Republic of the Philippines

DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION
Regional Office No. VIII
DIVISION OF NORTHERN SAMAR
SAN JOSE TECHNICAL HIGH SCHOOL
San Jose, Northern Samar

SECOND QUARTER
DRESSMAKING 8

LESSON 1: OPERATING A SEWING MACHINE AND ASSESSING ITS PERFORMANCE

Words to study

Balance wheel – the wheel at the right of the arm that sets the mechanism in motion.
Blunt – refers to an unsharp or dull needlepoint that is replaceable.
Feed dog – the toothed part mounted on the throat plate that helps move the fabric against the
presser foot.
Jam – to cause a machine to stuck fast so that it cannot work.
Manipulation – the act of managing or operating manually or mechanically a given tool or equipment
Posture – the correct working body position for a given task.
Stitch regulator – the part of a sewing machine that controls the stroke of the feed dog and
regulates the length of stitches.
Treadle – this is where the feet rest to drive the band wheel through the pitman rod.

Standards for Sewing Machine Operations

Let us now list the things that you have to observe while using your
sewing machines. By following correct procedure and understanding the
reasons behind will make your work easier, more interesting and challenging.
Here are some pointers that you have to follow in the manipulation of your
sewing machine.

1. Start with the right tools and supplies. Have your needle, thread
screwdriver ready for use. With your tools at hand, you can start working
continuously on your machine
2. Always maintain good working posture. Sit on your back slightly leaning
forward. It can prevent body pains after working on your machine.
3. Learn to thread the sewing machine using the guidebook. This will save
your time to get a correct threading. Refer to a manual or someone to
check if you have threaded it properly.
4. Be sure that the needle is properly set according to the directions for the
specific models. A properly attached needle will make you work without
any trouble.
5. Set the stitch regulator according to project specifications and test the
stitches for possible adjustments.
6. Check tension dials and adjust according to project requirement of the
stitches . A correct adjustment on the tension dials will make perfectly
sewn garment.
7. Turn power off (for electric machines) when the sewing machine is not in
use. This will save electricity and avoid possible minor accidents.
8. Keep sewing tools and dust the sewing machine before putting a little
amount of machine oil in slots. This will make the sewing machine
available for the next user.
Classifications of Sewing Machine Troubles

If the sewing machine in your laboratory are kept in good condition and are
carefully adjusted properly threaded, not too many things can go wrong. But
there are certain difficulties that occur during an operation so often, so you
should know these minor and common problems and their causes. There are
two classifications of sewing machine troubles, namely:

1. Minor sewing machine trouble

This refers to problems that arise involving incorrectly attached
accessories or supplies, unadjusted tensions, or that requires a little
dusting or oiling.

2. Major sewing machine trouble

This involves replacing or removing damage spare parts that made the
sewing machine not totally functioning.

Common Sewing Machine Troubles and Their Causes

SKIPPING STITCHES PUCKERING STITCHES

NEEDLE BREAKING/ LOOSE LOWER TENSION

BENDING

LOOSE UPPER TENSION

 Below is a checklist of a sewing machine troubles and their causes. Find
out why these troubles occur during sewing machine operation.

PROBLEMS CHECK

Thread Breaks 1. Size of needle – may be too big or too small

2. Type of thread – may be too thin, knotted, or uneven
3. Type of needle – may be wrong for the fabric
4. Machine threading – may be incorrect
5. Tension – may be too tight

Skipped Stitches
1. Type of needle – may be wrong for the fabric
2. Stitch length – may be too long
3. Condition of the needle – may be dull or bent
4. Machine threading - may be incorrect
5. Needle position – may be wrong
Needle breaks
1. Tension – may be too tight
2. Needle position – may be wrong
3. Presser foot – may not be tight
4. Fabric – may have too many layers or too thick

Seams Pucker 1. Tension – may be too tight

2. Needle – may be too big or dull
3. Thread - may be too coarse
4. Stitch length – may be too long

Fabric jams in 1. Thread ends – may need to be held at start of

machine stitching
2. Needle – may be too big
3. Throat plate – may need round hole plate

Machine jams
1. Bobbin threading – may be incorrect.
2. Thread – may be knotted or too coarse
3. Bobbin case – may catch thread
4. Needle position – may be wrong
5. Machine threading – may be incorrect

No Fabric 1. Setting of stitch regulator - may be set to 0

Movement 2. Feed dog – may be lowered
LET US REMEMBER

The instruction manual or book of a sewing machine is very important. It is your

source of information regarding its uses, care, maintenance and troubleshooting. Problems arise
because of lack of familiarity with the machine and failure to use it as directed. It is therefore
important to refer to the suggested procedure before attempting to use it. This will save a lot of
trouble as you progress in your project.

-oOo-
LESSON 2

CLEANING AND LUBRICATING SEWING MACHINE

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

The lesson deals with sewing machine maintenance in accordance with the
occupational health and safety in the application of correct procedure based
on the workplace requirements.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. clean and lubricate sewing machines ;

2. apply the occupational health and safety practices in sewing machine
maintenance ; and
3. sustain interest in maintaining sewing machines.

LET US STUDY

Words to study

• Lubricant applied between moving par– a material capable of reducing

friction when ts.

• Lubricate – the act of applying a lubricating agent between moving parts to

reduce friction and preventing the form of rust.

• Gummy accumulated dust on sewing machine part.– a thick of sticky

quality such as oiled

• Bent – a change of shape or angle caused by pulling or pricking to a harder

part such as a machine needle driven out of throat plate slot.

• Absorbent – a material property that sucks-up or takesin the manner of

sponge.  Damp cloth – a cloth applied with moisture on water.

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR SEWING MACHINE

 To get the best result from any machine, give it the necessary proper
care. This consists mainly of cleaning and lubricating. If it is not kept clean
and is lubricated, it may run heavily. Here is how you can achieve a longer use
of sewing machine.
GENERAL CLEANING

As you clean the machine, it is best to clean one area at a time. Remove
only the parts that are involved and be sure to note where each part is from, its
correct position.

 Prepare the needed tools and supplies in cleaning the sewing machine.

Cleaning tools and materials includes: Quality oil, lint brush dry paint brush screw
drivers, pen and record notebook, cotton buds (optional)

 Remove the needle if there is any. This will prevent the cleaner from pricking
fingers during the cleaning process.

Face plate (presser bar, needle bar, thread take

up lever, lifter).

 Unscrew face plate and keep it in the drawer

while cleaning.
 Brush dust away then put a little amount of oil while
rotating the balance wheel so inner parts can be
accessed.
 Put back the face plate in place.
Upper Tension (disc spring and dial)

 Remove outer bolt, tension dial, discs and

disc spring.
 Lay each part in your front table
following its disassembling for easier
assembling.
 Brush dust and wipe with absorbent cloth
with oil.
 Assemble by following the laid parts in your
table.

Lower Mechanism ( rotary oscillating hook )

 Remove bobbin case.

 Fasten sides of oscillating hook.

 Remove dust with lint brush.

 Put a little amount of machine oil on moving

parts.

 Return spare parts in place.

Other Minor Parts

 Remove entangled treads between head balance wheel.

 Brush accumulated dust in the treadle joints connecting the band wheel.
 Clean gummy dust on the band wheel.
 After all parts were dusted, lubricate all joints and oil slots with good quality
oil.
 Wipe off all surplus oil then put a piece of absorbent cloth under the presser
foot for dripping oil.

When the machine has been thoroughly cleaned and oiled, run it slowly
for several minutes to allow the oil to work on its moving parts. Place a scrap of
fabric under the presser foot and lower the needle to absorb excess oil.

Occupational Health and Safety Procedure in Sewing Machine

Maintenance

Cleaning and lubricating a sewing machine is quite a messy task. Therefore,

personal care should be observed during this activity. The following health and
safety precautions should be practiced at the shop or at home.

1. Wear personal protective equipment. This prevents your clothing from being
tarnished by oil and dirt. Be sure to wear gloves to avoid accumulation of oil
and dirt in your nails and palms. (Wearing of protective eye glasses is optional).
2. Remove the upper belt or turn power off (for powered sewing machine) before
oiling the sewing machine.
3. When a chemical or small spare parts get into your eyes, call the attention of
your teacher at once.
4. Do not remove any safety device from any machine.
5. Be sure that all screws are well-tightened before starting the machine.
6. Make sure that no screws or tools are left on the floor to avoid slipping.
7. Wipe dry spilled oils on the floor to avoid accidents.
8. Assign colored tags for a newly maintained sewing machine. This will make the
user be aware of its present condition.
9. Provide a small bin for your garbage when performing this job. 10.Have a
separate cabinet or storage for tools and supplies for sewing machine
maintenance.
11. Always refer to the sewing machine service manual for accurate application
of procedure.

OILING POINTS
Upper mechanism oiling points pointed with arrows. The lower mechanism of the sewing
machine that need to be oiled to maintain moving parts in good condition(below).

Back Part of the head Face plate oiling points

 Treadle oiling points

LET US REMEMBER

A sewing machine like any piece of equipment, needs some care and
cleaning. Kee
p it dusted and lubricated at least once a week or more often
if the machine is in constant use.

LESSON 3
 LESSON 3: CHECKING SEWING MACHINE OPERATION AND ASSESSING ITS
PERFORMANCE

LET U
S STUDY

Words to study

 Adjust – changepresent setting as in adjusting tensions

.
 Entangle - forming knots like thread entangled in the
bobbin case.
 Lift– moving upward as in a presser foot lifter .
 Replace– putting something new in e place
th of an old
or damaged part.
 Rewind– winding again or repeat winding
.
 Pucker – wrinkling of fabric caused by very tight stitches.

Assessing the Sewing Machine Performance

1. To begin sewing. Pull bobbin thread up by holding the spool thread and lay
threads back of presser foot.
2. Recognize and regulate tension. Learning to recognize standard tension
and to analyze poor tension promptly is necessary for efficient sewing. You
can learn to identify good and poor tension by either its appearance or its
performance. Compare the illustrations below.
 Perfect or balance tension
 Stitches are slightly oval.
 Stitches are pinched in at the ends.
 Stitches are evenly shaped or regular.
 Stitches look alike on either side of the work.
 Upper tension is too tight.
 Spool thread lies flat or floats on the upper side.
 Work draws or puckers.
 More of the bobbin threads show between the stitches on the upper side
than in a perfect tension.
 Upper tension is too loose
 Stitches on the upper side look fat, bulgy, and loose.
 Stitches sometimes looped, staggered in a sort of wavy line.
 None of the bobbin thread shows on the surface.
Note : Observe the sound of your sewing machine as you do the activity. If it
makes clucking noise, try to find out the exact parts where it needs
additional oiling or repair.

LET US REMEMBER

Study the instruction book for your machine and make

adjustments as directed. Keep adjusting and testing until a sample of
balance, perfect stitching is obtained.