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Travel and Leisure : The Greenbrier

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Mimi Lombardo
Mimi Lombardo

The Greenbrier resort in West Virginia has a long history, originally opening in 1778 as a place for people to access the healing mineral springs. In the mid-20th century, interior designer Dorothy Draper was hired to redecorate the hotel, giving it her signature bold floral patterns and colors. While the hotel fell into disrepair in recent decades, a new owner purchased it in 2009 and has been restoring it to its former glory, though some new amenities like a casino have been controversial additions. The hotel still retains much of Draper's original design touches and spirit.

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april 2011 travelandleisure.com00 t h e b o l d a n d t h e b e au t i f u l With its vivid Dorothy Draper interiors and lavish antebellum air, the legendary Greenbrier resort serves as the perfect backdrop for fall’s most vibrant new looks. aimee lee ball travels to West Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains to learn how this classic hotel got its groove back. Photographed by Paul Costello Styled by Mimi Lombardo On the Greenbrier’s North Parlor Porch. Coat and clutch by Milly; tights, Hue; shoes, Marc Jacobs; fedora, Albertus Swanepoel; bracelet, Rachel Leigh; ring, Jessica Ricci. Opposite: In Paradise Alley, off the main dining room. Jacket, top, and pants by Tory Burch; shoes, Fratelli Rossetti; bag, Dior. See Buyer’s Guide, page 171.
Travel and Leisure : The Greenbrier
september 2011 travelandleisure.com144 shimmering chandeliers. The ­Greenbrier resort, in rural West Virginia, was the improbable jewel in her crown. And in many ways, it still is. Travelers have been drawn to this remote valley in the ­Allegheny Mountains for more than 200 years, seeking the curative powers of the white sulphur springs discovered by the Shawnee. The original hotel, known as the White, and its be- hemoth (700-room) successor welcomed ­Vanderbilts and ­Rockefellers, Dolley ­Madison and Davy ­Crockett, ­Jimmy Hoffa and ­Bing ­Crosby—who oftenarrivedinprivaterailroad cars at the depot across from the main entrance. The Duke andDuchessof­Windsordanced in the ballroom; more recent royalty included Bill Gates. When Draper was hired to redecorate after the Second World War, the resort had just finishedservice as a 2,000-bed militaryhospital.Herobjective was to create a large country house catering to the comfort and pleasure of guests—a way of life she understood as the daughter of one of America’s wealthiest families. She re- tained the distinctive wide hallways (a tradition from the hotel’s earliest incarnation, when they accommodated hoop skirts) and dressed the afternoon-tea staff in uni- forms that recalled 19th-­ century parlormaids. She used what she called “masses of beautiful color” with no fear of mixingpatterns.(Forthegrand opening, she was said to be outraged at a gardener water- ing the lawn with a black hose when she had specified red.) One review of the hotel called it “Dorothy at her flaming best.” But two years ago, with a tired reputation and drooping occu- pancy,thepropertywasinChapter11bankruptcy.Alocal­billionaire named Jim Justice bought all 6,500 acres for the bargain price of $20 million, determined to resurrect the glory days. With a new sushi bar, luxury clothing stores, and the Black Eyed Peas in ­concert, the ­Greenbrier is gingerly embracing the 21st century. Some changes have been controversial, including the casino dubbed “­Monte Carlo meets GonewiththeWind.” Today, women in little black dresses are offered big black napkins in a steak house where Wagyu beef is ordered by the ounce. Guests can getahot-stonemassageatthespa,practicetherealsportofkings withtheresidentfalcons,ortourtheBunker,asecretColdWar– era fall­out shelter for mem- bersof­Congress.Startingnext summer, there will be train servicefrom­Washington,D.C. The restored 1950’s Pullman cars will be met by horse- drawn carriages. But the “Draper touch” is stillinevidence,providingcon- tinuityforfamilieswho’vebeen visiting for generations. Her protégéCarletonVarneykeeps a vast inventory of her designs in circulation, and there’s an upholstery shop on site that canwhipoutareplacementfor anysofaorbedskirtthat’sstart- ing to look shabby. The tur- quoise striped walls, black and whitechecker­boardfloors,and “Fudge Apron” floral chintz constitute a classic meme that continuestoinspirepeoplelike Meredith German, a 34-year- olddesignerofaccessoriesand jewelry who grew up nearby, eating Sunday lunch in the ­Greenbrier dining room. “Thosecabbagerosesareinmy blood,”saysGerman,whonow shoots irreverent “look books” for her Meredith Wendell col- lections at the resort—belts wrappedaroundfringedvelvet chairsorhandbagsperchedon agolfcartatoneofthefourchampionshipcourses.“Atone­photo shoot, a bellman walked by a model lying on the floor and com- mented, ‘She must have had a rough night.’ ” Surely Dorothy Draper would have approved. ✚ The Greenbrier, 300 W. Main St., White Sulphur Springs, W. Va.; 800/624-6070; greenbrier.com; doubles from $359. the queen of interior design for a large part of the 20th century, dorothy draper was known for blowsyfloralpatterns,baroqueplasterpediments, Playing croquet (sweater and skirt by Bottega Veneta; tights, Hue; shoes, Fratelli Rossetti; necklace, Pono by Joan Goodman). Opposite, clockwise from top left: On the stairs to Greenbrier Avenue, one of the hotel’s shopping areas (dress by Duro Olowu; shoes, Jimmy Choo; clutch, Tiffany & Co.; earrings, Stella & Dot; bracelets, Meredith Wendell); in the Upper Lobby (dress by Giambattista Valli; tights, Hue; shoes, Fratelli Rossetti; hat, Leah C. Couture Millinery; necklace, Elva Fields; ring, Stella & Dot); in the Victorian Writing Room (dress by Chris Benz; glasses, Selima Optique; ring, Sushma Patel); in the Cameo Ballroom (dress by Michael Kors; shoes, Roger Vivier; clutch, Tiffany & Co.; bracelets, Meredith Wendell). Model:EkaterinaTrifonova/WIlhelmina.hairandmakeup:TinaEcheverri/JudyCasey
travelandleisure.com april 2011 00

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Travel and Leisure : The Greenbrier

  • 1. april 2011 travelandleisure.com00 t h e b o l d a n d t h e b e au t i f u l With its vivid Dorothy Draper interiors and lavish antebellum air, the legendary Greenbrier resort serves as the perfect backdrop for fall’s most vibrant new looks. aimee lee ball travels to West Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains to learn how this classic hotel got its groove back. Photographed by Paul Costello Styled by Mimi Lombardo On the Greenbrier’s North Parlor Porch. Coat and clutch by Milly; tights, Hue; shoes, Marc Jacobs; fedora, Albertus Swanepoel; bracelet, Rachel Leigh; ring, Jessica Ricci. Opposite: In Paradise Alley, off the main dining room. Jacket, top, and pants by Tory Burch; shoes, Fratelli Rossetti; bag, Dior. See Buyer’s Guide, page 171.
  • 3. september 2011 travelandleisure.com144 shimmering chandeliers. The ­Greenbrier resort, in rural West Virginia, was the improbable jewel in her crown. And in many ways, it still is. Travelers have been drawn to this remote valley in the ­Allegheny Mountains for more than 200 years, seeking the curative powers of the white sulphur springs discovered by the Shawnee. The original hotel, known as the White, and its be- hemoth (700-room) successor welcomed ­Vanderbilts and ­Rockefellers, Dolley ­Madison and Davy ­Crockett, ­Jimmy Hoffa and ­Bing ­Crosby—who oftenarrivedinprivaterailroad cars at the depot across from the main entrance. The Duke andDuchessof­Windsordanced in the ballroom; more recent royalty included Bill Gates. When Draper was hired to redecorate after the Second World War, the resort had just finishedservice as a 2,000-bed militaryhospital.Herobjective was to create a large country house catering to the comfort and pleasure of guests—a way of life she understood as the daughter of one of America’s wealthiest families. She re- tained the distinctive wide hallways (a tradition from the hotel’s earliest incarnation, when they accommodated hoop skirts) and dressed the afternoon-tea staff in uni- forms that recalled 19th-­ century parlormaids. She used what she called “masses of beautiful color” with no fear of mixingpatterns.(Forthegrand opening, she was said to be outraged at a gardener water- ing the lawn with a black hose when she had specified red.) One review of the hotel called it “Dorothy at her flaming best.” But two years ago, with a tired reputation and drooping occu- pancy,thepropertywasinChapter11bankruptcy.Alocal­billionaire named Jim Justice bought all 6,500 acres for the bargain price of $20 million, determined to resurrect the glory days. With a new sushi bar, luxury clothing stores, and the Black Eyed Peas in ­concert, the ­Greenbrier is gingerly embracing the 21st century. Some changes have been controversial, including the casino dubbed “­Monte Carlo meets GonewiththeWind.” Today, women in little black dresses are offered big black napkins in a steak house where Wagyu beef is ordered by the ounce. Guests can getahot-stonemassageatthespa,practicetherealsportofkings withtheresidentfalcons,ortourtheBunker,asecretColdWar– era fall­out shelter for mem- bersof­Congress.Startingnext summer, there will be train servicefrom­Washington,D.C. The restored 1950’s Pullman cars will be met by horse- drawn carriages. But the “Draper touch” is stillinevidence,providingcon- tinuityforfamilieswho’vebeen visiting for generations. Her protégéCarletonVarneykeeps a vast inventory of her designs in circulation, and there’s an upholstery shop on site that canwhipoutareplacementfor anysofaorbedskirtthat’sstart- ing to look shabby. The tur- quoise striped walls, black and whitechecker­boardfloors,and “Fudge Apron” floral chintz constitute a classic meme that continuestoinspirepeoplelike Meredith German, a 34-year- olddesignerofaccessoriesand jewelry who grew up nearby, eating Sunday lunch in the ­Greenbrier dining room. “Thosecabbagerosesareinmy blood,”saysGerman,whonow shoots irreverent “look books” for her Meredith Wendell col- lections at the resort—belts wrappedaroundfringedvelvet chairsorhandbagsperchedon agolfcartatoneofthefourchampionshipcourses.“Atone­photo shoot, a bellman walked by a model lying on the floor and com- mented, ‘She must have had a rough night.’ ” Surely Dorothy Draper would have approved. ✚ The Greenbrier, 300 W. Main St., White Sulphur Springs, W. Va.; 800/624-6070; greenbrier.com; doubles from $359. the queen of interior design for a large part of the 20th century, dorothy draper was known for blowsyfloralpatterns,baroqueplasterpediments, Playing croquet (sweater and skirt by Bottega Veneta; tights, Hue; shoes, Fratelli Rossetti; necklace, Pono by Joan Goodman). Opposite, clockwise from top left: On the stairs to Greenbrier Avenue, one of the hotel’s shopping areas (dress by Duro Olowu; shoes, Jimmy Choo; clutch, Tiffany & Co.; earrings, Stella & Dot; bracelets, Meredith Wendell); in the Upper Lobby (dress by Giambattista Valli; tights, Hue; shoes, Fratelli Rossetti; hat, Leah C. Couture Millinery; necklace, Elva Fields; ring, Stella & Dot); in the Victorian Writing Room (dress by Chris Benz; glasses, Selima Optique; ring, Sushma Patel); in the Cameo Ballroom (dress by Michael Kors; shoes, Roger Vivier; clutch, Tiffany & Co.; bracelets, Meredith Wendell). Model:EkaterinaTrifonova/WIlhelmina.hairandmakeup:TinaEcheverri/JudyCasey