This document provides an overview of the textile manufacturing process from spinning to processing at a textile company. It includes descriptions of the machinery and processes in various departments like spinning, knitting, dyeing, finishing and quality control. It also lists common fabric types, finishes, and faults observed during production. Key departments and their functions are outlined along with process flows, material types and testing procedures.
5. Machinery Setup
Department Machine Type Manufacturer No. of machines
Mixing
Auto Plucker 3
Step Cleaner 1
Blow Room Two lines 2
Card Crossrole 24
Drawing
Breaker Toyoda 5
Inter Toyoda/China 4
Finisher Rieter 5
Fancy Top 1
Lap Former Rieter 1
Comber Rieter 6
Simplex FL-16 Toyoda 6/120
Ring RY-4 Toyoda 30/480
Auto cone 6/60
6. Mixing Department
Get mixing recipe from R&D Department
Allocation of material as per given recipe
Placement of Material in the form of sandwich on the floor
Manual mixing on floor
Feeding to Auto plucker to get homogeneous mixing
Passage of material from step cleaner to remove impurities
Placement of material lot wise
Sampling to get approval from R&D Department
If approved ready for production
If rejected then remixing of material to get required results
8. Blow Room
Bale breaker by Trutzchler
Axi flow by Trutzchler
RN Beater by Trutzchler
Multi mixer by Trutzchler
RV Beater by Trutzchler
Scutcher by Toyoda/China
9. Carding
Lap Feeding
Fibers opening
Removal of trash
Removal of lint
Fibers straightening & alignment
End product Sliver
10. Drawing
Feeding of 8 slivers to increase mixing
Sliver Drafting
Alignment & straightening of fibers
Reduce shade variation
End product Sliver
11. Combing
LAP Feeding
Removal of noils
Straightening & alignment of fibers
Removal of trash
End product sliver
Suitable for fine counts
12. Simplex
Sliver feeding
Straightening & alignment
Draft application to increase length
Twisting to give strength
End product roving
13. Ring
Roving feeding
Draft to get required yarn count
Twisting to get required strength
End product yarn
14. Yarn Testing Department
IGP posting of yarn in system
Yarn testing i.e. CV%, Count & strength
10 Kg Trial fabric on knitting machine,
Physical inspection of ecru fabric for yarn quality
Trial fabric dyeing & inspection to check yarn faults after dyeing
If results found ok, yarn will be online for production
If yarn is rejected, informed to procurement department
Same procedure follows for in-house yarn
15. Yarn Testing Process Flow
Yarn Received
for testing
Yarn Testing
• Count
• Strength
• Uster Testing
• Thick, Thin, Neps,
U%, CV 1M, CV3M,
CV10M, IPI
• Hairiness
• TPI
• Moisture
Yarn Test
Evaluation
Team Reject The
Yarn
Yarn Test
Decision
Reject
Fabric Testing
Sample Knitting
Sample Inspection
Sample Dying
Fabric Inspection
Report
Result Evaluation
• Dead Cotton
• Bareness
• Unevenness
• Thick, thin yarn
• Slub
• Contamination
• Fabric Blending Ratio
• Color Fastness to
washing/Crocking
• Shade Checking
• Color Brightness(For White)
Team reject the
yarn
Yarn Returned to
Party
Fabric Test
Decisions
Yarn Online for Bulk Production
Reject
OK
19. Ecru Yarn
(Un Dyed Yarn)
Carded Yarn
Combed Yarn
Combed compact Yarn
Slub Yarn
Siro Yarn
Inject Slub
I. Base Cotton+ polyester Injection
II. Base Polyester + Cotton Injection
III. Mixed Blend Base & Injection
20. Mélange yarn
Mixture of Dyed & Un-dyed
Cotton Mélange
CVC Mélange
PC Mélange
Cotton mélange with colored Injection
Cotton mélange with different colors injection
Fancy Top (Mix mélange)
21. Flow Chart Of Quality Systems In Yarn Testing
Material Requisition
Random Sampling
Dying Lab Test
Finishing
Inspection
Complete Yarn Testing
Knitting
Dying/Bleaching
Requisition generated by Testing department
Random sample selection from yarn Lot
Count, Strength, u%, Thick & thin places, Neps, IPI
& TPI testing
4~5 Kg fabric knitting from sample yarn for physical
inspection
It is done to check yarn faults, penetration & contamination
issues.
Required finish applies to check further yarn specs
Dead Fibers, Contamination, Slub, Shade variation, Color
brightness, Un-evenness
Color Fastness, Blending Ratio
22. Order Handling Flow Chart
Marketing
New Development
Innovation
Bulk Production
Sampling
Recipe Calculation
Approval
MRP
Repeat Order
Bulk Production
Approval
Sampling
Internal R & D
23. Observations
We have not seen any preventive maintenance schedules & record
Lot of chances of mixing mélange traces with ecru material where
both materials are side by side. Observations have been made
mixing of traces of dyed fibers with ecru materials. Even during
spinning mélange contamination entangles with ecru yarn.
House keeping need to improved
31. Knitted Fabric
Warp Knit Weft Knit
Flat Knit Circular Knit
Terry
Rib 1/1 Rib 2/1 Rib 2/2 Single Knit
Honey Comb
Double Locaste
Single Locaste
3 Thread
Waffle Flat back Rib Mesh
Rib Interlock Structured
2/2 Rib
2/1 Rib
1/1 Rib
Herring Bone Thermal
Double Knit
PQ Single Jersey
2 Thread
32. Knitting Process Flow
Marketing
MRP
Knitting CRP
Spinning Dyeing
Coordination
Prod./Maint.
WO generation
QC/QA
Yarn Store
•Yarn Requisition
from Production.
•Yarn Issuance to
production.
•Posting in system
•Preparation of
machine as per
given specs by
MRP.
•Production of req.
fabric as per given
target line.
•First piece
checking before
bulk production.
•In-line inspection
to ensure A-grade
production.
•Final inspection
for grading before
dispatch.
33. Knitting Faults
Knit Hole
Press Off
Needle Line
Single Kunda
Double Kunda
Yarn Fly
Missing Yarn
Feeder Tight
Lycra Tuck
Lycra Short
Fluff Knit
Sinker Line
Oil spot
Oil Line
Lycra Tight
Miss Pattern
Machine tension
Stitch length variation
Pulling Thread
Polyester out
Drop stitch
Knots
Winder streaks
Needle shade
35. Q.C Inspection Flow
FAIL
Inspection sheet forwarded to IT
Roll Stacking in Racks
Inspection on 4 Point System
Alternate Roll selection
Bar Coding
Shade Checking
Roll Scanning
QC Feed back provided to
Production
Rework Issue
Inspection after Re-work
B-Grade
System Feeding
Verification
Pass
System Feeding
Rejected
Verification
System Feeding
Clearance Performa
Summery for store rcving
Issuance to waste store
36. Knitting Findings
More than 50% knitting capacity found idle, reason may be
I. Wrong capacity calculation by CRP,
II. We have not seen IE involvement in Knitting,
III. Poor Production Planning By MRP,
IV. Marketing Department is not fulfilling capacity.
R&D Department need re-structuring by allocating proper
resources, issues observed are as under,
I. Delay in sampling,
II. Machine Efficiency/Production loss,
37. Knitting Findings
We have not seen proper implementation of in-line inspections,
4 Point system is not implemented in true sense,
Fault identification tag is not implemented,
Pre-production sample approval exists but at the same time
production is in process. Bulk production should start after sample
approval.
40. Store/Preparatory Deptt.
Fabric receives from knitting to ecru fabric store in processing,
MRP sends requirement to CRP,
CRP creates work order which circulates in Bleaching, Dyeing &
fabric store,
Lap dip approval from Lab,
Process route from R & D,
Store prepares ecru fabric lot size as per advice of CRP,
Fabric issues to preparatory department for unwinding & roll to roll
attachment,
Fabric issues to bleaching & dyeing as per loading plan by CRP,
41. Lot making Criteria
Machine Capacity,
Fabric GSM,
Fabric weight in Kgs,
Yarn Source,
Shade in which fabric to be dyed,
42. Division-1
Yarn Dyed fabric
Ecru Fabric
Store
Fleece
Lot making
Washing
Bleaching
Dyeing
Slitting/Drying
Raising
Finishing
Inspection
Packing
Lycra Fab.
Store
Lot making
Slitting/Laping
Heat set
Washing
Bleaching
Dyeing
Drying
Finishing
Inspection
Packing
Other Fab.
Store
Lot making
Washing
Bleaching
Dyeing
Slitting
Drying
Finishing
Inspection
Packing
Store
Lot making
Washing
Slitting
Finishing
Inspection
Packing
43. Division -2
Tubular
Dyeing
Compaction
Dyeing
Normal Finish
Bleaching
Squeezing
Bleaching
Slitting
Washing
Dyeing
Washing
Bleaching
For fleece
Washing
For special
finish
For normal
finish
Open Width
Washing
Washing
For normal
Finish
Drying
Slitting
Slitting
Packing
Inspection
Drying
Normal Finish
Stretching
Dyeing
Bleaching
For special
finish
Packing
Inspection
Compaction
Bleaching
Stretching
Drying
Special Finish
Drying
Compaction
Inspection
Packing
Dyeing
Special Finish Finishing
Drying
Compaction
Inspection
Packing
Raising
Compaction
Inspection
Packing
44. Type of Finishes
a
Finishes
Normal Finish
Compaction
Raising
Peaching
Chemical Finish
Mechanical Finish
Silicon Finish
Raisin Finish
Water
Repellant
Anti Microbial Wicking Finish
•Acid: 0.11
•Polyavin:
1.75%
•RH-685B:
1.75%
•ECO: 6.3
g/litre
•Magnesium
Chloride: 1.2
g/litre
•Dimensional
stability & color
bonding
•Acid: 0.11 %
•Polyavin
PEN:.823 %
•MA6ASIL MT:
1%
•RH-6858-2:
1.65%
•Used for
softness & good
hand feel
•Citric Acid:
0.44%
•Bio GuardX-19:
8%
•Rucoguard:
2.5%
•Used to remove
water
penetration
•Citric
Acid:.44%
•Polyavin PEN:
.825%
•Rucofin SIQ:
.4%
•Rucobal AGP:
.1%
Used to protect
fabric from
becteria
45. Color Lab process flow
Customer colors request for Lab Dip as per given protocols,
I. Customer's swatch,
II. Pantone number,
III. Electronic file Qtx,
Recipe calculation with the help of Spectro Photo meter,
Recipe feeding to color dispenser & liquor preparation,
Sample dyeing in IR dyeing machine,
Dyes fixation,
Soaping & washing,
Shade matching in dark room with customer swatch,
Preparation of lab dips in 4~6 closest options,
Approval from customer & assigning code,
46. Color Lab parameters
For Cotton
Reactive dyes,
Temperature range 60ċ
Time required 60 Min.
For Polyester
Disperse Dyes,
Temperature Range 135 ċ
Time Required 45 Min
PH 4.5~5.5
For Light colors Soda Ash,
For Dark colors Caustic Soda,
47. Testing Lab Process flow
Sample collection from Production,
Sample Testing as per customer's protocols,
If testing is OK then go head for bulk production,
If rejected, immediately inform to production for corrective action,
48. Testing Lab Tests range
Color fastness to water,
Color fastness to perspiration,
Color fastness to light,
Pilling test,
PH test,
Crocking test (Dry & Wet),
Absorbency test,
Button Pulling test,
Bursting strength test,
Tensile & seam strength test,
Elastic Recovery test,
Wicking test,
49. Yarn Dyeing Department
Fiber dyeing Yarn dyeing
Sewing thread dyeing
Nylon dyeing
Cotton Polyester Viscose
Polyester
Cotton
Polyester
PC
Bleaching
Temp. 135 Ċ
Time. 30 min
Detergent, Optical
brightener
Dyeing
Disperse dyes,
Acetic Acid,
Temp. 135 Ċ
Time. 30 min
First Polyester
dyeing then
cotton dyeing
Bleaching
Temp. 100Ċ
Time. 30 min.
H2O2, NaOH,
Stabilizer
Dyeing
Temp. 60 Ċ
Time. 30~60 min
Reactive dyes
Salt, Soda
Bleaching
Temp. 100Ċ
Time. 30 min.
H2O2, NaOH,
Stabilizer
Dyeing
Temp. 60 Ċ
Time. 30~60 min
Reactive dyes
Salt, Soda
Bleaching
Temp. 100Ċ
Time. 30 min.
H2O2, NaOH,
Stabilizer
Dyeing
Temp. 60 Ċ
Time. 30~60 min
Reactive dyes
Salt, Soda
Bleaching
Temp. 135 Ċ
Time. 30 min
Detergent, Optical
brightener
Dyeing
Disperse dyes,
Acetic Acid,
Temp. 135 Ċ
Time. 30 min
50. Fiber Dyeing Process
Material requisition to store,
Material receiving from store,
Bale opening,
Cake making,
Feeding to dyeing machine,
Bleaching
Dyeing,
Hydro extraction,
Fiber opening & drying,
Bale packing,
Dispatch,
51. Yarn /Sewing thread process
Material requisition to store,
Material receiving,
Soft winding,
Loading in machine,
Hot wash,
Bleaching/ semi bleaching,
Dyeing,
Hydro extraction,
Drying,
Hard winding,
Packing.
Dispatch,
52. Nylon yarn dyeing process
Store requisition,
Receiving from store,
Muff making,
Loading in machine,
Semi bleach,
Disperse dyeing,
Hydro extraction,
Cone making,
Dispatch,
56. Garment Dyeing
Pigment Dyeing
White Seam Dyeing Dischargeable Dyeing
Reactive Dyeing
Reactive white seam
Dyeing
Cold pigment Dyeing
Double Dyeing
Pure pigment Dyeing
Blended Dyeing
Sulphure Dyeing
Spec. Reactive
Dyeing
Direct Dyeing
57. Garment Washing
Vintage wash
Pigment stone
dyeing
Burn out
Slush dyeing
Spray category
Acid wash
Random socks
wash
Random rag
wash
Sand wash
Stone wash
Coating
application
Color addition
Color discharge
Bio polish
Carbon finish
Graphite finish
Soda wash
White pigment
bath wash
Enzyme wash
Rubbing enzyme
58. Laundry store Process flow
Receiving of retrieve copy of OGP from Apparel Div.,
Garments receiving against OGP in store,
Physical quantity verification against OGP,
IGP posting in system,
Lot making on below parameters,
I. Machine capacity,
II. Order size,
Bar code generation which contains information,
I. Material specs,
II. Process route,
III. Process time line,
IV. Process type,
59. 1
Issuance to Laundry for processing,
Receiving from Laundry after processing,
Quantity verification after QC go head,
Ready for dispatch,
OGP generation,
Dispatch to apparel Div.,
60. Current issues facing store
Actual quantity variation from Apparel Div.,
Wrong color/wrong PO,
Different colors mixing in same poly bag,
Lot mixing issues during laundry operations,
61. Laundry Commercial Activity
Vacant capacity estimation,
Market search for commercial orders,
Commercial rates negotiation with Parties,
Commercial Order taking,
PO feeding which contains information,
I. Commercial rates,
II. Process route,
III. Lead time
IV. Order quantity,
Production planning & execution,
Quality inspection & dispatch,
63. Zero rework Policy
Need more focus on preventive measures along with corrective
measures.
I. To reduce rework,
II. To improve efficiency,
III. To improve quality,
IV. To save money,
Continuous training & development of operators, Supervisors &
Managers.
Incentives for operators who produce good quality with out any
rework,
Link performance of Supervisors & managers with promotions &
reward system,
64. Team alignment with Company Vision
As per our observation, majority of Supervisors & Managers is
staggrent & playing in a self created circle.
Training & Development of Supervisors & Managers,
Performance reward system should be there,
One goal one team policy,
Continuous coaching for team alignment,
Floating a concept of MTM Family,
+Ve competition within departments for productivity & Quality,
65. Lean Manufacturing
To much travelling from spinning to Sewing which causes,
Heavy transportation charges,
Increases lead time,
Effects material quality,
Increases work force,
Increases lead time for issue handling,
69. Process Flow
Trial run plan from order management system
E-Pattern, PPC file, Approved sample garment & PPK from Merchandiser
Analysis of approved pattern, sample & provided data
Adjustment sewing margins in pattern & nesting verification
Pattern plotting & sample Cutting
Final go ahead for cutting via mail
Trial evaluation by apparel QC
Specs measurement after wash
Sewing/Pressing & measurement of garment before wash
Cut parts measurement & documentation
70. Cutting go ahead meeting
Participants include:
• Cutting Production & QC heads,
• GGT representative,
• Pilot run shop representative,
• Planning representative,
• IE representative,
• Process improvement representative,
• Embellishment representative,
Meeting Agenda:
• Sample garment study,
• Hard patterns, mini markers,
• Trial run instructions page & garment route,
• Laying, cutting method & bundling decision,
71. Snap back test
From first lot of bulk cutting random selection of cut part components
of garment & sending to trial run shop for Snap back test,
Measurement of cut parts in trial run shop,
Re-trial done,
After getting snap back results, co-relation with trial reports,
In case of any abnormality, discussion with production & QC heads.
Revision in patterns after mutual understanding,
72. Observation
PD & Trial run shop are not synchronized with each other
regarding,
I. Product making,
II. Seam allowances,
III. Shrinkage,
Manual pattern tracing & cutting in PD department, although
Accumark software & plotter available there which causes,
I. Wastage of time,
II. Accuracy issue,
Grading checked manually by master in trial run shop although
software is available there,
Seam allowance standards of different machines are not
available in PD & Trial run shop,
73. 1
No authentic method to add shrinkage in patterns in trial run shop &
PD,
No soft data back up procedures available in PD & trial run shop,
Rejected samples data is not available in trial run shop to calculate
rejection % age & root causes,
Risk assessment form available but not properly utilized,
No yield data available to compare consumptions on PD & bulk
stages,
Product & Data revision history is not properly maintained,
In cutting go ahead meeting no representative of PD,
75. Product
Development
Sampling
Technical
Services
Sample Dev. Wet Process Dev. Garment Package
Mnfg. Spec
Trim Card
Control Matrixes
Wash Recipe
Wet Process
Routing
Step Targets
Constructional
queries
Pattern Analysis
Garment Yields
Proposed Lay-out for Product Development
Design Cell
Develop MTM
Own Development
76. PROPOSED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT - ROLE
SAMPLING:
• To cater Reactive development being received from customer.
• To maintain product record of every customer in terms of digitized pattern, sample Evaluation / callout sheet,
Measurement record along with reference garment
• Assign product tracking identification in form of product ID label.
• To deliver sample to Merchant completed in all respects with above mentioned package and Sample delivery card.
TECHNICAL SERVICES:
• Working as a technical hub for every product with Merchandizing, Production planning, Production Floor.
• Direct liaison with customers technical teams for clarifying product related queries.
• Liaison with Production planning, QA and Production floors for technical backup of product.
DESIGN CELL:
• Design new products according to existing customers trends as well as by catering new trends in market season
wise.
• Develop mood boards by understanding in house bulk capabilities to present our products to customers.
• Execute these development through sampling and present to existing customers, new customers, Exhibitions, &
fairs.
78. MARKETING PD TECH SERVE
CUSTOMER
SEWING
FIN/PACK
CAD / CUT
QA
PRODUCT RELATED
COMMUNICATION &
TECHNICAL SERVICES
PPC
Proposed PD Tech. Service Process flow
79. MANUFACTURING SPECIFICATIONS
• MNFG. SPECS is one of principal document that should be generated to make
services to production teams. Manufacturing Specifications document, basically has
each answer of “how a product needs to make and execute”?.
• This document contains standardized formation (product to product as well as brand
to brand) and categorized in 4 sections i.e. Product Brief, Fabric & Wash Detail, Trim
detail and Thread detail.
• PD should get info about a product from marketing and Manufacturing Specification
should be generated/released by PD for conveying the methodology of product
making and execution to production teams i.e. CAD/GGT, PPC, SEWING, GWP,
FINISHING & PACKING, QUALITY.
80. TRIMS DIGITAL LIBRARY
• Trims Digital library is a data base about accessories information with their digitals.
This Library will contain the information like Customer, Accessory Item, Accessory
Code & Digital of each Item/accessory.
• Trim Library should be maintained purposely to have data base of each accessory as
digital record. When and where ever any accessory or it’s code misplaced, this data
base will help in finding the info of that item either via item’s code or item’s physical
sample.
• This Data Base should be maintained customer wise and PD will update by posting a
digital shot of trim along with info while making trim cards.
81. EMBELLISHMENT LOG
• Embellishment Log is a data base about coding system of embroidery artworks. This
code should be assigned to each embroidery design that has to run within MTM either
just for development purpose or bulk production.
• Embroidery Coding System reflects exactly that what customer/supplier defines a
code to their products/accessory for making easy access to their products.
Embellishment Log should be designed with the same purpose. Embellishment Log
will support in arranging the embroidery artworks as well as will define the criteria i.e.
development, approved, rejected, cancelled etc..
• PD will make the services by sharing Embroidery Code with production team for
proceeding bulk production with correct and approved design.
94. PP Meeting
Meeting may include the below points,
• Customer & garment style,
• Cut panels & specs required,
• Tolerance levels in specs measurements,
• Accessories required in PO,
• GGT marker instructions & requirements as per QC & GGT
consensus,
• Maximum & minimum lay length & height based on fabric type,
• Special laying instructions by QC, Cutting & Bundling,
• Analysis on the basis previously closed PO of same style &
suggestions to avoid mistakes of past history,
95. Pre-laying check points
• Approved mock check with shade bands, continuity & identification of
FID reports,
• Verification of fabric categories (Green, Yellow & Blue) & segregation
of rolls category wise,
• If blue category is more than 35% portion of the lot then separate job
card will be generated for separate induction & 100% CPI,
• Checking planned job card against given lot to verify lot color, fabric
construction & width,
• Marker go ahead after feeding data in system,
• Ensure fabric relaxation time minimum 24 hours before laying,
96. Fabric laying procedure & check points
• Analysis of marker from GGT department & checking points,
I. Pattern code verification,
II. Size direction,
III. Verification of complete components placed in marker,
• Fabric laying as per segregated category & to maintain data on laying
report,
• Lay length, height & splice checking as per agreed standards,
• Points to be checked during laying,
I. Roll to roll shade variation,
II. Lay tension,
III. Lay length,
IV. Alignment of fabric edges,
• Waste collection & adding in report,
97. Cake inspection
• Random cake inspection by QC (Top, Middle & Bottom) Shaping issues,
• Checking of notch marking, miss cut & get it right by the shaper,
• Mark hold if any cake is rejected,
• If cake is OK, move it to trolley,
• Re-inspection of reworked cake & marking it pass on inspection report,
98. Final inspection of bundles
• Bundling team put category wise bundling detail on report for procss card
generation,
• QC picks 20% random samples from given lot & Applies OQL 1.5
• QC checks following point during audit,
I. Garment specs& shapes,
II. Bundle size & no of pieces,
III. Shade variation in components of same garment,
IV. Trims shade & size checking,
• If results of given lot are according to OQL 105, then it will be considered
pass otherwise fail,
• Ok & rejected lots are mentioned on audit report,
• In case of embellishment, cut parts are checked 100%