BONSAI

MURODA, Kristel Marie F. BS Architecture III Planning I

Bonsai
from bon, a tray or low-sided pot and sai, a planting or plantings is a Japanese art form using miniature trees grown in containers. In the English language, the term bonsai is often used loosely to reference all miniature-scale trees.

Bonsai
But bonsai refers specifically to a Japanese art form, ascended from the Chinese art of penjing, more than a thousand years ago. Like other forms of art, uses the medium of symbolism to communicate ideas and emotions.

Bonsai Symbolism

Balance
Balance plays an essential role in bonsai aesthetics. The triangle, used in overall design, traditionally symbolizes strength and stability. Rather than following Western rules of symmetry by using equilateral triangles, bonsai incorporates the isosceles triangle. The isosceles, with its unequal sides, provides asymmetry.

Simplicity
Simplicity in bonsai is symbolized by the unadorned container which houses the showpiece. The color of the container, usually a neutral tone, also reflects the theme of simplicity found in nature. Bonsais predominant attention to principles of aesthetics means that the creation remains free of gratuitous ornamentation and maintains its position as the focal point.

Harmony
Careful attention to unity in shapes and textures contributes to the overall sense of harmony found in nature, which is the dominant theme in bonsai. Curves and fluid lines in the composition symbolize natures harmonious coexistence with other elements, while crooked corners and jagged edges represent difficult milestones.

Age
Age plays a significant role in the aesthetics of bonsai. Carefully manipulated characteristics of the trees roots, trunk and branches symbolize different stages of life, especially those marked by age. For instance, exposed roots give the appearance of erosion and age. Trunks that break the surface at an angle and continue with the tree growing in series of circles, produce the illusion of age, and symbolize triumph over the elements of nature.

Bonsai Styles
Classic Bonsai of Japan

Chokkan : Formal upright form

Chokkan trees stretch to the heavens like a gothic cathedral in a straight upright line.

Chokkan : Formal upright form

Imagining a cypress or cedar form is the easiest way to explain the Chokkan form. The divine beauty of the Chokkan bonsai, seen stretching straight upward from any angle it is viewed, is breathtaking. People approaching such a tree feel as if they are enveloped under the branches and granted a moment of heart-warming peace.

Hokidachi : Broom Form

The Hokidachi bonsai gets its name from having a form that looks similar to a "broom" (hoki) with the brush end "sticking upwards" (dachi).

Hokidachi : Broom Form

The Hokidachi stands upright just like the Chokkan, but the branches start radiating outwards from clustered points of origin midway up the trunk, thin out as they climb upwards, and form a fine semi-circle dome at the top.

Shakan : Slanting form

The Shakan bonsai is meant to represent trees growing in harsh environments like the strong winds of a storm swept seashore.

Shakan : Slanting form

The Fukinagashi pays homage to even stronger winds, with a form that stoops to one side. You might sense the strength required to grow in such harsh climates emanating from these trees. The roots on the side opposite of the trunk slant stretch firmly into the ground in order to pull and support the trunk as it is whipped around by the wind.

Moyohgi : Informal upright form

In contrast to the Chokkan bonsai, the Moyohgi expresses the beauty of curves in the trunk and branches.

Moyohgi : Informal upright form

Like old trees dwelling in hills and fields, the Moyohgi evokes the dignity, grace, and refinement of trunks and branches that have bent and twisted over the long years. Powerful stability is exuded from the roots to the trunk, with branches springing out from the outside of trunk curvature. The overall tree form is balanced by the length and angle of the branches.

Kengai : Cascade
Kengai and Hankengai bonsai trees are grown such that the trunk and branches stretch down below the roots

Kengai : Cascade
They droop down from their pots. The curvature of line in the trunk and branches hanging down at a sharp angle from the pot is the feature point in observation. Kengai is said to be one of the oldest bonsai forms, and is particularly popular in the class of SHOHIN bonsai (small-size bonsai: up to 8 in height).

Han-kengai
Trees with branches that extend lower than the bottom of the pot are known as Kengai, and trees that do not reach to the bottom.

Sharimiki or Sharikan, or Sabamiki : Driftwood

In the natural world, the Sharikan effect can be seen mainly among large, old conifer trees such as pine, cedar, and juniper.

Sharimiki or Sharikan, or Sabamiki : Driftwood

The bark on the dead portion decays and the rigid core of the tree is stripped bare. This process of a portion of a tree living in a harsh natural environment dying and becoming bleached is called Sabamiki or Sabakan. When deadwood is present on the branches as well, the term Jin is used.

Bunjingi : Literati form

The Bunjingi bonsai emulates trees growing in the wasteland soil of sandy and barren areas.

Bunjingi : Literati form

The trunks are thin from the bottom to top, the branches are thin and sparse, and the overall form is thin and wiry. Moyogi trunks and branches are thinned, and the lower branches are clipped away to reduce the branch count.These tree illustrations captured the hearts of the Japanese people living in those days, and gradually came to be reproduced as bonsai trees.

Sokan :Twin-trunk
A bonsai tree with one trunk is called Tankan, and trees divided into two or more trunks are classified as Takan.

Sokan :Twin-trunk
A bonsai tree with two trunks is called Sokan, a tree with three trunks is a Sankan, and trees with five or more trunks are called Kabudachi. All types have an odd number of trunks, except for the Sokan of course. Developing an even number of trunks is not practiced.

Sokan :Twin-trunk
Sankan : Triple-Trunk Kabudachi : Multi-Trunk

Neturanari : Root connected

The Neturanari seems similar to the Kabudachi in the sense that multiple trees are connected by one set of roots.

Neturanari : Root connected

The Neturanari is meant to represent a small piece of natural history in which a tree is tumbled over by natural forces like snow, wind, or lightning, sinks into the ground, and then starts a little group of trees from the branches in the soil that thicken into trunks-like entities and spring up from the ground sometimes even building a tiny grove from the remains.

Neagari : Exposed root form

Sometimes floods or mudslides wash away the soil around tree roots, exposing them. When the exposed roots live on after this experience, they are often beaten by the wind and turn into trunks. When this happens to a tree, it is called Neagari.

Ishitzuki : Clinging-to-rock or Planted on rock

The Ishitzuki is a bonsai form that recreates the natural scenery achieved when trees and stones reside side by side. Using stone allows the bonsai artist to create a more detailed display of a mountain area, ocean scene, or island backdrop.

Ishitzuki : Clinging-to-rock or Planted on rock

1st Category A stone is placed vertically, a very small amount of soil is arranged on the stone surface, and a plant is grown in that spot. The tree is planted so that stone looks like a large rocky formation or mountain. 2nd Category A rock placed lengthwise just as the first type. However, the form is arranged such that the roots wrap around the stone. Over long years, if the trunk grows to cover the stone and the two forms merge into one, the "aged aspect is said to be expressed well.

Ishitzuki : Clinging-to-rock or Planted on rock

3rd Category Consists of plants grown in soil placed on top of a flat, plate-like stone which is used as a pot. A multitude of plants spring up from several roots, just like the Yose-ue.

Ishitzuki is one of the oldest forms of bonsai, and it is even said by some that the bonsai tradition began from efforts to recreate in pots the natural scenery of stones and trees grouped together.

Yose-ue : Group planting

The Yose-ue bonsai is a group of plants emerging from several sets of roots grown in a shallow pot or flat stone meant to symbolize a grove or forest setting.

Techniques

 Leaf trimming, the selective removal of leaves (for most varieties of deciduous tree) or needles (for coniferous trees and some others) from a bonsai's trunk and branches. Pruning the trunk, branches, and roots of the candidate tree.

 Wiring branches and trunks allows the bonsai designer to create the desired general form and make detailed branch and leaf placements. Clamping using mechanical devices for shaping trunks and branches.

 Grafting new growing material (typically a bud, branch, or root) into a prepared area on the trunk or under the bark of the tree. Defoliation, which can provide short-term dwarfing of foliage for certain deciduous species. Deadwood bonsai techniques called jin and shari simulate age and maturity in a bonsai.

Aesthetics

 Miniaturization: By definition, a bonsai is a tree kept small enough to be containergrown while otherwise fostered to have a mature appearance. Proportion among elements: The most prized proportions mimic those of a fullgrown tree as closely as possible. Small trees with large leaves or needles are out of proportion and are avoided, as is a thin trunk with thick branches.

 Asymmetry: Bonsai aesthetics discourage strict radial or bilateral symmetry in branch and root placement. No trace of the artist: The designer's touch must not be apparent to the viewer. If a branch is removed in shaping the tree, the scar will be concealed. Likewise, wiring should be removed or at least concealed when the bonsai is shown,

 and must leave no permanent marks on the branch or bark. Poignancy: Many of the formal rules of bonsai help the grower create a tree that expresses Wabi-sabi, or portrays an aspect of mono no aware.

Caring for your Bonsai

Placement
Most bonsai do best with morning sun and afternoon shade, although some species such as junipers, pines and other conifers (cone-bearing trees) can take all day sunshine. Even indoor bonsai trees should be positioned so they get as much morning sun as possible. If your bonsai is placed against a wall you will need to turn it every two weeks or so, or one side will automatically grow toward the sun.

Watering Dos and Donts

Dont try watering your bonsai with a regular garden hose or watering can as this can wash away the soil from the pot. You can water your bonsai with a plant mister, or place the tree in a container of water so that the soil is covered and approximately one inch of the trunk is submerged. Leave the pot in the water for two-to-three minutes and then let drain.

Watering Dos and Donts

Different varieties need more or less water, but a good rule of thumb is that the soil should always be moist, never completely dry. Bonsai need more water during the spring and summer months; you may even have to water daily during hot weather. But be careful not to overwater as this can rot the roots of your bonsai. Yellow leaves often indicate overwatering.

Fertilizing
To keep your bonsai healthy and producing new leaves you need to fertilize it during its growth season, usually every two weeks or so during the early spring and summer and again in early fall. Different types of trees respond better to certain fertilizer mixes.

Fertilizing
While there are special bonsai fertilizers available, you can use almost any plant fertilizer, just be sure to use a mix of half water and half fertilizer as too much fertilizer can burn the root system. In autumn you should use a fertilizer without nitrogen to allow the branches and trunk to harden and prepare for winter.

Trimming and Pruning

Regular trimming and pruning of roots, branches, and leaves is essential to maintain the desired shape of your bonsai. Branches need to be cut back several times a year, especially if there are extra or crossed branches, or branches growing in the wrong direction. At the same time, roots must also be trimmed.

Trimming and Pruning

If you trim branches only and not roots, or vice versa, your tree will appear unbalanced; you should prune branches and roots equally. Youll also need to nip some new shoots and buds to keep the correct style. Always use the appropriate bonsai tools to prune your tree.

Repotting
All bonsai need to be repotted at some point. In general, the faster the tree grows, the sooner it will need repotting, usually within ten months to a year. If your bonsai has an extremely aggressive root structure, and you see roots start to circle around the root system, you need to repot the tree or the roots will overtake the pot.

Repotting
The soil you use to repot your bonsai is important; dont use regular potting soil, ask for special bonsai soil mix at your local nursery or garden center. This is usually a combination of fine gravel and potting compost. When repotting, use a container that is right for the size and style to complement your bonsai.

Material Sources

 Propagation from a source tree through cuttings or layering. Nursery stock directly from a nursery, or from a garden centre or similar resale establishment. Commercial bonsai growers, which, in general, sell mature specimens that display bonsai aesthetic qualities already.

 Collecting suitable bonsai material in its original wild situation, successfully moving it, and replanting it in a container for development as bonsai. These trees are called yamadori and are often the most expensive and prized of all Bonsai.

THE END
Thank you and God bless!