The Complete Visual Guide To Building A House.pdf

The
Complete
VisualGuideto
Building
a House
John Carroll and Chuck Lockhart

The
Complete
VisualGuideto
Building
a House

The
Complete
VisualGuideto
Building
a House
C
John Carroll and Chuck Lockhart

Text © 2013 by The Taunton Press, Inc.
Illustrations © 2013 by The Taunton Press, Inc.
All rights reserved.
Pp
The Taunton Press, Inc., 63 South Main Street, PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506
e-mail: tp@taunton.com
Editors: Peter Chapman, Scott Gibson
Copy editor: Diane sinitsky
Indexer: jim curtis
Jacket/Cover design: jean-marc Trodaec
Interior design: carol singer | notice design
Layout: Cathy Cassidy, chuck lockhart
Illustrator: chuck lockhart
The following names/manufacturers appearing in The Complete Visual Guide to Building a House
are trademarks: Backer-On™; C. H. Hanson® Pivot Square™; CavClear®; Cor-A-Vent®; Dap® Presto Patch®; Deck-
Armor™; Delta®-MS; DensShield®; DrainWrap™; DuPont StraightFlash™; DuPont™ FlexWrap™; Durock®; Festool®;
FoamSealR™; HardieBacker®; Home Slicker®; Ice & Water Shield®; Jambsill Guard®; Level-Best®; McFeely’s®;
MortarNet®; Osmose®; Porter-Cable®; RainDrop®; RockRipper®; Roofer’s Select™; Schluter®-DITRA; Sheetrock®;
Shingle Mate®; Simpson Strong-Tie®; Stanley® Quick Square®; StormGuard®; Super ThoroSeal®; Sure-Tite™;
SureCorner™; SureSill™ HeadFlash™ and HeadFlash-Flex™; Swanson® Big 12® Speed® Square; T-JAK®; Tapcon®;
Telpro® Panellift®; Timberline®; Titanium® 30; Typar®; Tyvek® StuccoWrap®; Warm-N-Dri®; Warner® Tool;
WaterWay™; Weathermate™ Sill Pan; WeatherTrek®; WinterGuard™; Wolman™; WonderBoard®
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Carroll, John (John Michael), 1949-
The complete visual guide to building a house / John Carroll and Chuck Lockhart.
pages cm
Includes index.
E-Book ISBN 978-1-62710-608-5
1. House construction--Handbooks, manuals, etc. 2. House construction--Pictorial works. I. Lockhart, Chuck. II. Title.
TH4813.C37 2014
690’.837--dc23
2013048589
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
About Your Safety: Construction is inherently dangerous. Using hand or power tools improperly or
ignoring safety practices can lead to permanent injury or even death. Don’t try to perform operations
you learn about here (or elsewhere) unless you’re certain they are safe for you. If something about an
operation doesn’t feel right, don’t do it. Look for another way. We want you to enjoy working on your
home, so please keep safety foremost in your mind.

For my mother, Emily J. Carroll (1923–2012)
The idea for this book came from Steve Culpepper, who, at the
time, served as executive book editor for The Taunton Press. In looking at the
available general guides to residential building, Steve found that most were
several decades old and contained outdated information. He felt there was a
need for a reference that reflected today’s building industry, and, to my good
fortune, he thought I should be the one to write it.
Shortly after I started writing this book, however, Steve left Taunton and
Peter Chapman took over as book editor. In addition to all his other duties,
Peter served as the primary editor of this book. Peter’s help proved to be
invaluable. I am especially grateful for his forbearance with me as a writer
whose “cup runneth over” on a regular basis. In chapter after chapter, I sub-
mitted too many words and too much information, so Peter would patiently
work with me to pare the text down to a manageable size. With Peter’s help, I
was able to identify the essential information and present it in a much more
concise manner. His insights and suggestions made this book shorter, clearer,
and better organized.
My in-depth discussion of common building procedures would be confus-
ing without accompanying drawings. To graphically represent what I’ve
described, The Taunton Press brought in one of the finest illustrators in the
business, Chuck Lockhart. Having worked as art director for Fine Homebuilding
magazine for 18 years, Chuck brought a wealth of experience to this project.
His drawings are more extensive and provide more detail than would have
been possible with photographs, which require access to building projects at
key moments in the job. Anything I could describe Chuck could draw. Chuck
was able to highlight key details through the use of color and shading; in
many drawings, Chuck skillfully employed such devices as cutaway views and
cross-sectional drawings to show how the details of the job fit into the whole.
After all the parts of this book were produced, the unenviable task of
putting them together fell to Scott Gibson. A skilled carpenter and an accom-
plished writer and editor, Scott went through every word of text and every
drawing. In addition to looking for and finding mistakes, inconsistencies, and
omissions, Scott extracted information from the running text and applied it,
in the form of labels, to the drawings. His painstaking attention to detail,
his focus on accuracy, and his knowledge of current building practices—
especially the latest in building science—were extremely helpful and greatly
improved the quality of this book.
—John Carroll
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Building the Structure 4
Chapter 1
Building Foundations 6
Chapter 2
Framing Floors, Walls, and Ceilings 50
Chapter 3
Framing Roofs 1: Raftered Roofs 98
Chapter 4
Framing Roofs 2: Trusses, Eaves, Rakes,
and Sheathing 142
Closing the House to the Weather 182
Chapter 5
Roofing the House 184
Chapter 6
Installing Windows, Exterior Doors,
Siding, and Trim 231
Chapter 7
Controlling Moisture in the Ground
and in the Air 278

pa r t tw o
pa r t o n e
introduction
table of contents

Finishing the House 308
Chapter 8
Installing Wall and Floor Coverings 310
Chapter 9
Hanging Doors 354
Chapter 10
Installing Trim and Cabinets 396
Chapter 11
Building Stairs 442
appendices
Conversions 500
Base-1 Proportions of Standard Roof Pitches 501
Backing Angles for Regular Hips and Valleys 502
Base-1 Proportions of Regular Hips and Valley Pitches 503
Converting X-in-12 Roof Pitch to Degrees of an Angle 504
Converting X-in-16.97 Roof Pitch to Degrees 505
Miter and Bevel Settings for Crown Molding 506
Index 514
pa r t t h r ee

2
In America, houses are built in areas where several feet of
snow accumulate, where hurricanes can be expected, or where tempera-
tures exceed 100°F. In some areas, all these conditions might occur within
the same year. Within these very different climatic regions, furthermore,
individual building sites pose a wide variety of challenges. The surface of
the land might slope steeply; the soil might contain expansive clay or bed-
rock; or there might be too much moisture in the ground.
To meet these and other challenges, builders have to adjust the design
of their houses to the climatic and topographical conditions of the area
they live in. In Florida, for example, roof structures must be tied down
with steel straps to keep them from being lifted off the walls during hur-
ricanes. In Maine, on the other hand, roof frames must be beefed up to keep
them from collapsing under the weight of several feet of snow. These mea-
sures, which are required by building codes, go a long way toward creating
durable houses.
Beyond simply building houses that last, however, builders need
to create houses that perform. Once viewed as basic shelters from the
extremes of the weather, houses are now seen as climate-controlled
enclaves. Most people expect the environment inside their house to be
comfortable year-round, no matter how brutal the weather is outside.
Accomplishing this goal in the face of ever-increasing energy costs is one of
the biggest challenges confronting builders today. Again, the plan of attack
has to be tailored to the location of the house. A house that keeps a family
warm during the winter on the Northern Plains has to be built much differ-
ently than a house that provides relief from the heat and humidity in the
Deep South.
The diverse local requirements of home building coupled with an
ever-expanding choice of building materials, tools, and systems present a
fundamental problem for a book like this one. Because there are so many
approaches and options, it’s difficult to decide what to discuss and how
detailed that discussion should be. As on any major building project, there
have been many hard decisions to make and there have been many inter-
esting and worthwhile topics that I could not include in this book.
introduction

The first thing I decided to drop was a comparative analysis of different
building systems. There are at least a half-dozen alternatives to the light
wood-framed house in America. However, builders and homeowners con-
tinue to vote with their wallets for the wood-framed house, which accounts
for 90% of the houses in the United States and Canada. Rather than devote
a good portion of this book to a discussion of the strengths and weaknesses
of the other systems, I chose to focus on the one system that dominates the
housing market: the wood-framed house.
Along the same lines, I’ve focused on mainstream materials when
describing the rest of the house. In the chapter on foundations, for example,
I concentrated on concrete and masonry, and in the chapter on roofing,
I focused on asphalt shingles because most houses in America are built
with those materials. If you happen to use materials that are outside of the
mainstream, there’s a good chance that the installation techniques pre-
sented here will work, with minor adjustments, with the materials you use.
I’ve also focused on common building projects and designs. Throughout
the book, I posed hypothetical building projects and then suggested ways
to build them. In these projects, the rectangle predominated—just as it
does on most residential building sites. In general, I have steered clear of
complex designs, such as octangular buildings and curved staircases—both
because they couldn’t be covered adequately in the space allotted and
because they are rare in American houses.
Sticking with common design elements and mainstream materials has
allowed me to go into considerable detail when describing building tech-
niques. These details are often vital to the quality of the job, and builders
who overlook them or try to force them in as an afterthought usually end
up with substandard work. Throughout this book, therefore, I’ve hammered
home the idea that quality work requires two things: forethought and the
proper sequence of installation. It’s essential to think through the details at
the beginning of the job and then install them at just the right moment.
No book, including this one, can provide every important detail for every
job. What I’ve tried to do here is show how to look at the job, anticipate
problems, and then work in the optimal sequence to fit the parts together
smoothly and correctly. Learn these lessons well and you’ll find it easy to
progress to more complex jobs.
introduction 3

6
50
98
142
5
PA r t o n e
Building the structure
C H A P T E R 1
Building Foundations
C H A P T E R 2
Framing Floors, Walls, and Ceilings
C H A P T E R 3
Framing Roofs 1: Raftered Roofs
C H A P T E R 4
Framing Roofs 2: Trusses, Eaves,
Rakes, and Sheathing

6
1
CHAPTER
Building
foundations
the foundAtion of A house serves two basic
functions. First, it protects the rest of the house from the
harmful effects of the soil. By holding the frame of the
house up off the ground, the foundation keeps it a safe
distance from the moisture, frost, termites, mildew,
rot-producing fungi, and other organisms that live in
the ground.
Second, the foundation serves as a transition from
the irregular surface of the land to the level, plumb, and
square surfaces of the house. Before the foundation,
there is nothing but dirt; after the foundation, there
should be a square and plumb structure with a level top.
It is upon this ﬂ
at and even surface that the carpenters
begin the frame of the house.
This chapter deals with the challenge of building a
foundation that is strong enough to carry the weight of
the entire house; tough enough to endure decades of
direct contact with the ground; and precise enough to
use as a ﬁ
rst reference for building the rest of the house.

frAMing floors, wAlls, And ceilings 7
2
Assessing and Preparing the soil
The loads that houses place on soils are, by engineering standards,
relatively light. Most building codes, furthermore, are conservative in
design. They require wide footings that spread the load of the house,
allowing the footings to work in soil that is not ideal. If you carefully
follow the provisions of the building code, the soil you encounter on
site is usually capable of supporting the house or addition that you
are building.
However, problem soils do exist and they require measures that
go beyond the general provisions in the building code. Foundations
that settle unevenly create out-of-level fl
oors and doors that don’t
open and close properly.
what to look for in the soil
There are a few things you can do to determine if you need to bring
in a soils engineer. The fi
rst is to look carefully at the soil. Keep an
eye on how the soil behaves under load, especially after it rains.
These are commonsense observations. If the soil becomes soft and
mushy underfoot and trucks and equipment frequently get mired in
it, you might have a problem.
Excavating for the foundation The most important person to
look to for advice is your building inspector. Building offi
cials are
usually familiar with the problem soils in their areas and often know
where they are most likely to occur. They can sometimes recognize
problem soils simply by looking at them.
In some extreme cases, houses have
been ruined beyond repair by failed
foundations.
Most problem soils are classified as
clay or silt or a combination thereof.
The inorganic particles in these soils
are very fine—less than 0.003 in. in
diameter. When combined with water,
clays often become sticky or mushy.
When silts dry, they become fluffy;
they are sometimes called rock flour.
Coarse sand and rocky soils have
excellent load-bearing abilities. If you
encounter these soils, however, you
need to make sure that they are con-
sistent over the length of the footing.
Good, stable soils next to unstable
soils can translate into differential
movement.
1
Preparing the Soil
If you encounter problem soil
and are required to bring in
an engineer, make sure you
understand what the engi-
neer recommends and follow
those recommendations to the
letter. If you and the building
inspector find the soil accept-
able, you need to follow the
requirements of the building
code in your area.
toP tiP
1

8 Building the structure
Monolithic slab: Simply scrape any
organic matter off the surface. The
bottom should be roughly level.
Crawlspace: Scrape any organic
matter off the surface but leave
the grade roughly the same as you
found it.
Basement excavations: It’s important
not to go too deep when you dig
these foundations.
excavation: An overview
If you’re building a basement, the excavation consists of an open-
ing in the ground with a roughly level bottom. This opening has to
be a few feet wider and longer than the house. The correct elevation
of the bottom of the opening should be determined in advance as
outlined in the section on foundation layout on p. 11. As the exca-
vator gets down close to this elevation, you should start checking
the elevation of the bottom of the opening. At the same time, check
the bottom for levelness. The techniques for measuring the eleva-
tion and the levelness of the bottom of the opening are discussed in
detail in the section on p. 11 on foundation layout.
STEP 1 excavating for the foundation
Proposed foundation
STEP 2 digging the footings
1 Building codes require that the bottom of the footing
be below the frost line. Wet soil that freezes expands as
much as 8%. As it expands, it rises and lifts whatever is on
it, including the footings of houses. To avoid frost heave,
as it’s called, you are required to place the footing below
the frost line (the depth to which the ground freezes).
This means that in Maine it’s often necessary to dig down
48 in. or more, while in Florida a trench 8 in. deep is often
sufficient for the footing.
The frost line in Maine is 48 in. The frost line in Florida is 8 in.

1
2 It’s important to make sure that no sizeable amounts of organic matter
remain in the soil after the excavation. Make sure that the footing rests on
well-compacted soil. The simplest and surest way to do this is to place the con-
crete on undisturbed soil. Digging into undisturbed soil loosens it and fluffs it
up by as much as 50%. If this disturbed soil is left loose under the footing, the
weight of the house eventually compresses it back to its original size. When it
does, the footing often cracks.
Remove any
organic matter that
extends below the
proposed excavation.
Undisturbed soil
Disturbed soil
wAy s o f w o r k i n g
Testing the Soil
One unscientific way to test the load-bearing capacity of
the soil is to push a steel stake into the ground. Building
inspectors often have a T-shaped tool made out of
½-in.-dia. steel rod. To test the soil prior to a footing
pour, the inspector leans on the cross of the T and sees
how far the upright sinks into the ground. If the steel
rod slides into the soil with little resistance, the inspector
will require remedial work.
A more objective way to test the soil under the foot-
ing is with a penetrometer. A penetrometer is a handheld
device that works like a fisherman’s scale in reverse. You
push the penetrometer in the soil and check the pressure
on a calibrated scale. Look for consistent readings along
the length of the footing and a bearing value that meets
the design load in your area (usually 1,500 lb. to 2,500 lb.
per square foot). For soil found to be below that bearing
capacity, most jurisdictions require a plan drawn up by
an engineer.
Steel stake
Penetrometer
Building foundAtions 9

5 Footings spread the load they carry over a broad area. If
the weight of the building is concentrated on the edge of
the footing, however, it can cause the footing to rotate—just
as stepping on the edge of a snowshoe set on top of freshly
fallen snow would cause it to tip over.
3 To avoid the problems caused by disturbed soil in the
footing, clean loose material out of the footing trench
with hand tools (square shovels, mattocks, and hoes,
for example).
Wall centered over footing
4 Use a jumping jack compactor to reconsolidate the soil,
especially in those spots where tree stumps or large rocks
have been removed.
For clay or silt, add
sand or gravel to the
original soil as you
reconsolidate the area.
Dampen the mixture
and place it in 8-in.-
deep or less layers as
you compact it.
Off-center wall
have been removed.
For clay or silt, add
sand or gravel to the
original soil as you
reconsolidate the area.
Dampen the mixture
and place it in 8-in.-
deep or less layers as
you compact it.
An off-center footing
placed on soils with
relatively low bearing
capacity (clay, silt) can
fail.

1
laying out foundations
The general pattern for foundation layout is from the top down.
The process begins on the ground, where there are no straight lines,
no level surfaces, and no square corners. It’s up to you to create these
references from scratch. The fi
rst step in this process is to set up a
leveling instrument to project a level plane above the ground. From
this level plane, you establish the elevation of the top of the founda-
tion. All subsequent elevations are then measured down from this
top-of-foundation elevation.
At the top-of-foundation elevation, you can install several batter
boards that hold strings within a level plane at that height. You can
then use the strings to precisely lay out the positions of the footings
and foundation walls in plan view. On some foundations, however,
it’s easier to excavate the opening for the house, then drop down to
the top-of-footing elevation. At that elevation, you can use a combi-
nation of batter boards and forms to lay out the precise positions of
the footings and walls.
Whether you lay out the footing and walls at the top-of-
foundation elevation or at the top-of-footing level, the layout is
suspended above the ground. It has to be this way for two reasons.
First, the suspended layout establishes the exact elevations of the
key components of the foundation. Second, the fl
at, level plane
ensures that the key parts of the foundation are the right size and in
the right place. You can’t execute a precise layout on the ground; the
sloped and uneven surface will distort the dimensions and render
them inexact.
The following section uses two examples to show how to lay out
two different kinds of foundations. The designs presented here are
common; however, some of the details might not be accepted where
you live. Check with your local building offi
cials to fi
nd out what’s
needed in your area. Although specifi
c examples are used here, the
basic procedures can be adapted to just about any foundation.
It’s Essential Not to
Overexcavate
Digging too deep, then put-
ting dirt back in the opening
compromises the integrity of
the soil under the footings. To
avoid overexcavating, check
the bottom of the opening
with increasing frequency as
you get closer to the desired
elevation.
toP tiP
Leveling instrument Top of foundation

Approximately 30 ft.
Corner stake
Getting the Grade Right
For the final grade around a house, most building codes
require that at least 8 in. of the foundation extend out
of the ground and that the soil slope away from the
foundation a minimum of 6 in. within the first 10 ft. To
achieve this minimum standard on the uphill side of the
foundation, measure the elevation 10 ft. uphill from the
planned foundation wall and set the elevation of the top
of the foundation at least 14 in. higher than the eleva-
tion at that point. Later, when you backfill around the
foundation, you’ll have enough elevation to form the
required grade on the uphill side. Leaving the founda-
tion higher than this minimum standard allows you to
increase the grade and hold the house up even higher
out of the ground.
laying out a Basement foundation
In this example, the foundation is a 38-ft. by 30-ft. basement that projects about 30 in.
above the highest point of the surrounding grade. The corners of the house have been
roughly marked with stakes and the elevation established as 30 in. above one of the
stakes. The ﬁ
rst thing you have to do is guide the excavator through the excavation
of the opening for the foundation. In this phase of the layout, make sure the excavator
digs in the right place, gets the opening the correct size, and makes the bottom level
and at the correct height. It is upon the roughly level surface at the bottom of the
excavation that you’ll lay out the footing and the foundation walls.
8 in. (min.) 6-in. (min.) slope 14 in. (min.)
Top of
foundation
10 ft.

1
2 Record the elevation of the foundation. In this case, the desired elevation
for the top of the foundation is 30 in. above the highest corner stake. Using a
leveling instrument, measure the difference in elevation between the top of
the corner stake and the top of the nearest offset stake. (See “Using a Leveling
Instrument” on p. 14.)
Place the offset stakes 10 ft. from
the original corner stakes. Drive
offset stakes deep into the ground
so that very little extends above
the surface.
Original corner stakes
In this example, the bench mark stake
is 6 in. higher than the corner stake.
Bench mark
Corner stake
The top of the foundation, therefore, should be
24 in. above the top of the bench mark stake.
The top of the foundation is
30 in. above the corner stake.
STEP 1 record the preliminary layout
1 When the excavator digs the oversized opening for the basement, the stakes
marking the corners of the house will be obliterated. To preserve the layout,
set up a line that extends over the corners of the house, then drive offset
stakes into the ground along that line. Place the offset stakes a set distance
away from the original corner stakes. A 10-ft. offset is common because it’s a
safe distance away from the excavation and it’s an easy distance to remember.
The offset stakes should be in line with the long walls (the 38-ft. walls, in
this example).
Flag the location of the
offset stakes with nearby
stakes that extend 16 in.
aboveground; attach
brightly colored ribbons.

Using a Leveling Instrument
There are two basic kinds of leveling instruments commonly used by builders:
optical levels (also called sight or telescopic levels) and laser levels. Both of
these kinds of levels come in many forms and are capable of doing numerous
measuring tasks. They share one feature in common, however; they all project
a level line and a level plane. For most residential builders, this basic feature is
the most important role of these tools.
An optical tool provides a level line of
sight. Swiveling the tool horizontally
establishes a level plane.
• MEASURING TO THE LEVEL PLANE
You can measure the grade of the land, establish the
elevation of key foundation components, set forms pre-
cisely level, and do many other layout tasks by measuring
to the level plane projected by a leveling instrument.
A laser level that projects a single
level line works the same way as
an optical level; swiveling it
establishes a level plane.
• ESTABLISHING A LEVEL PLANE
Different leveling instruments project a level plane in
different ways.
Lasers can also project a
level plane that radiates
in all directions from the
instrument.
Most leveling instruments
can be mounted on a tripod.
Many self-adjusting lasers
have flat bottoms and can
be set on any reasonably
flat surface.
To find the high corner of the grade after a house
has been staked out, measure the distance from the
ground up to the plane at all the corners. The shortest
distance indicates the highest point of the grade.
A sighting rod, a large measuring stick
that’s marked off in feet and inches, is
used to determine the measurement.
A tape measure, carpenter’s rule, large
measuring stick, or simply a strip of wood
can serve the same purpose.
House stake

1
1
1
• FINDING AND USING THE “DIFFERENCE IN
ELEVATION”
Key elevations are often established in relation to a single refer-
ence called a bench mark. Once you know this dimension, you can
quickly compute the other critical elevations.
The distance from the bench mark to the top
of the foundation is the difference of elevation
between the two points.
Bench mark
Proposed top of foundation
• RESETTING THE LEVEL
The difference in elevation between the bench mark and any
critical elevation of the foundation is constant. The elevation
of the plane projected by the instrument, however, changes
when the instrument is repositioned.
The difference in elevation between the bench mark and any
critical elevation of the foundation is constant. The elevation
of the plane projected by the instrument, however, changes
when the instrument is repositioned.
DAY 1: Difference
between site line and top
of proposed foundation
DAY 1: Difference between top of
proposed foundation and bench mark
DAY 2: Difference between top of proposed
foundation and bench mark remains the same.
DAY 2: Difference between
site line and top of proposed
foundation changes.

1 Stretch strings between the corner
stakes and mark the ground about
4 ft. outside of the strings. You
can use a 4-ft. level as a gauge to
measure the distance from the
string. To mark the line, use lime or
dry masonry mortar poured from a
paper cup or use brightly colored
spray paint.
STEP 2 Mark and dig the opening
Corner stake
Use a 4-ft. level to
gauge distance.
Flag
Offset stake
A dry mortar line or
spray paint marks the
area to dig.
2 Before you begin digging, establish the exact distance that you need to dig
below the bench mark. This requires that you know the design of the founda-
tion, including the exact heights of the materials that you’re going to use.
Make all measurements from the same reference: the targeted top-of-
foundation elevation. In this example, the top of foundation elevation has
been established at 24 in. above the bench mark.
The bench mark is 24 in.
below the planned top of the
foundation.
The top of the walls will be
96 in. above the top of the
footing.
4 in.
100 in. (96 in. + 4 in. above
the bottom of the excavation)
96 in.
76 in. (100 – 24 = 76)
below the bench mark
You know that the
bench mark is 24 in.
below the planned
top of the foundation;
therefore, the bottom
of the excavation
should be 76 in.
(100 – 24 = 76) below
the bench mark. 72 in.

2
3 Set up a leveling instrument outside of the opening. After leveling
the instrument, measure the height that it reads above the bench mark
(here, 14 in.). Add this amount to 76 in. The total, 90 in., is the distance from
the level line projected by the instrument to the bottom of the excavation.
14 in.
76 in.
90 in.
86 in.
Use a surveyor’s rod
to check the depth of
the opening.
Grade stake
Place a grade stake as a reference for the top of the footings. Drive this
down until the top is exactly 86 in. below the level line projected by the
leveling instrument. As the drawing on the facing page shows, this is 72 in.
below the bench mark and 96 in. below the desired top-of-foundation.
STEP 3 lay out the ﬁ
rst wall
EXAMPLE 1 assumes that you removed the instrument at the end of the
excavation and have returned the next day to lay out the footings.
1 Pull a string from one offset
stake to the other along either
of the long walls.
2 Near each side of the excavation, drive in a pair of stakes,
with the string above roughly centered between them. Leave
about 8 in. of the stakes above the bottom of the excavation.
3 Set up the instrument in the bottom of the
opening and shoot the difference in elevation
between the line projected by the instrument
and the top of the grade stake.
4 Use the instrument and
a measuring stick or rod to
mark the four stakes at the
same distance below the
projected line.
Offset stake
Bench mark
Measuring stick
1

EXAMPLE 2 assumes that you did not set a grade stake
just after the excavation.
1 Set up the instrument
outside the opening and
shoot a level line anywhere
above the bench mark.
2 The difference in elevation between the bench mark
and the line projected by the instrument is 11 in.
3 The top of the footing has to be 72 in.
below the bench mark. Mark the stakes at
83 in. (72 + 11 = 83 ) below the line projected
by the instrument.
Offset
stake
Bench
mark
Measuring stick
83 in.
4 Once you have the four stakes marked,
attach a horizontal batter board between
each pair of stakes, with the tops of the
boards even with the marks.
Use screws rather than
nails to avoid jostling the
stakes out of position.
The batter board should be level,
exactly 72 in. below the bench
mark, and cross directly below the
string that represents the wall.
5 Transfer the exact location of the
string down to the batter boards.
You also could use a 6-ft.
spirit level or a plumb bob to
transfer this location.
String
attached to
bench mark
6 After marking both batter
boards, set a string from one
mark to the other. The string is
set at the desired elevation for
the top of the footing.
In plan view,
the string is
even with the
outside of the
foundation wall.
Location of
foundation wall
Set a self-leveling
laser with a
plumb beam on
the batter board
and slide it until
the beam strikes
the string.

2
1
1
• THE PYTHAGOREAN THEOREM IN USE:
If you have a triangle with an Altitude of 12 and a Base of 16,
the math goes like this:
You can expand or contract any right
triangle without changing its angles by
multiplying or dividing all three sides by
the same number. If you divide all three
sides of the triangle just discussed by 4, for
example, you end up with a 3-4-5 triangle
that retains the exact same angles:
To shrink this 3-4-5 triangle to a tri-
angle with a base of 1, divide all
three sides by 4:
To expand this 0.75-1-1.25 triangle
back to a triangle with a base of 16,
multiply all three sides by 16:
A
B
H
• EXPANDING AND CONTRACTING RIGHT TRIANGLES
12 ÷ 4 = 3
16 ÷ 4 = 4
20 ÷ 4 = 5
3 ÷ 4 = 0.75
4 ÷ 4 = 1
5 ÷ 4 = 1.25
16 × 0.75 = 12
16 × 1 = 16
16 × 1.25 = 20
• LAYING OUT ACUTE AND OBTUSE ANGLES
In addition to laying out a perpendicular line, you can use the
geometry of a right triangle to lay out obtuse and acute angles.
To lay out a 45º turn in a 30-ft.-wide foundation, for example, set
up parallel lines 30 ft. apart. Calculate the hypotenuse of a right
triangle with two sides of 30 ft.:
√2 × 30 = 42.42
Pull the 42.42-ft. dimension from a fixed point on one line to the
other and mark that point. A line drawn through these points runs
at a 45° angle from the other lines.
30 ft.
42.42 ft.
Working with Right Triangles
A right triangle has one side perpendicular to another. This
property allows you to use the geometry of a right triangle to
quickly lay out 90º angles.
The Pythagorean Theorem is a 2,500-year-old formula for
finding the hypotenuse (the unknown measurement) of a
right triangle. The formula can be written: Hypotenuse =
√ Altitude² + Base² or H = √A2
+ B2
.
e s s e n t i A l s k i l l s
H = √122
+ 162
√144 + 256
√400
20

STEP 5 lay out the corners of the foundation
1 Measure 30 ft. from the
first string set up in step 3,
and drive a pair of stakes
at each end to straddle the
30-ft. measurement.
STEP 4 lay out the other long wall
2 Use the leveling instrument to
mark the stakes at the same eleva-
tion as the first two pairs of stakes
(i.e., 72 in. below the bench mark).
4 Adjust the posi-
tion of the string
along the batter
boards until it’s
exactly 30 ft. away
from and parallel
to the first string.
3 Attach batter boards
with the top edge even
with the marks.
First string set up
Plan view of excavation
1 Mark the offset stake string at
10 ft. to establish the first corner mark.
2 Plumb down to the lower string
and mark the location on the
foundation wall string below.
3 Measure and mark the
length of the foundation
wall (38 ft.) along the
lower string.
5 Pull a tape from the 38-ft. mark
diagonally until the tape reads
48 ft. 5 in.
6 Repeat step 4 to
locate the last corner.
7 The distance between the two marks
on the second string should be 38 ft.
Offset stake
4 Use the Pythagorean
Theorem, as described
on p. 19, to determine
the hypotenuse of a
right triangle with sides
of 38 ft. and 30 ft. This
comes to 48 ft. 5 in.

1
STEP 6 form the footing
1 Mark the batter boards 4 in. outside of the strings
that represent the outside of the foundation wall.
2 Attach lines that run from
one mark to the other.
3 Place 2x4 forms 1⁄8 in. away from the
string. Place stakes outside of the form.
The top of the form should be even with
the string.
4 To mark locations for the side
walls on the forms, set strings
that extend across the opening
from one of the form boards
to the other so the strings cross
over the corner marks you made
on the long wall strings.
5 Measure 4 in. from the sidewall strings and
mark the location of the outside of the footings
for the two side walls, then run strings between
the marks.
6 Place forms
along the
strings.
7 On the forms, measure and mark 12 in. in from the
strings representing the outside walls of the foundation.
These measurements mark the inside of the footings.
8 Build a form
along the inside
of these lines
to complete the
perimeter foot-
ing forms.
On many houses, the
plans specify footings for
piers (or posts). If these
are specified, carefully
measure from the strings
that represent the walls
to lay out the exact posi-
tions of the pier footings.
Form the pier footings
with 2x4s at the same
height as the perimeter
footings.
Make sure that the positions of the strings that represent
the foundation walls are clearly marked on the forms.

STEP 8 Prepare for the footing pour
Install steel as required by your local code and by the
specifications on your plan. Check with the plumber
and septic system subcontractor for possible pipe place-
ment and any pipes or sleeves in the form. If a sump
pump is needed, place the pipe through the form.
In most jurisdictions, you’re required to have the
footing examined by the building inspector at this
point. Once you get the go-ahead from the inspector,
calculate the volume of concrete needed and schedule
a delivery. (There will be information on estimating
concrete quantities in the next section.)
STEP 7 dig the footings
Remove the strings and dig the footing between the
forms with a square shovel. Make the bottom of the
footing 8 in. from the top of the form. The bottom of the
trench should be flat and consist of undisturbed soil, and
the sides should extend straight down from the forms.
Measure frequently to
avoid overdigging.
Place vertical pieces
of steel precisely
by measuring and
marking directly on
the forms.
To measure the depth, place a
straightedge across the form and
measure to its bottom edge.
STEP 9 Pour the footing
Pour the concrete and strike it even with the top of the
form. Form a keyway in the footing, if your foundation
plan calls for one.
Place strips of wood in the wet
concrete just after you’ve placed
the concrete to mold the keyways.
Pour the concrete and strike it even with the top of the
form. Form a keyway in the footing, if your foundation
Place strips of wood in the wet
concrete just after you’ve placed
the concrete to mold the keyways.

1
STEP 10 lay out the walls
A few days after pouring the footings, you can lay out the
foundation walls on the hardened concrete. The top of
the concrete should be level and at the correct elevation.
The locations of the walls are recorded on the forms.
Once you’ve determined that the layout is precisely
correct, you can build 96-in.-tall walls from poured con-
crete, concrete block, or insulated concrete forms. Any of
these wall systems would bring the foundation up to the
targeted elevation.
In cold climates, part of the footing may have to be dug
deeper than 8 in. If you’re planning a walk-out basement
door, the footing under and near the door may have to be
stepped down to get it below the frost line. Check with
your building inspector to see what you need.
1 Pull strings from the marks on
the forms to check the layout.
2 Check the
lengths of the
four walls.
4 Strike chalklines on the concrete.
3 Check the diagonals in
both directions to make
sure the layout is correct.
Marks on forms

Setting Up a Line Quickly and Accurately
Because builders use stringlines extensively for concrete, masonry, and carpentry
layout, it’s important to learn how to set one up quickly and accurately. Lines
generally need to be drawn tightly to remove sag, so it’s usually necessary
to attach them securely.
• ANCHORING THE LINE TO WOOD
SURFACES
When you have a wood surface, it’s often possible to drive a
nail halfway into the surface, then tie the line off to the nail.
1 Loop the string
around your index
finger, and twirl your
finger several times.
2 Hook the loop over
the nail.
3 Pull the loose end of
the string one way and
the taut end the other.
1 Loop the
string around
your thumb and
forefinger.
Method One
Method Two
2 Turn your
hand down
to create two
loops.
3 Slip the loops
over the nail
and pull the
string tight.
e s s e n t i A l s k i l l s
3 Slip the loops
over the nail
and pull the
string tight.

1
• LINE BLOCKS
Line blocks allow you to secure a line without
using nails. This has a few advantages: You can
attach the string to finished surfaces without
making a nail hole; you can secure the string to
concrete and masonry surfaces; and you can adjust
the position of the line easily.
2 Wind the string
back around the
middle of the block.
3 Pull the string back through
the kerf.
4 Hook the line
block on any
square edge.
Tension from
the line holds it
in place.
• LAYING OUT ONE LINE
PARALLEL TO ANOTHER
1 Attach the
first string at the
desired location.
2 Measure the desired
distance to other batter
boards and mark a rough
measurement.
To lay out one line parallel to and a
set distance away from another, use a
pair of batter boards for each line.
3 Attach the
second string
to batter
boards near the
preliminary mark.
4 Swing the tape in an arc, and adjust the
line until it’s at the high point of the arc.
1 Pull the string through
the kerf cut in the back of
the block.

laying out a crawlspace foundation
In this example, the foundation is a 24-ft. by 40-ft. crawlspace that projects
about 32 in. above the high point in the grade around the house. The foun-
dation will be built from 8 x 8 x 16-in. concrete blocks. (These are often
speciﬁ
ed as CMUs, or concrete masonry units.)
The house is being built in an area where the frost line is 24 in. The
excavator has scraped the ground clear of organic matter but left the grade
roughly the same as the surrounding terrain. The opening is several feet
larger than the footprint of the house. The location of the house has been
roughly staked out by the owner and architect.
1 Set up the leveling instrument
and shoot the elevation of the four
corners staked out by the owner.
About 10 ft. beyond the high corner
and along the line the long wall will
follow, drive in two large stakes.
STEP 1 find the high corner and establish the elevation of the foundation
2 Check the difference in elevation
between the level line projected
by the instrument and the grade at
the high corner. In this example, the
level line shot by the instrument is
47 in. higher than the grade at the
high corner. Since the planned top of
foundation elevation is 32 in. above
grade at this corner, the top of the
foundation should be laid out 15 in.
below the level line projected by the
instrument (47 – 32 = 15). Repeat for
the other corners.
The stakes need to be about 5 ft. long,
and they should be made out of sub-
stantial pieces of lumber (2x4s or 2x6s).
Place stakes 4 ft. apart so they
straddle the line of the long
wall of the house.
Hold a ruler vertically with the
15-in. dimension even with the
line shot by the instrument.
Use a screw gun to
attach a batter board
to the stakes at this
elevation.
Mark the stake
at the bottom
of the ruler.
Corner stake
47 in.
Level line
Level sight line
Proposed foundation
along grade
High corner
High corner
stake
15 in.
32 in.

2
STEP 2 create a level plane for the layout
Because the batter boards are at the same elevation, any lines extended from
one batter board to another will be level and in the same plane. This level
plane does two things. It establishes the elevation of the top of the foundation,
and it ensures that measurements made along lines in that plane are accurate.
The top of the first batter board is set at the
elevation for the top of the foundation, 15 in.
below the level line shot by the instrument.
Set more batter boards
in line with the two
long walls 15 in. below
the level line.
Don’t install batter boards
for the side walls until after
the excavator finishes.
Level plane
STEP 3 lay out a 24-ft. by 40-ft. rectangle in the level plane
3 Plumb up from the corner stake, and
use a felt-tipped pen to mark the string.
1 Set a string on the batter boards directly above the corner
stakes. This string marks the outside edge of one of the walls.
Corner stake
2 Set a second
string on the other
pair of batter
boards; carefully
adjust this string
until it’s parallel to
and exactly 24 ft.
away from the first
string. This string
represents the
outside edge of the
other long wall.
4 Use geometry to cal-
culate the hypotenuse
of a right triangle with
an Altitude of 24 and
a Base of 40. Plugging
the numbers into the
Pythagorean Theorem,
the math is:
H = √24² + 40²
H = √576 + 1,600
H = √2,176
H = 46.648
5 Use a tape laid out in the engineer’s scale to pull 46.648
diagonally across from the two marks on the first string, and
mark the third and fourth corners on the second string.
Corner stake
A = 24
B = 40
H = 46.648
1
Plumb up from the corner stake, and
4 Use geometry to cal-
Use geometry to cal-

STEP 4 record the layout on the batter boards
According to the plan, the foundation walls are 8 in. wide and the footings
are 16 in. wide. The footings must be centered under the walls. Around the
outside of the footing, you need an additional 6 in. or 8 in. for a drain system.
To accommodate the footing and the drain system, a 24-in.-wide footing
trench is planned.
8-in. foundation walls
16-in. footings
centered under
walls
Lay out both sides of the
foundation walls, both sides
of the footings, and the extra
8 in. for the drain system on
the batter boards.
Trench
8-in. foundation walls
16-in. footings centered
under walls
Allow 6 in.
or 8 in. for a
drain.
Trench
Measure the distance from the face of each batter
board to the corner mark on the string, and record
this measurement on the face of the batter board.
STEP 5 Mark the ground for the footing dig
1 To mark the trench for the long
walls, set up lines on the two outside
marks on the batter boards. Transfer
these locations to the ground with a
level, a plumb bob, or a laser.
2 To mark the trench for the side
walls, transfer the locations of the
four corners from the string to the
ground. Measure out 12 in. in both
directions.
3 Set strings just above the ground at
these locations, and mark the ground
with lime, mortar, or spray paint.
Transfer loca-
tions to the
ground.
Measure 12 in. in
both directions. Mark the
ground along
the strings.

STEP 6 dig the footing to the right depth
1 The bottom of the footing has to be at least 24 in. deep
to get it below the frost line. Also, because the specified
footing is 8 in. thick and the block courses will each be
8 in. high, the distance between the top of the founda-
tion and the bottom of the footing has to be evenly
divisible by 8 in.
2 In this example, you have scheduled a backhoe to dig
the footing the day after the layout, which means you’ve
had to move the leveling instrument. For the excavation
of the footing, you set it up again; this time it projects a
level line that’s 93⁄4 in. above the top of foundation.
The footing
needs to be
at least 24 in.
below the
frost line.
70 in. below the top
of the foundation
line is not divisible
by 8 in.
Measure from the strings on the
batter boards to find the lowest
corner—in this example, 46 in.—
below the top of the foundation.
Increasing the trench depth to
72 in. places the footing below
the frost line and conforms to
the 8-in. modular scheme.
The depth of the footing will be
813⁄4 in. (72 + 93⁄4) below the line shot
by the instrument.
The new level line is 93⁄4 in.
above the proposed
foundation top.
3 Remove the strings on the batter board to make room
for the backhoe. To get the trench in the right place, the
excavator digs to the lines you’ve made on the ground.
Check the depth using the
leveling instrument and a rod
marked at 813⁄4 in.
When the trench gets a little more than
32 in. below the surface, you can step the
32 in. below the surface, you can step the
depth up 8 in. From this point, make the
bottom 733⁄
3⁄
3 4
⁄4
⁄ in. (813⁄
3⁄
3 4
⁄4
⁄ – 8 = 733⁄
3⁄
3 4
⁄4
⁄ ) from the
line shot by the instrument.
1
1

STEP 7 finish the trench by hand
STEP 8 get ready for the pour
7 Lay out and dig
footings for piers. They
don’t have to be below
the frost line but should
conform to the 8-in.
modular scheme men-
tioned on p. 29.
1 After the excavator finishes, install
batter boards for the footing side walls.
Attach new strings on the long wall
batter boards. Measure the distance
recorded on the face of the batter
board to mark one of the corners. 2 Measure 40 ft. down the string,
and mark the second corner.
3 Pull the 46.648-ft.
diagonals to lay out
the third and fourth
corners.
4 Pull strings
through the corner
marks to the side
batter boards, and
mark the batter
boards where the
strings cross them.
Mark the foundation wall.
5 Set strings on the
inside-of-trench and
outside-of-trench
marks on the batter
boards. Level down
from the strings to
see how well the
trench conforms
to the layout. Use
shovels to straighten
out the sides of the
trench and remove
any loose dirt from
the bottom.
Mark both sides
of the trench.
6 Measure the elevation of the bottom of the
footing against the strings. It should be 72 in.
in the lower area and 64 in. in the upper area.
Where the distance is less than these, dig to the
target distances. Be careful not to dig too deep.
1 Set lines on the marks for the
outside of the footing on the
batter boards.
3 Use 2x8s to form
the outside of the
footings.
2 Transfer these
locations to the
bottom of the trench
to get the forms in
the right place.
4 As you install the forms, measure up to the lines
to make sure you get the forms at the right eleva-
tion. The tops of the forms have to be at a height
that conforms to the 8-in. modular scheme. The
footings for the piers don’t require forms.
Set the rebar for the
footings as required by
your local code and the
specs on the plans.

1
STEP 10 lay out the walls
After the concrete hardens, set lines on the batter boards and use a level,
plumb bob, or laser to transfer the locations of the walls to the top of the foot-
ing. Snap chalklines on the concrete to lay out the walls. Techniques for laying
the blocks up to the line will be discussed in the final section of this chapter.
Before beginning the block work, make a quick checklist of the things to
either allow for or include in the walls:
• Drainpipe to allow moisture inside the crawlspace to go through the wall
and into the perimeter drain system
• Access door
• Opening for an HVAC duct
• Foundation vents
• Beam pockets
• Anchors to bolt the frame to the foundation
STEP 9 Pour the footing
Before the concrete truck arrives, set up the leveling instrument and measure
the difference in elevation between the top of the batter boards and the line
shot by the instrument. Add the amount—in 8-in. increments—that you need
to go down to get the tops of the pier footings at the right height.
Measure down from
the level line projected
by the instrument to
pour the piers to the
correct elevation.
Inside the footing
trench, pour the
concrete even with
the top of the forms.
72 in.
64 in.
48 in. Line shot by
leveling instrument
Cave-ins:
A Deadly Hazard
The sides of trenches and
basement excavations can
collapse without warning. If a
person is buried over his head
in such a collapse, the chances
of survival are less than one in
ten. There are four things you
can do to reduce the chance of
a deadly cave-in:
• Any time you excavate
an opening for a basement,
make sure you dig at least
4 ft. beyond the footprint of
the house; this keeps workers
away from the deadly perim-
eter of the excavation.
• Slope the sides of the
excavation away from the
opening.
• Pile the spoils from a trench
excavation at least 2 ft. back
from the edge.
• Use a shoring system for
deep trenches. For more on
trenching safety, go to this
OSHA site: http://www.osha.
gov/SLTC/trenchingexcavation/
construction.html
sAfety first

Building outside the Box
Although a rectangular ﬂ
oor plan has the advantages of speed and
economy, designers and homeowners often desire more complicated
shapes. The most common method of breaking out from the four
walls of a rectangular house is to add more rectangles in the form
of ells, wings, and insets. There are many occasions, however, when
designers abandon the rectangle altogether and draw up buildings or
parts of buildings with obtuse or acute angles or curved walls.
To lay out these different shapes, follow the same basic sequence
that has just been described. First, lay out a level plane at either the
top-of-foundation or the top-of-footing elevation. Then lay out the
shape within that plane.
Adding rectangles to rectangles
To lay out these foundations, start by laying out the main rectangle and then
add more batter boards or forms to lay out the additional rectangles. Use
geometry to get the walls of the secondary rectangles square to the primary
rectangle.
Main rectangle
Added
rectangle
Parallel lines
Parallel lines Parallel lines
Added
rectangle
Added
rectangle
Equal diagonals
Batter board

1
Moving away from the right angle
Once in a while, designers draw up buildings with walls that are not square to
one another. To lay out these acute (less than 90º) or obtuse (more than 90°)
angles, you can either use a precise surveying instrument or geometry. The
designer should specify the point from which to pull the measurement as well
as the exact dimensions of both the parallel line and the diagonal measure-
ment. If the angle is simply specified in degrees, however, it’s up to you to
calculate the dimensions of a right triangle that corresponds to the degrees
specified. To make these calculations, use the techniques described in
“Working with Right Triangles” on p. 19.
2 From a specified point,
pull a specified dimension
diagonally across the layout
and mark the parallel line
with a felt-tipped pen.
2 After loosening the
clamp on the horizontal
scale, point it so that it
is shooting parallel to
the line.
3 Set the horizontal scale to
the zero mark. Turn the instru-
ment to the desire angle.
• SURVEYING INSTRUMENT • GEOMETRY
3 Set up batter
boards and
string that runs
directly across
the marks. This
string represents
the outside of
the angled wall.
1 Build batter boards at the
correct elevation, and affix a
line a set distance from and
parallel to one of the walls on
the main rectangle.
1 Set the instrument
directly over a point on a
base line of your layout.
4 Transfer the line shot by the
instrument down to the batter
board and mark that point.
laying out curved foundations
Curved foundations are usually drawn as circles or seg-
ments of circles. The first step in laying out a circular,
semicircular, or arced foundation is to establish a pivot
point. The location of this point should be specified in the
plans. Lay out this point at the desired elevation, using a
stake or a batter board. Once you’ve established the pivot
point, create a beam compass to serve as the radii needed
to lay out the parts of the foundation. On the beam com-
pass, measure and mark the parts of the foundation out
from the pivot point. These measurements include the dis-
tances from the pivot point to: the inside and outside of
the footing trench; the inside and outside of the concrete
footing; the inside and outside of the foundation wall;
and the center of the foundation wall.
After setting up a form or
batter board to hold the beam
level, swing the compass.
You can make the
beam compass on
site, using a strip of
wood and a nail for
the pivot.
Mark the beam
compass with
foundation
dimensions.
Batter boards
are at the same
elevation.

Building foundation walls
There are four different systems used for foundation walls. The two
most common are masonry (mainly concrete blocks) and poured
concrete. An emerging system uses insulating concrete forms, or
ICFs (beyond the scope of this book). A fourth system, which is used
to save money, is the permanent wood foundation, or PWF.
concrete Block
Masonry consists of relatively small building units that are made
from mineral substances (rock, clay, sand, portland cement, etc.)
These units are usually assembled by hand into walls or other struc-
tures using cement-based mortar. There are many types of masonry
units, including natural and man-made stone, structural clay tile,
clay brick, concrete block, terra-cotta, and glass block.
The most common masonry units for foundations, however, are
clay bricks and concrete blocks. These units can be combined into
a composite wall, and in some parts of the United States brick-and-
block foundations are very popular. In these walls, the bricks are on
the outside and, although they are part of the structure, they are
used mainly for aesthetic reasons.
Foundations built with concrete blocks only, however, are more
common than brick-and-block. Because they are the most prevalent,
this section will focus mainly on concrete block foundations.
Concrete
blocks
Poured
concrete
Permanent wood
foundation
Concrete block
Clay brick
Insulating concrete
forms
blocks concrete foundation
forms
Concrete block
Clay brick
Building foundation walls
There are four different systems used for foundation walls. The two
most common are masonry (mainly concrete blocks) and poured
concrete. An emerging system uses insulating concrete forms, or
ICFs (beyond the scope of this book). A fourth system, which is used
to save money, is the permanent wood foundation, or PWF.
concrete Block
clay brick, concrete block, terra-cotta, and glass block.
the outside and, although they are part of the structure, they are
used mainly for aesthetic reasons.
Foundations built with concrete blocks only, however, are more
common than brick-and-block. Because they are the most prevalent,
this section will focus mainly on concrete block foundations.
Concrete
blocks
Poured
concrete
Permanent wood
foundation
Concrete block
Clay brick
Insulating concrete
forms

2
strengths and weaknesses of masonry
Masonry alone typically has far more compressive strength than is necessary to
support the weight of the house. Its main weakness is in its tensile strength. For
this reason, unreinforced masonry foundations sometimes fail due to the lateral
pressures imposed by the soil. To avoid this kind of failure, steel-reinforced foun-
dations are often specified by designers or required by code.
Being comprised of mineral products, masonry fares well in direct contact
with the soil. It’s not an attractive habitat for insects and other pests and, more
important, it’s not a source of food for termites and rot-producing fungi.
Modular layout
Modern bricks and blocks are designed to fit a layout scheme based on a 4-in.
module. The units themselves are slightly less than the targeted module. This
shortfall allows for the thickness of an ideal mortar joint, which is 3⁄8 in. (The
technical name for a concrete block is concrete masonry unit, which is often
designated as a CMU.)
Three standard modular bricks plus three bed joints (horizontal joints), for
example, are 8 in. high. One standard block plus one bed joint is 8 in. high.
This dimensional compatibility makes it easy to combine brick and block in the
same wall.
For block foundations, the layout usually starts at a top line and is mea-
sured down in 8-in. increments. (Once in a while, the plan calls for a 4-in. block
at the top of the wall; in these cases, the layout has to include one 4-in. incre-
ment in addition to the 8-in. increments.)
On many freestanding structures, an inch or two variance in the final eleva-
tion of the top of the foundation is not a critical issue. On some jobs, such as
additions to existing houses, the top of the foundation has to end precisely at
a predetermined elevation. In these cases, the distance between the top of the
footing and the top-of-foundation line is critical. Great care should be taken,
therefore, to pour the footing at an elevation below the line that’s evenly
divisible by 4 in. or 8 in.
Horizontal rebar
Vertical rebar
Three standard modular
bricks plus three bed joints
equal one standard block
plus one bed joint. This
equals 8 in. high.
Modular layout
Modern bricks and blocks are designed to fit a layout scheme based on a 4-in.
module. The units themselves are slightly less than the targeted module. This
shortfall allows for the thickness of an ideal mortar joint, which is 3⁄8 in. (The
technical name for a concrete block is concrete masonry unit, which is often
designated as a CMU.)
Three standard modular bricks plus three bed joints (horizontal joints), for
example, are 8 in. high. One standard block plus one bed joint is 8 in. high.
This dimensional compatibility makes it easy to combine brick and block in the
same wall.
For block foundations, the layout usually starts at a top line and is mea-
sured down in 8-in. increments. (Once in a while, the plan calls for a 4-in. block
at the top of the wall; in these cases, the layout has to include one 4-in. incre-
ment in addition to the 8-in. increments.)
On many freestanding structures, an inch or two variance in the final eleva-
tion of the top of the foundation is not a critical issue. On some jobs, such as
additions to existing houses, the top of the foundation has to end precisely at
a predetermined elevation. In these cases, the distance between the top of the
footing and the top-of-foundation line is critical. Great care should be taken,
therefore, to pour the footing at an elevation below the line that’s evenly
divisible by 4 in. or 8 in.
Horizontal rebar
Vertical rebar
Three standard modular
bricks plus three bed joints
equal one standard block
plus one bed joint. This
equals 8 in. high.
1
Horizontal rebar
Horizontal rebar
Horizontal rebar
Vertical rebar
Vertical rebar
Vertical rebar

unit spacing along the length of the wall
The lengths of masonry units also fit into a 4-in. modular scheme. One brick
with one head joint (vertical joint) is 8 in. long. One block with one head joint
is 16 in. long. Similarly, the dimensions of the widths of these units also fit the
modular scheme. A brick with a joint is 4 in. wide; a block with a joint is 8 in.
wide. This ensures that the joints of each course are offset by half the length of
the unit from the course below when you build corners.
When you build corners for any masonry wall, it’s important to make sure
you maintain the correct bonding pattern. After you build the first corner of a
foundation, for example, you have to measure or set the units in place dry to
determine which direction to place the first unit in the second corner.
fudging the layout
Although the 4-in. and 8-in. module
is the rule in masonry, there is a little
wiggle room. The courses can be
expanded or contracted slightly by
adjusting the thickness of the mortar
joints. Most building codes, how-
ever, limit the amount that mortar
joints can vary. The International
Residential Code, for example, speci-
fies that bed joints for a masonry
foundation must be between 3⁄8 in.
and 1⁄2 in. thick. The one exception to
this rule is that the bed joint on the
footing can be up to 3⁄4 in. thick. This
means that as much as 13⁄8 in. can be
gained in a foundation that’s nine
block courses high (1⁄8 in. × 8 =
1 + 3⁄8 in. = 13⁄8 in.).
One brick with one head
joint is 8 in. long.
One block with one
head joint is 16 in. long.
Dividing space (136 in.) by 16 in. (block plus
head joint) equals 81⁄2 blocks.
In this example, the end block will need
to be turned in line with the other wall.
72 in. (nine courses with
3⁄8-in. bed joints)
733⁄8 in. (first-course bed joint
of 3⁄4 in. plus nine courses
with 1⁄2-in. bed joints)

1
Building Block Corners
Assuming that the distance between the top of the footing and the top-of-
foundation line is correct, there are two basic ways to lay the units up to the
top-of-foundation line: a level string line or a story pole. Story poles are avail-
able from tool manufacturers or can be fabricated on site using steel tubing or
straight pieces of lumber.
• LEVEL STRING LINE METHOD
2 Build the corner and mea-
sure the distance from the top
of each course to the string.
1 Transfer the line
down to the top of
the footing and lay
up a corner lead.
3 String line at
foundation top
Corner lead
• STORY POLE METHOD 1
3 Anchor the pole
into the ground.
4 Attach the pole with a block
of wood nailed to the footing
form or with case-hardened nails
driven into the concrete footing.
1 Attach a single pole
precisely on the corner,
and brace the top plumb
in both directions.
2 Brace the top
with C-clamps
or screws.
• STORY POLE METHOD 2
2 Nail the story
poles to the foot-
ing form.
1 Attach and plumb
two offset story poles
for each corner.
• STORY POLE IN CRAWLSPACE
2 Switch to story poles
attached to the batter
boards above grade.
1 Use a level to
build the corner
below grade.

laying blocks to a line
After laying up the corners or set-
ting up story poles, attach a line from
corner to corner to serve as a guide
for laying blocks along the wall.
Use line blocks to attach the string
(see “Setting Up a Line Quickly and
Accurately” on pp. 24–25). Make sure
that the string has enough tension to
keep it from sagging in the middle.
Keep a tiny space, about the thickness
of the string, between the block and
the line. Doing this prevents the block
from pushing the string out of line.
Mortar
Mortar is a generic term that describes any products used to bond masonry
units together. The mortar required for foundations is typically Type S or
Type M mortar. Mortar types are based on compressive strength, which is
determined by the percentage of portland cement in the cementitious material
in the mortar. Check with your local building official to see what type is
required in your area. Although either of these types can be made by mixing
portland cement and mason’s lime, the most common way to achieve either
type is by using masonry cement.
1 Set the string
even with the top
of the block at each
corner, then lay the
blocks to the line.
2 After each course, move the line up
one course and repeat the process.
4 Good, workable mortar is wet
but not soupy. It can be piled up
with a trowel but yields readily
when you place a block on it.
1 Mix 3 parts sand . . . 2 . . . and
1 part
masonry
cement.
3 Add water gradually
and continue mixing
until the mortar is soft
and mushy.
One way to proportion the dry ingredients of
mortar is to use common, measured containers.
1 Fill three 5-gal. dry-
wall buckets with sand.
2 Fill one 5-gal.
drywall bucket with
masonry cement.
3 Add water gradually,
and continue mixing until
the mortar is soft and
mushy. Four buckets will
make a wheelbarrowful
of mortar.

1
troweling techniques
Wielding a trowel is a physical skill that can be acquired only through
practice. Although there is no substitute for picking up a trowel and
having at it, here are a few basic techniques to get you started.
1 Pile mortar into a mound
in a mortar pan.
2 Scoop a full
but manageable
trowelful.
3 With the fully loaded
trowel a few inches above
the footing, give the
trowel a slight downward
tilt. Without stopping,
rotate your wrist and pull
the trowel.
4 The motion is like
the pull stroke when
you’re working with a
handsaw.
• TROWELING THE FIRST COURSE
• TROWELING BLOCKS
To butter the end of a block (or brick), you have to turn the
trowel over. The challenge is to keep the mortar from slid-
ing off the overturned trowel.
1 Pick up half a
trowelful.
2 With the mortar
facing up, thrust the
trowel straight down
and stop it abruptly.
3 With the mortar
flattened against the
trowel, it stays put as
you butter the ends
of the block.
Maximize the Bond
In addition to having com-
pressive strength, mortar has
to bond the masonry units
together tenaciously. To maxi-
mize bond, the units should
be dry and the mortar should
be as wet as possible and still
have enough body to sup-
port the weight of the units.
When mortar is spread on the
surface of a dry, porous unit,
the mortar is sucked into the
pores, creating a mechanical
as well as chemical bond.
There is an enduring myth
that masons should soak
units before laying them in
a wall. In most cases, this is
false. Most clay bricks and
all concrete blocks should be
kept dry before laying them
in a wall. On rare occasions,
unusually porous and dry clay
bricks have an excessively
high initial rate of absorption
(IRA). These bricks suck the
moisture out of the mortar at
such a rate that the mortar
dries almost immediately. This
makes them difficult to work
with and can have a nega-
tive effect on the bond. In
these cases, the bricks should
be wetted, then allowed to
surface-dry before they’re set
in the wall. Wet masonry units
should never be laid in a wall.
toP tiP

rebar set in footing
Block walls are often reinforced with steel and grout. The
design should be drawn up by an engineer, or follow the
specifications of the building code in your area. Rebar
should be laid out so that it emerges from the footing
in the center of the block cores. After the footing pour,
builders sometimes bend incorrectly placed rebar to get it
in line with the block core. This practice compromises the
structural integrity of the system and should be avoided.
It’s far better to lay out the pieces of steel correctly prior
to the footing pour.
create a cleanout
It is important to keep the footing around the verti-
cal rebar clear of mortar droppings so the cavity can be
completely filled with grout later. To ensure that the
footing around the vertical rebar remains clean as you lay
up the wall, you need to cut a “cleanout,” a 4-in. by 4-in.
opening in the first block that goes over the rebar. As
the blocks are laid up, you can reach in and clean out the
droppings around the rebar several times a day.
As the blocks are laid up, keep the rebar in the center
of the core. Wire rebar positioners are available for
this purpose.
grout block cavities
The grout must bond the masonry units and the rebar
together. To achieve this bond, grout is much richer in
portland cement than concrete and it has much more
water. Because grout must fill the block cavities com-
pletely, pea gravel is often specified as the coarse aggre-
gate. Structural engineers often specify the proportions
for the grout on commercial masonry jobs. For residential
projects, however, you can usually get an acceptable mix
by conferring with your concrete supplier.
Rebar tied to
horizontal rebar
set in footing
prior to pour
Rebar
Grout
Footing
Cleanout
Rebar positioner Rebar

Poured concrete
Concrete is made of four basic ingredients: water, portland cement,
sand, and coarse aggregate (usually gravel or crushed stone). In a
typical batch of wet concrete, only about 12% of the mix consists of
portland cement. Most of the material is aggregate; sand comprises
about 28% of the mix, while gravel or crushed stone makes up 44%
of the total volume. The ﬁ
nal ingredient, water, varies considerably
from batch to batch. Ideally, the water content should be about 15%
of the volume. On many jobs, air is also mixed into the concrete,
typically accounting for about 6% of the volume.
When water is mixed with the dry ingredients, a chemical reac-
tion in the portland cement, called hydration, takes place. Hydration
causes the most important constituents of the cement, the calcium
silicates, to dissolve and then gradually reform as calcium silicate
hydrate and calcium hydroxide. As hydration proceeds, these newly
formed compounds harden and bond to each other and to the grains
of sand and stones that they surround. Meanwhile, if air-entraining
chemicals are mixed in, billions of microscopic air pockets per cubic
yard are formed. After air-entrained concrete is fully cured, it stands
up to freezing temperatures much better than untreated concrete.
The tiny chambers relieve internal pressure on the concrete by pro-
viding space for the water to expand into when it freezes.
strengths and weaknesses of concrete
Because the tools and skills required
for installing concrete and unit
masonry are so different, they are
considered separate branches of
the building industry. The materials,
however, are often indistinguish-
able. The ingredients of grout, for
example, are the same as those in
concrete. Concrete blocks are made
from concrete. A stone wall often
consists of the same materials as are
found in concrete: stone, sand, and
portland cement. And, while brick is
made of a different material (clay),
both brick and concrete are mineral
substances with great compressive
strength.
Concrete is often
reinforced with steel.
Because it is made from
mineral products, concrete
performs well in contact
with the ground.
Unreinforced concrete is relatively weak
in tensile strength.
Before the Truck
Comes
The trucks used to deliver
concrete and blocks are often
tall enough to hit overhead
power lines. When they do,
they can electrocute anyone
who touches any metal part of
the truck. Always reconnoiter
the route the truck will follow
and, if a line poses a hazard,
come up with an alternate
route or have the line discon-
nected by the power company.
sAfety first
1

water and concrete
Ready-mixed concrete is proportioned at the concrete plant and delivered by
truck ready to place. The amount of water added to the mix at the plant is
specified by the buyer in terms of “slump” (see “Slump Test” above). The lower
the slump, the less water added and the stiffer the mix. Concrete with a 2-in.
slump, for example, is so stiff that it has to be pulled down the chute of the
truck and physically pulled into place and packed into forms to avoid honey-
combs (voids). Concrete with a 5-in. slump, on the other hand, flows down the
chute, spreads out, and fills forms easily.
Slump has a direct impact on the workability of the concrete. Low-slump
concrete is a lot harder to place and finish than high-slump concrete. There is
a tendency, therefore, on the part of the workers in the field to want to add
water to the concrete. Ready-mix trucks carry water for this purpose.
Ready-mix concrete suppliers, however, carefully document the amount
that is added, both at the plant and during the pour. The reason they do this
is because the amount of water mixed into concrete has a direct impact on the
strength and durability of the finished product.
The amount of water needed to cause hydration is surprisingly small. All
the dry ingredients have to be thoroughly dampened but they don’t need
Slump Test
To measure the consistency of wet
concrete, engineers have developed
the slump test. Although residential
builders rarely do slump tests,
they use a given “slump” to
indicate how much water they
want mixed in when they order
concrete. Concrete with a 4-in.
slump is typical for residential work.
1 Fill a cone-shaped
container of specified
proportions with
concrete.
2 Flip the con-
tainer. Slowly
lift the cone off
the concrete.
3 Measure how much
the cone of concrete sags.
tools & techniQues
Ready-mixed concrete is proportioned at the concrete plant and delivered by
truck ready to place. The amount of water added to the mix at the plant is
specified by the buyer in terms of “slump” (see “Slump Test” above). The lower
the slump, the less water added and the stiffer the mix. Concrete with a 2-in.
slump, for example, is so stiff that it has to be pulled down the chute of the
truck and physically pulled into place and packed into forms to avoid honey-
combs (voids). Concrete with a 5-in. slump, on the other hand, flows down the
Slump has a direct impact on the workability of the concrete. Low-slump
concrete is a lot harder to place and finish than high-slump concrete. There is
a tendency, therefore, on the part of the workers in the field to want to add
Ready-mix concrete suppliers, however, carefully document the amount
that is added, both at the plant and during the pour. The reason they do this

to be saturated with water. Every drop of water that is not consumed by the
hydration process has to exit the concrete via evaporation.
It is this evaporating water that causes problems. Above the amount neces-
sary for hydration, each added gallon of water per cubic yard decreases the
compressive strength of the concrete 200 to 300 psi (pounds per square inch)
and increases shrinkage potential about 10%. Furthermore, as the water-to-
cement ratio climbs, the durability of the concrete declines; problems such as
cracks, spalling, and freeze/thaw deterioration are directly related to the water
content in concrete.
Since excessive water can have a negative effect on the long-term perfor-
mance of the concrete, builders and/or owners should not leave the issue of
water content entirely in the hands of those who place the concrete. Because
adding water makes their job easier, leaving the issue of slump in the hands
of the concrete crew is a little like asking the fox to guard the hen house. The
slump of the concrete should be discussed and agreed upon prior to the pour
and, after the truck arrives, strict limits should be placed on how much water
can be added. If you’re not present at the pour, you can determine how much
water was added by reviewing the documentation of the ready-mix supplier.
curing concrete
During hydration, cement and water are consumed as a new product—the
hardened concrete—is born. Although concrete is usually hard enough to walk
on within a few hours, it continues to hydrate long after it initially sets and it
does not achieve full strength for months or even years. The most important
period for hydration, however, is the first week after the concrete is poured. It
is during this critical period that hydration proceeds most rapidly. Because con-
crete attains about half of its ultimate strength in this first crucial week, water
within the concrete must not be allowed to evaporate completely or to freeze.
Because water must be present for hydration to occur, you should take
measures to keep the water within the concrete for several days. This process,
called curing, should not be confused with the initial mixing of water into
concrete. As noted above, hydration does not require very much water, and
you should use water sparingly when making concrete. Once the concrete is
mixed and poured, however, you need to keep that water within the concrete
Keep forms in place
for several days
and seal the top.
Cover the concrete with damp
burlap. Make sure the burlap
stays damp for several days.
1

for as long as possible. In other words, the strongest concrete is made with as
little water as possible, retained inside the concrete for as long as possible.
There are two basic ways to cure concrete. The first is to seal the water
inside the concrete. On flat work, such as a basement floor, you can cover the
floor with plastic sheets or spray on a special waterproof coating called curing
compound. Do this several hours after the concrete has been finished and
achieved its initial set. Make sure you seal up the edges of the plastic sheets;
one way to do this is to place sand on top of the plastic around the perimeter
of the slab. On vertical work, such as foundation walls, the moisture can be
retained by keeping the forms in place for several days and just sealing the
top, exposed edge (see the drawing at left on p. 43).
The second basic strategy for curing concrete is to keep the exposed surface
of the concrete damp. One way to do this is to cover the concrete with damp
burlap. Make sure the burlap stays damp for several days.
forming concrete
Wet concrete weighs more than 4,000 lb. per cubic yard. When first mixed,
it’s an amorphous blob that slumps and spreads out when poured. (Although
the amount of slump varies with the percentage of water in the mix, it almost
always has some slump.) When you pour this material into a form, the form has
to contain the slump of the wet concrete. The concrete presses down and out,
exerting tremendous pressure on the inside walls of the forms. This pressure
can force forms to bulge out or fail catastrophically, like a burst dam.
When you build forms for footings or foundation walls, you have to build
them strong enough to contain this pressure. This pressure grows substantially
with the height of the form and the quantity of concrete poured. Flatwork
(sidewalks, floors, driveways, etc.), for example, sometimes requires several
For footings 8 in. to 12 in.
tall and slab-on-grade
foundations, use 11⁄2-in.-
thick lumber for the forms.
Brace the stakes and tops of forms
to keep them from spreading.
2×4s or 2×6s are nailed to small stakes
driven into the ground every 4 ft.

Plywood and 2×4 forms
must be braced carefully
to keep the bottoms from
spreading.
yards of concrete. But, because the forms are usually just 4 in. to 6 in. high, the
thrusting forces of the concrete in these pours are relatively small. Typically, the
forms for these structures are made out of 2×4s or 2×6s nailed to small stakes
driven into the ground every 4 ft. or so.
When the forms are 8 in. to 12 in. tall, as is the case for some footings and
slab-on-grade foundations, 11⁄2-in.-thick lumber can still be used. However, the
stakes have to be braced and the tops of the forms have to be connected to
keep them from spreading.
Forms for walls 16 in. to 24 in. high typically require 4-in.-thick panels built
like the exterior walls of a house. These forms, built out of 2×4s and plywood,
must be braced carefully. To keep the bottoms from spreading, carpenters
often lay steel strapping on the footing, then wrap it up the outside of the
forms and nail it securely.
Forms for foundation walls taller than 24 in. can be erected with prefabri-
cated panels, or they can be built on site with plywood and studs. Because of
the tremendous pressure of the concrete, steel ties must be used to keep the
walls from spreading, buckling, or blowing out altogether. If you need to form
walls higher than 24 in., consider using a foundation subcontractor. He’ll have
the forms, the hardware, and the experience to build a form that can contain
the pressure of the concrete.
Cubic Inches
in a Cubic Yard
The number 46,656 is not easy
to remember and there’s no
reason to do so. A yard is 36 in.
and a cubic yard is 36 × 36 × 36,
which is 46,656. Anytime you
need this number for estimat-
ing volume, just do the multi-
plication and write it down.
toP tiP
1

estimating concrete
In the United States, ready-mix concrete is sold by the cubic yard. To estimate
the amount needed for a pour, carefully measure the length, width, and depth
of the area enclosed by the forms. After converting these measurements to a
single measuring unit—usually feet or inches—multiply the length × the width
× the depth to arrive at the volume in cubic feet or cubic inches. If you have
the volume in cubic feet, divide by 27 (the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard)
to convert to cubic yards. If you have the volume in cubic inches, divide by
46,656 (the number of cubic inches in a cubic yard) to convert to cubic yards. To
make sure you don’t end up just short of concrete at the end of the pour, add
about 10% for footings and 5% for walls. These conversions can be simplified
by using a construction calculator.
Aligning and bracing the forms
When forming foundation walls, the layout often takes place at the footing
level. After snapping chalklines on the top of the footing, set the bottoms of
the forms on the lines, then brace them plumb. To ensure that the walls end
up straight, brace the corner panels plumb first, then set up a string stretching
from corner to corner. Brace the intermediate panels to the string. Anchor the
bottom of the braces to stakes driven into the ground, and attach the tops of
the braces to the panels with screws or nails.
Set the bottoms
of the forms on
snapped lines, then
brace them plumb.
Anchor the braces to
stakes driven into the
ground and attach the
tops to the panels.

1
Admixtures
Concrete suppliers often offer chemical admixtures that can improve the work-
ability or enhance the performance of concrete. The most common of these are
air-entrainment admixtures. Other admixtures include chemicals that inhibit
corrosion, reduce alkali-silica reaction, add bonding and damp-proofing
properties, and provide coloring. Retarding admixtures are used in hot weather
to slow down the setting rate of concrete. Accelerating admixtures are used
in cold weather to increase the rate at which concrete gains strength. This
means that the concrete has to be protected from freezing temperatures for a
shorter period.
Plasticizing admixtures make low-to-normal slump concrete more fluid
without adding more water. This makes the concrete easier to place but
doesn’t weaken it. This has given rise to a new use of the word “slump.” You
can now order concrete with a “4-in. slump, plasticized to a 6-in. slump.” The
4-in. slump is the slump created by the water content and the additional 2 in.
of slump is created by the admixture.
Plasticizing admixtures work great for vertical pours, but they can cause
problems for flat pours. This is because the effects of the plasticizing chemicals
are temporary, lasting 30 to 60 minutes. When they wear off, the surface of the
concrete can harden rather suddenly, making finishing difficult.
When to Hire a Concrete Subcontractor
Because of the stakes involved,
builders often use concrete subcon-
tractors. For large flat pours, such
as a basement floor, experienced
concrete masons can quickly pull
the concrete flat, cut it level with a
straightedge (often called a screed),
and float the surface. Speed is of the
essence, especially in hot weather.
Concrete crews that specialize in
flat work not only get the concrete
placed and floated quickly but
also have the skills and equipment
to achieve very smooth finished
surfaces.
Large vertical pours, such as
basement walls, require an enor-
mous amount of concrete. Crews
that specialize in basement walls
have reusable manufactured forms
that are engineered to contain the
concrete. They have the experience
to see how to bring in a truck close
to the forms or to realize when
they’re going to need to rent a con-
crete pump. They’ve also developed
the physical skills and the brawn
needed to handle a chute or a hose
full of concrete.
Large concrete pours are often
best left to specialists. Waiting for
a subcontractor, however, presents
its own set of problems. After you
dig, form, and install steel in a
footing, for example, you shouldn’t
delay the pour. If it rains and the
footing gets flooded, you’ll have to
spend a lot more time getting the
footing dry and removing silt that
has washed into the trench.
If you’re a custom builder or a
remodeling contractor, it pays to be
able to do small to medium pours
“in house.” The key is to know
what your crew can handle. This is
something that you can determine
only gradually, through experience.
Starting with small pours, you can
gradually develop the skills, acquire
the tools, and gain the confidence
needed for larger pours.
way s o f w o r k i n g
building foundations 47

Permanent wood foundations, or PWFs, have been
used in the United States since the 1960s. While
these foundations require careful detailing, they
can be built by any carpentry crew using standard
framing techniques.
The footings for these foundations are typically
8 in. of compacted gravel in a 16-in.-wide trench.
A treated plate (usually a 2×10 or 2×12) is laid fl
at
on this bed of gravel. Then a 2×6 or 2×8 framed
wall, sheathed with treated plywood, is nailed to
the plate.
PWFs are engineered systems and the details
vary according to the type of foundation you’re
building, the soil you encounter, and the design
load of the house. Before starting a PWF, make
sure you know and understand the design, and
check with your local building offi
cial to see what’s
required in your area.
Wood must be rated for
foundations. Types 304 or
314 stainless-steel fasteners
are generally required below
grade. In some jurisdictions,
other types of corrosion-
resistant nail are permitted
above grade.
Permanent wood foundations (Pwfs)
controlling water
Controlling water is an essential part of these systems. First, you
have to drain water from the footings, the base of the wall, and
under the floor. Second, you must add a protective barrier to the
outside of the foundation.
On a sloping lot, use a gravity
drain to move water away
from the house.
Drain water
from the
footing.
Drain conveys water
to daylight.
PWF wall
system
Permanent wood foundations, or PWFs, have been
used in the United States since the 1960s. While
these foundations require careful detailing, they
can be built by any carpentry crew using standard
The footings for these foundations are typically
8 in. of compacted gravel in a 16-in.-wide trench.
A treated plate (usually a 2×10 or 2×12) is laid fl
at
wall, sheathed with treated plywood, is nailed to
PWFs are engineered systems and the details
check with your local building offi
cial to see what’s
Wood must be rated for
foundations. Types 304 or
314 stainless-steel fasteners
are generally required below
grade. In some jurisdictions,
other types of corrosion-
resistant nail are permitted
above grade.
Permanent wood foundations (Pwfs)

Protective barrier
The second part of the process is
a protective barrier on the outside
of the foundation. Because of the
importance of keeping these systems
dry, PWFs are not a good choice in
very wet locations or where there’s
a high water table.
In basements, a concrete slab is
poured inside the walls. This slab
restrains the inward thrust that the
soil exerts against the bottom of
the walls. A treated wood floor, also
built inside the walls, can be used in
lieu of the concrete.
In crawlspace foundations, there
is less imbalanced fill between the
inside and outside of the founda-
tion wall. In these situations, the soil
inside the wall is used to counteract
pressure from the soil along the
outside.
Basements
crawlspace foundations
The framed floor resists
inward pressure.
5 ft. to 7 ft. of soil
presses against the
wall system.
Framing anchors are
often specified for
connections at the stud/
plate and joist/plate.
Floor framing
Poured slab
Soil placed inside
the foundation
12-in.-wide treated
plywood holds the
sheet in place to
protect the top
edge of the plastic.
6-mil plastic sheet
to keep water
from seeping into
the frame
PWF wall
system
PWF wall
system
PWF wall
system
1

50
CHAPTER
2
Framing Floors,
walls, and
ceilings
aFTer comPleTing THe FoUndaTion, builders
should have a level surface 8 in. or more above grade.
Upon this surface, they begin the frame of the house, a
structure that will defi
ne the shape of the house and the
layout of the rooms. Due to the size and complexity of
house frames, this book devotes three chapters to their
construction. This chapter concentrates on ﬂ
oors,
walls, and ceilings. Chapters 3 and 4 will be devoted to
framing roofs.
The Three Functions of the Frame
When you build the frame of a house, you need to do
three things. First and foremost, you have to build a
safe and sound structure. Second, you have to build a
structure that accommodates almost all the subsequent
work on the house. As you build the frame, then, you
must look far into the future and provide for the needs
of plumbers, drywall hangers, siders, fi
nish carpenters,
and other specialty trade contractors. Third, you
should build a structure that meets acceptable
standards of quality.

2
Framing floors, walls, and ceilings 51
Building a Safe and Sound Structure
The primary responsibility of frame carpenters is to build a safe and
durable structure. This aspect of frame carpentry is usually regulated
by local building officials.
Loads
The frame supports both the weight of the building (dead loads) and the loads
added by the inhabitants and the environment (live loads). The dead loads
imposed on the walls of a house include the combined weight of floors, ceil-
ings, and roof structures that bear on them and the weight of all the materi-
als that cover those structures. The live loads include furniture, equipment,
people, wind, snow, and seismic forces.
Both dead and live loads vary from building to building. If a customer wants
to roof her house in slate, for example, the dead load from the roof covering
would be substantially more than if she opts to use asphalt shingles.
The most important live loads are those generated by natural forces.
Because those forces differ according to the climate and topography of the
land, code requirements for frames vary from region to region. Different
codes, in fact, often govern different areas within the same state. It’s essential
to know and understand the code where you build.
Built-in durability
The frame not only has to have the strength to carry and resist loads, but it
also has to endure in an often hostile environment. The two biggest threats to
wood-framed houses are water and fire.
Although the first defenses against rainwater intrusion are the materials
that are later installed on the exterior of the frame, the frame itself contains
built-in features that help the building resist these destructive forces. One basic
built-in feature is the shape of the roof. A pitched roof helps move rainwater
down and off the house. Eaves and rakes provide even more built-in protection
because they keep most of the runoff from the roof away from the outside of
the walls.
Another built-in feature that resists the destructive force of water is the
use of treated wood wherever the wood is attached to masonry or concrete.
Masonry and concrete can absorb water through capillary action, the same
mechanism by which a sponge absorbs water. In hot, humid weather, moisture
from the air also condenses on concrete and masonry surfaces (which often
stay cooler than the ambient temperature). Over time, this moisture can cause
untreated wood to rot or attract termites. Because treated wood does not
deteriorate in the presence of water, it’s required by most building codes in
these locations.
A house is subject to dead loads
and live loads.
A pitched roof provides built-in
protection from water.

The Complete Visual Guide To Building A House.pdf

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The Complete Visual Guide To Building A House.pdf