Palgrave Advances in Luxury Series Editors Paurav Shukla Southampton Business School University of Southampton Southampton, UK Jaywant Singh Kingston Business School Kingston University Kingston Upon Thames, UK The field of luxury studies increasingly encompasses a variety of perspectives not just limited to marketing and brand management. In recent times, a host of novel and topical issues on luxury such as sustainability, counterfeiting, emulation and consumption trends have gained prominence which draw on the fields of entrepreneurship, sociology, psychology and operations. Examining international trends from China, Asia, Europe, North America and the MENA region, Palgrave Advances in Luxury is the first series dedicated to this complex issue. Including multiple perspectives whilst being very much grounded in business, its aim is to offer an integrated picture of the management environment in which luxury operates. It explores the newer debates relating to luxury consumption such as the signals used in expressing luxury, the socially divisive nature of luxury and the socio-economic segmentation that it brings. Filling a significant gap in our knowledge of this field, the series will help readers comprehend the significant management challenges unique to this construct. More information about this series at http://www.palgrave.com/gp/series/15396 Isabel Cantista · Teresa Sádaba Editors Understanding Luxury Fashion From Emotions to Brand Building Editors Isabel Cantista Lusíada University of Porto Porto, Portugal Teresa Sádaba ISEM Fashion Business School Madrid, Spain ISSN 2662-1061 ISSN 2662-107X (electronic) Palgrave Advances in Luxury ISBN 978-3-030-25653-1 ISBN 978-3-030-25654-8 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-25654-8 © The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2020 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, expressed or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Cover illustration: MirageC/Moment/Getty Images This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature Switzerland AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland To our Students who share with us the passion for a better Fashion and a better World. To our families who fill our hearts with Joy. Thank you for being there, no matter what. Foreword Understanding Luxury Fashion: From Emotions to Brand Building is not an option in the contemporary world of fashion. It is a necessity due to the outstanding development of luxury products and services in the field of Fashion. In this book, edited by Isabel Cantista and Teresa Sabada, both teaching at University, the luxury dimension in Fashion is explored through ten chapters, mixing theory and case studies, with an international approach. What is particularly interesting is the choice made by the editors to highlight the preeminence of the immaterial perspective on material and tangible aspects. This immaterial dimension is key and deals with the “aspirational” needs related to personal values and the “positional” needs, which are more external and social. This approach leads to a transdisciplinary framework, combining philosophy, psychology, sociology and history, enabling a comprehensive and deep analysis of the phenomenon of luxury fashion. vii viii Foreword However, the current challenges are not ignored, when it comes to the impact of digital technologies and sustainability through the whole fashion value chain. The growing importance of China and Chinese consumers in luxury fashion, all over the world, is also underlined. Dr. Dominique Jacomet Professor & Dean Institut Français de la Mode Paris, France Contents Part I 1 2 Understanding Luxury Fashion: Origins and Contemporary Issues Isabel Cantista and Teresa Sádaba Understanding Luxury: A Philosophical Perspective Marta Mendonça Part II 3 4 Introduction 3 13 Understanding Luxury and Emotions From Mere Luxury to Unique Lifestyle: The Transformation of Taste in the ‘Age of Glamour’ Ambrogia Cereda 31 The Dark Side of Luxury: When Negative Emotions Are Felt by Very Wealthy Consumers Virginie De Barnier and Elyette Roux 63 ix x 5 Contents Future Luxury: Fashioning Wellbeing Through Holistic Design Kirsten Scott Part III 6 Understanding Luxury and Society Sustainable Luxury: The Effect of Corporate Social Responsibility Strategy on Luxury Consumption Motivations Carmela Donato, Matteo De Angelis and Cesare Amatulli 7 Luxury Perfume Brands and Millenial Consumers Aileen Stewart and Lindsey Carey 8 The Evolution of the Chinese Luxury Fashion Consumer: An Interpretive Study of Luxury Value Perceptions Patsy Perry, Liz Barnes and Tiantian Ye Part IV 9 89 123 147 175 Case Studies: Brand Building and Communication Speedy Tuesday: Omega’s Adoption of Communication 4.0 François H. Courvoisier and Claire Roederer 10 Brand Building: The Case of Collaboration Between Javier Carvajal and Loewe Eugenia Josa, María Villanueva and Isabel Cantista 205 221 11 Rapha: Weaving Story Strands of Luxury Catherine Glover 243 Author Index 275 Subject Index 279 Notes on Contributors Cesare Amatulli is Associate Professor of Marketing at the University of Bari, Italy. He has been Visiting Professor at LUISS University, Italy, and Visiting Researcher at the Ross School of Business, USA, and at the University of Hertfordshire, UK. He has published in major international peer-reviewed academic journals, such as Journal of Consumer Research, European Journal of Marketing, Psychology & Marketing and Journal of Business Research. Liz Barnes is a Professor of Fashion Marketing at Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. Her research interests focus on the concept of ‘fast fashion’ in relation to supply chain management, omnichannel retail, fashion marketing communications and the fashion retail environment. She is an Editorial Advisory Board member of the Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and Deputy Chair of the Academy of Marketing’s Fashion Marketing and Consumption SIG. Liz has held a number of senior posts at higher education institutions in the UK and is currently Head of the School of Fashion at Manchester Metropolitan University. xi xii Notes on Contributors Isabel Cantista is Associate Professor of Marketing and Innovation at Universidade Lusíada, Porto, Portugal and a Visiting Professor at ISEM—Fashion Business School, in Madrid. Isabel conducts research projects on fashion innovation and marketing, having published so far several books. She has been invited to be a Key Speaker by organisations like COTANCE—European Confederation of the Leather Industry, or IAF—International Apparel Federation World Conference. In 2008, Isabel created the GFC-Global Fashion Conference®. This international conference aims to bring together academia and industry contributing to the building of knowledge and the sharing of positive experiences with the scope of promoting a sustainable model of development for fashion business. Lindsey Carey is a Senior Lecturer in Consumer Behaviour and Research Methods from Glasgow Caledonian University where she also leads the international development of partnerships. Lindsey’s teaching expertise lies within the discipline of Marketing. She is involved with research in the area of ethical behaviour and sustainability. Another area of interest of Lindsey is in educational research and the impact of mobility on student experience. She is an external examiner, a reviewer for academic journals, member of the scientific committee of a conference and currently a consumer expert for the Mail on Sunday (Scotland). Ambrogia Cereda is a Researcher in Sociology of culture and communication at e-Campus Università Telematica Novedrate, Italy. Ambrogia helds a Ph.D. in Sociology and Methodology of Social Research at the Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore of Milan, where she collaborates with ModaCult, Centre for the study of fashion and cultural production. Ambrogia was involved in research projects on consumption, design and fashion-advertisement. Her main research interest lies in the sociology of the body, with a special concern for the issues related to body image, identity and gender. She is currently developing research in the field of emotion studies. François H. Courvoisier is Ph.D. in economics, graduated from the University of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. François is a Professor at the Notes on Contributors xiii University of Applied Sciences Western Switzerland, where he teaches marketing in the Haute Ecole de Gestion Arc. In 2010, he has co-founded the Institute of Watch Marketing: he manages research projects, events and publications for the watch brands, their partners and suppliers. He has published manuals in marketing and written several articles on watch marketing in scientific journals and in the specialised watch press. He is co-author of ten books specialised in watch marketing published at LEP (Editions Loisirs & Pédagogie). Matteo De Angelis is Associate Professor of Marketing at Luiss University. He got his Ph.D. in Management at the University of Bologna in 2008. He has been Visiting Scholar at Northwestern University in 2007 and Visiting Professor at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee from 2009 to 2012. His articles have appeared in such top journals as Journal of Marketing Research, Journal of Consumer Research, International Journal of Research in Marketing, Journal of Business Ethics, Psychological Science, Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science and Journal of Business Research. He is author of the book Sustainable Luxury Brands edited by Palgrave Macmillan. Virginie De Barnier is a tenured professor at Aix-Marseille Graduate School of Management in France. She also serves as the Dean of this school and is a member of several Aix-Marseille University boards since 2013. She holds degrees in both marketing (Ph.D., M.B.A. and Master’s degree) and psychology (Master’s Degree). Her research interests include studying the links between psychology and marketing. She studies luxury brand management, brand personality and communication. Her work has been presented at many international conferences. She wrote several books and chapters in books and supervises numerous Ph.D. students working on luxury branding issues. Carmela Donato is a post-doc research fellow at Luiss University, Italy. She got her Ph.D. in Economic and Business Administration at University of Calabria (IT) and a Research Master in Business Administration (Marketing profile) at Rijksuniversiteit University of Groningen (NL). Her research has been published in national and xiv Notes on Contributors international peer-reviewed academic journals such as Psychology & Marketing, moreover her research has been presented in major international marketing conferences such as European Marketing Academy Conference, Association Consumer Research and Academy of Marketing Science. Catherine Glover is a Senior Lecturer in Fashion Communication at Northumbria University, UK. She has an industry background working in luxury public relations, design journalism and arts publishing and teaches these specialisms. Her research interests are transnational brand storytelling and how social and brand communities enact story processes that engage and activate grassroots action. Glover has particularly published work looking at the luxury brand Rapha, fashionable cycling and transmitted cultural flows, and reported for many years on the fashion, design and architecture scene in the UK for a Japanese avant-garde audience. Eugenia Josa has a Bachelor’s Degree in Landscape Architecture from the University of Navarra and an Executive M.B.A. in Fashion Business Management from ISEM Fashion Business School. She holds a Ph.D. from the University of Navarra, where her research focused on the design of fashion stores. His doctoral thesis is titled: The Architecture of the Store. The Cases of Javier Carvajal for Loewe. She has presented papers in international conferences and has written a chapter “The Store in the Digital Environment” for the book Fashion in the Digital Environment. At ISEM she is responsible for lecturing and conducting activities within the topic of Creativity. Marta Mendonça is Professor of Philosophy at Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Portugal. Marta holds a Ph.D. from this University with a thesis on The Doctrine of Modalities in the Philosophy of Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz (2001). Her main fields of interest are Modalities, Early Modern Philosophy, Philosophy of Nature and Bioethics. She is author of numerous articles on these topics and visiting professor in different Universities in Portugal, Spain, Brazil, Chile and the United Kingdom. She coordinates a research project on “Comprehension, Explanation and Language” at the CHAM—Center for the Notes on Contributors xv Humanities, research unit of NOVA School of Social Sciences and Humanities. Patsy Perry is a Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing at The University of Manchester, UK. She has published academic journal articles and book chapters from her research on corporate social responsibility and sustainability in fashion, luxury consumption and marketing, and fashion supply chain management. She is an Associate Editor of the Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and has appeared on TV, radio and in the press on the topic of fast fashion sustainability and online fashion retail. She is a Fellow of the Higher Education Academy and has experience of international teaching at academic institutions in Europe and China. Claire Roederer is an Associate Professor of Marketing at EM Strasbourg Business School in France. Graduated from ESCP Europe Paris, she received her Ph.D. in Marketing from the University of Bourgogne (Dijon-France). Her research focuses on experiential consumption, experiential marketing and customer experience. She launched the Customer Experience Chair at EM Strasbourg in 2017 to promote academic research on customer experience. She has published several academic articles and case studies on the topic and written “Marketing and Experiential Consumption” (2013) (Ems Management & Société) and “Experiential Marketing: Toward a Marketing of Cocreation” (2015) with M. Filser (Vuibert, Paris). Elyette Roux was a tenured professor at Aix-Marseille Graduate School of Management in France. She served many years as the director of the CERGAM research centre. Her research interests include brand management, consumers’ relations to brands and luxury brands. Hers book, co-written with the French philosopher Gilles Lipovetsky, The Eternal Luxury, published in paperback and translated into several languages, made her work worldwide known. She supervised many Ph.D. theses and participated to many Ph.D. and HDR juries. She contributed to what she liked to call “the co-construction of knowledge”. Teresa Sádaba has been professor of Political Communications and Legal and Political Institutions at the School of Communication of xvi Notes on Contributors the University of Navarra, where she collaborated in the launch of the Master in Political and Corporate Communications. Teresa is also Professor at the Graduate School of Political Management at George Washington University. Teresa is currently the Dean of ISEM Fashion Business School of the University of Navarra, having launched the doctorate in Applied Creativity. Her research has focused on the theory of Framing, on which she has published numerous articles and two books. She has been a research scholar at different universities. Kirsten Scott is Programme Leader for M.A. Fashion Design Womenswear at Istituto Marangoni in London. Her work as a fashion, textile and accessory designer and lecturer is multidisciplinary and process-led. She completed a Ph.D. in Constructed Textiles at the Royal College of Art in 2012 and has worked for leading international brands. As a passionate maker, Kirsten’s practice asks questions about the meaning and value of the hand made and the human in future, sustainable, luxury fashion; her focus as a researcher has become increasingly holistic and multidisciplinary, concerned with fashion’s potential in benign design. Aileen Stewart is a lecturer at Glasgow Caledonian University within the School of Business and Society, in Scotland (UK). She received her bachelor’s degree in ‘Clothing’ from Heriot Watt University, School of Textiles and Design and a master’s degree in International Fashion Marketing from Glasgow Caledonian University. Her current research interests are luxury fashion brand extensions, consumer buyer behaviour of fashion and Consumer Brand Relationship (CBR). María Villanueva holds a Ph.D. in Architecture from the University of Navarra, where she graduated with Honors in the Final Project and won the Luis Moya Blanco Fin de Carrera Award. She lectures at the School of Architecture, the Faculty of Communication and ISEM Fashion Business School in the University of Navarra. María focuses her research on the history and theory of design. She has presented her work in international conferences and published book chapters and articles in indexed journals like PPA, Res Mobilis, Notes on Contributors xvii Constelaciones, Estoa. She has been a visiting scholar at universities like the Getty Research Institute in Los Angeles and the GSAPP Columbia University in New York. Tiantian Ye undertook an MPhil under the supervision of Patsy Perry and Liz Barnes at The University of Manchester on the conceptualisation of luxury fashion in China, decoding the China’s dynamic and fast-changing consumption landscape through insights of the nation’s social ideologies and cultural heritage. He is an experienced fashion and culture writer, contributing to several national media outlets. He is currently developing branding strategy and curatorial projects for an emerging design hotel brand reinventing the poetic Chinese fine living concept and raising awareness of ethical tourism. He is the co-founder of Haoji Creative Lab, a Chinese design exhibition curation agency. List of Figures Fig. 5.1 Fig. 5.2 Fig. 5.3 Fig. 5.4 Fig. 5.5 Fig. 5.6 Fig. 5.7 Fig. 5.8 Fig. 5.9 Fig. 5.10 Fig. 5.11 Fig. 6.1 Fig. 6.2 Fig. 8.1 Fig. 11.1 Holistic Design Methodology Map Ugandan barkcloth Finished piece of Ugandan barkcloth Karen Spurgin dye experiments Karen Spurgin black dye sample Wild fig tree, bark harvested BOTFA barkcloth makers Proposition 1 Proposition 2 Indigo-dyed appliqué Crafting the cape Proposed moderation model Johnson-Neyman floodlight analysis for experimental data analysis Empirical framework of Chinese luxury fashion consumer value Image from Rapha.cc website, Men’s Shop section showing a ‘Classic Jersey II’ cycling jersey top (2017) (© Rapha—reproduced with permission) 101 103 104 106 106 108 109 110 112 113 114 137 137 197 249 xix xx Fig. 11.2 Fig. 11.3 Fig. 11.4 Fig. 11.5 Fig. 11.6 Fig. 11.7 Fig. 11.8 Fig. 11.9 List of Figures Image from Rapha.cc website, Men’s Shop section, showing ‘Premium Denim—Slim’ jeans (2017) (© Rapha—reproduced with permission) Image from Rapha.cc website, ‘Membership‘ page (2017) (© Rapha—reproduced with permission) Photograph of pillar displaying royal insignia and crown, at the entrance to Regent’s Park, London (2017) Image of Rapha.cc website, ‘RCC Summit Boulder’ webpage (2017) (© Rapha—reproduced with permission) Citroën H-Van in Rapha’s Soho Clubhouse in Brewer Street, London (2017) (© Rapha—photographed with permission) [left] Rapha Body Wash (2017) (© Rapha—reproduced with permission) Photograph of cyclist on Mont Ventoux, beside packaging of Rapha Body Wash showing same landscape (2017) (© Rapha—photographed with permission) A coffee on glass display table containing paper map in Rapha’s Soho Clubhouse, London (2017) (© Rapha—photographed with permission) 251 257 260 261 264 265 266 267 List of Tables Table 4.1 Table 4.2 Table 4.3 Table 4.4 Table 4.5 Table 4.6 Table 4.7 Table 5.1 Table 6.1 Table 6.2 Table 7.1 Table 8.1 Table 8.2 Table 8.3 Negative emotions evoked during luxury consumption—fear Fear evoked during luxury consumption specific to China Negative emotions evoked during luxury consumption—anger and sadness Guilt for luxury consumption The way to alleviate feelings of guilt Shame for luxury consumption and the way to justify it (specific to China) Sample characteristics for Brazil and China Holistic Design Methodology A multidimensional model of CSR Scenarios employed to manipulate type of CSR initiative Thematic representation of data Respondent profiles Interview topic guide Final thematic template 69 70 72 74 77 79 82 98 128 136 160 189 190 196 xxi List of Boxes Box 9.1 Box 9.2 The Speedy Tuesday case in figures Portrait of the founder of Speedy Tuesday 210 211 xxiii