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TECHPACK OF CHICKENKARI KURTA

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TECHPACK OF CHICKENKARI KURTA

The Chickenkari kurta , a timeless garment from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India, is more
than just clothing. It’s a canvas that showcases the vibrant tradition of Chickenkari
embroidery, an art form passed down through generations.
Bill of Materials

Item &
# Quantity Color
Description

A Main Fabric 3.5 meter Ivory Cotton

B Lining

C Thread Ivory, 120 GSM,


4 Spool
100% Cotton
Callouts
Long sleeves with simple cuffs
Pllacket
Straight hem at bottom
Collar

Sleeve

Cuff

Bottom
Construction Sequence

Shoulder Attachment
Pin or clip the shoulder seams together. Sew the shoulder seams using a straight
stitch(SNLS 301) on your sewing machine. Press the seam allowances open.
Sleeve Attachment
Pin or clip the sleeve right sides together with the armhole on the bodice.
Sew the sleeve seam using SNLS 301, leaving the sleeve opening free.
Trim excess fabric and clip curves for a smooth finish.
Side Seam and Sleeve Side Serging
With right sides together, pin or clip the side seams of the kurta (bodice and sleeves
together).
Sew the side seams from the hem upwards, leaving the sleeve opening free, using SNLS 301.
Serge the raw edges of the sleeve hems using a serger (overlock 504) for a professional
finish.
Collar Attachment
Following the collar pattern to construct the plain collar pieces. Attach the collar to the
neckline of the bodice using SNLS 301. Press the seam allowances open and under
stitch the collar for a clean finish.
Simple Sleeve Cuff Formation And Attachment
Fold and hem the raw edge of the sleeve opening to desired length using SNLS 301,
creating a simple cuff.
Placket join
Make a placket and join with front part of the kurta.
Bottom Tail Hemming
Fold and hem the bottom of the kurta to desired length (1/2" from the edge) using
SNLS 301.
Points of Measurment

MEASURMENT
Points Size - L Tolerance
POINTS

A Length from HPS 50 1/2"

B Across Shoulder 181/2 1/4"

Chest 1" below


C 49 1/2"
armhole

D Hem 62 1/2"

E Side Slit length 18 1/4"

F Slit facing width 1 0

G Armhole Diagonal 10 1/4"

H Sleeve Length 24 1/2 1/2"

Bicep 1" below


I 16 1/2 1/4"
armhole
1/2 Sleeve
J 5 3/4 0
Opening

Sleeve Cuff Width


K 3 0
incl. trim patti

Sleeve Slit and


L 3 0
Facing Width

M Back Neck With 7 1/2 0

Front Neck Drop from


N 4 1/4 0
HPS

Centre Front Placket


O 11 1/2 0
length incl. tab

P Placket Width 1 0

Q Placket Tab L x W 11/4x1 0

Collar Band Width at


R 1 0
Centre Back

Pocket Placement from


S 21 1/2 1/4"
HPS

T Pocket Opening 6 0

U Pocket Bag L x W 11 x 6 1/2 0


Folding Instruction

Place garment face down.


Fold the right sleeve over onto the fold line. Fold the remaining portion back across
center.
Repeat for the left side.
Fold in half by bringing the bottom of the kurti up to the top.
Place the folded garment into a clear polypropylene polybag approximately 20" x 12".
Ensure no more than 1" of space exists between the garment and the bag.
Heat Sealing Option

If using heat sealing, the polybag must have three evenly spaced half-moon or butterfly
vent holes (1/4" diameter) for proper ventilation.
Finished Dimensions After Folding: Approximately 19" x 11"
Defect Analysis

Sleeve Attachment:
Sleeve Twist: The bodice and sleeves might be twisted slightly during sewing, causing
the side seam (where the sleeve meets the bodice) to not lie flat.
Uneven Sleeve Length: The sleeves might not be exactly the same length.
Uneven Sleeve Set-in: The way the sleeve is sewn into the armhole might not be smooth
or symmetrical on both sides.
Hemming (Bottom and Sleeve hems):
Uneven Hem: The hem might not be level all around the bottom or sleeve opening.
Wavy Hem Stitch: The stitching line of the hem might not be straight.
Uneven Hem Depth: The depth of the hem fold might not be consistent around the
entire hem.
General Stitching Defects

Uneven Stitches: Stitches that vary in length or are not straight can create a sloppy and
unprofessional look.
Missed Stitches: Areas where the sewing machine failed to pick up fabric and create a
stitch, leaving a gap in the seam.
Uneven Seam Allowance: Inconsistent width of the fabric left between the stitch line
and the raw edge of the fabric, especially around the cuff.
Puckering or Bunching: Fabric gathers or bulges along the seam due to uneven stitching
or improper fabric handling, particularly when attaching the cuff.
Additional Considerations

Thread Tension Issues: Improper thread tension can cause puckering, skipped stitches,
or broken thread, especially when sewing curves like the cuff.
Needle Selection: Using the wrong size or type of needle for the fabric can lead to
skipped stitches or fabric damage, impacting the cuff attachment.
Pressing Issues: Not pressing seams open properly after attaching the cuff can
contribute to bulkiness.

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