3. Waves
Waves are one of the most powerful processes shaping our
coast
The power of waves is influenced by the strength of wind and
by the fetch, the length of water the wave travels over before
hitting land
The fetch on the west coast of Ireland is obviously a lot bigger
than the fetch on the east coast
Bigger fetch = more powerful waves = more eroded coastline
One glance at the Irish coast tells us which coast suffers more
from erosion
http://www.marine.ie/home/publicationsdata/data/buoys/
5. Swash and Backwash – p 158
Swash – the rush of water up a beach after a wave breaks
(powerful)
Backwash – the returning water to the sea (less powerful)
Constructive Waves – Break gently, far from shore and swash
pushes material into shore, very weak backwash
Destructive Waves – Break very close to shore, very powerful
backwash
6. Processes of Erosion
Hydraulic action – power of water (waves)
Abrasion – Rocks/sand thrown against the coast
Compressed Air – trapped in small crevices in the rock
by waves, this causes mini “explosions” which
eventually shatter the rock
Attrition – Rocks wearing off each other
Solution – Salts in seawater dissolving rock (esp
sedimentary rock)
Wave refraction – waves bending on contact with the
coast, concentrating it’s effects in certain areas
7. Processes of Deposition &
transport
This requires three basic conditions
Gently sloping beaches to reduce wave energy
Shelter from strong winds/currents (e.g. in a Bay)
Constructive waves
For Transport, the main process is Longshore Drift, also
known as Littoral drift
9. Landforms of Erosion
Cliffs and Wave Cut Platforms (Cliffs of Moher)
Bays and Headlands (Dublin Bay, Bray Head)
Sea Caves(Cliffs of Moher)
Sea Arches (Old Head of Kinsale)
Sea Stacks (Dun Briste, Co. Mayo)
Sea Stumps (Cliffs of Moher)
21. Coastal Deposition
Whatever gets eroded from one area on the coast eventually
gets deposited in another area – nature always balances the
books
The rate of erosion also affects the rate of deposition – an area
with mostly hard rock (e.g. Granite) will erode slowly and thus
have little material for deposition
Coastal deposition features (e.g. beaches) often have
important economic benefits such as tourism
22. Beaches
Beaches are not only formed from sand – mud, shingle and
stones can also form beaches – however these beaches are
unattractive for tourism
For a beach to form you need
A sheltered area to trap sediment
Longshore drift to transport material to the beach
Constructive waves to deposit beach material between the high
and low tide marks