A COMPANION
TO ANCIENT
THRACE
Edited by
Julia Valeva, Emil Nankov,
and Denver Graninger
This edition first published 2015
© 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
A companion to ancient Thrace / edited by Julia Valeva, Emil Nankov, and Denver Graninger.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-4443-5104-0 (cloth)
1. Thrace–History–To 1362. 2. Thrace–Antiquities. I. Valeva, Julia, editor, author. II. Nankov, Emil,
editor, author. III. Graninger, Denver, editor, author.
DR50.6.C66 2015
939′.861–dc23
2014047937
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Cover image: Apollo (?) on a chariot drawn by winged horses, detail from a jug from the Rogozen hoard,
4th century BC. Regional Museum of History, Vratsa, Bulgaria / photo by Nikolai Genov.
Set in 9.5/11.5pt Galliard by SPi Publisher Services, Pondicherry, India
1
2015
Contents
Editors’ Preface
Notes on Contributors
Abbreviations
Part I
1
Thrace and Thracians
An Introduction to Studying Ancient Thrace
Nikola Theodossiev
ix
xi
xiv
1
3
2 Geography
Jan Bouzek and Denver Graninger
12
3
22
Ethnicity and Ethne
Denver Graninger
Part II
History
33
4
Early History of Thrace to the Murder of Kotys I (360 BCE)
Michael Zahrnt
35
5
Thrace from the Assassination of Kotys I to Koroupedion (360–281 BCE)
Peter Delev
48
6 From Koroupedion to the Beginning of the Third Mithridatic War (281–73 BCE)
Peter Delev
59
7
Roman Thrace
Ivaylo Lozanov
75
8
Thrace in Late Antiquity
Boyan Dumanov
91
Part III
Evidence
9 Settlements
Hristo Popov
107
109
vi
Contents
10
Dolmens and Rock-Cut Monuments
Georgi Nekhrizov
126
11
“Ritual Pits”
Rumyana Georgieva
144
12
Tomb Architecture
Daniela Stoyanova
158
13
The Decoration of Thracian Chamber Tombs
Julia Valeva
180
14
Gold, Silver, and Bronze Vessels
Julia Valeva
197
15 Adornments
Milena Tonkova
212
16
229
The Pottery of Ancient Thrace
Anelia Bozkova
17 Inscriptions
Dan Dana
18
Introduction to the Numismatics of Thrace, ca. 530 BCE–46 CE
Evgeni I. Paunov
Part IV
19
Influence and Interaction
The Greek Colonists
Margarit Damyanov
243
265
293
295
20 Athens
Matthew A. Sears
308
21 Persia
Maya Vassileva
320
22
Thracian and Macedonian Kingship
William S. Greenwalt
337
23
Thracians and Scythians: Tensions, Interactions and Osmosis
David Braund
352
24 Celts
Julij Emilov
366
Part V
383
25
Controversies
Social Life of Thrace
Zosia Archibald
26 Urbanization
Emil Nankov
385
399
Contents
vii
27 Trade
Chavdar Tzochev
412
28 Warfare
Totko Stoyanov
426
29 Religion
Kostadin Rabadjiev
443
Index
457
CHAPTER 15
Adornments
Milena Tonkova
15.1
Introduction
This chapter provides an introduction to major developments in jewelry fashion in Thrace ca.
1200–1,1 with an emphasis on sociopolitical context. Adornments decorating the body and
dress are among the most evocative monuments of Thracian culture. In elite Thracian society,
they marked the wealth and power of the wearer, as well as the religious or ceremonial
functions performed by the individual; only secondarily did they function as simple decoration.
During the Classical period, the Early Iron Age foundations of Thracian jewelry fashion were
thoroughly transformed; jewelry became distinctly elitist and was adapted by elites in the
emerging states of Thrace, above all the Odrysian kingdom, to mark their new political and
social status. In the early Hellenistic period, jewelry fashion became strongly influenced by
broader trends in the Hellenistic world. After the mid-third century, while jewelry fashion of
the coastal Greek cities continued to follow broader trends in Greek jewelry, inland Thrace
pursued a different trajectory; there Celtic influence prevails, while Greek fashion is less
prominent.
15.2
The Early Iron Age, 1200–500
To fully appreciate the transformation of jewelry in Thrace in the Classical period, it will be
useful to begin with a preliminary sketch of the Early Iron Age background (Gergova 1980;
1987). Jewelry used in this period was made of bronze, iron, silver, amber, and, less often,
gold. Most common during the twelfth and eleventh century were bronze, single-spiral
fibulae with twisted bow, as well as double-spiral fibulae with a high triangular plate and bow
with knobs; the hoard of gold earrings and silver belts from Barzitsa (Gergova 1982) is also
dated to this period. Fibulae of the eighth and seventh century are of the single- or doublespiral type, large, made of bronze, and, in some regions like the Rhodope mountains, also in
iron. During the seventh and sixth centuries, the fibulae become lighter and gradually display
simpler ornamentation; the bows are knobbed, twisted, quadrangular, or round in section.
Single-spiral fibulae have smaller dimensions with either a low triangular or high quadrangular
A Companion to Ancient Thrace, First Edition. Edited by Julia Valeva, Emil Nankov, and Denver Graninger.
© 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Published 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Adornments
213
catch plate. The so-called Thessalian-type fibulae appear in western Thrace at this time. At
first, such fibulae are heavy, with incised geometric decoration; later their size is reduced and
the cuttings on top of the catch plate become V-shaped. Both early and later versions are
often made of silver. Developments within this type are thought to have led to the emergence
of the typical, Thracian-type fibulae of the Late Iron Age.
Of the adornments associated with dress, round pendants and open-work belts appear
popular in northwestern Thrace. The bracelets are heavy, made in bronze, and have tapered
ends and geometric designs. Torques are rare and have a twisted body. Earrings, usually
hoops made in bronze or silver, are also uncommon; the so-called “nail-shaped” type is also
present. The large, gold, boat-shaped earrings from the Barzitsa hoard are unique. Necklaces
include amber beads, beads made of spiral twisted bronze wire or strip components (e.g.,
so-called saltaleone), or cylindrical bronze beads. Open bracelets with overlapping spiral
terminals or gold, ring-shaped ornaments served as hand and hair ornaments. Finds of gold
and silver diadems, as well as pectorals, are extremely rare at this time.
15.3
The Early Classical Period, ca. 500–375
Assemblages and general characteristics
Adornments are known from relatively few, rich burial assemblages, ca. 500–350. While these
are concentrated along the upper and middle reaches of the Maritsa (anc. Hebros) and
Tundzha (anc. Tonzos) Rivers, the likely core of the Odrysian kingdom, such finds are also
known from Getic territories of northeastern Thrace. Adornments are typically associated
with weapons in presumed warrior burials.2 An exception is provided by the three rich,
weapon-free graves in Kukuva, Mushovitsa, and Arabadzhiyska tumuli from the famous
necropolis at Duvanli (Filov 1934). These are traditionally interpreted as female burials (Filov
1934, 190), though, according to A. Fol (1983, 5) these too are of males.
The earliest complexes in Odrysian territory are from Duvanli. The burials in Kukuva and
Mushovitsa tumuli date to the mid-fifth century, while that from the Arabadzhiyska tumulus
belongs to the final third of the fifth century (Archibald 1998, 162–165). Associated with
these burials were splendid sets of head and body ornaments, consisting of numerous hoop
or boat-shaped earrings, pendants for earrings, a necklace, a torque, bracelets, finger-rings,
chains with pendants and fibulae, and pectorals; most of these finds were previously unfamiliar to the Thracian jewelry repertoire. Many rich warrior burials can also be dated to the
middle and second half of the fifth century, which contain weapons, gold pectorals, and often
gold rings, as in, for example, tumulus no. 1 near Chernozem (Kisyov 2005) and Golyamata
tumulus near Duvanli, among others. In two burials from the Svetitsa tumulus near Shipka,
dated ca. 450–400 (Kitov 2006, 85–91), and from Dalakova mound near Topolchane, dated
ca. 400–375 (Kitov and Dimitrov 2008), the gold rings are not associated with pectorals, but
with impressive gold funerary masks. Rich warrior burials are found also in Getic territories,
containing weapons as well as gold breastplates and other categories of gold ornament. For
example, a grave with weapons and horse trappings dated to the late fifth century from
Golemanite also contained a torque, bracelets, pendant-amulets, and a breastplate (Tsarov
2008); similarly rich complexes are known from Koprivets (Stanchev 1997, 38) and Dolishte
(Doncheva 2004).
The mid-fifth-century transformation of Thracian jewelry fashion was radical. It is marked
by both the increased use of gold and the introduction of new types of earrings, necklaces,
and rings. Greek-style adornments, employing the technical resources of Greek jewelry art,
are the prevalent finds. These are either cast or made in the repoussé style, decorated with
214
Milena Tonkova
granulation and, less often, filigree. The earliest adornments with granulation and filigree are:
the earrings, earring pendants, necklaces, and bracelets from the three rich, so-called
“priestess” burials from Duvanli of the mid-fifth century; the ring and bead-amulet from
Golemanite; and the earrings, crescent-shaped pendant, and fibula from Koprivets. Glyptic
items, like scaraboid rings, also mark their first appearance, as do glass beads. These are
restricted to the Odrysian territories. The repoussé technique is widely applied in the
decoration of the breastplates – for freehand tracing or punching the ornaments.
Adornments from Odrysian territories are quite diverse stylistically. Most of the Duvanli
necropolis artifacts can be included among the principal Greek jewelry forms that come in
many variants. The circulation of these items in Thrace, however, is specific. The earrings,
earring pendants, and necklaces have distinctly Greek manufacture and are often cited as
classical examples of the Greek jewelry art of the time (Higgins 1961, 122–124, 213;
Deppert-Lippitz 1985, 122–130, 145–150); rings with a horseman adhere to Greek
models, but are fashioned after a local style (Boardman 1970, 214, 230). The torque is of
a known late Early Iron Age type. The bracelets, breastplates, and fibulae have prototypes
in the Archaic and early Classical jewelry craft of the northern Balkan peninsula and
Macedonia. Details in the composition of these popular models, however, render them
unique, such as the use of gold and the employment of decorative techniques previously
unknown in Thrace, like filigree and granulation. Therefore, analysis of the Duvanli
adornments is two-fold. On the one hand, all basic forms have analogues in Greek and
Macedonian jewelry (Venedikov and Gerasimov 1973, 99–108; Archibald 1998,
190–194; Tonkova 2000–2001; Tonkova and Penkova 2010). Yet, by and large, the
Duvanli headdresses, made up of six or ten earrings, combined with earring pendants, are
unique, with no comparanda outside of the necropolis. It would thus appear to be an
original Thracian headdress, possibly part of an evocative ceremonial costume; the model
was designed for the Odrysian elite and might be considered their distinctive mark
(Tonkova 1997a, 18–22; Tonkova and Penkova 2010).
Hence, one may reach the conclusion that the new Thracian repertoire of splendid gold
adornments from the fifth century was not primarily the result of fashion trends. Such jewelry
satisfied efforts to invent a unique insignia of authority, recognizable to subjects, allies, and
enemies alike. The distinctive Greek traits in the earliest adornments from the Odrysian territories, combined with elements characteristic of Thrace alone, suggest that Greek artisans
and goldsmiths, who may have been stationed in inland Thrace with the Odrysian court,
influenced the appearance of these ceremonial items (Tonkova 1998; Tonkova 2000–2001;
Tonkova and Penkova 2010).
The Getic early Classical jewelry fashion seems rather more eclectic. Adornments found
here mirror the interactions of the Getae with Greeks, Illyrians, and Scythians. Even
Achaemenid jewelry has been found in several sets, as well as a fibula from north Italy. Gold
pectorals are again the distinctive trait of the Getic adornments; recalling forms known from
the Odrysian territories, they testify to contacts between the Getae and the Odrysian realm
(Tonkova 2000–2001).
Categories of jewelry
Hoop- and boat-shaped earrings, with a long history in Greek and Near Eastern traditions
and with numerous variants, spread in Thrace in the mid-fifth century. Made in gold, with
thickened body and spherical and conical beads at the ends, they feature fine granulation and
filigree. At Duvanli these come not in pairs, but in sets of six or ten that are uncharacteristic
of Greek customs. In the three “female” burials from Duvanli discussed above, they
Adornments
215
are associated with omega-shaped and spiral earring pendants, forming together a unique
headdress. A distinctive type of hoop earring, with a pyramid featuring granulation at one tip,
appeared for the first time during this period at Koprivets; although derivative of Greek
models, the type was created and developed as genuine Thracian jewelry, which remained in
the local repertoire until the end of the fourth century.
Another mid-fifth-century premiere is the classic Greek necklace composed of biconical
and spherical beads alternating with complex, composite beads of supporting and suspended
elements. Three examples come from the Duvanli “female” burials. The necklace from
Kukuva tumulus has a central flower bud pendant (Figure 15.1), while the Arabadzhiyska
tumulus necklace features fine granulation. Though of recognized Greek types, they find no
exact comparanda outside of Thrace. The many similarities among the three imply that they
came from the same atelier attending to Thracian elites. From the Getic territories come a
necklace of fluted tubes and large flower-bud pendants (Dolishte), as well as single pendantamulets of different shapes: crescent (Koprivets), pyramidal, or biconical (Golemanite). Glass
beads also appear during this period; instead of being strung together, at this time they were
likely worn individually or in combination with other elements as amulets. The necklace of
bronze saltaleones combined with glass beads is considered an Early Iron Age survival
(Tonkova and Penkova 2010, 204, pl. Х.2). The gold cylindrical elements with transverse
flutes, in imitation of the earlier saltaleones that are known from Dolishte, are another innovation of the time.
Torques were also transformed. While the twisted wires and outward-bent terminals of the
omega-shaped torque from Duvanli’s Kukuva tumulus recall the previous age, it is now quite
heavy and made of gold. The Golemanite gold torque, with tapering terminals, is a novel type
with parallels in Scythian contexts.
Fifth-century bracelet shapes are also novel. These heavy, open hoops are now made of
gold. Similar to models from the Near East, the terminals of the bracelet depict animal heads.
Figure 15.1 Gold necklace from Kukuva mogila near Duvanli, Plovdiv province. Middle of fifth
century BCE. National Archaeological Museum, Sofia, inv. 6193, 6136. Photo by Krasimir Georgiev.
216
Milena Tonkova
Bracelets with stylized representations of snake heads from Duvanli’s Kukuva tumulus are
very close to characteristically Macedonian, more precisely Chalcidic models, yet their
ornamentation with large granules is unique to gold items. Bracelets with antelope-head (?)
terminals from Dolishte are believed to be imports from Anatolia (Doncheva 2004, 126).
Bronze spiral and open hoop bracelets with snake-head terminals and fashioned in a distinctive local style are recovered chiefly from pit sanctuaries (Tonkova and Penkova 2010,
205, pl. Х.2).
The classic, hoop-and-bezel shape of finger-rings appears for the first time in Thracian
warrior burials in the mid-fifth century. Archaic traits in some artifacts suggest considerably
earlier manufacture. The two foremost Greek types are heavy, all-metal rings with decorated bezel and rings with a swivel bezel with gem, the so-called scaraboids. Another rare
type, with granulated bezel and hoop in archaic fashion, is represented by the Golemanite
ring. The massive gold signet rings with incised representations of a horseman and the
name of the owner (Duvanli, Golyamata, and Arabadzhiyska tumuli) become increasingly
characteristic of the Odrysian elite and enjoy a long development. The horseman theme
evolves into an investiture scene by the end of the fourth century. Unlike the heavy signet
rings, gem scaraboids were produced in Greek workshops and had a fleeting presence in
Thrace. The rings from tumulus 1 at Chervenkovi Mogili near Brezovo, from Chernozem,
and from Krushare have chalcedony and agate gems, with deities, athletes, and warriors
rendered in refined Greek style. These early glyptic items disappear after the fifth century.
One later local imitation is the famous Ezerovo ring, all gold and engraved with a Thracian
inscription in Greek letters (Venedikov and Gerasimov 1973, 374, no. 206).
Chains attached by fibulae are also first found in the fifth century. The earliest examples are
loop-in-loop gold chains with flower-bud pendants from Mushovitsa tumulus, Duvanli. The
pendants are attached to the edges of a breastplate by three gold “Thracian type” fibulae.
Thus there emerges an upper body adornment for elites in Thrace, distinctive of the region,
and rendered in several variants until the end of the fourth century (Tonkova 1998).
The entire spectrum of Early Iron Age fibulae gradually blended together before being
replaced in the fifth century by the simplified and elegant model of the single-spiral, bowshaped fibula of so-called “Thracian type.” Examples are known from throughout the entire
territory of ancient Thrace over the course of the following centuries. Among the earliest
examples are the three gold fibulae from Mushovitsa tumulus in the Duvanli necropolis dated
to the mid-fifth century. Gold fibulae are attested only during this period; gold fibulae have
also been found at Koprivets and Dolishte. The Dolishte fibula retains the form of the
Thessalian type, but, like contemporary Greek models, has a hollow bow made in repoussé of
gold sheet. Occasionally, the boat-shaped “Italian type” fibulae appear, such as the gold fibula
from Koprivets (Tonkova 2000–2001, 283–287). Early variations of hinged fibulae in bronze
are attested at Pernik and Pistiros, the core distribution area of which was the central Balkans
(Vasileva 2012, 34; Vasic 1999, 103, 105, type I, II).
Gold, ornamented pectorals were invariable components of Thracian ceremonial dress and
armor in the fifth century. These were a characteristic marker of Thracian elites and remained
so throughout the Classical and early Hellenistic period. The pectorals are diamond, crescent,
or oval shaped and usually decorated with embossed geometric motifs, and also figural scenes,
normally arranged around a stylized “tree of life” motif. Pectorals are found in almost all rich
burials in Thrace, from the Odrysian and Getic territories alike (Venedikov and Gerasimov
1973, 103–105). The earliest and most impressive examples, from Dalboki, Duvanli, and
Chernozem, are decorated with figural and floral designs inspired by Greek and Oriental
themes and styles; they are also very large and heavy: the Chernozem pectoral, for example,
is made of 1 mm thick, 23 carat gold sheet, measures 31 cm x 27 cm, and weighs 132.80 g
(Kisyov 2005, 48).
Adornments
15.4
217
The Late Classical Period, ca. 375–325
The burial assemblages of this time are less numerous, but equally impressive in terms of
wealth. Immensely rich warrior burials remain traditional in Odrysian territory. A rich male
burial in Dalakova tumulus, near Topolchane, is dated approximately to the second quarter of
the fourth century. The burial gifts include a gold mask, a gold phiale, silver rhyta, and a gold
signet ring with a portrait of a ruler and the engraved names of Seuthes and Teres (Kitov and
Dimitrov 2008). In another exceptionally rich burial of a young man from Zlatinitsa, there was
placed a gold wreath, ornamented gold appliqués that have been interpreted as diadem segments, and a gold ring, as well as a silver greave depicting what has been interpreted as the
Thracian Great Goddess (cf. Chapter 29); a nearly identical greave is known from Agighiol
(Sȋrbu 2006, 90). These finds were accompanied by expensive sets of drinking vessels and a full
set of armor; the burial is dated to the mid-fourth century (Agre 2011) or a little later. Similar
finds are known from Rosovets and the Mogilanskata tumulus in Vratsa (Agre 2011, 31–44).
The gold fittings from Topolchane and Zlatinitsa reflect an important moment in the
evolution of the insignia used by Thracian elites. On the one hand, there is a clear attempt
towards self-definition in the creation and use of distinctive markers of power and status, such
as the gold signet rings that appear to present an investiture scene in which a goddess bestows
the insignia of authority upon a horsemen, interpreted as a ruler. Local elites can also be seen
to attempt to identify themselves with contemporary political elites outside of Thrace, especially the Macedonian kings. So, for example, gold wreaths and other luxury items that match
those found in royal Macedonian tombs begin to appear in Thracian warrior burials at this
time. Close dating of these assemblages has proved elusive, unfortunately, and it remains
unclear whether the peak of their distribution should be placed in the third or, more probably, last quarter of the fourth century (Tonkova 2013).
A rich assemblage from a tumulus near Kapinovo, dated to the mid-fourth century, features
bronze and silver serving sets, Greek Red-Figure ceramics, and a unique piece to adorn the
upper body or head, consisting of several long chains with flower-bud pendants and one pendant with a ram’s head in local style (Tonkova 1998; Antikenmuseum Basel 2007, no. 122).
Gold buttons, the first to be discovered in Thrace, belonging to a Greek chiton that was
placed as an offering, were also recovered in the burial. The distribution of buttons in Thrace
was limited and restricted to the second half of the fourth and early third century (Tonkova
1997a, 25).
In the second half of the fourth century, evidence for Thracian adornments is enriched by
numerous iconographic monuments, especially toreutic artifacts and ceremonial armor with
depictions of real jewelry. Ceremonial gilded silver helmets, for example, are often decorated
with laurel and ivy wreaths, and the divine female personae featured on ceremonial silver greaves
from Zlatinista (Agre 2011, 50) and Agighiol (Sȋrbu 2006, 90) wear torques, necklaces, and
earrings that correspond to finds known in the region. Furthermore, clothes with buttons and
agraphae (brooches), ivy wreaths, and other decorations are depicted upon the vessels from the
Borovo hoard. The goddesses from the Panagyurishte treasure wear diadems and necklaces.
15.5
The Early Hellenistic Period, ca. 325–250
Assemblages and general characteristics
After the mid-fourth century, the appearance of adornments gradually changed. Typically
late Classical forms evolved and inspired the creation of true masterpieces of the Thracian
school, such as the silver adornment from Bukjovtsi (Figure 15.2). At the same time, many
218
Milena Tonkova
Figure 15.2 Silver adornment from Bukjovtsi (modern Miziya), Vratsa province. Second half of
fourth century BCE. National Archaeological Museum, Sofia, inv. 2558-A. Photo by Krasimir Georgiev.
new Greek models and decorative techniques defining the style of early Hellenistic jewelry
art were introduced, including the use of incrustation, enamel, and polychromy: Thrace
became part of the Hellenistic jewelry koine (Tonkova 1997a). Moreover, the early
Hellenistic jewelry fashion in Thrace grew more democratic: rich burials with many gold
adornments became less numerous, while single items appeared in a greater number of
burial complexes, and artifacts of the same type were rendered in both precious and base
metals.
Imposing sets of multiple gold ornaments were found in several very rich tumulus burials
from inland Thrace. As previously, the most numerous and finest examples come from the
Odrysian territories. Gold and silver chain necklaces and a gold ring with investiture scene
were recovered from Malkata tumulus in the Kazanlak valley, dated to the end of the fourth
century (Kitov 2005; Kitov and Tonkova 1996; Antikenmuseum Basel 2007, nos. 140–144).
Tumulus 1 near Seuthopolis and the Mal-tepe tumulus near Mezek (Filov 1937, 7–79) have
yielded lion’s-head hoop earrings and necklaces with conical beads, which constitute the typical adornment set for the early Hellenistic period. From the Getic territories comes the
rich grave from Kralevo, with lion’s-head earrings, snake-shaped bracelets, and a gold horse
harness (Ginev 1983).
A new jewelry center with its own style was established in Triballian territory in northwestern Thrace, known from numerous hoards in which silver jewelry is prominent. The
original adornment composed of hinged fibulae, chains, and pendants with human masks
from Bukjovtsi (Figure 15.2), together with wide lamellar bracelets and hinged fibulae from
the Vladinya, Granitovo, and Stalijska mahala hoards (Dimitrova 1966), make up a peculiar
regional horizon of silver jewelry items. These are among the most representative objects
produced in Thrace in the late fourth century. Other finds, like the gold wreath, disc earrings
Adornments
219
with boat-shaped pendants, gold ornamented appliqués, and gold amphora-shaped pendants
from tomb 3 in Mogilanskata tumulus near Vratsa (Torbov 2005) reflect the interactions of
local elites with the Macedonian court and novel trends in local goldsmith production.
During this period, jewelry is found primarily in graves without weapons, which are
thought to be female burials. The iconography of some artifacts supports this interpretation.
Adornments worn by goddesses and noble Thracian women represented on greaves,
luxury banquet sets, and frescoes from Thracian tombs correspond to actual finds; for
example, the Athena represented on the greaves from the Golyamata Kosmatka tumulus near
Shipka, dated to the late fourth or early third century, wears a diadem and earrings; earrings
and a luxurious necklace consisting of a band and pendants are depicted on the griffin’s-head
hilt of the parade sword from the same burial (Kitov 2006, 77–79; Tonkova 2012, 720). In
rare cases burial finds suggest that jewelry characteristic of female burials was worn by men as
well. In the Malkata tumulus near Shipka, for example, ornaments like earrings, bracelets,
necklaces, and a ring with an investiture scene are found alongside scepters and other attributes of royal and priestly authority, which were the exclusive prerogative of males; anthropological analysis of the skeleton recovered from the Malkata tumulus confirms it as a male
burial (Kitov 2005, 252).
Further evidence for the repertoire, professional orientation, and location of the Thracian
workshops is provided by the numerous instruments for fine metalworking recovered to date,
chiefly in northern Thrace. Punches with floral and figural motives, dies and formers, chisels,
anvils, and tweezers come from a number of fortified Thracian centers, such as Sveshtari,
Dragoevo, Seuthopolis, Ruen, and Pistiros; the Varna, Shumen, and Vratsa Regional
Museums of History keep rich collections of instruments that have been found in their
respective districts. Thus it is now generally accepted that jewelry workshops functioned in
each prominent Thracian center, as well as near Thracian sanctuaries (Tonkova 1994; Tonkova
1999; Antonov 2007).
Many early Hellenistic gold ornaments have been found in the cemeteries of the west
Pontic Greek colonies (Minchev 1979; Dimitrova 1989; Pfrommer 1990, FK110; Tonkova
1997b; Tonkova 2002; Oppermann 2004, 202–205). They, together with the north Aegean
cities, are among the trendsetters in jewelry fashion in Thrace. Workshops serving the
Thracian elite may also have been stationed there. Each colony maintained its own unique
style, despite some common repertoire features, like lion’s-head earrings. Local fashion is
revealed, for example, in the gold jewelry from the tumular and non-tumular burials of
Odessos and its hinterland, including richly ornamented discoid ear-studs, necklaces of
composite beads with bull’s-head pendants, rings with either female heads or an Eros on the
bezel, and discoid brooches; a pyramidal pendant with blue and green filigree enamel is
among the earliest examples of polychromous jewelry from Thrace (Tonkova 1997b, 83–87).
Sumptuous gold band necklaces with pendants and lion’s-head earrings in a set with beaded
necklaces have been found in the necropolis of Mesambria (Antikenmuseum Basel 2007, no.
105, 106).
Gold horse trappings from Mezek, Kralevo, and Kavarna, among other locations, all dated
ca. 300–250, and recently discovered trappings from Golyamata tumulus near Sveshtari
(Gergova 2012), are distinct in Thrace for being made in a “jewelry style” (Tonkova 1997a,
28–29; Tonkova 2011b); the decoration of their ornamented plates utilizes models, motifs,
and jewelry techniques that are characteristic of Greek style jewelry, like filigree, granulation,
and enamel. Some are comparable to the best Greek examples (Kavarna, Sveshtari), while
others have ornaments in local styles (Ivanski, Mezek). Since decorative trappings are not part
of the Greek tradition, these examples in gold from Thrace were possibly specially
commissioned from the same artisans in the region who made jewelry for Thracian elites
(Tonkova 2011b).
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The first La Tène imports appear in Thrace at the end of the fourth and during the first half
of the third century. The finds of fibulae in early La Tène scheme and distinctive gold ornaments, like the Gorni Cibar torque, as well as pseudo-filigree and pseudo-granulation jewelry
in bronze and glass bracelets from northwestern Thrace, are indicative of contacts with Celts
and the La Tène world of central Europe (Domaradzki 1980, 1984; Anastassov 2006;
Lazarov 2006; Еmilov 2010; Vasileva 2012, 5–33; see also Chapter 25). The cohabitation of
Thracians, Celts, and Greeks in northwestern Thrace and in the Kazanlak valley was at the
foundation of the cultural synergy of the late fourth and early third century that is reflected
in the local styles of personal ornaments (Tonkova 2006).
Categories of jewelry
While breastplates remain in use during the early Hellenistic period, their quality deteriorates
(Venedikov and Gerasimov 1973, 104; Tonkova, 1997a, 22). They are less carefully made
and have smaller dimensions; if they are made of gold, it is of thin sheet, but quite often they
are rendered in silver; ornamentation is inferior and schematic, while their inclusion in graves,
it seems, was symbolic.
The new insignia of Thracian elites were gold wreaths (Tonkova 2013). Wreaths found at
Zlatinitsa, Rozovets, and in the Mogilanskata tumulus near Vratsa are associated with rich
complexes dated to the middle of the third or fourth quarter of the fourth century and share
many common features. The Zlatinitsa wreath consists of olive branches and a Nike, while the
Rozovets and Vratsa finds are almost identical laurel wreaths. These were executed in a naturalistic style and are among the most representative examples of Greek jewelry art. Traces of
cork or resin on the berries on the laurel branches suggest that the wreaths were safely packed
to prevent damage during transportation and may indicate that they were meant to be used
by the living. These pieces were likely the work of prominent Aegean ateliers, where gold
wreaths were quite popular at this time. Their dissemination in Thrace can be linked to
political contacts between local elites and their counterparts outside of Thrace, especially
Macedonians. A splendid oak wreath from the tomb of Seuthes III in the Golyamata Kosmatka
tumulus near Shipka confirms this proposition. It is comparable to the gold wreath from
tomb 2 at Vergina (Kitov 2006, 74), that has recently been dated to the late fourth century
(Pfrommer 1990, 259, FK 111; Borza and Palagia 2007). The wreath from the Golyama
Kosmatka tumulus furnishes one of many arguments for the high rank of the individual
buried there and suggests that he maintained political contacts with the Macedonian court.
Imitations of these splendid gold wreaths in bronze and clay are also known.
Ceremonial gold diadems of the late fourth century are rare in Thrace. One gold pediment
diadem with figural designs is known from Shapladere near Alexandroupolis (Venedikov and
Gerasimov 1973, no. 249). From inland Thrace the type is only known from the goddesses
depicted on the rhyta from the Panagyurishte hoard (Tonkova 2005) and the Athena represented on the greaves from the tomb in the Golyamata Kosmatka tumulus near Shipka (Kitov
2006, 76–77). Another ceremonial type known from the rich tombs of the Macedonian
elites, the openwork gold diadem with tendrils, is so far known in Thrace only from a single
fine gold branch from the tomb in Momina tumulus, near Bratya Daskalovi, in the Chirpan
Heights region (Tonkova 2012).
Hoop earrings with a granulated pyramidal tag remain a popular element of the ceremonial
headdress, now larger in size and made of gold or silver. Among the new earring types introduced into Thrace, only the lion’s-head hoop earrings are found in large number, equally
common in coastal and inland Thrace (Dimitrova 1989). Disc-shaped earrings with rich filigree decoration, typical of the “opulent style” in late fourth-century Greek jewelry, are only
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found in the city and hinterland of Odessos, where there also was discovered a pair of discoid
earrings with a Nike figurine, listed among the masterpieces of its time (Jackson 2011). The
splendid “Ionian type” boat-shaped earrings, consisting of an ornamented disk with boatpendant, a very popular Greek model of the third and last quarter of the fourth century, are
only represented by the gold set from the Mogilanskata tumulus near Vratsa (Tonkova 1997a,
21, 23). Simple necklaces of beads with conical finials are popular at this time, occasionally
featuring a central pendant; a wide range of types is known, however, including various pendant, chain, and band necklaces. The golden necklace with amphora pendants covered with
very fine granulation discovered in Malkata mogila near Shipka is among the masterpieces of
Hellenistic jewelry (e.g., Tonkova 1997a, 23; Tonkova 1998; Tonkova 2005; Kitov 2005;
Tonkova 2012). The gold band necklace with spearhead pendants from Mesambria is to date
the only example of a late fourth-century Greek “opulent style” necklace.
The complex, composite, silver breast ornament from Bukjovtsi, obviously ceremonial in
function, includes hinged fibulae that are typical in Thrace, through which chains pass with
human mask-shaped and floral pendants (Venedikov and Gerasimov 1973, 210–211); it is
among the best examples of jewelry from Thrace in the second half of the fourth century (for
the date, see Tonkova 1998; Tonkova 2011a) and demonstrates mastery of all fundamental
goldsmith techniques: casting, forging, stamping, chiseling, filigree, and granulation. The
human mask pendants became a trademark of late fourth-century Thracian jewelry workshops, used commonly for both personal ornaments and horse trappings (Tonkova 1998).
During the early Hellenistic period, torques were still fashionable in Thrace (Ivanova 1988,
10–12). While the torque with terminals bent outward remained in fashion, with attested
examples in silver and round in section, a new local type in silver appeared with twisted wires
and flat triangular terminals. Standing apart from local finds, the Gorni Tsibar gold torque
with spherical terminals and plastic floral decoration in “Waldalgesheim” style is exemplary of
the Celtic presence in the Danube basin in the late fourth and early third century (Venedikov
and Gerasimov 1973, no. 254; Domaradski 1984, 139).
There are various styles of Thracian bracelets. Local types are made of silver, while the new
Hellenistic models are of gold. From the previous period continues the open hoop bracelet
with snake-head finials (Kabile). Silver lamellar bracelets are typical of the Triballian territory
in northwestern Thrace (Dimitrova 1966, 120–122; for the date, see Tonkova 1998, 750–
751; Tonkova 2011a, 191). The gold snake-bracelets from Kralevo and Aytos in eastern
Thrace are realistically shaped and reflect Greek influence; to this group belong also the
bracelets ending with animal heads (Venedikov and Gerasimov 1973, no. 252, 193; Ginev
1983; Tonkova 1997a, 24). Recently, a specific group of ornaments, cast in bronze in a peculiar pseudo-filigree and pseudo-granulation technique, was identified in northeastern
Bulgaria; such finds are characteristic of the Celtic cultural circle (Anastassov 2006; Tonkova
2006). Possibly associated with the Celtic presence in the region are also some distinctive
glass bracelets (Domaradski 1984, 140).
Early Hellenistic rings are of two types: with engravings or with figural motifs in relief on
the bezel. While the former was typical throughout Thrace, the latter was particularly
characteristic of Odessos, where examples with Eros and head of Aphrodite have been found.
The homogeneous group of gold signet rings depicting a horseman or investiture scene
remained restricted to Odrysian territory; such scenes are also found on the rings from
Glozhene, Brezovo, Rozovets, and Malkata tumulus near Shipka, and on wall paintings in
Thracian tombs (e.g., Venedikov and Gerasimov 1973, no. 207, 209; Tonkova 1997a, 21,
24; Kitov 2005). New motifs gained popularity, including sphinxes, snakes, griffins, tortoises,
and grapes (Kitov 2006, 93). Engraved iron and bronze rings were also very popular, particularly in Odrysian territories, and feature Greek deities like Hermes, Heracles, Eros, Artemis,
Phosphoros, allegorical figures, as well as a satyr and a maenad; animal images were also
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common. The themes and ornaments are characteristic of Greek jewelry craft. Some, executed in the refined Greek style (e.g., Topalchane: Dimitrova 2008), were imported, while
others were locally made; such rings were equally characteristic of the colonies (Mladenova
1963, 300) and the inland centers (Ognenova-Marinova 1984, 164–165), and illustrate the
spread of Greek culture among the local population (Tonkova forthcoming a).
During the early Hellenistic period, Thracian-type fibulae became extremely popular. They
are both an accessory to clothing and an ornament, and secured the attachment of chains
with pendants. They were made chiefly in bronze, but often also in silver; numerous variations appeared throughout Thrace, even in some Greek colonies like Apollonia (Domaradski
2000; Vasileva 2012, 5–22). At the same time, La Tène types of bilateral spiral fibulae began
to be imported and made in local workshops (Domaradzki 1980; Domaradski 1984;
Anastassov 2006; Vasileva 2012, 5–33). Hinged fibulae also became more popular (Vasic
1999, 114–115, type Vb, c; Vasileva 2012, 35); six fibulae of this type served to attach the
ceremonial ornament from Bukjovtsi hoard (Figure 15.2) (Dimitrova 1966). They were less
common as burial finds. Gold buttons and ornamented gold plates were sporadically found.
15.6
The Middle and Late Hellenistic
Period, ca. 250–1
The development of the jewelry fashion in the Greek colonies and inland Thrace diverged
after the middle of the third century.
The west Pontic coast: Assemblages and
general characteristics
The jewelry fashion of the colonies follows broader trends in Greek jewelry at this time, with
the polychrome style becoming prevalent during the middle Hellenistic period and dominant
during the late Hellenistic period. This development can be seen in the fine gold ornaments
from the cemeteries of Odessos, Mesambria, and Apollonia, ca. 250–150 (Dimitrova 1989;
Pfrommer 1990, FK 95–98; Tonkova 1997b; Tonkova 2002; Oppermann 2004, 202–205).
Exceptionally evocative jewelry has been recovered from rich tumulus burials from Sinemorets
and Anchialo on the Black Sea coast (Agre 2009; Balabanov 1976).
Inlay was more common in the middle Hellenistic period; for example, inlayed cabochons
or stringed multicolored beads of carnelian, amethyst, garnet, or even colored glass became
typical of the jewelry fashion of Mesambria and Apollonia. In the following centuries the style
finds its full expression and leads to the domination of colored elements over the gold base
or frame. First-century earrings with pendants of colorful stones from Anchialo are
characteristic of this new style (Tonkova 2002; Tonkova forthcoming b).
Despite sharing some features, the repertoire of each town was distinct. Among these, the
jewelry fashion of Mesambria ca. 250–150 is most impressive. A strikingly rich mid-thirdcentury burial complex discovered in 2009 is illustrative: numerous gold pieces with incrustation and enamel are featured, including fine gold diadems with detailed enamel ornament,
gem rings with representations of Aphrodite and Athena, and a chain band with Heracles
knot (Kiyashkina, Bozkova, and Marvakov 2012, nos. 63–73). These finds are analogous to
jewelry complexes discovered in rich burials of the Macedonian elite and suggest that these
Mesambrians possessed comparable wealth and status. Most models recur and define the
specific jewelry style of this Greek colony, such as, for example: earrings and chains with
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223
lion-griffin’s head; earrings with a maenad head or with a centaur’s forepart; rings with an
elaborated shield and cabochon; original spiral rings; and gold foil replicas of “solid” ornaments (Frel 1963; Venedikov and Gerasimov 1973, nos. 188, 190, 195, 201, 202, 221;
Pfrommer 1990, 245, FK 95–98; Tonkova 1997b, 88–92; Tonkova 2002; Oppermann 2004,
202–205). According to my recent observations, Mesambria was not only an importer of
products of renowned workshops, but also one of the leading jewelry centers of its time.
Comparison with the jewelry style from Odessos reveals that the latter was more conservative
and avoided the use of polychromy (Tonkova 1997b, 87).
The affluence, artistic taste, and preferences of Thracian elites in the coastal area rival those
of the richest Greek colonists. For example, a grave found recently in a tumulus in Sinemorets,
dated 250–200, included gold jewelry with polychromous decoration that featured incrusted
elements and filigree in a fine Greek style. The models are Greek and include fittings from a
diadem with incrusted gold elements, earrings with a figurine of Nike on a chariot, and a
necklace of bull’s-head beads (Agre 2009). The magnificent gold adornments of a “Thracian
noblewoman” from Anchialo provide a further illustration of the second- to first-century
jewelry fashion along the coast (Balabanov 1976; Tonkova 1997b, 92–93; Tonkova forthcoming b).
The west Pontic coast: Categories of jewelry
The diadems from Mesembria and Sinemorets are made of separate gold elements with polychromous decoration: each is unique. The Mesambria diadem consists of oval, round, and
rectangular gold plates, decorated with inlayed cabochons and fine filigree enamel, combined
with other miniature details like rosettes and diamonds with blue and green enamel
(Kiyashkina et al. 2012, nos. 68–70). The Sinemorets diadem features a central rectangular
plate with floral ornaments shaped by filigree wire and other round gold elements with
rosettes and inlayed cabochons. The diadem was commissioned for the wife of a prominent
Thracian aristocrat, as suggested by the inscription in Greek traced with filigree wire on the
central plate: according to the reading, “[the goldsmith] Demetrios made it for [a Thracian
woman named] Kortozous” (Agre 2009).
The animal-head hoop earrings show a clearly discernible transformation. Lion’s-head earrings remained in circulation, but were now reinterpreted in novel local variations, and many
other motifs also appeared; for example, a local variant with tall filigree cones appears in
Odessos in the second half of the third and the beginning of the second century. New original
types also appear; these include: hoop earrings with a head of a maenad, or a lion-griffin with
the forepart of a centaur, or full figures of a sphynx, or a Nike in a chariot; and earrings with
applied cabochon cells and glass pendants on a hinge (Tonkova 1997b, 87–93).
Most necklaces dated to 250–100 were based on older models, but employed new, diverse
elements and decorative techniques. Use of multicolored ornament, not uncommon in the
mid-third century, became prevalent during the second century. Bead necklaces remained
popular ca. 250–200 with fine examples from Mesambria and Anchialo. Band and chain
necklaces were popular as well during the third and second century and developed in novel
ways. Odessos, for example, has produced gold necklaces, which may have been elements of
a breast ornament, consisting of two braided bands with a central medallion of an Eros head
and Aphrodite and Artemis busts in high relief; while the high relief busts were characteristic
of the late third and early second century, the Odessos model has no exact parallel.
Several types of ring were prominent in the late third to early second century: the bezel of
one features a cabochon, while the other displays a bust of Aphrodite with Erotes. The gold
gem rings with depictions of Athena and Aphrodite recently discovered in Mesambria are at
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present exceptional (Kiyashkina et al. 2012, nos. 72–73). The style of the representations and
the precision of the craftsmanship suggest manufacture in prominent Greek workshops; exact
parallels are known from the famous tomb of the Erotes from Eretria. Snake rings, such as the
remarkable gold ring with a Ketos head with stone incrustations, are distinctive of Mesambria
(Tonkova 1997b, 88; Marazov 1998, 126, 127).
Also peculiar to Mesambrian ateliers were brooches of decorated foil, pinned to the dress
by fibulae. These portray a Medusa head and a winged bolt, and feature filigree thread ornaments and incrusted cabochons. One gold brooch is decorated with figural motifs rendered
in repoussé, while others are cast in silver and bronze. Although the motifs used are common
to Greek art, the Mesambrian adornments find no exact parallels outside of the town and can
be considered a product of the local jewelry school (Tonkova 1997b, 89).
Inland Thrace
The jewelry fashion of inland Thrace reflects the region’s cultural difference from the Black
Sea coast. After the mid-third century, when the influence from La Tène culture predominated over Greek aesthetics, gold ornaments became exceptional. Goldsmith workshops
continued to operate in the old Getic and Odrysian centers, where original local models were
created. Local variations of animal-head earrings, like lion’s-head hoop earrings with tall filigree cones, are known from Odessos, Madara, and Dalgopol in northeastern Thrace and may
reflect Celtic influence (Dimitrova 1989, 9–11; Tonkova 2006, 267–269).
Goldsmith workshops functioned also in the Seuthopolis area; among its products are a fine
pair of gold fibulae in middle La Tène patterns dated to the late third century found in the
Seuthopolis necropolis (Еmilov 2010, 76, fig. 3). A Seuthopolis workshop may also have produced the unique gold fibula with light green and dark blue enamel found in Sashova tumulus
near Shipka, dated to the early second century (Marazov 1998, 102; Tonkova 2002, 107), which
is the only example of polychromous decoration known from inland Thrace at this time; it combines the shape of a middle La Tène-type fibula with typically Greek decorative techniques.
A remarkable find of silver appliqués for horse trappings, from Ravnogor in the central
Rhodope Mountains, features busts of Athena, Artemis, winged Dionysus, and Aphrodite
(Marazov 1998, 132–135); the find indicates close interactions with Hellenistic jewelry
traditions of the early second century. Their style is comparable in some details to the famous
gold ornaments for a sophisticated hair-dress from the so-called Carpenisi hoard in Thessaly,
believed to be the product of Macedonian workshops; items like the Ravnogor appliqués may
have been produced by such a workshop for Thracian elites.
After the mid-third century, gold jewelry and Greek-style ornaments of the Ravnogor type
became exceptional. Jewelry fashion was shaped rather by the development of traditional
forms, mostly under La Tène influence, and informed by the increasing number of La Tène
imports, primarily fibulae. The Thracian-type fibula was replaced by fibulae in the La Tène
pattern, typical of La Tène C and D. New types of torques and bracelets appeared. As a rule,
the adornments of this period were in silver and bronze, while fibulae were worked in iron
(Domaradski 1984, 138–142).
During the late Hellenistic period, jewelry fashion was substantially transformed. Silver
items, discovered as part of hoards or as single accidental finds, spread during the mid-second
to the first century, mostly in northern Thrace (e.g., Marazov 1998, 234–237; Tonkova
2011a). There is an entirely new repertoire of forms, including, for example: snake-head
torques; collier chains with cylindrical ends; open, massive bracelets; closed bracelets and
hoops with overlapping ends; large spirals with bunched snake heads for terminals; and fibulae
with diamond shaped bow, some of which are typical of the so-called Dacian hoards of silver
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225
jewelry objects (Horedt 1973; Rustoiu 1996). Most, however, have specific characteristics
that distinguish them from finds north of the Danube. The workshops operating south of the
Danube constitute a discrete group, awaiting examination, yet their autonomous style is
obvious; they should be regarded as actively contributing to the formation of the La Tène
repertoire of forms and its extension into much of Europe.
One further trait must be noted for the late Hellenistic period in Thrace. Imported Roman
jewels, of the Graeco-Roman and Italo-Roman jewelry craft style begin to appear during the
first century, including objects with polychromatic elements dominating over gold. After a
gap of four centuries, gem jewelry reappeared in inland Thrace – products of late Hellenistic
and early Republican glyptics.
Translated by V. Bineva
NOTES
1 All ancient dates BCE, unless otherwise noted.
2 Many factors hinder determining the sex of buried individuals. Most often, the preserved evidence is
simply not probative and earlier excavations were not accompanied by osteological analysis. Thus,
associated finds, especially the presence or absence of weapons, have traditionally been used to identify
male or female burials.
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GUIDE TO FURTHER READING
Agre, Daniela, and Deyan Dichev. 2006. “Klasifikatsiia na fibulite ot dolmenite v Strandzha.” In IV
International Symposium “Settlements in Thrace,” edited by I. Iliev, 9–30. Yambol: Ya. Offers a
region-specific analysis of fibulae from the Strandzha mountains of Thrace.
Dimitrova-Milcheva, Alexandra. 1980. Antichni gemi i kamei. Sofia: Septemvri. Presents the gems and
cameos in the collections of the National Archaeological Museum, Sofia.
Gencheva, Evgeniya. 2004. Rimskite fibuli ot Bulgaria ot kraya na I v.pr. n.e. do kraya na VI v. na n.e.
Veliko Tarnovo: Faber. Presents fibulae from Roman Thrace.
Gergova, Diana. 1980. “Genesis and Development of the Metal Ornaments in the Thracian Lands during the Early Iron Age (11th–6th c. B.C.).” Studia Praehistorica, 3: 97–112. Synthesizing discussion
of jewelry in Early Iron Age Thrace.
Popov, Hristo. 2006. “Eine ältereisenzeitliche Fibelgruppe aus Koprivlen (Südwestbulgarien).
Problemkreis und Interpretationsversuche.” Archaeologia Bulgarica, 10: 9–36. Offers a site-specific
analysis of fibulae from Koprivlen.
Ruseva-Slokoska, Liudmila. 1991. Roman Jewellery. A Collection of the National Archaeological
Museum, Sofia. London: Cromwell Editions. Includes discussion of late Hellenistic jewelry in Thrace.
Tonkova, Milena. 1997. “Traditions and Aegean Influences on the Jewellery of Thracia in Early
Hellenistic Times.” Archaeologia Bulgarica, 1: 18–31. Analyzes the problem of the interpenetration
of Greek and local Thracian jewelry forms.
Tonkova, Milena. 1997. “Hellenistic Jewellery from the Colonies on the West Black Sea Coast.”
Archaeology in Bulgaria, 1: 83–102. Analyzes the splendid fashion of adornment in the colonies on
the west Pontic coast.
Tonkova, Milena. 2000–2001. “Classical Jewellery in Thrace: Origins and Development, Archaeological
Contexts.” Talanta (Amsterdam), 31–32: 277–288. Defines the main characteristics of jewelry fashion
in Thrace in the Classical period.
Tonkova, Мilena. 2006. “Influences réciproques dans l’orfèvrerie des Thraces et des Celtes au IVe–IIIe
siècles av. J.-C.” In Thracians and Celts. Proceedings of the International Colloquium from Bistrita,
edited by Valeriu Sîrbu and Dan L. Vaida, 265–278. Cluj-Napoca: Editura Mega. Discusses symbiosis
between Thracian and Celtic jewelry.