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Raised Bed Gardening; Gardening Guidebook for Fairbanks, Alaska

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School Vegetable Gardening - Victory Gardens
School Vegetable Gardening - Victory Gardens

Raised Bed Gardening; Gardening Guidebook for Fairbanks, Alaska ~ University of Alaska ~ For more information, Please see websites below: ` Organic Edible Schoolyards & Gardening with Children = http://scribd.com/doc/239851214 ~ ` Double Food Production from your School Garden with Organic Tech = http://scribd.com/doc/239851079 ~ ` Free School Gardening Art Posters = http://scribd.com/doc/239851159 ~ ` Increase Food Production with Companion Planting in your School Garden = http://scribd.com/doc/239851159 ~ ` Healthy Foods Dramatically Improves Student Academic Success = http://scribd.com/doc/239851348 ~ ` City Chickens for your Organic School Garden = http://scribd.com/doc/239850440 ~ ` Huerto Ecológico, Tecnologías Sostenibles, Agricultura Organica http://scribd.com/doc/239850233 ` Simple Square Foot Gardening for Schools - Teacher Guide = http://scribd.com/doc/239851110

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Alaska’s climate and geographical di­versity create many challenges for the home gardener. Cold soils, excessive or inadequate rainfall and poor soil conditions are among the more challenging aspects of gardening in many areas. Raised bed gardening can help overcome the problems of wet, cold and poorly drained soils. Gardeners who do not have a garden spot located in a south-sloping, well-drained, sunny area can use raised beds with produc- tive results. Benefits of raised beds: yy Plant growth is enhanced through soil warming, which results from an increased drainage capability and an increase in the exposure of the soil surface to the direct rays of the sun. yy Productive growing areas can be developed in loca- tions where con­ventional gardening tech­niques are not possible. Raised beds reduce the effort and back bend- ing involved in planting, weeding and harvesting. yy Many raised beds are intensively managed and there- fore have high production rates per square foot. Before you build raised beds, either mounded or framed, have the soil tested to determine what fertilizer and liming additives are needed. The soil test will help you determine the amount of lime required to raise the soil pH and the type and amount of fertilizer needed for sustained plant growth. Materials are usually added to increase the soil fertility or air exchange and water drainage characteristics of the soil. Some materials used are sand, compost, manure and peat moss. Use a rototiller or spade to mix the lime, fertilizers and other materials into the soil. A raised bed garden can be as simple as a mound of soil that is higher than the surrounding soil level. Or, you can mound the soil in a framework of lumber, like a bottom- less box. The simpler form of raised bed is constructed by mound- ing soil into a ridge approximately 12 inches high with sloping sides and top surface 18 to 24 inches wide (see figure 1). This ridging method provides the benefits of a raised bed and requires less energy and expense. The dis- advantage is that it may erode and the sloping sides may have to be rebuilt after heavy rain or wind. Some of the advantages of the ridging technique can be achieved by digging parallel walkways into the existing garden plot and placing the soil from the walkways onto the plant growing area. The sides of the walkways (ditch- es) should be sloped to prevent soil collapse. A framed raised bed offers all the advantages of a mounded raised bed without the problems of erosion or soil move- ment. It also provides an elevated working platform for planting and weeding. The framework for the bed should be built so the soil does not bend or dislodge the frame. Build the frame of 2 × 12s securely fastened at the corners. At 2- to 4-foot intervals either drive stakes into the ground or use cross members on the bottom of the frame to pre- vent bowing from the pressure of the soil (see figure 2). The wood can be treated with a wood preservative to prevent rot. (Note: Do not use creosote and pentachloro- phenol because these chemicals may damage plants upon contact.) A frame liner of polyethylene can be used to keep the soil from direct contact with the wood. The dimensions of the raised bed depend upon a number of factors: space available, anticipated production, materi- als available and the size of the garden. The width should be such that the gardener can comfortably reach to the middle from either side. In wet climates this should not exceed 48 inches to provide good drainage. A width of 36 inches is better yet. Prepare the soil and fill the frame to about 12 inches deep. The amount of soil required can be de­termined by the con- Raised Bed Gardening In Alaska HGA-00132 Figure 1. Built-up rows.
tached to the bed by lath or by grommets placed along the bottom edge of the sheeting and secured over nails along the bed (see figure 4). Place the beds so the plants can take fullest advantage of avail- able sunlight. Arrange plants so one plant does not shade another as it grows. The air and soil temperature under the cover can increase dramatically during a sunny day and get so hot the plants can be damaged or killed. Ventilation slits and open ends in the polyethylene sheeting help avoid exces- sive heat buildup, which could damage the plants. Com- plete removal of the sheeting may sometimes be neces- sary. When the growing season is over, the polyethylene sheeting can be removed and stored for the next season. Many gardeners grow crops under floating row cover instead of polyethylene film. Floating row cover is a trans- lucent, lightweight polyester fabric that is placed directly over transplants. The edges of the floating row cover are secured by pieces of wood or stones. Sufficient slack is allowed for plants to grow under the row cover. Floating row covers provide protection from many flying insects and from wind, and they also increase the air and soil temperatures beneath them. Tilling or turning the soil will help reduce future populations of slugs and root maggots by bringing the eggs and pupae to the surface where they are exposed to changing weather conditions and potential predators. Covering the soil surface with spruce boughs or seaweed can reduce soil puddling and compacting resulting from fall and spring rains. Many garden crops thrive in raised beds. These include lettuce, radishes, Swiss chard, carrots, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, beets, turnips, zucchini, peas, pota- toes and, in the warmer areas, tomatoes, cucumbers and beans. Using raised beds can provide the gardener with increased production and decreased maintenance. tainer dimensions — length × width × height. A container 20 feet long, 3 feet wide and 1 foot deep will require 2.2 cubic yards: 20 feet × 3 feet × 1 feet = 60 cubic feet ÷ 27 feet (1 cubic yard) = 2.2 cubic yards. Place the constructed frames in a loca­tion with a suitable growing environment and adequate drainage. Multiple beds should be placed at least 24 inches apart to provide a walkway. A board placed across this space gives the gar- dener a comfortable place to sit or kneel while working. A gravel walkway will provide a cleaner, drier walkway throughout the season (see figure 3). Alternately, flatten corrugated cardboard and place on the walkway. Then place 2 inches of wood chips on the carboard. An addition that can increase the ef­ficiency of raised beds is a simple technique that produces a greenhouse effect: hood the bed with a clear polyethylene film row cover supported by a framework of hoops of 12-gauge wire or PVC pipe at least ¾ inch attached to the sides of the wooden frame. This technique increases soil and air tempera­ture, reduces the amount of rain on the bed in ar- eas of excessive rainfall and reduces moisture evaporation in areas of insufficient rainfall. Temperature control extends the growing season. A 4-mil polyethylene or fiberglass- reinforced polyethylene should be used to avoid wind damage. The sheeting can be at- Figure 2. Framework for raised gardens. Figure 3. Placement of frames. Figure 4. Temperature and moisture control. 1-90/JD/2000 Reprinted September 2011 America's Arctic University The University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service programs are available to all, without regard to race, color, age, sex, creed, national origin, or dis- ability and in accordance with all applicable federal laws. Provided in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Fred Schlutt, Director of Cooperative Extension Service, University of Alaska Fairbanks. The University of Alaska Fairbanks is an affirmative action/equal opportunity employer and educational institution. ©2011 University of Alaska Fairbanks. This publication may be photocopied or reprinted in its entirety for noncommercial purposes. For more information, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service office or Robert Gorman, Extension Faculty, Natural Resources and Community Development, at rfgorman@alaska.edu or 907-747-9413. This publication was originally developed in 1990 by Jim Douglas, former Extension Resource Development and Youth Agent, and Ken Mitchell, Master Gardener. Revised by Gorman in 2011. Visit the Cooperative Extension Service website at www.uaf.edu/ces or call 1-877-520-5211 18"

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Raised Bed Gardening; Gardening Guidebook for Fairbanks, Alaska

  • 1. Alaska’s climate and geographical di­versity create many challenges for the home gardener. Cold soils, excessive or inadequate rainfall and poor soil conditions are among the more challenging aspects of gardening in many areas. Raised bed gardening can help overcome the problems of wet, cold and poorly drained soils. Gardeners who do not have a garden spot located in a south-sloping, well-drained, sunny area can use raised beds with produc- tive results. Benefits of raised beds: yy Plant growth is enhanced through soil warming, which results from an increased drainage capability and an increase in the exposure of the soil surface to the direct rays of the sun. yy Productive growing areas can be developed in loca- tions where con­ventional gardening tech­niques are not possible. Raised beds reduce the effort and back bend- ing involved in planting, weeding and harvesting. yy Many raised beds are intensively managed and there- fore have high production rates per square foot. Before you build raised beds, either mounded or framed, have the soil tested to determine what fertilizer and liming additives are needed. The soil test will help you determine the amount of lime required to raise the soil pH and the type and amount of fertilizer needed for sustained plant growth. Materials are usually added to increase the soil fertility or air exchange and water drainage characteristics of the soil. Some materials used are sand, compost, manure and peat moss. Use a rototiller or spade to mix the lime, fertilizers and other materials into the soil. A raised bed garden can be as simple as a mound of soil that is higher than the surrounding soil level. Or, you can mound the soil in a framework of lumber, like a bottom- less box. The simpler form of raised bed is constructed by mound- ing soil into a ridge approximately 12 inches high with sloping sides and top surface 18 to 24 inches wide (see figure 1). This ridging method provides the benefits of a raised bed and requires less energy and expense. The dis- advantage is that it may erode and the sloping sides may have to be rebuilt after heavy rain or wind. Some of the advantages of the ridging technique can be achieved by digging parallel walkways into the existing garden plot and placing the soil from the walkways onto the plant growing area. The sides of the walkways (ditch- es) should be sloped to prevent soil collapse. A framed raised bed offers all the advantages of a mounded raised bed without the problems of erosion or soil move- ment. It also provides an elevated working platform for planting and weeding. The framework for the bed should be built so the soil does not bend or dislodge the frame. Build the frame of 2 × 12s securely fastened at the corners. At 2- to 4-foot intervals either drive stakes into the ground or use cross members on the bottom of the frame to pre- vent bowing from the pressure of the soil (see figure 2). The wood can be treated with a wood preservative to prevent rot. (Note: Do not use creosote and pentachloro- phenol because these chemicals may damage plants upon contact.) A frame liner of polyethylene can be used to keep the soil from direct contact with the wood. The dimensions of the raised bed depend upon a number of factors: space available, anticipated production, materi- als available and the size of the garden. The width should be such that the gardener can comfortably reach to the middle from either side. In wet climates this should not exceed 48 inches to provide good drainage. A width of 36 inches is better yet. Prepare the soil and fill the frame to about 12 inches deep. The amount of soil required can be de­termined by the con- Raised Bed Gardening In Alaska HGA-00132 Figure 1. Built-up rows.
  • 2. tached to the bed by lath or by grommets placed along the bottom edge of the sheeting and secured over nails along the bed (see figure 4). Place the beds so the plants can take fullest advantage of avail- able sunlight. Arrange plants so one plant does not shade another as it grows. The air and soil temperature under the cover can increase dramatically during a sunny day and get so hot the plants can be damaged or killed. Ventilation slits and open ends in the polyethylene sheeting help avoid exces- sive heat buildup, which could damage the plants. Com- plete removal of the sheeting may sometimes be neces- sary. When the growing season is over, the polyethylene sheeting can be removed and stored for the next season. Many gardeners grow crops under floating row cover instead of polyethylene film. Floating row cover is a trans- lucent, lightweight polyester fabric that is placed directly over transplants. The edges of the floating row cover are secured by pieces of wood or stones. Sufficient slack is allowed for plants to grow under the row cover. Floating row covers provide protection from many flying insects and from wind, and they also increase the air and soil temperatures beneath them. Tilling or turning the soil will help reduce future populations of slugs and root maggots by bringing the eggs and pupae to the surface where they are exposed to changing weather conditions and potential predators. Covering the soil surface with spruce boughs or seaweed can reduce soil puddling and compacting resulting from fall and spring rains. Many garden crops thrive in raised beds. These include lettuce, radishes, Swiss chard, carrots, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, beets, turnips, zucchini, peas, pota- toes and, in the warmer areas, tomatoes, cucumbers and beans. Using raised beds can provide the gardener with increased production and decreased maintenance. tainer dimensions — length × width × height. A container 20 feet long, 3 feet wide and 1 foot deep will require 2.2 cubic yards: 20 feet × 3 feet × 1 feet = 60 cubic feet ÷ 27 feet (1 cubic yard) = 2.2 cubic yards. Place the constructed frames in a loca­tion with a suitable growing environment and adequate drainage. Multiple beds should be placed at least 24 inches apart to provide a walkway. A board placed across this space gives the gar- dener a comfortable place to sit or kneel while working. A gravel walkway will provide a cleaner, drier walkway throughout the season (see figure 3). Alternately, flatten corrugated cardboard and place on the walkway. Then place 2 inches of wood chips on the carboard. An addition that can increase the ef­ficiency of raised beds is a simple technique that produces a greenhouse effect: hood the bed with a clear polyethylene film row cover supported by a framework of hoops of 12-gauge wire or PVC pipe at least ¾ inch attached to the sides of the wooden frame. This technique increases soil and air tempera­ture, reduces the amount of rain on the bed in ar- eas of excessive rainfall and reduces moisture evaporation in areas of insufficient rainfall. Temperature control extends the growing season. A 4-mil polyethylene or fiberglass- reinforced polyethylene should be used to avoid wind damage. The sheeting can be at- Figure 2. Framework for raised gardens. Figure 3. Placement of frames. Figure 4. Temperature and moisture control. 1-90/JD/2000 Reprinted September 2011 America's Arctic University The University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service programs are available to all, without regard to race, color, age, sex, creed, national origin, or dis- ability and in accordance with all applicable federal laws. Provided in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Fred Schlutt, Director of Cooperative Extension Service, University of Alaska Fairbanks. The University of Alaska Fairbanks is an affirmative action/equal opportunity employer and educational institution. ©2011 University of Alaska Fairbanks. This publication may be photocopied or reprinted in its entirety for noncommercial purposes. For more information, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service office or Robert Gorman, Extension Faculty, Natural Resources and Community Development, at rfgorman@alaska.edu or 907-747-9413. This publication was originally developed in 1990 by Jim Douglas, former Extension Resource Development and Youth Agent, and Ken Mitchell, Master Gardener. Revised by Gorman in 2011. Visit the Cooperative Extension Service website at www.uaf.edu/ces or call 1-877-520-5211 18"