This document discusses whether cutlery is required when serving Indian food, particularly with silver service. It notes that Indian cuisine is traditionally eaten with the hands and fingers allow one to fully experience the food through touch and sensation. While some see eating with hands as uncivilized, the document argues that hands are God-given cutlery that allow one to truly taste Indian dishes like soft breads. It concludes that for the best experience, Indian food should be eaten with clean hands, not cutlery, whether in India or abroad.
1. “Whether Crockery Cutlery is required for Indian Food served with Silver Service”
ndian restaurants today get their revenue from the basic food coupled with the
service and ambiance. These values came into being, chronologically as they are
mentioned. It is obvious that people, traditionally ate out, only on compulsion, later
started getting fussy about the way their food was served to them, still recently got
into the appreciation of ambiance around their food and service. There can be loads
spoken about food and ambiance, but an abstract service, takes a lot of help from the
infrastructure of crockery, cutlery, glassware and linen often nicknamed as “CCGL” in
hotel jargon.
I
Our British rulers used to pass a joke that “Indians are so rich, they throw away their
plates after every meal”, when back home Europeans were known to be very possessive
about their crystal and fine
chinaware. What was
actually thrown out in
those days has today come
back in specialty food
outlets serving food the
traditional way on banana
leaves. The Crockery
graduated from a banana
leaf to copper and silver
plate, to a steel plate, to EPNS as shown below at Rajdhani, to stoneware, to melamine, to
bone china and fine crystal. It is a known fact that the plate gives out it’s metal properties
into the food and this could be favouring the food or playing against it, as in un-tinned
copper vessel poisoning. Shown here is the sample of the way we serve Indian food in
Rajdhani and Aamantran outlets.
A stalwart from the hotel industry said, eating food is one of those rare rituals that use up
all the five senses of our species. We see, smell and hear food before it comes to actual
eating, but one important thing we do before even eating is touching food, which is only
possible if our "God gifted natural cutlery" in terms of our fingers are used to eat food.
The Crockery, Glassware and Linen do come in that order of importance in visual appeal
and undivided attention, but food has to be felt if it is to be relished in it's pure form. More
so with the variety of Snacks, Sweets, and Breads and Main Courses, Indian Cookery has
to offer. In our restaurant - Revival, due to the courses starting from starters, to soup,
main courses and rice to salads and desserts, different sets of cutlery are used. Obviously
one cannot have soup without a soupspoon, or the desserts without a dessertspoon.
Wherever possible, I would personally like to request the guests to have food with their
hands and enjoy every bit of the meal experience.
It depends a lot upon the profile of our restaurant guests also, whether they could abolish
the use of cutlery. I have observed that the bottom most strata of our society fabric cannot
afford to use cutlery of any sorts. They are not our clienteles, but the strata above them
dare not eat with their hands, lest according to them they would be termed as uncivilized,
2. but we seldom have such guests also. It is the elite of the society who can venture into this
experience provided they are not on a business meal. That leaves a fair amount of footfalls
for us to keep trying on this total meal experience. After all what are finger bowls served
at the end of an Indian meal?
This is not so much of a problem with my thali outlet – Rajdhani, because it is only a
destitute spoon that comes with the Thali setup for sipping hot kadhi or daal. Due to the
demonstration effect of guests eating with their fingers it is easily replicated. Moreover
Thali is the best example to set forth for using one’s own hands compared to any cutlery.
There are some interesting observations made by me at people eating with their hands
depending upon the region they hail from. I observe a North Indian guest ripping apart a
feeble phulka with both his hands, like dressing a chicken without a knife. A West Indian
guest manipulates his thumb and first two fingers to grip the bread, tear it into morsel size
and dip it in the vegetable so artistically that too without the use of the other hand at all. A
South Indian in turn makes exact dumplings out of the rice combine in the Thali and toss
them each in his mouth as an ape chomps peanuts.
The suppleness imbibed into the food by the Chef can get lost in the mastication process,
with other foods, but imagine breaking up of a hot, steaming, soft, tender 'phulka' (Indian
puffed Chappati Bread) and dipping it in hot bhajji (vegetable), kadhi or daal and relishing
it. The ripple’s this process sends across the fingertips to the digestive system goes a long
way in digesting food. Didn't our grannies tell us this while feeding us as kids? Can an
indiscrete piece of cutlery provide this sensation to food?
I feel that in India we should eat Indian food with bare hands. Our Indian food tastes best
when eaten with hands.... God gave us senses to feel things otherwise he would have
bestowed us with forks and knives and spoons in place of our fingers. Sure, we cannot
sterilize our fingers the way we treat cutlery in the dish washing machine, but nice clean
hands coupled with the sensuous pleasure of food! You may decide your priorities.
Indian food should be eaten without a pair of cutlery in India, point taken, but what about
Indian food eaten outside India. Well, we should teach the world over how to eat without
cutlery. In the restaurant we are planning at Singapore, we are circumventing the problem
about our elite guests spoiling their cuffs while dipping their “God-gifted cutlery” into
Indian curries, by providing a designer cuff link.
Driving the point home, I believe that Indian food in India or abroad should be eaten with
clean hands and not with cutlery. Crockery usually imparts its properties into the food and
for that reason eating in metal plates as averse to bone ash crafted bone china in my
opinion is a better solution.
Kamlesh Barot