Course 2

UNIT 12 TEXTILE FINISHES

Structure
12.0 Objectives
12.1 Introduction
12.2 Classification of Finishes
12.3 Preparatory Processes
12.4 Routine Fabric Finishes
12.5 Finishes that Alter Appearance or Hand
12.6 Finishes Used For Improving Fabric Performance
12.7 Let Us Sum Up
12.8 Keywords
12.9 References and Suggested Readings
12.10 Check Your Progress – Possible Answers

12.0 OBJECTIVES
The objective of this Unit is to introduce you to the process of fabric
finishing. This Unit would make you aware about the journey of fabric from
loom to the consumer. It explains various processes that improves appearance
and performance of the fabric and increases consumer satisfaction. After
reading this Unit you would be able to:
• Understand the meaning of fabric finishing and its classification;
• Get acquainted with various kinds of finishes that are applied to the
fabric; and
• Get to know how finishes improve fabric performance.

12.1 INTRODUCTION
Fabric, as it comes out of the loom, generally does not possess properties like
colour, texture, smoothness and other desirable features and is known as
greige/gray fabric. This does not mean that the fabric is gray in color; it
simply means any unfinished fabric that contains impurities which should be
removed before further processing. Consumers desire to buy a fabric that
looks attractive and serves specific functions. In order to impart certain
desirable properties to the fabric and make it suitable for its intended end use
the fabric is given several kinds of finishing treatments. This process of
imparting desirable properties to the fabric so that it can satisfy the consumer
is called finishing. Most fabrics that reach consumer have undergone one or
more finishing treatments. Finishing processes are undertaken by highly
specialized companies called converters. Textile finishing depends on:

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• Fiber type Knitted Apparel
Technology
• Fiber arrangement in yarn and fabric and
• Physical and chemical properties of the fiber

The main objectives of textile finishing are to:

• Enhance the attractiveness and functionality of textile materials to make

it more acceptable to the consumer
• Impart desirable characteristics to textile materials to enhance their
suitability for specific end uses
• Improve the quality of fabric and make it more durable
• Set the fabric so that its shape and structure can be maintained

12.2 CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES

Fabric finishing is the process that changes, improves or develops the
appearance or desired characteristics in a fabric. Finishes for fabrics can be
classified in different ways (Fig. 12.1).

Fig. 12.1 Classification of Finishes

I - On the basis of the characteristics imparted to the fabric, finishes can be

of two types:

Routine finishes: These are the finishes that are applied to almost all
fabrics to improve their performance. Example: desizing, scouring and
bleaching to name a few.

Special finishes: These are the finishes that are applied to impart specific
properties to the fabric. Example: waterproofing.
Routine and special finishes can be further classified according to the
characteristics they impart to the fabrics. They can either be used to
enhance the aesthetic appeal of the textile material or impart some
functionality to them. Table 1 summarizes some of the most commonly
used routine and special finishes.

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Course 2 Table 1Classification of Routine and Special Finishes

Routine Finishes Special Finishes

Aesthetic Finishes Functional Finishes
Singeing Special calendaring Abrasion-resistant
Desizing Schreinering Absorbent
Scouring Moireing Durable press
Bleaching Embossing Flame-retardant
Sizing/Stiffening Napping Water repellent and water
proof
Degumming Softening Stain and soil resistant
Weighting Beetling Shrink-resistant
Tentering Optical brightening Soil release
Mercerization Brushing Ultraviolet protection
Calendering Shearing Moth proof
Carbonising Heat setting Antistatic
Crabbing Fulling/Milling Anti-slip
Decating Antimicrobial

II - On the basis of the method used to apply the finish, there can be two
types of finishes:

Mechanical Finish: These are the finishes that are applied using
physical principles such as friction, temperature, pressure, tension and
many others. Example: calendaring.

Chemical Finish: These are the finishes that are imparted with the use of
chemicals. Example: mercerization of cotton.

III - On the basis of durability of the finish on the fabric, the two types of
finishes are:

Permanent Finish: Finish that remains on the fabric for its life.
Example: crabbing of wool and durable press.

Temporary (renewable) finish: Finishes that remain on fabric for one or

two launderings only and need to be renewed to achieve the desirable
fabric property are temporary finishes. Example: sizing.

Fabric finishes can also be segregated on the basis of fiber type. In the
next section you would know about some of the routine fabric finishes.

12.3 PREPARATORY PROCESSES

As the fabric comes from the loom it involves careful examination of the
fabric for any imperfections. The first inspection is called perching. These
defects are usually repaired by hand. Some of these can be repaired quite
210 inconspicuously. A few flaws may require more repairs such as holes or
tears, broken yarns etc. This is done by the menders and is called mending. Knitted Apparel
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Burling is the process of removing any foreign matter such as burrs, loose
threads, knots etc.

Gray goods must be cleaned before they can be finished. They may contain
warp sizing, oils and other additives, dirt and soil. Complete removal is
necessary in order to finish, dye, and/or print the goods effectively. The
method of cleaning depends upon the fiber content of the fabric, the kind of
impurities present, and the construction of the fabric. For example, cotton
may be kiered or boiled, wool is carbonized and scoured, and silk is
degummed. Knit fabrics are generally dry-cleaned by solvent scouring. The
use of solvents is particularly desirable because they are recyclable, do not
impose a burden on local water and waste disposal systems and reduce
pollution effects.

12.4 ROUTINE FABRIC FINISHES

Also known as basic or preparatory finishes, all the fabrics undergo these
finishes to make them acceptable to consumers and prepare them for
subsequent processes like special finishes and colouration. These include
inspection, singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, stiffening, tentering and
many more that are discussed below. It is not necessary that all the fabrics
undergo each of these processes. The final list is decided by the finisher on
the basis of the market requirement.

Singeing
Singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics that consists of
burning off the fuzz or fiber ends on fabric in order to obtain a smooth
surface. Fabrics of natural and man-made staple fibers are singed when a
clear smooth surface appearance is desired. For these fabrics, singeing is the
first step in the total finishing operation.

Before singeing the cloth is brushed to remove loose fibers, lint, and dust.
The fabrics are singed in full width, under tension to keep the surface flat and
free of wrinkles, creases, and curled selvages. In the most common method,
the fabric is passed directly under an open gas flame. The fabric moves
rapidly at a speed of 230 to 270 yards per minute to burn off the protruding
ends. To prevent any damage from afterglow or sparks, the fabric
immediately enters a water bath leaving the singer.

Desizing
Preparatory process for weaving includes application of sizing agents on the
warp yarns prior to their placement on a warp beam for weaving. These
stiffening agents must be removed before further processing as they have a
waterproof property which impairs the wettability of the fabric and thus
hampers application of subsequent finishes and coloration. Removal of the
sizing material from warp yarns is called desizing.
The water bath into which the cloth is fed as it leaves the singer also acts as a
desizing bath. The desizing bath prevents afterglow and possible damage 211
Course 2 following singeing; it also saturates the cloth with enzymes. These enzymes
work on the stiffening or sizing agents and digest these compounds, making
it easy to remove them in the scouring and bleaching operation.

Scouring
Scouring means washing. A gray fabric may have certain inherent impurities
as well as acquired ones. Fabrics that are generally made of natural fibres
must be scoured to remove foreign materials that might be present like
natural waxes, dirt, processing oils and sizing compounds. For example, a
cotton woven fabric may contain natural waxes and pigments (inherent) as
well as dirt and oil (acquired) due to handling of hands and loom processing.
These can be removed by scouring.
For cotton, boiling water, soaps/alkaline builders as well as wetting agents,
are all used proportionately to obtain clean fabrics. Protein fabrics are treated
with neutral or slightly acidic chemicals since alkaline reagents can harm
them. Man-made fibers may be scoured to remove temporary colours that
were used for yarn and fabric identification.

Bleaching
Bleaching is chemical process of whitening the fabric by removal of natural
colouring matter. Natural fibers have greater degree of unwanted color as
compared to manufactured ones. Fabrics, yarns or fibers are bleached either
to make them white or to prepare them for dyeing or printing. Bleaching is
relatively durable when the bleaching method is appropriate to the
fiber/fibers involved.

Bleaches can be either oxidizing or reducing. Commonly used oxidising

bleaches include sodium hypochlorite, hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate
and potassium permanganate. Sunlight and ozone are also examples of
oxidizing bleaches. Salient among reducing bleaches are sodium
hydrosulphite, sodium bisulphate and sodium thiosulphate. The effect of
oxidizing bleach is more permanent than reducing bleach. The choice of the
bleaching agent and other conditions is made on the basis of substrate and the
degree of whitening required. Treatment with bleach must always be
followed by washing. This finish can also be applied by consumers on white
fabrics. Commercially available brands such as ‘Ala’ are easy to use and
produce quite satisfactory results.

Sizing/Stiffening
This finish imparts firmness and body to the fabrics. Although a basic finish,
stiffening may be done after coloration. Cellulosic fabrics can be stiffened
with starch (temporary) or resins (permanent). Starch or other sizes gives
weight to a fabric and can make an inferior product look attractive until
laundered. It also prevents fabrics from soiling quickly. These days easy to
use stiffening agents such as revive are available in the market. For stiffening
of silk, gums are used.

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Degumming Knitted Apparel
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Also known as silk scouring, degumming is the process of removing the
sericin, or silk gum, from silk in order to improve its colour, lustre and
texture. Degumming can be carried out on yarn or fabric.

Weighting
Weighting is a sizing technique applied to silk fabrics. After complete
degumming, silk become soft and light (silk gum sericin, which is removed
contributes 25% of the total weight). This loss in weight is compensated by
treating silk with suitable organic and inorganic compounds. To make heavy
or stiff materials, manufacturers resort to weighting the fabrics with metallic
salts, such as stannous chloride. Weighted silk has body and density, but the
fabrics are not as durable, for they are more sensitive to sunlight, air, and
perspiration damage. However, as a malpractice, some silks are weighed
above. This is harmful as it lowers the strength and luster of silk.

Tentering
Tentering is the mechanical straightening and drying of fabrics. This finish
follows any wet treatment. As the fabric leaves the liquid bath, it is stretched
between two parallel chains with pins or clips (this may leave small hole in
the selvedge). The chains spread apart to the desired fabric width, move with
the fabric through finishing or drying units, and release the fabric to be rolled
or folded onto cylinders. Fabrics may be tentered several times during
finishing and colouring. This occurs following bleaching, as a part of
mercerizing and as a part of the application of functional finishes. Heat
setting of man-made fabrics is frequently combined with tentering. Products
thus processed tend to keep their shape during use and care, and shrinkage
becomes minimal.

Mercerization
Mercerization is a chemical process applied to cellulosic textiles, especially
cotton and cotton blends. It is a finish that contributes luster to cotton and
increases the ease with which cotton accepts color and adds strength. The
process is named after John Mercer who discovered the effect of caustic soda
(alkali) treatment on cotton. The finish swells the fibers permanently, giving
them a round cross section that reflects light to create a gloss or sheen. The
natural twist of cotton fiber is largely removed. Mercerization can be carried
out at the yarn and fabric stage. Mercerization under tension produces fibers
with increased strength and increased affinity for dyestuffs, which is due to
the rounding of the fiber and the increased space between the fiber molecules.
This finish is given to cotton prior to dyeing. However, there is a market for
unmercerized cotton as well. ‘Muslin’ is such an example. It is used for
making quilt or mattress covers and for draping by students of clothing
courses.
Calendering
Calendering is applied to cottons, linens and silk as well as to rayon and other
man-made fiber fabrics. Pressing is the term used for wool fabrics. Basic
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Course 2 calendaring and pressing are mechanical processes and must be renewed after
each laundering or cleaning.

The finish is similar to ironing but is done with much greater pressure. It
gives a smooth surface to fabrics. Calendaring is done by feeding the fabric
between large rollers. One of these rolls is somewhat soft while a second roll
is firm and heated. The action is similar to the use of heated irons on fabric
placed on a padded ironing board.

Carbonizing
Carbonizing is a chemical finish applied to wool fabrics. Wool yarns and
fabrics frequently contain vegetable matter that was not completely removed
during carding. To eliminate this, manufactures immerse the wool fabric in a
solution of sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid. It is then subjected to high
temperatures for a brief time. The acid and heat react to convert the vegetable
matter to carbon which is easily removed by a final scouring and if necessary,
brushing. The fabric is then neutralized and rinsed.

Crabbing
A mechanical finish applied to woolen and worsted fabrics, crabbing
permanently sets the weave. The fabric is immersed in first hot, then cold,
water and passed between rollers. If properly fed into the rollers, the warp
and filling yarns are set at a true ninety degree angle to each other. Improper
crabbing contributes to “off-grain” fabric. Crabbing may reduce or eliminate
shrinkage in wool fabrics. It generally prevents uneven shrinkage.

Decating
Decating is a mechanical finish. On wool it is used to set the luster and
develop a permanent sheen. On rayons, silks, and blends it softens the hand
of the fabric and helps to set the grain in its proper relationship in the woven
structure. Decating may be done wet or dry. If luster is desired, wet decating
is used. The process involves exposure to heat, either hot water or steam,
followed by cold water or a blast of cold air.
Fulling/Milling
Fulling is a mechanical finish applied to wool to produce a compact fabric.
When wool is removed from the loom, it bears little resemblance to the fabric
that the consumer purchases being loose and hard in texture. To make the
fabric compact and soft manufacturers apply moisture, heat and friction. The
fabric yarns shrink together, and the fabric softens to the desired texture.
Heat Setting
Heat sensitive thermoplastic fibers are generally given a heat-setting finish to
ensure a stable fabric or as a means of producing a special shape. Though the
process is mechanical the heat changes the physical characteristics of the
polymer. Fabrics of 100% thermoplastic fibres or those of blends involving
heat-sensitive fibers are heat-set. A major reason for heat setting is to
introduce dimensional stability. The temperature, period of exposure, and the
amount of force used to hold the fabric in the desired shape and size during
214 setting affects the dimensional stability of the fabric.
Other characteristics introduced by heat setting include resiliency, which Knitted Apparel
Technology
contributes to wrinkle resistance; elastic recovery, which aids in size
retention and relatively permanent design details, such as pleats, planned
creases, or surface embossing.

Brushing
Brushing is a mechanical finish. It involves the removal of short, loose fibers
from the surface of the fabric. Cylinders covered with the bristles rotate over
the fabric, pick up loose fibers, and pull them away by either gravity or a
vacuum. This finish is usually applied to fabric of staple fiber content to give
a smooth and uniform appearance.

Shearing
Shearing is a mechanical process applied to some fabrics constructed from
staple length fibers. It involves cutting or shearing off undesirable surface
fibers or evening nap or pile. After singeing and subsequent processing, fiber
ends or loose fibers may protrude from the fabric surface. Shearing cuts off
these ends and permits a clear view of the weave. For pile fabrics, shearing
evens the surface to give a uniform appearance. By manipulating shearing it
is also possible to cut designs into pile fabrics.

Optical Brightening
Modern day fashion demands bright whites to catch the eyes of the consumer.
Most of the textile substrates have a yellowish tinge even after they have
been bleached, blued etc. In order to remove this yellow tint completely
optical brightening agents (OBA) are used to make white or light coloured
fabrics appear brighter. These compounds are colourless dyes that absorb the
invisible ultra-violet light and re emit it within the visible range (violet-blue
light) causing more blue light to be reflected due to which the material
appears brighter. Optical whiteners can be applied during the laundering
process.

Check Your Progress I

Note: Use the space provided for your answer
1. What do you understand by the term ‘finishing’?
2. Name a few preparatory finishes.
3. …………………………. is the removal of sizing.
4. ……………….. and ……………… are examples of oxidizing bleaches.
5. Silk fabrics undergo a sizing process known as ………………
6. Explain the process of tentering.
7. ……………….. is a chemical process applied to cellulosic fibers.
8. Alternative term used for calendering is ………………….
9. ………………… is the finish which sets the weave in wool.
10. ………………. is a mechanical finish applied to woolen fabrics to
produce a compact fabric. 215
Course 2
12.5 FINISHES THAT ALTER APPEARANCE OR
HAND
Special Calendering
The preparation of some fabrics involves special calendering - smoothing
under pressure – which imparts design to the fabric surface. Permanence or
durability of appearance depends on several factors: if fibers are
thermoplastic, the calendering can actually soften them and impart a
permanent design effect; if a resin is applied to the fabric, a durable calendar
design can be produced; if pressure alone is used on non-thermoplastic fibers,
the design will probably be lost during the first laundering.

Schreinering
Schreinering is produced by a special calendar. The metal roll has a series of
fine lines, about 250-300 per inch, engraved so they form an angle of roughly
twenty degrees to the construction of the cloth that are parallel to the twist in
the yarns. This finish produces a soft luster and is used frequently on
cellulosic fibers such as cotton and linen. In addition, the rolls flatten the
yarns and create a smooth and compact fabric.

Moireing
It is a finishing process that produces a waved or watered effect on a textile
fabric (Fig. 12.1). A moire finish is characterized by a soft luster and a design
created by differences in light reflection. Rib fabrics such as taffetas work
best in producing the moiré effect. Two rollers are involved-a large one
covered with cloth and a smaller one, which is heated and often includes an
engraved design. The ribbed fabric is doubled and fed between the two
rollers; these rollers exert pressure and add heat. The ribs in one thickness
impress images on the other thickness by flattening the ribs. If there is an
etched pattern on the heated metal roll, the design is transferred to the fabric.
A moiré finish on thermoplastic fibers, such as acetate or nylon, is durable.

Fig.12.1: Moireing Effect on Fabrics

Embossing
Embossed fabrics have three-dimensional designs. Before the introduction of
resin finishes, embossing lacked durability, but now resins aid in making
embossed patterns relatively permanent. Thermoplastic fibers produce fabrics
that hold embossed designs. For best results the base fabric used for
embossing should be a compact weave with a balanced structure.
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 Knitted Apparel
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Fig.12.2: Embossed Effect on Fabrics

Napping
Napping is applied to cotton, rayon, wool, and any other staple fiber yarns to
produce a deep nap. The process utilizes cylinders on which there are fine
metal wires with small hooks. These hooks pull fiber ends to the surface and
create the nap. Napping can be done either on one side or on both sides of the
fabric. Fabrics with napped surfaces include flannels, blankets, and some coat
and suiting cloth. Suede cloth may be made by napping the fabric and
shearing the nap to produce a smooth, compact, and uniform surface.

Softening Finishes
Softening finishes improve the hand and drape of a fabric. They may add
body, facilitate application of other finishes, subdue the coarseness imparted
during processing and increase the life and utility of the fabric. Batiste is an
example of a fabric treated with a softener.

Beetling
Beetling is a mechanical finish applied to cotton and linen fabrics. It
increases the luster of fabrics by flattening the yarns to provide more area for
light reflection. The fabric is fed over rolls that rotate in a machine where
large hammers rise and fall on the surface of the fabric. Continued pounding
flattens the yarns and closes the weave. The beetled finish will withstand
wear and maintenance if the fabric is laundered carefully and ironed with
pressure to restore the flat appearance.

12.6 FINISHES USED FOR IMPROVING FABRIC

PERFORMANCE
Abrasion-resistant Finish
Many of the newer manufactured fibers, particularly nylons, have inherent
resistance to abrasion. However, natural fibers and some man-made fibers
may be damaged by rubbing. To reduce this type of fabric damage,
manufacturers can blend fibers of high abrasion resistance with those of low
resistance, or they can apply soft thermoplastic resins, which appear to
increase the fabric’s resistance to abrasion damage.

Absorbent Finishes
Absorbent finishes increase the moisture-holding power of fabrics and
thereby accelerate the drying action of the textile produce. Fabrics treated
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Course 2 with these finishes can absorb more moisture than they normally would, but
the fabrics will take longer to dry either in the air or in a dryer owing to the
increase amount of moisture absorbed. Common applications include hosiery,
sportswear, sleep wear, towels, infant care, adult care products and diapers.

Durable-press
Durable –press refers to the ability of a fabric to retain an attractive
appearance during wear and to return to its original smooth surface and shape
after laundering. Clothes that can be washed in machine and worn without
any ironing have a great appeal for consumers. These characteristics can be
imparted to fabrics by finishing processes and by fiber choice. Fabric with
durable press can be laundered in washers and dried in dryers, and they
require little or no ironing. Including fabrics softeners in the final rinse or in
the dryer may help to maintain a smooth surface and reduce static cling.
Durable-press fabrics are available in nearly all types of apparel and in a wide
variety of home furnishing items. Most of these durable-press fabrics are
made of blends of cellulosic fibers, usually cotton, and polyester.

Flame-retardant Finish
Fire is a significant cause of damage to human life and property. To minimize
these losses, textile fibers that are flammable are treated with flame retardant
chemicals. Flame retardant finishes reduce the flaming, charring, or afterglow
of fibers and fabrics. Most fabrics finished with flame-retardants still will
burn in the direct path of flame; however, they self-extinguish when the
source of flame is removed, and they do not propagate the flame. A truly
fireproof fabric will not burn even in the path of direct flame, but, actually,
only asbestos and glass fiber have this property.

Water-repellent and Waterproof Finishes

Waterproof finishes are those that coat or seal a fabric so that water does not
pass through it. Such fabrics are impermeable to air and thus, are not
comfortable in wearing apparel. Water-repellent finishes result in a fabric that
resists wetting while retaining a porous characteristic that permits air
circulation. The finish alters surface tension properties of the fabric, which
causes moisture to form into tiny balls of water and roll off without passing
though the fabric. Water-resistant or water repellent finishes are popular in
consumer goods because the fabrics are comfortable and the finish does not
alter the original appearance.

Stain and Soil-resistant Finishes

These finishes help to maintain a clean look of a textile product like clothes,
carpets or upholstery. Chemicals such as fluorocarbons are used to coat the
fabric surface. Thus, a protective coating is formed which inhibits penetration
of stains and soil.

Shrink-resistant Finishes
The term ‘shrinkage’ means reduction in length or width of the fiber, yarn or
fabric. As you have studied in Block 2 of this Course that in the weaving
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operation, warp yarns are held under tension on the loom. When a woven Knitted Apparel
Technology
fabric is immersed in water, it relaxes with the warp yarns jumping back to
their original length. This cause warp wise shrinkage referred to as relaxation
shrinkage. Generally, the first wash leads to some shrinkage and fabrics are
stable in their dimensions after that. In other words, a major part of potential
shrinkage is exhausted in the first wash. However, in some fabrics certain
degree of shrinkage still remains. This is referred to as residual shrinkage and
may be exhibited in subsequent washes (progressive shrinkage).
Shrinkage Control in Cotton and Linen
In the simplest treatment, the fabric is immersed in water and left for a while.
It is then dried in a tension less state. Ironing or basic calendering follows.
For example, lining fabric bought for lining women’s suits is pre-shrunk by
this method. In case of cheaper fabrics this step also serves a second purpose
i.e. removal of unfixed dye. Compressive Shrinkage control or Sanforisation
is the most common method employed on a commercial scale. Fabrics given
this treatment are often stamped as sanforised.
Soil-release Finish
This finish allows the stains to leave the fabric faster during laundering. A
fabric protector is imparted to the fabric that enables it to repel soil and stains
on contact. It does not prevent soil from entering the fabric but it simply
allows it to leave faster while in case of stain resistant finishes a coating is
applied to the fabric surface thus preventing the soil from entering the fabric.
Soil release finishes can be found on many industrial or service garments.
Soil release finishes make the fabric soft and also prevent redeposition of
soil.
Ultraviolet protection Finishes
Ultraviolet (UV) radiations are harmful for human skin and long term
exposure to UV light can cause sun burns, skin cancer, acceleration of skin
ageing, acne etc. Hence protection of skin against these has become relatively
important. A sun protection finish is applied in the form of UV
stabilizers/absorbers which are organic or inorganic colourless compounds
with very strong absorption. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of
textiles depends on their construction, fiber type, colour, swelling capacity of
fibers and the spaces between the yarns. Higher the UPF, more protective the
fabric will be against UV radiation. Cotton and silk offer less protection
against UV radiations compared to wool and polyester. Since the most
probable time for long term exposure to sun is in summer, UV protection
finishes are mainly applied to lightweight woven and knitted fabrics used for
producing swim wear, beach wear, sportswear etc.
Moth Proof Finishes
This finish is given to prevent the growth of moth mainly on wool fabrics. It
is a chemical finish and may be given by using inorganic or organic
compounds which can be of natural or synthetic origin. Alternatively,
chemicals could be used to alter the composition of wool, since wool’s
sulphur containing amino acid is the main reason of attack by moths. This
would, however, affect other properties of wool also.
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Course 2 Antistatic Finishes
Static charge build up is a problem encountered by synthetic fibers/fabrics at
the manufacturers’ level as well as by the consumers. There are many ways
to tackle this problem. Finishes may be applied to neutralize the charges on
the fiber, improve the surface conductivity or by making the surface
hydrophilic. Water is a good conductor of electricity and can diffuse the static
buildup. Antistatic finishes can be temporary or permanent. However, most
of them are non-durable and should be replaced after each laundering.
Antistatic finishes are mainly applied to products such as carpets, conveyor
belts, parachute fabrics, airbags, upholstery fabrics, fabrics for hospital
operating rooms and protective clothing.
Anti-slip Finishes
Yarn slippage is a problem that leads to fraying at the seams in woven
fabrics. A low fabric count, unbalanced construction and tight fit in garments
can further aggravate this problem. This is also a problem faced by smooth
filaments as in rayon. To overcome this problem anti slip finishes are applied
as their main effect is to increase adhesion between fibres and yarns
regardless of fabric construction. Resins of urea or melamine formaldehyde
are applied to bind the yarns in their places.
Antimicrobial Finishes
Today’s consumer demands for comfortable and hygienic clothing. Odour is
also an important consideration while making a purchase. That is why fabrics
treated with antimicrobial finish are much in demand. Antimicrobial finishes,
also referred to as bacteriostatic or antiseptic finishes, suppress growth of
microbes, including disease and rot causing bacteria as well as mildew
producing fungi. Unpleasant odour, spread of diseases can be reduced by
applying antimicrobial finish to textile materials. For example, shoe linings
are given this finish to prevent the ‘athlete’s foot’, an ailment common in
sports person. Socks are given the antimicrobial finish to combat the problem
of foul odour caused by heavy perspiration. Home textiles benefit from this
finish since it curbs the musty odours and discolouration brought about by
microbe attack. Thus, towels, bed sheets, pillow covers, blankets, and carpets
are given this finish.

Check Your Progress II

Note: Use the space provided for your answer
1. Heat setting finish contributes to wrinkle resistance and …………..
2. ……….. is a mechanical process applied to some fabrics constructed
from ………. length fibers.
3. Name the fabric which works best in moire finish.
4. …………….. fibers produce fabrics that hold embossed patterns.
5. Give examples of fabrics with napping finish.
……………………………………………………………………………
……………………………………………………………………………
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6. ………….. is an example of a fabric treated with a softener. Knitted Apparel
Technology
7. …………….. is resistant to abrasion.
8. …………….. refers to the ability of a fabric to retain an attractive
appearance during wear and to return to its original smooth surface and
shape after laundering.
9. What is the difference between fire retardant and fire proof fabrics?
……………………………………………………………………………
……………………………………………………………………………
……………………………………………………………………………
10. …………… finishes resist wetting while retaining a porous
characteristic that permit air circulation.
11. ……………… means reduction in length or width of the fiber, yarn or
fabric.

12.7 LET US SUM UP

Fabric as it comes out of the loom is not desirable in terms of appearance and
performance. Before it reaches consumers, fabric undergoes series of
finishing processes that improve its appearance and performance. Finishes
that are chosen to be applied onto a fabric are dependent on fiber type and the
end use. There are certain finishes that are given to most of the fabrics to
improve their appearance. Certain finishes are applied to impart specific
performance properties to the fabric. Finishes can be applied by use of
physical forces or by reaction with chemicals. Certain finishes alter the
structure of fabric and remain on it for its life. While some finishes can be
washed away during laundering and need to be reapplied to maintain fabric
performance.

Colour application like dyeing and printing are also fabric finishes but would
be discussed in detail in the next Unit.

12.8 KEYWORDS
Degumming: It is a process in which soap and water are used to remove the
gum from the yarn or the fabric
Embossed: A surface which is visible in the form of 3D design

12.9 REFERENCES AND SUGGESTED

READINGS
Joseph, M.L. (1988). Essentials of Textiles.6thedn. Florida: Holt, Rinehart and
Winston Inc.

Sekhri, S. (2011). Text Book of Fabric Science. New Delhi: PHI Learning
Private Limited.

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Course 2
13.10 CHECK YOUR PROGRESS – POSSIBLE
ANSWERS
Check Your Progress I
1. The process of imparting desirable properties to the fabric so that it can
satisfy the consumer is called finishing.
2. Some of the preparatory finishes are singeing, desizing, sourcing,
bleaching, basic calendering, mercerization and weighting.
3. Desizing
4. Sunlight and ozone
5. Weighting
6. Tentering is the mechanical straightening and drying of fabrics. The
fabric leaves the liquid bath, it is stretched between two parallel chains
with pins or clips. The chains spread apart to the desired fabric width,
move with the fabric through finishing or drying units, and release the
fabric to be rolled or folded onto cylinders. The distance between the
chains is adjusted to get the desired width and the fabric is carried to the
drying chambers.
7. Mercerization
8. Pressing
9. Crabbing
10. Fulling
Check Your Progress II
1. Elastic recovery
2. Shearing, staple
3. Taffeta
4. Thermoplastic
5. Flannels, blankets, coats and suiting cloth
6. Batiste
7. Nylon
8. Durable press
9. Fire retardant fabrics extinguish when the source of the flame is removed
and they do not propagate the flame, whereas a fire proof fabric will not
burn even in the path of the direct flame. Example: asbestos and glass
fiber.
10. Water repellent
11. Shrinkage

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