Teresa Sadaba
Universidad de Navarra, Comunicación Pública, Faculty Member
- PhD in political communication, now Dean at ISEM Fashion Business School. Interested in Public Opinion issues such as politics and fashionedit
More than a decade after their first appearance, fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant feature of the fashion scene. However, in many respects they have not yet achieved a definitive status within the field of fashion... more
More than a decade after their first appearance, fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant feature of the fashion scene. However, in many respects they have not yet achieved a definitive status within the field of fashion media, at least in terms of legitimization. This chapter addresses the following question: is the golden era of fashion blogging over? It does so by comparing two national fields of fashion blogging, those of Italy and Spain. From a theoretical point of view bloggers are investigated as influentials and their work is considered as constitutive of the contemporary field of the fashion media, drawing on a Bourdieusian perspective. The arguments formulated in this chapter are based on quantitative and qualitative research carried out in Italy and Spain. Through desk analysis we investigated the features of the bloggers with the highest levels of visibility and their activity in the social media. A sample of 62 bloggers were interviewed with qualitative techniques to discuss the experience of common fashion bloggers. We conclude that blogs have gained a more institutionalized and normalized role in the field of fashion. Despite the presence of many aspirational bloggers, the field has left its ‘naïve’ stage and has become more professionalized. Players such as companies and journalists, initially not always particularly enthusiastic about bloggers (especially in Italy), recognize and legitimize the role of bloggers as fashion influentials by employing them as marketing tools and contributors to magazines. The role of semi-professionalised bloggers is highlighted. Together with celebrities and common bloggers, they are part of the tripartite hierarchy that characterises the field of fashion blogging.
Research Interests: Fashion Theory, Digital Media, Celebrity Culture, Social Media, Pierre Bourdieu, and 14 moreSpain, Fashion Media, Sociology of Fashion, Fashion Blogs, Social media, fashion and luxury, branding, Celebrity Studies, Influentials, Italian fashion theory, Fashion Bloggers, Web-celebrities, Digital influencers, Fashion influencers, Web influencers, and Field of fashion media
en Mercedes Montero (coord.) La publicidad española
desde 1960 hasta 2000. Del desarrollismo a la globalización, Comunicación Social, Zamora, 2010.
desde 1960 hasta 2000. Del desarrollismo a la globalización, Comunicación Social, Zamora, 2010.
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en CANEL, María José y GARCÍA GURRIONERO, Mario: Estudios de Comunicación Política. Libro del año 2008. Madrid, ACOP, pp. 15-
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The following investigation presents a theoretical framework regarding the concept of fashion activism, a historical overview of its presence during the social and political movements of the past 100 years, and an analysis of corporate... more
The following investigation presents a theoretical framework regarding the concept of fashion activism, a historical overview of its presence during the social and political movements of the past 100 years, and an analysis of corporate activism in the fashion industry. The cases studied in this article were originated mainly in the United States and the United Kingdom, though all of them acquired global character. Social media has become a key element for the transformation of fashion activism throughout the past century, magnifying the visibility of the movements and increasing the participation of public figures like brands and designers. The paper concludes with the fundamental role of fashion in the public opinion and leaves with unanswered questions regarding its true impact and commitment for social issues.
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We are happy and thrilled to introduce this thematic section of Studies in Communication Sciences (SComS), devoted to Fashion Communication. It was about two years ago when we first discussed the idea in Madrid: then we got the approval... more
We are happy and thrilled to introduce this thematic section of Studies in Communication Sciences (SComS), devoted to Fashion Communication. It was about two years ago when we first discussed the idea in Madrid: then we got the approval by SComS Editors, published the call, and eventually secured the outstanding collection of papers you have in your hands (or on your screen). A long and enriching journey, full of interactions, conversations, views and reviews, a journey that makes the scholar’s work so fascinating (even if, sometimes, not that fashionable).
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Abstract The aim of this paper is to analyze the role that e-commerce has to play in the internationalization of Spanish luxury multi-brand stores. Possible answers are sought to the following research question: How might the adoption of... more
Abstract The aim of this paper is to analyze the role that e-commerce has to play in the internationalization of Spanish luxury multi-brand stores. Possible answers are sought to the following research question: How might the adoption of e-commerce platforms affect the international sales of multi-brand retailers? This paper presents a data analysis of the 15 most important Spanish fashion multi-brand retailers and the different prospects of e-commerce today. Our analysis of online stores shows an open mentality when it comes to adapting to this new business model, but the late integration and inexperience of the majority of retailers limit their performance. Information from different channels and further research through the collaboration of brands would have given us more detailed information regarding the current situation within this sector. The paper analyzes the current situation of e-commerce luxury fashion multi-brand stores and mainly focuses on the Spanish market, even though it also offers a global overview.
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/ European audiovisual legislation focuses exclusively on a concept of external pluralism. It therefore seems necessary to adopt other policies and develop new measures to guarantee diversity. In order to implement this reform, a new,... more
/ European audiovisual legislation focuses exclusively on a concept of external pluralism. It therefore seems necessary to adopt other policies and develop new measures to guarantee diversity. In order to implement this reform, a new, richer concept of pluralism must be sought that reflects the reality of the market. This would enable us to devise instruments to measure the real presence of pluralism in the media, and perform effective regulation to defend this right at every level. The aim of this study is to examine the scope of this problem in the content of public and private broadcasting in different European countries, and then suggest a redefinition of pluralism and cultural diversity, together with new forms of evaluation that could guarantee that both values are present in sufficient measure.
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The death of Franco in 1975 marked the beginning of a period of political uncertainty in Spain. It was obvious that Spain could not continue as an authoritarian regime, and the debate centered on the means by which political changes... more
The death of Franco in 1975 marked the beginning of a period of political uncertainty in Spain. It was obvious that Spain could not continue as an authoritarian regime, and the debate centered on the means by which political changes should be introduced to bring ...
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This paper addresses the state of the question regarding crisis communication and corporate social responsibility, going on to describe the fashion industry system. For this, two crisis cases in the fashion industry are analyzed: Rana... more
This paper addresses the state of the question regarding crisis communication and corporate social responsibility, going on to describe the fashion industry system. For this, two crisis cases in the fashion industry are analyzed: Rana Plaza and Bravo Tekstil Factory. The Rana Plaza case is the worst accident in the history of fashion manufacturing. The management of the crisis on the part of the individual brands was extremely diverse and led them towards different communications scenarios. However, another crisis emerged at that moment: the industry itself and its manufacturing methods were effectively called into question. In fact, this issue has continued to be controversial and has led to an interesting public debate that had been demonstrated in the crisis in 2017. The crisis cases analyzed, bringing together the facts and the communicative reactions of the brands, as well as the media. This paper seeks to meet three objectives: stress the importance of communication with regard to the management of the crisis; highlight the link between crisis communication and corporate social responsibility; focus attention on the fashion industry, where intangible values acquire considerable importance and, therefore, are especially affected by crises. Our discussion and conclusions highlight the need to understand this kind of crisis by considering other perspectives and questioning some of the traditional ways of approaching the matter of crisis communication.
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The agenda-setting second-level perspective offers an explanation for the transfer of attribute salience from the media agenda to the public agenda, calling attention to cognitive and persuasive effects. Attribute agenda-setting goes... more
The agenda-setting second-level perspective offers an explanation for the transfer of attribute salience from the media agenda to the public agenda, calling attention to cognitive and persuasive effects. Attribute agenda-setting goes further than just gaining substantial public exposure and attention for the media. Media not only tell us “what to think about” but also “how to think about it.” Research has been developed that attempts to differentiate cognitions and affections; however, more recent studies see how both fall on a continuum in terms of the way we think and are influenced by the media. Keywords: agenda-setting; attitudes; attributes; cognitions; limited effects; second level
Research Interests: Psychology and Cognition
La revolucion digital ha transformado el modo en que los/as millennials consumen informacion sobre moda. La aparicion de nuevas plataformas digitales (blogs, redes sociales, revistas online, foros…) amplia las posibilidades de acceso a... more
La revolucion digital ha transformado el modo en que los/as millennials consumen informacion sobre moda. La aparicion de nuevas plataformas digitales (blogs, redes sociales, revistas online, foros…) amplia las posibilidades de acceso a diferentes fuentes de informacion. Ante esta nueva realidad, profesionales y academicos/as se plantean multiples cuestiones: ?siguen leyendo revistas de moda los/as millennials o solo ven las paginas web de las revistas?, ?interesan los libros de moda?, ?continuan teniendo lectores/as los blogs o solo se consume informacion en redes sociales?, ?quienes son mas activos/as la hora de obtener de informacion sobre moda? Este articulo pretende responder a estas preguntas gracias a los datos obtenidos mediante la combinacion de tres tecnicas de investigacion: dos grupos de discusion, 22 entrevistas en profundidad y una encuesta a 1176 millennials. Los resultados muestran que los/as millennials continuan utilizando multiples fuentes de informacion en moda. L...
Research Interests: Humanities, Art, Moda, Redes sociales, Millennials, and 6 moreSociología, Comunicación, Información, Medios, Revistas, and Marcas
From a symbolic and cultural approach to the social movements, framing theory has contributed to explain meanings and strategies for mobilization. Also, the theory has evolved in the media research, and media frames have to be also... more
From a symbolic and cultural approach to the social movements, framing theory has contributed to explain meanings and strategies for mobilization. Also, the theory has evolved in the media research, and media frames have to be also considered in the collective action. This paper clarifies how frames work in this context and describes their ability to give legitimization and congruence to the movement. The case of Black Lives Matter is an example of the use of framing and its consequences for the movement.
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This paper analyzes how consumers are interacting with brands in the new digital context. The question research is if there is any homogenization of user behavior when dealing with brands in the e-commerce or not. The paper study Digital... more
This paper analyzes how consumers are interacting with brands in the new digital context. The question research is if there is any homogenization of user behavior when dealing with brands in the e-commerce or not. The paper study Digital User Behavior in Fashion e-commerce, for this purpose, user behavior of Fast Fashion (FF) and Luxury-Premium (LP) e-commerce webpages are investigated. Therefore, a group of 20 fashion brands was selected: 10 of these brands belonged to the FF category and the other 10 to the LP category. User digital behavior is analyzed using six Key Digital Behavior Variables (KDBV), all performative variables that represent how consumers interact with brands through their web pages, based on web user session analysis. Studying digital user behavior enables us to get to know fashion brand consumers and users better. As we have observed, there are increasingly few differences between the behavior of FF web site users and LP web site users.
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The following investigation presents the definitions of cultural heritage, cultural appropriation, corporate reputation to later evaluate how could Cultural Appropriation infringement could be detrimental to a company’s corporate... more
The following investigation presents the definitions of cultural heritage, cultural appropriation, corporate reputation to later evaluate how could Cultural Appropriation infringement could be detrimental to a company’s corporate reputation in the digital context. Two cases of cultural appropriation crisis in the fashion industry are analyzed. On the one hand, the crisis faced by Carolina Herrera due to the similarities of the firm’s Resort 2020 collection and different cultural elements from communities in Mexico, and on the other hand, the crisis faced by Gucci with a blackface accusation in 2019. The paper leads us to conclude that nowadays cultural appropriation in fashion can lead to a reputational crisis because the different stakeholders of a company in the industry are evolving and demanding from them to be more aware of controversial issues, among those, the misrepresentation of a culture. Also, how digital communication arises new questions for this kind of crisis. Evaluat...
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Sustainability strategy at companies has become a key business and management aspect for the development and success of an enterprise. The communication of strategies and actions relating to sustainability has become increasingly... more
Sustainability strategy at companies has become a key business and management aspect for the development and success of an enterprise. The communication of strategies and actions relating to sustainability has become increasingly important for both companies and brands. This research studies the communication process that forms part of the sustainable strategy of fashion companies, ranging from the corporate website to e-commerce, and it proposes improvements for sustainability communication. Two new models are presented: the Operational Model for Evaluating Fashion Corporate Websites (OMEFCW) and the Operational Model for Evaluating Fashion E-Commerce (OMEFeC), based on the core dimensions of online sustainability communication (orientation, structure, ergonomics and content—OSEC), as established by Siano. In order to obtain an optimal view of the fashion industry, four corporate groups—two luxury fashion groups (Kering Group and Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH)) and two fast fas...
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Although many cases of the so-called Cancel Culture in the American and British colleges and are taking place nowadays, social science researchers claim for a better understanding of the phenomenon and a clarification of the concept. In... more
Although many cases of the so-called Cancel Culture in the American and British colleges and are taking place nowadays, social science researchers claim for a better understanding of the phenomenon and a clarification of the concept. In this context, cultural perspectives can be an interesting tool to illuminate facts and meanings. This paper tries to contribute to this debate introducing theoretical aspects as well as case studies from the Hispanic context. To achieve this goal, first three different approaches to the Cancel Culture (critical, institutional, and moral) are explained. Then, we examine the role of social media and the new “fear of isolation”, connecting Cancel Culture with the classic theory of the spiral of silence (Noelle-Neumann, 1974). We complement the theoretical discussion with an exploratory work on cases of Cancel Culture in different Hispanic countries. Observing characteristics of those cases we can conclude that they do not follow the traces of the Anglos...
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Análisis de los spots electorales o espacios gratuitos de televisión en España entre 1977 y 200
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Using choice-based conjoint analysis, this research explores consumer behavior for sustainable fashion in Spain. We confronted consumers through an online survey with a real marketplace situation in which they had to make trade-offs... more
Using choice-based conjoint analysis, this research explores consumer behavior for sustainable fashion in Spain. We confronted consumers through an online survey with a real marketplace situation in which they had to make trade-offs between different attributes and where the importance of the price factor was explicitly considered. Specifically, the information available for consumers on clothing hangtags – price, country of origin, material composition, and (with/without) fair-trade label – was used to study consumer preferences for sustainable fashion products. Furthermore, we examined how consumers ponder the five dimensions of sustainable fashion – functionality, authenticity, exclusivity, localism and equity. Based on a sample of 1,063 respondents, the results indicate that price is still the critical purchasing driver for the average consumer. 31.9% of the sample always chose the lowest price-tag independently of the other attributes. Combining the conjoint results, the attitude towards the five dimensions of slow fashion, and demographics, we identified four clusters of consumers: Sustainability Rejecters, Sustainability Neutrals, Sustainability Believers, and Sustainability Enthusiasts. Ninety-two consumers, 8.65% of the sample, appear to buy sustainable fashion regularly. This endorses and significantly adds to the literature on sustainable fashion consumer behavior in a flourishing market and to the attitude-behavior gap research.
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More than a decade after their first appearance, fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant feature of the fashion scene. However, in many respects they have not yet achieved a definitive status within the field of fashion... more
More than a decade after their first appearance, fashion blogs have established themselves as a constant feature of the fashion scene. However, in many respects they have not yet achieved a definitive status within the field of fashion media, at least in terms of legitimization. This chapter addresses the following question: is the golden era of fashion blogging over? It does so by comparing two national fields of fashion blogging, those of Italy and Spain. From a theoretical point of view bloggers are investigated as influentials and their work is considered as constitutive of the contemporary field of the fashion media, drawing on a Bourdieusian perspective. The arguments formulated in this chapter are based on quantitative and qualitative research carried out in Italy and Spain. Through desk analysis we investigated the features of the bloggers with the highest levels of visibility and their activity in the social media. A sample of 62 bloggers were interviewed with qualitative techniques to discuss the experience of common fashion bloggers. We conclude that blogs have gained a more institutionalized and normalized role in the field of fashion. Despite the presence of many aspirational bloggers, the field has left its ‘naïve’ stage and has become more professionalized. Players such as companies and journalists, initially not always particularly enthusiastic about bloggers (especially in Italy), recognize and legitimize the role of bloggers as fashion influentials by employing them as marketing tools and contributors to magazines. The role of semi-professionalised bloggers is highlighted. Together with celebrities and common bloggers, they are part of the tripartite hierarchy that characterises the field of fashion blogging.
Research Interests: History, Fashion Theory, Digital Media, Celebrity Culture, Social Media, and 14 morePierre Bourdieu, Spain, Fashion Media, Sociology of Fashion, Fashion Blogs, Celebrity Studies, Influentials, Italian fashion theory, Fashion Bloggers, Web-celebrities, Digital influencers, Fashion influencers, Web influencers, and Field of fashion media
Social movements and the media acquire an increasing role in the public sphere; they broaden posibilities to noninstitutional actors. However, movements and the media promote and spread different ways of world understanding, and they do... more
Social movements and the media acquire an increasing role in the public sphere; they broaden posibilities to noninstitutional actors. However, movements and the media promote and spread different ways of world understanding, and they do that with what is called by the academical research as frames. Over the last decades, framing theory has been tried to give an explanation for the social construction of reality through meanings and interpretations. This work shows the similiraties and differences of this theory in two areas -social movements and media- which have not been always studied together. Moreover, a paradigm case is shown as case study, where colective action frames and media frames work together. This is the case of the kidnapping and murder of Miguel Angel Blanco in Spain. From this case, we arrive to some conclusions which allow us to clear out new research trends and ways to apply frames.
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La teoria del framing ocupa en la actualidad uno de los lugares mas destacados de la investigacion en comunicacion (Weaver, 2007), y de forma muy especial en la comunicacion politica (Sadaba, Rodriguez-Virgili & La Porte, 2008). Sin... more
La teoria del framing ocupa en la actualidad uno de los lugares mas destacados de la investigacion en comunicacion (Weaver, 2007), y de forma muy especial en la comunicacion politica (Sadaba, Rodriguez-Virgili & La Porte, 2008). Sin embargo, el framing se ha consolidado como el marco teorico mas relevante sin alcanzar todavia la correspondiente clarificacion conceptual y metodologica (Vliegenthart & van Zoonen, 2011). La teoria del framing no presenta una clara definicion compartida por todos los investigadores y son muchos los estudios que hablan de framing refiriendose a conceptos diversos. Como anticipaba Robert Entman, se trata de un paradigma fracturado (Entman, 1993). El presente trabajo propone una sistematizacion de las lineas de investigacion en las que el framing puede contribuir al estudio de la comunicacion politica: objetivista, constructivista, cultural, narrativa, metodologica, profesional, estrategica y simbolica. A traves de esta propuesta, se pretende delimitar los...
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La Comunicacion Politica ha experimentado un gran desarrollo en los ultimos anos tanto en la praxis profesional como en la labor academica. Por lo general, los investigadores se han centrado en las campanas electorales, la comunicacion... more
La Comunicacion Politica ha experimentado un gran desarrollo en los ultimos anos tanto en la praxis profesional como en la labor academica. Por lo general, los investigadores se han centrado en las campanas electorales, la comunicacion estrategica de las instituciones, los medios de comunicacion o los efectos en los electores. Sin embargo, la ficcion aparece hoy como un nuevo espacio donde los politicos, los ciudadanos y los medios de comunicacion pueden interactuar con otros patrones y mecanismos. Desde el punto de vista academico, escasean los estudios sistematicos de este genero y su relacion con la Comunicacion Politica. Este articulo trata de abrir una linea de estudios en esa direccion, destacando las posibilidades para la Comunicacion Politica, que incluyen la teoria de la Comunicacion Politica, la teoria de los efectos, las tendencias actuales y la conexion entre la realidad y la ficcion.
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Research in professional attitudes of journalists has tried to typify, under a normative conception of the press, different roles of the journalist. Typologies suggested by scholars imply the classic principle of objectivity along with... more
Research in professional attitudes of journalists has tried to typify, under a normative conception of the press, different roles of the journalist. Typologies suggested by scholars imply the classic principle of objectivity along with the notion of the journalist as mirror of reality. Under this approach, questions such as what the influences on professional attitudes are, or how professional attitudes affect the actual news contents, do not get full answers. After reviewing the evolution of the research, the article suggests the symbolic perspective as one under which the notion of the journalist as mediator better deals with the interaction between professional attitudes, contents and audiences.
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The audio-visual politics of the European Union focuses on the dangers of globalization with respect to cultural diversity. For this task, it takes into account the legislative and political measures which are deemed necessary for a... more
The audio-visual politics of the European Union focuses on the dangers of globalization with respect to cultural diversity. For this task, it takes into account the legislative and political measures which are deemed necessary for a proper understanding and evaluation of the problem following the objectives set by the communal institutions. The study and analysis of this matter calls for a reflection on the relevance and convenience of these measures and its basis in a European frame
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El objetivo de este estudio es proponer un nuevo concepto de pluralismo que garantice su presencia efectiva en los medios de comunicación. De acuerdo con este concepto, se sugieren tres indicadores para medir el grado de pluralismo: la... more
El objetivo de este estudio es proponer un nuevo concepto de pluralismo que garantice su presencia efectiva en los medios de comunicación. De acuerdo con este concepto, se sugieren tres indicadores para medir el grado de pluralismo: la presencia de los diferentes grupos sociales o políticos, la naturaleza de su intervención y las características de la imagen difundida. La muestra seleccionada procede de cinco países europeos: Alemania, Francia, Italia, España y Reino Unido. La metodología utilizada es el análisis de contenido de los informativos. El estudio demuestra la insuficiencia del concepto y medición actual presente en las legislaciones europeas.
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Abstract The growing interest in fashion bloggers within the field of fashion is generating different kinds of research under the headings of communication and consumer behavior. However, one of the key issues within fashion, such as... more
Abstract The growing interest in fashion bloggers within the field of fashion is generating different kinds of research under the headings of communication and consumer behavior. However, one of the key issues within fashion, such as influence, has not been researched in any great depth so far. This paper seeks to shed some light on this matter and poses the question as to just how many fashion bloggers can really be considered influential. Through an analysis of the characteristics of what has been considered “influential” within the field of research, and based on a research project that focuses on Spanish bloggers, we can discover which bloggers are influential, what the attributes are that define them, and how we can locate them.
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En las ultimas decadas, la teoria del encuadre o framing se ha convertido en uno de los puntos de referencia de los teoricos de la comunicacion. Para entender su desarrollo, resulta necesario profundizar en sus origenes interdisciplinares... more
En las ultimas decadas, la teoria del encuadre o framing se ha convertido en uno de los puntos de referencia de los teoricos de la comunicacion. Para entender su desarrollo, resulta necesario profundizar en sus origenes interdisciplinares y en su evolucion. Un analisis que conduce a una reflexion sobre su conveniencia para explicar el fenomeno de los medios de comunicacion social
Little but increasing research has been done about the influence of blogs in the consumer decision-making process. This paper tries to shed some light on this new scenario, analyzing how bloggers are now a key player in the fashion... more
Little but increasing research has been done about the influence of blogs in the consumer decision-making process. This paper tries to shed some light on this new scenario, analyzing how bloggers are now a key player in the fashion industry, and explaining how they create a closer and more qualified relationship with customers, so they can be more influential. Based on a case study, and considering different approaches to bloggers influence, this article makes it clear that measuring the engagement between bloggers and readers is significant for brands and their marketing strategies with bloggers.
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Resumen: Las campañas electorales se presentan como un marco propicio para el estudio de la relación medios-políticos, debido a la intensidad del flujo informativo y a las expectativas que se generan. El caso de las elecciones del 12 de... more
Resumen: Las campañas electorales se presentan como un marco propicio para el estudio de la relación medios-políticos, debido a la intensidad del flujo informativo y a las expectativas que se generan. El caso de las elecciones del 12 de marzo de 2000 en España resulta de gran interés debido a las novedades introducidas por las alineaciones políticas y las herramientas de marketing político desarrolladas. Desde la teoría de la mediación y tomando como punto de referencia el análisis de contenido de los titulares de dos periódicos (El País y El Mundo) se demuestra que los medios han tomado parte activa en el juego electoral. A través de la presencia de los actores políticos, de los temas introducidos y del tono de los mensajes publicados se perfila una campaña que podría denominarse como de "carrera de caballos". Palabras clave: comunicación política, campañas electorales, mediación, agenda pública, valoraciones políticas Abstract: Electoral campaigns are a propitious frame for the study of the relationship between media and politics, because of the intensity of the information flow and the generated expectations. The case of the elections of 2000, March the 12th in Spain is of great interest due to the new features introduced by the political alignments and the developed political marketing tools. Taking the mediation theory as a reference point and based upon content analysis data of headlines of two newspapers (El País and El Mundo) it is demostrated that media have taken an active part in the electoral game. Because of the presence of the political actors, the new subjects which have been introduced and the tone of the published message, this campaing could be outlined as a "horse racing" campaign. 1. Introducción Las últimas elecciones legislativas del 12 de marzo de 2000 han presentado peculiaridades muy interesantes para un análisis desde el punto de vista de la comunicación. El pacto de la izquierda, la intensidad de la pre-campaña1 o la definitiva instauración de Internet como medio de interacción entre el político y el ciudadano arrojaban cuestiones novedosas y una infinidad de interrogantes sobre la efectividad de las campañas en este panorama inédito. También la actuación de algunos medios ha suscitado dudas sobre el papel de los periodistas en las contiendas electorales y el servicio que pueden prestar a determinadas causas. Porque, siguiendo a Swanson, la nueva política está centrada en los medios. La intrusión de los medios en el proceso político y la incorporación de nuevas estrategias centradas en los medios es un proceso sin conclusión (Swanson, 1995). Y si esto sucede en cualquier acción política, la relación medios-políticos se estrecha mucho más en las contiendas electorales. Es en ellas cuando la búsqueda del voto demanda una mayor presencia en las plataformas públicas; los medios se convierten así en los instrumentos idóneos para llegar al mayor número de ciudadanos y pasan a ser un objeto preciado para los candidatos y partidos. Es decir, para los políticos el proceso de comunicación política sirve como agencia de persuasión disponible para movilizar el apoyo público a sus causas y puntos de vista más que como un canal de educación del electorado (Blumler y Gurevitch, 1995). Pero tampoco se puede olvidar que el interés de los políticos por llegar al votante es similar al que tienen los medios por incrementar sus
Resumen El debate sobre la reforma institucional y la ampliación de la Unión Europea fueron dos de los temas principales de la cumbre de Niza, que tuvo lugar el mes de diciembre de 2000. La cum-bre, caracterizada por las divergencias... more
Resumen El debate sobre la reforma institucional y la ampliación de la Unión Europea fueron dos de los temas principales de la cumbre de Niza, que tuvo lugar el mes de diciembre de 2000. La cum-bre, caracterizada por las divergencias previas entre Francia y Alemania, centró los debates en torno al nuevo reparto de votos de los estados miembros y dejó otros asuntos pendientes de resolver, como, por ejemplo, la posibilidad de crear un texto constitucional comunitario. A través de la cobertura realizada por la prensa española, el presente artículo analiza el proceso de reforma e integración que se debatió en la cumbre, la idea de Europa que mani-festaba y la actuación concreta del Gobierno español en estos aspectos. Desde la teoría de la mediación informativa, y mediante una metodología de análisis de contenido que combina métodos cualitativos y cuantitativos, se llegan a definir tres visiones de los acontecimientos en las que se destaca que, en situaciones políticas en estado de definición, como la de Niza, el papel de los medios de comunicación puede ser decisivo para la creación de imágenes políticas. Palabras clave: mediación, Unión Europea, ampliación, reparto de votos, integración, nacionalización. Abstract. Nice: one summit, two topics, three visions. An approach to the Nice's summit through the Spanish press coverage The debate about the institutional reform and the enlargement of the European Union were two of the main topics in the Nice's summit, in December 2000. Before the summit took place, the divergences between France and Germany concerning the decision-making processes had already arosen. Therefore, this issue became the main discussion topic and other topics such as the possibility to create an European Constitution were left without a definitive solution. Through the Spanish press coverage, this article analyses some important issues discussed in Nice: the process of reform and integration, the idea of Europe, and also the role of the Spanish Government in those areas. From the mediation theory of communication, and using a content analysis methodology which combines both qualitative and quantitative research methods, it is possible to define three different visions of the events. As a conclusion, the role of the media in situations of political definitions can be determinant to the creation of political images.
Resumen El objetivo de este estudio es proponer un nuevo concepto de pluralismo que garantice su presencia efectiva en los medios de comunicación. De acuerdo con este concepto, se su-gieren tres indicadores para medir el grado de... more
Resumen El objetivo de este estudio es proponer un nuevo concepto de pluralismo que garantice su presencia efectiva en los medios de comunicación. De acuerdo con este concepto, se su-gieren tres indicadores para medir el grado de pluralismo: la presencia de los diferentes grupos sociales o políticos, la naturaleza de su intervención y las características de la ima-gen difundida. La muestra seleccionada procede de cinco países europeos: Alemania, Francia, Italia, Es-paña y Reino Unido. La metodología utilizada es el análisis de contenido de los informa-tivos. El estudio demuestra la insuficiencia del concepto y medición actual presente en las legislaciones europeas. Abstract The aim of this study is to propose a new concept of pluralism to guarantee its real presence in the media. Taking in account this concept, three main indicators are used: the presence of the different social and political groups, the nature of their intervention and the characteristics of the image transmitted. The selected sample comes from five European countries: Germany, France, Italy, Spain and the United Kingdom. Pluralism in the news is evaluated through the analysis of quantitative content. The study shows the concept and measure of pluralism in the European national laws is unsatisfactory .
Resumen La teoría del framing ocupa en la actualidad uno de los lugares más destacados de la investigación en comunicación (Weaver, 2007) y de forma muy especial en la comunicación política (Sádaba, Rodríguez-Virgili & La Porte, 2008).... more
Resumen La teoría del framing ocupa en la actualidad uno de los lugares más destacados de la investigación en comunicación (Weaver, 2007) y de forma muy especial en la comunicación política (Sádaba, Rodríguez-Virgili & La Porte, 2008). Sin embargo, el framing se ha consolidado como el marco teórico más relevante sin alcanzar todavía la correspondiente clarificación conceptual y metodológica (Vliegenthart & Van Zoonen, 2011). La teoría del framing no presenta una clara definición compartida por todos los investigadores y son muchos los estudios que hablan de framing refiriéndose a conceptos diversos. Como anticipaba Robert Entman, se trata de un paradigma fracturado (Entman, 1993). El presente trabajo propone una sistematización de las líneas de investigación en las que el framing puede contribuir al estudio de la comunicación política: constructivista, estratégica, de actitudes profesionales, metodológica, cultural, narrativa y simbólica. A través de esta propuesta, se pretende delimitar los campos en los que el framing puede ayudar a la investigación y práctica de la comunicación política, así como recuperar algunas vías de desarrollo de la teoría que aún no han sido suficientemente exploradas con el objetivo de avanzar en la comprensión integral del término. Palabras clave: framing, comunicación política, investigación en comunicación. Abstract Framing theory holds nowadays one of the most prominent places in communication research (Weaver, 2007), and especially specially in political communication (Sádaba, Rodríguez-Virgili & La Porte, 2008). Despite framing has obtained a great relevance, it has not achieved yet a conceptual and methodological clarification (Vliegenthart & Van Zoonen, 2011). Framing theory lacks a definition shared by most researchers and many of them refer to different concepts by framing. As Robert Entman stated, it is a fractured paradigm (Entman, 1993). This paper proposes a systematization of the lines of research in which framing can contribute to the study of political communication: constructivist, cultural, narrative, methodological, of journalistic roles, strategic and symbolic. Through this proposal, we expect to define the fields in which framing can help to the research and practice of political communication, as well as recovering some aspects that have not yet been sufficiently explored, in order to advance into an integral understanding of the term.
En las últimas décadas, la teoría del encuadre o framing se ha convertido en uno de los puntos de referencia de los teóricos de la comunicación. Para entender su desarrollo, resulta necesario profundizar en sus orígenes interdisciplinares... more
En las últimas décadas, la teoría del encuadre o framing se ha convertido en uno de los puntos de referencia de los teóricos de la comunicación. Para entender su desarrollo, resulta necesario profundizar en sus orígenes interdisciplinares y en su evolución. Un análisis que conduce a una reflexión sobre su conveniencia para explicar el fenómeno de los medios de comunicación social.
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Recibido: 5.03 Aprobado: II 03 RESUMEN Los íísovimientrís sociales y los medios de comísunicación adquieren un creciente protagonisuso en un espacio públi-co, anipliado costras posibilidades no institucionales o tradicionaLmente... more
Recibido: 5.03 Aprobado: II 03 RESUMEN Los íísovimientrís sociales y los medios de comísunicación adquieren un creciente protagonisuso en un espacio públi-co, anipliado costras posibilidades no institucionales o tradicionaLmente oficiales. Sin embargo, tanto los movmnímen-nos como los medios impulsan y dilcmndemí modos diversos dc concebir el mundo, y lo hacen mediante Lo que la in-vestigación académica ha demícunmimíedo conio mareos o frames. En las últimas décadas, desde la teoría dcl encuadre o del framing se ijitente dar umía explicación ala construcción social dele realidad a través de Los significados y de Les interpreteciounes. El presente [rebajo expone Las similitudes y diferencies de esta teoría en estos dos ámbitos movilización ecuiectiva y nnedioss dc comuuicacióuí— no sielíspre explorados de manera conjunte. Además, se pre-senta un caso paradigmático cmi el que [rusmarcos de acción comiecciva parecen ir de la mano dc los frames periodís-ticos: has movilizaciones y cohícutuma que tuvo el casos del secuestro y poisterior asesinato de Miguel Ángel Blanco eh España A partir del caso presentado. se llega a conclusiomnes que permiten esclarecer lineas de investigación con-juntas y uííodoms efectivos de aplicación de los mísereos. PALABRAS CLAvE: sociombogía míicr 1uretativa. uiovimicntcss sociales, teoría del framiug, prensa, cobertura dc terrorismo ABSTRACT Social moveníents aud the media acquire an iucreasing role in the publie sphere; they broaden posibilities no noninsti-ttítional actcmrs Howcver. mouveríieuts aud the mísedia prosmísote and spread differenc ways of world understauding, aud tbey do char with what is called by the academical rescarch es frames. Oven nhe lasn decadesframing theory has been tnied <o give en explanation [brmhe social comnstruecion of rcaiity through useanings aud interpretations. This work shows che similiraties and differeuces cmi nhis thcory u two arcas —soscial movements and media— whieh have uot beco ab-ways studied rcsgecher. Mosreosver. a paradigní case is shown es case study, where colective actitun frames and mísedia fremes work togecher TUs is risc case osf the kidnapping and murder of Miguel Amígel Blanco in Spaiíí. Froisí this case, Wc arrive to sosme conehusiomís whsich ailow ns tos clear oun new rescarch trends and ways 00 apphy fremes.
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El estudio de las agendas de los medios se ha basado fundamentalmente en los efectos que éstas tienen sobre la audiencia, aplicando la teoría de la Agenda Setting. Sin embargo, para calibrar estas influencias es interesante conocer cómo... more
El estudio de las agendas de los medios se ha basado fundamentalmente en los efectos que éstas tienen sobre la audiencia, aplicando la teoría de la Agenda Setting. Sin embargo, para calibrar estas influencias es interesante conocer cómo se configuran las agendas, y profundizar en el proceso
de Agenda Building. En este artículo se explora el modo de construcción de la agenda en el caso del debate sobre el Estatut en el Parlamento español, siguiendo un modelo de procesos que atiende a tres criterios conformadores de la agenda: la selección de la noticia, quién accede a los medios y
con qué enfoques o frames lo hace. A través de un análisis de contenido de siete diarios, las conclusiones ayudan a comprender los tipos de cobertura aplicados, las diferencias entre periódicos y los procesos de creación de las agendas
de Agenda Building. En este artículo se explora el modo de construcción de la agenda en el caso del debate sobre el Estatut en el Parlamento español, siguiendo un modelo de procesos que atiende a tres criterios conformadores de la agenda: la selección de la noticia, quién accede a los medios y
con qué enfoques o frames lo hace. A través de un análisis de contenido de siete diarios, las conclusiones ayudan a comprender los tipos de cobertura aplicados, las diferencias entre periódicos y los procesos de creación de las agendas
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Sádaba, T., Kalbaska, N., Cominelli, F., Cantoni, L., & Torregrossa, M. (Eds). (2021). Fashion Communication. Proceedings of the FACTUM 21 Conference, Pamplona, Spain, 2021. Springer, Cham, 1-337. ISBN 978-3-030-81323-9 These conference... more
Sádaba, T., Kalbaska, N., Cominelli, F., Cantoni, L., & Torregrossa, M. (Eds). (2021). Fashion Communication. Proceedings of the FACTUM 21 Conference, Pamplona, Spain, 2021. Springer, Cham, 1-337. ISBN 978-3-030-81323-9
These conference proceedings are the output of one of the first academic events of its nature happening globally, targeting fashion from a communication sciences perspective, including, in a broad sense, cultural heritage studies and marketing. The chapters present theoretical and empirical interdisciplinary work on how various communication practices impact the fashion industry and on societal fashion-related practices and values. The special focus of this volume is how digital transformation is changing the field and its utility to practitioners. Using these academic insights, practitioners can understand the core causes and reasons for trends and developments in the field of fashion communication and marketing.
These conference proceedings are the output of one of the first academic events of its nature happening globally, targeting fashion from a communication sciences perspective, including, in a broad sense, cultural heritage studies and marketing. The chapters present theoretical and empirical interdisciplinary work on how various communication practices impact the fashion industry and on societal fashion-related practices and values. The special focus of this volume is how digital transformation is changing the field and its utility to practitioners. Using these academic insights, practitioners can understand the core causes and reasons for trends and developments in the field of fashion communication and marketing.
Research Interests:
La moda es un negocio situado siempre en la vanguardia de los cambios sociales. Por eso, ante la revolución digital, el sector está demostrando su rápida capacidad de transformación y adaptación a las nuevas relaciones creadas entre... more
La moda es un negocio situado siempre en la vanguardia de los cambios sociales. Por eso, ante la revolución digital, el sector está demostrando su rápida capacidad de transformación y adaptación a las nuevas relaciones creadas entre consumidores y empresas. Nuevos modelos de negocio, mutaciones de los ya existentes, híbridos entre lo digital y lo físico aparecen en un mapa diferente de posibilidades para el consumidor de moda. Su acercamiento a la oferta se hace desde distintos canales, y los puntos de interacción se multiplican. De este modo, la tradicional separación organizativa y externa entre negocio y comunicación en las empresas de moda se diluye y genera un nuevo sistema de trabajo. Moda en el entorno digital —el primer libro de la recién inaugurada colección ISEM-EUNSA— da a conocer estos nuevos retos, tanto para la industria de la moda como para los consumidores.
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The impact of the Internet on society has clearly changed the way we communicate, interact and consume. In the communication and marketing area institutional agents like companies try to find the best way to reach their consumers in the... more
The impact of the Internet on society has clearly changed the way we communicate, interact and consume. In the communication and marketing area institutional agents like companies try to find the best way to reach their consumers in the online scenario, but outsiders (such as fashion bloggers) are often able to achieve significant results by using Web 2.0-based tools and innovating the language of fashion communication.
Since the 1990s several studies have shown that marketing based on opinion leaders (Influentials/influencers) is one of the most successful strategies (Mowen, 1990; Weimann, 1994; Keller & Berry, 2003). Which are the personal characteristics of these leaders in fashion? Are fashion bloggers the new influencers? How do they interact with readers and brands? How do these leaders work in the Mediterranean Europe?
This paper explores these issues through a comparison between the Italian and Spanish fields of fashion blogging, where the rise of these new opinion leaders has begun later than in the Anglo-Saxon world, presenting the first Fashion Influentials comparative study between two countries.
The study is made of two sections: first, an opinion leadership questionnaire (sample: 200 bloggers, 100 for each country); second, a desk analysis of the twenty most popular blogs (ten for each country) with the highest level of visibility and their activity on the social media.
Findings show the profile of influential fashion blogger (personal characteristics, knowledge criteria and social factors) and the way they interact with their community and fashion companies.
From an interpretative point of view the paper (second in a series of comparative studies realized by the authors) aims at discussing fashion blogging as a social field able to change the way the whole system of fashion communication works.
Since the 1990s several studies have shown that marketing based on opinion leaders (Influentials/influencers) is one of the most successful strategies (Mowen, 1990; Weimann, 1994; Keller & Berry, 2003). Which are the personal characteristics of these leaders in fashion? Are fashion bloggers the new influencers? How do they interact with readers and brands? How do these leaders work in the Mediterranean Europe?
This paper explores these issues through a comparison between the Italian and Spanish fields of fashion blogging, where the rise of these new opinion leaders has begun later than in the Anglo-Saxon world, presenting the first Fashion Influentials comparative study between two countries.
The study is made of two sections: first, an opinion leadership questionnaire (sample: 200 bloggers, 100 for each country); second, a desk analysis of the twenty most popular blogs (ten for each country) with the highest level of visibility and their activity on the social media.
Findings show the profile of influential fashion blogger (personal characteristics, knowledge criteria and social factors) and the way they interact with their community and fashion companies.
From an interpretative point of view the paper (second in a series of comparative studies realized by the authors) aims at discussing fashion blogging as a social field able to change the way the whole system of fashion communication works.
Research Interests:
Resumen: Las campañas electorales se presentan como un marco propicio para el estudio de la relación medios-políticos, debido a la intensidad del flujo informativo y a las expectativas que se generan. El caso de las elecciones del 12 de... more
Resumen: Las campañas electorales se presentan como un marco propicio para el estudio de la relación medios-políticos, debido a la intensidad del flujo informativo y a las expectativas que se generan. El caso de las elecciones del 12 de marzo de 2000 en España resulta de gran interés debido a las novedades introducidas por las alineaciones políticas y las herramientas de marketing político desarrolladas. Desde la teoría de la mediación y tomando como punto de referencia el análisis de contenido de los titulares de dos periódicos (El País y El Mundo) se demuestra que los medios han tomado parte activa en el juego electoral. A través de la presencia de los actores políticos, de los temas introducidos y del tono de los mensajes publicados se perfila una campaña que podría denominarse como de "carrera de caballos". Palabras clave: comunicación política, campañas electorales, mediación, agenda pública, valoraciones políticas Abstract: Electoral campaigns are a propitious frame for the study of the relationship between media and politics, because of the intensity of the information flow and the generated expectations. The case of the elections of 2000, March the 12th in Spain is of great interest due to the new features introduced by the political alignments and the developed political marketing tools. Taking the mediation theory as a reference point and based upon content analysis data of headlines of two newspapers (El País and El Mundo) it is demostrated that media have taken an active part in the electoral game. Because of the presence of the political actors, the new subjects which have been introduced and the tone of the published message, this campaing could be outlined as a "horse racing" campaign. 1. Introducción Las últimas elecciones legislativas del 12 de marzo de 2000 han presentado peculiaridades muy interesantes para un análisis desde el punto de vista de la comunicación. El pacto de la izquierda, la intensidad de la pre-campaña1 o la definitiva instauración de Internet como medio de interacción entre el político y el ciudadano arrojaban cuestiones novedosas y una infinidad de interrogantes sobre la efectividad de las campañas en este panorama inédito. También la actuación de algunos medios ha suscitado dudas sobre el papel de los periodistas en las contiendas electorales y el servicio que pueden prestar a determinadas causas. Porque, siguiendo a Swanson, la nueva política está centrada en los medios. La intrusión de los medios en el proceso político y la incorporación de nuevas estrategias centradas en los medios es un proceso sin conclusión (Swanson, 1995). Y si esto sucede en cualquier acción política, la relación medios-políticos se estrecha mucho más en las contiendas electorales. Es en ellas cuando la búsqueda del voto demanda una mayor presencia en las plataformas públicas; los medios se convierten así en los instrumentos idóneos para llegar al mayor número de ciudadanos y pasan a ser un objeto preciado para los candidatos y partidos. Es decir, para los políticos el proceso de comunicación política sirve como agencia de persuasión disponible para movilizar el apoyo público a sus causas y puntos de vista más que como un canal de educación del electorado (Blumler y Gurevitch, 1995). Pero tampoco se puede olvidar que el interés de los políticos por llegar al votante es similar al que tienen los medios por incrementar sus
Recibido: 5.03 Aprobado: II 03 RESUMEN Los íísovimientrís sociales y los medios de comísunicación adquieren un creciente protagonisuso en un espacio públi-co, anipliado costras posibilidades no institucionales o tradicionaLmente... more
Recibido: 5.03 Aprobado: II 03 RESUMEN Los íísovimientrís sociales y los medios de comísunicación adquieren un creciente protagonisuso en un espacio públi-co, anipliado costras posibilidades no institucionales o tradicionaLmente oficiales. Sin embargo, tanto los movmnímen-nos como los medios impulsan y dilcmndemí modos diversos dc concebir el mundo, y lo hacen mediante Lo que la in-vestigación académica ha demícunmimíedo conio mareos o frames. En las últimas décadas, desde la teoría dcl encuadre o del framing se ijitente dar umía explicación ala construcción social dele realidad a través de Los significados y de Les interpreteciounes. El presente [rebajo expone Las similitudes y diferencies de esta teoría en estos dos ámbitos movilización ecuiectiva y nnedioss dc comuuicacióuí— no sielíspre explorados de manera conjunte. Además, se pre-senta un caso paradigmático cmi el que [rusmarcos de acción comiecciva parecen ir de la mano dc los frames periodís-ticos: has movilizaciones y cohícutuma que tuvo el casos del secuestro y poisterior asesinato de Miguel Ángel Blanco eh España A partir del caso presentado. se llega a conclusiomnes que permiten esclarecer lineas de investigación con-juntas y uííodoms efectivos de aplicación de los mísereos. PALABRAS CLAvE: sociombogía míicr 1uretativa. uiovimicntcss sociales, teoría del framiug, prensa, cobertura dc terrorismo ABSTRACT Social moveníents aud the media acquire an iucreasing role in the publie sphere; they broaden posibilities no noninsti-ttítional actcmrs Howcver. mouveríieuts aud the mísedia prosmísote and spread differenc ways of world understauding, aud tbey do char with what is called by the academical rescarch es frames. Oven nhe lasn decadesframing theory has been tnied <o give en explanation [brmhe social comnstruecion of rcaiity through useanings aud interpretations. This work shows che similiraties and differeuces cmi nhis thcory u two arcas —soscial movements and media— whieh have uot beco ab-ways studied rcsgecher. Mosreosver. a paradigní case is shown es case study, where colective actitun frames and mísedia fremes work togecher TUs is risc case osf the kidnapping and murder of Miguel Amígel Blanco in Spaiíí. Froisí this case, Wc arrive to sosme conehusiomís whsich ailow ns tos clear oun new rescarch trends and ways 00 apphy fremes.