Introduction

A study on organic dyes 2011
INTRODUCTION:
Natural dyes have been used throughout history and the first written record of natural dyeing is thought to date back to around 4,500 years ago in ancient China. Natural dyes were used exclusively right up until 1856, when William Henry Perkin, whilst trying to find an artificial malaria cure, accidentally created a new color and clothes dye when he found mauve. More recently natural dyes were used during World War II when German trade routes were broken and the country's army was forced to not only make their uniforms from nettles instead of cotton, but to dye them using nettles too. Nature is not uniform and neither are her dyes; it is just this quality that attracts many people to natural dying. If you dye your own clothes you will not have to worry that someone else at a party will be wearing the same colored garment as you! With all the talk that is going around about going green and avoiding the toxins that can be found in clothing it has made many people curious about organic clothing. why this switch to organic clothing?
OBJECTIVES:
To study about the future growth of organic dyes. To study the manufacturers perception towards usage of organic dyes. To review about the organic dyes its importance and its advantages over synthetic dyes.
SCOPE:
It is limited to Hyderabad. It is restricted only to the usage of the organic dyes in Hyderabad. It is analyzed through statistical data of the usage of organic dyes.
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LITERATURE REVIEW:
DYES:
A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and may require a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.
Dyes are applied to the numerous substrates to textiles, leather, plastic and paper etc., in liquid form. One characteristic of dye is that the dyes must get completely or at least partially soluble in which it is being put to.
The rule that we apply to other chemicals is similarly applicable to dyes also. Certain kind of dyes can be toxic, carcinogenic or mutagenic and can pose as a hazard to health.
EVOLUTION OF DYES:
The preparation and application of dyestuffs is one of the oldest forms of human activities. Evidences of which were found by Excavation at archeological sites where ancient fabrics were unearthed. There is also mention of it in the bible and the other works of classical antiquity. It was in 2600 BC when earliest written records of the use of dyestuffs were found in China. Perhaps one of the real breakthroughs in the history of dyes came in 1856 when a teenager who was experimenting at this makeshift laboratory in home made a certain discovery that acted as a sort of launching pad for the modern chemicals industry. William Perkin an eighteen year old student was working on chemical synthesis of natural products. In a classic case of serendipity, the young William Perkin chanced upon his now famous aniline mauve dye while he was attempting to synthesis quinine, the only cure for malaria. Perkin named his color mauveine, after the French name of non fast color which was made of natural dyes. So mauve (a basic dye) was the first synthetic dyestuff. Mauve was a derivative of coal tar. It was first mass produced dye, that was commercially available and the idea was born that a color could be made in the factory. It was indeed a revolution.
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FACTOR THAT MAKES DYE COLORED:

A chromophore is the part of a molecule responsible for its color. The color arises when a molecule absorbs certain wavelengths of visible light and transmits or reflects others. The chromophore is a region in the molecule where the energy difference between two different molecular orbitals falls within the range of the visible spectrum. Visible light that hits the chromophore can thus be absorbed by exciting an electron from its ground state into an excited state. An auxochrome is a functional group of atoms attached to a chromophore which modifies the ability of the chromophore to absorb light, altering the wavelength or intensity of the absorption.
DYEING:
Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut Chemical bond with fiber molecules. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing.
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HISTORY:
Dyeing was practiced in Egypt, Persia, China, and India thousands of years ago. Before 1856, natural materials derived from insects, plants, shellfish, and minerals were the only known sources of dyestuffs. These sources included the root of the herb madder for the red dye and the indigo plant for blue dye. In the early days of Roman Empire, garments colored with Tyrian purple, a dye derived from a shellfish of the Mediterranean Sea, were worn by the imperial family and the nobility. As late as the 4th century AD, cloth colored with Tyrian purple was the symbol of royalty.
The art of dyeing was stimulated in the 13th century by the discovery of achil, a purple dye made from a species of lichen. Northern Italy, where the discovery was made, became the centre of dyeing in Europe. In the 16th century, explorers brought back from the Americas such dyestuffs as cochineal and logwood. Other Important sources of natural dyes included quercitron, weld, fustic, brazilwood, safflower, and indigo plants. In 1856 the first synthetic dye, mauve, was derived from coal tar. Mauve was developed by British chemist William Henry Perkin so that it could be produced easily on a large scale. Since then a great number of synthetic dyes have been developed, and the use of natural dyes has almost ceased.
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DYE CLASSIFICATION:
Dyes can be classified as either natural or synthetic. The only natural dye still used on a large scale is logwood, which imbues silk, wool, cellulose acetate, and nylon with a deep black color. With the exception of a few in organic materials used in special processes, all dyestuffs used in textile applications are synthetic organic chemicals.
Synthetic dyes can be classified according to either their characteristics or their application to textiles. Manufacturers of dyes usually classify dyes according to their chemical structure, whereas dyers generally classify dyes based on the method of application. According to the dyers method of classification, there are direct dyes, which produce fast colors in fibers placed directly in the dye solutions, and indirect dyes, which produce fast colors only if the fibers are treated before or after dyeing. Direct cotton dyes are used to color cellulose fibers- mainly cotton, rayon, flax, and ramie. They will also color protein fibers and some synthetic fibers. Most of these dyes have good fastness to light and to washing in cold and warm water but not to washing in hot water with detergents. Other types of direct dyes are acid dyes and basic dyes. Acid dyes contain acidic groups, such as sulfonic in their molecular structures.
They are used for protein fibers such as silk and wool and for synthetic fibers such as nylon. Basic dyes Contain amino groups in their molecular structures. They are used to color silk, wool, jute, nylon, acetate, and acrylic fibers. Neither acid nor basic dyes are of value in dyeing cellulose fibers. Developed direct dyes such as azoic, or naphthol, dyes are similar to direct dyes, but they need to be developed, or formed, on the fibers. Azoic dyes can be used on cotton, rayon, acetate, silk, and some synthetic fibers. The simplest method of indirect dyeing involves pretreating the fiber with mordants, or fixing solutions, before applying the dye solution. Tannin was once an important mordant because it allowed basic dyes to be applied to cotton and other cellulose fabrics.
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Mordants more commonly used today are chrome, which enhances a dyes fastness on wool, silk, and nylon: and copper, which is used in the dyeing of acrylic fibers. Dyeing a fabric with a mordant dye typically involves three steps: (I) treating the fabric with a solution of metallic salt, (2) dipping the fabric in a bath containing ammonia, and (3) applying the dye using a dye bath. The ammonia reacts with the metallic salt, forming an insoluble metal hydroxide on the fabric. The metal hydroxide then reacts with the dye solution to produce stable, insoluble colored compounds, also known as lakes.
Other indirect dyes, including vat dyes and sulfur dyes, are insoluble in water. They must be chemically reduced to their leuco compounds altered versions of the original dyes that are soluble in water. To color with a vat dye or sulfur dyes the fabric is first immersed in a solution of leuco compound. Stable, insoluble dye is then formed in a chemical reaction by exposing the fabric to air or to an oxidizing agent. Vat and sulfur dyes are not used on protein fibers because of the strong alkaline nature of their leuco-compound solutions. These dyes are best used on cellulose fibers, especially where fastness to frequent and hard washing is required.
Other methods of dyeing include dispersed dyes, reactive dyes, and pigments. Dispersed dyes are colloidal suspensions (mixtures 0nta1fl1flg very small particles) of azoic dyes in alkaline solutions. Acetate, nylon, and polyester fibers colored with dispersed dyes retain their color even after repeated exposure to sunlight and washing.
In 1956 the introduction of reactive dyes for cotton, rayon, silk, and wool revolutionized dyeing methods. While other dyestuffs form only loose bonds with fibers, reactive dyes form stable chemical links with textile materials to produce colored fabrics with excellent overall fastness. They are particularly useful for coating glass fiber, which, because of its inert nature, can be difficult to dye. Molten glass can also be colored with metallic salts before it is spun into fibers.
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DYEING PROCESSES:
Textile materials can be dyed at any stage in their manufacturing process. Fibers can be dyed and then woven into patterned fabrics or solid-colored clothes. Colored designs can also be formed on woven cloth by several processes.
Dyeing machinery is simple in operation. Monel metal (an alloy of nickel and copper) and other acid-resistant alloys are used to make containers for acid dyes. Stainless-steel containers are used for basic or neutral dye solutions. When yarn is dyed, it is wound on perforated spindles through which the dye solution is forced under pressure to ensure uniform distribution to all parts of the spools. Yarns can also be dyed in windings called skeins. Cloth is dyed in machines designed according to the specific characteristics of the fabric.
There are three methods of pattern dyeing and printing: direct, resist, and discharge printing. In direct printing a design is etched into a copper roller. A dye that has been thickened into a paste with starch, gelatin, or synthetic polymers is applied to the etched area while the unetched surface is kept clean.
The color design is transferred to the cloth under pressure. Direct Printing may also involve forcing the paste onto the fabric through a screen, a technique similar to stencil printing except that the screen controls how much paste is applied to the cloth.
In resist printing, a reverse-printing method, a dye- repelling substance is selectively applied to the cloth, which is then placed in a dye bath.
This method is used, for example, to produce white polka dots on a color background. In discharge printing, the whole fabric is dyed. A pattern is then printed on the fabric with a chemical that oxidises or reduces the dye, creating a white pattern on a colored background.
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ORGANIC DYES:
Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood and other organic sources such as fungi and lichens. There are three types of Natural Dyes. 1. Plant-based dyes: Examples of these are Madder and Indigo. Analyses of red fabrics found in King Tutankhamens tomb show that they were dyed with madder, a plant-based dye. Till the early 1900s, indigo was commonly made from a family of flowering plants called indigofera. It was cheap and plentiful, and so favoured by the working class (hence the term blue collar worker). 2. Animal-based dyes: The purple robes of royalty, in Ancient Rome were dyed using using a substance extracted from a rare crustacean called a Trumpet Shell (Purple Fish) which was found near Tyre on the Mediterranean coast. An estimated 8,500 shellfish were crushed to produce one gram of the dye, which made it so expensive that only kings could afford to use it.Deep red or crimson was produced from a species of scaled insects, Cochineal, and was probably first used by the Aztec and the Maya. 3. Dyes made with minerals, colored clays and earth oxides. For example, Ochre, made from iron ore, is one of the oldest pigments and has been in use since pre-historic times.
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Natural Dyed Textiles in India
Wisdom is as enduring as the dyes of India...

(St Jerome, Fourth century) Over the centuries, Indian craftsmen have used natural dyes on mulmul (muslin), cotton, wool and silk textiles which are known all over the world today. Indian natural dyed fabrics fall into three categories - yarn dyed in natural colours and woven; materials block printed with natural dyes and Kalamkari where the "Kalam" or pen is used to draw beautiful designs on the cloth. Today the most popular vegetable dyed fabrics are from Andhra Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat and Orissa. Srikalahasti in Andhra Pradesh is famous for Kalamkari textiles. Machilipatnam is known for its fine vegetable dye block printed textiles. Bagh in Madhra Pradesh, Bagru and Sanganer in Rajasthan make beautiful, block printed fabrics. Craftsmen in Kutch and Sindh practice Ajrakh printing on cotton fabric using indigo blue, madder red, and a yellow derived from pomegranate rinds. The Crafts Council of India, Dastakar and the Madras Craft Foundation (MCF) are among the organisations that help artisans keep the tradition of Natural Dyes alive in the country.
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MERITS AND DEMERITS OF NATURAL DYES:

ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES: 1) Health and safety aspects of natural dyes: Though all natural dyes are not 100% safe they are less toxic than their synthetic counterparts. Many of the natural dyes like turmeric, annatto and saffron are permitted as food additives. Many natural dyes have pharmacological effects and possible health benefits. 2) They are obtained from renewable sources. 3) Natural dyes cause no disposal problems, as they are biodegradable. 4) Practically no or mild reactions are involved in their preparation. 5) They are unsophisticated and harmonized with nature. 6) Many natural dyes have the advantage that even though they have poor wash fastness ratings, they do not stain the adjacent fabrics in the washing process because of the non-substantive nature of the dye towards the fabric. An exception to this is turmeric, which shows substantivity for cotton. 7) Natural dyes are cost effective. 8) It is possible to obtain a full range of colours using various mordants.
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LIMITATIONS OF NATURAL DYES The limitations of natural dyes that are responsible for their decline are: Availability Colour yield Complexity of textile dyeing process Reproducibility of shade
Besides these there are other technical drawbacks of natural dyes: These are: -
Limited number of suitable dyes Great difficulty in blending dyes Non-standardized Inadequate degree of fixation Inadequate fastness properties except few exceptions Water pollution by heavy metals and large amounts of organic substances.
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SYNTHETIC DYES: Any of the organic dyes originally derived from coal-tar derivatives, but currently synthesized from benzene and its derivatives. Types of Synthetic Dyes:
Acid Dyes comes in a wide variety of colors, it is fairly fast to light and to washing. It is named acid dyes because they work best when applied in an acid bath. It is mainly used on nylon, silk and wool.
Azoic (or Naphthol) Dyes this type of dyes are extremely fast to light, it is commonly used to dye a material red, orange or maroon. It is mainly used in cotton.
Basic Dyes this type of dye is just fair when it comes to fastness to light and to washing, however this type can create a brilliant color. It is mainly used on natural and acrylic fibers, it is also sometimes used for wool and silk. This dye is also used to color paper. Acetic acid is usually added to the dyebath to help in the quick penetration of the dye onto the fiber.
Chrome (or Mordant) Dyes this type of dye is fairly fast to light and to washing, it is especially useful for black and navy shades. The choice of mordant is very important as different mordants can alter the final color significantly, it is important to know also that many mordants, particularly those in the hard metal category can be hazardous to health, that is why caution should be followed when using it. It is mainly used for wool and silk.
Mordant is a chemical that is mixed with the dye and the fiber, the modern mordants are dichromates and chromium complexes, that is why it is also called chrome dye.
Developed (or Diazo) Dyes are used to treat certain dyed fabrics to improve their fastness to light and to washing and also to change fabric's color. The treatment are used primarily on cotton. Diazotizing is the treatment which involves the use of chemical called a developer. It is mainly used on cotton.
Direct Dyes this type is one of the easiest to use and has a wide range of colors, it is not fast to washing, but its fastness is often improved by more treatment. It is mainly used on cotton, rayon leather, wool, silk and nylon. It is also used as pH indicators and as biological stains.
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Disperse (or Acetate) Dyes this dyes is finely ground in the presence of dispersing agent, its dyeing rate is greatly influenced by the dispersing agent used during the grinding. Disperse dyes were developed because other dyes would not work with acetate it is also used on different manmade fibers, including acrylic, acetate, and polyester fibers.
Reactive (or Fiber-reactive) Dyes this type of dye have a good fastness to light and to washing. Reactive dyes create a strong chemical bonds with the material being dyed which makes it the most permanent of dyes, this dye is by far the best choice for dyeing cotton, nylon, wool and other cellulose fibers at home or in the art studio.
Sulphur Dyes this dye are especially fast to washing and if the best for material that is washed frequently. Sulphur dyes are colorless(upon application), but upon exposure to air they are oxidized a d turn into their respective colors. They come mainly in dark, dull colors and used on cotton, linen and rayon.
Vat Dyes this type is superior compared to the other dye when it comes to its fastness to light and to washing. Vat dyes like sulphur dyes must be oxidized before their real color comes out. This dye is mainly used for cotton, linen, wool and silk. The indigo color of blue jeans is vat dye.
APPLICATIONS OF ORGANIC DYES:

It is used in cement industry to ensure a long lasting cement color shade. In ceramic industry, organic dyes are used for coating ceramic materials and glase development.
Color is an integral part of plastic material. Construction of buildings also requires organic dyes. Dyes have found a wide variety of uses in the cosmetic industry.
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ARTICLES, BLOGS AND TED TALKS:

In the article, Fibershed Project - artist urges local clothing, published on September 10th, 2011. Burgess began with a team of about 40 people, including farmers, designers, seamstresses and volunteers for building an online Fibershed Marketplace, set to go live where shoppers will be able to purchase fibers, cotton and dyes from within that 150-mile radius.
Prior to Fibershed, Burgess spent more than two years researching bioregional dyes throughout the country. Her work appeared in an internationally circulated book, "Print and Production Finishes for Sustainable Design," and most recently in her own book, "Harvesting Color." She also works with Santa Rosa's Post Carbon Institute, developing curriculum. She has coupled her artistry with an environmental philosophy that calls for not only a resurgence of local craftsmanship but also a reduction of the carbon footprint in the textile industry. In the article, Sensual & sustainable by Connie Tamoto / Fashion on September 17th, 2011. Bridger, who is eco-conscious Canadian, has used fair trade and sustainable fabric, such as silk woven by fair-trade artisans in India, azo-free dyes and 100 per cent certified organic wool. Bridgers Fall/Winter 2011 collection is a perfect marriage between sensuality, sustainability and style. Designing is a true passion for Bridger, whose philosophy in fashion and life is "do what is right for the Earth, its people and spirit." The designers commitment to sustainable fashion was also recognized with the inaugural Design Forward Award by Fashion Takes Action an award that recognizes designers in Canada who have gone above and beyond in "eco-initiatives" to become more sustainable. Fairfax, Va.-based IMAGINE Green Wear is introducing its fall line of apparel made of organic cotton for baby, children, women and men that is printed with seaweed-based dyes at the Natural Products Expo East in Baltimore from Sept. 22-24, 2011 (booth 3500). The collection offers a wide variety of graphics and illustrations, all dyed directly into the apparel and locally.
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IMAGINE Green Wears goal is to set a new standard for attractive printed and dyed apparel made of organic cotton, blending cutting-edge design with a process that is likely the most environmentally friendly on the market, said Mark Fishbein, president of IMAGINE Green Wear. We are changing forever the process of screen printing rather than using plastic or water-based inks, IMAGINE Green Wear uses seaweed-based dyes that are safe, soft, allow the garment to breath, and last. At a time when the U.S. textile industry is going overseas, one-year-old IMAGINE Green Wear has already outgrown its space and is moving into a new facility in Fairfax, Va. It also is in the process of getting both its headquarters and its inputs certified to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) which prohibits the use of harmful substances.
Jagmeeta Thind Joy Tags : BioFach, designer Wendell Rodricks, Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Posted: Sat Sep 17 2011. It is one of the worlds most acknowledged platforms for players in the international organic movement. And each year, BioFach, held in Nuremberg, Germany, attracts around 2,500 exhibitors and thousands of visitors from 130 countries. While Indian exhibitors have been an intrinsic part of the four-day extravaganza in the past, the 2012 edition is going to be special as India has been chosen as the partner country. The star attraction of the Indian pavilion, Goabased designer Wendell Rodricks, whose work with natural fabrics and dyes has landed him an invitation to open the fair with a fashion show. BioFach is a prestigious event and its an honour for me to be a part of it, especially in the India-special edition, remarked Rodricks, who is currently putting together an all-organic collection for the show. The organic fabric he uses has unique properties its anti-perspirant and provides protection against UV rays. Though organic food and agriculture are the other important aspects of the fair, eco-friendly fashion, points out Wendell, is much looked forward to.
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In one of the blogs of Suzanne lee and also TED TALK she said she grows her own cloths that
means the latest in eco-fashion trends and sustainable design ideas. She also said Im essentially using a kombucha recipe, which is a symbiotic mix of bacteria, yeasts and other micro-organisms, which spin cellulose in a fermentation process. Over time, these tiny threads form in the liquid into layers and produce a mat on the surface. it was posted on September 6th 2011 by Robin Bertelsen.
In this blog, Organic T-shirts and Products await you? by Jake Bison explains about the T-shirts that are made completely organic organic cotton, organic fertilizers and organic dyes. He also adds other organic products are made from materials grown in a process that does not harm the
environment in any way.
India only accounts for approximately three per cent of the global pigment market. There was a clear opportunity to use our domination of the domestic market as a springboard to replicate the business globally. Global Pigments and Dyes Market to Reach 9.0 Million Tons in Volume and US$24.2 Billion in Value by 2015, According to a New Report by Global Industry Analysts, Inc. GIA announces the release of a comprehensive global report on Pigments and Dyes markets. The global market for pigments and dyes is forecast to reach 9.0 million tons and US$24.2 billion by the year 2015. Stringent and increasingly rigorous quality, performance, and environmental standards globally are key factors driving growth in the market. Surge in market growth in the coming years would be fuelled by growth in the paints, coatings, inks, and construction industries. Rising consumer preference for environment friendly products, which in turn would drive consumption of higher performance dyes and organic pigments, is expected to drive future growth in the market. Pigments and Dyes: A Global Strategic Business Report San Jose, CA (Vocus/PRWEB) February 14, 2011 Through all these articles, blogs and talks which promote the use of organic materials and the growth and improvement in the use of organic dyes, I would like to assess the frequency of the usage of organic dyes in Hyderabad.
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RESEARCH METHODOLOGY:
The sources of the topic a study on organic dyes is accessed through: SECONDARY DATA: The secondary data is collected, from the books the art and craft of natural dyes by Shakuntala Ramani, textbook of organic dyes by A. Arora and other sources online.
The other information collected on synthetic dyes. Synthetic dyes are manufactured with petroleum by-products, therefore the reserve of the petroleum are drying. Azo group dyes are banned in Europe as they are carcinogenic in nature.
PETROLEUM AND DYES
Liquid solvent dyes used as color additives in various petroleum markets. These markets include: Gasoline, diesel fuel, aviation fuels, marine, lubricants, and oil greases. These dyes are also used in aerobatic smokes, candle wax, wood stains and industrial writing instruments. Dyes, such as red powders and blue powders, that are soluble in various petroleum-based solvent such as gasoline and diesel fuel.
Solvent red and solvent blue powder dyes are soluble in various petroleum solvents such as gasoline and diesel fuels.
Fuel theft has become a global issue. The high price and high rate of duty on fuel makes it an attractive target for theft, particularly within a company that has private fuel storage. Liquid dye allows clients to color all of their petroleum based products in most colors for easy traceability:
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Dyes are used to identify leaded, unleaded and leaded replacement fuels or different octane level gasoline in various countries. Brand marking of fuel is essential for oil companies looking to maintain the integrity of their high quality fuel brands.
Dyes and Pigments are used in various manufacturing processes, for coloring plastics, petroleum products, inks for printing and writing, coating (paints), Candle, Wax, wood stains, textiles, leather and paper products.
Since antiquity, fabrics have been dyed with extracts from minerals, plants, and animals. In fact, dyeing historically was a secretive art form; the most beautiful and exotic pigments reserved were for those who had the status to wear them. Things began to change around 1856 when scientists discovered how to make synthetic dyes. Cheaper to produce, brighter, more color-fast, and easy to apply to fabric, these new dyes changed the playing field. Scientists raced to formulate gorgeous new colors and before long, dyed fabric was available to all, and natural dyes had become obsolete for most applications.
This brightly colored, changed new world was not without a down side however. The chemicals used to produce dyes today are often highly toxic, carcinogenic, or even explosive. The chemical Anililine, the basis for a popular group of dyes known as Azo dyes (specifically group III A1 and A2) which are considered deadly poisons (giving off carcinogenic amines) and dangerous to work with, also being highly flammable. In addition , other harmful chemicals used in the dying process include
1) Dioxin a carcinogen and possible hormone disrupter;
2) Toxic heavy metals such as chrome, copper, and zinc known carcinogens; and 3) Formaldehyde, a suspected carcinogen. Dye chemicals have caused or fueled many dye factory fires through history, including a massive Rhode Island dye factory fire in 2003 in which vast quantities of dye chemicals spilled into the Blackstone River.
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Dangers for Dye Workers In the end of the nineteen century, little regard was paid to the safety and of dye worker labor conditions. However, it soon became apparent that there were deadly risks to workers who manufactured dye and who dyed garments. In the dye industry in 2008, much, but not all has changed, and not even where you might expect it to. In Japan, dye workers are at higher risk of tumors. And in the United States, deaths amongst factory workers from several cancers, cerebrovascular disease, lung disease are significantly higher 40 times higher, for some diseases than in the general population.
Environmental Pollution from Dye Factories Almost every industrial dye process involves a solution of a dye in water, in which the fabrics are dipped or washed. After dying a batch of fabric, its cheaper to dump the used water dye effluent than to clean and re-use the water in the factory. So dye factories across the world are dumping millions of tons of dye effluent into rivers. Most countries require factories to treat dye effluent before it is dumped. Separating the dye chemicals from the water results in a dye sludge, and cleaner water. The water, which still contains traces of dye, is dumped into the river, and leaves the problem of what to do with the sludge? China does have water pollution laws stipulating how dye waste water must be treated before it is discharged into rivers, but when the river downstream from a factory producing dyed textiles for Gap, Target and Wal-Mart ran dark red, investigators discovered that untreated dye effluent was being dumped directly into the river, close to 22,000 tons worth. Villagers say that fish died, and the lifeless river turned to sludge. The factory, a major supplier to several US stores, was attempting to save money in the face of companies like Wal-Marts pressure for ever-lower prices. In Mexico, fields and rivers near jeans factories are turning dark blue from untreated, unregulated dye effluent. Factories dying denims for Levi and Gap dump waste-water contaminated with synthetic indigo straight into the environment. Local residents and farmers report health problems and wonder if the food they are obliged to grow in nearby fields is safe to eat.
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Are Dyed Clothes Safe to Wear? The dye on a finished garment, by its nature, is chemically stable thats what makes a dye color fast. However, research is emerging that examines the short and long term effects of potential skin absorption of dye and finishing chemicals through clothing. The CNN report October 2007 which Shana wrote about on Green Cotton, revealed that new testing procedures (chemical burden testing) reveal that young babies and children actually do have increased levels of chemicals in their bloodstream and skin. Because clothing comes into prolonged contact with ones skin, toxic chemicals are often absorbed into the skin, especially when ones body is warm and skin pores have opened to allow perspiration. We also know that some individuals have what is known as chemical sensitivity, including when exposed to garments of many types. http://www.chemicalsensitivityfoundation.org/ Symptoms in adults for chemical sensitivity range from skin rashes, headaches, trouble concentrating, nausea, diarrhea, fatigue, muscle and joint pain, dizziness, difficulty breathing, irregular heart beat, and/or seizures. Symptoms in children include red cheeks and ears, dark circles under the eyes, hyperactivity, and behavior or learning problems. See Lotusorganics.com for more information. Dyes are complex chemicals, and as anyone whos washed a red shirt with a white shirt knows, they dont stay put forever.
Why Are Synthetic Dyes So Harmful? Dyes are so problematic because the families of chemical compounds that make good dyes are also toxic to humans. Each new synthetic dye developed is a brand new compound, and because its new, no-one knows its risks to humans and the environment. Many dyes like Amaranth have entered the market, and then have subsequently been discovered to be carcinogenic and withdrawn. The European Union in particular has been pro-active in banning dangerous dyes and dyes formulated from toxic chemicals. But its backwards to create a dye, see if its hazardous, then ban it if so. Especially since so many dyes are known to be dangerous and carcinogenic.
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Whats the Alternative to Synthetic Dyes?
So what is the dye industry doing, or rather innovators in the clothing industry who want to change the dye industry? Responsible dye manufactures are investigating ways to treat their dye effluent with organic materials and bacteria, rather than chemical treatments, and improve dye manufacture and processing to minimize hazardous chemicals used. In fact, Im excited to learn that natural, plant based dyes are steadily making a comeback into mainstream fashion.
While, natural dyes will never be able to completely replace synthetic dyes, due to the fact that there is only so much land to go around and food is already in great demand. However, there are innovative ways of using plants for multiple purposes and maximizing their dying potential. And of course, if there was a little more love for the natural colors of fabrics, dyes wouldnt be needed as much.
Health Problems Clothing dyes can cause the following health problems: skin rashes headaches trouble concentrating nausea diarrhea fatigue muscle and joint pain dizziness breathing difficulties irregular heart beat seizures Furthermore, children can experience the following: red cheeks and ears dark circles under the eyes hyperactivity behavioral problems learning problems
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Because clothing is in constant contact with your skin, the chemicals are absorbed into your skin through your pores. They can then enter your liver, kidney, bones, heart and brain. Most people have some sort of chemical sensitivity. Some are more sensitive to chemicals than others. Those who are more sensitive will notice the impact of clothing dyes more than others. Those of us who arent as sensitive, may still experience some symptoms but just not realize it.
Environmental Problems The biggest environmental problem with clothing dyes is its effect on our waterways - rivers, creeks, oceans, drinking water, etc.
Large amounts of water is needed to flush dyes from garments. Because conventional synthetic dyes contain chemicals, these chemicals are washed away with the water. In theory, the heavy metals and toxins should be removed from the water before its returned to the water systems. In practice, this is rarely the case - especially in developing countries where pollution laws/standards are often non-existent.
The result of this, is that the polluted water goes straight into the rivers, creeks, and oceans. Not good for the environment.
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PRIMARY DATA: It is collected from weavers centre, cheneta bhavan and the retailers who sell dyes. Research methodology through personal interview: I had been continuously visiting Mr. Himaja Kumar of Weavers Service Centre for the guidance and help to reach the natural dyeing units. With his help and guidance I could reach the natural dyeing unit. He also insighted me with many logics of organic dyes and its usages. For the interview I met Mantri Babu, president of Balaji mixed Fabrics Handloom Weavers, at Karwan, Hyderabad. He is a handloom weaver, he drifted his business to the coloring the yarns with natural dyes and vat dyes 2 years ago. He exports the natural dyed fabrics to US for slowcolor. And he uses VAT dyes for domestic purpose. This unit sizes about 900sq.ft. . He does yarn dyeing and the make fabric on frame and jacquard looms. He also manufactures towels. As it is small scale unit, he has limited co-workers. Therefore the limited export is done when compared to the high demand. The client to whom he export is very much delighted with his unit. He says this demand would definitely grow in the coming years. According to him catering to the domestic market doesnt benefit him and people also would be least interested because of the cost and lack of awareness. Interviews were also conducted with some dyeing units in Hyderabad like Janata Dyers and Printers, Ramkote, Pioneer Dyeing, Secunderabad, Creative Bee, Banjara Hills, in Hyderabad. Some of the small units in Badi Chowdi also, who used synthetic dyes. According to most the units interviewed, their customers prefer only the color and not the dyes used. Most of the customers are not aware of the class of dyes or chemicals used. Considering this, online consumer survey has been conducted to understand the consumers perception. Total no. of respondents: 122 Online survey was conducted. Convienent Sampling
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AGE
TABLE No. 1
RESPONDANTS 18-25 25-35 35-45 above 45
RESPONDENTS IN No 77 29 8 7
RESPONDANTS IN % 63% 24% 7% 6%
As the percentage of teenagers is high in India the survey is targeted to them.
Page | 24
GENDER
TABLE No. 2
RESPONDANTS Female Male
RESPONDENTS IN No 60 58
RESPONDANTS IN % 49% 48%
Equal number of males and females have been surveyed.
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OCCUPATION
TABLE No. 3
RESPONDANTS Student Business Working Home maker
Higher number of students were responded to the survey, followed by working , business and Homemaker.
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INCOME
TABLE No. 4
RESPONDANTS Not applicable Below 20,000 20,000 - 50,000 Above 50,000
As more than 49% of the respondents were students they and no source of income, remaining 51 % were working or into business earning 20,000 above and above.
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Are you aware of "Organic dyes"?
TABLE No. 5
RESPONDANTS Yes No
58% of respondents were aware of organic dyes and the rest had no idea of the existance of the organic dyes.
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Have you ever brought the cloths colored with "Organic dyes"?
TABLE No. 6
RESPONDANTS Yes No Did not respond
RESPONDENTS IN No 34 84 4
RESPONDANTS IN % 28% 69% 3%
Majority of the respondents never brought any cloths colored with Organic Dyes.
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Is the Organic clothing expensive?
TABLE No. 7
RESPONDANTS Yes No Did not respond
RESPONDENTS IN No 72 44 6
RESPONDANTS IN % 59% 36% 5%
Majority of the respondents said the organic clothing is expensive while 36% respondents said it is not expensive and the rest 5% did not respond as the are not aware of it.
Page | 30
Do you purchase cloths colored with "Organic dyes" even if it is expensive?
TABLE No. 8
RESPONDANTS Yes No
Almost equal percentage of respondents responded that they would buy the cloths colored with Organic Dyes.
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Did you come across any Brand or Store which sells "Organic cloths"?
TABLE No. 9
RESPONDANTS Yes No
Only 12% of the respondents are aware of the brands or stores that sell Organic Clothing. Most of the respondents are aware of the brands or store that sell Organic Clothing.
Page | 32
Do you give your cloths for dyeing?
TABLE No. 10
RESPONDANTS Yes No
48% of respondents get their cloths dyed.
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What do you prefer? and why?
TABLE No. 11
RESPONDANTS Organic dyes Synthetic dyes Both Did not respond
19% of the respondents prefer Organic Dyes, while 54% prefer both Organic Dyes and Synthetic Dyes. Some of them did not respond. Through this analysis we say that people prefer organic dyes because it is safe to use and they prefer synthetic dyes as they are economic and offer wide range of colors.
Page | 34
CONCLUSION:
This survey helped to understand the consumers perception on organic dyes. It can be said that consumers in hyderabad are less aware of the organic dyes, its uses, applications, or brands and stores which sell organic clothing. Therefore awareness must be created among consumers. Considering the manufacturers and consumers, point of view , the use of natural dyes can be marketed in the name of ayurvedic dyes which can regulate or heal dieases like diabeties.
AYURVEDIC CLOTHING
Ayurvastra or ayurvedic clothing is yet another gift of Ayurveda to humanity. Loosely translated Ayu means life and vastra means clothing. Ayurvastra is the garment that ensures better health and long life. Normal fabrics like organically grown cotton yarn, jute fiber etc. are used to make Ayurvastra and the fabrics are permeated with the desired herbs like neem, tulsi, sida, turmeric, and sandalwood. that enhance health in a controlled temperature and environment. These fabrics are permeated with therapeutic herbs, and aromatic oils. They posses medicinal properties, and are good for skin problems, headache, asthma, and many other ailments.
Ayurvastra cloth is completely free of synthetic chemicals and toxic irritants and is totally organic, sustainable and biodegradable. The color of the Ayurvastra is gained from the medicinal preparation only and no other colorants are used. Resultantly, its property will last as long as the color is there.
Many clinical experiments have been conducted to show the effectiveness of Ayurvastra. Conventional Western medicine and traditional Eastern medicine recognize the skin as being the bodys largest organ. The skin can act as a barrier but also as a medium for outside substances to enter the body. Many environmental toxins and chemicals in conventional clothing are assimilated into the body through the skin. Anything which can improve the skins natural ability to block and resist harmful chemicals and toxins from entering the body will be beneficial to health.
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Based on the 5,000 year-old medicinal science of Ayurveda, each yarn for Life garment is infused by hand with unique formulas to address various emotional and physical health challenges. Through the trans-dermal process of fiber to skin contact, the herbs and plants are diffused into the pores of skin to restore vitality and balance for healing and optimum health.
Each strand of yarn which is hand-dyed with all-natural ingredients, including pomegranate seeds, turmeric, sandalwood, and eucalyptus. Besides imbuing the fabric with their vibrant hues, the herbal dyes are said to boost immunity, reduce inflammation, and promote a general sense of well-being. Roots, seeds, flowers, leaves and barks of trees of many rare herbs and plants are used to make the dyes. Wild basil is used in BP clothes, while extracts of tea leaves or khus is used in sun-screen clothes. Mimosa pudica (touchme-not) is used for treating diabetes, and cumin seeds, champa flower, and hibiscus are combined in herbal dyes. Curry leaves, and apocynceae are used for arthritis and herbs such as neem, sandalwood, and turmeric are used for skin disorders. Only fire wood is used for the dyeing purposes. Different firewood is used for different herbs, with a combination of spring water, natural or ground water. Temperature of the dyes, blend of herbs, number of times the cloth is soaked in dyes, and the duration of dyeing differ according to the treatment purpose. The color of the fabrics is obtained only by the medicinal dyeing and no other artificial or chemical colorants are used. This limits the color choice of the buyer, but still its health benefits outshine the color preferences. Nature has gifted different varieties of herbs in many beautiful shades which can be seen in the dyed fabric. The time span the color remains on the fabric indicates the presence of medicinal properties on the fabric.
This way probably the awareness can be spread among the individuals. Thus the use of the natural dyes can be increased.
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FINDINGS:
The reserve of the petroleum are drying and synthetic dyes are the by-products of petroleum. Azo group dyes are banned in European countries as it carcinogenic in nature. Consumers in Hyderabad lack awareness about Organic Dyes. Consumers in Hyderabad are ready to spend on Organic Clothing. There is very Organic Business in Hyderabad.
SUGGESTIONS:
Awareness camps on hazardous azo based dyes and the other synthetic dyes have to be created. Concept of using ayurvedic fabrics for various ailments by giving examples of ancient literary texts should be introduced. Constant hammering of the idea to switch over to organic dyes is done. There should be publicity of the safe dyes. The Indian handicrafts and the weavers should be encouraged. Subsides should be provided by the government to this sector. Organic Business can create many job opportunities in the rural areas.
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LIMITATIONS
Time constraint
The timings of the college and the working hours of the weavers service centre are the same so it was difficult to manage both.
Availability of the data

Non-willingness of the respondents to answer the questionnaire was also a hurdle. Some of the respondents did not answer all the questions. Availability of the appointment with the desired people was also difficult.
Reliability of data
Reliability of data always is a prime concern in a survey. Noninterest, poor understanding, unclear questions, inability to think instantly and customer biases creeps in apprehensiveness in the minds of the researcher while tabulating and analyzing the data.
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BIBLOGRAPHY:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromophore http://www.copperwiki.org/index.php/Natural_Dyes http://www.hfht.org/what-are-organic-dyes-and-why-are-they-safer.htm http://www.theecologist.org/green_green_living/clothing/404783/how_to_dye_clothes_using_na tural_methods.html http://textileinformation.blogspot.com/2007/12/merits-and-demerits-of-natural-dyes.html http://len7288.hubpages.com/hub/Types-of-Synthetic-Dyes http://blog.airdye.com/ http://www.indianexpress.com/news/Blend-it-like-Wendell/847756/ http://apparel.edgl.com/news/Seaweed-s-the-Secret-Behind-Earth-Friendly-Apparel75614 http://www.winnipegfreepress.com/breakingnews/Sensual--sustainable-129957683.html http://articles.sfgate.com/2011-09-10/business/30137986_1_organic-clothing-cotton-indigo http://www.prweb.com/releases/pigments_dyes/inorganic_organic/prweb8131264.htm http://en.howtopedia.org/wiki/How_to_Dye_Fabric_/_Textile_with_Natural_Colors http://greencotton.wordpress.com/2008/06/18/synthetic-dyes-a-look-at-the-good-the-bad-andthe-ugly/ http://digitalcommons.liberty.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1025&context=honors&seiredir=1&referer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.co.in%2Furl%3Fsa%3Dt%26rct%3Dj%26q%3 Deffect%2520of%2520dyes%2520on%2520environment%26source%3Dweb%26cd%3D3%26s qi%3D2%26ved%3D0CDoQFjAC%26url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fdigitalcommons.liberty. edu%252Fcgi%252Fviewcontent.cgi%253Farticle%253D1025%2526context%253Dhonors%26 ei%3D2RuTsWcNYW3rAeEmtDyAQ%26usg%3DAFQjCNHQgauWmEF6njF2k81ZvKS_C54d9A#search =%22effect%20dyes%20environment%22 The art and craft of natural dyes -Shakuntala Ramani, Textbook of organic dyes - A. Arora.
Page | 39

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A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

FACTOR THAT MAKES DYE COLORED:

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

Natural Dyed Textiles in India

Wisdom is as enduring as the dyes of India...

A study on organic dyes 2011

MERITS AND DEMERITS OF NATURAL DYES:

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

APPLICATIONS OF ORGANIC DYES:

A study on organic dyes 2011

ARTICLES, BLOGS AND TED TALKS:

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

PETROLEUM AND DYES

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

A study on organic dyes 2011

RESPONDANTS 18-25 25-35 35-45 above 45

RESPONDANTS IN % 63% 24% 7% 6%

As the percentage of teenagers is high in India the survey is targeted to them.

A study on organic dyes 2011

RESPONDANTS Female Male

RESPONDANTS IN % 49% 48%

Equal number of males and females have been surveyed.

A study on organic dyes 2011

RESPONDANTS Student Business Working Home maker

RESPONDANTS IN % 49% 10% 34% 6%

A study on organic dyes 2011

RESPONDANTS Not applicable Below 20,000 20,000 - 50,000 Above 50,000

RESPONDANTS IN % 58% 16% 20% 6%

A study on organic dyes 2011

Are you aware of "Organic dyes"?

RESPONDANTS IN % 58% 42%

A study on organic dyes 2011

RESPONDANTS Yes No Did not respond

RESPONDANTS IN % 28% 69% 3%

A study on organic dyes 2011

Is the Organic clothing expensive?

RESPONDANTS Yes No Did not respond

RESPONDANTS IN % 59% 36% 5%

A study on organic dyes 2011

Do you purchase cloths colored with "Organic dyes" even if it is expensive?

RESPONDANTS IN % 51% 48%

A study on organic dyes 2011

RESPONDANTS IN % 12% 87%