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Styles of printing

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F
Fatema Akter

1. Textile printing involves applying colored patterns and designs to fabric using thickened print pastes containing dyes or pigments. 2. There are several styles of printing including direct, discharge, and resist printing. Direct printing applies color directly to fabric while discharge and resist involve removing or preventing color fixation in certain areas. 3. The printing process typically involves color paste preparation, printing the fabric, fixation with steam or heat, and after-treatment including washing. Alternative techniques to printing include embroidery, knitting with colored yarns, and applique.

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Styles of Printing Presented by Fatema Sharmin Department of Wet Processing Engineering Bangladesh University of Textiles
Printing • The word of “printing” has derived from a Latin word which means “pressing “. It implies a process that uses pressure. • Textile printing is one kind of localized dyeing where dyes or pigments & chemical applied by any method which can produce a particular effect of color on fabric according to design. • In a word, Applying colored patterns and designs to decorate a finished fabric is called 'Printing'. It’s a combination of art, engineering & dyeing.
Feature of Printing:  Printing is applied in form of design or pattern. Single or multi color can be applied.  A special type of viscous liquid is used to hold the dye/pigment & chemical which is called ‘Print paste’.  High viscosity of print paste helps dye to adhere to surface of fibre. But the fixation is done by applying steam which is called ‘curing’  For dyeing low viscous or aqueous medium is used but printing is done in wet viscous medium.  The Dyes used for printing mostly include vat, reactive, naphthol (azoic) and disperse dyes which have good fastness properties.  The pigments, which are not truly dyes, are also used extensively for printing. About 96% is done by pigment. These colors are fixed to the fiber through binder.
Alternative process of printing • There are some alternative processes for applying colorful design on fabric. But printing is the cheapest process that’s why it is widely used. The other processes are…….. • By dyed yarn in form of woven fabric. • Embroidery • Knitted with colored yarn. • Applique.
Embroidery Knitted with colored yarn. Applique.
A Typical Printing Process Involves the Following Steps Fabric preparation Preparation of printing device (block/flat or rotary screen, roller) Printing paste preparation Impress on fabric Drying the printed fabric Fixation by curing Washing & soaping Finally dry Delivery
Typical printing process involves following steps 1.Color paste preparation Printing is done by applying thicked print paste containing dyes or pigment. Thickener is used to maintain viscosity. The paste should have certain viscosity. If it is too thin the design wont be sharp & if it is too thick it wont penetrate into the fibre. Print paste= colorant+ thickener +auxiliary 2.Textile Printing The dye or pigment paste is applied to the substrate using different techniques.
3.Fixation Immediately after printing, the fabric is dried and then the prints are fixed mainly with steam or hot air (for pigments). Note that intermediate drying is not carried out when printing carpets (too much energy would be needed for removing the highly viscous liquor) 4.After-Treatment This final operation consists in washing and drying the fabric (it is not necessary when printing with pigments or with other particular techniques such as transfer printing)
Styles of printing
Different styles /techniques of printing: • Direct style (which also includes digital and transfer printing) • Resist style • Discharge style • Special style
Some special printing  Flock style  Dyed style  burnt out style  blotch printing  air brush ( spray) printing  photo printing  High density Combined Flock & Foil print
Cont… Rubber printing Metallic printing Foil printing Glitter printing Embossing Crack printing Foil printing
Puff printingGlitter printing High density print Flock print Air spray print
Direct styles of printing • A process wherein the colors for the desired designs are applied directly to the white or dyed cloth. • It is the most common approach to apply a color pattern onto a fabric. • If done on colored fabric, it is known as overprinting. • Example- block ,screen, transfer, ink jet. etc
How it is done • The desired pattern is produced by pressing dye on the fabric in a paste form. • To prepare the print paste, a thickening agent is added to a limited amount of water and dye is dissolved in it. • Earlier starch was preferred as a thickening agent for printing. Nowadays gums or alginates derived from seaweed are preferred as they allow better penetration of color and are easier to wash out. • Most pigment printing is done without thickeners because the mixing up of resins, solvents and water produces thickening anyway
Block Printing • The designs are carved on a wooden or metal block and the dyestuff in paste form is applied to the design on the face of the block. • The block is pressed down firmly by hand on the surface of the fabric.
Roller Printing • In this method which can be called a machine counterpart of block printing, engraved copper cylinders or rollers are used in place of hand carved blocks. • When the rollers move, a repeat of the design is printed on the fabric. The printed cloth is passed into a drying chamber and then in a steam chamber where the moisture and heat sets the dye.
fabric Roller printing
Screen Printing • It is done either with flat or cylindrical screens made of silk threads, nylon, polyester, or metal. The printing paste or dye is poured on the screen and forced through its unblocked areas onto the fabric. • Based on the type of the screen used, it is known as 1. Flat Screen Printing 2. Rotary Screen Printing
Flat bed screen print
Rotary screen print
Transfer printing • Transfer printing techniques involve the transfer of a design from one medium to another. The most common form used is heat transfer printing in which the design is printed initially on to a special paper, using conventional printing machinery. The paper is then placed in close contact with the fabric and heated, when the dyes sublime and transfer to the fabric through the vapor phase.
Styles of printing
Ink-Jet Printing : There has been considerable interest in the technology surrounding non-impact printing, mainly for the graphic market, but the potential benefits of reductions in the time scale from original design to final production has led to much activity in developing this technology for textile and carpet printing processes. The types of machines developed fall into two classes, drop-on-demand (DOD) and continuous stream (CS).
Discharge Printing • The literal meaning of the word “discharge” is to eliminate or to remove. • It means the style of printing which can produce a white or colored effect on a previously dyed fabric ground. • In this technique, the fabric is dyed in piece and then it is printed with a bleaching agent that destroys the color in the designated areas. Sometimes, the base color is removed and other color is printed in its place. The printed fabric is steamed and then thoroughly washed.
How it is done This discharging of color from previously dyed ground is carried out by a discharging agent, which is capable of destroying color by oxidation and reduction. The discharging agents are 1. Oxidizing agent i.e. • Potassium chlorate, • Na-chlorate etc. 2.Reducing agent • Rongalite-c, • Stannous chloride etc
Types of discharge printing style: 2 types of discharging styles are available. White discharge and colored discharge.
White discharge • The fabric is dyed with certain class of dye and then printed (according required design) with a print paste containing “Reducing agent” (usually “Rongolite C”) with no dyes. • After printing, the fabric is steamed. The reducing agent on the printed portion destroys the ground color and thus produced a white on base color.
Color discharge: The fabric is dyed with certain class of dye and then printed (according to required design) with a print paste containing “Reducing agent” (usually “Rongolite C”) with dyestuff. After printing, the fabric is steamed. The reducing agent on the printed portion destroys the ground color and due to the presence of dye in print paste, the new color is replaced with the design area. Thus it produces a color-color combination.
Resist Printing • The literal meaning of the term “Resist” is to prevent or to hinder. A resist (wax or other resinous substance) solution is applied according print design that will prevent the fixation of any coloring agent employed after words on that area. • In this technique, a resist paste is fixed onto the fabric and then it is dyed. The dye affects only those parts that are not covered by the resist paste. • After dyeing, the resist paste is removed leaving a pattern on the background of the fabric. Example- tie dye
How it is done • It is one of the oldest printing style in which two resulting pattern can be obtained. In resist printing the fabric is first printed with an agent that resists either dye penetration or dye fixation. During subsequent dyeing, only the areas free of the resist agent are colored. • A printing method in which the design can be produced: (1) by applying a resist agent in the desired design, then dyeing the fabric, in which case, the design remains white although the rest of the fabric is dyed; or (2) by including a resist agent and a dye in the paste which is applied for the design, in which case, the color of the design is not affected by subsequent dyeing of the fabric background.
How it is done
Styles of printing
Types of resist printing style 2 types of resist styles are available. White resist and colored resist. a. White resist: No color is added to the resist print paste. After printing according to design the fabric dried and then dyed so the unprinted portion will be dyed. The printed portion will be un- dyed. Thus it gives a color-white combination
b. Color resist: Required color is added to the resist printing paste. After printing according to design the fabric dried and then dyed so the unprinted portion will be dyed according to dye’s color and the printed portion will be printed according print paste color. This it gives a color-color combination.
Tie Dyeing • Firm knots are tied in the cloth before it is immersed in a dye. • The outside portion of the immersed fabric is dyed but the color does not penetrates the inside portions of the tied knots. • There are various forms of Tie dyeing like Ikat Dyeing where bundles of warp and/ or weft yarns are tie dyed prior to their weaving. • In Plangi Dyeing the gathered, folded or rolled fabric is usually held with stitching to form specific patterns.
Reference • http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/04/printing-styles.html • https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/07/printing-style-style-of- printing_9881.html • http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/printing.html

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Styles of printing

  • 1. Styles of Printing Presented by Fatema Sharmin Department of Wet Processing Engineering Bangladesh University of Textiles
  • 2. Printing • The word of “printing” has derived from a Latin word which means “pressing “. It implies a process that uses pressure. • Textile printing is one kind of localized dyeing where dyes or pigments & chemical applied by any method which can produce a particular effect of color on fabric according to design. • In a word, Applying colored patterns and designs to decorate a finished fabric is called 'Printing'. It’s a combination of art, engineering & dyeing.
  • 3. Feature of Printing:  Printing is applied in form of design or pattern. Single or multi color can be applied.  A special type of viscous liquid is used to hold the dye/pigment & chemical which is called ‘Print paste’.  High viscosity of print paste helps dye to adhere to surface of fibre. But the fixation is done by applying steam which is called ‘curing’  For dyeing low viscous or aqueous medium is used but printing is done in wet viscous medium.  The Dyes used for printing mostly include vat, reactive, naphthol (azoic) and disperse dyes which have good fastness properties.  The pigments, which are not truly dyes, are also used extensively for printing. About 96% is done by pigment. These colors are fixed to the fiber through binder.
  • 4. Alternative process of printing • There are some alternative processes for applying colorful design on fabric. But printing is the cheapest process that’s why it is widely used. The other processes are…….. • By dyed yarn in form of woven fabric. • Embroidery • Knitted with colored yarn. • Applique.
  • 6. A Typical Printing Process Involves the Following Steps Fabric preparation Preparation of printing device (block/flat or rotary screen, roller) Printing paste preparation Impress on fabric Drying the printed fabric Fixation by curing Washing & soaping Finally dry Delivery
  • 7. Typical printing process involves following steps 1.Color paste preparation Printing is done by applying thicked print paste containing dyes or pigment. Thickener is used to maintain viscosity. The paste should have certain viscosity. If it is too thin the design wont be sharp & if it is too thick it wont penetrate into the fibre. Print paste= colorant+ thickener +auxiliary 2.Textile Printing The dye or pigment paste is applied to the substrate using different techniques.
  • 8. 3.Fixation Immediately after printing, the fabric is dried and then the prints are fixed mainly with steam or hot air (for pigments). Note that intermediate drying is not carried out when printing carpets (too much energy would be needed for removing the highly viscous liquor) 4.After-Treatment This final operation consists in washing and drying the fabric (it is not necessary when printing with pigments or with other particular techniques such as transfer printing)
  • 10. Different styles /techniques of printing: • Direct style (which also includes digital and transfer printing) • Resist style • Discharge style • Special style
  • 11. Some special printing  Flock style  Dyed style  burnt out style  blotch printing  air brush ( spray) printing  photo printing  High density Combined Flock & Foil print
  • 12. Cont… Rubber printing Metallic printing Foil printing Glitter printing Embossing Crack printing Foil printing
  • 13. Puff printingGlitter printing High density print Flock print Air spray print
  • 14. Direct styles of printing • A process wherein the colors for the desired designs are applied directly to the white or dyed cloth. • It is the most common approach to apply a color pattern onto a fabric. • If done on colored fabric, it is known as overprinting. • Example- block ,screen, transfer, ink jet. etc
  • 15. How it is done • The desired pattern is produced by pressing dye on the fabric in a paste form. • To prepare the print paste, a thickening agent is added to a limited amount of water and dye is dissolved in it. • Earlier starch was preferred as a thickening agent for printing. Nowadays gums or alginates derived from seaweed are preferred as they allow better penetration of color and are easier to wash out. • Most pigment printing is done without thickeners because the mixing up of resins, solvents and water produces thickening anyway
  • 16. Block Printing • The designs are carved on a wooden or metal block and the dyestuff in paste form is applied to the design on the face of the block. • The block is pressed down firmly by hand on the surface of the fabric.
  • 17. Roller Printing • In this method which can be called a machine counterpart of block printing, engraved copper cylinders or rollers are used in place of hand carved blocks. • When the rollers move, a repeat of the design is printed on the fabric. The printed cloth is passed into a drying chamber and then in a steam chamber where the moisture and heat sets the dye.
  • 19. Screen Printing • It is done either with flat or cylindrical screens made of silk threads, nylon, polyester, or metal. The printing paste or dye is poured on the screen and forced through its unblocked areas onto the fabric. • Based on the type of the screen used, it is known as 1. Flat Screen Printing 2. Rotary Screen Printing
  • 22. Transfer printing • Transfer printing techniques involve the transfer of a design from one medium to another. The most common form used is heat transfer printing in which the design is printed initially on to a special paper, using conventional printing machinery. The paper is then placed in close contact with the fabric and heated, when the dyes sublime and transfer to the fabric through the vapor phase.
  • 24. Ink-Jet Printing : There has been considerable interest in the technology surrounding non-impact printing, mainly for the graphic market, but the potential benefits of reductions in the time scale from original design to final production has led to much activity in developing this technology for textile and carpet printing processes. The types of machines developed fall into two classes, drop-on-demand (DOD) and continuous stream (CS).
  • 25. Discharge Printing • The literal meaning of the word “discharge” is to eliminate or to remove. • It means the style of printing which can produce a white or colored effect on a previously dyed fabric ground. • In this technique, the fabric is dyed in piece and then it is printed with a bleaching agent that destroys the color in the designated areas. Sometimes, the base color is removed and other color is printed in its place. The printed fabric is steamed and then thoroughly washed.
  • 26. How it is done This discharging of color from previously dyed ground is carried out by a discharging agent, which is capable of destroying color by oxidation and reduction. The discharging agents are 1. Oxidizing agent i.e. • Potassium chlorate, • Na-chlorate etc. 2.Reducing agent • Rongalite-c, • Stannous chloride etc
  • 27. Types of discharge printing style: 2 types of discharging styles are available. White discharge and colored discharge.
  • 28. White discharge • The fabric is dyed with certain class of dye and then printed (according required design) with a print paste containing “Reducing agent” (usually “Rongolite C”) with no dyes. • After printing, the fabric is steamed. The reducing agent on the printed portion destroys the ground color and thus produced a white on base color.
  • 29. Color discharge: The fabric is dyed with certain class of dye and then printed (according to required design) with a print paste containing “Reducing agent” (usually “Rongolite C”) with dyestuff. After printing, the fabric is steamed. The reducing agent on the printed portion destroys the ground color and due to the presence of dye in print paste, the new color is replaced with the design area. Thus it produces a color-color combination.
  • 30. Resist Printing • The literal meaning of the term “Resist” is to prevent or to hinder. A resist (wax or other resinous substance) solution is applied according print design that will prevent the fixation of any coloring agent employed after words on that area. • In this technique, a resist paste is fixed onto the fabric and then it is dyed. The dye affects only those parts that are not covered by the resist paste. • After dyeing, the resist paste is removed leaving a pattern on the background of the fabric. Example- tie dye
  • 31. How it is done • It is one of the oldest printing style in which two resulting pattern can be obtained. In resist printing the fabric is first printed with an agent that resists either dye penetration or dye fixation. During subsequent dyeing, only the areas free of the resist agent are colored. • A printing method in which the design can be produced: (1) by applying a resist agent in the desired design, then dyeing the fabric, in which case, the design remains white although the rest of the fabric is dyed; or (2) by including a resist agent and a dye in the paste which is applied for the design, in which case, the color of the design is not affected by subsequent dyeing of the fabric background.
  • 32. How it is done
  • 34. Types of resist printing style 2 types of resist styles are available. White resist and colored resist. a. White resist: No color is added to the resist print paste. After printing according to design the fabric dried and then dyed so the unprinted portion will be dyed. The printed portion will be un- dyed. Thus it gives a color-white combination
  • 35. b. Color resist: Required color is added to the resist printing paste. After printing according to design the fabric dried and then dyed so the unprinted portion will be dyed according to dye’s color and the printed portion will be printed according print paste color. This it gives a color-color combination.
  • 36. Tie Dyeing • Firm knots are tied in the cloth before it is immersed in a dye. • The outside portion of the immersed fabric is dyed but the color does not penetrates the inside portions of the tied knots. • There are various forms of Tie dyeing like Ikat Dyeing where bundles of warp and/ or weft yarns are tie dyed prior to their weaving. • In Plangi Dyeing the gathered, folded or rolled fabric is usually held with stitching to form specific patterns.