Gems
Gems
Gems
(em-er-ald) 12th c.; gr. smaragdos, sem. barequeth; sansk. maragdam Precious stone of the beryl family with an attractive green color Color Medium-light to medium-dark tones of green Family Beryl Chemical composition Be3Al2(SiO3)6 Crystal system Hexagonal Hardness (Mohs scale) 7,5 - 8 Specific gravity 2,71 0,04 Refractive index 1,577 - 1,583 -0,012 +0,016 Birefringence 0,005 to 0,009 Optical character Uniaxial -
Emerald is the most valuable type of beryl. It is colored by minute traces of chromium and vanadium. The history of the emerald is as fascinating as it is voluminous. The name emerald is a derivative of an ancient Persian word, coming to us through the corruption of the Latin Smaragdus . The ancients prized it as the symbol of love, rebirth and eternal youth. Because the rich green color of emerald reminds of spring, it has been treasured for at least the past 4,000 years by different cultures all around the world. The first emerald mines recorded in history are the famous Cleopatra mines rediscovered in 1818 in Northern Egypt. These ancient mines were exhausted long ago. The emerald mines in Colombia have a history somewhat similar to those in Egypt. When the Spaniards conquered the Incas, they saw emeralds in their possession, but even under torture, these never revealed their source. Years later, one mine in the Chivor area in Colombia was discovered quite by accident Pliny wrote, nothing is more intense than the green of emerald and sight is refreshed and restored by gazing upon this stone. Following his advise, Roman emperor Nero wore emerald sunglasses to watch the gladiators. Emerald is said to give a supernatural ability to foretell future events. A surprising variety of virtues have been ascribed to emerald. Among these, emerald was thought to improve its owners memory and eloquence, and was also said to quicken intelligence. In a particular instance of emeralds use, as a measure against ills, women wearing the stone were believed to be immune from epilepsy. The Moguls of India loved emeralds so much that they inscribed them with sacred texts and wore them as talismans. This led to the flourishing Jaipur cutting industry. Although many people consider Colombia to be the source of the best emeralds, the country of origin is never a guarantee of quality. Brazil , Zambia, Zimbabwe, Afghanistan and Russia are also producers of fine quality stones. The extreme rarity of transparent emerald is why inclusions in emeralds are tolerated. These inclusions are like a fingerprint, giving each emerald a distinct personality. They are called garden from the French jardin . Fissures and fractures that are characteristic of emerald are traditionally filled with oil to minimize their visual impact. Cleaning emerald with an ultrasonic cleaner can remove or damage the oil, thus making the fissures more visible. Emerald is the birthstone for May.
Ancient emeralds were extracted from mines in Egypt and perhaps in what is now Afghanistan. Some emeralds in old European jewels originate from the ancient mines of Habachtal in the Austrian Alps. These mines are now exhausted. Colombia was the source of the famous Incas emeralds and today, the area of Chivor, with its famous mines Cosquez and Muzo, still produces the finest emeralds in the world. Zambian emeralds, with their deep color and sometime blue tinge have less inclusions. The famous Sandawana mines in Zimbabwe produce some exceptional quality emeralds but very few exceed one carat in size. Brazil became the main producer of medium to high quality stones with some very fine specimens coming from the Nova Era mining area. Other potentially important producers of emerald are Afghanistan with its Panjshir mines, Madagascar, Pakistan, Nigeria and Russia.
Emeralds are cut in the mining countries, and in Jaipur (India) and Tel-Aviv (Israel). This precious stone is one of the most difficult gemstone to cut because of the many inclusions and color zonings. When choosing an emerald, the most important factor to consider is color. The more vivid the green, the more valuable the stone. Attractive bright stones with a lighter green color are in this moment in fashion. Darker green emeralds with a rich color may also produce very attractive pieces. Oiling makes fissures less visible. Avoid emeralds with fissures which go deep into the stone, because it makes the stone very sensible to accidental shocks.
Sapphire
Gemology
(saff'-ir) 12th c.; lat. sapphirus; gr. sappheiros; sem. sappr Precious stone, a clear variety of corundum that is usually blue but may be any color except red Color All colors except red (ruby) Family Corundum Chemical composition Al2O3 Crystal system Hexagonal Hardness (Mohs scale) 9 Specific gravity 4 0,05 Refractive index 1,762 - 1,770 +0,008 - 0,004 Birefringence 0,008 Optical character Uniaxial -
Sapphires occur in many different colors but the most famous and valuable of sapphires is a rich intense blue. The others colors will be referred to as fancy colors. Sapphire has been treasured for thousands of years. The ancient Persians believed that the
earth rested on a giant sapphire and its reflection colored the sky. Sapphire has long symbolized truth, sincerity, and faithfulness. The Tradition holds that Moses was given the ten commandments on tablets of sapphire, making it the most sacred gemstone. Because sapphires represent divine favor, they were the gemstone of choice for kings and high priests. The British Crown Jewels are full of large blue sapphires, and even more recently Prince Charles chose a sapphire engagement ring for Princess Diana. Sapphire was thought to have strong medical powers. At one time it was credited to remove all impurities and foreign matter from the eye. The ancients regarded star sapphires as a very powerful talisman, a guiding star for travelers and seekers of all kinds. Sapphire is the birthstone for September, but ancient lists also name sapphire as a birthstone for April and the gemstone for the sign of Taurus.
Sapphires come from Sri Lanka, Thailand, Australia, and Cambodia. Nigeria, Kenya, Tanzania, China, Vietnam, Madagascar. The United States also produces some sapphire, mostly in small sizes and fancy colors. The most famous sources for sapphire are Cashmere and Burma, now known as Myanmar. Cashmere sapphire has a rich velvety color prized by connoisseurs. Burma sapphires, from the same region that produces fabulous rubies, are also very fine. However, today, these two sources account only for a very small quantity of the sapphire on the market. Most fine sapphire on the market today come from Sri Lanka and Madagascar, which produce a wide range of beautiful blues, from delicate sky blue colors to rich saturated hues. Sri Lanka and Tanzania are also a major supplier of fancy colored sapphires, such as the famous padparadshah (orange-pink color). Kanchanaburi in Thailand and Pailin in Cambodia are renowned for deep blue, even colors. Thailand is the world's most important sapphire heating and trading center. Some of the largest sapphire cutting factories are in the Chanthaburi area of Thailand.
Madagascar is now one of the main supplier of the world market .It has produced some exceptionally fine stones in all sizes but has still little organized mining. Many of these Madagascar stones are presently sold to Sri Lanka dealers who market them in Sri Lanka as original Sri Lanka stones. Tanzania, which has long produced sapphires in other colors, is also starting to produce blue colors from a new deposit in the south.
The most valuable sapphires have a medium intense, vivid blue color. Any black, gray, or green overtones mixed in with the blue will reduce a stone's value. In general, a more pastel blue would be less preferred to a vivid blue, but it would be priced higher than an over dark blackish blue color. As with all gemstones, cut can affect greatly the visual appearance, and sapphires with good proportions and color balance and which have no or barely visible inclusions are the most valuable. However, some very fine sapphires, in particular those from Cashmere, have a velvety mistlike texture which enhances the richness of the blue. Other popular shades for sapphires are yellow, bright orange, lavender and purple, or a bluish green color. Generally, the more clear and vivid the color, the more valuable the sapphire. If the color is in the pastel range, because in lighter tones inclusions are more noticeable, for a better sapphire, the clarity should be good. In a lighter colored gemstone, the cut is also more important: it should reflect light back evenly across the face of the stone, making it lively and brilliant. With darker, more intense colors, the cut is not as critical because the color creates its own impact.
Sapphires with an unusual kind of tiny needle-like inclusions can be cut in a cabochon shape to display a dancing six-rayed white star. As with rubies, star sapphires are judged by the sharpness of the star, the evenness of the rays or "legs" of the star, and the body color of the stone. Sapphires have become more available in the past twenty years because some light, cloudy, or over dark sapphire can now be heated at very high temperatures to improve the color or clarity. This process, which dissolves trace elements already present in the sapphire, is completely stable. There is no price difference between heated and non-heated material except for at the very top end of the market. About 90 percent of the blue sapphire on the market today has been heated to make sure it has reached the best possible color and clarity.
Diamond
('di-mond) 12th c.; lat. adiamantem, gr. adamas Precious stone, generally colorless, made of pure crystallized carbon, of very high hardness and refractive index Color Colorless to slightly yellow, may occur in other colors Family Diamond Chemical composition C
Crystal system Cubic Hardness (Mohs scale) 10 Specific gravity 3,52 0,01 Refractive index 2,417 Birefringence None Optical character Single refractive
Think only of Marilyn Monroe and her song "Diamonds are a girl's best friend, or Shirley Bassey and "Diamonds are forever": both these popular modern songs reflect the everlasting fascination that we have for this gem. It would be impossible to give an exhaustive account of it. Here are just some facets of this powerful symbol. The word diamond comes from the Greek word adamas meaning unconquerable or invincible. Interestingly, its Aryan root dam, to tame or subdue, is also the basis of the word madam. The adjective "adamas" was employed to describe the hardest substance known and became synonymous with the gem, in reference to the hardness of this stone made of carbon, a chemical element fundamental to all life, here in its most concentrated form. We commonly associate with this natural crystalline mineral wealth, prosperity, social status, and love but lightning, magic, healing, protection and poisoning are also evoked in other cultures or in other times. It will always be the oldest item that anyone can own, from 50 million years old for the most recent deposits to 2.5 billion years for the oldest. Formed more than 100 miles below the surface of the Earth and shot to the surface by volcanoes, it is also a strategic and high-tech material. The myths and facts associated with the diamond transcends cultures and continents, and the prominence of this stone is inscribed in the Greek, Indian, English, French, German, Hebrew, Latin, Arabic, Japanese, American, African, Korean, Polish, and Chinese cultures, among others. The worlds first known reference to this gemstone comes from a Sanskrit manuscript, the Arthsastra (which translates as The Lesson of Profit) written by Kautiliya, a minister to Chandragupta of the Mauryan Dynasty (322 BC 185 BC).
Roman literature makes its first distinct mention of diamonds only in the first century AD, in reference to the alluvial diamonds found in India and Borneo. The ancient Greeks and Romans believed they were tears of the Gods and splinters from falling stars. Cupids' arrows were supposed to be tipped with diamonds, having thus a magic that nothing else can equal. Plato wrote about diamonds as living beings, embodying celestial spirits.
The Hindus believed that they were created when bolts of lightning struck rocks. They even placed some in the eyes of some of their statues. Jewish high priests turned to diamonds to decide the innocence or guilt of the accused: a stone held before a guilty person was supposed to dull and darken, while when held before an innocent one to glow with increased brilliance The Romans wore diamonds because these were thought to possess broad magical powers over lifes troubles, being able in particular to give to the wearer strength, invincibility, bravery, and courage during battle. Kings, in old days, led the battles on the battlefields wearing heavy leather breastplates studded with diamonds and other precious stones because it was believed that diamonds possessed God given magical qualities and powers far beyond the understanding of common man. Thus, warriors stayed clear of Kings and those who were fortunate enough to have the magical diamonds in their breastplates. An act of Louis IX of France (1214-1270) that established a sumptuary law reserving diamonds for the King, which indicates the rarity of this stone and the value conferred on it at that time. Until the 14th Century only Kings could wear diamonds, because they stood for strength, courage and invincibility. Since then that this gem has acquired its present status as the ultimate gift of love. Small numbers of diamonds began appearing in the 14th century in European regalia and jewelry, set mainly as an accent point among pearls. But the possession of extraordinarily large and noble diamonds was always the privilege of royal houses and particularly rich families. To give just an example, the imperial crown of the Russian czarina Catherine the Second (1729-1796) was mounted with 4936 sparkling stones. In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, every ring set with a precious stone was not considered as much a piece of jewelry, but more as an amulet that bestowed magical powers upon its wearer. When set in gold and worn on the left side, it was believed that the diamond held the power to drive away nightmares, to ward off devils, phantoms and soothe savage beasts. A house or garden touched at each corner with a diamond was supposed to be protected from lightning, storms and blight.
Diamonds were also supposed to impart virtue, generosity, as well as to calm the mentally ill and even to determine lawsuits in the wearer's favor. Not only was it commonly believed that diamonds could bring luck and success, but also that they could counter the effects of astrological events. Minerals were among the first medicinal ingredients. In the middle Ages, it was believed that a diamond could heal the sick person that took it into his/her bed and warmed it with the body. Even tough diamonds were worn as a talisman against poisoning, diamond powder administered internally, was however a legendary poison. The son of the Turkish Sultan Bajazet (1447-1513) was said to have murdered his father pouring a large quantity of powdered diamond in his father's food. In l532, Pope Clement VIIs doctors dosed him with fourteen spoonfuls of pulverized gems, including diamond, which resulted in death for the patient. In the same century, Catherine de Medici was famous for dealing out death by diamond powder, and Benvenuto Cellini, the famous Italian goldsmith, described an attempt on his life by an enemy who ordered diamond powder to be mixed in his salad. The association of diamonds with poison may have been promoted to discourage the practice of stealing diamonds by swallowing them, particularly during mining. Diamond is the birthstone for the month of April and also the gemstone for the American State of Arkansas.
Diamonds were first discovered in India, probably around 800 B.C. Until 1725, Indias market city of the diamond trade, Golconda, was fabled to be the source of these gems. In fact, these diamonds were mined in the surroundings of this city. Smaller quantities also came from Kalimantan (Borneo). The primary volcanic source of these gems was never discovered during the almost 2500 years in which the Indian sub-continent was the only producer of diamonds. These alluvial deposits were rich enough to supply the world until the eighteenth century. Before the Portuguese discovery of a direct sea route to India, diamonds reached Venice by two Mediterranean routes: a southern route by way of Aden, Ethiopia and Egypt; and a northern route, through Arabia, Persia, Armenia and Turkey. A diamond-cutters guild was established in Antwerp., helping this city flourish as a diamond center with vast supply of rough arriving from Lisbon as well as from Venice, and later from London, as the English fortified their interest in India in the late 1600s. Only one exception: after the attacks on Antwerp in 1585 by the Spanish army, many diamond cutters moved to
Amsterdam. Diamond craftsmen, many of them Jews fleeing religious persecution in Spain, Portugal, Germany and Poland, were attracted by the liberal policies of the Netherlands. But a change in fiscal policies in the Low Countries caused diamond cutters and traders to move back to Antwerp.. Today, this city handles more than 80% of the worlds rough diamonds, as well as half of its polished diamonds, continuing thus a tradition of over 500 years of cutting and trading.
As the Indian production started to wane, diamonds were discovered in 1725 in Brazil. These deposits were able to maintain a steady supply of small stones after 1730. Large quantities of significant size stones appeared on the market only with the exploitation of the South African diamond fields from 1866 onwards. The discovery of these deposits also led to the first sudden increase in supply. This increase coincided with the new wealth generated by the Industrial Revolution and the corresponding rise in the demand for luxury goods by a broader range of consumers. South Africa's alluvial diamond deposits were discovered near the Orange River. Further exploration in the Kimberley region revealed for the first time volcanic formations called "pipes" filled with an unknown type of rock that contained diamonds. This rock, a variety of peridotite, was named "Kimberlite" after the region of its first discovery, was recognized as the diamonds source. Only Western Australian diamonds have a different source, which is a closely related rock type, lamproite. The discoveries in South Africa led to a rush of prospectors staking out numerous claims. Mining by hazardous open-pit operations prevented rational exploitation of the diamond fields. In 1889, Cecil Rhodes and Barney Barnato bought out these claims and merged their interests in De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd. in South Africa, establishing a monopoly on the diamond trade that remains today. In 1992, a whole new field of diamantiferous kimberlite pipes was discovered in the Northern Transvaal, and in 1993 production has moved to a peak of 5 millions carats, scheduled to be maintained for the next 20 years.Nevertheless, on the world market the South African diamond output is today rivaled by exploitation of the major deposits that were found in Australia, today the worlds main producer with an output average of over 25 millions carats annually, approximately 25 % of annual world production. Worldwide famous, the Australian Argyle mine was able to produce 42 millions carats in 1994. Other pipes in the same region are under evaluation. The Argyle mine is also famous for the high percentage of yellow and brown material, known also under the name of Champagne and Cognac, and the constant recovery of a small amount of pink to red stones.
This pink to red material is sold as cut stones in private auctions, or tenders. Viewings are held annually in New York, Sydney, Hong Kong, Tokyo, London and Geneva, where polished pink diamonds with an average weight of about one carat, typically achieve prices in the 100 000 USD per carat. To put the rarity of these diamonds into perspective, about one carat in one million produced in this mine is suitable for sale at these auctions.
Since 1829, diamond production has also begun in Russia with the discovery of alluvial diamond deposits in the Northern part of the Ural Mountains. But it was not until 1954 that abundant kimberlite pipes were discovered in the permafrost of Yakutia, Siberia. Yakutia adopted in 1992 a new Constitution, and was renamed the Republic of Sakha. This Republic is today another leader in diamond mining: it produces 99% of Russian diamonds, accounting to 20% of the world diamond mining. The Russian diamond mining and processing industry, at the initiative of the government, is developed without foreign participation. Its main deposits are situated in the Western part of Sakha (990 thousand square km), where 18 kimberlite fields were found. Uduchnaya, Mir, Aikhal, Internacionalnaya, Jubileinaya diamond pipes, are well known around the world, earning to this vast region in the Sakha Republic the name of the diamond province. South Africa is not the only producer in its continent. Many alluvial deposits or kimberlite pipes have been found in other countries, especially Namibia, Angola, Botswana, the Democratic Republic of Congo (formerly Zaire), Tanzania, Ghana, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Gabon, Cameron, the Central African Republic and Zimbabwe. Botswana with its Orapa mine, produce yearly and average amount of 5 Millions carats, while the Kalahari Desert Jwaneng mine produces 6 millions carats per year. Democratic Republic of Congo (formerly Zaire) with its production of mainly low grade and industrial quality is the second biggest world diamond producer after Australia. Angola, another important diamond producer, exports up to 2 millions carats of good quality annually, but its uncertain political situation has hindered organized mining and prospecting. With the recent peace underway, there is no doubt that Angola will be a big player in the international diamond market. Ghana has always produced more diamonds than the other West African countries but for the most part these stones are much smaller. Their value per carat varied from 10 to 20 USD compared 250 to 300 USD for stones from Sierra Leone where large and exceptional quality diamonds are produced since 1935. Liberia, a small size producer from the end of the 90s represents a special case. Many of the diamonds exported from this country until mid 2002 are the so-called blood diamonds or conflict diamonds. This appellation means sold by rebels and governments to fund their war campaigns, principally in Sierra Leone. To a broader extend, these names were also applied to diamonds from Angola and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The international community, concerned about the increasing negative impact on the
consumer, took measures, signed in Interlaken, Switzerland, by more than 50 nations involved in the diamond trade to stop this diamonds for weapons trade. The resulting agreement, known as the Kimberley Process, started since January 1, 2003. It proposes an independent certification expert system for tracking rough diamonds origin. But recent peace treaty between belligerents in Angola and the withdrawal of foreign armies in Democratic Republic of Congo will hopefully put an end to this trade. Diamonds are also found in the United States in Arkansas, California, Colorado, and North Carolina. In 1990, extensive diamond pipes were found in Canada's Northwest Territories. Today Western Canada is the site of the world's newest diamond rush. Diamond cutting centers are found all over the world, most notably in Belgium, India, Israel, South Africa, Thailand, China and the USA.
The 4 Cs The price of a diamond is determined by four main factors, forming what is called call the 4 Cs: Carat weight, Clarity, Color and Cut. We highly advise you to look up specialized books or publications before proceeding to evaluate diamonds offered for sale. The following facts about diamonds correspond only to the minimum knowledge you should possess on this subject when choosing a diamond.
Carat weight The first criterion when deciding a diamonds value. Weight is always expressed in carats (1ct = 0,20g) and in its subdivisions, the points (1point = 0,01ct). The carat value rises with the weight, because big stones are more rare than smaller ones. For diamonds of the same quality, the cost of two half-carat stones is less than that of a single one-carat piece. Clarity Clarity is defined by the absence of inclusions visible with the unaided eye or through 10X magnification. Clarity is defined by different grades represented by letters and numbers: >F (Flawless) Total absence of inclusions and total absence of minor surface blemishes (with 10X magnification). >IF (Internally Flawless) Total absence of inclusions and presence of very minor surface blemishes (with 10X magnification). >VVS1 (Very Very Small inclusions) Presence of minute inclusions difficult to see even for a skilled grader and/or minor surface blemishes (with 10X magnification).
>VVS2 (Very Very Small inclusions) Presence of minute inclusions difficult to see even for a skilled grader and/or minor surface blemishes slightly more present than in VVS1 (with 10X magnification). >VS1 (Very Small inclusions) Presence of small inclusions clearly visible and/or minor surface blemishes (with 10X magnification). >VS2 (Very Small inclusions) Presence of small inclusions clearly visible and/or minor surface blemishes slightly more present than in VS1 (with 10X magnification). >SI1 (Slightly Included) Important presence of small inclusions and/or surface imperfections (with 10X magnification). >SI2 (Slightly Included) Important presence of small inclusions and/or surface slightly more present than in SI1 (may be seen with the unaided eye by a skilled grader). >I1 (Imperfect) Obvious presence of inclusions, generally white, and/or important surface imperfections (seen with the unaided eye). >I2 (Imperfect) Same as I1 with amore obvious presence of inclusions, generally black and/or very important surface imperfections. >I3 (Imperfect) Very included stone. Tip: To check the clarity grade in the SI2 and lower grade and to avoid being bothered by reflection, which tends to mask imperfections. Look at the stone with the magnifying lens through the pavilion, table down on a sheet of white paper. Color Another factor affecting price. The total absence of color in a diamond is very rare. A totally colorless stone is considered having the highest value. As a general rule, diamonds tend to have a yellow tint, due to the presence of atoms of nitrogen in the structure. One Exception: pronounced red, blue, pink, green or yellow colors, called fancy, are also very rare and claim high prices. Letters in a scale, ranging from colorless to yellow, represents diamond color. Letters in a scale, ranging from colorless to yellow, represents diamond color. This scale with its different grades is given for your information only. Today, the international diamond trade tends to consider only the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) scale. Its gradation starts with D (colorless) and ends with Z (fancy yellow). View the GIA scale
Beware when looking for a diamonds color use daylight from the North or tube light corrected daylight. When checking a diamonds color, avoid being bothered by unwanted reflections. These tend to mask the color. The best way is to look at the stone through the girdle, table down on a
Cut (or proportions) In order to preserve the maximum of weight from the rough, the cutter has to make choices that will have a direct effect on the stones proportions and their qualities. If the cut diamond has a deep pavilion, the stone will appear less lively or even dark. With a shallow pavilion, it will display a light hole or a fisheye effect at the center due to the absence of internal reflection. A perfectly cut stone should send back the full amount of light through the table without leaks through the back facets.
Many different cutting factors can also affect the beauty and therefore the value of a diamond. A more or less wide table will show respectively more or less fire (or dispersion), the ability of a ray of light to split in rainbow colors. A girdle too thin can easily break during setting. Etc. The cut is defined by 5 different grades: Excellent - Very good - Good - Medium - Poor. Other minor factors affecting the value of a diamond >Finish The presence of polishing lines, of a bearded or misaligned girdle, or a table or culet slightly off center, or an imperfect octagonal table, or a bad junction between table and pavilion facets, or missing or extra facets, are factors that belong to the finish grade if they dont have an effect upon the clarity grade. Different appreciations used in the finish grade are: Excellent - Very good - Good - Medium Poor >Fluorescence The property of a diamond, and of other stones, to change or to emit a form/color of luminescence when excited by invisible rays like X rays or ultraviolet rays (UV). While excited by UV light, the emitted color is generally blue. A small amount of stones can show a pink, green, orange or yellow color. Approximately 35 % of diamonds on the market have UV fluorescence. Some diamonds emit a very strong fluorescence when excited by sunrays. This can give them a cloudy or milky appearance. Moreover, this fluorescence, generally blue, tends to mask under sunlight the real color of the diamond (generally yellow or brown) and therefore falsify the color grade. The appellation blue-white, now forbidden for diamond, indicate a stone with a very strong fluorescence masking its true color. In fact blue white diamonds can be in reality slightly, and sometimes even strongly, yellow or brown. Different appreciations of the fluorescence grade are: Nil (or none) - Slight (or faint) - Medium - Strong - Very strong
Examples >George, VS1, excellent, good, medium It means a stone of G color, clarity grade VS1, excellent proportions with a good finish and a medium fluorescence. > Henry, VVS1, very good, medium, nil (or none) It means a stone of H color, a clarity grade VVS1, very good proportions with a medium finish and no fluorescence.
Ruby
(roo-bee) 12th c.; lat. rubeus A deep red, transparent to translucent variety of the mineral corundum, highly valued as a precious stone Color Bright red, brownish and all kind of red to light pink Family Corundum Chemical composition Al2O3 Crystal system Hexagonal Hardness (Mohs scale) 9 Specific gravity 4 0,05 Refractive index 1,762 - 1,770 +0,008 -0,004 Birefringence 0,008
Ruby has been the world's most valued gemstone for thousands of years. Ruby was said to be the most precious of the twelve stones God created when he created all things, and this "lord of gems" was placed on Aaron's neck by God's command. In the Bible, Job says that wisdom is more precious than rubies In the ancient language of Sanskrit, ruby is called ratnaraj , or king of precious stones and also ratnanayaka, leader of precious stones. Among the multitude of legends and strange beliefs of ancient times, it was thought that the wearer of a ruby was blessed with health, wealth, wisdom and outstanding success in heart affairs . Furthermore, the wearer acquired the ability to live in peace with his enemies. In some places ruby was even thought to confer invulnerability. Rubies are today even more valuable and rare than the top quality colorless diamonds. A 16 carat ruby was sold at auction for USD 227,300 per carat at Sotheby's in 1988. A 27.37 carat Burmese ruby ring was sold at Sotheby's in Geneva in May 1995 for USD 146,145 per carat. A 32 carat ruby was sold for USD 144,000 per carat at Sotheby's in 1989.
In contrast, the eight D-color internally flawless diamonds of over 50 carats sold in the past 10 years only fetched a mere USD 125,000 per carat. Even for the largest of them, a pearshape of 102 carats. All colors of corundum except red are known as sapphires, which has created controversy about where ruby ends and sapphire begins, particularly in pink shades of corundum. In 1991, the International Colored Gemstone Association has passed a resolution that the light shades of the red hue should be included in the category ruby since it was too difficult to legislate where red ended and pink began. In practice, pink shades are now known either as pink ruby or pink sapphire. Ruby is the birthstone for July but on some ancient lists it can be the birthstone for December. Ruby is also the gemstone for the astrological sign Capricorn.
The most famous source of fine rubies is Burma, now called Myanmar. The ruby mines of Myanmar are older than history: stone age and bronze age mining tools have been found in the mining area of Mogok. Rubies from the legendary mines in Mogok often have a pure red color, which is often described as "pigeon's-blood" although that term is more fanciful than an actual practical standard in the trade today. Burma also produces intense pinkish-red rubies, which are also vivid and extremely beautiful. Many of the rubies from Burma have a strong red fluorescence when exposed to ultraviolet rays like those of sunlight, which adds on extra color. A relatively new and important mining area in Burma is Mong Hsu area. This rich ruby deposit produces commercial quantities of commercial quality ruby, but also significant quantities of fine quality, particularly in sizes up to a carat. Burma ruby is now more readily available than Thai (or Siam) ruby. Most Mong Hsu ruby is cut and marketed in Thailand. Fine rubies are also found in Thailand. They tend to have a darker red tone: a real red, tending toward burgundy and brown rather than toward pink, as Burma rubies do. But Thai rubies can also have a rich vivid red that rivals the Burmese in intensity. Thailand is the world's most important ruby trading center. Perhaps 90 percent of the world's ruby goes through Thailand at some point in the trading cycle. The largest ruby cutting factories are in the Chanthaburi area of Thailand.
In 1992, a new ruby mine was discovered in Vietnam and produces rubies which are very similar to rubies from Burma. Some of these Vietnamese rubies have been praised by experts as being virtually indistinguishable from top quality Burmese stones. In fact, the geology of the new mine may be a continuation of the same formation that produced the Burma deposits. Recently, a new and large deposit has been found in south Madagascar in the Tulear district. This mine produces in significant quantities a light to medium-dark pink material. Red material has been found in the Fionarangsoa area. Another source in Andilamena, North East of Antananarivo is producing orange to brown-red
material, some very similar to Thai rubies. Many stones from this mine are found on Chanthaburi market Sri Lanka stones are often pinkish or violetish in hue and many are pastel in tone. Some, however, resemble the vivid pinkish red hues from Burma. Rubies from Kenya and Tanzania surprised the world when they were discovered in the sixties because their color rivals the world's best. Unfortunately, most of the ruby production from these countries has many inclusions, tiny flaws which diminish transparency. Rubies from the African mines are rarely transparent enough to facet. However, color is displayed to full advantage when cut in cabochon style or in beads. Only a few clean stones of top quality have been seen. Occasionally a few fine top-quality rubies appear on the market from Afghanistan, Pakistan and the Pamir Mountains.
The most important factor in the value of a ruby is color. The best qualities of ruby can be as red as you can imagine: a saturated pure spectral hue without any overtones of brown or blue. The intensity of color of a fine ruby is like that of glowing coal. After color, the other factors which influence the value of a ruby are size, clarity and cut. Larger rubies, because they are rare, will cost more per carat than smaller stones of the same quality. Sizes above five carats are particularly rare. Rubies that are perfectly transparent, with no flaws, are more valuable than those with inclusions which are visible to the eye. The cut can make a big difference in how attractive and lively a ruby appears to the eye. The shape should also be symmetrical and there should not be any nicks or any scratches in the polish.
Ruby sometimes displays a three-ray, six-point star. These star rubies are cut in a smooth domed cabochon cut to display the effect. The star is best visible when illuminated with a single light source: it moves across the stone as the light
moves. This effect, called asterism, is caused by light reflecting off tiny rutile needles, called "silk," which are oriented along the crystal faces. The value of star rubies and sapphires are influenced by two things: the intensity and attractiveness of the body color and the strength and sharpness of the star.
Topaz
(t-paz') 13th c.; lat. topazus; gr. topazos Colorless, blue, yellow, brown, or pink aluminum silicate mineral, often found in association with granitic rocks and valued as a gemstone, especially in the brown and pink varieties Color All colors Family Aluminum fluosilicate Chemical composition Al2(F,OH)2SiO4 Crystal system Orthorhombic Hardness (Mohs scale) 8 Specific gravity 3,53 0,04 Refractive index 1,619 - 1,627 0,01 Birefringence 0,008 Optical character Biaxial +
Topaz is found in many colors such as blue, pink, brown, green, and colorless, but yellow is the color most often associated with this gem. All yellow stones were once called topaz but today the real orange-red imperial variety is a rare find. According to Pliny, the name topaz was derived from the Island of Topazos in the Red Sea, which probably refers to Zeberged, ancient source for peridot. But it is more likely that the name derives from the Sanskrit word tapas meaning fire. The Egyptians believed that topaz was colored with the golden glow of the sun god Ra. The ancient Greeks believed that it had the power to increase ones strength and make its wearer invisible in cases of emergency. The Romans associated topaz with Jupiter, who is also the god of the sun. In the 19th century, pink topaz was discovered in Russia. The gemstone was so coveted that only the Czar, his family, and those he gave it to were allowed ownership. When worn as amulet, topaz was said to drive away sadness and strengthen the intellect. Mounted in gold and hung around the neck, it was believed to dispel bad charms. Reduced to powder and put in wine, topaz was a cure for insomnia, asthma, burns and hemorrhage. Topaz was also said to change its color in the presence of poisoned food or drink. All these mystical powers were believed to increase and decrease with the phases of the moon.
One of the most famous topaz gems is a giant specimen set in the Portuguese Crown. Another beautiful topaz is kept in the Green Vault in Dresden. The Smithsonian Institution, American Museum of Natural History in New York, and the British Museum display also numerous outstanding rough or cut stones. The natural blue crystals found in Texas and in the Ural Mountains of Russia are not mined in enough quantities to meet the demand for inexpensive transparent blue gems. White or light blue topaz is commonly irradiated and heat treated to become blue. These stones are
stable in natural light but not under the jewelers torch, where its color reverses to white. Natural brownish-yellow stones are heated to become pink. Brown or champagne topaz, even though it is a natural stone, looses its color when exposed to sunlight or strong electrical lighting. Brazilian sapphire and the slaves diamond are ancient names used for topaz and are no longer in use, but Bohemian topaz, Madeira topaz, Golden topaz, Occidental topaz, Spanish topaz, Indian topaz are names forbidden today, but still in use. These latter names describe citrine, the much less expensive alternative to topaz. Topaz is the birthstone for the month of November.
Topaz crystals occur in highly acidic igneous rocks, such as rhyolite, and in metamorphic rocks. It is also found as a constituent of pegmatite dykes and is often a by-product of mining for other gems such as beryl or metals like tungsten, columbium or lithium. Topaz sources are distributed around the world. It is found in the gravel deposits along with other gemstones in Sri Lanka, Madagascar and Myanmar (formerly Burma), because of its hardness and specific gravity. The most important source for topaz is the state of Minas Gerais in Brazil. Some topaz is also mined in the United States, in the Pala region of California, and in the Rocky Mountains. Natural pink topaz is found in North Pakistan and Russia. The world's entire supply of imperial topaz is mined from two mines, the Vermelhao mine and the Capao mine, at Ouro Preto in Brazil, where some experts say the deposit will be exhausted very soon. Pale topaz that can be enhanced to blue is found in Brazil, Sri Lanka, Nigeria, and China. Other deposits are located in Australia, Japan, Mexico, South Africa, Scotland, Tasmania and Ireland.
Topaz comes in many colors such as blue, yellow, pink, brown, green and colorless. Most of these varieties are not very expensive, even in good quality.
Dark yellow with reddish tint "Imperial" topaz is rare, and demands much higher prices. Pink stones, naturally rare, were in fashion during the 19th century even if their color was the product of heat treatment of brownish yellow crystals. When selecting topaz, as with all transparent gemstones and in order to get full brilliancy, attention should be given to the overall proportions. Topaz is one of the hardest gemstones, 8 on the Mohs scale, but has very easy cleavage and can