For TLE 4th Quarter Dressmaking Lesson 4.1

TLE 7/8 4 QUARTER
TH
Dressmaking
LESSON 4.1
SEWING MACHINE TROUBLES
and STANDARDS FOR SEWING
MACHINE OPERATIONS
CLASSIFICATIONS OF SEWING
MACHINE TROUBLES
If the sewing machine in your laboratory are kept in
good condition and are carefully adjusted and
properly threaded , not too many things can go
wrong. But there are certain difficulties that occur
during an operation so often , so you should know
these minor and common problems their causes
and remedies.
There are two classifications of sewing machine
troubles, namely :
1. Minor sewing machine trouble
This refers to problems that arise involving incorrectly attached
accessories or supplies , unadjusted tensions , or that requires a little
dusting or oiling.
2. Major sewing machine trouble

This involves replacing or removing damage spare parts that
made the sewing machine not totally functioning.
COMMON SEWING MACHINE TROUBLES
1. Machine runs noisily
2. Machine rotates heavily
3. Needle thread breaks
4. Stitches skip
5. Stitches loop
6. Upper thread breaks
7. Lower or under thread breaks
8. Seams Pucker
9. Fabric does not move
10. Fabric jams in machine
STANDARDS FOR SEWING MACHINE
OPERATIONS
Observe while using / running sewing machine and list the things that
you have noticed. By following correct procedures you will make your
work easier, more interesting and challenging.
Here are some pointers that you have to follow in the manipulation of
your sewing machine:
1. Start with the right tools and supplies.
Have your needle, thread, screw driver,
pins and scissors ready for use. With
tools at hand, you can start working
continuously on your machine.
2. Always maintain good working posture.

Sit on your back slightly leaning forward.
It can prevent body pains after working
on your machine.
3. Thread the sewing machine correctly.
You can follow the guide book if you have.
This will save your time to get a correct
threading.
4. Be sure that the needle is properly set

according to the directions for specific
models. A properly attached needle will
make your work without any trouble.
5. Set the stitch regulator according to
project specifications and test
the stitches for possible adjustments.
6. Check tension dials and adjust

according to project requirement of the
stitches. A correct adjustment on the
tension dials will make perfectly sewn
garment.
7. Turn power off (for
motorized/electric machines )
when the sewing machine is not in
use. This will save electricity and avoid
possible minor accidents.
8. Keep sewing tools. Dust the sewing

machine then put a little amount of
machine oil in slots. This will
make the sewing machine available
for the next user
CHARACTERISTICS OF GOOD STITCHES
1. The length of stitch is proportioned to the texture of the
fabric.
2. The stitches are the same in length.
3. The stitches appear the same on both right and wrong
sides of the fabric.
4. The stitching follows the intended line smoothly and
accurately.
5. There are no skipped or broken gaps in stitching.
6. When retraced, it appears as one line of stitching.
7. The stitching has no tangles.
HOW TO MAKE ADJUSTMENT ON THE MACHINE
There are two tension adjustments on the sewing machine the

upper and the lower. The upper tension controls the thread from the
needle, while the lower tension controls the thread from the bobbin
case. These tensions must be adjusted to suit various fabrics. If the
tensions on both threads are properly adjusted, the threads will
lock at the center of the material and form a correct stitch.
Sewing machine needles become dull through hard
usage and also through ordinary wear; sometimes, they
become bent by improper use. The condition of the needle
should be checked when sewing difficulties occur. A
defective needle should be replaced by a new needle of
proper size. A dull needle will show a flat shiny spot at the
very tip when rotated between the fingers. The straight
of a needle can be tested by rolling the larger end on a flat
surface; bent needles will wobble and straight needles
will roll true.
A. HOW TO ADJUST TENSION ON THE NEEDLE
THREAD
The stitch tension control determines the amount of tension on
the thread as they pass through the machine.
1. Correcting a Loose Top Stitch
When the needle thread tension is too tight, the thread will lie straight
along the upper surface.
•  Lower the presser foot
•  Turn the small thumb nut at the front of the tension discs to the
left ( counter clockwise ) to decrease the tension.
2. Correcting a Loose Bottom Stitch
When the needle tension is too loose , the thread will lie
along the underside of the material.
•  Lower the presser foot
•  Check to make sure that the thread is between the
tension discs.
•  Turn the small thumb nut at the front of the tension
disc (clockwise ) to increase the tension.
•  Check the stitch on pieces of scrap material.
B. HOW TO ADJUST TENSION ON BOBBIN
THREAD
1. Checking Bobbin Case

 Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.
 Clean the inside of the bobbin case.
Remove all particles of lint and dust with
a small point stick.
Note : If the tension spring is bent away from
thebobbin case , or if the ends of the spring
near the delivery eye are damaged, they
should be replaced. Consult your teacher if
defective parts are discovered.
2. Adjusting Tension Spring on Bobbin Case
The tension on the bobbin thread is controlled

by adjusting the tension spring on the outside of
the bobbin case. It is seldom necessary to change
this adjustment once the tension has been properly
set . The operator will usually be able to correct the stitch
by varying the tension on the needle thread
a. Correcting a loose bobbin thread
If the tension on the bobbin thread is too loose,
the needle thread will lie straight along the upper
surface of the material. Tighten the tension. Turn
the regulating screw in the tension spring to the
right. Test the tension. Thread the bobbin case. Hold
the end of the thread and allow the case to hang
freely. Check stitch on pieces of scrap material
b. Correcting a Tight Bobbin Thread
If the tension on the bobbin thread
will lie straight along the underside of
the material. Loosen the tension. Turn
the regulating screw in the tension
spring slightly to the left.
 Thread the bobbin case and test the
tension. Check stitches on pieces of
scrap material.
HOW TO REGULATE THE LENGTH OF THE STITCH
The length of the stitch is regulated by
the stitch regulator on the front side of the
head. Move the stitch regulator downward to
lengthen stitch. Move the stitch regulator
upward to shorten stitch.
 Check the length of stitch on pieces of scrap
material.
Note: For normal stitching, set the regulator
at 10 to 12 stitches per inch, or
at the number 3 for metric scale machines.
HOW TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE ON THE MATERIAL
The pressure on the material is
regulated by adjusting screw on the
top of the machine.
 Turn the adjusting screw to the
right to increase the pressure.
 Turn the adjusting screw to the
left to decrease the pressure.
 Check the pressure by stitching
on pieces of scrap material of the
same weight .

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TLE 7/8 4 QUARTER

2. Major sewing machine trouble

2. Always maintain good working posture.

4. Be sure that the needle is properly set

6. Check tension dials and adjust

8. Keep sewing tools. Dust the sewing

There are two tension adjustments on the sewing machine the

1. Checking Bobbin Case

The tension on the bobbin thread is controlled

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