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2004_0605TN

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The document summarizes a pipe replacement job done by ARS Rescue Rooter in Memphis, TN. A sewer connection under a driveway needed work. The pipe connection was roughly 8 feet deep between a cottage and main house. The replacement pipe was 45 feet long, 4 inches in diameter, and made of SDR17 plastic. Key steps of the job included cutting the old pipe, feeding the new pipe during the pull, and fusing sections for a smooth connection.

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TRIC Training Log: 06-05-04 Client: ARS Rescue Rooter, Memphis, TN Job: Residence, under driveway Pull: 45’ / 4” / SDR17
For Sale: A grand old home in the historic district of Memphis. Sewer needs work.
The connection: Under the driveway, joining the cottage adjacent to the garage (behind trees) with the main house.
Saving the surface: The connection at the house is roughly 8’ deep; all excavation is done in the planted areas.
Garden view. Note excavator to the right.
Entry point: PVC irrigation pipe can be cut. Unused steel pipe protruding above surface at edge of hole will also be removed.
Facing.
Keep blades moving: Watch for full ribbons of trim from both faces.
Clean and check: Remove shaved material from fusing area.
Before heating: Double check mating surfaces, and remove any debris from edges with a clean cloth.
Heating the pipe: Make firm, even contact with heating iron, then use neutral pressure.
The melt: This varies according to pipe size and rating; for SDR 17 in smaller sizes (3”, 4”, 6”) look for a melt of 1/8” or slightly less.
Entry: Breaking out the old pipe. Note minimal excavation.
Entry: Cutting away unused protruding pipe in “drag path” (left).
Feeding the cable: In many cases, it is not necessary to use the duct rod to pull cable through the line. Here the pull is downhill, relatively short, and steep.
Positioning the new pipe: Making the approach as direct as possible.
Attaching hydraulic hoses.
Pulling end: Cribbing the wall to provide even support for the resistance plate.
Ready for tension: Keep pressure gauge visible.
Feeding the pipe: It’s important to give the bursting head a good start.
Well underway: After a good entry, pipe often needs little attention.
End of the pull: Removing the cotter pin from the clevis bolt.
“ Bumping”: Fuse enough pipe to have this option when the pull is done.
Photo Op: Hands-on Management!
Ready to connect: When possible, give plenty of cutoff length behind the head. (Note brass water supply line, which was easily avoided with the TRIC system.)

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2004_0605TN

  • 1. TRIC Training Log: 06-05-04 Client: ARS Rescue Rooter, Memphis, TN Job: Residence, under driveway Pull: 45’ / 4” / SDR17
  • 2. For Sale: A grand old home in the historic district of Memphis. Sewer needs work.
  • 3. The connection: Under the driveway, joining the cottage adjacent to the garage (behind trees) with the main house.
  • 4. Saving the surface: The connection at the house is roughly 8’ deep; all excavation is done in the planted areas.
  • 5. Garden view. Note excavator to the right.
  • 6. Entry point: PVC irrigation pipe can be cut. Unused steel pipe protruding above surface at edge of hole will also be removed.
  • 8. Keep blades moving: Watch for full ribbons of trim from both faces.
  • 9. Clean and check: Remove shaved material from fusing area.
  • 10. Before heating: Double check mating surfaces, and remove any debris from edges with a clean cloth.
  • 11. Heating the pipe: Make firm, even contact with heating iron, then use neutral pressure.
  • 12. The melt: This varies according to pipe size and rating; for SDR 17 in smaller sizes (3”, 4”, 6”) look for a melt of 1/8” or slightly less.
  • 13. Entry: Breaking out the old pipe. Note minimal excavation.
  • 14. Entry: Cutting away unused protruding pipe in “drag path” (left).
  • 15. Feeding the cable: In many cases, it is not necessary to use the duct rod to pull cable through the line. Here the pull is downhill, relatively short, and steep.
  • 16. Positioning the new pipe: Making the approach as direct as possible.
  • 18. Pulling end: Cribbing the wall to provide even support for the resistance plate.
  • 19. Ready for tension: Keep pressure gauge visible.
  • 20. Feeding the pipe: It’s important to give the bursting head a good start.
  • 21. Well underway: After a good entry, pipe often needs little attention.
  • 22. End of the pull: Removing the cotter pin from the clevis bolt.
  • 23. “ Bumping”: Fuse enough pipe to have this option when the pull is done.
  • 24. Photo Op: Hands-on Management!
  • 25. Ready to connect: When possible, give plenty of cutoff length behind the head. (Note brass water supply line, which was easily avoided with the TRIC system.)