6" x 30" sheet to fit. The Sorry, the flap skin won’t be so simple...but it’s worth it.
-31-
 certain that the TE of the skin (the end with the 1/32" space between the forward skin and the LE. Look for
ply strip) aligns with the TE of the flap on the plan. glue joints you’ve missed, or ones that could use a
little extra glue and reinforce them with CA. Apply a
bead of medium or thick CA where the sheeting
meets the LE inside the wing.

❏ ❏ 26. Cut a 1/8" x 3/16" x 30" balsa stick to the same

length as the top flap skin, then glue it to the ply side
Refer to this sketch for the following seven steps. along the TE as shown in the sketch. Later, this will be
sanded to match the tapering angle of the wing.
❏ ❏ 20. Cut the 1/32" x 1" x 16" plywood sheet into
two 1/2" strips.
❏ ❏ 29. Trim the ends of the main spars close to the
❏ ❏ 21. Cut a 1/2" x 16" strip and a 2-1/4" x 16" strip ribs on both ends of the wing. Follow-up with a bar
from a 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet. sander with 80-grit sandpaper to sand the spars and
sheeting even with the ends of the wing. If you would
❏ ❏ 22. Laminate the 1/2" balsa strip to one of the like to trim the top of the LE even with the sheeting,
1/2" ply strips over a flat surface. You now have a you may do so at this time, but do not final shape the
3/32" x 1/2" x 16" ply/balsa strip. LE until instructed to do so after the wing is sheeted
and both panels are joined. Trim the tabs off the
❏ ❏ 23. With the ply side down, glue one edge of the bottom of the outer and inner TE spars. Sand the
ply/balsa strip to the edge of the 2-1/4" balsa strip. bottoms of the ribs even with the bottoms of the
This is now the top flap skin. ❏ ❏ 27. Glue the top flap skin to the top of the wing. spars to prepare the wing for the bottom sheeting.
When sanding the bottom of the wing, use the ends
❏ ❏ 24. Sand the balsa side of the 1/2" x 3/32" portion of the ribs to guide your bar sander as you bevel the
of the top flap skin to the same thickness as the rest of top aileron skins down to 1/32" at the TE as shown in
of the top flap skin (which is 1/16" thick). the sketch.

❏ ❏ 25. Trim the top flap skin to fit the wing from the ❏ ❏ 28. Remove the wing panel from the building
middle of W-2 to W-6B. The ply side goes down. Make board. Use leftover 1/16" balsa sheeting to fill in the
-32-
Fit the landing gear ❏ ❏ R4. Extend the landing gear. Adjust the strut so you ❏ ❏ R9. Test mount the landing gear to the rails with
can barely detect any tow-in the wheel—about one- #6 x 1/2" screws. Retract and extend the gear to
Perform steps R1 through R12 only if installing degree of tow-in is desirable to aid ground handling. make sure the wheel does not contact the top
retractable landing gear. If installing fixed gear, sheeting and that the gear is able to fully lock in the
skip to step F13. ❏ ❏ R5. Retract the gear into the wing. Make sure retracted position. Make certain you will be able to
the rails are correctly installed and are at the correct route the air lines after the bottom sheeting is glued
angle. There must be clearance between the wheel into position. Remove the landing gear.
Refer to this photo for the following three steps. and the top wing sheeting when the gear is in the
retracted position and fully locked. If this is your
second time through and you’re on the left wing
panel, make sure that the left landing gear is
mounted at the same angle as the right landing gear.

❏ ❏ R6. Once you have achieved a good fit of the

wheels in the wing, Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the
rails into position. Do not build up large fillets of glue
at this time.

❏ ❏ R7. After the epoxy on the rails has fully

hardened, reposition the gear on the rails as
described earlier. Mark the location of the mounting
holes, then drill 3/32" holes in the rails for #6 x 1/2" ❏ ❏ R10. Use epoxy thinned with alcohol or
❏ ❏ R1. Test fit the 1/4" plywood forward and aft screws (not included). finishing resin to apply light-weight glass cloth to the
landing gear rails in the slots in ribs W-4 and W-5. inside of the top wing sheeting between ribs W-1
If necessary, make adjustments to the notches or through W-4. This will strengthen the exposed
remove glue bumps so the rails fit well. sheeting inside the wing and will seal the wood grain
for painting later on.
❏ ❏ R2. Mount a 3-3/4" wheel to your landing gear.
This model was designed to use CJM (Century Jet
Retracts) Focke-Wulf landing gear with Williams
Bros. #143 3-3/4" Smooth Contour Wheels
(WBRQ1143). These wheels have a narrow cross-
section allowing the gear to fully lock in the retracted
position. “Fatter” wheels will contact the top wing
sheeting before the gear is fully retracted. Enlarge
the hole in the wheels for the landing gear axle with
a #12 drill bit.
❏ ❏ R8. Test fit, then use 30-minute epoxy to glue
the die-cut 1/8" plywood forward and aft landing
❏ ❏ R3. Temporarily remove the partially die-cut gear webs into position. When you position the
section of ribs W-3 & W-4 to accommodate the webs, be certain they are not pushing up against the ❏ ❏ R11. Replace the section of rib W-2 you
landing gear and the wheel for test fitting. Place the inside of the top wing sheeting, thereby making a temporarily removed for retracting the gear. Just tack
landing gear on the rails where shown on the plan bump in the top of the wing. Note that the forward glue it into place. It will be removed after the bottom
(the edge of the aluminum body is 13/32" from the web should not extend below the forward rail. of the wing is sheeted, but will support the sheeting
1/16" ply rib doubler). Otherwise, it will interfere with part of the retract. in the meantime.
-33-
 ❏ ❏ F18. Chamfer the opening of the hole to
accommodate the bend in the landing gear wire.
Test fit one of the 3/16" landing gear wires into
the landing gear mount and torque block.

❏ ❏ F19. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" plywood fixed

landing gear plate to the landing gear wire and
the grooved mount. If necessary, lengthen the slot
in the gear plate, so it can be centered,
lengthwise, on the grooved mount.

❏ ❏ F15. Test fit, then use 30-minute epoxy to

glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood forward and aft
❏ ❏ R12. Fill-in the notches in ribs 4 and 5 below the landing gear webs into position. When you
landing gear rails with leftover balsa. Sand the balsa to position the webs, be certain they are not pushing
match the ribs so that it supports the bottom sheeting. up against the inside of the top wing sheeting,
thereby making a bump in the top of the wing.

Perform steps F13 through F25 only if you are Refer to this photo for the following three steps.
building fixed gear. ❏ ❏ F20. Drill six 3/32" holes through the fixed
landing gear plate and the grooved mount where
shown on the plan. Enlarge the holes in the plate
only with a 1/8" drill bit. Mount the plate to the
grooved mount with six #4 x 1/2" screws.

❏ ❏ F16. Use 30-minute epoxy to securely glue the

3/4" x 3/4" x 7/16" maple torque block to one end
❏ ❏ F13. Test fit the 1/4" plywood forward and of the top of the 3" grooved landing gear mount.
aft landing gear rails in the slots in ribs W-4 and
W-5. If necessary, make adjustments to the ❏ ❏ F17. Drill a 3/16" hole through the groove in
notches or remove glue bumps so the rails fit well. the landing gear mount and the torque block 3/8"
from the end. This hole should be perpendicular ❏ ❏ F21. Position the LG assembly between the
to the bottom surface of the landing gear mount LG rails in the wing. Drill six 3/32” holes through
(for the most accuracy, use a drill press if you the LG plate into the rails. Remove the plate and
❏ ❏ F14. Once you have achieved a good fit of the have one, or borrow a friend’s). For easier enlarge the holes in the plate only with a 5/32”
rails, use 30-minute epoxy to glue them into position. installation of the landing gear, you could enlarge drill bit. Temporarily mount the assembly to the
Do not build up large fillets of glue at this time. the hole with a #10 drill bit. wing with six #6 x 1/2” screws.

-34-
 Finish the bottom of the wing Join the wing panels

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 1. Cut the center out of rib W-1 on both wing

❏ ❏ F22. Glue pieces of leftover 1/4" x 1/4" or panels. Make a half-round groove in the center LE
3/16" x 3/16" balsa around the fixed LG plate (but block in alignment with the slot in W-1 to
not to it) to support the sheeting after an opening accommodate the wing dowel.
is cut for the plate. Remove the plate, then sand ❏ ❏ 1. Cut three 1" long flap hinge blocks (only if
the sticks even with the rest of the ribs . you are building flaps) and three 1-1/2" long
aileron hinge blocks from the 1/2" x 1/2" x 6" balsa
sticks. Glue the hinge blocks into position. Note that
the aileron hinge blocks are centered, height-wise,
on the outer TE spar and that the flap hinge blocks
are even with the bottom of the outer TE spar.
❏ ❏ F23. Take out all the screws and
disassemble the landing gear assembly. Add a
few drops of thin CA to the holes in the LG rails in ❏ 2. Test fit both die-cut 1/8" plywood forward wing
the wing and to the holes in the grooved landing ❏ ❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood control horn joiners in both halves of the wing. Make adjustments
gear mount. plate into the notches of the aileron LE spar and rib 8. where necessary so the joiners fit half-way.

❏ ❏ 3. Cut the aileron servo hatch rails from the

❏ ❏ F24. Enlarge the hole in the wheels with a remainder of the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood stick you
or #9 (or 13/64") drill so they will fit on the landing used for the forward tank mount tab. If you are
gear wires. building flaps, cut the flap servo hatch rails from
the same stick. Keep the rest of the stick for the aft
tank mount tab. Glue the rails into position.

❏ ❏ Test fit the wheel to the landing gear with a

3/16” wheel collar on both sides. File flat spots
Return to page 28 and repeat the process for
where the set screws of the wheel collars lock
onto the gear.
building the left wing panel. Don’t forget to build ❏ 3. Without using glue, test join the wing halves with
over the left wing plan! the forward joiners. Lay one of the panels flat on the
-35-
workbench. Measure the distance from the tip of the
other panel down to the workbench. The distance
should be 6-11/16", plus or minus 1/8", as measured
from the bottom main spar at rib 12. If necessary, make
adjustments so this measurement can be achieved.

❏ 4. Once the correct dihedral has been confirmed,

and any other adjustments have been made for a
good fit, permanently join both wing panels with 30-
minute epoxy. Make certain the epoxy you are using
provides enough working time to join all the parts
and position your clamps. For the strongest bond,
coat all contacting surfaces with epoxy (both sides of
the spar web and the correct side of the forward wing ❏ 8. Test fit the wing bolt plate to the wing. Trim the
joiners). Make certain the root rib W-1 of the panels ends as necessary for a good fit. Use 30-minute
are in alignment. epoxy to glue the wing bolt plate to the aft wing
joiner. Glue ribs W-1B to the assembly.

❏ 7. Drill #7 (or 13/64") holes through the 1/8" x

1-1/4" x 7" plywood wing bolt plate where shown on Sheet the bottom of the wing
the plan. Trim one edge of the wing bolt plate as
shown in the sketch. This will now be the front. Cut If you haven’t done so already, make four 6" x 30"
partway through both sides of the center of the wing wing skins from eight 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets.
bolt plate. Bend the wing bolt plate to the same angle
as the wing, trying not to break it. If you do, glue it ❏ 1. Plan the routing of the aileron and flap servo
together at the same angle as the aft wing joiner. cords. They can be installed in the wing after the
model is finished, though some may prefer to do it
❏ 5. Use fuelproof paint or epoxy thinned with now. Cut a hole in rib 1 so the cords can be
alcohol to coat and fuelproof the landing gear area. connected inside the wing, then passed through a
If you prefer to do this at a later time, make sure it is hole cut in the top sheeting.
done before the covering is applied, otherwise the
paint may soak through the top sheeting and blemish ❏ 2. With the wing upside-down on a stand or a
iron-on coverings. You can use brush-on paint, but cradle, trim two of the 6" x 30" sheets to make the
you will have the most uniform coverage and the best forward skins for both sides of the bottom of the
results if you apply the paint with an airbrush. Mix a wing. Do not glue the skins to the wing yet.
drop or two of blue to an ounce of yellow to get the
light shade of green resembling chromate green ❏ 3. Use the other two 6" x 30" balsa sheets to make
used to protect aluminum in aircraft. the aft skins. For now, cut the aft skins oversize to
allow for trimming and positioning after the forward
❏ 6. Test fit, then glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood aft wing skins have been glued into position.
joiner and the die-cut 1/8" plywood ribs W-2B to the This photo gives you an idea of how to clamp the
wing (these parts can be seen in following photos). wing bolt plate into position. ❏ 4. Sand the skins flat, smooth and even.
-36-
 aft skins to fit between the forward skins and the Build the wing tips
outer TE spar. The aft edge of the skins should
extend beyond the outer TE spar by approximately Refer to this photo for the following two steps.
3/32" to allow for trimming later. Glue the aft skins
into position. Use weights and/or T-pins to hold the
sheeting down until the glue dries.

❏ 5. Make the five wing sheeting cradles from the

die-cut 1/8" plywood parts as shown.
❏ 6. Place the wing upside-down on the cradles.
Position the highest cradle over the centerline of the
wing with the tab against the end of the W-1 ribs.
Position the next highest cradles over rib 6. Position
the shortest cradles over rib W-10. Place weights on ❏ ❏ 1. Sand the ends of the wing sheeting even with
the wing to hold it to the cradles. It may take more the ends of the wing. Glue two of the 3/4" shaped
weights out toward the tips near the TE to lock-in the balsa wing tips together. Glue the wing tip to one
washout built into the wing. Note: If you find it end of the wing. Make sure the aft end of the wing tip
❏ 9. Make the bottom aileron skins from leftover is even with (or extends slightly beyond) the outer TE
helpful, you could tack-glue the cradles to the top
1/16" balsa sheeting. Bevel the aft edge of the skins spar (so it can be sanded even later).
wing sheeting.
the same as the top skins (with the TE thinned-down
to 1/32"). Glue the bottom aileron skins to the wing
and to the top skins. ❏ ❏ 2. Glue the shaped 3/4" balsa aileron tip to the
end of the aileron.

❏ 7. Glue both forward skins to the bottom of the

wing. Hold the skins down with T-pins and/or weights.

❏ 10. After the glue dries, remove the weights and T-

pins and take the wing off the cradles. Finish
sheeting the open area between the forward skin ❏ ❏ 3. Starting with a razor plane and/or a carving
and the LE with leftover 1/16" balsa. Trim the bottom knife, then finishing with a bar sander and 80-grit
❏ 8. Now that the forward skins are glued into of the LE even with the bottom sheeting, but do not sandpaper, shape the tips to match the wing, but do
position, the aft skins can be trimmed to fit. Trim the final shape the LE yet. not round them yet.
-37-
 middle of rib W-2C. Glue both skins into position.
Sand the skins and the 1/8" x 3/16" balsa strips on
the underside of the top flap skins even with the
bottom of the wing.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ ❏ 4. Round the wing tip and aileron tip.

❏ 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 to build the other

wing tip.
❏ ❏ 3. Finish cutting the rest of the way through ribs
W-3 through W-6B (where you cut partway through
Build the flaps during preparation) and remove that portion of the ribs.

We’ll show you the right flap... ❏ ❏ 4. Trim the bottom wing sheeting even with the
outer TE spar in the flap area.
❏ ❏ 1. Cut the right aileron from the wing. True up the
outer TE spar in the aileron area by sanding the ❏ ❏ 5. Mark the locations of the flap ribs on the die- ❏ ❏ 7. Cut the flap ribs from a 3/32" x 1/4" x 30"
remainders of the ribs and the top and bottom sheeting. cut 1/16" balsa bottom flap skins where shown on balsa stick. Cut the flap hinge blocks and the flap
the plan. control horn base from the remainder of the 1/4" x
If you are building working flaps, go to step 3. If you 7/16" x 24" balsa stick you used for the flap LE. Glue
are not building working flaps, perform step 2, then Note: The flap must be constructed over a flat the flap ribs, the hinge blocks and the control horn
go to Finsh building the ailerons on page 39. surface so it fits the wing. base to the flap. Use a bar sander with 80-grit
sandpaper to bevel the ribs, the TE of the skin and
the flap LE as shown in the sketch.

❏ ❏ 2. Cut the bottom flap skins from a 1/16" x 3" ❏ ❏ 6. Cut the flap LE from a 1/4" x 7/16" x 24" balsa ❏ ❏ 8. Glue the die-cut 1/32" plywood flap frame to
x 30" balsa sheet. The skins extend from rib W-6B to stick and glue it to the top of the bottom flap skin. the flap.
-38-
❏ ❏ 9. Test fit the flap to the wing. With the flap outer TE spar 1/8" above the bottom of the wing for from the leading edge. Use a razor plane, followed by
resting in position, sand the 1/8" x 3/16" balsa strip Great Planes small Pivot Point Hinges GPMQ4001 a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper, to bevel the flap
glued to the underside of the top flap skin even with (not included). It’s okay to angle the drill slightly to from the center of the LE up to the line you drew.
the bottom flap skin. Make other adjustments where clear the top flap skin, as long as the opening of the
necessary for a good fit. Temporarily hold the flap holes remain 1/8" above the bottom of the wing.
skin to the wing with a strip of masking tape while Hint: Use a piece of leftover 1/8" balsa as a gauge
you build the other flap. to align the drill.

❏ 10. Return to step 1 and build the other flap the

same way.

Hinge the flaps

❏ ❏ 7. Reposition the flap to the wing with the

❏ ❏ 3. Drill 7/64" holes through the LE of the flap the hinges. Make certain you can get 1-11/16" of control
same way. Use the 1/8" balsa gauge to make sure throw as described in the back of the manual.
the holes are correctly aligned. Increase the angle of the bevel if necessary.

❏ ❏ 4. Enlarge the openings of the holes to

accommodate the hinge pins, thus allowing the ❏ 8. Drill the holes for the hinges and fit the other
hinges to be inserted half-way in both the flap and flap to the wing the same way.
❏ ❏ 1. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to the wing.
lightly mark lines on the bottom wing sheeting,
noting the location and alignment of the hinges. The ❏ ❏ 5. Test fit the flap to the wing with the hinges.
lines should be perpendicular to the flap LE and the Make certain all the hinges go in all the way. Make
wing TE and centered over the hinge blocks. adjustments if necessary.

Finish building the ailerons

We’ll show you the right aileron first.

❏ ❏ 1. Sand the top and bottom aileron sheeting

and the aileron tip even with the aileron spar. Cut the
aileron LE from the 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick.
Glue the aileron LE to the aileron.

❏ ❏ 2. Using the lines you marked on the bottom of ❏ ❏ 6. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to ❏ ❏ 2. Shape the top and bottom of the LE even
the wing as an alignment cue, drill 7/64" holes in the lightly draw a line across the bottom of the flap 1/4" with the top and bottom of the aileron.
-39-
 Hook up the flaps and ailerons ❏ 2. With the hatch in the wing, drill 1/16" holes
through the punch marks in the hatch and through
the servo rails. Remove the hatch. Enlarge the holes
in the hatch only with a 3/32" drill. Use a Dremel
Note: All the die-cut 1/16" plywood hatches are #178 cutting bit to countersink the holes in the hatch
the same and are interchangeable, except for for the #2 x 3/8" flat head screws.
the left flap hatch, which is noted “LF” on the die
sheet. Reference the plan for the correct
orientation of the hatches and servos.

❏ ❏ 3. Use masking tape to securely tape the

aileron to the wing with the tips in alignment. Shape
the aileron LE in the tip area even with the wing tip
and the aileron tip.

❏ ❏ 4. Remove the aileron. Use the “T-pin and

straightedge” technique to mark centerlines down
the LE of the aileron and the outer TE. Cut the hinge
slots, then test fit the aileron to the wing with the
hinges. Make adjustments where necessary.

❏ 3. Use a straightedge and a new #11 blade to

carefully trim the edges of the opening so there will
be approximately 1/32" clearance all the way around.
Use thin or medium CA to glue the wing sheeting to
the ribs and the rails (remember, we instructed you
earlier not to glue the sheeting to the ribs and rails in
this area). Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes in
the rails and allow to fully dry. Temporarily mount the
hatch with six #2 x 3/8" flat head screws.

❏ ❏ 5. Bevel the LE of the aileron for control throw. ❏ 1. Cut a small hole in the bottom wing sheeting 8"
Make certain you can achieve 11/16" of up and down from where the sheeting meets the right wing tip.
throw as described on page 58 of the manual. Carefully enlarge the opening until you can just fit one
of the die-cut 1/16" plywood hatches. Hint: As you ❏ 4. Mount the other aileron hatch and both flap
“zero-in” on the opening, use the hatch itself as a hatches to the wing the same way. Make certain the
❏ 6. Return to step 1 and build the other aileron. template for trimming the edges of the balsa sheeting. hatches are positioned as shown on the wing plan.
-40-
 apply an additional coat. You will see that in between balsa inside the flap where the aft #2 x 3/8" screw
coats, most or all of the epoxy will have soaked in, goes through the bottom flap skin. The same as the
leaving little behind for gluing. Do this procedure a elevators and rudder, use a T-pin to poke several
few times until a thick coat of epoxy remains. holes in the bottom flap skin where the flap control
horn mounts to the flap. Harden the area by adding
❏ 7. Mount the left aileron servo and both flap a few drops of thin CA to the holes. Allow the CA to
servos to the hatches the same way. dry, then sand smooth. Note that the flap control
horn is mounted “backwards.”

Finish the wing

❏ 5. This will show the right aileron, so refer to the

right aileron servo and hatch on the wing plan for the
correct orientation of the servo. Use the screws that
came with your servo to mount the aileron servo to
two 5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8" basswood servo mount
blocks. There should be an approximately 1/32"
clearance between the blocks and the servo, and
between the servo and the hatch. Hint: Use leftover
1/32" plywood or cardstock as shims under the servo ❏ 8. Install a long servo arm on the right aileron
and between the servo and the blocks when drilling servo. Mount the right aileron hatch in the wing.
the holes into the blocks. Connect the servo to the aileron with the hardware
shown on the plan. Add a few drops of thin CA to the
holes in the aileron and the horn mount plate for the ❏ 1. Use leftover 1/16" balsa to sheet the bottom of
#2 x 3/8" screws. the center section of the wing between the flaps. Use
the holes in the wing bolt plate as a guide to cut
❏ 9. Connect the left aileron servo to the left aileron holes in the bottom sheeting.
the same way.

❏ 6. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the servo mount

blocks to the right aileron hatch. Make certain the
servo is positioned so the servo arm will be
centered and aligned with the slot in the hatch.
Note: The basswood servo mount blocks are porous
and rapidly absorb epoxy. After applying the first coat ❏ 10. Make the pushrods and connect the flap
of epoxy to the mount blocks, wait a few minutes and servos to the flaps. Glue a small block of leftover ❏ 2. Sheet the top of the center section of the wing.
-41-
Perform steps R3 through R6 only if installing and the landing gear strut fit into the wing. Remove
retractable landing gear. If installing fixed gear, the portion of rib W-2 that you temporarily tack-glued
skip to step F7. back into position. Note: The hole in the wing for the
wheel won’t be circular, but will be oval shaped due
to the angle at which the wheel fits into the wing.
Allow approximately 3/16" to 1/4" clearance between
the wheel and the aft edge of the opening (in case
the strut gets bent slightly during a rough landing).

❏ R5. Glue leftover 1/16" balsa or 1/32" plywood (not

included) to the inside of the bottom sheeting around
the wheel opening. The grain should be perpendicular ❏ F8. Temporarily mount the gear assembly to the
❏ R3. The same as you did for the hatches, start by to the grain of the bottom sheeting. This will strengthen wing. If necessary, trim the edges of the opening
cutting a small hole, then enlarging it to the sheeting around the edges of the opening, which is so the gear will fit.
accommodate the right landing gear mount. The typically rather delicate. If you prefer, you could
cutout will have to be slightly over-size due to the substitute 1/32" plywood (not included). ❏ F9. Fit the landing gear in the other wing panel
extra clearance required when inserting the gear. the same way.
Mount the right landing gear in the wing.
❏ R6. Cut the opening for the gear in the other wing
panel the same way.
❏ 10. If you haven’t done so already, final-sand the
wing rounding the leading edges and tips as shown
on the cross-sections of the plan. If you have to do
much sanding to even any glue joints in the sheeting,
Perform the following three steps ONLY if you
it may be best just to leave the glue joints slightly
are installing fixed landing gear.
uneven rather than over-sanding the sheeting.

❏ F7. The same as you did for the hatches, start

by cutting a small hole, then enlarging it to
❏ R4. Now you know how to do it! Start by cutting a ❏ 11. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 2" wide strip
accommodate the right fixed LG mount plate.
small hole, then gradually enlarge it until the wheel of glass cloth around the center section of the wing.
-42-
 FINAL CONSTRUCTION the fuse sheeting a little further to accommodate the
fillet bases.
Mount the wing to the fuse

❏ 1. Round one end of the 5/16" x 5" wing dowel. Test ❏ 7. With the fillet bases taped to the fuse and the
fit the rounded end into the hole in former F-4. If wing in position, place the fuse upside-down in a
necessary, sand the end of the dowel so it snugly fits into building cradle. Place weights on the wing to hold it
the hole, yet will not make removal of the wing difficult. to the fuse.
Glue the dowel into the wing with 30-minute epoxy.

❏ 8. Stick a T-pin into the center of the bottom of the

fuse just ahead of the rudder. Center the wing using
❏ 4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue both 1/2" x 7/8" x the same “pin and string” technique we showed you
1-1/4" maple wing bolt blocks and both die-cut 1/8" for centering the stab.
plywood wing bolt block braces to the fuse
crutches where shown on the plan. Hint: Use a
leftover balsa stick to hold the blocks tightly to the ❏ 9. Refer to the Hot Tip below. Using the wing bolt
crutches until the epoxy hardens. plate inside the wing as a guide, drill #7 (or 13/64")
holes through the wing bolt blocks in the fuse.

❏ 2. Trim the fuse sheeting even with the ply

crutches. Glue the 1/2" x 7/8" x 4-1/2" filler block to
former 8B and to the fuse sheeting. Sand the filler ❏ 5. Use the pattern provided on the plan to make
block even with the fuse. two wing fillet bases from the 1/32" x 19" x 4"
plywood strip. Lightly score both sides of the fillet
bases where shown (at the TE of the wing), then
carefully bend the fillets upward. Add a few drops of
medium CA across both sides of the seam and allow
to dry. Don’t worry if the ends break off, just glue Some modelers have difficulty drilling accurate
them back on at the angle shown on the plan. holes in the wing bolt blocks. Here are a few things
you can do to improve your results:

A. Use a #7 (or 13/64") drill or a 3/16" brass tube

sharpened on the end to cut holes through the top
sheeting in alignment with the holes in the wing
bolt plate in the wing.

B. Once the wing is positioned in the fuse as

described in the previous steps, mark the location
❏ 3. Test fit the wing to the fuse. Trim sheeting on of the wing bolt holes on the wing bolt blocks with
both sides of the fuse until the wing is fully contacting ❏ ❏ 6. Tape the fillet bases to the fuse crutches. a piece of wire dipped into some paint.
the 1/8" ply crutches. Position the wing on the fuse. You may have to trim
-43-
C. Remove the wing and see where you made the
❏ 10. Remove the wing from the fuse. Use a 1/4-20 A. Use masking tape to securely hold the elevators
marks. This is where the holes will be drilled.
tap to tap threads in the wing bolt blocks. Enlarge the neutral. Mount the incidence meter to the stab. Make
holes in the wing only with a 17/64" (or 1/4") drill. certain the elevator remains neutral. Use additional
D. If the marks are near the center of the blocks,
masking tape if necessary. Adjust the meter until it
you’re good to go! Reposition the wing and go to
reads +1 degree.
the next step. If the marks are near the edges of
the blocks, there may be an alignment problem.
❏ 11. Harden the threads in the wing bolt blocks by
Realign the wing and try it again.
adding a few drops of thin CA or epoxy and allowing
to fully harden. Retap the threads.
E. Make a drill jig by using a drill press to drill a
#7 (or 13/64") hole through an approximately 1-
1/2" x 2" x 2-1/2" hardwood block. The purpose for
using a drill press is to ensure that the hole in the
❏ 12. Mount the wing to the fuse with the 1/4-20 x 2"
block is perpendicular to the base.
nylon wing bolts. If you prefer, you can cut 3/4" off
the bolts.

To achieve the highest degree of accuracy, some

modelers prefer to measure the wing incidence
during construction, and if necessary, correct it
before finishing the model. If this is your
preference, now is the time to measure the wing
B. Without disturbing the model, remove the
incidence and make adjustments if necessary. If
incidence meter from the stab and mount it to the
adjustments are required, this can be
wing near the fuselage. The wing should also have
accomplished by inserting shims of balsa
+1 degree incidence at the root. Due to washout, the
between the 1/32" ply fillet base and the fuse
wing should have minus 1 degree at both tips (when
sheeting, and between the fuse crutches and the
the ailerons are neutral).
F. Use the drill jig to guide your drill bit when wing, or by removing material from the fuse
drilling through the wing into the wing bolt blocks. sheeting and the crutches. A Great Planes®
Now your wing bolts will accurately align with the AccuPoint™ Laser Incidence Meter (GPMR4020)
bottom of the wing and the wing bolt blocks. is shown in the following illustration.
C. Make adjustments to the wing incidence if necessary.
-44-
Make the wing fillets ❏ 3. Remove the wing and the fillet bases from the
fuse. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy and
❏ 1. Remove the wing from the fuse. Cover the top microballoons. Apply the glue to the fuse crutches
of the center section of the wing with Great Planes and to the fuse sheeting. Reposition the fillet bases
Plan Protector or wax paper to keep glue from and hold them in place with masking tape. Mount the
sticking when you glue the fillet bases to the fuse wing to the fuse. Confirm the wing alignment with the
(with the wing in position). stab. Adjust if necessary. Wipe away excess epoxy
before it hardens.

❏ 4. Use CA to glue the fillet bases, aft of the wing,

to the fuse. Do not disturb the model until the epoxy
has fully hardened.

❏ 7. Use the wing fillet applicator to apply

lightweight, sandable balsa filler to the fuse and the
fillet bases. Note how the fillet has a concave shape.
Do as neat a job as you can to smoothly apply the
filler, thus minimizing sanding that will be required
after it dries.

❏ 5. Trim the ply fillet bases even with the TE of the

wing. Glue strips of leftover balsa to the fillet bases and
to the fuse to strengthen the joint and to take up space,
❏ 2. Bolt the wing back onto the fuse. Stand about reducing the amount of filler that will be required.
six to ten feet behind the model and observe the
distance between both sides of the stab and the
wing. If both distances are equal as shown in the
sketch, then the wing is level (A = A). If the wing is ❏ 8. Bolt the wing to the fuse and place the model
not level, loosen the wing bolt on the “high” side and upside-down in a building stand. Glue leftover 1/16"
slip shims from leftover balsa between the fuse ❏ 6. Remove the wing. Use the pattern provided to balsa to the bottom of the fillet bases blending the
sheeting and the fillet base to bring the wing into make a wing fillet applicator from leftover ABS bottom of the wing to the fuse. Blend the bottom of
alignment with the stab. Glue the balsa shims to the plastic. This will spread the balsa filler while the fillet bases to the fuse with balsa filler. Sand
fuse, but not to the ply fillet bases. simultaneously providing the correct shape. when dry.
-45-
Build the belly pan

❏ 8. Carve the bottom of one of the 1" x 1-1/4" x 3"

balsa belly pan blocks to fit the wing when placed
❏ 5. Glue two pieces of leftover 1/4" x 3/8" balsa to on the forward belly pan former and the wing. Glue
❏ 1. Position the die-cut 1/8" plywood belly pan the bottom wing sheeting and to the stringers over the block into position.
formers BP-1 and BP-3 on the bottom of the wing the wheel wells. This will support the belly pan
up against the fuse where shown on the plan. If sheeting after it is trimmed even with the wheel wells.
necessary, trim the tops of the formers so they are
1/16" shorter than the fuse bottom to accommodate
the 1/16" belly pan sheeting.

❏ 2. Glue BP-1 and BP-3 and the die-cut 1/8" balsa

belly pan spine to the bottom of the wing. Be certain
you don’t inadvertently glue the formers to the fuse,
and be certain to leave a 3/32" gap between BP-3 and
the fuse and a 1/16" gap between BP-1 and the fuse.

❏ 3. Glue BP-2 to the bottom of the wing where ❏ 9. Finish shaping the belly pan block to match the
determined by the notch near the middle of the spine. fuse bottom, the belly pan and the wheel opening.
Trim the belly pan block and the belly pan sheeting
and stringers to reopen the wheel well.

❏ 6. Glue pieces of leftover 3/16" x 3/16" balsa to the

stringers and to the bottom of the wing on both sides
of the wing bolts. This will tie the stringers together
after the holes are cut for the wing bolts.

❏ 7. Sheet one side of the belly pan with a 1/16" x ❏ 10. Trim the belly pan sheeting and stringer as
3" x 30" balsa sheet. The sheet extends from the necessary to accommodate the 9/16" paper wing bolt
❏ 4. Cut the four stringers for the belly pan from two 3/16" center of the belly pan spine to the outer stringer tube. Cut 1" from the tube and use thick or medium CA
x 3/16" x 30" balsa sticks and glue them into position. (and can be seen in following photos). to glue the 1" piece to the belly pan sheeting.
-46-
❏ 11. Sheet the other side of the belly pan and add Assemble the cowl
the paper wing bolt tube and the belly pan block.

❏ 4. Temporarily clamp the 1/2" x 1/2" x 5/8" maple

cowl mount blocks to former W-1 in the “3, 6, 9 &
12" positions as shown on the plan. Cut both die-cut
❏ 1. Use curved-tip scissors to trim the molded ABS 1/4" balsa cowl rings into two halves. Trim the cowl
forward and aft cowl halves along the molded in rings as necessary so they fit between the cowl
cutlines. The cutlines are most easily seen from mount blocks. Glue the cowl rings to F-1.
the inside.
❏ 5. Remove the cowl mount blocks. Sand the cowl
rings even with the fuse sheeting, then round them
as shown on the plan.
❏ 2. Use 150-grit sandpaper to thoroughly sand the
seams all the way around both cowl halves where
they will be glued together.

❏ 12. Blend both sides of the belly pan to the wing

and the fuse with sandable balsa filler. Sand the filler ❏ 6. Slightly round the cowl mount blocks to match the
after it dries. curvature of the cowl. Glue the cowl mount blocks to the
fuse between the cowl rings with 30-minute epoxy.
Note: Be certain the cowl mount blocks are positioned
so the cowl will fit over them. An additional 1/32"
clearance at each cowl mount block should be allowed
❏ 3. Place the forward cowl over the aft cowl and to accommodate the glass cloth that will be added to
glue them together with thin or medium CA. Use only the inside of the cowl later. You don’t want to have to
a small amount of CA accelerator if necessary. Too “stretch” the cowl by forcing it over the cowl mount
much CA accelerator can soften the plastic. blocks if they are spaced too far apart.
-47-
 in the cowl only with a 1/8" bit. Test mount the cowl to and the baffle. Glue a 4" strip of glass cloth across
the fuse with four #4 x 3/8" screws and #4 washers. the aft edge of the bottom of the cowl. Glue three 1"
strips over the three remaining cowl attachment
❏ 10. Remove the cowl. Harden the threads in the screw holes inside the cowl.
cowl mount blocks by adding a few drops of thin CA
to each hole.
Mount the muffler

❏ 1. While the epoxy from the previous step is

curing, attach the header and muffler to the engine.
On our prototype, we cut 3/16" from the exhaust
header to allow the muffler to fit.

❏ 7. While the epoxy on the cowl mount blocks is

hardening, reinforce the seam between the cowl
front and rear with a 1" wide strip of glass cloth and
30-minute epoxy. Note: The inside of the cowl must
be thoroughly scuffed with coarse sandpaper for
the epoxy to adhere.

❏ 8. Mount the engine to the firewall. Position the ❏ 11. A pattern is supplied on the plan to make a
cowl on the fuse over the cowl mount blocks. Mount baffle from 1/8" lite-ply (not supplied) to direct
a spinner and a prop to your engine. Align the cowl incoming air over the head of the engine. The cutout
so there is adequate spacing between the front of fits the O.S. Max .61 FX engine. If you are using a
the cowl and the propeller and between the back of different engine, you will have to trim the baffle to fit
the cowl and the fuse. Trim the aft edge of the cowl if your setup. Make the baffle, then use medium CA to
necessary. Once the correct alignment has been tack-glue it to the inside of the cowl. ❏ 2. Cut an opening in the bottom of the fuse to
achieved, tape the cowl into position.You can see the accommodate the muffler and to allow adequate air flow.
correct cowl alignment in the following photo. Mount the engine to the fuse with the muffler attached.

❏ 12. Test fit the cowl to the fuse, trimming the baffle
as necessary until it fits around your engine. Once
❏ 9. Drill 3/32" holes through the cowl and the cowl you have achieved a good fit, use 30-minute epoxy ❏ 3. Use leftover 1/8" and 1/16" ply to make a 3/16"
mount blocks. Remove the cowl and enlarge the holes to glue four 2" long strips of 1" glass cloth to the cowl thick muffler mounting plate as shown on the plan.
-48-
Mark the location of the holes in the muffler for the
mounting screws onto the plate, then remove the
plate and drill 3/32" holes for the screws. Reinstall
the plate, glue it to F-2, then mount the muffler to the
plate with the screws and the silicone pads included
with the muffler.

❏ 4. Remove the muffler. Harden the threads in the

muffler mounting plate by adding a few drops of thin
CA to each hole.

❏ 1. Mount your throttle servo to the servo tray with

the screws included with the servo.
❏ 6. Cut an air passage in the bottom of the cowl
under the head of the engine and additional holes as ❏ 2. Drill a 3/16" hole through the firewall right next
necessary to access the needle valve and other to the left fuse crutch that is in alignment with the
accessories as required. arm on your carburetor, then connect the carb arm to
the throttle servo with a .074" wire pushrod, a 3/16"
The model is nearly ready to final sand and cover, guide tube, a nylon clevis and a screw-lock pushrod
but before doing so let’s take care of a few final connector supplied with this kit. If your setup is
details... different, or if you prefer, you could substitute the
supplied hardware and use your own equipment to
hook up the throttle (such as a throttle cable). Make
certain the screw in the screw-lock pushrod
connector does not protrude below the wing fillet
base - it’s close, but should not be a problem).

Hook up the throttle

Refer to these photos to hook up the throttle.

❏ 5. If you are going to use a fuel filler valve, mount the

valve at this time. We made a mount for a Great Planes
Fuel Filler Valve and mounted it to the front of former 2 ❏ 3. Support the guide tube near the servo with a
inside the fuse. Cut a hole through the sheeting in “U” channel made from strips of leftover 1/16" balsa
alignment with the filler valve. Reinforce the 1/16" balsa glued to the fuse crutch and the guide tube.
sheeting with a small sheet of leftover ABS or 1/32"
plywood glued to the inside of the sheeting. Securely ❏ 4. Mount the elevator and rudder servos to the
glue the filler valve mount into position. servo tray with the screws included with the servos.
-49-
Install the fuel tank ❏ 4. Fit the front of the tank mount under the forward ❏ 2. Cut out the cockpit kit according to the
tank mount tab on the back of the firewall. Use the holes instructions that came with it and test fit it into the
in the aft tank mount tab as a guide to drill two 1/16" fuselage. Make adjustments where necessary so all
Refer to this photo for the following two steps. holes through the tank mount. Mount the tank mount to the parts fit. Make sure none of the radio
the aft tank mount tab with two #2 x 1/2" screws. Drill components (receiver, battery pack, on/off switch,
1/4" (or 15/64" for a perfect fit) holes through the firewall etc.) you are going to install will interfere with the
for the fuel lines. cockpit kit when it’s permanently glued into position
later on.
Now you’ve got a secure, yet readily removable tank
mounting system for inspecting your fuel tank and
lines whenever necessary. While we’re installing
“tanks”, go ahead and install the air tank for the
retracts (if you’re installing retracts).

❏ 5. Connect the air line to the air tank for the

retracts. Mount the tank to the cockpit deck inside the
fuse as shown on the plan using RTV silicon cement.
❏ 1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood tank mount This installation is secure, yet not permanent in case
doubler along the aft edge of the top of the die-cut the tank needs to be removed.
1/8" plywood tank mount.

❏ 2. Assemble the fuel tank according to the

instructions that came with the tank (we used a GP.
14 oz tank, GPMQ1406). Mount the tank to the tank Test fit the cockpit kit
mount with rubber bands and a sheet of R/C foam ❏ 3. While you’re working on the cockpit kit, now is a
rubber in between. If you are not installing the Top Flite scale cockpit good time to assemble and test fit your pilot. We
kit, skip this section. You may make your own, used a Top Flite 1/7th scale WWII pilot (TOPQ9000).
scale appearing cockpit from balsa, ply and/or You can install just the upper part of the body, or glue
Refer to this photo for the following two steps. thin cardboard (from breakfast cereal boxes). his legs and feet on and install the full body.

❏ 4. The cockpit kit and pilot can be painted and

glued into position at any time before the canopy is
permanently glued to the fuse.

❏ 3. Cut the aft tank mount tab to a length of 2-3/4"

from the last piece of 1/4" x 3/8" basswood (leftover
from the servo hatch rails in the wing). Drill two 3/32"
holes through the tab 1/4" from both ends. Glue the ❏ 1. Cut out formers 6 & 7 along the lines you
tab to former F-4 where shown on the plan. marked previously.
-50-
Mount the receiver and battery pack On our prototype we mounted a 6 volt battery pack,
cushioned with a piece of 1/2" R/C foam rubber, to
the top of the plate and secured it with nylon filament
tape. Connect the retract servo to the air valve
Some modelers prefer to mount the receiver,
according to the manufacturer's instructions (CJM
battery pack and associated hardware (on/off
system shown). The air valve was mounted to a
switch, charge jack, air filler valve for retracts, etc.)
basswood block. The receiver, also cushioned with
after the model is covered. One advantage to
1/2" R/C foam rubber, was secured to the platform
doing this is that those components can be
with two #64 rubber bands. Note: We used a 6 volt,
positioned where necessary to minimize
1,000 mAh battery pack in our prototype. Whatever
additional weight that may be required to achieve
type of pack you use, a larger capacity pack, such as
the correct C.G. If, for example, while balancing
800 mAh or 1,000 mAh, is recommended if you have
the model (see Balance your model on page 57),
built your model with flaps and retracts.
you find that it is tail heavy, you could mount the
battery pack in a location ahead of the C.G., so
that no additional nose weight will be required.
Our flying prototype, with the O.S. Max .61 FX
engine, required no additional ballast to achieve
the correct C.G. with the battery pack and receiver
mounted where shown in the following steps. If
you are using a similar setup, you could go ahead
and mount your receiver and battery pack where
shown and rest assured that little or no additional
nose or tail weight will be required. If, however,
you prefer to mount these components after the
model is covered, return to this section when you
are ready.

❏ 2. Glue two 1/4" x 3/8" basswood rails (not

included) to formers F-4 and F-5 where shown on
the plan. Mount the platform to the rails with four #2
There is more than one way to mount your receiver x 3/8" screws (not included).
and battery pack. Some modelers have developed
their own proven methods. However you decide to
mount your receiver and battery, they should be
cushioned with R/C foam rubber and securely
mounted so they cannot come loose upon a rough ❏ 3. Mount the on/off switch, charge jack (if you use
landing or abrupt maneuvers. Simply stuffing them one) and the retract air filler valve in a location that is
into place with foam is not recommended. Space is a easily accessible, that will not interfere with anything
little tight inside the Focke-Wulf fuselage, but there’s inside the model and is out of the way of engine
plenty of room for all the components if you plan ❏ 1. Make a 3" x 5" receiver mounting plate from exhaust residue. If you mount any of those items
carefully. The following steps illustrate the way we 1/8" plywood (not included). Mount the battery pack, directly to the fuse sheeting, first glue a sheet of
mounted the receiver, battery pack and air valve receiver and retract and air valve system to the plate. leftover ABS or 1/32" plywood to the inside of the
setup in our proto. sheeting in those areas.
-51-
Balance the airplane laterally ❏ 3. Inspect all surfaces for uneven glue joints and RLM #76, and Grauviolette (gray violet) RLM # 75.
seams that require filler. Apply filler where needed. The cockpit interior was painted Gray RLM #02. RLM
IMPORTANT: Do not confuse this procedure with Many small dents or scratches in the balsa can be numbers are Germany’s official, standardized
“checking the C.G.” or “balancing the airplane repaired by applying a few drops of water to the area military colors. After the Testors paint was applied,
fore and aft.”...That very important step will be and allowing to dry. This will cause the wood to swell, the finish was sealed with a light coat of LustreKote
covered later in the manual. so you can sand it back to shape. crystal clear (TOPR7200) to provide a fuelproof
coating and to provide a smooth surface for the
Now that the basic airframe is completed, it’s time to ❏ 4. Final sand the entire model with progressively decals to adhere. After the clear sealer coat, the
balance the airplane laterally (side-to-side). finer grits of sandpaper, finishing with 320 or 400-grit. decals and panel lines were applied, then the entire
Don’t press down too hard while sanding over sheeted model was once again painted with a coat of
❏ 1. Make sure all the main components are installed areas (which is pretty much the whole model!). This LustreKote flat clear. The trim scheme selected was
in the model (landing gear, servos, engine, exhaust can cause thin spots in the sheeting over ribs or taken from the Tamiya 1/48 scale Fw 190D, kit
system, etc.). Mount the wing to the fuse. formers. It’s also helpful to use fresh, new sandpaper. number 61041.

❏ 2. With the wing level, have an assistant help you If you prefer not to go through all the work of a
lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the Trim scheme painted trim scheme, you may be able to find a
bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this simpler scale trim scheme, or make up your own,
several times. The Focke-Wulf features a spray painted camouflage scale-appearing trim scheme by simply covering
“patchwork” trim scheme where the transition from your Focke-Wulf with a few of the flat military
❏ 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the one color to the next is “feathered” with no defined MonoKote colors such as flat dove gray, flat olive
model, it means that side is heavy. Balance the lines. This means that, for the most accurate drab, flat tan, and flat black.
airplane by gluing weight inside the other wing tip. representation, the finish on the model should be
An airplane that has been laterally balanced will spray painted. However, the balsa sheeting must first The following instructions provide details on how to
track better in loops and other maneuvers. be prepped and sealed. This is typically done with finish your model like the model on the kit box cover
the traditional “glass cloth and resin” method, where using a MonoKote-covered and painted trim scheme.
the entire model is covered with light-weight glass
cloth bonded to the skin with polyester or epoxy
resin. There are many products in the hobby industry,
specially developed for this purpose, that have the
FINISHING correct viscosity and working time and that are
sandable. Glass cloth and resin is unquestionably Cover the model
Final Preparations the most durable and long-lasting way to finish a
balsa model, though it is probably also the most time
Warning: Never cut the covering on critical
❏ 1. If you haven’t already done so, remove all consuming and has the potential to add much weight
structural areas of the model. These areas include
components including the engine, servos, pushrods, if not done correctly.
the stab sheeting, fin sheeting and wing sheeting—
landing gear, etc. especially near the fuse where the stresses can be
An alternate method to glass cloth for prepping the
high. Modelers who cut the covering on the model
❏ 2. Use fuelproof model paint, finishing resin or balsa for painting, and the method we have selected
tend to cut into the sheeting, weakening it.
epoxy thinned with alcohol to fuelproof areas that for the model on the kit box cover, is to cover it with
Occasionally it may be necessary to make a small
may be exposed to fuel or engine exhaust. These dove gray MonoKote film. We have painted over
cut in the covering here and there. This is
include the wheel wells, the underside of the wing some of our MonoKote-covered models with Top
acceptable as long as the cut is small and is not
sheeting in the flap area, the firewall and the engine Flite LustreKote, and painted over others with
over sheeting on a critical area. Cuts that go
and muffler compartment, the fuel tank area, the Testors Model Master Acrylic paint. The colors used
across the grain weaken the balsa more than cuts
wing saddle in the fuse, belly pan formers BP-1 and for the Focke-Wulf on the cover are Testors Dunkel
that go with the grain.
BP-3 and the paper wing bolt tubes. Grun (dark green) RLM #82, Lichtblau (light blue)
-52-
❏ 1. Use a dust brush, compressed air or a Top Flite ❏ 3. Use a sharp hobby knife to carefully cut the Supercharger intake
Tack Cloth to remove balsa dust from the model. covering from the model slightly inside the lines you
Thoroughly clean your work area, removing any balsa marked. Remove any ink left on the covering with Note: Just the same as the machine gun cover, if
dust or particles that could get underneath the covering denatured alcohol. you are finishing your model by painting over
and mess up your finish. Get out your covering tools MonoKote or glass cloth, glue the supercharger
and “gear up” your work shop for covering. intake to the model before painting. If you are going
for an entirely MonoKote-covered finish, paint the
❏ 2. Cover the control surfaces first (rudder,
supercharger intake first, then glue it to the model.
elevators, ailerons and flaps—if used). It may be
helpful to mark which elevator and aileron is the right
and left in an inconspicuous location.
❏ 3. Cover the wing. Begin with the belly pan, then
the bottom of both panels, then the top of both
panels. Cover the aileron and flap hatches.
❏ 4. Cover the fuse. Use your own preferences on
the exact covering sequence. Usually it’s best to first
cover the bottom, then the sides, then the top of the
fuse. If you are going to paint the covering as has
been described, consider priming, then painting the
❏ 1. Cut out the two parts of the molded ABS
supercharger intake.
wing fillet instead of covering it.
❏ 4. Remove the covering from the fuse, so the
machine gun cover will be glued to bare balsa. ❏ 2. Glue the super charger intake together with CA.
Use automotive Bondo filler or plastic filler to fill the
Machine gun cover
seam between the two parts. Test fit the
Note: If you are finishing your model by painting supercharger intake to the fuse. Trim as necessary
over MonoKote or glass cloth, glue the machine gun for a good fit.
cover to the model before painting. If you are going
for an entirely MonoKote-covered finish, paint the ❏ 3. The same as you did for the machine gun cover,
machine gun cover first, then glue it to the model trim the covering from the fuse around the
after it has been covered. supercharger intake and remove the covering.

❏ 1. Position the machine gun cover on the fuse (with

the aft edge aligned with the middle of former 6B).

❏ 5. Glue the machine gun cover into position. If you

have not yet painted the model, you could use thin or
medium CA to glue the machine gun cover on. If the
machine gun cover is already painted, it may be
safer to use “canopy glue” (such as J & Z Products Z
❏ 2. Use a felt-tip pen to draw the outline of the R/C 56) that will not damage the finish and can be
machine gun cover onto the covering. removed with water. ❏ 4. Glue the supercharger intake into position.
-53-
Landing gear covers thick basswood. If you are using CJM retracts, start (DUBQ3704) and a Master Airscrew 14" 3-bladed
by drilling a 3/8" hole through an approximately 3/8" propeller (MASQ1947). This spinner and prop are
Note: The landing gear covers as featured on the kit thick sheet of basswood, then cut the sheet through the approximate scale size for a Focke-Wulf of this
box cover and shown in these instructions are not the middle of the hole and trim the edges to make scale, but are not the correct shape (the actual
included with the kit and, if you have retractable landing two mounts. Focke-Wulf spinner is more “blunt” and the propeller
gear, are not intended to be in position for flying. This is blade tips are more rounded). Paint the spinner to
because the landing gear does not fully retract into the match the trim scheme you have selected. Note: The
wing, thus leaving the covers extending below the wing size of this propeller is not suitable for flying this
creating much drag. Additionally, the landing gear model. Fly your model with the appropriate size
covers interfere with the belly pan. They are intended propeller recommended by the engine manufacturer.
for static display only.

Painting

❏ 1. Prime the cowl with LustreKote® white primer,

allow to dry, then wet-sand with 400-grit sandpaper.
Paint the cowl with LustreKote dove gray to match
the dove gray on the fuse. Paint the inside of the cowl
and the engine baffle flat black.
❏ 3. Glue the mounts to the inside of the wheel
covers. Cover or paint the wheel covers, then mount
them to the struts with the mounts with double-sided
tape or something similar.

❏ 1. Use the pattern provided on the plan to make two Display propeller
landing gear covers from 1/8" lite-ply or 1/8" balsa.

❏ 2. Temporarily join the control surfaces to the

wing, stab and fin with the hinges, but do not glue the
hinges into place yet. Attach the cowl to the fuse.
This way, all patchwork of the camo trim scheme will
line up (as shown in the photo).

❏ 3. Wipe the model down with a dust-free cloth and

❏ There are different ways to make a propeller and denatured alcohol. Follow with a tack-cloth to remove
spinner for static (non-moving/flying) display, residual dust particles and lint.
depending upon how much effort you want to put
❏ 2. Make two landing gear cover mounts for each forth and how accurate you wish the propeller to be. ❏ 4. Use an airbrush to paint the model according to
landing gear cover as shown in the sketch from 3/8" We simply used a Du-Bro white 3" 3-blade spinner the trim scheme you have selected.
-54-
❏ 5. Allow the paint to dry. Since Testors is not fuel ❏ 8. After the panel lines and decals have been
proof, it must be sealed with fuelproof paint. Remove applied, remove the control surfaces and apply a light
the control surfaces. Paint all parts of the model that mist coat of LustreKote flat clear (TOPQ7199) to all
were painted with Testors with two very light coats of parts of the model. A light mist is required so that the
LustreKote crystal clear (TOPQ7200). panel lines will not run. After the mist coat has been
applied, spray on an additional coat of flat clear.

❏ 6. After the clear has dried, temporarily rejoin the

control surfaces to the model with the hinges. Cut the ❏ 11. Use a hobby knife to trim the masking tape
decals from the included decal sheet and place them along the pencil-drawn guide lines, then peel off the
on the model where shown on the kit box. For larger Do not spray LustreKote directly on the canopy. excess tape.
decals, peel the decal from its backing, then dip it in Eventually, LustreKote will curl the butyrate plastic ❏ 12. Mask the rest of the clear areas of the canopy
a solution of warm water and soap (about five or six that the canopy is made of. If you are following the same way and cover the inside of the canopy
drops of liquid dish soap per quart of water). This will these instructions and are painting the model with with tape or paper to protect it from over spray.
aid in positioning the decal and eliminate air bubbles. Testors, it will serve as a barrier, so if misted on
Place the decal on the model, slide it into position, lightly over the Testors, LustreKote will not distort ❏ ❏ 13. Paint the canopy. In the case of our prototype
then squeegee the water out from underneath with a the plastic. If you are not using Testors paint, model on the kit box cover, the canopy was painted with
rubber squeegee or a piece of soft balsa. Some select another type of paint that will not react with Testors paint to match the rest of the model. After the
small wrinkles can be removed with a little heat from butyrate such as Pactra Formula-U or Chevron. Testors dries, apply a light mist coat of LustreKote flat
a heat gun. Details for painting the canopy follow. clear to fuelproof the Testors.

Exhaust stacks

❏ 9. After the canopy has been cut out and trimmed

to fit the fuse, carefully sand the edges with 400-grit
sandpaper, then wash the canopy in warm,
soapy water.
❏ 1. Cut out both molded ABS exhaust stacks as shown.
❏ 2. Paint the exhaust stacks. You could paint them a
burnt, golden brown to match a full-size Focke-Wulf, or
just paint them flat black. If the paint you are using is not
fuelproof, coat the exhaust stacks with fuelproof paint.

❏ 7. Apply panel lines with a Top Flite Panel Line

Pen (TOPQ25210). Draw the various hatches and
rivets with a Top Flite Scale Template (TOPR2187).
Specialized templates can be made from sheets of
plastic. Use a flexible straightedge such as a plastic
strip or a thin, metal ruler to apply the panel lines.
Apply a few strips of vinyl tape to the underside of ❏ 3. The same way you did the machine gun cover,
your straightedge. This will raise it slightly off the ❏ 10. Mask the clear areas of the canopy. Use a position the exhaust stacks on the fuse and trim
surface, so the ink from the panel line pen will not pencil to simultaneously press the tape into the around them with a felt-tip pen. Cut the covering from
“bleed” underneath. corners while marking guidelines for trimming. the fuse and glue the exhaust stacks into position.
-55-
 FINAL ASSEMBLY Do not use CA accelerator on any of the ❏ ❏ 7. Mix enough 30-minute epoxy to do one flap
hinges and do not glue the hinges with at a time. Use a piece of wire or a toothpick to
Join the control surfaces anything but thin CA. Do not attempt to glue thoroughly coat the holes in one of the flaps and the
one half of the hinge at a time. The hinges will holes in the wing with epoxy. Coat one side of the
not be properly secured and could come out flap hinges with epoxy and insert them into the wing.
while the model is in flight. Coat the other side of the hinges with epoxy and join
the flap. Wipe away excess epoxy before it hardens.

❏ ❏ 8. Join the flap to the wing. Tape the flap in

place until the epoxy has fully hardened.

❏ 9. Join the other flap to the wing the same way.

❏ 10. Reinstall the pushrods you disconnected

before covering, and mount the control horns to the
ailerons, flaps, elevator and rudder. Reinstall any
hardware and other components you may not
❏ 1. Start with the stab and elevators. Remove a already have in place such as the fuel tank and fuel
small strip of covering from the hinge slots. lines, servos, on/off switch, air tank, engine, muffler,
fuel filler valve, air filler valve, etc.
❏ 2. Without using any glue, insert the hinges into
the stab. Fill the torque rod holes in the elevators with
30-minute epoxy.

Hook up the controls

❏ 1. If you’ve built your model for retracts, route the
air lines through the wing and hook up the air lines to
the control valve and air tank in the fuse. Leave the
❏ 4. Cut a paper towel into 2" squares. Add six drops lines long enough so they can be connected to the
of thin CA to the center of the hinges on both the landing gear outside of the wing. Connect the air
top and bottom. The tunnels you drilled will wick the lines to the landing gear, then mount the gear. If you
CA into the entire hinge surface. Use the paper towel haven’t already done so, secure the set screw that
squares to absorb excess CA from the hinge gap. holds the axle to the strut with a drop of thread
locking compound. Add a drop of oil to the axles
(even if the wheels spin freely now, the plastic hubs
❏ 3. Join the elevators to the stab and the joiner wire. ❏ 5. Use the same hinging method to join the rudder can soften and deform due to the friction caused by
Wipe away excess epoxy with a tissue dampened with to the fin and the ailerons to the wing. the speed and weight of the model while taking off
alcohol. If the hinges don’t remain centered as you join and landing (we’ve seen it happen!).
the elevators, remove the stab and insert a pin in the
center of the hinges. Make sure there is approximately ❏ 6. If you’ve built working flaps, use a toothpick to ❏ 2. Mount the engine and muffler and hook up all
a 1/64" gap between the elevators and the stab so you apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to the pivot the systems inside the cowl including the fuel lines,
do not glue them together. points of the hinges to keep epoxy out. in-line fuel filler valve, etc.
-56-
❏ 3. Apply a few drops of thin CA to the holes in the neutral, use a felt-tip pen to mark the pushrods ❏ 3. Securely glue the canopy to the fuse using
servo blocks and servo tray for the servo mounting where they cross the holes in the servo arms. Make canopy glue such as J & Z Products Z RC/56
screws and allow to dry. Mount the servos in the wing a 90-degree bend in the wires at the marks you (JOZR5007). Use rubber bands or masking tape to
and fuse. Install servo extension cords as necessary. made. Temporarily install a nylon Faslink™ on the hold the canopy in position until the glue dries.
Secure all connections with vinyl tape, heat shrink wires, then cut them so that about 1/16" protrudes
tubing, or special clips intended for that purpose. from the bottom of the Faslink. Connect the pushrods
Make certain none of the servo cords will interfere to the servos with the Faslinks. Disconnect the radio.
with the landing gear or other moveable systems. GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY
❏ 6. Mount the flap and servo hatches in the wing
❏ 4. Mount the control horns to the control surfaces with the #2 x 3/8" flat head screws. Hookup the Balance your model
(remember that the flap horns are mounted ailerons and flaps with the pushrods you’ve already
“backwards”). Temporarily connect the servos to your made. Use a silicone retainer on all clevises. NOTE: This section is VERY important and must
receiver and battery pack (they may not yet be NOT be omitted! A model that is not properly
mounted in the model), turn on your radio, center the ❏ 7. Mount the receiver and battery pack if you are balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.
trims on the transmitter, then center the arms on all not waiting until checking the C.G. to determine
the servos except the flap servos. The arms on the where to mount them. At this stage your model should be in ready-to-fly
flap servos should be in a position that holds the condition with all of the systems in place including
flaps up when the flap switch on the transmitter is in the engine, landing gear, covering and paint, and the
the “up” position. Mount the canopy radio system (less the receiver and battery pack if
you are planning to determine their location based
upon the current C.G. location).

Here’s a close-up photo of the canopy after the

model has been finished.

❏ 1. If you haven’t already done so, install the

cockpit kit (if you’ve built one) and pilot.

❏ 2. Position the canopy on the fuse. Use a felt-tip

pen to trace its outline onto the covering. Use a ❏ 1. Accurately mark the C.G. on the top of the wing
hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut a on both sides of the fuselage. The C.G. is shown on
1/16" strip of covering from the fuse. Remove the the plan (CG), and is located 2-3/4" back from the
❏ 5. Install the elevator and rudder pushrods in the covering, exposing the bare balsa. This will allow the leading edge at the LE “break” in the wing at rib
fuse. Connect the pushrods to the elevator and canopy to be securely attached to the fuse—not just W-3. This is where your model should balance for
rudder/tail gear. With the rudder and elevators to the covering. your first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment
-57-
by shifting the C.G. up to 13/64" forward or back to fuse over F-2 until the model balances. Once you CONTROL SURFACE THROWS
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. have determined the amount of weight required, it
forward may improve the smoothness and arrow-like can be permanently attached to F-2 inside the fuse.
tracking, but it may then require more speed for This process should first be done with your receiver
takeoff and make it more difficult to slow down for and battery pack if you have not yet mounted them.
landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more Add additional weight if required. Tail weight, if
agile with a lighter and snappier feel. In any case, required, may be added by cutting open the bottom
start at the location we recommend and do not at of the fuse aft of the tail wheel and gluing it
any time balance your model outside the permanently inside.
recommended range.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of
the lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over
time, fuel and exhaust residue will soften the
adhesive and cause the weight to fall off. Use #2
sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to
permanently hold the weight in place. ❏ NOTE: Throws are measured at the widest part
of the elevators, rudder, ailerons and flaps. Use a
❏ 4. Once you have determined where to mount the Great Planes AccuThrow™ meter to accurately
battery pack and receiver and/or any additional weight measure control throw.
required to achieve the correct balance, take the model
off the balance stand and remove the wing. We recommend the following control surface throws:

❏ 5. If you have not already done so, mount the ELEVATOR: (High Rate) (Low Rate)
receiver and battery pack. Attach additional lead 5/8" up 7/16" up
❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of weight where required. 5/8" down 7/16" down
the model installed (ready to fly), an empty fuel tank
and the landing gear retracted (if you have retracts), ❏ 6. IMPORTANT: Recheck the C.G. RUDDER: (High Rate) (Low Rate)
place the model upside-down on a Great Planes CG 1-1/4" right 7/8" right
Machine at the balance point you marked, or hold it 1-1/4" left 7/8" left
upside-down in a stand with the stabilizer level.
AILERONS: (High Rate) (Low Rate)
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and you 11/16" up 7/16" up
must add weight to the nose to balance. If the nose Set the control surface throws 11/16" down 7/16" down
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and you must add
weight to the tail to balance. An easy way to ❏ 1. If you haven’t already done so, center all the FLAPS: (Maximum setting) 1-11/16" down
determine how much weight to add, and where to servos. The servo arms on the flap servos should be
add it is to temporarily set segments of Great Planes positioned so the flaps are up when the switch on the
(GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead weight directly on the transmitter is in the “up” position. The balance point and control surface throws
outside of the fuselage over a location where the listed in this manual are the ones at which the
weight could be permanently attached inside the ❏ 2. Make certain all the controls move in the correct Focke-Wulf flies best. Set up your aircraft to those
fuselage. For example, if the model is tail heavy, a direction. specifications. If, after a few flights, you would like
good place to add weight would be to former F-2 to adjust the throws or C.G. to suit your tastes, that
(don’t attach weight to the cowl—it is not intended to ❏ 3. Adjust your pushrod hookups, ATV’s and dual is fine. Too much control surface throw can make
support weight). Begin by placing incrementally rates as necessary to provide the proper control your model difficult to control or force it into a stall,
increasing amounts of weight on the bottom of the surface movements as shown. so remember...More is not better.
-58-
 PREFLIGHT of vibration that can damage your model. Not only ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
Identification possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
Failure to follow these safety precautions may
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration
can also cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, result in severe injury to yourself and others.
site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should
always have your name, address, telephone number cause your engine to run hot or quit.
and AMA number on or inside your model. It is
required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high
sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do
included with the decal sheet and place it on or We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember
inside your model. Balancer™ (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly
Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine
Charge batteries in our flight box. in a closed room or garage.
Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should always charge your Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
transmitter and receiver batteries the night before operate engines.
you go flying, and at other times as recommended
by the radio manufacturer. Ground check Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Follow the engine manufacturer’s instructions to
NOTE: Checking the condition of your receiver break-in your engine. After you run the engine on Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or
battery pack is highly recommended. All battery your model, inspect your model closely to make sure sand; the propeller may throw such material in your
packs, whether it’s a trusty pack you’ve just taken all screws remain tight and your pushrods and face or eyes.
out of another model, or a new battery pack you just connectors are secure.
purchased, should be cycled, noting the discharge Keep your face and body as well as all spectators
capacity. Oftentimes a weak battery pack can be away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as
identified (and a valuable model saved!) by you start and run the engine.
comparing its actual capacity to its rated capacity.
Refer to the instructions and recommendations that Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing,
come with your cycler. If you don’t own a battery
Range check shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects
Ground check the operational range of your radio
cycler, perhaps you can have a friend cycle your such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of
before the first flight of the day. With the transmitter
pack and note the capacity for you. shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.
antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter
on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away
Balance propellers Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the
from the model and still have control. Have an
engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.
assistant stand by your model and, while you work
Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is
the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at
the running propeller.
various speeds with an assistant holding the model,
using hand signals to show you what is happening.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the
If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do
rotating propeller.
not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look for
loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right
wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good
Carefully balance your propellers before you fly. An your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,
unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause receiver crystal from a previous crash. causing a fire.
-59-
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by RADIO CONTROL ❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it
closing off the fuel line or following the engine 1. I will have completed a successful radio has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep
manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use equipment ground check before the first flight of a tension off the solder joint inside the receiver.
hands, fingers or any other body part to try to stop new or repaired model.
the engine. To stop a gasoline powered engine an
❏ 5. Balance your model laterally as explained in
the instructions.
on/off switch should be connected to the engine coil. 2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the
presence of spectators until I become a qualified ❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical
Do not throw anything into the propeller of a running flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper. fasteners such as the set screws that hold the
engine. wheel axles to the struts, screws that hold the
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff carburetor arm (if applicable), screw-lock
away from the pit or spectator areas, and I will not pushrod connectors if used, etc.
thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless
❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
beyond my control.
turn freely.
AMA SAFETY CODE (Excerpt) 4. I will operate my model using only radio ❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Read and abide by the following Academy of Model ❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA
Communications Commission...
Aeronautics Official Safety Code: where appropriate (control horns, servo
hatches, servo mounting screws, etc.).
GENERAL CHECK LIST ❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned direction and the throws are set up according
events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations During the last few moments of preparation your to the manual.
until it has been proven to be airworthy by having mind may be elsewhere anticipating the
been previously successfully flight tested. excitement of your first flight. Because of this, you ❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all
may be more likely to overlook certain checks and the clevises and that all servo arms are
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than procedures that should be performed after your secured to the servos with the screws
approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport model is built. To help avoid this, we’ve provided a included with your radio.
without notifying the airport operator. I will give right checklist to make sure you don’t overlook these
❏ 12. Secure connections between servo wires and
of way to, and avoid flying in the proximity of full important areas. Many are covered in the
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the
scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer shall be instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to
connection between your battery pack and the
used to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing
the proximity of full scale aircraft. check the items off as you complete them (that’s
or special clips suitable for that purpose.
why we call it a check list!).
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety ❏ 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may
rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully have used do not interfere with other systems
and deliberately fly my models in a careless, ❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust (servo arms, landing gear, pushrods, etc.).
reckless and/or dangerous manner. residue such as the firewall, engine
compartment, fuel tank compartment, wing ❏ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler
7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified saddle area, trailing edge of the wing in the flap with high temp RTV silicone, thread locking
with my name and address or AMA number, on or in area and wheel wells, etc. compound or J.B. Weld.
the model. ❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual. not kinked.
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics
(any device that explodes, burns, or propels a ❏ 3. Secure the battery and receiver. Simply stuffing ❏ 16. Use an incidence meter to check the wing for
projectile of any kind). them into place with foam rubber is not sufficient. twists and attempt to correct before flying.
-60-
❏ 17. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers). Fuel mixture adjustment For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic,
it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line
❏ 18. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner. with you. Tell him to remind you to throttle back once
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher
❏ 19. Place your name, address, AMA number and temperature than an un-cowled engine. For this the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full
telephone number on or inside your model. reason, the fuel mixture should be richened so the throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, most scale
engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak. By models fly more smoothly and more scale-like at
❏ 20. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) reduced speeds.
running the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent
and make sure it is fully charged.
dead stick landings caused by overheating.
❏ 21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so
before your first flight.
Flight
❏ 22. Range check your radio when you get to the
flying field.
Take it easy with your Focke-Wulf for your first few
flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as your
Takeoff engine breaks in. Adjust the trims to maintain
straight and level flight. After flying around for a
FLYING Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model while, and still at a safe altitude, execute practice
handles on the ground by doing a few practice runs landing approaches by reducing the throttle and
The Top Flite Focke-Wulf is a great-flying scale warbird at low speeds on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to extending the gear to see how the model handles at
that flies smoothly and predictably. It does not, however keep the tail wheel on the ground. If necessary, slower speeds. If you plan to land with the flaps,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary adjust the tail wheel or main wheels until the model practice slow flight and landing approaches with the
R/C trainer and should be flown only by experienced rolls straight down the runway. If you need to calm flaps extended while still at a comfortable altitude.
R/C pilots. your nerves before the maiden flight, shut the engine Add power to see how she climbs with flaps as well.
down and bring the model back into the pits. Top off Continue to fly around, executing various maneuvers
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C the fuel, then check all fasteners and control and making mental notes (or having your assistant
AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any unusual linkages for peace of mind. Takeoff on high rates— write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may
sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may especially if you are taking off into a crosswind. be required to fine tune the model so it flies the way
indicate control surface flutter. Because flutter can you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this first flight
quickly destroy components of your airplane, any When you’re ready for takeoff, point the model to become familiar with your model before landing.
time you detect flutter you must immediately cut the straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator to
throttle and land the airplane! Check all servo keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel
grommets for deterioration (this may indicate which steering, then gradually advance the throttle. As the Landing
surface fluttered), and make sure all pushrod model gains speed decrease up elevator allowing
linkages are secure and free of play. If the control the tail to come off the ground. One of the most Landings may be executed with or without flaps.
surface fluttered once, it probably will flutter again important things to remember with a tail dragger is to Modelers unfamiliar with flaps usually make their
under similar circumstances unless you can always be ready to apply right rudder to counteract first few landings without them, but learn to prefer
eliminate the free-play or flexing in the linkages. Here the torque of the engine, keeping the model heading landing with flaps later on. If you are unsure, you
are some things which can cause flutter: Excessive straight. Gain as much speed as your runway and could always land with the flaps set to half of their full
hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor flying site will safely allow before gently applying up setting. When you’re ready to land with flaps,
fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of pushrod in guide elevator, lifting the model into the air. At this moment maintain an engine R.P.M. that is slightly higher than
tube caused by tight bends; Poor fit of Z-bend in it is likely that you will need to apply more right normal to overcome the additional drag. Flaps and
servo arm; Insufficient glue used when gluing in the rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on landing gear (if you’ve installed retracts) should be
elevator joiner wire; Excessive play or backlash in the elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a extended after the throttle and airspeed have been
servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting. gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into the reduced and the model is on the downwind leg of the
traffic pattern. landing pattern.
-61-
To initiate a landing approach, make your final turn Focke-Wulf Fw 190D-9 Top Flite® Gold Giant P-47
toward the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose
Thunderbolt
down to maintain airspeed and control. Level the Type: Single Seat Fighter Bomber
attitude when the model reaches the runway
threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to Manufacturer: Focke-wulf (TOPA0415)
maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are
going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle First Flight: Late 1942
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract
torque) and climb out to make another attempt. Engine: Liquid cooled Junkers Jomo
When you’re ready to make your landing flare and 213A-1 Inverted V12
the model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly
increase up elevator until it gently touches down. Horsepower: 1,776 hp (2,240 hp
Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying Emergency Boost)
speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the
ground, regaining tail wheel control. Refrain from Wing span: 34 ft 5-1/2 in
using flaps during dead-stick landings unless you’re
near the runway and already lined-up. Without Length: 33 ft 5-1/4 in
power, flaps will reduce the model’s range causing it
to land shorter than you may normally expect. Height: 11 ft 1/4 in
If you enjoyed building this Top Flite Gold Edition kit,
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in Empty weight: 7,720 lbs and if you've ever thought of getting into giant-scale
a safe manner. modeling, try the 85" wingspan Top Flite Gold Giant
Loaded weight: 10,670 lbs P-47 Thunderbolt. The Thunderbolt has long been
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING! recognized as a great flying plane—in any size! And
Maximum Speed: 404 mph because of its Gold Edition engineering and familiar
wood construction, it's an ideal transition into giant-
Range: 560 miles scale modeling.

Initial Climb: 3,300 ft per minute

Service Ceiling: 32,810 ft

Armament: Two 13mm MG 131 above

engine
Two 20mm MG 151/20 in
wing roots
Two 20mm MG 151/20 or
30mm Mk 108 in outer wings.

Bomb Load: One 1,100 lb bomb on

centerline.

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 Great Planes® AccuPoint™ Laser Great Planes® C.G. Machine™ Great Planes® Cordless Slot
Incidence Meter Airplane Balancer Machine™ Motorized Hinge
(GPMR2400) Slotting Tool
(GPMR4020)
(GPMR4011)

• Measures incidence, washout and engine

thrust angle with 1/4 degree accuracy! • The ultimate in slot cutting convenience
and ease!
If picture-perfect performance from your plane is a Now Great Planes adds cordless convenience to the
must, Great Planes' AccuPoint Laser Incidence Slot Machine's many advantages! Charge up the
Meter is an essential tool when you build. It's a maintenance-free NiCds built into the case, and you
perfect way for kit builders to see if kit incidence have enough "juice" to cut 60 slots (for 30
Pat. D399,220
matches plan incidence, and a fast, easy aid for hinges)...about the same number you'll find in an
scratch builders as well. In either case, accurate • Brings out your plane’s best performance! average kit. Recharging is easy with the included AC
incidence is the goal- and that's where the Laser wall charger, and takes only about 3 hours. In the
Incidence Meter (literally!) shines. A low-energy Give your basic trainer maximum stability...make meantime, you can be installing hinges into the
laser, powered by the included battery, provides the your low-wing aerobats more agile...help your pylon clean, accurate slots the Slot Machine is known for.
incredible accuracy, and adjusting the angle of the planes fly faster than ever. How? Balance them with And like the original, it arrives fully assembled, with
laser sight does away with the need to level the optimum accuracy, using the ingenious and easy-to two replaceable blades...all you have to do is place
entire plane. Just clamp it in place, turn it on, take use Great Planes C.G. Machine! It works without the the blades against the wood, hit the "ON" switch and
readings and make adjustments as needed. It's a measuring, marking and error-prone finger let Slot Machine do the work.
slick way to prevent warped wings and bad wing-to- gymnastics that balancing by hand requires. And it
tail alignment--and useful for setting accurate engine can be used with kits or almost ready-to-fly planes of
thrust angles and heli pitch, too. Included 20” bar fits any size and any wingspan. Slanted wire balancing
wing chords up to 16". 1-year warranty. Available posts accept any plane up to 40 lb...built-in rulers
separately: an extra-long 36” Bar for big wings. position the model exactly at the center of gravity
recommended in the model’s instruction manual.
There’s no guesswork...in fact, the C.G. Machine is
so easy to use that even first-time pilots will achieve
accurate results.
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 3-VIEW DRAWING
Use this layout for your trim scheme planning only.
Not suitable for scale documentation.

Printed in USA