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Garments Defect

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Garments Defect

• Garments Defects
• The defect is the common term in the garment industry. Garment
defects are also well known as reject the item. Different types of
defects are found in the garment industry. In garments industry these
defects are dependent upon the classification of defects and an
inspector’s ability to make decisions. Creating a list of every defect that
might be encountered during a quality inspection is not realistic. Having
said that, the tables which follow do provide details of the majority of
defects. According to the garments workmanship and appearance
garments defects are divided in the three ways-
• 1. Critical defects
• 2. Major defects
• 3. Minor defects
• 1. Critical Defects
• A critical defect is one that is likely to result in hazardous or unsafe
conditions when using the product. A critical defect is also a deviation from
delivery requirements which prevents the product from being received. If
one (1) occurrence of critical defect is observed during the inspection, the
entire lot will be rejected. A 100% inspection will be carried-out by the
garments factory QA Staff to remove the defective product/s.
• 2. Major Defects
• A major defect is one that is likely to result in a customer complaint or
return. A major defect is also one that will most likely result in product
failure after a period of time that is considered unacceptable to the
customer or end user. A major defect will usually (but not always) be
obvious to the inspector during the visual garments inspection. It will also
be obvious to the customer during use.
• 3. Minor Defects
• A minor defect is one that is unlikely to result in customer complaint
or return. A minor defect is a deviation from the required standard,
but one that is unlikely to affect the usability of the product. A minor
defect will usually be seen by the inspector, but may be overlooked by
the customer.
• Garments Defect Table
• Defining whether the defect is Critical, Major or Minor might require
some degree of personal judgment. Some defects might be obvious –
others less so. It is essential that the quality controlinspectors are
familiar with all of the defect types contained in these defect tables. It
is also important that these inspectors have sufficient experience and
knowledge to ensure the right decision is made. The tables are
designed to be used for reference only – they are not a fully
comprehensive list of faults and must not be considered inclusive or
exhaustive.
SL Garments Workmanship and Appearance Critical Major

1. Brand name differs from PO/sample X –

2. Broken / Skip stitch – X

3. Open seam or hem – X

4. Wavy seams/stitch – –

5. Collar Fullness or tightness of fabric (Bubbling) – X

6. Unintentional pleats form along the seam – –


6. Unintentional pleats form along the seam – –

7. Missing / wrong accessories – X

8. Thread discoloration – –

9. Incorrect interlining weight in relation to the fabric – –

10. Sharp ends, Bent Buttons / snaps post X –

11. Button too big for the buttonhole – X

12. Buttonhole too big for the button – X

13. Zipper puller self-lock not secure – X

14. Zipper slider does not glide through the zipper teethsmoothly – X
15. Zipper stitching margin too small that may cause slider to jam – X

16. Snapping action too tight to close – X

17. Snapping action too loose to close adequately – X

18. Belt loop Missing/Incomplete – X

19. Color shade variation within a box – X

20. Missing collar bone – X

21. Broken hanger resulting to sharp end/edge X –


22. Poorly attached hanger hook – X

23. Poly bag / inner box damage / wrinkled – –

24. Brand name differs from PO/sample X –

25. Poly bag / inner box too loose or too tight – X


Different Types of Defects in Garments:
1. Spirality
2. Shade difference within a same garment
3. Holes
4. Stain
5. Puckered seam
6. Open seams / Broken seams
7. Broken stitches
8. Dropped stitches/Skipped stitches
9. Wavy stitches/Staggered stitches
10. Uncut/ loose thread
11. Sizing defects
12. Poor ironing
13. Seams not aligned at crossing of seams
14. Distorted knitting
15. Broken buttons
16. Defective snaps
17. Defective snaps
18. Exposed notches
19. Exposed raw edges
20. Fabric defects
21. Inoperative zipper
22. Untrimmed thread ends
23. Misaligned buttons and holes
24. Missing buttons
25. Needle cuts / chews
26. Incorrect or mixed sew in labels
27. Incorrect or mixed swing tickets/bar codes
28. Pulled / loose yarn
29. Oil/ dirt mark on surface
30. Unfinished buttonhole
31. Zipper too short
• Garment Defects Causes and Remedies

• Spirality:

• Causes:• Yarn twist too high.


• • Yarn quality is very poor.
• • Bad combination between yarn twist & machine rotation direction.
• Remedies:
• • Control of yarn twist (yarn twist should never be above 700 try/m).
• • Reduction of feeder number.
• • Appropriate finishing reduces fabric spirality.
Different shades within the same garment:
Seams appear to be lighter or darker than the other seams surrounding it.

Fig: Shade variation in same garment

Causes:

 It arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering.


 Uneven to batch missing shade.
 Different Batch mixing for same garment.
Remedies:

 After cutting the garment parts must be kept in proper bundle with number.
 One batch fabric shade is used for same garment in every part.
Hole:
Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the other side.

Fig: Hole in garment

Causes:

 Holes can come from fabric or it could be caused by the production side, either by improper
trimming or broken needle puncturing the fabric.
 Very stiff & dry yarn
 Fluff
 Improper cleaning
Remedies:

 Better inspection of fabric and cut piece.


 Use a fabric fault detector.
 Air humidification
 Use of yarn having lower hairiness.
Stain:

Causes:

 INK, Food and drinks that are spilled on the garment stain. are one of the most common ways
clothing becomes stained.
Remedies:

 Iron should be regularly checked for dirt/impurities and malfunctions


 Lubricant free, Teflon coated thread take up hooks
 Operator cleanliness and discipline
 Organised, clean and well ventilated workplace
Steam should not be substituted with water
Seam Puckering:
Seam puckering refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing an
unacceptable seam appearance.

Fig: Seam puckering

Causes:
This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing , improper thread
tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc.

Remedies:

 Feed dog, eyelets and thread guides should be checked periodically for damages
 Machine feed mechanism must be better quality
 Operator training
 Tension, SPI and presser foot pressure should not be fiddled with much
 UBT/trimmer should be used instead of pulling and breaking thread
 Needle-thread-fabric combination should be well judged
 Sewing thread must be selected properly
Open seam or broken seam:
Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread.

Fig: Open seam in garment

Causes:

 This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments, improper setting and timing
between needle and looper or hook etc.
Remedies:

 Pattern needs to be correct


 Clear markings for stitch line
 Good quality or D-core thread should be used
 Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook.
 Worker training
 Threading, SPI and backtack settings should be checked oftenly
 Proper handling of the parts of garments
 Tension should be quantifiable
 Feed dog and hook set timing should be checked periodically
Broken Stitch:
Non-continuous sewing thread.

Fig: Broken stitch in garment

Causes:

 It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.


Remedies:

 Needle plate, presser foot and feed dog should be checked periodically for damages
 Proper machine usage
 Tension and threading should not be fiddled with much
 Washing parameters should be strictly followed
 Proper trimming
 Good quality or D-core thread should be used
 Needle thread fabric combination should be well judged
 Needle alignment should be right
Drop stitch/Skipped stitch:
Irregular stitching along the seam.

Fig: Drop stitch

Causes:

 It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage.


Remedies:

 Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped.
 Placing of needle properly.
 The tension of thread should be adjusted.
 Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.
 The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.
Wavy/staggered stitching:
Stitches are not straight.

Causes:

 It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces , faulty feed mechanism , needle deflection
or wrong needle.
Remedies:

 Shrinkage should be taken into account beforehand and suitable thread should be used
 Needle to be changed
 Needle size and thread size should be changed
 Operator training
 Guides should be provided
 Feed mechanism to be changed
 Tension, SPI and presser foot pressure should not be fiddled with much
 Feed dog should be checked periodically

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