Coloured cosmetics &nail cosmetics

Avinash V. More
Department of cosmetics techmology
Anuradha college of Pharmacy, Chikhli

 1.Introduction to nail
preparations.
 2. Nail lacquers:
 Definition
 Types
 Ideal characteristics
 Formulation
 Manufacture
 Packing
 Filling
 Labelling
 Evaluation
 3. Enamel removers:
 Definition
 Ideal characteristics
 Types and formulation
 Manufacture
 Evaluation
 4. Pharmaceutical nail
lacquer.
 5. Recent advances.
 6.Conclusion.
 7.Bibliography

 Nails are transparent protective coverings on finger tips
and toes of feet.
 The care of nails is referred to as Manicuring .
 Manicure preparations include:
 Nail lacquer/enamel/paint/varnish
 Enamel remover
 Powder polish
 Nail cream
 Nail bleach
 Cuticle remover
 Cuticle softener

 Definition :
 “Nail lacquers are viscous preparations intended
to decorate nails for fingers and toes”.
 Ideal Characteristics:
 It should have proper viscosity wetting and flow properties.
 It should have uniform colour.
 It should have good gloss and good adhesive properties.
 It should have sufficient flexibility so that it does not crack or become
brittle.
 It should have sufficient hard surface which is resistant to impact
and scratch.
 It should have reasonable drying time (1-2 minutes) without
developing bloom.
 It should be able to maintain the above mentioned properties for a
reasonable time (about 1 week ).

 Pearled nail lacquers:
 Made up of lacquer
base, colourants, pearl
essence.
 Creamy nail lacquers:
 Made up of a lacquer
base, organic and
inorganic pigments.

Nail lacquer system
Lacquer base colouring agent Other formulating agent
 Film former Dyes Suspending agent
 Resin Lakes Opacifying agent
 Solvent Pigments UV absorbers
 Plasticizer Peral essence Perfume

 Impart hardness, toughness, resistance to abrasion ,
 viscosity to some extent.
 Nitrocellulose-widely used , based on viscosity ,
 SR nitrocellulose :10.7 to 11.2% N2
 RR nitrocellulose :11.2 to 12.8% N2
 Other examples include cellulose acetate , cellulose acetate butylate, ethyl
cellulose, vinyl polymers and various polymers of methacrylate.

 It impart adhesion and improve gloss , help in
 dispersing insoluble pigments and lakes.
 Natural resins :Shellac, benzoin, gum dammar, sandarac,
ester gums.
 Synthetic resins: Sulphonamide-formaldehyde resins (poly
aryl sulphonamides).
 Commercial resins :
 SantoliteMHP : Claimed to Increase hardness of
nitrocellulose and impart gloss to it.
 SantoliteMS 80% : Claimed to increase moisture resistance.

 Solvents are volatile organic liquids that combine all the ingredients of lacquer
formulation and make a homogeneous viscous preparation.
 Impart brushability and for regulating its drying time , viscosity of the preparation.
 High BP-gives a brighter film .
 Low BP-Lowers viscosity and covering power.
 Solvents are in 3 inter-related categories:
 1. Active solvents:True solvents
E.g., esters, ketones and glycol ethers for Nitrocellulose.
 2.Couplers: Not solvents but in conjugation increase the strength of other solvents.
 3.Diluents: Diluents are non-solvents for nitrocellulose .These are used to stabilize
viscosity, to carry resins in solution and to reduce the effect of subsequent applications
on the coat of enamel already applied, to lower the overall cost of the product.
 Eg., Aromatic and aliphatic hydrocarbons and alcohols likeToulene, benzene, xylene,
hexane, heptanes, naphthas, light petroleum ether.

 They impart flexibility and adhesiveness to the film , and also effect
viscosity and the volatility or rate of drying .
 Two types of plasticizers:
 1) Solvent plasticizers:Act as solvents and are of high molecular
weight.
Eg., Butyl acetyl ricenoleate.
2)Non-Solvents plasticizers: Act as a softener.
Eg.,Castoroil.

 Impart acceptable shade to the lacquer base .
 The colouring agents must comply with the terms of Drug and Cosmetic act
, should disperse well , be resistant to light , acids and alkali found in
detergents , be non-staining and produce a good gloss.
 Dyes : Soluble dyes alone normally cannot impart sufficient depth of
colour,abandoned due to staining the surface & surroundings of the nail.
Eg., Eosin, erythrosine, carmosine, rhodamine
 Lakes:Insolublelakes are incorporated to produce suitable shades.
 Eg., Colourlakes mentioned in Schedule Q to Drug and Cosmetics Act rules.

 Pigments: Insoluble in lacquers.
 Eg.,Titanium dioxide,ironoxide,Ultramarineblue,Chrome oxide
green.
 Pearl essence: Pearl essence is a suspension of crystalline guanine
( 2-amino-6-hydroxy purine) in nitrocellulose and solvents.
 Bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with titanium dioxide, pure
aluminiumand silver powder are also used.

 Suspending agents:Suspending properties have been achieved by
developing thixotropic system using pre-heated colloidal clays.
Eg., Benzyl dimethylhydrogenated tallow
 Ammonium montmorillonite(Bentone27)
 Dimethyl dioctadecyl ammonium bentonite(Bentone34)
 Opacifying agents:Theseare whitening agents which help to develop
shades which will reflect the same colour on the nails as they are in
the bottle. Eg.,Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide.
 UV absorbers:To prevent deterioration of ingredients due to UV light .
Eg., Benzophenone sand its derivatives.
 Perfume: used mainly to counteract the unpleasant odour of the
solvents .
Eg. Synthetic perfumes are preferred.

 The manufacture of nail enamels involves
following distinct processes:
 Grinding of pigments
 Manufacture of Nail lacquers
 Mixing of pigments with lacquer
 Safety aspects

 Add 75% of the solvent and whole of the diluent in a mixer. Mix well with
agitation
 Nitrocellulose is then added with stirrer on
 Solvent is added
 Plasticizer is added
 Resin is added
 Mixing is continued for several hours
 until solution of all ingredients is complete
 Clear lacquer is formed
 Passed through filter press or centrifuged
▪ Pigmented chips or concentrated tintersare added and mixing is continued
 Nail lacquer product is formed

Ingredients %
 Nitrocellulose 14.90
 Butyl acetate 34.04
 Toulene 30.00
 Toulene sulphonamide formaldehyde resin 7.10
 Dibutyl phthalate 4.80
 Camphor 2.40
 Stearyl konium hectorite 1.20
 Benzophenone -1 0.20
 D & C Red No. 7 , Calcium lake 0.08
 D & C , No. Red . No.34 , Calcium Lake 0.05
 FD&C,No.5,Aluminium lake 0.08
 Bismuth oxychloride (25%) 5.00
 Iron oxides 0.15

Coloured cosmetics &nail cosmetics

 Since nail lacquers are highly inflammable, filling,
capping and packing must be carried out under fire-
proof and explosion-proof conditions.
 Proper care and precautions should be followed, for
example, good ventilation, proper electrical wiring
and prohibition of cigarette smoking in the working
area.

 Glass bottles with a brush applicator is the
most conventional container which is used for
the packaging of nail lacquers.
 The capacity varies from 8ml to 18ml .
 The applicator consists of an air-tight
aluminium canister with an acrylic fiber tip or
nib which applies polish directly to nails.

 OPI Nail Colour
 Essie Nail Polish
 Zoya Nail Polish

 Before nail lacquer is packed , the following testsshould be carried
out as a measure of quality control :
 Colour matching
 Drying rate
 Non-volatile content
 Smoothness
 Gloss
 Hardness
 Application properties
 Abrasion resistance
 Adhesion
 Water resistance
 Viscosity
 Stability

 Definition:
 Nail removers / nail cleansers are defined as the mixture of
solvents containing small amounts of fat intended to remove the
nail enamel.
 Ideal Characteristics:
 An ideal lacquer remover should have the following characteristics
:
 It should not be too volatile to evaporate during application.
 It should not be non-irritating to surrounding skin.
 It should not leave the nails fatty or sticky.
 It should not have strong degreasing effect to leave nails brittle.
 It should not have unpleasant and obstrusive odour.

 Type I contains solvent blends and a small percentage of oily materials.
 Formula :
 Ingredients %
 Castor oil 2.5
 Diethyleneglycol mono ethyl ether 14.5
 Acetone 83.0

Formula :
 Ingredients %
 Water 10.0
 Ethyl acetate 90.0
 Method of preparation :
 A simple remover prepared by mixing water
and ethyl acetate.

Formula :
Ingredients %
 Bees wax 3.0
 Micro-crystalline wax 1.0
 Acetylated monoglycerides 10.0
 Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether 52.0
 Ethyl acetate 15.0
 Stearic acid 15.0
 Triethanolamine 4.0

 Method of preparation :
 Melt all ingredients except triethanolamine ,
add triethanolamine to the mixture with
stirring and allow to cool.

Formula :
Ingredients %
 Hydroxypropyl cellulose 1.0
 Butyrolacetone 75.0
 PPG-12-PEG-50 lanolin 1.0
 Pigment (in Butyrolacetone) 0.1
 Sodium hydroxide (5% aqueous) qs
 Water To make 100.0

 Formula :
 Ingredients %
 Malleated Soyabean oil 10.0
 Acetone 90.0

 Subjects were given a supply of the test nail polish remover,
nail enamel and cotton pads, along with instructions for use
and a diary.
 Subjects were instructed to remove their nail enamel using the
test product provided, 3 times per week for 4 weeks for a total
of 12 uses.
 Subjects were instructed to use their usual brand of hand care
products and not to introduce the use of any new hand care or
nail products for the duration of the study.
 Subjects returned after 4 weeks of use for a final evaluation of
the cuticles for signs of irritation.The last use of the test
product was within 24 hours of the final product.

 Fungal nail infection is an infection of the nails by a
fungus and is known as Onychomycosis.
 The body normally hosts a variety of bacteria and fungi.
 Some of these are useful to the body.Others may
multiply quickly and form infections.
 Fungi can live on the dead tissues of the hair, nails, and
outer skin layers.
 Ciclopiroxtopical solution, 8%, contains a synthetic
antifungal agent, ciclopirox.
 It is intended for topical use on fingernails and toenails
and immediately adjacent skin.

 Rehydrating Nail Hardener:(Miracle Nail)For weak, thin,
peeling, and splitting nails.
 Free Nail Strengthener Contains calcium and coffee
extract to help strengthen and protect nautral nails
from oxidants; used for weak, thin, splitting or peeling
nails, this product isToluene, Formaldehyde, and
Dibutyl Phthalate free.
 Nail Rebuilder(Anti-Aging Nail Rebuilder)For dry,
cracked, yellowing and splitting nails
 Almond Cuticle Oil with Ginseng Extract Moisturizes
and softens cuticles while nourishing and protecting
them.

 Mood changing nail lacquer:
 This type of nail lacquer changes its shade
based on the mood of the woman.
 When her mood is normal it remains in light
shade.
 When she feels anxious the shade darkens.

 Cosmetic preparations for nails are very
essential for the proper maintenance of the
nails.
 It is vital to maintain well hydrated and
moisturised nails which is done by manicures.
 Nails even serve as defense to the fingers and
toes from any mechanical injury hence nail
care by using manicures is utmost important.

Coloured cosmetics &nail cosmetics

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