Machines

SPME
SPME – 2
1. Operation of Double needle lock stitch machine with
split bar. Usage analysis of DNLS in apparel industry by
looking at various garments.
2. Definition of seam pucker. Causes of seam puckering.
Feed pucker and how to eliminate feed pucker, Tension
pucker and its elimination, Displacement pucker and
solutions for displacement pucker, Moisture pucker.
DNLS Machines
• Types of DNLS Machines
• Application of DNLS Machines
• Split Bar – Threading and Use
• DNLS machines work on the same principle as SNLS
machines with the difference in the number of needles
and bobbin case.
• A total of 4 number of threads are used in DNLS
machines – 2 for needles and 2 for Bobbin.
• The machine can be converted to SNLS machine and
comes in different feed mechanisms.
Parts of DNLS Machine
• Threading-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FjnWUMGeUk
• Split bar - https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=4PS2Q_0z7rM
• Campus videos
Important parameters to consider while purchasing
DNLS machine
PARAMETERS TO UNDERSTAND SEAM AND
STITCHES
• Seam :- The seam is defined as a juncture at which two or
more textile fabrics, are joined by stitching, usually near
the edge.
• Stitch density (SPI)- Stitch density is the number of
stitches per unit length (stitch per inch-SPI) in one row of
stitching in the seam.
• Stitch width- Stitch width is the distance between the lines
of the outer most parts of the stitches. The stitch width
determines how far the stitch will go from side to side.
• Seam allowance- Seam allowance is the area between
the edge and the stitching line on two or more pieces of
material being stitched together. Seam allowances can
range from 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) wide to as much as several
inches.
• Seam extensibility-Extensibility of the seamed fabric was
defined as the difference in stitch length between the
original stitch length S and the extended stitch length Slim.
The elasticity of a sewn seam depends on fabric type and
strength, stitch and seam type, stitch density (SPI) and
sewing thread elasticity .
Factors affecting seam performance
• Sewing needle penetration – Needle point, Fabric –
Weave and yarn density.
SEAM DEFECTS
• Defects in seams-
http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/sea
m_quality_defects.pdf
STITCHING PROCESS
• The seam components are acted upon by the feed
mechanism – Feed dog, presser foot, the machine needle
and thread tensioning devices.
• Forces in seam formation – those in plane of the fabric
( along the direction of fabric – responsible for extension )
and those at right angle to the fabric ( presser foot ,
needle, feed dog- responsible for compression).
• During the stitching process, the fabric and thread extend
because of forces in the plane of the fabric. The fabric and
the thread thus have a tendency to come back to its
original length after stitching.
FACTORS CONTRIBUTING TO PUCKERING
• Effect of machine feed:-
Feed components :-
Presser foot which has a spring loaded and is capable of limited
vertical rising and lowering movement. This is responsible for
compressing the fabric during stitching.
Reciprocating feed dogs – intermittently presses two or more plies
of fabrics against the lower surface of the presser foot, lifting the
presset foot against its spring . The feed dog then moves all the
fabric plies forward , ideally carrying all the fabric plies and
uniformly sliding them under the presser foot.
However the feed dog is serrated and the under presser from the
presser foot positively engages with only lower ply. The top ply is in
direct contact with the presser foot and is subjected to downward
force which impedes the forward movement.
• Fabric Dimensional Instability in Use:
• Dimensional stability of the fabric – Relaxation shrinkage
and Hygral expansion may affect the seam appearance
after stitching.
• When the moisture content of the components in the
seam differ prior or during assembly , dimensional
changes may result in puckering.
• Sewing threads Extension and Recovery:- The threads in
seam are subjected to tension during stitch formation. The
needle thread pulls the bobbin/looper thread to a position
midway in the fabric assembly.
• The sewing thread is extended by the action of the
tensioning device and becomes a part of the stitch while
still in tension and tends to recover to its original length
after stitching.
• Fabric Structure and Compression:
• The fabrics along the line of stitch may be stretched
during stitch formation.
TYPES OF PUCKERING
• Feed Puckering :-
• Feed puckering is also known as ‘inter-ply shift’ and can occur when
there is high friction between the presser foot of the sewing machine
and the top of the fabric when sewing two plies of fabrics together.
When there is high friction, the fabric, either its top or bottom layers,
tend to move at different rates and this can cause puckering.
• Differential fabric stretch can also cause puckering on one side of
the seam and this usually happens when piecing together two
different types of fabric.
• Slowing down the sewing process and reducing the pressure
help reduce the occurrence of seam puckering. Alternatively,
most garment manufactures adopt machine feed systems such as
differential bottom feed and adjustable top feed systems that can
be adjusted for smooth sewing for any type of material or seam
• Tension puckering:
• Thread tension during sewing also determines the stitch
quality where it involves the balance of force on the
threads that form the stitch and also the degree of
compression on the fabric created by the threads as a
stitch is formed. If there is too much tension given to the
thread, there will not be enough thread to form the stitch
and the thread will be overstretched. During the relaxation
process after sewing, the thread will return to its original
length and compress the fabric and this can produce
seam puckering known as tension puckering.
• Tension puckering is likely to happen with synthetic
sewing thread which has a greater elongation during the
winding process and then, when the sewing thread is in a
relaxed state, it tends to pull the fabric and can cause
puckering.
• Tension puckering can be avoided by using consistent
quality sewing thread and also a properly adjusted sewing
machine.
• Displacement puckering:-
• This type of seam puckering is cause by the structural jamming of
the yarns in the fabric. Structural jamming is due to the
compactness of the yarn in the fabric and the yarn position in the
fabric being disrupted during the sewing process due to the
insertion of needle and thread. The fabric has to make space for
the thread by an extension process along the line of the seam but
at the other side of the seam, no extension is made and this
makes the fabric buckled and produces seam puckering.
• Displacement puckering is more likely to occur when sewing with
higher count fabrics, finer fabrics and also thicker sewing thread.
• a suitable selection of spcm and sewing thread must be
considered according to the fabric types and end product in order
to reduce the occurrence of puckering.
ELIMINATION OF PUCKERING
• http://
www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Minimizing
-Seam-Puckering-2-5-10.pdf
• https://
coats.com/en/information-hub/Eliminating-Seam-Puckerin
g
• http://apparelresources.com/wp-
content/uploads/woocommerce_uploads/2014/10/SW-
DECEMBER-10.pdf

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