Malvarosa

MALVAROSA
EXPRESSION1 FIBER ARTS Expression Fiber Arts
 -Malvarosa-

Malvarosa is the Italian word for hollyhock. Hollyhocks are popular, ornamental garden plants. During the Victorian era, the
hollyhock symbolized both ambition and fecundity in the language of owers. One of the meanings of the word fecundity is the
ability to produce many new ideas. That is the reason why Malvarosa is the perfect name for this sweater.

The sweater is a knitted, cropped sweater with gorgeous, puffy, bishop sleeves. The knitter picks the color, whether to add
embroidery, the colors of embroidery thread, and how much or how little embroidery is desired. You will love your sweater.
Enjoy creating your ideas!

CA N DY K E Y CHANDI AGEE

Designer Expression Fiber Arts

www.etcknittingstudio.net www.expression berarts.com

We appreciate you downloading our pattern! We pour tons of time and love into each one and hope you enjoy it.
Should you have any questions, please contact info@expressionfiberarts.com for assistance.

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 - DETAILS-
SIZES: Sizes are based on actual bust measurement and are designed to be worn
with 2” of ease: A – XS/32-34” (B – S/36-38”, C – M/40-42”, D – L/ 44-46”) (E – XL/
48-50”, F – 2XL/52-54”, G – 3XL/56-58”) H – 4XL/60-62”.
The sample shown is a size B (Small) and is shown on a 34” bust with 2” of DIMENSIONS
positive ease.

Expression Fiber Arts Dewy DK

Shown in color: Pink Pearl. Yardage requirements can be found on page 8.
If that color isn't available, any from this category will work.
MATERIALS

US size 6 (4.00mm) circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge

The Small sample shown here was made using 32” (81cm) circular needles for the
body of the sweater. For the neck and sleeves, 16” (41cm) circular needles were
NEEDLE
used. Double pointed needles were used to knit the sleeve ribbing.

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and optional embroidery, stitch markers, stitch
holders or scrap yarn, embroidery oss, if desired (Scrap DK or worsted weight yarn
could also be used for the embroidery.)
DMC oss colors used in sample: 225, 501, 503, 504, 613, 819, 3046, and Ecru.
I used a safety pin to keep the row count. A crochet hook is handy in case you drop TOOLS
a stitch.

24 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch, unblocked

GAUGE

Intermediate to Advanced – This pattern is for those who feel comfortable

with knitting and have made a few projects, using various skills and
techniques. Skills/concepts include garment construction, German Short
Rows, and intermediate embroidery skills, if you plan to add embroidery. SKILL LEVEL

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 - ABBREVIATIONS-

BO bind off

BOR beginning of round

CO cast on

DS German Row double stitch or double knit stitch

k knit

kfb knit into front and back of next stitch (single increase)

k2tog knit 2 stitches together (single decrease)

M1 make one stitch

p purl

pm place marker

rep repeat

RS right/front side of work

sm slip marker

st(s) stitch(es)

WS wrong/back side of work

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 - PATTERN-
NOTES

• The pattern includes two short row sections for shaping the bust and shoulders, and the German
Short Row method is recommended. Click here to watch a video on this technique.
• The pattern has long, puffy bishop sleeves with cuffs. The Stockinette section on the sleeves is
knitted to the bend of the wrist, just below the wrist bone. At that point, you’ll begin the cuff
ribbing, and this creates the sleeve puff. Occasionally try on the sleeve to ensure it is the correct
length for your body.
• Malvarosa is knit with a semi-solid yarn in a single color. The embroidery is optional. The
embroidered owers add a nice touch to your sweater. I added owers to the yoke of the
sweater. If you want owers all over your sweater, go for it!
• The joy of knitting a sweater from the top down is that you can try it on as you go and modify it as
needed. Try on your sweater several times to test your t. You can always add increase or
decrease rounds between the sections for a better t. Adding additional rounds will require
additional yardage.
• Be sure and check the table on page 9 for the stitch count at each increase.
• A kfb is used as the increase in the yoke, which leaves a “bump.” I like the look of the bump;
however, you can M1 any way you like. Some M1 methods leave a hole, but that may be the look
you want. Just replace the kfb every time you encounter it.
• When you follow the decrease section of the body under the arms, you will decrease the body by
2”. This decrease adds shaping that narrows down to the waist.
• VERY IMPORTANT – If you wonder what row you are on, count the rows on the middle front of the
sweater. The back has extra rows for the short row sections. Remember, your row/round count will
be off if you count the rows/rounds on the back of your sweater. Count the rows in the front of the
yoke all the way down to the BO. I suggest keeping a safety pin or removable stitch marker handy
and moving it down the body IN THE FRONT, as you reach every 10th row. Use this method to
track your count on each sleeve, too.
• Click here to watch a tutorial on how to embroider your sweater.

PATTERN

CO 110 (116, 120, 126) (140, 146, 156) 166. your stitch count matches the Stitch Count
Join for working in the round, and add a stitch Table on page 9.
marker to mark the BOR. Then start the ribbing. Rounds 6-10 (5 rounds): Knit around.
Rounds 1-4: Work a *k1, p1* ribbing around. Round 11: *k4, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count
Round 5: For sizes A, C, E, continue in Table).
established ribbing. For sizes B, D, F, G, H, work Rounds 12-16 (5 rounds): Knit around.
*k1, p1* until the last two sts, then k2tog. Now Round 17: *k5, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count
Table).

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 Round 18: This round adds a short row section Round 69: This round is for splitting for the
to help with the t. k50 (54, 56, 58) (61, 63, 65) sleeves, uniting the front and back to form the
68, then turn, make DS, p to BOR, p50 (54, 56, body, and adding new stitches to help form the
58) (61, 63, 65) 68, then turn, make DS, k to armholes. Find your size below, and complete
BOR. Once at the BOR, knit one full round, the round as instructed.
picking up the DS and working them. All of this
is considered Round 18. Size A: k46, put 50 sts on a stitch holder for the
Rounds 19-22 (4 rounds): Knit around. rst sleeve, CO 8 sts, pm, CO 8 sts, k94, put 50
Round 23: *k6, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count sts on another stitch holder for the second
Table). sleeve, CO 8 sts, pm, CO 8 sts, k46. The sleeves
Rounds 24-29 (6 rounds): Knit around. are 12”/30.5 cm in circumference, and the
Round 30: *k7, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count body is 36”/91.5 cm in circumference.
Table).
Rounds 31-35 (5 rounds): Knit around. Size B: k48, put 52 sts on a stitch holder for the
Round 36: *k8, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count rst sleeve, CO 10 sts, pm, CO 10 sts, k99, put
Table). 52 sts on another stitch holder for the second
Rounds 37-40 (4 rounds): Knit around. sleeve, CO 10 sts, pm, CO 10 sts, k48. The
Round 41: This round adds a short row section sleeves are 13”/33 cm in circumference, and
to help with the t. k68 (71, 75, 77) (80, 83, 86) the body is 39”/99 cm in circumference.
89, then turn, make DS, p to BOR, p68 (71, 75,
77) (80, 83, 86) 89, then turn, make DS, k to Size C: k55, put 58 sts on a stitch holder for the
BOR. Once at the BOR, knit one full round, rst sleeve, CO 10 sts, pm, CO 10 sts, k110, put
picking up the DS and working them. All of this 58 sts on another stitch holder for the second
is considered Round 41. sleeve, CO 10 sts, pm, CO 10 sts, k55. The
Round 42: *k9, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count sleeves are 14”/35.5 cm in circumference, and
Table). the body is 43”/109 cm in circumference.
Rounds 43-47 (5 rounds): Knit around.
Round 48: *k10, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count Size D: k58, put 59 sts on a stitch holder for the
Table). rst sleeve, CO 12 sts, pm, CO 13 sts, k116, put
Rounds 49-54 (6 rounds): Knit around. 59 sts on another stitch holder for the second
Round 55: *k11, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count sleeve, CO 12 sts, pm, CO 13 sts, k58. The
Table). sleeves are 15”/38 cm in circumference, and
Rounds 56-61 (6 rounds): Knit around. the body is 47”/119.5 cm in circumference.

Round 62: Sizes A and B, go to Round 69. Sizes Size E: k63, put 69 sts on a stitch holder for the
C through H: *k12, kfb* rep (See Stitch Count rst sleeve, CO 12 sts, pm, CO 13 sts, k128, put
Table). 69 sts on another stitch holder for the second
Rounds 63-66 (4 rounds): Knit around. Sizes C sleeve, CO 12 sts, pm, CO 13 sts, k63. The
through E, go to Round 69. sleeves are 16.5”/42 cm in circumference, and
Round 68: the body is 51”/129.5 cm in circumference.
Size F: *k28, kfb* rep.
Size G: *k30, kfb* rep. Size F: k69, put 74 sts on a stitch holder for the
Size H: *k32, kfb* rep. rst sleeve, CO 14 sts, pm, CO 14 sts, k134, put
Remember to check the Stitch Count Table 74 sts on another stitch holder for the second
after this increase. sleeve, CO 14 sts, pm, CO 14 sts, k69. The
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 sleeves are 18”/45.5 cm in circumference, and 6. You have now decreased 3 times to narrow
the body is 55”/139.5 cm in circumference. down the waist, which reduces the body by
2”.
Size G: k73, put 78 sts on a stitch holder for the 7. These decreases are optional, and you can
rst sleeve, CO 15 sts, pm, CO 15 sts, k146, put always add more decreases, if desired.
78 sts on another stitch holder for the second
sleeve, CO 15 sts, pm, CO 15 sts, k73. The When you are 1” short of your desired length,
sleeves are 19”/48.5 cm in circumference, and work a *k1, p1* ribbing around for 6 rows, and
the body is 59”/150 cm in circumference. then BO.

Size H: k78, put 82 sts on a stitch holder for the Leave a 6” tail when you cut the yarn, and pull
rst sleeve, CO 16 sts, pm, CO 16 sts, k156, put this tail through the last loop of the bind off.
82 sts on another stitch holder for the second Follow these steps to clean the gap between
sleeve, CO 16 sts, pm, CO 16 sts, k78. The the tail loop and your rst BO stitch:
sleeves are 20”/51 cm in circumference, and 1. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.
the body is 63”/160 cm in circumference. 2. Insert the needle from the front to the back
of the rst BO stitch (the left stitch), and pull
The yoke is now complete, and you are ready it through.
to knit the body and the arms. 3. Then insert the needle from the front to the
back on the part of the stitch that remains
BODY behind where the tail comes through the
Knit every round with all the stitches on your loop. Pull the needle through.
needles after Round 69. Be sure to watch your 4. Pull the yarn tight enough, so you get the
round count by counting the rounds on the uninterrupted stitch look that nishes the
front of the sweater. The front rounds will give body of the sweater. Watch this video to
you the accurate count that’s included in the see a demonstration of this technique.
Stitch Count Table. See the Notes for more
information about counting rows/rounds. Now it is time to knit the sleeves one at a time.
1. Put the stitches from one of your stitch
If you want to add some shaping to the body, holders onto your short circular needles or
use the following steps to do so: double pointed needles. Circular needles
1. Knit 5” of the body. Measure from under are recommended.
the arm. 2. When you come to the space between the
2. On the next round when you are 4 sts stitches from the stitch holder and the
before the marker, k2tog, k2, sm, k2, k2tog. stitches you cast on for the body of the
Do this once under each arm for a total of 2 sweater, you do not want a gap. Watch this
times. video to see how to close that gap. Transfer
3. On the next round when you are 2 sts the picked up stitches to your right-hand
before the marker, k2tog, sm, k2tog. Do needle, so they can be worked in the next
this once under each arm for a total of 2 round.
times.
4. Continue knitting the body for 12 more Once you close the rst gap, pick up all of the
rounds. Repeat Steps 2 and 3. stitches you cast on under the sleeve as part of
5. Repeat Step 4 again for the third decrease. the body. Then close the second gap, and

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place a marker. You now have all of the sleeve Round 2: Knit around.
stitches on your needles. You should have:
At this point, the ribbing circumference
Size A: 72 sts Size E: 100 sts measures:
Size B: 78 sts Size F: 108 sts
Size C: 84 sts Size G: 114 sts Size A: 6”/15cm Size E: 8.5”/21.5cm
Size D: 90 sts Size H: 120 sts Size B: 6.5”/16.5cm Size F: 9”/23cm
Size C: 7”/18cm Size G: 9.5”/24cm
Knit the sleeves in the round until you reach Size D: 7.5”/19cm Size H: 10”/25.5cm
your wrist bone. See the Notes for more
information about the sleeve length. The ribbing is stretchy to t your wrist.

RIBBING Rounds 3-18 (16 rounds): *k1, p1* rep all the
Round 1: way around. BO.
Sizes A, C, E, F, H: k2tog all the way around the
sleeve stitches. Close the edge of the BO, as you did for the
Sizes B, D, G: k2tog all the way around until the BO on the body.
last 3 stitches, k3. (You may wish to change to
double pointed needles at this point.)

Size Approximate Yardage/Meterage

A 1050 yds (960 m)

B 1100 yds (1006 m)

C 1165 yds (1065 m)

D 1250 yds (1143 m)

E 1440 yds (1317 m)

F 1540 yds (1408 m)

G 1640 yds (1500 m)

H 1750 yds (1600 m)

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 STITCH COUNT A B C D E F G H

CO 110 116 120 126 140 146 156 166

After 4 kfb 132 138 144 150 168 174 186 198

After 5 kfb 154 161 168 175 196 203 217 231

After 6 kfb 176 184 192 200 224 232 248 264

After 7 kfb 198 207 216 225 252 261 279 297

After 8 kfb 220 230 240 250 280 290 310 330

After 9 kfb 242 253 264 275 308 319 341 363

After 10 kfb 264 276 288 300 336 348 372 396

After 11 kfb 286 299 312 325 364 377 403 429

After 12 kfb — — 336 350 392 406 434 462

After adding 14 sts — — — — — 420 448 476

Size Sleeve Circumference Body Circumference Number of Rows of Length of Body from
from Armpit to Wrist from Bust to Waist the Main Body Underarm to BO
(Unless You Use the Knitting from CO to
Decreases) BO

A 12” (30.5 cm) 36” (91.5 cm) 144 11” (28 cm)

B 13” (33 cm) 39” (99 cm) 153 13” (33 cm)

C 14” (35.5 cm) 43” (109 cm) 162 15” (38 cm)

D 15” (38 cm) 47” (119.5 cm) 171 16.5” (42 cm)

E 16.5” (42 cm) 51” (129.5 cm) 180 18” (45.5 cm)

F 18” (45.5 cm) 55” (139.5 cm) 189 20” (51 cm)

G 19” (48.5 cm) 59” (150 cm) 198 21” (53.5 cm)

H 20” (51 cm) 63” (160 cm) 206 22” (56 cm)

FINISHING

Clean up all your ends with a tapestry needle or crochet hook. Use the video on page 7, and close
up the neckline and the bind offs on both the body and sleeve ribbing. Then block the sweater.

If you want to embroider the yoke, proceed to the next section.

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 So you will have a sample to look at, the front of the sweater is shown in the image on the left, and
the back of the sweater is shown in the image on the right. You can add more owers and vines,
and the placement is completely up to you.

Embroidery:
There are two different ower stitches used in the embroidery: the Lazy Daisy with French Knot
centers and the Satin Stitch ower with Satin Stitch centers. All of the vines are Stem Stitch with Satin
Stitch leaves. The leaves on the Satin Stitch owers are created with the Satin Stitch made at an
angle. Then the stitches get smaller, as the leaf moves away from the ower.

VERY IMPORTANT – Regular knots at the end of embroidery oss will easily pull through a knitted
project. To begin embroidering a section or ower, make a “hefty” knot by tying a knot on top of a
knot at the end of your working oss, and pull it gently through the knitted piece, not through a
hole in the fabric, but through the yarn itself. As you add more threads to the ower, run your new
thread and knot through the back of the rst part of the ower to reinforce the threads. When you
nish a thread, pull it through the back of the center of the ower, and then tie it off in a knot. This
technique may not produce the most beautiful nishing on the backside, but it will hold when you
wear your sweater. Also, do not pull the embroidery tight on the knitted surface.

The image on the left is a close-up of the Lazy Daisy ower.

The French Knot center is made rst. Watch this video to
learn to make a French Knot. Make a group of them to form
the center of each Lazy Daisy ower. Visit this webpage to
learn more about the steps to create a Lazy Daisy ower.

These owers were made with about 14 petals using

embroidery oss. Do not thin out your oss. Use all six
strands straight from the oss hank. If you use DK or worsted
weight yarn scraps, you will probably have 10 petals. Use
colors that make you smile.

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 To make the Satin Stitch ower, you’ll thread all six
strands of the oss onto your needle. Then divide your
oss in half, and knot both ends together to work with
12 strands. You’ll then pull the oss up from the back
and down on the opposite edge where you want to
form the center. It is as if you are stitching a box. Make
sure all of the threads are running in the same
direction and that your stitches are placed closely
together in a straight, parallel manner that covers the
area.

Next, you’ll change the colors of your oss, and build

the petals. Notice that the owers are not perfect, just
like nature. You will make the petal stitches shorter on
the outside of the petal and longer towards the
middle of the petal. Work your way around the center of the ower creating 5-6 petals. Then using
the center thread, make stitches around the center to nish off the ower.

Use the image to the left to help you make the Satin
Stitch.

To make the Satin Stitch, imagine the edges of the

ower center.
1. Come up from the back.
2. Put the needle down on the opposite edge of the
ower center.
3. Then come out and up on the other edge of the
ower center.

Continue until you have lled in the area. Use this

same method to make the petals and leaves on the
vine.

Once you have embroidered several owers on the entire yoke or the entire sweater, you will need
to add leaves and stems. The stems are made with the Stem Stitch. When you work a Stem Stitch on
a knitted fabric, be sure to use complete knitted stitches to space the Stem Stitches. Look closely at
the Lazy Daisy image above, and note the spacing of each of the running stitches.

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Use the image below to understand the steps to make a Stem Stitch and see the spacing.

The Stem Stitch can be stitched straight, in a curve, or as

a loop. It’s your choice!

To make a Stem Stitch on a knitted surface, follow these

steps:
1. Bring the needle up from the back between stitches.
2. Keeping the oss below the needle, go over 2 full
stitches, and insert the needle.
3. Pull the needle back up between a complete stitch,
and pull through, but not too tightly.

Repeat these steps, and then look at the stem. Scatter

some leaves along the vines using the Satin Stitch.

It’s time to make the leaves that surround the Satin Stitch owers. The image on the left shows the
sequence to build those leaves. Using the same method that you used on the Satin Stitch owers,
thread your needle, and tie both ends together to make the leaves using 12 strands of oss.

Go between two petals of the ower, and make the rst stitch starting from the center of the leaf
and moving outwards. Then make the second stitch from the leaf center, and run it in the other
direction. Continue repeating these steps until you create a leaf of your desired length. Finally, add
the last stitch, which runs from the center of the leaf to the tip.

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Malvarosa 13 Expression Fiber Arts
 -CONNECT-
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©Expression Fiber Arts 2022. Finished items made using this pattern may be sold so long as pattern attribution is ascribed to Expression Fiber Arts.
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