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Towards sustainable textile manufacturing

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Dr. S. Pervez Abbas
Dr. S. Pervez Abbas

Dr. S. P. Abbas presented on measuring sustainability in the textile manufacturing chain. Life cycle assessment considers environmental impacts from raw materials through production, use and disposal. Key metrics include carbon footprint, water footprint and resource utilization of water, energy and chemicals. Measuring also includes social responsibility assessments. Solutions are complex given lack of a single definition of "sustainable textile" and different environmental impacts of natural versus synthetic fibers across the full lifecycle.

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Towards Sust Towards Sust tainable Textile Manufa acturing Dr r. S. P. Abbas 15 November  2012
for additional inform for additional inform mation contact mation contact Dr. S. P Pervez Abbas pscitn@ @cyber.net.pk
Sustainable  Textiles?
What we are discussing g today? • Sustainability and sus stainable manufacturing • Why suddenly sustain Why suddenly sustain nability is under lime  nability is under lime light? g • Sustainability rating sy ystem • Sustainability in textile chain • Measuring sustainability in textile chain • N l i l ti / B i h New legislation / Buying‐houses requirement i t • Q/A
Sustainable developm ment: It is the developme t th t meets the needs i th d l ent that t th d of the present without compromising the ability of future gen nerations to meet their own needs.
Renewable resource 6 of 42 A substance of economic valu th t A bt f i lue that can be replaced or  b l d replenished in the same amo ount. Some renewable resources h have essentially an endless  supply, such as solar energy, wind energy and geothermal  l h l i d d h l pressure, while other resourcces are considered renewable  even though some time or ef h h f ffort must go into their  ff h renewal, such as wood, oxyge en, leather and fish. Most precious metals are con nsidered renewable as well;  even though they are not nat turally replaced, they can be  recycled because they are no ot destroyed during their  extraction and use. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Resource – rate of use 7 of 42 Fifty years ago, the world was  Fift th l Consumption Discovery consuming 4 billion barrrels of  oil per year and the aver rage  discovery was around 30 discovery was around 30 billion 0 billion. 0 Today we consume 30 billion  Today we consume 30 billion barrels per year and the  discovery rate is approacching 4  billion barrels of crude p billion barrels of crude per year. per year.  p Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 Asi ia newspaper, 4 May 2005, quoted by Rob Hopkins, The Transition Handbook, p. 21
Sustainable Manufacturing Manufacturing
Sustainable manufactu uring 9 of 42 Sustainable manufacturing is defined as the  bl f f h creation of manufacture creation of manufacture products that use ed products that use  ed processes that are; I. non‐polluting, II. conserve energy and natural resources, and  II conserve energy and natural resources and are III. economically sound a and safe for  employees, communi i l ities, and consumers.” i d ” Source: US Department of Commerce definition Sustainable Manufacturing – National Council for Ad dvanced Manufacturing (http://www.nacfam.org/ )  ‐ Definition Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Sustainability 10 of 42 Banned  azo dyes Formaldehyde Liquid metal  CO2 Nickel Hea alth Pollution etc. water Safe working  environment i Minimum wages Working hours Holidays etc. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Our dreams Our dreams Safe environment Clean Air Clean Air Enough water &  Safe & healthy  y electricity food Schools for all  No GM food No GM food children hild Enough food Enough food There is a growing awareness s for Sustainability because  these dreams are in dan nger – and we know it. Our customers also know it.
Sustainable prac Sustainable prac ctice Our commitment exxtends beyond our  company and customers. company and customers Our community and y d environment are  important as well.
Sustainability  u i bili ra ating system ating system
Main rating tools 14 of 42 U.K. and Europe U.K. and Europe Americas Rest of the World Rest of the World BREEAM (inc Eco‐homes) LEED (U.S. & C Canada) Green Star (Australia) The Green Guide to  U.S. DOE (U.S S. Department of  BEAM (Hong Kong Specification Energy) Desig gn Guide (U.S.) Office Scorer WBDG (Whole Building ( LEED (China and India) ( ) Design Guide) (U.S.) ENVEST HOK Sustaina HOK Sustaina Design able Design able Greenmark Guide (U.S.) (Singapore) Sustainability Checklists  ada (Canada BREEAM Cana GBTool (South Africa) (e.g.) SEEDA; BRE) Environmental Impact  Green Globes s (U.S. & Assessment (EIA) Assessment (EIA) Canada) Strategic Environmental Assessment (SEA) Sources: RICS (2007) and Green Globes (2009) Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 International Comparison of Sustainable Rating Tools
Textile industry 15 of 42 The textile industry i Th t til i d t is one of the longest  f th l t and most complicate and most complicate industrial chains ed industrial chains  ed of the manufacturing g industry. It involves actors from h i l f m the agricultural,  i l l chemical fibre, dyes & chemicals manuf.,  chemical fibre dyes & chemicals manuf textile and apparel in pp ndustries, retail and  , services sector, and wwaste treatment. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Textile processing – ma ajor concern  16 of 42 • Mi i i Minimise pollution: ll ti – air water and land air, water and land • Optimise resources Optimise resources – energy, water, chemicals gy, , • Worker safety • Consumer safety and  satisfaction  Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Textile value chain 17 of 42 major ecological & soc cial challenges Water Effluent Energy Chemistry Land Society Cotton cultivation Spinning Weaving/knitting Wet processing Garment making Moderate  Larrge  Very large  No effect effect effe ect effect Source: Otto group 2006 Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Sustainability through h chemical selection 18 of 42 in textile manufacturi ing Measurement of all impact from chemical  usage Air, water and soil/lan Air water and soil/lannd CO2 emission Waste Health Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Parameters – Sustainability mea asurement in wet processing  19 of 42 CO2 VOC’s NO2 SO2 CH4 UFP’s s Emission Water noise Product Textile Dyes &  y Chemicals Solid waste Land and  Textile fiber water  Liquid waste q pollution Energy Energy Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Changing market  dyna amics 20 of 42 • Chi – textile invigorating plan 2009 – 20 China il i i i l 2009 2011 – Energy: 5 % reduction pe year for whole industry Energy: 5 % reduction pe er year for whole industry er – Water consumption lowe ered by 7 % per year – Wastewater discharge lowered by 7 % per year • India – existing & foreseen water shortage • Bangladesh – gas shortage are prevalent • Pakistan shortage of electricity gas and water Pakistan – shortage of electricity, gas and water  already exists  Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 Source: Texworld, New York – Jan. 2012
Reducing water g r consumption  p and saving energy are among   g gy g the highest priorities in the  textile industry today.
Cost analysis of a cotto on t‐shirt 22 of 42 Fiber 70 % Utilities 15  0 % 15 – 20 % Labor 08 – 10 % Dyes & Chemicals 03 – 05 % Biggest potential for  Fiber cost reduction t d ti Utilities Labor Dyes & Chemicals Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Towards sustainable textile manufacturing
Measuring sustainability in  textile e chain
Measuring sustainability – textile manufacturing 25 of 42 Life cycle assessment of textile Lif l t f t tiles Carbon footprint Water footprint Resources utilization Resources utilization Water Energy Chemicals Assessment of Social responsib bility Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Towards sustainable textile manufacturing
What is life cycle asses ssment (LCA)? 27 of 42 • Enables estimation of cumula ative environmental impacts  results from all stages of the product life cycle • A “cradle‐to‐grave” approach “for assessing the environmental  aspects and potential impacts associated with a product by; p p p p y; – compiling an inventory of relevant inputs and outputs of a  system – evaluating the potential en nvironmental impacts associated  with these inputs and outp with these inputs and outp puts – interpreting the results of the inventory and impact phases  in relation to the objective es of the study.” (ISO 14040) Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Textile product lifecycle 28 of 42 Life cycle of a T‐shirt Supply Chain Footprint Product Footprint Raw  Electricity Production Product supply &  Start of  End of  Material transportation  t i product life d lif product life d lif Growing  Spinning Tra ansportation  Washing Disposal cotton Knitting Drying Dyeing Ironing T‐Shirt  p production Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Carbon footprint 29 of 42 Carbon footprint (CF) – also named Carbon  Carbon footprint (CF) also named Carbon profile  is the overall am profile ‐ is the overall am mount of carbon  mount of carbon dioxide (CO2) and other greenhouse gas  (GHG) emissions (e.g. m methane, laughing gas,  etc.) associated with a p product*, along its  supply‐chain and someti l h i d times including from  i l di f use and end‐of‐life reco use and end of life reco overy and disposal.  overy and disposal Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Definition – Water foot tprint (WFP)  30 of 42 Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Solutions 31 of 42 I. The solutions are complex, and made more so by I The solutions are complex, and made more so by  the lack of a definitive “sus stainable” textile. II. It is not as straightforward as “natural fibres are  better than synthetic better than synthetic”. III. When using natural fibres, the energy, water, and  chemical use in cultivation, , production and  consumer use, washing and care needs to be  consumer use, washing and care needs to be considered, as do issues su uch as environmental  damage, and workers expo damage and workers' expo osure to hazardous  osure to hazardous chemicals, dust and fumes. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Chemicals consumed b by textile industry 32 of 42 25 % 75 % 25% worldwide chemical go 25% worldwide chemical go direct or indirect in textile oes direct or indirect in textile  oes industry Chemical consumption  Chemical consumption  synthetics  textiles synthetics textiles cotton textiles cotton textiles Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 110 ‐ 820 g/kg 350 ‐ 1,500 g/kg
Sustainable apparel ind dex 33 of 42 Evaluate the impacts of t the entire life cycle of  apparel products: mater apparel products: materrials, manufacturing,  rials manufacturing p packaging, transportatio g g p on, use, and end of Life. Areas of consideration: Areas of consideration: Water use and quality; Energy use and greenhouse gases; Waste; chemicals and to i it W t h i l d toxicity; and d Social and labor. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Towards sustainable textile manufacturing
New legislation f N l i l ti f for sustainability t i bilit
Impact on textile supply chain
What can we really do? e y
thank th k you for y f your attention!  tt ti !

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Towards sustainable textile manufacturing

  • 1. Towards Sust Towards Sust tainable Textile Manufa acturing Dr r. S. P. Abbas 15 November  2012
  • 2. for additional inform for additional inform mation contact mation contact Dr. S. P Pervez Abbas pscitn@ @cyber.net.pk
  • 4. What we are discussing g today? • Sustainability and sus stainable manufacturing • Why suddenly sustain Why suddenly sustain nability is under lime  nability is under lime light? g • Sustainability rating sy ystem • Sustainability in textile chain • Measuring sustainability in textile chain • N l i l ti / B i h New legislation / Buying‐houses requirement i t • Q/A
  • 5. Sustainable developm ment: It is the developme t th t meets the needs i th d l ent that t th d of the present without compromising the ability of future gen nerations to meet their own needs.
  • 6. Renewable resource 6 of 42 A substance of economic valu th t A bt f i lue that can be replaced or  b l d replenished in the same amo ount. Some renewable resources h have essentially an endless  supply, such as solar energy, wind energy and geothermal  l h l i d d h l pressure, while other resourcces are considered renewable  even though some time or ef h h f ffort must go into their  ff h renewal, such as wood, oxyge en, leather and fish. Most precious metals are con nsidered renewable as well;  even though they are not nat turally replaced, they can be  recycled because they are no ot destroyed during their  extraction and use. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 7. Resource – rate of use 7 of 42 Fifty years ago, the world was  Fift th l Consumption Discovery consuming 4 billion barrrels of  oil per year and the aver rage  discovery was around 30 discovery was around 30 billion 0 billion. 0 Today we consume 30 billion  Today we consume 30 billion barrels per year and the  discovery rate is approacching 4  billion barrels of crude p billion barrels of crude per year. per year.  p Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 Asi ia newspaper, 4 May 2005, quoted by Rob Hopkins, The Transition Handbook, p. 21
  • 9. Sustainable manufactu uring 9 of 42 Sustainable manufacturing is defined as the  bl f f h creation of manufacture creation of manufacture products that use ed products that use  ed processes that are; I. non‐polluting, II. conserve energy and natural resources, and  II conserve energy and natural resources and are III. economically sound a and safe for  employees, communi i l ities, and consumers.” i d ” Source: US Department of Commerce definition Sustainable Manufacturing – National Council for Ad dvanced Manufacturing (http://www.nacfam.org/ )  ‐ Definition Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 10. Sustainability 10 of 42 Banned  azo dyes Formaldehyde Liquid metal  CO2 Nickel Hea alth Pollution etc. water Safe working  environment i Minimum wages Working hours Holidays etc. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 11. Our dreams Our dreams Safe environment Clean Air Clean Air Enough water &  Safe & healthy  y electricity food Schools for all  No GM food No GM food children hild Enough food Enough food There is a growing awareness s for Sustainability because  these dreams are in dan nger – and we know it. Our customers also know it.
  • 12. Sustainable prac Sustainable prac ctice Our commitment exxtends beyond our  company and customers. company and customers Our community and y d environment are  important as well.
  • 13. Sustainability  u i bili ra ating system ating system
  • 14. Main rating tools 14 of 42 U.K. and Europe U.K. and Europe Americas Rest of the World Rest of the World BREEAM (inc Eco‐homes) LEED (U.S. & C Canada) Green Star (Australia) The Green Guide to  U.S. DOE (U.S S. Department of  BEAM (Hong Kong Specification Energy) Desig gn Guide (U.S.) Office Scorer WBDG (Whole Building ( LEED (China and India) ( ) Design Guide) (U.S.) ENVEST HOK Sustaina HOK Sustaina Design able Design able Greenmark Guide (U.S.) (Singapore) Sustainability Checklists  ada (Canada BREEAM Cana GBTool (South Africa) (e.g.) SEEDA; BRE) Environmental Impact  Green Globes s (U.S. & Assessment (EIA) Assessment (EIA) Canada) Strategic Environmental Assessment (SEA) Sources: RICS (2007) and Green Globes (2009) Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 International Comparison of Sustainable Rating Tools
  • 15. Textile industry 15 of 42 The textile industry i Th t til i d t is one of the longest  f th l t and most complicate and most complicate industrial chains ed industrial chains  ed of the manufacturing g industry. It involves actors from h i l f m the agricultural,  i l l chemical fibre, dyes & chemicals manuf.,  chemical fibre dyes & chemicals manuf textile and apparel in pp ndustries, retail and  , services sector, and wwaste treatment. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 16. Textile processing – ma ajor concern  16 of 42 • Mi i i Minimise pollution: ll ti – air water and land air, water and land • Optimise resources Optimise resources – energy, water, chemicals gy, , • Worker safety • Consumer safety and  satisfaction  Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 17. Textile value chain 17 of 42 major ecological & soc cial challenges Water Effluent Energy Chemistry Land Society Cotton cultivation Spinning Weaving/knitting Wet processing Garment making Moderate  Larrge  Very large  No effect effect effe ect effect Source: Otto group 2006 Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 18. Sustainability through h chemical selection 18 of 42 in textile manufacturi ing Measurement of all impact from chemical  usage Air, water and soil/lan Air water and soil/lannd CO2 emission Waste Health Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 19. Parameters – Sustainability mea asurement in wet processing  19 of 42 CO2 VOC’s NO2 SO2 CH4 UFP’s s Emission Water noise Product Textile Dyes &  y Chemicals Solid waste Land and  Textile fiber water  Liquid waste q pollution Energy Energy Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 20. Changing market  dyna amics 20 of 42 • Chi – textile invigorating plan 2009 – 20 China il i i i l 2009 2011 – Energy: 5 % reduction pe year for whole industry Energy: 5 % reduction pe er year for whole industry er – Water consumption lowe ered by 7 % per year – Wastewater discharge lowered by 7 % per year • India – existing & foreseen water shortage • Bangladesh – gas shortage are prevalent • Pakistan shortage of electricity gas and water Pakistan – shortage of electricity, gas and water  already exists  Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 Source: Texworld, New York – Jan. 2012
  • 21. Reducing water g r consumption  p and saving energy are among   g gy g the highest priorities in the  textile industry today.
  • 22. Cost analysis of a cotto on t‐shirt 22 of 42 Fiber 70 % Utilities 15  0 % 15 – 20 % Labor 08 – 10 % Dyes & Chemicals 03 – 05 % Biggest potential for  Fiber cost reduction t d ti Utilities Labor Dyes & Chemicals Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 25. Measuring sustainability – textile manufacturing 25 of 42 Life cycle assessment of textile Lif l t f t tiles Carbon footprint Water footprint Resources utilization Resources utilization Water Energy Chemicals Assessment of Social responsib bility Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 27. What is life cycle asses ssment (LCA)? 27 of 42 • Enables estimation of cumula ative environmental impacts  results from all stages of the product life cycle • A “cradle‐to‐grave” approach “for assessing the environmental  aspects and potential impacts associated with a product by; p p p p y; – compiling an inventory of relevant inputs and outputs of a  system – evaluating the potential en nvironmental impacts associated  with these inputs and outp with these inputs and outp puts – interpreting the results of the inventory and impact phases  in relation to the objective es of the study.” (ISO 14040) Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 28. Textile product lifecycle 28 of 42 Life cycle of a T‐shirt Supply Chain Footprint Product Footprint Raw  Electricity Production Product supply &  Start of  End of  Material transportation  t i product life d lif product life d lif Growing  Spinning Tra ansportation  Washing Disposal cotton Knitting Drying Dyeing Ironing T‐Shirt  p production Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 29. Carbon footprint 29 of 42 Carbon footprint (CF) – also named Carbon  Carbon footprint (CF) also named Carbon profile  is the overall am profile ‐ is the overall am mount of carbon  mount of carbon dioxide (CO2) and other greenhouse gas  (GHG) emissions (e.g. m methane, laughing gas,  etc.) associated with a p product*, along its  supply‐chain and someti l h i d times including from  i l di f use and end‐of‐life reco use and end of life reco overy and disposal.  overy and disposal Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 30. Definition – Water foot tprint (WFP)  30 of 42 Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 31. Solutions 31 of 42 I. The solutions are complex, and made more so by I The solutions are complex, and made more so by  the lack of a definitive “sus stainable” textile. II. It is not as straightforward as “natural fibres are  better than synthetic better than synthetic”. III. When using natural fibres, the energy, water, and  chemical use in cultivation, , production and  consumer use, washing and care needs to be  consumer use, washing and care needs to be considered, as do issues su uch as environmental  damage, and workers expo damage and workers' expo osure to hazardous  osure to hazardous chemicals, dust and fumes. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 32. Chemicals consumed b by textile industry 32 of 42 25 % 75 % 25% worldwide chemical go 25% worldwide chemical go direct or indirect in textile oes direct or indirect in textile  oes industry Chemical consumption  Chemical consumption  synthetics  textiles synthetics textiles cotton textiles cotton textiles Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 110 ‐ 820 g/kg 350 ‐ 1,500 g/kg
  • 33. Sustainable apparel ind dex 33 of 42 Evaluate the impacts of t the entire life cycle of  apparel products: mater apparel products: materrials, manufacturing,  rials manufacturing p packaging, transportatio g g p on, use, and end of Life. Areas of consideration: Areas of consideration: Water use and quality; Energy use and greenhouse gases; Waste; chemicals and to i it W t h i l d toxicity; and d Social and labor. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 35. New legislation f N l i l ti f for sustainability t i bilit
  • 36. Impact on textile supply chain
  • 38. thank th k you for y f your attention!  tt ti !