Victoria Musvik

In 2020, the world will celebrate the 40th anniversary of Roland Barthes's «Camera Lucida». In spite of all the criticism that it has encountered since 1980, many ideas that he develops in the book are still popular among the researchers. In this article, I am going to look at the corpus of images that Barthes is analyzing in this text. His choice seems a paradoxical one: creating a revolutionary affective discourse of research in photography theory, he analyzes mostly conventional modernist documentary black and white photography «with a referent» made by male authors. Such choice gives an opportunity to Barthes, who is going through the process of grief, to control the affective: he can feel at the same time certain affective pricks (punctum) and the calming effects of containment. Later, postmodernism criticised and deconstructed photography theories and practices of the previous epoch for their sexism, racism, elitism etc. Part of this process was the creation of «pictures w...

В статье обсуждается одежда как "знак пола" в Англии конца 16 века. Делается попытка соединить вместе две параллельные дискуссии, ведущиеся в контексте исследования "войны памфлетов" у театроведов и теоретиков литературы. С одной стороны, рассматривается мотив переодевания на елизаветинской сцене (кросс-дрессинг) с точки зрения опасений радикальных протестантов по поводу "феминизации мужчины", подвижности границ пола и легкого превращения актера-юноши в женщину путем надевания костюма, имитации ее жестов и манер. С другой стороны, исследуются нападки в тех же трактатах на художественный вымысел и традиция "защиты поэзии". Объединяет две темы вопрос, который ставят создатели памфлетов: может ли привлекательная оболочка смешаться с сутью и ухудшить человеческую душу или же одежду можно спокойно надевать и снимать, объединив цели наслаждения и преподнесения морального урока. В конце статьи делается попытка понять причины популярности исследований кросс-дрессинга в 21 веке, а также рассматривается ряд современных фотографических "костюмных проектов" о 16 веке на стыке вымысла и истории. 

This article deals with costume as 'gender signs' in Elizabethan England and brings together two parallel research trends that deal with 'pamphlet wars' in theater studies and literary theory. On the one hand, this article looks at cross-dressing in Elizabethan theater and the fears about 'effeminization', mutability of gender boundaries and transformation of a man into a woman by putting on her dresses and imitating manners. On the other hand, attacks and defenses of poetry (poesy) are researched in some detail. These two subjects are then united by the question that is posed in the pamphlets: can an attractive form or a pleasant appearance get mixed with the core and soil reader's/viewer's soul or can we put it on and off like a dress without fear, bringing together the aims of delight and moral lesson? This text also looks at the motives behind contemporary outburst of research on cross-dressing and several 'costume projects' in photography that deal with the 16th- century and unite fiction and historical research.

В статье анализируются четыре типа описаний одежды в романе Филипа Сидни "Аркадия". Рассматривается парадокс одновременной увлеченности автора занятиями историей и повышения степени условности от первого ко второму вариантам романа.

In this article I analyze four types of dress descriptions in Philip Sidney's Arcadia and the paradox of his growing interest in historical studies and simultaneous expansion of fictive elements in the New Arcadia.

... 1549. Victoria Musvik's essay, focusing on diplomatic relations between the Elizabethan and Russian courts, opens up new perspectives on the mutual perception of working systems of reference by the respective 'Other'. A somewhat ...