,, Ion Ionescu de la Brad “

University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine of Iași , Romania

Faculty of Horticulture
Specialization Horticulture

Propagation by grafting and

budding

Presented by Eramus student – Buzuc Ștefan-Nicu

From Romania
Winter semester – 2020/2021
19/01/2021
Wrocław University of Environmental and Life Sciences, Poland
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Content
• Introduction
• Reasons for propagating by grafting or budding
• Factors affecting the success of grafting or budding
• Methods of grafting and budding
• Example- Steps for T-shaped budding in Roses
• Сonclusion
• Bibliography

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Introduction
• Most plants multiply from their seeds. Certain plants are preferentially multiplied from their parts such as
stem, roots, or leaves. Multiplication of plants using parts other than seeds is known as vegetative (asexual)
propagation and the resultant plants are referred to as clones. For various reasons some plants are
multiplied by combining vegetative plant parts (stem or vegetative buds) from two separate plants into one.
• Grafting and budding are techniques used to combine one plant part with another to encourage growth as a
unified plant.
• Grafting is accomplished by inserting a piece of stem containing 3 to 4 vegetative buds onto the stem of the
plant that will serve as the root system for the unified plant. In nature, two closely related plants growing in
proximity may establish graft union on their own. For budding or bud grafting, a single vegetative bud on a
stem is excised and attached to the stem of the rootstock. The plant that develops is known as a budded
plant. Budding is preferred to grafting when plant material is in limited supply.
• Grafting and budding are used to increase the number of plants of a variety which does not come true from
seed and which cannot · be economically reproduced by cuttage, layerage, or similar vegetative methods or
where special root stocks are desirable.
• Besides the actual manipulations of grafting and budding, careful planting, thorough cultivation, and other
cultural operations are necessary to produce properly shaped tops and well developed root systems.
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Reasons for propagating by grafting or
budding
• The major objective of grafting or budding is to multiply plants identical (true-
to-type) to the parent plant. Although propagation of plants via methods other
than grafting and budding are much simpler, grafting and budding are used as
the principal methods of propagation in certain plants such as fruit trees.
• Grafting and budding are used as methods of choice to :
1) propagate plants when relatively simpler methods such as stem cuttings,
layering, or seeds are ineffective, climatic or soil conditions are unfavorable, or
major modifications to plant architecture are needed;
2) change plant cultivars;
3) repair damaged plants.

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• Grafting can also be used to repair damaged plant parts. For example, trees girdled
by rodents just above the soil level often die due to lack of carbohydrate transport to
the roots. Such trees can be saved by reestablishing the conduction of nutrients
between root and shoot via repair grafting . In addition, grafting can produce
interesting plant combinations.

• Grafting can be employed in developing interesting plant combinations such as the

following.
I) Grafting cactus
II) Approach grafting of plants grown in two different containers to develop an arch.5
Factors affecting the success of grafting or
budding
• Besides good grafting skills, success in grafting or budding depends on a number of factors
related to the plant and surrounding environmental conditions
• Time of year:
In general, spring to late summer is desirable for grafting or budding outdoors. During
spring, the environmental conditions are conducive for active growth of plants.
Spring is also associated with restoration of cambial activity and flow of sap which result in
easy removal of bark (slippery bark) to facilitate grafting and/ or budding operations. Budding
done in early summer in areas with long growing seasons is called “June” budding.Budding
done in August or early September is called “fall” budding. However, grafting and budding can
also be done during winter on certain deciduous plants.
Bare-root rootstocks are grafted in winter and maintained indoors. When planted the following
spring, the grafted or budded plant resumes growth. This technique is commonly known as
“bench grafting.”
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Compatibility of stock and scion:
• Compatibility of stock and scion: For grafted plants to unite and grow successfully, the
combined plant parts (stock and scion) should be compatible with each other. Closely
related plants have a good chance of forming a union, while those remotely related have
little or no chance. This concept is explained in the compatibility pyramid (Fig. 6).
• Plants in the grass family and other monocotyledonous plants cannot be grafted or
budded, so they are outside the compatibility pyramid. Conifers and other flowering
plants, as well as many herbaceous and woody plants, can be grafted. The highest success
in grafting or budding is achieved by grafting plants within or between clones.
• The term “graft incompatibility” refers to unsatisfactory graft union that may or may not
lead to a total failure. For example, incompatibility caused by the overgrowth of a
rootstock (Fig. 7) may not lead to death of the unified plant.
• Of particular importance is the cambial ring located between the vascular tissues of the
stock and scion, namely, the xylem and phloem. The xylem is involved in the transport of
water from root to the aerial parts, while the phloem conducts sugars, nutrients, and
hormones from the leaves to the roots and storage organs. The cambium is the layer of
dividing cells in the stem that is responsible for increasing in stem diameter.
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• Fig. 6. The effect of a botanical relationship on the success of union between stock and scion. Plants belonging to monocots
(e.g., the grass family) lack cambium and cannot be grafted. Similarly, monocots cannot be grafted on to dicotyledonous plants.
Therefore, they are placed outside the compatibility pyramid. Closely related plants have a good chance, while those remotely
related have little or no chance of forming graft union. The highest success in grafting or budding can be achieved by grafting
plants within or between clones. 8
Temperature
• Grafting is usually completed during the dormant season when temperatures are
cool. Graft union formation is slow at 4°C or lower.
• If temperatures become too warm soon after grafting, shoot buds may grow and
produce a leaf surface that depletes moisture reserves in the scion before a graft
union is formed.
• For this reason, temperatures should not exceed 15°C for 2–3 weeks following
grafting unless scion buds are still in their rest period.
• The rest period is a physiological condition preventing growth of deciduous woody
plants, completed by exposure to cool temperatures (5°C or less) that stimulate
further growth. Union formation following summer budding is favored by
temperatures around 21°C when callus formation is rapid. Temperatures above
32°C slow or stop callus formation.
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• Age of plant parts:
Budsticks should be 1 year or less; scions 1 to 2 years old, and rootstocks 2 years or less.
• Scion orientation (polarity):
For a graft union to be successful, the stock and scion should be oriented the way they normally
grow
• Care of grafted plants:
The surfaces of the stock and scion at the union must be protected from drying.Cover the exposed
surface after scion and stock are fitted together with grafting wax or other protective materials. Grafts
may also require re-waxing, tying for support, or light pruning to direct growth after shoots emerge.
• Soil moisture:
For maximum cambial activity, the soil moisture supply must be ample. Adequate soil moisture is
particularly important during and shortly after summer budding.
• Contact of stock and scion:
Graft and bud unions are promoted by a good, snug fit between the new stock and scion. In some
cases, such as cleft grafting, the fit is natural In other methods of grafting, tying materials promote
proper contact between the stock and scion. Clean and smooth cuts on the stock and scion are required
to promote maximum contact.

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Collection and handling of scion material
• If freezing temperatures are likely to damage plant tissues, we can collect scion wood for
grafting in the fall after normal leaf drop but before severe winter temperatures. Otherwise,
wait to collect until late winter. Store the wood in a plastic bag. Enclose a moist cloth, but
leave no free water in the bag. Store the wood in a refrigerator between 1.7°C and 4°C.
• Make sure that fruits or plant materials capable of generating ethylene gas (plant hormone
that induces ripening/senescence) are stored in a different cooler than the scions or
rootstocks.
• If refrigeration is unavailable, store the wood outdoors in moist sand in a well-drained,
protected location where the soil will not freeze. For spring budding, use the same scion
wood as you would for grafting. You can store scion wood (budsticks) in a refrigerator,
but only for a few days. It is best to use the budsticks immediately after collection.
• For either budding or grafting, select only plants of known quality or performance free of
insects, disease, and winter damage

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Methods of grafting and budding
• Splice (also called whip) grafting
is the simplest way to join a stock and scion. It is best suited for
herbaceous plants in a protected location
• Whip-and-tongue grafting is one of the most common and useful grafts for woody plants.
It is used for topworking and producing new plants, primarily deciduous trees. It works best with a stock
and scion of equal diameter of less than 2 cm .
• Cleft grafting
is used for topworking and should be completed before active growth of
the stock.
• Bark grafting
can also be used for topworking with larger stocks than for cleft grafting, but the scions should be similar
in size
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Side grafting
can be used for topworking or producing new plants. Several forms of side grafting are used. The other forms are
mostly for producing new evergreen plants by grafting on small seedling stocks
Bridge grafting
Bridge grafting is used to repair damaged bark areas at the base of a tree. Bark damage caused by cold, rodents, or
implements may kill a tree if severe enough. If the trunk is not completely girdled, the tree can usually be saved by bridge
grafting
Inarching
is a repair technique that may be used instead of bridge grafting. Suckers growing at convenient locations next to the
injured area, seedlings, or rooted cuttings planted next to the trunk are bark grafted into the trunk above the injured area
Approach grafting
is used to support a weak crotch in a tree or to graft together two plants while both remain on
their own roots. For giving support, two adjacent branches are joined together. For two plants on
their own roots, the main stems are joined together. This method has the advantage of an
uninterrupted flow of water to the scion from its own roots until the union is formed. Likewise, the
rootstock receives manufactured food from its top during the graft union formation. Stock and scion
or adjacent branches within a tree may be joined by the spliced method which uses single, long,
smooth cuts on adjacent surfaces.

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Topworking
can be done by a variety of grafting or budding techniques.

T or shield budding
is used to topwork or produce new plants. It is the most common
budding method for producing fruit and ornamental plants
T methods of budding:
A) cut
B) removal of the bud,
C) preparation of the rootstock by giving an incision in the form
of an inverted T to facilitate lifting of the bark
D) insertion of the bud into the incision made on the rootstock
E) T method of budding,
F) parafilm holding the bud in place. Insets: Insertion of buds
into the cuts made on the scion.

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Chip budding

does not require bark that slips on either a stock or budstick. It can be
done in the spring just as growth begins or in the summer at the same time as
other budding techniques.
Chip budding method.
A) Removal of the bud along with the bark
B) Preparation of the rootstock by giving an incision to remove the bud from
the scion. C) The bud is held in place with parafilm. Chip budding ensures better
cambial contact and thus high union success rates.

Patch budding and related forms

Patch budding method:
A)Cut
B) removal of the bud
C) placement of the detached bud on the rootstock
D) parafilm holding the bud in place

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Example- Steps for T-shaped budding in Roses:

Preparing the stock:

A sturdy stem of the rootstock of about the thickness of an ordinary pencil is
selected for budding. All other branches are removed along with thorns.
Selection of the right bud from Scion:
These buds known as ‘eyes’ should not be confused with flower buds; these
are small vegetative swellings at the axis of leaves from which new shoots can
develop. A plump bud with little wood & whole leaf stalk (2 cm) is taken out from
the stem in the shape of ‘shield’ with the help of a sharp budding knife.

Insertion of bud into the stock:

made in the bark of a rootstock & the bud is inserted into the incision with the
help of small stalk left on the shield. The bud should point upwards & no part of
‘shield’ should protrude outside. The bud is then tied around firmly with grafting
tape, keeping the ‘eye’ uncovered. The union will take place within 3-4 weeks.
The budded plant will be ready for transplantation in few months.
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• Fun fact:
A single Rose plant having flowers of more than one colour can be developed by grafting many
buds from many different rose varieties on one rootstock.

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Сonclusion

• In conclusion, grafting still remains to be one of the better, if not the

only commercially feasible, methods for propagation of pecan. While
V-grafting does seem to offer some potential as a method of
propagation, more studies should be conducted to observe the long-
term effects and outcome of the method.

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Bibliography
• https://www.growables.org/information/documents/PlantPropagationGraftingBu
ddin.pdf
• https://www.ugaoo.com/knowledge-center/how-to-grow-rose-plant-from-stem/
• https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/75906033.pdf

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