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ASIAN CUISINE

Cultural foods from the


Philippines
Culinary Adaptation
Foreign influences made a deep impact on native island culture.
Chinese traders had been coming to the islands since the lIth century and many stayed on.
Their foodways also stayed. Perhaps they cooked the noodles of home; certainly they used
local condiments; surely they taught their Filipino wives their dishes, and thus FilipinoChinese
food came to be.

The names identify them:

• pansit (Hokkien for something quickly cooked) are noodles;


• Iumpia are vegetables rolled in edible
wrappers;
• siopao are steamed, filled buns;
• siomai are dumplings
Filipinized by the ingredients and by local tastes.
• pansit Malabon has oysters and sqUid, since Malabon is a fishing
center;
• and pansit Marilao is sprinkled with rice crisps, because the town is
within the Luzon rice bowl.

Chinese food became a staple of the pansiterias, with the food given
Spanish names for the ease of the clientele: thus comida China
(Chinese food) includes arroz caldo (rice and chicken gruel); and
morisqueta tostada (fried rice).
SPANISH COLONIZERS
In the 16th century, the Spanish colonizers imported Christianity, and the
culture related to colonization lasted three centuries. The food influences
the Spaniards brought with them were from both Spain and Mexico, as it
was through the vice-royalty of Mexico that the Philippines were governed.
This meant the production of food for an elite, non-food-producing class,
and a food for which many ingredients were not locally available.
FOOD INFLUENCED BY SPANIARDS
• olive oil, paprika, saffron, ham, cheese, cured sausages-and new names. Paella, the dish
cooked in the fields by Spanish workers
• Relleno, the process of stuffing festive capons and turkeys for Christmas, was applied to
chickens, and even to bangus, the silvery milkfish
• Christmas, a new feast for Filipinos that coincided with the rice harvest, came to feature
not only the myriad native rice cakes, but also ensaymadas (brioche-like cakes buttered,
sugared and cheese~sprinkled) to dip in hot thick chocolate, and the apples, oranges,
chestnuts, and walnuts of European Christmases
• Even the Mexican corn tamal turned Filipino, becoming rice-based tamales wrapped in
banana leaves
• After the Revolution of 1889, the Battle of Manila Bay, and the pact of exchange between
the US and Spain, the Philippines became an American colony. The Americans introduced
to Philippine cuisine the ways of convenience: pressure-cooking, freezing, pre-cooking;
sandwiches, and salads; hamburgers, fried chicken, and steaks.
Tamales
National and Regional Dishes
Several dishes comprise the "national" cuisine: bistek (beef and onion rings
braised in soy sauce); lumpia (spring rolls); and the popular adobo--chicken and
pork stewed in vinegar and soy sauce, garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaf.

Every province boasts of having the best version of adobo. Manila's is soupy
with soy sauce and garlic. Cavite cooks mash pork liver into the sauce. Batangas
adds the orange hue of annatto; Laguna likes hers yellowish and piquant with
turmeric. Zamboanga's adobo is thick with coconut cream.
Three other items represent mainstream tastes and might be called "national" dishes.

Sinigang, the lightly boiled, slightly sour soup, has a broth as tart as the heart (or taste buds)
desires.

There is the stew known as dinuguan-basically pig blood and innards simmered with vinegar and
hot peppers. Most regions do the dinuguan stew in their own versions.

Finally there's lechon, the whole roast pig or piglet, star of many fiesta occasions. Lechon is
slowly roasted over live coals, basted regularly-and made crisp and luscious. The tasty sauce is
concocted from the pig's liver, simmered with vinegar, sugar, and herbs.

Know that Philippines has 7,107 islands in which dishes vary. The scattered island geography
sustains multiple cultures-and many distinctly different cuisines, all alive and well. Regionalism
can be sensed-rather, tasted-on Philippine islanders' taste buds.
Northwest coast of Luzon
The northwest coast of Luzon is the Ilocos region, a strip of land between the
mountains and the sea, where five provinces share the same language, food,
and tough challenges of nature. Ilocanos eat meat sparingly, preferring
vegetables and rice as the bulk of their diet.

Pinakbet is a popular vegetable medley identified with the Ilocanos, a


combination of tomatoes, eggplant, and bitter melon, lima beans, okra, and
squash-all bound together with bagoong, a salty sauce made from
fermented fish or shrimp.
Pinakbet
Central Luzon
Two cuisines in the rice-and-sugar lands of Central LuzonPampanga and Bulacan-claim
superiority over the other. Many exotic dishes are attributed to land-locked Pampanga:
fried catfish with buro, a fermented rice sauce; fermented crabs; frogs or millfish in a
sour soup; fried mole crickets, and cured pork slices called tosino. From here comes
bringhe (a fiesta rice made with coconut milk)ensaymada, a buttery bun; leche fIan, a
creme brulee made with water buffalo milk; and a great array of sticky rice cakes.
Bulakenos specialize in meat dishes: a chicken "sits" in a claypot lined with salt and is
slowly roasted. Typically, Bulakan cooks claim the best relleno and galantina (stuffed
chicken rolls); estofado (pork leg) and asado (pot roast); as well as kare-kare (oxtail
stewed in peanut sauce).
Bringhe
which is said to have originated from
the northern province of Pampanga,
is the Filipino’s indigenization of the
Spanish paella.

Bringhe is the perfect one-pot meal


for all your special celebrations! Made
with glutinous rice, chicken, chorizo
de bilbao, vegetables, and coconut
milk, this tasty, this Filipino-style
Paella is sure to be a crowd favorite.
Southeastern Luzon
The Bicol Region-six provinces along the southeastern peninsula of Luzon-is
synonymous with gata or coconut cream. Chili and gata come together deliciously,
especially in the famous Bicol dish called pinangat. Little bundles of gabi (taro) leaves
are filled with shredded taro leaves and bits of tasty meat; the bundles are simmered
in gata, and laced with a fistful of chilies.

Bicol Express,
known natively in Bikol as sinilihan, is a popular Filipino dish which was popularized in
the district of Malate, Manila but made in traditional Bicolano style. It is a stew made
from long chilies, coconut milk, shrimp paste or stockfish, onion, pork, and garlic.
Visayas
The Visayas are the big island group in the center of the archipelago, where
several cuisines reflect the influence of the Chinese community and the
taste of the seas. Iloilo City is famous for its delicious noodle soups. Pancit
molo is a hearty soup designed around shrimp-and-chicken-and-pork
dumplings.
From Iloilo also, the delectable lumpiang ubod: heart of palm in soft
crepes. Bacolod and Iloilo share credit for binakol, a chicken soup based not
on chicken stock but on buko, the sweet water of the young coconut.
Pancit Molo
The filling of the wontons are
composed of ground pork and shrimp.
I also added onion, sesame oil, and
some seasonings.

The soup is composed of chicken


broth and water along with rotisserie
chicken.
Mindanao
In Mindanao, the frontier land of the far south, everyday cuisine is more
Malay in influence and distinctly exotic in taste. Spices are used liberally:
turmeric, ginger, garlic, chilies, and roasted coconut. Seafood eaten raw,
broiled, or fried; or put in soups with lemongrass, ginger, and green papayas;
or coconut cream and turmeric.
Chicken is served in curry; or combined with taro in a stinging soup. Glutinous
rice is often mixed with shrimp, spices, or coconut milk; or cooked with
turmeric and pimento.
Finally is Zamboanga, a Catholic town with a distinct Spanish accent. Cocido,
the traditional Sunday platter, is prepared like its Iberian prototype, with
sausage, salted pork, pork ribs, sweet potatoes, corn, and cooking bananas.
Kinilaw
is a dish that is basically raw relying on the acid
in the dressing to slightly 'cook' the fish or
seafood. It is usually a pulutan or appetizer taken
with drinks but can also be served as a main dish.
The Filipino Table
Whether at home or out in a restaurant, Filipinos love to eat communal-
style, all together in an informal social gathering called a salu-salo.
The components of a typical Filipino meal- fresh fish or other seafood;
chicken, pork or beef; vegetables; hearty soups mixed with coconut and
noodles-are arrayed around a large container of steamed white rice.
Eating is done frequently. Filipinos eat rice from morning until night,
supported by rice cakes, nuts, and sugary snacks in between.
What's most unique to the Filipino eating tradition is the sawsawan-the
mixing and matching of cooked foods with salty, sour or savory dipping
sauces, called sawsawan.
These myriad table sauces in tiny plates turn the
bland white rice and the simply roasted seafood
and meats into a meal that's sour, salty, sweet
salty or even bitter sour-as one chooses.

The most common condiments are: patis (fish


sauce), toyo (dark soy sauce ), suka (native
vinegar), and bagoong (fermented shrimp paste).
These conspire tastily with garlic, ginger, red
chilies, peppercorns, onions, tomatoes, wansoy
(cilantro), belimbi (a sour fruit,kamias), and
kalamansi (the small. sweet native lime).

Spanish chorizo sausage, and tamarind pulp (and


sometimes leaves if available). Lumpia (spring
roll) wrappers are a must too and are readily
avialable.
Dream your dreams with your eyes closed but
live your dreams with your eyes open.

Fight a good fight with faith. God is with you


always.

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