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Interlining Procedure (Types & Methods)

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ABU TALEB TARAQUE
ABU TALEB TARAQUE

This document discusses different types of interlinings used in garment construction and their application methods. There are two main types of interlinings - sewn and fusible. Fusible interlinings are attached using heat and pressure to fuse a resin coating. The document describes various fusible interlining materials and coating types, as well as advantages of fusible interlinings over sewn for mass production. Flat bed and continuous machines are introduced as methods to fuse interlinings, with different heating, pressure and speed controls for each. Quality control factors like temperature, pressure and bonding strength are also outlined.

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Interlining  Layer of fabric inserted between the face and the back of a garment Cause of using interlining: ► to support, reinforce and control areas of garments and to retain actual shape of the garment component. ► To make the particular component beautiful, strong and attractive. ►To get better hand feel and better performance
Types of Interlining: a. Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining b. Fusible Interlining a. Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining: Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining which could b fixed with a garment component by sewing Advantages of sewn interlining:  1. Flame retardant garments can be made in this process.  2. Simple and easy technique.  3. No need of using special machine
Sewn Interlining  Disadvantages of sewn interlining:  1. Quality is poor and appearance is not same to all the garments as it made by sewing.  2. Not suitable for large scale production.  3. Not readily available in the market.  4. It requires comparatively more time.  5. It is a highly labor intensive process.
Fusible Interlining:  attached with the garment component by fusing resin applying heat and pressure for certain time  resin gives the desired bond Advantages of Fusible Interlining: 1. Comparatively better appearance, shape retention and better performance. 2. Easy to produce same quality product. 3. Fusible interlining is readily available in the market. 4. Comparatively cheap. 5. As fusing time is less, labor cost is low and production is high. 6. Overall performance is better than non-fusible 7. As technique is easy, no need of skilled operator to operate the machine.
Fusible Interlining Disadvantage of Fusible Interlining: ▪ High temperature and pressure is required. So, special care is needed. ▪ Initial investment is relatively higher.
Required properties of Fusible Interlining  Temperature must not be too high that may damage the outer fabric or its color  Temperature must not be too low that may lead weak bonding between base fabric and outer fabric  Bonding strength should suitably resist washing or dry cleaning  Adjustment of temp, time pressure and type of resin should be such that strike through or strike back must not be happened.  It must provide desired hand feel  should not be hazardous for health  color should be white in common cases and it should be transparent  should have low dye retention properties
Types of Fusible Interlining: 1. Polyethylene coated Interlining ● Here polyethylene is used as resin coating ● It is used in collar, cuff and waist band. ●The fabric is attached with this type of interlining is water washable. 2. Polyamide coated Interlining ● Here polyamide is used as resin coating ● Polyamide is widely used for dry cleanable garments. ● It may be water washable but washing temperature should not exceed 60˚C. 3. PVC coated Interlining ● Here polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is used as resin coating. ● It is both dry cleanable and water washable. Polyamide is wide used for dry cleanable garments. ● This resin is generally applied on the base fabric as a plasticized paste.
Types of Fusible Interlining: 4. Polyester coated Interlining ● Here polyester is used as resin coating. ● It is both dry cleanable and water washable. ● This type of resin can be applied in all kinds of fabric. ● It is called ideal interlining. ●It is an expensive interlining 5. Polypropylene coated Interlining ● Here polypropylene is used as resin coating. ● Fabric attached with this type of resin is only washable in water ● Comparatively high fusing temperature is required. 6. PVA coated Interlining ● Here polyvinyl acetate (PVA) is used as resin. ● It is not dry cleanable and has limited wash ability. ● It requires low temperature and pressure. ● This type of resin is normally in the form of continuous coating fo fusing leather. ● Very limited use in textile industry.
Conditions of Fusing 1. Luster: fusing should pose the desired luster in the finished garme 2. Strength: strength of the bond of the laminate should be sufficien so that fabric of that is attached with interlining would not be separated. Bond strength should be equal or greater to the life time of the garments 3. Correct Fusing: Fusing must take place without causing strike throug or strike back
Conditions of Fusing 4. Compression by temperature: Fusing range is 150˚C to 175˚C. Outer fabric may shrink in that temperature. During fusing, care must be taken to avoid any kind of shrinkage. Otherwise produced component may be short than the desired size 5. Color of the fabric: During fusing, the color of the fused parts must not be changed. If the color of the fused parts be changed, within garments shade variation may found 6. Similarity in external shape: Pile fabric may bend in fusing due to high temperature. If that happens, fused and unfused fabrics can be seen different in external shape. Care must be taken to get similarity in the external appearance. 7. Special Characteristics: The fusing process must not damage of special properties of fabric that has been developed by finishing.
Quality Control in fusing  Temperature: Fusing fabric manufactures usually advice the suitable temperature for perfect fusing. Fusing temperature depends on the types of fusing. Too low or too much temperature gives poor bonding and strike through/strike back respectively. Certain temperature is set for the certain interlining. Temperature may be tested by two ways, portable pyrometre and thermopaper.  Pressure: The pressure should be uniform and sufficient during fusing to get uniform bonding strength.  Fusing time: The equipment must give enough time to allow the temperature and pressure to induce melting of the resin and penetration of the outer fabric in order to produce a satisfactory bond. Fusing time may set prior fusing. Stop watch may also be used to determine the fusing time.
Quality Control in fusing  Pilling strenght: Melted resin of the base fabric attached with the outer fabric. The bonding strength between the outer fabric and interlining is checked and compared with the standard one. A sample of 5x15 cm is taken from fused interling and measured its bonding strength by tensile testing machine.  Dry cleaning or washing: Changing in appearance or changing in bond strenght by washing or by dry cleaning must be checked.
Methods of fusing:  1. Hand Iron  2. Flat bed fusing machine  3. Continuous fusing Machine  4. High frequency fusing machine 1. Hand Iron: In this method, fusing of interlining is done by hand iron to small components like cuff, collar etc. In this method, temperature, pressure and pressing time can not be controlled perfectly.
Flat bed fusing press Features:  This type of machine contains two components. these as (a) Head and (b) Buck.  The head is spring loaded and movable and buck remains fixed.  Buck is covered with soft mat which is prepared with fabric, blanket or silicon rubber.  Both surface of buck and head is covered with PTFE.  Head is heated with current or steam.  Sometimes heating arrangement is joined with buck
Flat bed fusing press Working principle:  At first the part of the garment to be fused and spread over flately on the buck and the resin coated interlining is placed on it correctly.  The head is gradually lowered on the buck by switch and the required pressure is applied and heating is done uniformly on the surface of the buck.  Head is separated from the buck after applying heat and pressure till predermined time.  Then the suction chamber sucks air from the buck.  After sucking the air, the interlining becomes cold and fuses in the fabrics permanently.
Flat bed fusing press  Advantages:  Temperature, pressure and fusing time is adjustable.  Easier process and most commonly used.  Low cost.  Tends to reduce fabric shrinkage.  Disadvantage: Not suitable for large scale production. Needs checking of fusing condition after certain period
Continuous fusing press machine Features:  The machine consists of a fusing chamber with continuous belt or feed sheet.  The heating chamber is controlled by a switch.  Two pressure rollers are in the fusing chamber and roller pressure are produced by spring or pneumatic power and have condition to increase or decrease of required heat.
Continuous fusing press machine  Working principle:  In this machine, interlining is placed between two layers of the fabric and passed to the fusing chamber.  In fusing chamber, the required heat and pressures are applied.  Direct heating or indirect heating are applied for heating the interlining.  After heating, required pressure are applied by two pressure rollers.  The fusing time is cotrolled by controlling the speed of feed sheet.  Then the fabric is taken out from the fusing chamber
Continuous fusing press machine Advantages: Mostly used in country. Higher production. Good quality fusing. Very suitable for pile fabric using. No possibility of fabric shrinkage. Disadvantages: High cost. Large space required. Different bond strength of fused parts
Continuous Fusing Machine
Flat Bed Fusing Machine

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Interlining Procedure (Types & Methods)

  • 1. Interlining  Layer of fabric inserted between the face and the back of a garment Cause of using interlining: ► to support, reinforce and control areas of garments and to retain actual shape of the garment component. ► To make the particular component beautiful, strong and attractive. ►To get better hand feel and better performance
  • 2. Types of Interlining: a. Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining b. Fusible Interlining a. Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining: Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining which could b fixed with a garment component by sewing Advantages of sewn interlining:  1. Flame retardant garments can be made in this process.  2. Simple and easy technique.  3. No need of using special machine
  • 3. Sewn Interlining  Disadvantages of sewn interlining:  1. Quality is poor and appearance is not same to all the garments as it made by sewing.  2. Not suitable for large scale production.  3. Not readily available in the market.  4. It requires comparatively more time.  5. It is a highly labor intensive process.
  • 4. Fusible Interlining:  attached with the garment component by fusing resin applying heat and pressure for certain time  resin gives the desired bond Advantages of Fusible Interlining: 1. Comparatively better appearance, shape retention and better performance. 2. Easy to produce same quality product. 3. Fusible interlining is readily available in the market. 4. Comparatively cheap. 5. As fusing time is less, labor cost is low and production is high. 6. Overall performance is better than non-fusible 7. As technique is easy, no need of skilled operator to operate the machine.
  • 5. Fusible Interlining Disadvantage of Fusible Interlining: ▪ High temperature and pressure is required. So, special care is needed. ▪ Initial investment is relatively higher.
  • 6. Required properties of Fusible Interlining  Temperature must not be too high that may damage the outer fabric or its color  Temperature must not be too low that may lead weak bonding between base fabric and outer fabric  Bonding strength should suitably resist washing or dry cleaning  Adjustment of temp, time pressure and type of resin should be such that strike through or strike back must not be happened.  It must provide desired hand feel  should not be hazardous for health  color should be white in common cases and it should be transparent  should have low dye retention properties
  • 7. Types of Fusible Interlining: 1. Polyethylene coated Interlining ● Here polyethylene is used as resin coating ● It is used in collar, cuff and waist band. ●The fabric is attached with this type of interlining is water washable. 2. Polyamide coated Interlining ● Here polyamide is used as resin coating ● Polyamide is widely used for dry cleanable garments. ● It may be water washable but washing temperature should not exceed 60˚C. 3. PVC coated Interlining ● Here polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is used as resin coating. ● It is both dry cleanable and water washable. Polyamide is wide used for dry cleanable garments. ● This resin is generally applied on the base fabric as a plasticized paste.
  • 8. Types of Fusible Interlining: 4. Polyester coated Interlining ● Here polyester is used as resin coating. ● It is both dry cleanable and water washable. ● This type of resin can be applied in all kinds of fabric. ● It is called ideal interlining. ●It is an expensive interlining 5. Polypropylene coated Interlining ● Here polypropylene is used as resin coating. ● Fabric attached with this type of resin is only washable in water ● Comparatively high fusing temperature is required. 6. PVA coated Interlining ● Here polyvinyl acetate (PVA) is used as resin. ● It is not dry cleanable and has limited wash ability. ● It requires low temperature and pressure. ● This type of resin is normally in the form of continuous coating fo fusing leather. ● Very limited use in textile industry.
  • 9. Conditions of Fusing 1. Luster: fusing should pose the desired luster in the finished garme 2. Strength: strength of the bond of the laminate should be sufficien so that fabric of that is attached with interlining would not be separated. Bond strength should be equal or greater to the life time of the garments 3. Correct Fusing: Fusing must take place without causing strike throug or strike back
  • 10. Conditions of Fusing 4. Compression by temperature: Fusing range is 150˚C to 175˚C. Outer fabric may shrink in that temperature. During fusing, care must be taken to avoid any kind of shrinkage. Otherwise produced component may be short than the desired size 5. Color of the fabric: During fusing, the color of the fused parts must not be changed. If the color of the fused parts be changed, within garments shade variation may found 6. Similarity in external shape: Pile fabric may bend in fusing due to high temperature. If that happens, fused and unfused fabrics can be seen different in external shape. Care must be taken to get similarity in the external appearance. 7. Special Characteristics: The fusing process must not damage of special properties of fabric that has been developed by finishing.
  • 11. Quality Control in fusing  Temperature: Fusing fabric manufactures usually advice the suitable temperature for perfect fusing. Fusing temperature depends on the types of fusing. Too low or too much temperature gives poor bonding and strike through/strike back respectively. Certain temperature is set for the certain interlining. Temperature may be tested by two ways, portable pyrometre and thermopaper.  Pressure: The pressure should be uniform and sufficient during fusing to get uniform bonding strength.  Fusing time: The equipment must give enough time to allow the temperature and pressure to induce melting of the resin and penetration of the outer fabric in order to produce a satisfactory bond. Fusing time may set prior fusing. Stop watch may also be used to determine the fusing time.
  • 12. Quality Control in fusing  Pilling strenght: Melted resin of the base fabric attached with the outer fabric. The bonding strength between the outer fabric and interlining is checked and compared with the standard one. A sample of 5x15 cm is taken from fused interling and measured its bonding strength by tensile testing machine.  Dry cleaning or washing: Changing in appearance or changing in bond strenght by washing or by dry cleaning must be checked.
  • 13. Methods of fusing:  1. Hand Iron  2. Flat bed fusing machine  3. Continuous fusing Machine  4. High frequency fusing machine 1. Hand Iron: In this method, fusing of interlining is done by hand iron to small components like cuff, collar etc. In this method, temperature, pressure and pressing time can not be controlled perfectly.
  • 14. Flat bed fusing press Features:  This type of machine contains two components. these as (a) Head and (b) Buck.  The head is spring loaded and movable and buck remains fixed.  Buck is covered with soft mat which is prepared with fabric, blanket or silicon rubber.  Both surface of buck and head is covered with PTFE.  Head is heated with current or steam.  Sometimes heating arrangement is joined with buck
  • 15. Flat bed fusing press Working principle:  At first the part of the garment to be fused and spread over flately on the buck and the resin coated interlining is placed on it correctly.  The head is gradually lowered on the buck by switch and the required pressure is applied and heating is done uniformly on the surface of the buck.  Head is separated from the buck after applying heat and pressure till predermined time.  Then the suction chamber sucks air from the buck.  After sucking the air, the interlining becomes cold and fuses in the fabrics permanently.
  • 16. Flat bed fusing press  Advantages:  Temperature, pressure and fusing time is adjustable.  Easier process and most commonly used.  Low cost.  Tends to reduce fabric shrinkage.  Disadvantage: Not suitable for large scale production. Needs checking of fusing condition after certain period
  • 17. Continuous fusing press machine Features:  The machine consists of a fusing chamber with continuous belt or feed sheet.  The heating chamber is controlled by a switch.  Two pressure rollers are in the fusing chamber and roller pressure are produced by spring or pneumatic power and have condition to increase or decrease of required heat.
  • 18. Continuous fusing press machine  Working principle:  In this machine, interlining is placed between two layers of the fabric and passed to the fusing chamber.  In fusing chamber, the required heat and pressures are applied.  Direct heating or indirect heating are applied for heating the interlining.  After heating, required pressure are applied by two pressure rollers.  The fusing time is cotrolled by controlling the speed of feed sheet.  Then the fabric is taken out from the fusing chamber
  • 19. Continuous fusing press machine Advantages: Mostly used in country. Higher production. Good quality fusing. Very suitable for pile fabric using. No possibility of fabric shrinkage. Disadvantages: High cost. Large space required. Different bond strength of fused parts
  • 21. Flat Bed Fusing Machine