This document outlines a system design project for improving sustainability and transparency in the apparel supply chain. It discusses challenges around lack of traceability and sustainability practices. The project involved mapping the key stakeholders in the supply chain ecosystem and their interactions. Several issues were identified around data sharing between partners, certification practices, and design processes not supporting sustainability goals. The system map details the current end-to-end process and opportunities to address problems through improved collaboration, guidance and data intelligence.
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UX STRAT Europe 2019: Nur Karadeniz, Fjord
1. System design for
designing complex
data-driven ecosystems
Fjord at The Dock,
Accenture’s R&D and Innovation Centre
@nurdeniz
Nur Karadeniz
linkedin.com/in/nurkaradeniz
4. Services today
—
• Economical impact
• Psychological impact
• Expectations not met
• Environmental Impact
https://www.varkeyfoundation.org/media/4487/global-young-people-report-single-pages-new.pdf
https://www.fairtrade.org.uk/Media-Centre/Blog/2018/April/The-true-cost-of-fast-fashion
5. System design is an advanced form of design
practice where designers work with a system’s
components; partners, processes, services,
technologies and data.
8. Challenge statement
How can we promote sustainable and
ethical practices in apparel manufacturing
by improving transparency and
traceability?
9. 9
Traceability
Sustainability
Transparency
Ability to maintain
an activity indefinitely
over time
(Social, Environmental,
Economic)
Capturing information
(practices, processes,
actors, etc) about a
particular component or
product throughout the
supply chain
Making that information
visible to other actors
Key
Definitions
10. The landscape
—
The Independent Edited (May-18) Forbes (Nov-18)
Vogue (May-18)
Global fashion Agenda (Aug-18)Just Style (Nov-18)
Eco Textile (Nov-18)
Drapers (Nov-18)
MarketLine (Nov-18)Affinity (Jan-18)
Irish Times (Jun-18)
https://truecostmovie.com/learn-more/environmental-impact/
11. >75%
…of consumers
globally think that it is
somewhat or very
important for a
company to be
transparent.
…of brands don’t
publish the sources of
their products
because they don’t
know where their raw
materials come from.
14. TIER 1
SUPPLIER
ASSURANCE
T
IE
R
1
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
T
IE
R
1
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
T
IE
R
2
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
T
IE
R
2
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
T
IE
R
3
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
TIER 1
TIER 2
TIER 3
A
S
S
U
R
A
N
C
E
R
E
TA
ILE
R
T-shirt specs
TIER 2 SUP
TIER 3 S
RETAILER
ASSURANCE
TIER 1 SUPPLIE
A. Prod
Receives life-cycle
assessment request
‘business profile’ an
converts retailers re
into actionable requ
Life-cycle
Assessment Team
Engages with assura
company or interna
to initiate life-cycle
assessment request
Email
Request
Corporate Social
Responsibility (C
RETAILER
Sourcing team
Reviews and assesses
the ‘audit report’.
Sourcing team
receives the ‘audit report’.
Audit team
Facilitates closing
meeting. Reviews results
and proposes a CAP.
Excel
CAP
Supplier
Initiates internal
communication to
support assurance team
for auditing.
Audit team
Audits factories and complete
audit form with notes, data,
photos.
Face to face meetings,
interviews with key people
Hard-soft copy files, photos,
HR data, chemical data, etc.
Supplier
Collects required
documents and meets with
key people in the company
in preparation for the audit.
Sourcing team
Creates supplier profile in
their internal system.
SRM
Supplier profile
Sourcing team
Engages with ‘assurance
company’ or ‘Internal audit
team’ to initiate auditing
process for the supplier.
Email, online platform
Audit form, PDF file,
Excel, Word
Design team
Designs concept
and develops styles.
PML, design system
Tech pack
Sustainability team
Define sustainability
strategy to align with
company strategy.
Sustainability team
Identify sustainability
initiatives and
business/value case.
Sustainability team
Monitor compliance and
impact of investments.
Sustainability team
Report on sustainability
performance and strategy.
Digital doc
Sustainability team
Create or update
guidelines and policies
for sustainability.
Digital doc
Identifies potential
new suppliers and
requests/ collects info for
suitability assessment.
Sourcing team,
3rd party agents
Supplier marketplaces,
online search, fairs,
conferences
RFI
Sourcing team
Finalizes the minimum
requirements documents and
sends the initial agreement
to supplier. Sometimes visits
the supplier.
Sourcing team
Signs the initial agreement
Supplier
Signs the NDA agreement
Sourcing team
Signs the NDA agreement
Sourcing team
Identifies requirements for
suppliers based on
garment spec and confirm
whether existing supplier
base can manage.
SRM
Supplier profile
Approved
ApprovedSourcing team
Receives and assesses the
additional evidence of
improvements suppliers have
made based on the CAP.
Not approved
Approved
with CAP
Not approved
Supplier
receives the ‘audit report’.
Sourcing team
Creates/updates factory
profile in the internal systems.
SRM
Supplier profile
Supplier
Makes improvements and
fixes the gaps based on the
requirements listed in
Correction Action Plan (CAP)
Shares the detailed tech.
pack with the supplier.
Digital doc
(Excel, PLM, PDF, etc.)
Tech pack - design specs,
sustainability requirements,
tech specs, certification
Sourcing team
Sampling Team
Produces samples
for testing.
Sourcing team
Receives and reviews
the test sample.
Physical sample
Sourcing team
Sends Request for Quote
(RFQ) to supplier 1
Email, Online supplier portal
RFQ
Sourcing team
Receives quote from
supplier 1 and prepares
‘Purchase Order’
Sourcing Team
Defines production and
sourcing requirements
based on the tech pack.
Audit team
Records request and
communication, creates
and agrees audit plan with
retailer
CRM
Purpose of audit, scope,
meeting minutes,
comm. channel etc.
Audit team
Prepares and shares
‘NDA - agreement’ with
retailer and supplier.
Email
NDA Agreement
Audit team
Informs supplier about
the auditing process and
set up kick-off meeting.
Face-to-face meeting
Audit plan
Audit team
Facilitates the kick-off
meeting.
Face-to-face meeting
Audit plan
Sourcing team
Uploads the audit report
to their internal systems.
File storage
Audit report
Email
Audit report
Audit team
Writes up and submits
‘audit report’ to both
retailer and supplier.
Audit
Controls and shares the
Correction Action Plan
(CAP) with supplier.
Excel, Email
Correction Action Plan
(CAP)
Audit
Receives and reviews the
evidence of suppliers actions
against the CAP. Shares the
evidence and results with retailer.
Email
Additional documents,
photos Supplier
Collects and shares evidences
(photos, additional documents,
etc.) of improvement and fixed
gaps mentioned in the CAP.
Email
Additional documents,
Photos
Sourcing team
Defines additional requirements
and updates Corrective Action
Plan (CAP) with auditor.
Excel, Email
Correction Action Plan (CAP)
Merchandiser
Prepares and shares
the requested information
with the retailer.
Online platform, email
(files & doc), phone, template.
Name, address, products,
clients, certifications,
locations, sustainability
capability, technical capability,
financials, previous audits
Merchandiser
Signs the initial agreement
Online platform, email
(files & doc), phone, template
Initial agreement
Sampling Team
Sends test samples
to retailer.
Shipment
Physical sample
Merchandiser
Receives the RFQ.
Confirms availability
and capability.
Merchandiser
Prepares ‘Quote’ and
negotiates with retailer.
Email,
Online supplier portal
Quote
Production Team
Prepares for production.
1 Design
Sustainability
Strategy
0
2 Discovery
Assessment
& Onboarding
3
Testing &
Sampling
4
5 Ordering
6 Production
0.1
2.5 6.1 6.6
2.1 2.2 2.3
0.4 0.5 1.2
0.2
1.2 2.4 8.2
0.2 0.3 0.5
0.1
2.1 3.3
2.4 2.6 8.4
2.6 6A.1
0.6
3.6
0.1
8.4
0.1 3.3
2.11 2.13
3.1
0.6
3.7 3.80.30.1
3.10 6.6
3.5 3.6
0.6
3.20.4 6.6
0.4
0.3
0.4
8.4
3.9 3.106.1 6.6
3.6 3.40.2
9.10.1 3.3
6.7
4.1
6.8
0.1 2.2
6.8
3.3
6.1 8.4 9.11.1 1.20.1
0.4 0.5 0.6 0.70.20.1 0.3
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Some suppliers neglect
to destroy samples.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Retailer
Retailers’ designs may end up
in the grey market*.
*An unofficial market of goods
that have not been obtained
from an official supplier.
PP
4.1
RC
4.1-1
4
COLLABORATION
Internal
Actor | Retailer
Retailers’ internal teams work in
silos. Design teams are not
informed about the capabilities or
products of sustainable factories
decided on by CSR teams.
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Data on the impact of design
decision on sustainability
is not available.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Absence of clear business
decision on sustainability.
Designers are not informed
or incentivised to design
for sustainability.
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer
Design is not sustainable from
the start. Retrospectively
impacting and improving
sustainability is difficult and
expensive.
PP
1.1
RC
1.1-1
RC
1.1-2
RC
1.1-3
1
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Only a small number of
certifications have official
accreditation. These audits are
3-6 days long, and expensive.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Supplier
Certification is mostly
a marketing activity.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t invest in
expensive but more credible
certifications if only some
small number of their
retailers require it.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Certifications don’t have
the desired impact on
sustainability.
PP
1.2
RC
1.2-1
RC
1.2-2
RC
1.2-3
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t keep
retailers up to date about the
changes in critical information
(company name, addresses, etc)
RC
2.6-5
2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Each party maintains their
own records.
RC
2.6-2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Retailer internal teams work in
silos and they don’t collect data
in one single place (marketing,
sustainability, legal, sourcing).
RC
2.6-4
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Retailer legacy systems are not
sufficient and effective to collect
and maintain supplier info.
(manual entry, duplication, not in
one place, etc)
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Supplier, Retailer
Detailed supplier information
is not always easily available.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Data available on suppliers can
be inaccurate or out of date.
PP
2.6
RC
2.6-1
RC
2.6-3
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Supplier, Retailer
Approved suppliers shortlists
are not regularly updated with
new sustainability requirements.
RC
2.1-1
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Materials
Actor | Supplier
Sustainable materials are
challenging to source and are
not easily available (e.g. organic
cotton, recycled materials).
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers are not able to
meet the required lead
time for sourcing new
and sustainable goods.
PP
2.1
RC
2.1-2
VISIBILITY
Upstream Visibility
Actor | Retailer
Suppliers don’t invest in
expensive but more credible
certifications if only a
small number of their
retailers require it.
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Processes
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Upstream suppliers don’t have
high quality audit processes like T1
and retailer. Lack of centralization
of sourcing database for
upstream supplier visibility.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers find it difficult
to source upstream suppliers
who meet retailer
requirements, particularly
regarding sustainability.
PP
2.2
RC
2.2-1
RC
2.2-2
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Misaligned KPI metrics
about cost, quality and
sustainability.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Lack of direction on cost,
time, and quality (material,
sustainability) makes it harder
to chose the best supplier
for sustainability.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Sourcing teams don’t always
chose best supplier in terms
of sustainability.
PP
2.5
RC
2.5-1
RC
2.5-2
VISIBILITY
Upstream Visibility
Actor | Retailer
Retailers don’t have adequate
visibility of upstream supply
chain when suppliers are
not nominated.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers lose their
flexibility to source
competitively, and to
negotiate pricing, when
suppliers are nominated.
PP
2.3
RC
2.3-1
VISIBILITY
Upstream Visibility
Actor | Supplier
Small retailers do not have local
network for sourcing activities.
They rely on 3rd parties for the
communication.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers lose the flexibility
and ability to communicate
directly with retailers when
an agent is involved.
PP
2.4
VISIBILITY
Upstream Visibility
Actor | Agent
Agents are involved as
a buffer in retailer and
supplier communication.
RC
2.4-2
RC
2.4-3
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Supplier
Small suppliers do not have
strategic importance for retailers
and assurance companies.
RC
2.4-1
3
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Processes
Actor | Retailer, Assurance
Auditors are limited in sharing
audit results with multiple
retailers due to NDA agreements.
WORKLOAD
Actor | Supplier
Audit Fatigue.
Suppliers are overwhelmed by
the number of audit requests
from retailers, and certifications.
PP
3.6
RC
3.6-3
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Assurance
Audit data is subjective and
fragmented and is collected
inconsistently
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Assurance, Supplier
Suppliers may keep multiple
books to accommodate varying
requirements of each customers.
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Assurance
Environmental sustainability
audits are done based on historic
paper trail (no lab testing, etc).
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Assurance
In order to keep costs down,
insufficient time is allocated
to audit.
RC
3.4-1
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Process
Actor | Assurance
Auditors don’t always have
necessary expertise in different
audit domains such as
sustainability, environmental etc.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Audit outcomes are not reliable and
may not necessarily reflect reality.
PP
3.4
RC
3.4-5
RC
3.4-3
RC
3.4-4
RC
3.1-2
RC
3.1-3
RC
3.4-2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
The documents are often in a a
foreign language and there is no
standardization in the structure
of the documents.
WORKLOAD
Actor | Assurance
It’s sometimes challenging for
assurance providers to
understand and process
documents submitted by
suppliers or local auditors.
PP
3.9
RC
3.9-1
COLLABORATION
Internal
Actor | Assurance
Different departments within
assurance companies work
in silos and don’t collect data
in one single place.e
WORKLOAD
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers need to prepare the
same information in different
formats for different teams of
auditors.
PP
3.10
RC
3.10-1
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Supplier
It is not clear what happens
to data, how it stored
and shared.
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Retailers don’t communicate
purpose of requiring detailed
information to suppliers.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers are asked to
share data that they are
not comfortable with.
PP
3.5
RC
3.5-1
RC
3.5-2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Analysis & Reporting
Actor | Assurance
Audit reports are paper
based, long, unstructured
and inconsistent.
CLEAR
COMMUNICATION
Actor | Retailer
Retailers find audit reports
challenging to understand and
drive intelligence from.
PP
3.2
RC
3.2-1
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers are obliged to pay
for factory audits when done by
assurance companies.
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer
Auditors are limited in sharing
audit results with multiple
retailers due to NDA agreements.
PP
3.7
WORKLOAD
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers are requested
to have similar audits
multiple times.
RC
3.7-1
RC
3.7-2
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Processes
Actor | Assurance
Some audit activities may
interfere or delay
production because of lack
of, or wrong planning.
WORKLOAD
Actor | Supplier
Audits are disruptive for the
factory production process
which leads to over-time work
and sub-contracting.
PP
3.8
RC
3.8-1
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
A new audit is required
for each new supplier.
RC
3.3-2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
There are lots of documents and
agreements sent through
inefficient channels such as
email, phone.
RC
3.3-4
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
There is no auditor
in some locations.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Assurance
Existing suppliers
are not fully utilized.
RC
3.3-1
RC
3.3-3
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer, Supplier, Assurance
It takes a long tome to onboard new suppliers.
PP
3.3
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Policy and contract
documentation is long
and paper based.
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Language and communication
barriers between actors.
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Lack of standardised
requirements within retailers
policies and contracts
CLEAR
COMMUNICATION
Actor | Retailer
Retailers are not confident that
suppliers truly understand and
agree to all the clauses and
requirements within policy and
contracting documents.
PP
3.1
RC
3.1-1
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Retailers are not confident
using other/existing
audit results.
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Each company has its own
sustainability standards because of
the lack of eco-system standards.
Suppliers are asked to get different
certifications for different brands
for similar purposes.
RC
3.6-1
RC
3.6-2
STRATEGY
Regulation
Actor | Governments
Governments are not funding
enforcement of regulations.
STRATEGY
Regulation
Actor | Retailer, Regulators
Regulations between
geographies are not aligned.
Local regulations may not
meet retailer standards.
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier,
Government.
There is lack of enforcement
of sustainability regulations.
PP
6.1
RC
6.1-1
RC
6.1-2
6
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Supplier
High cost of recycling
excess material at production.
RC
6.2-1
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Lack of clear and actionable
measurement standards and
regulations about actions on
excess materials.
GUIDANCE
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t know what to
do with excess materials and
waste during production
(storage, disposal, transport).
PP
6.2
RC
6.2-2
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Nominated suppliers may not
provide a good service to
‘Supplier Tier 1’ because they
are contracted by retailers.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t often receive
their materials from the
nominated upstream
suppliers on time, which
impacts production time.
PP
6.3
RC
6.3-1
KNOW
& CAPA
Process
Actor | R
Inconsi
and pro
differen
RELIA
Actor |
Tier 1 s
respon
upon re
despite
before
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Processes
Actor | Retailer
Retailers are not able to use their
legacy systems to manage new
requirements including
traceability and sustainability.
RC
0.4-3s
plier,
ations
and difficult
able steps.
s
plier
standards
grams.
ations
eep up
hanging
ements
nsumers,
RC
0.2-1
RC
0.2-2
RC
0.2-3
PP
0.2
DATA INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Different teams within
retailers use disconnected data
management systems (purchase
order, logistics, compliances).
DATA INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Data about sustainability is
buried in docs, PDF’s, excels in
unstructured folder systems,
making it hard to use intelligent
systems to create insights.
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer
Retailers can’t efficiently
retrieve or extract intelligent
data on sustainability.
PP
0.4
RC
0.4-1
RC
0.4-2
RC
0.3-4
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
There is a lack of industry
benchmarks for
sustainability criteria
DATA INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
Data about sustainability is
buried in docs, PDF’s, excels in
unstructured folder systems,
making it hard to use intelligent
systems to create insights.
RC
0.3-3
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Supplier
It is challenging to quantify the
value and ROI of sustainability
investments
RC
0.3-1
RC
0.3-2
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Absence of clear business
strategy for sustainability and
priority within an organization
& the ecosystem in general
(mission & vision).
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Retailers and suppliers find it challenging to
work out where to focus their investment in
terms of sustainability.
PP
0.3
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Long term and non-monetary
ROI in sustainability.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
It’s challenging to justify
investment in strategic
supplier’s sustainability
because of the need to be
agile & flexible to source.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Lack of standard processes to
measure the KPI. Internal retailer
teams define contradicting KPI’s
in their silos and have different
priorities.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Retailers/suppliers are not able
to prove/show sustainability ROI
(investment in factories, tech,
waste, toxic management).
PP
0.5
RC
0.5-1
RC
0.5-2
RC
0.5-3
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
It is challenging to quantify
the value and ROI of
sustainability investments.
RC
0.7-2
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Retailers don’t pay premium
to suppliers in exchange for their
sustainability efforts because
of the cost pressure.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t see ROI of their
sustainability efforts.
PP
0.7
RC
0.7-1
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Open costing is not preferred
by suppliers. Sharing some
critical data could impact
competitive advantage.
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer
Providing additional
information can lead to
additional scrutiny.
RC
0.6-3
RC
0.6-4
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Both retailer and supplier
are reluctant to become
transparent due to fear
of being exposed.
RC
0.6-2
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Both retailers and suppliers
are unclear about how the
shared data will be used.
RC
0.6-1
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Suppliers and retailers resist being transparent.
PP
0.6
Map of internal and external processes
and practices of retail supply chain
System map
—
15. TIER 1
SUPPLIER
ASSURANCE
T
IE
R
1
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
T
IE
R
1
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
T
IE
R
2
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
T
IE
R
2
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
T
IE
R
3
S
U
P
P
LIE
R
TIER 1
TIER 2
TIER 3
A
S
S
U
R
A
N
C
E
R
E
TA
ILE
R
T-shirt specs
TIER 2 SUP
TIER 3 S
RETAILER
ASSURANCE
TIER 1 SUPPLIE
A. Prod
Receives life-cycle
assessment request
‘business profile’ an
converts retailers re
into actionable requ
Life-cycle
Assessment Team
Engages with assura
company or interna
to initiate life-cycle
assessment request
Email
Request
Corporate Social
Responsibility (C
RETAILER
Sourcing team
Reviews and assesses
the ‘audit report’.
Sourcing team
receives the ‘audit report’.
Audit team
Facilitates closing
meeting. Reviews results
and proposes a CAP.
Excel
CAP
Supplier
Initiates internal
communication to
support assurance team
for auditing.
Audit team
Audits factories and complete
audit form with notes, data,
photos.
Face to face meetings,
interviews with key people
Hard-soft copy files, photos,
HR data, chemical data, etc.
Supplier
Collects required
documents and meets with
key people in the company
in preparation for the audit.
Sourcing team
Creates supplier profile in
their internal system.
SRM
Supplier profile
Sourcing team
Engages with ‘assurance
company’ or ‘Internal audit
team’ to initiate auditing
process for the supplier.
Email, online platform
Audit form, PDF file,
Excel, Word
Design team
Designs concept
and develops styles.
PML, design system
Tech pack
Sustainability team
Define sustainability
strategy to align with
company strategy.
Sustainability team
Identify sustainability
initiatives and
business/value case.
Sustainability team
Monitor compliance and
impact of investments.
Sustainability team
Report on sustainability
performance and strategy.
Digital doc
Sustainability team
Create or update
guidelines and policies
for sustainability.
Digital doc
Identifies potential
new suppliers and
requests/ collects info for
suitability assessment.
Sourcing team,
3rd party agents
Supplier marketplaces,
online search, fairs,
conferences
RFI
Sourcing team
Finalizes the minimum
requirements documents and
sends the initial agreement
to supplier. Sometimes visits
the supplier.
Sourcing team
Signs the initial agreement
Supplier
Signs the NDA agreement
Sourcing team
Signs the NDA agreement
Sourcing team
Identifies requirements for
suppliers based on
garment spec and confirm
whether existing supplier
base can manage.
SRM
Supplier profile
Approved
ApprovedSourcing team
Receives and assesses the
additional evidence of
improvements suppliers have
made based on the CAP.
Not approved
Approved
with CAP
Not approved
Supplier
receives the ‘audit report’.
Sourcing team
Creates/updates factory
profile in the internal systems.
SRM
Supplier profile
Supplier
Makes improvements and
fixes the gaps based on the
requirements listed in
Correction Action Plan (CAP)
Shares the detailed tech.
pack with the supplier.
Digital doc
(Excel, PLM, PDF, etc.)
Tech pack - design specs,
sustainability requirements,
tech specs, certification
Sourcing team
Sampling Team
Produces samples
for testing.
Sourcing team
Receives and reviews
the test sample.
Physical sample
Sourcing team
Sends Request for Quote
(RFQ) to supplier 1
Email, Online supplier portal
RFQ
Sourcing team
Receives quote from
supplier 1 and prepares
‘Purchase Order’
Sourcing Team
Defines production and
sourcing requirements
based on the tech pack.
Audit team
Records request and
communication, creates
and agrees audit plan with
retailer
CRM
Purpose of audit, scope,
meeting minutes,
comm. channel etc.
Audit team
Prepares and shares
‘NDA - agreement’ with
retailer and supplier.
Email
NDA Agreement
Audit team
Informs supplier about
the auditing process and
set up kick-off meeting.
Face-to-face meeting
Audit plan
Audit team
Facilitates the kick-off
meeting.
Face-to-face meeting
Audit plan
Sourcing team
Uploads the audit report
to their internal systems.
File storage
Audit report
Email
Audit report
Audit team
Writes up and submits
‘audit report’ to both
retailer and supplier.
Audit
Controls and shares the
Correction Action Plan
(CAP) with supplier.
Excel, Email
Correction Action Plan
(CAP)
Audit
Receives and reviews the
evidence of suppliers actions
against the CAP. Shares the
evidence and results with retailer.
Email
Additional documents,
photos Supplier
Collects and shares evidences
(photos, additional documents,
etc.) of improvement and fixed
gaps mentioned in the CAP.
Email
Additional documents,
Photos
Sourcing team
Defines additional requirements
and updates Corrective Action
Plan (CAP) with auditor.
Excel, Email
Correction Action Plan (CAP)
Merchandiser
Prepares and shares
the requested information
with the retailer.
Online platform, email
(files & doc), phone, template.
Name, address, products,
clients, certifications,
locations, sustainability
capability, technical capability,
financials, previous audits
Merchandiser
Signs the initial agreement
Online platform, email
(files & doc), phone, template
Initial agreement
Sampling Team
Sends test samples
to retailer.
Shipment
Physical sample
Merchandiser
Receives the RFQ.
Confirms availability
and capability.
Merchandiser
Prepares ‘Quote’ and
negotiates with retailer.
Email,
Online supplier portal
Quote
Production Team
Prepares for production.
1 Design
Sustainability
Strategy
0
2 Discovery
Assessment
& Onboarding
3
Testing &
Sampling
4
5 Ordering
6 Production
0.1
2.5 6.1 6.6
2.1 2.2 2.3
0.4 0.5 1.2
0.2
1.2 2.4 8.2
0.2 0.3 0.5
0.1
2.1 3.3
2.4 2.6 8.4
2.6 6A.1
0.6
3.6
0.1
8.4
0.1 3.3
2.11 2.13
3.1
0.6
3.7 3.80.30.1
3.10 6.6
3.5 3.6
0.6
3.20.4 6.6
0.4
0.3
0.4
8.4
3.9 3.106.1 6.6
3.6 3.40.2
9.10.1 3.3
6.7
4.1
6.8
0.1 2.2
6.8
3.3
6.1 8.4 9.11.1 1.20.1
0.4 0.5 0.6 0.70.20.1 0.3
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Some suppliers neglect
to destroy samples.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Retailer
Retailers’ designs may end up
in the grey market*.
*An unofficial market of goods
that have not been obtained
from an official supplier.
PP
4.1
RC
4.1-1
4
COLLABORATION
Internal
Actor | Retailer
Retailers’ internal teams work in
silos. Design teams are not
informed about the capabilities or
products of sustainable factories
decided on by CSR teams.
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Data on the impact of design
decision on sustainability
is not available.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Absence of clear business
decision on sustainability.
Designers are not informed
or incentivised to design
for sustainability.
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer
Design is not sustainable from
the start. Retrospectively
impacting and improving
sustainability is difficult and
expensive.
PP
1.1
RC
1.1-1
RC
1.1-2
RC
1.1-3
1
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Only a small number of
certifications have official
accreditation. These audits are
3-6 days long, and expensive.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Supplier
Certification is mostly
a marketing activity.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t invest in
expensive but more credible
certifications if only some
small number of their
retailers require it.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Certifications don’t have
the desired impact on
sustainability.
PP
1.2
RC
1.2-1
RC
1.2-2
RC
1.2-3
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t keep
retailers up to date about the
changes in critical information
(company name, addresses, etc)
RC
2.6-5
2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Each party maintains their
own records.
RC
2.6-2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Retailer internal teams work in
silos and they don’t collect data
in one single place (marketing,
sustainability, legal, sourcing).
RC
2.6-4
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Retailer legacy systems are not
sufficient and effective to collect
and maintain supplier info.
(manual entry, duplication, not in
one place, etc)
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Supplier, Retailer
Detailed supplier information
is not always easily available.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Data available on suppliers can
be inaccurate or out of date.
PP
2.6
RC
2.6-1
RC
2.6-3
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Supplier, Retailer
Approved suppliers shortlists
are not regularly updated with
new sustainability requirements.
RC
2.1-1
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Materials
Actor | Supplier
Sustainable materials are
challenging to source and are
not easily available (e.g. organic
cotton, recycled materials).
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers are not able to
meet the required lead
time for sourcing new
and sustainable goods.
PP
2.1
RC
2.1-2
VISIBILITY
Upstream Visibility
Actor | Retailer
Suppliers don’t invest in
expensive but more credible
certifications if only a
small number of their
retailers require it.
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Processes
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Upstream suppliers don’t have
high quality audit processes like T1
and retailer. Lack of centralization
of sourcing database for
upstream supplier visibility.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers find it difficult
to source upstream suppliers
who meet retailer
requirements, particularly
regarding sustainability.
PP
2.2
RC
2.2-1
RC
2.2-2
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Misaligned KPI metrics
about cost, quality and
sustainability.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Lack of direction on cost,
time, and quality (material,
sustainability) makes it harder
to chose the best supplier
for sustainability.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Sourcing teams don’t always
chose best supplier in terms
of sustainability.
PP
2.5
RC
2.5-1
RC
2.5-2
VISIBILITY
Upstream Visibility
Actor | Retailer
Retailers don’t have adequate
visibility of upstream supply
chain when suppliers are
not nominated.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers lose their
flexibility to source
competitively, and to
negotiate pricing, when
suppliers are nominated.
PP
2.3
RC
2.3-1
VISIBILITY
Upstream Visibility
Actor | Supplier
Small retailers do not have local
network for sourcing activities.
They rely on 3rd parties for the
communication.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers lose the flexibility
and ability to communicate
directly with retailers when
an agent is involved.
PP
2.4
VISIBILITY
Upstream Visibility
Actor | Agent
Agents are involved as
a buffer in retailer and
supplier communication.
RC
2.4-2
RC
2.4-3
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Supplier
Small suppliers do not have
strategic importance for retailers
and assurance companies.
RC
2.4-1
3
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Processes
Actor | Retailer, Assurance
Auditors are limited in sharing
audit results with multiple
retailers due to NDA agreements.
WORKLOAD
Actor | Supplier
Audit Fatigue.
Suppliers are overwhelmed by
the number of audit requests
from retailers, and certifications.
PP
3.6
RC
3.6-3
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Assurance
Audit data is subjective and
fragmented and is collected
inconsistently
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Assurance, Supplier
Suppliers may keep multiple
books to accommodate varying
requirements of each customers.
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Assurance
Environmental sustainability
audits are done based on historic
paper trail (no lab testing, etc).
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Assurance
In order to keep costs down,
insufficient time is allocated
to audit.
RC
3.4-1
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Process
Actor | Assurance
Auditors don’t always have
necessary expertise in different
audit domains such as
sustainability, environmental etc.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Audit outcomes are not reliable and
may not necessarily reflect reality.
PP
3.4
RC
3.4-5
RC
3.4-3
RC
3.4-4
RC
3.1-2
RC
3.1-3
RC
3.4-2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
The documents are often in a a
foreign language and there is no
standardization in the structure
of the documents.
WORKLOAD
Actor | Assurance
It’s sometimes challenging for
assurance providers to
understand and process
documents submitted by
suppliers or local auditors.
PP
3.9
RC
3.9-1
COLLABORATION
Internal
Actor | Assurance
Different departments within
assurance companies work
in silos and don’t collect data
in one single place.e
WORKLOAD
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers need to prepare the
same information in different
formats for different teams of
auditors.
PP
3.10
RC
3.10-1
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Supplier
It is not clear what happens
to data, how it stored
and shared.
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Retailers don’t communicate
purpose of requiring detailed
information to suppliers.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers are asked to
share data that they are
not comfortable with.
PP
3.5
RC
3.5-1
RC
3.5-2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Analysis & Reporting
Actor | Assurance
Audit reports are paper
based, long, unstructured
and inconsistent.
CLEAR
COMMUNICATION
Actor | Retailer
Retailers find audit reports
challenging to understand and
drive intelligence from.
PP
3.2
RC
3.2-1
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers are obliged to pay
for factory audits when done by
assurance companies.
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer
Auditors are limited in sharing
audit results with multiple
retailers due to NDA agreements.
PP
3.7
WORKLOAD
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers are requested
to have similar audits
multiple times.
RC
3.7-1
RC
3.7-2
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Processes
Actor | Assurance
Some audit activities may
interfere or delay
production because of lack
of, or wrong planning.
WORKLOAD
Actor | Supplier
Audits are disruptive for the
factory production process
which leads to over-time work
and sub-contracting.
PP
3.8
RC
3.8-1
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
A new audit is required
for each new supplier.
RC
3.3-2
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
There are lots of documents and
agreements sent through
inefficient channels such as
email, phone.
RC
3.3-4
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
There is no auditor
in some locations.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Assurance
Existing suppliers
are not fully utilized.
RC
3.3-1
RC
3.3-3
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer, Supplier, Assurance
It takes a long tome to onboard new suppliers.
PP
3.3
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Policy and contract
documentation is long
and paper based.
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Language and communication
barriers between actors.
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Lack of standardised
requirements within retailers
policies and contracts
CLEAR
COMMUNICATION
Actor | Retailer
Retailers are not confident that
suppliers truly understand and
agree to all the clauses and
requirements within policy and
contracting documents.
PP
3.1
RC
3.1-1
DATA
INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Retailers are not confident
using other/existing
audit results.
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Each company has its own
sustainability standards because of
the lack of eco-system standards.
Suppliers are asked to get different
certifications for different brands
for similar purposes.
RC
3.6-1
RC
3.6-2
STRATEGY
Regulation
Actor | Governments
Governments are not funding
enforcement of regulations.
STRATEGY
Regulation
Actor | Retailer, Regulators
Regulations between
geographies are not aligned.
Local regulations may not
meet retailer standards.
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier,
Government.
There is lack of enforcement
of sustainability regulations.
PP
6.1
RC
6.1-1
RC
6.1-2
6
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Supplier
High cost of recycling
excess material at production.
RC
6.2-1
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Lack of clear and actionable
measurement standards and
regulations about actions on
excess materials.
GUIDANCE
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t know what to
do with excess materials and
waste during production
(storage, disposal, transport).
PP
6.2
RC
6.2-2
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Supplier
Nominated suppliers may not
provide a good service to
‘Supplier Tier 1’ because they
are contracted by retailers.
RELIABILITY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t often receive
their materials from the
nominated upstream
suppliers on time, which
impacts production time.
PP
6.3
RC
6.3-1
KNOW
& CAPA
Process
Actor | R
Inconsi
and pro
differen
RELIA
Actor |
Tier 1 s
respon
upon re
despite
before
KNOW HOW
& CAPABILITY
Processes
Actor | Retailer
Retailers are not able to use their
legacy systems to manage new
requirements including
traceability and sustainability.
RC
0.4-3s
plier,
ations
and difficult
able steps.
s
plier
standards
grams.
ations
eep up
hanging
ements
nsumers,
RC
0.2-1
RC
0.2-2
RC
0.2-3
PP
0.2
DATA INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Different teams within
retailers use disconnected data
management systems (purchase
order, logistics, compliances).
DATA INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer
Data about sustainability is
buried in docs, PDF’s, excels in
unstructured folder systems,
making it hard to use intelligent
systems to create insights.
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer
Retailers can’t efficiently
retrieve or extract intelligent
data on sustainability.
PP
0.4
RC
0.4-1
RC
0.4-2
RC
0.3-4
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
There is a lack of industry
benchmarks for
sustainability criteria
DATA INTELLIGENCE
Data Collection
& Verification
Actor | Retailer, Supplier,
Assurance
Data about sustainability is
buried in docs, PDF’s, excels in
unstructured folder systems,
making it hard to use intelligent
systems to create insights.
RC
0.3-3
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Supplier
It is challenging to quantify the
value and ROI of sustainability
investments
RC
0.3-1
RC
0.3-2
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Absence of clear business
strategy for sustainability and
priority within an organization
& the ecosystem in general
(mission & vision).
GUIDANCE
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Retailers and suppliers find it challenging to
work out where to focus their investment in
terms of sustainability.
PP
0.3
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Long term and non-monetary
ROI in sustainability.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
It’s challenging to justify
investment in strategic
supplier’s sustainability
because of the need to be
agile & flexible to source.
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Lack of standard processes to
measure the KPI. Internal retailer
teams define contradicting KPI’s
in their silos and have different
priorities.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Retailers/suppliers are not able
to prove/show sustainability ROI
(investment in factories, tech,
waste, toxic management).
PP
0.5
RC
0.5-1
RC
0.5-2
RC
0.5-3
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
It is challenging to quantify
the value and ROI of
sustainability investments.
RC
0.7-2
STRATEGY
Company ROI
& Impact
Actor | Retailer
Retailers don’t pay premium
to suppliers in exchange for their
sustainability efforts because
of the cost pressure.
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Supplier
Suppliers don’t see ROI of their
sustainability efforts.
PP
0.7
RC
0.7-1
COLLABORATION
Upstream
Communication
Actor | Retailer
Open costing is not preferred
by suppliers. Sharing some
critical data could impact
competitive advantage.
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer
Providing additional
information can lead to
additional scrutiny.
RC
0.6-3
RC
0.6-4
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Both retailer and supplier
are reluctant to become
transparent due to fear
of being exposed.
RC
0.6-2
STRATEGY
Eco-system Practices
Actor | Retailer, Supplier
Both retailers and suppliers
are unclear about how the
shared data will be used.
RC
0.6-1
TRANSPARENCY
Actor | Retailer,
Supplier
Suppliers and retailers resist being transparent.
PP
0.6
Pain Points are always user centric
Pain points are general
Root causes are always system centric
Root causes are specific
System map
—
And when we dive into problems at this level, we iden@fy a number of problems and we categorise them into different groups : and then inves@ga@ng the root causes (CAW), of each problem.
And that gives us a workable group of problems. These would be;
-Collabora@on of manufacturers and brands
-Transparency within the supply chain
-Reliability of the audit process
-Being strategic around reusing the data in an ethically responsible way.
-And the workload of suppliers.
This is only a segment of these bigger problems. This seems easy to fix but no one can make the move without support of the others. But it need to be updated.
31. We have been teaching people how to use
technology, now we are training technology to work
with humans in their own environment.
Thank you
Nur Karadeniz
Join our linked in Group: System Design Practice
@nurdeniz
www.accenture.com/us-en/company-dublin-innovation-centre-the-dock
linkedin.com/in/nurkaradeniz
32. References
• The Dock WebsiteL h_ps://www.accenture.com/ie-en/company-dublin-innova@on-centre-the-dock
• Inside The Dock: h_ps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9bsuZR62ug
• Dock Project - Blockchain based digital ID for the UN: h_ps://www.accenture.com/ie-en/blogs/blogs-accenture-
id2020
• h_ps://www.accenture.com/th-en/insight-blockchain-id2020
• Industrial mash up - merging efforts to offer new services: h_ps://www.ey.com/en_gl/growth/is-collabora@on-the-
new-innova@on
• How emerging tech changing the world: Podcast with CEO of Novamente, Yves Bergquist
• VUCA: h_ps://hbr.org/2014/01/what-vuca-really-means-for-you
• h_ps://www.fastcompany.com/90342596/schools-are-quietly-turning-to-ai-to-help-pick-who-gets-in-what-could-go-
wrong?utm_campaign=Compass&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Revue%20newsle_er
• h_ps://www.s@tcher.com/podcast/garen-moreno/departure-unknown/e/7-how-ar@ficial-intelligence-is-changing-
the-world-with-yves-48663384
• Systems Thinking: h_ps://www.disruptdesign.co/blog/7-systems-thinking-benefits-that-every-organiza@on-needs