TECHPACK OF CHICKENKARI KURTA
TECHPACK OF CHICKENKARI KURTA
TECHPACK OF CHICKENKARI KURTA
The Chickenkari kurta , a timeless garment from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India, is more
than just clothing. It’s a canvas that showcases the vibrant tradition of Chickenkari
embroidery, an art form passed down through generations.
Bill of Materials
Item &
# Quantity Color
Description
B Lining
Sleeve
Cuff
Bottom
Construction Sequence
Shoulder Attachment
Pin or clip the shoulder seams together. Sew the shoulder seams using a straight
stitch(SNLS 301) on your sewing machine. Press the seam allowances open.
Sleeve Attachment
Pin or clip the sleeve right sides together with the armhole on the bodice.
Sew the sleeve seam using SNLS 301, leaving the sleeve opening free.
Trim excess fabric and clip curves for a smooth finish.
Side Seam and Sleeve Side Serging
With right sides together, pin or clip the side seams of the kurta (bodice and sleeves
together).
Sew the side seams from the hem upwards, leaving the sleeve opening free, using SNLS 301.
Serge the raw edges of the sleeve hems using a serger (overlock 504) for a professional
finish.
Collar Attachment
Following the collar pattern to construct the plain collar pieces. Attach the collar to the
neckline of the bodice using SNLS 301. Press the seam allowances open and under
stitch the collar for a clean finish.
Simple Sleeve Cuff Formation And Attachment
Fold and hem the raw edge of the sleeve opening to desired length using SNLS 301,
creating a simple cuff.
Placket join
Make a placket and join with front part of the kurta.
Bottom Tail Hemming
Fold and hem the bottom of the kurta to desired length (1/2" from the edge) using
SNLS 301.
Points of Measurment
MEASURMENT
Points Size - L Tolerance
POINTS
D Hem 62 1/2"
P Placket Width 1 0
T Pocket Opening 6 0
If using heat sealing, the polybag must have three evenly spaced half-moon or butterfly
vent holes (1/4" diameter) for proper ventilation.
Finished Dimensions After Folding: Approximately 19" x 11"
Defect Analysis
Sleeve Attachment:
Sleeve Twist: The bodice and sleeves might be twisted slightly during sewing, causing
the side seam (where the sleeve meets the bodice) to not lie flat.
Uneven Sleeve Length: The sleeves might not be exactly the same length.
Uneven Sleeve Set-in: The way the sleeve is sewn into the armhole might not be smooth
or symmetrical on both sides.
Hemming (Bottom and Sleeve hems):
Uneven Hem: The hem might not be level all around the bottom or sleeve opening.
Wavy Hem Stitch: The stitching line of the hem might not be straight.
Uneven Hem Depth: The depth of the hem fold might not be consistent around the
entire hem.
General Stitching Defects
Uneven Stitches: Stitches that vary in length or are not straight can create a sloppy and
unprofessional look.
Missed Stitches: Areas where the sewing machine failed to pick up fabric and create a
stitch, leaving a gap in the seam.
Uneven Seam Allowance: Inconsistent width of the fabric left between the stitch line
and the raw edge of the fabric, especially around the cuff.
Puckering or Bunching: Fabric gathers or bulges along the seam due to uneven stitching
or improper fabric handling, particularly when attaching the cuff.
Additional Considerations
Thread Tension Issues: Improper thread tension can cause puckering, skipped stitches,
or broken thread, especially when sewing curves like the cuff.
Needle Selection: Using the wrong size or type of needle for the fabric can lead to
skipped stitches or fabric damage, impacting the cuff attachment.
Pressing Issues: Not pressing seams open properly after attaching the cuff can
contribute to bulkiness.