Textile Testing and Product

Evaluation
 Different factors
• Test Methods
• Test Results
Sources of Standard Test Methods
• ASTM :American Society for Testing and
Material.
• AATCCC: American Association of Textile and
Colorists.
• ISO : International Standards Organization.
• BSI : Bureau of Indian Standards.
• BSI : British Standards Institution
• CSA : Canadian Standards Association.
 Atmospheric Condition for testing
• Relative Humidity : Standard 65 +/- 2%.
• Temperature : 21 +/- 1 C ( 70 +/- 2 F ).
• Test samples should be left for 4 hours to
reach equilibrium with standard RH and
temperature.
 Strength Properties of Apparel
• Strength of fabric or garment indicates its
ability to resist mechanical damage due to the
stresses of normal wear and laundering or
dry-cleaning.
• Strength properties of Apparel can be divided
into the following three areas
1. Fabric Strength.
2. Seam Strength.
3. Resistance to yarn slippage.
 Fabric Strength
• Fabric strength can be divided into three areas
1. Resistance to tensile force ( Breaking
Strength ).
2. Resistance to tearing/ shearing force ( Tear
Strength)
3. Resistance to bursting force ( bursting
Strength)
 Breaking Strength
• Used for woven fabrics.
• Can be measured length/ width or both.
• A specimen of 15 cm X 10 cm is placed
between two sets of jaws 7.6 cm apart.
• Jaws are then pulled away from each other
creating a tensile force on the fabric
specimen, ultimately resulting a break in the
fabric specimen.
 Tearing Strength
• Tearing strength refers to its resistance to
tearing or shearing force.
• Used for shirting, bloused , military fabrics
such as parachutes, test not suitable for the
knit fabrics , felts or non woven fabric with
exceptions.
 Tear Strength
• A rectangular specimen is cut in the centre of a
short edge to form two tongued ( trouser shape )
specimen, in which one tongue is gripped in
upper jaw and other in lower jaw.
• The separation of the jaw is continuously
increased to apply a force to propagate the tear.
• Force to propagate and continue the tear is
calculated from autographic chart recorder or
microprocessor data collection.
 Bursting Strength
• Bursting test are done for knitted fabrics , light
weight woven fabric and the non woven
fabrics.
• Bursting strength is the force , uniformity
distributed over a given area, needed to break
a fabric when applied at right angels to the
fabrics.
 Seam Strength
• Seam strength is tested in almost the same
manner as fabric breaking strength or tearing
strength
• Seam Failure in a garment can occur because
of either failure of sewing thread, leaving the
fabric intact , or fabric rupture leaving the
fabric seam intact or both breaking at the
same time.
 Elements affecting the Seam Strength
• Stitch type : Seam made with chain stitch will be stronger than
seam made with lock stitch.
• Thread Strength.
• SPI ( Stitches per inch ). Up to a level will increase the strength and
beyond that level will weaken the fabric so seam will be intact but
fabric will get ruptured.
• Thread Tension : Increasing the tension beyond a certain point will
lead to seam puckering.
• Seam Type : Lapped felled seam will be stronger from the lapped
seam.
• Seam Efficiency : It is defined as the seam strength expressed as %
fabric breaking strength.
• Elasticity : Elasticity of the seam or stitching should be slightly
greater than that of material which it join.
 Additional
• Seam Slippage in case of woven fabric
depends on the stitch rate, weave structure
and the width of the seam allowance.
• Seam cracking in case of the knitted fabric
depends on the elasticity.
 Fabric Stretch Properties
• Stretch is required in all apparel products
more in sportswear and swimwear.
• Stretch requirement are more at Across
Shoulder , Neck Rib , Hip, Knee and Elbow .
• Stretch
• Stretch recovery.
Dimensional Changes is Apparel due to
Laundering , dry cleaning and Pressing
• Shrinkage due to fiber, yarn and fabric
shrinkage. ( Pre Shrunk by Sanforizing ).
• A fabric specimen marked 10” X 10” ( or max
1meter X 1 meter) in both length and width
with indelible ink is washed/ dry-cleaned and
conditioned. Again the distance is calculated
and the shrinkage percentage is calculated.
• Based on requirement progressive shrinkage
can also be calculated for 3/5 wash.
 Durable Press
• Durable press is the term used to describe
fabric or garment that will retain its original
shape and smoothness and sharpness of
crease through wear and repeated laundering
and not require ironing.
• Fabric / garment is washed 3/5 times and than
store at standard atmospheric condition for 2
hrs and than compare with scale of 1-5.
 Bow and Skewness (BIAS)
• Filling yarn in woven and coarse in knitted are
perpendicular to the selvedge in case there is deviation
bow and skewness( Bias) is noticed as per the
deviation.
• Bow and Skewness can be induces during cloth
manufacturing , dyeing , stentering, finishing or other
operations where a potential exists for the uneven
distribution of tension across the fabric width.
• More prominent in color pattern and small parts.
• Garment twisting.
• No standard value for bow( Arc ) and Skew.
• Both expressed in percentage.
 Pilling
• It is Surface defect characterized by little fiber
balls clinging to cloth surface and giving a
garment un unsightly appearance.
• Such balls or pills are evident on the areas of
garments where some abrasion takes place
during normal wear such as collar , cuff , side and
back pockets of trousers and so on.
• Fibers such as wool , polyester , nylon and acrylic
have a tendency to pill.
• Earlier – low twisted woolen knitted fabrics and
aggravated in the man made fibers.
 Pilling depends on
• Fiber length
• Denier,
• Fiber mechanical properties.
• Yarn twist level,
• Fabric construction,
• Fabric finishing treatment
• End use of the apparel.
 Pilling test
• Fabrics are mounted on the Martindale tester
and the face of the test specimen is rubbed.
• Specimen is than tested against the visual
standards.
• ASTM has developed three sets of five
photographic standards, each set
corresponding to the size of pills produced,
small , medium and large.
• Compared to Scale 1-5.
 Color Fastness
• AATCC has developed three scales that help
visual comparison between the original color
and color change and /or staining of the test
specimen. These scales are gray scales for
color change and staining , and chromatic
transference scale.
 Gray scale for color change
• This scale consists of nine pairs of standard
gray chips , each pair representing a difference
in color or contrast ( shade and strength )
corresponding to numerical fastness rating.
• Test result are rated by visually comparing the
difference in color represented by the scale.
 Gray Scale for Staining
• This scale consists of pairs of nominally white and gray
color chips , each representing a difference in color or
contrast ( shade and strength ) corresponding to a
numerical rating for staining.
• A swatch of the unstained fabrics and the tested piece of it
are placed side by side in the same plane and oriented in
the same direction.
• The visual difference between the original unstained and
tested stained pieces is compared with the difference
represented by the gray scale which corresponds to the
contrast between the original and tested specimen.
• Rating from 1-5, 5 means no difference in color between
the original material and the tested piece of it.
 Chromatic Transference Scale
• This scale makes use of 30 color chips.
• The neutral chip representing the horizontal no 5 as
well as neutral gray chips were selected to correspond
to the gray chips of all the steps on the gray scale for
staining.
• The rows are placed and aligned so that every color
shows a similar graduation in depth in a vertical line,
ranging from the lightest tint on top to the heaviest
tints on the bottom.
• The rows are mounted with sufficient space between
them to show circular holes cut in the card over each
clip in the five horizontal rows.
 Chromatic Transference Scale
• The fabric exhibiting the transferred color to be
evaluated is placed behind the card on which the
chips are mounted so that a representative part
of the colored portion is visible through one of
the circular holes in the vertical column closest to
it in character of shade.
• The standard undyed fabrics used in the
colorfastness testing are multifiber and 100%
cotton.
• Multifiber fabric : There are several styles of multi
fiber fabrics used in conjunction with
colorfastness tests, but the fabrics used most for
evaluating staining in laundering , dry cleaning ,
and perspiration are the style No 1 and 10 which
are made of fibers listed below.
• Cotton fabrics : This fabric is used for evaluating
color transfer in crocking ( rubbing ) and hot
pressing. It is made of desized and bleached 80 X
80 , 100% cotton print cloth.
• Metamerism: When two objects are seen to have the
same color under one light source but a different color
under another light source , then this phenomenon is
called metamerism.
• To eliminate the source of light as a variable element,
most of the test methods for colorfastness tests
recommend evaluation of the test specimen under
north sky light or an equivalent light source with an
illumination of at least 538 lux ( 50-ft candles) on the
specimen surface. The Macbeth shade chamber
provide such a light source. Also it provide day light
and incandescent light, so a test specimen may be
evaluated under more than one lighting condition.
 Colorfastness to Washing
• The instrument used in this test method is called
Launderometer.
• A piece of multi-fiber fabric is attached to a test
specimen of the size 5 X 10 cm.
• This specimen is then put in a steel jar filled with
soap solution and several tiny steel balls.
• This jar is than placed in the launderometer
which can accommodate up to 20 jars, one
specimen per jar.
• These jar are than rotated for 45 minutes to
create agitation action.
 Colorfastness to Washing
• Then the specimen are removed from the jars,
rinsed under running water and allowed to
dry. Then the staining of the multifiber fabric
is rated using either the gray scale for staining
or chromatic transparence scale, and the
change in the original color /shade of the
specimen is rated using gray scale for color
change.
• Rating should not be worse than class 3 or 4
 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning
• This test is done in the same way as colorfastness to
washing , except that instead of using soap solution ,
dry cleaning solution (perchloroethylene ) is used.
• Perchloroethylene is used in this test because
1. It is as extensively used as the stoddard solvent
(petroleum solvent) in commercial dry-cleaning in the
united states and
2. It is more severe in solvent action than the Stoddard
solvent. A color unaffected by perchloroethylene will
not be affected by petroleum solvents , where as the
converse is not always true.
 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning
• If it is necessary to evaluate the effect of
water spotting , solvent spotting and steam
pressing which are normally associated with
commercial dry-cleaning, then it is best to
send the fabric or garment for one or more
repeated dry-cleaning. Then evaluate this
sample compared to the original, non dry-
cleaned sample.
 Colorfastness to Light
• The resistance to degradation of fabric dyes and
prints due to light is an important requirement of
a garment.
• The assessment of fastness to light necessitates
the use of reference standard.
• Whether exposure are made in actual sunlight or
by accelerated means of utilizing artificial light
source.
• Reference standard.
• Blue Wool Standards.
 Colorfastness to Light
• The test instrument used in the colorfastness of light
test is called the Fadeometer and/or waethrOmeter.
• This instrument uses , as a light source, either a
carbon-or Xenon arc lamp .
• Artificial light Source : Consistent and speedy results
but light source should simulate the effect of the
natural Sunlight.
• Carbon arc is stronger in the ultraviolet region and
would be expected to produce a greater effect on
colored Textiles, where as Xenon arc exposure
generally correlates more closely with sunlight.
• Time and intensity.
 Colorfastness to Crocking
• The test is designed to determine the degree of
color that may transfer from the surface of
colored textiles to the other surfaces by rubbing.
• A colored test specimen fastened to the base of a
Crock meter is rubbed with a white test cloth is
assessed by comparison with AATCC chromatic
transference scale or gray scale for staining.
• Wet and dry both colorfastness to crocking are
tested.
 Colorfastness to Perspiration
• A specimen of colored textile 6 X 6 cm is wet with
a simulated perspiration solution , subjected to a
fixed mechanical pressure in contact with a piece
of multifiber test fabric, also wet with the
simulated perspiration solution , and allowed to
dry slowly at a slightly elevated temperature for 6
hours.
• Test specimen is evaluated for color change and
staining on the multifiber test fabric with the help
of the AATCC gray scale.
 Colorfastness to Abrasion
• Frosting is a change of color in a fabric caused by
localized abrasive wear.
• It may be the result of differential wear, as in
multicomponent blends in which the fibers do
not match in shade, or of the abrasion of single-
fiber construction in which there is variation in or
incomplete penetration of dyestuff.
• There are two method
1. The emery method and
2. Screen wire method.
• The Emery method.
Suitable for color change over a long period of time.
The test specimen is mounted over a diaphragm
inflated under controlled air pressure and rubbed
multidirectional against an emery abradant surface
mounted on weighted head for specific number of rubs
for a specified time.
Any change in the color of the specimen is evaluated
by comparison with the gray scale for color change.
• The Screen wire method
Suitable for color change over a short period of
time.
The test specimen is mounted over a foam rubber
cushion and rubbed multidirectionally against a
wire screen mounted on a weighted head for a
specific number of a rubs or for a specified time.
Any change in color of the specimen is evaluated
by comparison with gray scale for color change.
 Color fastness to Heat : Hot Pressing
• Many disperse dyes , since they have no strong
ionic group , exhibit a significant vapor pressure
and, when exposed to sufficient heat , will go
from solid to a gas without passing through a
liquid phase.
• If a fabric dyed with disperse dye is exposed to
high temperature , the dye may sublime and the
dye vapor may be absorbed by adjacent fibers.
• This test method is intended for determining the
resistance of the color of textiles of all kind and in
forms to color change and color transfer.
 Color fastness to Heat : Hot Pressing
• The test method is intended for determining
the resistance of color of textiles of all kinds
and in all forms to color change and color
transfer when subjected to hot pressing. Tests
are given for hot pressing when a fabric is dry
damp and wet. The textile end use usually
determine which tests should be conducted.
 Colorfastness to Burnt gas Fumes
• For assessing resistance of color of textiles of
all kinds and in all forms to fading when
exposed to atmospheric nitrogen, as derived
from the combustion of illuminating or
heating gas.
• This test should also be performed after
laundering or dry cleaning the sample to
check any effect laundering or dry cleaning
may have had on its resistance to fading.
 Colorfastness to Ozone
• This method is intended to determine the resistance of
the color of all kinds of textile to the action of ozone in
the atmosphere.
• Fabrics are exposed to ozone in a test chamber at a
specified temperature and humidity.
• Humidity is a definite factor in the rate of color change
with ozone , either of the following two conditions may
be used
1. Ambient room temperature , and RH 65%
2. 40degree +/- 4 degree and 85 +/- 5% RH
Rating should not be worse than 4
 Other Test
• Banned Amines ( Azo , PCP and
formaldehyde)
• Print durability.
• Print fastness.
• Embroidery thread fastness
• Trim fabric and trims attached.
 Soil / Stain Release( SR )
• A fabric specimen is stained.
• Laundered in standard conditioned and than
compare with scale of 1-5.
 Fabric Thickness
• Fabric thickness is not measured as a routine
quality control procedure; warmth and bulk
are dependent.
• Abrasion resistance., no. of fabric lays in
cutting garments.
• Thickness depends on the pressure.
 Water Resistance and water
Repellency
• Water resistance is an important property of
fabric intended for uses such as raincoats, tents,
umbrellas.
• Three ways in which water can pass through
1. By wetting the fabric , followed by capillary
action which brings the water to the other side.
2. By pressure of the water , forcing it through the
opening of the fabric.
3. By a combination of the two actions already
mentioned.
 Waterproof
• A waterproof fabric is a fabric that is coated or
impregnated to form a continuous wall against
the passage of water or a continuous sheet of
rubber or plastic.
• Water resistance is the ability of a fabric to resist
wetting and penetration of water.
• A water repellent fabric is one whose fibers are
usually coated with hydrophobic type compounds
and whose pores are not filled in the course of
treatment. This type of fabric is quite permeable
to air and water vapor.
• Resistance to water penetration increases
rapidly with increasing weight and thickness
of the fabric.
• Woven fabric generally have better resistance
to water penetration than corresponding knit
structures.
 Water Repellent finishes
• Hydrocarbon: Hydrocarbon repellent which
are hydrophobic and oleophillic, repel water
but quickly pick up soil and stains.
• Fluorocarbon repellents are both hydrophobic
and oleo phobic, not only fluorocarbon are
outstanding water repellents but they also
resist oily and greasy substance.
 Snagging
• Snagging is as a defect caused by the pulling
or plucking of yarns from a fabric surface.
• ASTM has two test methods , mace test
method and bean test method, for testing
snag resistance.
 Abrasion Resistance
• Abrasion or wear is the wearing away of any part of a
material by rubbing against another surface.
• Carpets are often discarded because of extensive wear,
trouser and shirts because of fraying cuffs and collars, worn
seats and elbows. Abrasion because of friction b/w cloth
and cloth , cloth and external object or very slowly due to
friction b/w fibers and dust or grit.
• The measurement of abrasion resistance is complex , the
resistance to abrasion is affected by many factors
 Inherent mechanical properties of the fibers
 The dimension of fibers, structure of yarn
 Construction of fabric
 And the type , kind and amount of finishing material added.
 Abrasion Resistance
• The following are the most common tests to evaluate
the abrasion or wear resistance for apparel :
1. Inflated diaphragm method The specimen is held in a
fixed position and supported by an inflated rubber
diaphragm.
2. Flexing and abrasion method : Mainly used for
evaluating the abrasion resistance for corduroy,
velour and pile fabrics. In this method , a specimen is
subjected to unidirectional reciprocal folding and
rubbing over a metal bar having specified
characteristics.
 Abrasion Resistance
3. Oscillatory Cylinder method: Used for any fabric ,
In this test method a specimen is subjected to
unidirectional rubbing under known conditions of
pressure, tension and abrasion action.
4. Rotary Platform method: Used for heavy fabrics
such as jeans, overcoat , carpets etching this
method specimen is abraded using rotary rubbing
action under controlled conditions of pressure
and abrasive action
 Abrasion Resistance
5. Edge and fold abrasion method: Fabrics
frequently wear out on edges and folds such
as the cuffs and the vertical creases of
trouser, sleeve cuff , collars , and so on.
Evaluation of the resistance to abrasion may be
based on any of the following criteria
1. Number of rubs or revolutions required to
wear a hole in the specimen
 Abrasion Resistance
2. The specimen is subjected to a certain number
of rubs or revolutions, and then one of the
following is evaluated.
• Overall appearance, loss in color or shade , signs
of damaged yarns fibers and so on
• Loss in the breaking strength of the specimen
• Loss in the weight of the specimen
• Decrease in the thickness of the specimen.
• Change in the air permeability of the specimen.
Bonded and Laminated Apparel fabrics
• “A layered fabric structure where in a face or shell
fabric is joined to a backing fabric , such as tricot,
with an adhesive that does not significantly add
to the thickness of the fabrics”
• The problem associated with above fabrics are
localized delamination resulting in blisters or
bubbles, crack marks , puckering and complete
separation of face and back of the fabric.
• For shrinkage specimen of 25cm X 25 cm is dry
cleaned / laundered three times.
• For testing strength of bond three test specimen
of 15 X 7.5 cm in the length directions are taken.
 Testing of Fusible Interlinings
• The purpose of fusible interlining is to give shape
or form and improve aesthetics of a garment.
• The best to test is to fuse the interlining with
actual fabric and test before the start of the bulk
production.
• Shrinkage
• Drape
• Strength
• Strike Back
• Strike through
• Bubbling.
 Testing of Zippers
• Zippers can be tested using any one or more
of the following ASTM test method:-
• Durability of finish of Zippers to dry
cleaning/laundering
• C/F of Zippers to Dry-
Cleaning/crocking/light/laundering
• Resistance of Zippers to Salt spray (fog)
• Measuring Zipper dimensions
• Strength test of Zippers
• Operability of Zippers.
 Testing of Zippers
• Zippers strength is usually tested in the following
areas:
1. Cross wise strength
2. Scoop pull-off.
3. Holding strength of stops.
4. Scoop Slippage
5. Resistance to cushioned compression of sliders.
6. Slide deflection and recovery.
7. Resistance to twist of pull and slider
8. Resistance to pull of slider pull.
 Elastic Waistband Testing
• There are three properties of elastic
waistband that need testing
1. Shrinkage
2. Fit for the labeled size
3. Resistance to degradation ( becoming lose .
Loosing elasticity ) due to laundering
 Test of Yarns
• Elongation and Strength
• Yarn Number
• Yarn twist
 Sewing thread
• Diameter
• Strength and Elongation
• Shrinkage
• Twist and Twist Balance.
• Yarn Number.
 Additional Trims
• Buttons
• Snap Fasteners