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Garment Sewing Department

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The document discusses different aspects of garment sewing like types of sewing machines, sewing machine beds, defects in sewing etc.

The types of sewing machines discussed are mechanical, electronic, computerized, computer connectable and serger/overlock machines.

The types of sewing machine beds mentioned are flat bed, raised bed, cylinder bed, post bed and off-the-arm beds.

Garment Sewing

Department
BY SAUUMYE CHAUHAN, RIYA KHANDELWAL, SAIMA ZARIN, SAKSHI SINGH & SAIRA GALHOTRA

Trafaluc by Zara
Season

Spring-Summer 2016

Style Name

EMMA4-H

Style Code

1919/081

Buyer

Zara

Country

Spain

Garment

Short Sleeve Top

Fabric

Cotton with Elastane

Front

Back

Side

Black

Colors

White

Measurement

XS

XL

Chest Size (Cms)

80

86

92

98

104

Body Length (Cms)

59

60.5

62

63.5

65

Color/Size

XS

XL

Total

Black

50

150

150

50

50

450

White

50

150

150

50

50

450

Grey

25

75

75

25

25

225

Order Quantity

Packaging
Details

Each Garment Individually Wrapped in Transparent Packets

No Of Pieces In A Carton

36

Grey

Sewing Department
The heart of a manufacturing unit
Procureme
nt of Cut
Panels

Sewing full
garment

Sewing
garment
accessorie
s

Checking
of stitched
garments

Alteration
work of
defective
garments

After receiving the garments components from


cutting section, all the garments parts are joined
and sewn sequentially

Factors To Be Considered In Sewing

Seam
Type

Stitch
Type

Sewing
Needle
Machine used
Mechanis
m

Thread
Used

The Sewing Department At American


Apparel

Pre-Sewing Process
Before the actual task of
sewing begins, there are
certain other tasks that
have to be taken care of
which can be termed as
fabric handling
functions.

Ply
separation

Distinguish
Different
Fabric Parts

Edges are
overlooked

Identification
of the seam
line

Planning of
the sewing
process

Sewing Process For A T-Shirt


A T shirt has six components
Front
Back
Neck rib or Collar
Neck tape
Two sleeves
In the figure, on the top four sections of the
garment component have been shown.
The arrows show the flow of operations and
inside the red circles operation sequence
number and name of the operations has been
written.

Join Rib

Attach
Rib

Production Systems Used In The Sewing


Department
Garmentproductionsystem isawayhowfabricisbeingconverted
intogarmentinamanufacturingsystem.
Make Through
Production
Systems

Modular
Assembly Line

Progressive
Bundle System
Unit Production
System

Make Through Production System

It is the traditional method of manufacturing in which an operator makes right through o


ne garment at a time.

One operator will do all the stages of the sewing operations of one garment

After completing it he will go for the next garment

Disadvantages
Advantages

Quick throughput time


Easier to supervise

Reduce work in progress (WIP)

Uniformity in sewing

Low productivity

High labor cost

Highly experience operator required

Suitable for highly fashion garment


and sample making

Modular Production System


The Modular Production System is expressed with team performance that allows adjustment of frequent
changes in design of clothes, sizes and order of production
The modular system works on the principle of pull-type production systems, in which the job order comes
from the last step to previous steps.

The line layout is U -shaped with garments


progressing around the line.

Each operator is cross trained on a different


portion of line (i.e. continuous operation)
depending on skills and operation complexity.

Each operator is assigned at least one


operation.

Operatives work on standing workstations.

Work In Progress (WIP) is kept to a


minimum.

Progressive Bundle System

In the progressive bundle system (PBS), the bundles of garment parts are moved sequentially from
operation to operation.

Parts of various components after being cut in the cutting room are tied with in bundles and
distributed out to the sewing section.

Bundle ticket is attached to cut parts.

One operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle.

Advantages
Cheaplaborcost
Increaseproductivity
Betterutilizationofspecialized
machine
Verylowvariationinthesewing
Lesschanceforlotmix-up
Bundletrackingisveryeasy

Disadvantages
Line balancing is difficult
Increase in WIP that increase inventory cost
System is not adaptable for short run product
ion and frequent style change
High level of management skill is require
Individual operators that work in a PBS are
dependent on one another

Unit Production System

Each production operator has a task and passes that garment on to the next person.

Normally there is only one garment between operations.

The unit of production is single garment and not bundles

Advantages

Improve productivity
Improve load time
Minimizes WIP
Improve productivity and quality monitor
Improve ergonomics (to provide ease to wor
king staff)
Keep the factory floor clean
Labor cost reduce

Disadvantage
High initial cost required
Special training required
Down time is potential problem

Sewing Machine
A sewing machine is a machine used to
stitch fabric and other materials together
with thread.
Sewing machines have been a household staple
since American inventor, Isaac Singer, successfully
mass produced a version of the machine capable of
stitching on any area on the fabric.
Sewing machines were invented during the
first Industrial Revolution

Also called an
overlock
machine,
The serger can
sew on the
edges of the
fabric only.
These
machines are
useful for
cutting and
binding fabric
edges,
stitching
stretch knits
together, and
making rolled
hems on flimsy
material.

Industrial machines

These are
open-system,
expandable
sewing
machines
Allow users to
interface with
home
computers to
use designs
outside of the
library.

Sergers

Sewing
machines
equipped with
computer chips
do not need a
cam to create a
pattern.
The built-in
stitch library is
extensive and
efficient.
These sewing
machines have
the capacity to
repeat a
designated
pattern

Computer connectable sewing machines

Electronic
circuit boards
were
incorporated
in electricpowered
sewing
machines
Allowed speed
control without
sacrificing
power and
improved
needle and
bobbin control.
Have limited
stitch selection

Computerized sewing machines

Older models
were powered
with a handcrank, a
system of
gears, and a
foot pedal.
Capable of
sewing straight
and zigzag
stitches

Electronic sewing machines

Mechanical sewing machines

Types Of Sewing Machine


Limited to
straight
stitches and
zigzags.
They are not
capable of
sewing
buttonholes
and
embellishment
s,
They are very
fast.
Stitching is
accurate and
the finished
product is
professional.

Sewing Machine Parts

Thread-guides

Stitch
regulator

Take-up lever

Tension discs/check
-spring

Needle bar
Needle

Reversing
lever

Throat plate

Machine bed
Presser foot

Types Of Sewing Machine Beds


Flat Bed Sewing Machine
Flat bed machine is used for
lock stitch or chain stitch.
It has a large working area so
material can easily pass.

Uses
It has widest application in garment
sewing in basic type

Raised Bed Sewing Machine


Features
Raised bed machine also used for
lock stitch and chain stitch formation
It facilities the assembly of pre-sewn.

Uses
It is used for fitting accessories and for
button holer

Cylinder Bed Machine


Features
Cylinder bed sewing machine is used
for producing lock and chain stitch on
the fabric.
It has increased working height (like
an arm).

Uses

It is used for sewing tubular parts,


trouser legs and sleeves.
It is also used for button sewing and
bar tacking.

Post Bed Sewing Machine


Features
Post bed sewing machine is used for
forming lock and chain stitch.
It has increased working height.

Uses
It is specially used for shoes and bags.

Off-The Arm Sewing Machine


Features
these machines require workers to feed
material along the axis of a horizontal
column
The design limits the length of the seam
sewn to the length of the column

Uses
It is useful for applications such as sleeve
and shoulder seams

Defects In Sewing

Irregular Stitch
Uneven Stitch

Needle Mark
Thread Breakage

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