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    Fodor's South Florida: with Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and the Keys
    Fodor's South Florida: with Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and the Keys
    Fodor's South Florida: with Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and the Keys
    Ebook581 pages7 hours

    Fodor's South Florida: with Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and the Keys

    By Fodor’s Travel Guides

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    About this ebook

    COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE:

    • Fodor's has the only guide dedicated to all of South Florida, with in-depth coverage of Miami, the Keys, and Fort Lauderdale all in one place.
    • Editor's Choice: An article on “Day Trips From Miami” will inspire your next road trip.


    TOURISM TRENDS:

    • Domestic tourism to Florida has surpassed pre-pandemic levels, up 55.7% in 2021 compared to 2020 (and up 0.2% compared to 2019), with 117.4 million domestic visits to Florida. Domestic visitation represented 96.2% of the total visitation to the state in 2021. (Visit Florida Research).
    • This surge in visitation has been met by an increase in hotels across the region, including The Balfour South Beach, Esme South Beach, and AC Hotel Miami Brickell, and AC Fort Lauderdale.
    • The first ever Formula 1 Grand Prix race came to Miami in 2022. Other internationally acclaimed events like Art Basel, Sobe Food and Wine Festival, Ultra, and the International Boat Show have resumed.

    FULLY REDESIGNED!

    • New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
    • New back cover is fully-redesigned
    • “Best of” Lists will visually engage the reader and provide an overview of the entire destination (best things to eat, see, do, drink, as well as what to read and watch before going)
    • Visually focused with more color and images including more full and half-page images throughout and color-coded category icons
    • Other useful features including Great Itineraries, a Calendar of Events, and What to Know Before You Go
    • “Travel Smart” (logistical planning tips section) now at the front of the book and redesigned to be more infographic in feel
    • Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational

    CURATED AND RELEVANT:

    • Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.
    • Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.

    CONCISE:

    • Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.

    Please see additional key selling points in the book main description

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherFodor's Travel
    Release dateMay 16, 2023
    ISBN9781640975989
    Fodor's South Florida: with Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and the Keys
    Author

    Fodor’s Travel Guides

    For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

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      Book preview

      Fodor's South Florida - Fodor’s Travel Guides

      Chapter 1: EXPERIENCE SOUTH

      15 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

      South Florida offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

      1 Beaches

      Florida’s many stretches of sand are just as varied as the state itself. Watch the sun set over Fort Lauderdale Beach, barhop through South Beach, or snorkel in Key Largo. If a quiet, rugged coastline appeals, head to Blowing Rocks Preserve outside Jupiter. (Ch. 3, 5, 6, 7)

      2 Art Deco Architecture

      Miami has the largest collection of art deco buildings in the world, with 800-plus pastel beauties. Learn more at the Art Deco Museum on Ocean Drive. (Ch. 3)

      3 Snorkeling in Key Largo

      Swim past a shipwreck and the nation’s most vibrant patches of coral reef at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park in Key Largo. (Ch. 5)

      4 The Wynwood Walls

      Graffiti artists around the globe create murals for this hip outdoor gallery, with over 80,000 square feet of colorful walls to explore. (Ch. 3)

      5 Partying in Miami

      Alternate between dancing and people-watching at the late-night lounges that helped earn South Beach its party-heavy rep. (Ch. 3)

      6 Everglades National Park

      To really experience this national park, bike nature trails or cruise the backwaters and keep your eyes peeled for gators. (Ch. 4)

      7 Shopping

      Miami’s Design District, Fort Lauderdale’s Las Olas Boulevard, and Palm Beach’s Worth Avenue constitute a shopper’s paradise. (Ch. 3, 6, 7)

      8 Cuban Culture

      Little Havana’s main drag, Calle Ocho, is where to find Miami’s best Cuban restaurants and bars. Don’t leave without salsa dancing at Ball & Chain or trying guava ice cream at Azucar. (Ch. 3)

      9 Fresh Seafood

      It’s practically required on your visit to Florida to eat stone crabs plus a fresh catch of the day baked, broiled, or blackened with Cajun spice. (Ch. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7)

      10 Hemingway’s Key West

      The legendary American author’s Key West home looks nearly the same as it did in the ‘30s—six-toed cats (descendants of his pet, Snow White) and all. (Ch. 5)

      11 Sports

      Cheering for the team is a huge part of Florida culture. Make like a local and catch the Miami Dolphins or Miami Heat in action. (Ch. 3)

      12 Palm Beach

      In this glam town, you can stay at luxe resorts like The Breakers, shop at chic boutiques, play golf at PGA National Resort, and gawk at palatial mansions. (Ch. 7)

      13 Swanky Pools

      Save a day to relax and people-watch at one of South Florida’s legendary and luxurious hotel poolscapes, such as at 1 Hotel South Beach. (Ch. 3)

      14 Sunset Sails

      Whether you set sail from Fort Lauderdale, board a yacht in Miami, or take a boat tour of Key West, this is a place best viewed from the water. (Ch. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7)

      15 Tropical Gardens

      Need a break from the beach? Enjoy the shade and lush greenery of gardens such as Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden in Coral Gables or Morikami in Delray Beach. (Ch. 3, 7)

      WHAT’S WHERE

      dingbat Miami and Miami Beach. Greater Miami is hot—and we’re not just talking about the weather. Art deco buildings and balmy beaches set the scene. Vacations here are as much about lifestyle as locale, so prepare for power-shopping, barhopping, and decadent dining in between sunbathing and people-watching.

      dingbat The Everglades. Covering more than 1.5 million acres, the fabled River of Grass is the state’s greatest natural treasure. Biscayne National Park (95% of which is underwater) runs a close second and is the largest marine park in the United States. Surrounding farm towns like Homestead are the place to sample South Florida’s delicious tropical fruits and even pick your own produce.

      dingbat The Florida Keys. This slender necklace of landfalls from Key Largo to Key West, strung together by a 113-mile highway, marks the southern edge of the continental United States. It’s nirvana for anglers, divers, literature lovers, and Jimmy Buffett wannabes.

      dingbat Fort Lauderdale and Broward County. The former Spring Break Capital is all grown up. Nowadays, sparkling blue beaches are complemented by luxe lodgings, upscale entertainment options, and a decidedly more family-friendly beach atmosphere than in nearby Miami.

      dingbat Palm Beach and the Treasure Coast. This area scores points for its diverse offerings. Palm Beach and its surroundings are famous for their golden sand and glitzy mansions, whereas the Treasure Coast has unspoiled natural delights in areas like Jupiter and Vero Beach.

      What to Eat and Drink in South Florida

      STONE CRAB

      Stone crab season runs from October through May, when you’ll find claws served at seafood spots throughout South Florida (one of the best is Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami). Claws are presented in similar style to peel-and-eat shrimp, with crackers to help break through to the meaty flesh.

      KEY LIME PIE

      Florida’s official state pie was first baked in the 1860s in Key West, where local key limes add to the dessert’s characteristic tangy taste. The original recipe has three main ingredients—key lime, egg yolks, and sweetened condensed milk.

      PASTELITOS

      Step into any Cuban bakery in Miami and you’ll spot these turnover-like pastries proudly displayed (and quickly devoured). The puff pastry sweets are as critical to breakfast here as croissants are in Paris, with flavors ranging from savory ham to sweet guava and cream cheese. Order one of the flaky confections at family-run shops like La Rosa Bakery in Miami.

      MOJITO

      Warm weather begs for cold, summertime cocktails, so it’s no surprise the classic Cuban mojito is one of Miami’s unofficial drinks. The recipe is easy: a blend of white rum, fresh mint sprigs, sugar, and a splash of club soda. Head to Ball & Chain in Miami’s Little Havana for something traditional or to Cafe La Trova in Little Havana for an award-winning take.

      CROQUETAS

      Considered Miami’s official snack, meat- and cheese-stuffed Cuban croquetas are sold everywhere from fine-dining restaurants to drive-through fast-food joints and even gas stations. Order the breaded, fried food rolls in classic jamón (ham) or a variation like goat cheese and guava jam.

      CUBAN SANDWICH

      It’s said the Cubano was invented in 1905 in Tampa’s Ybor City, but the classic sandwich is also widespread (and well loved) in South Florida. The historic hoagies are made with two flaky pieces of Cuban bread topped with ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, yellow mustard, and pickles.

      ROCK LOBSTER

      Rock lobster (or spiny lobster) is Florida’s answer to the more traditional type you’d find up in Maine. The best way to eat the tender tail meat is grilled and drizzled with rich garlic butter. Head to The Stoned Crab in Key West and order the Half Baked, served in Florida shrimp sauce.

      CONCH FRITTERS

      Deep-fried conch fritters may have started farther south in the Bahamas, but this popular appetizer dish (typically served alongside tartar sauce) has become a favorite in Florida, especially in the Conch Republic of Key West.

      CAFECITO

      Cuban coffee, or cafecito, is what locals in Miami drink as an afternoon pick-me-up. The strong, espresso-based drink packs a powerful punch thanks to the heavy-handed sugar whipped in. You’ll find dedicated cafecito windows, or ventanillas, around town, especially in Little Havana.

      GATOR TAIL

      Just as frog legs have become synonymous with France, alligator has become a Florida specialty. Bite-size, deep-fried pieces are served up as nugget-style snacks in the Everglades at most restaurants. Tastes like chicken.

      Best Beaches in South Florida

      SOUTH BEACH

      The legend of beautiful people is very much a reality on the sands parallel to deco-drenched Ocean Drive and upscale Collins Avenue, lined with luxe boutiques. Pose for pics at the famous, brightly colored lifeguard stands or take a tour of the city’s most historic buildings. (Ch. 3)

      FORT LAUDERDALE BEACH

      The Spring Break hot spot plays host to a reinvented, more upscale beachfront; however, several of the storied (and divey) beach bars remain. Stroll and shop along Las Olas or people-watch along the beachfront promenade. (Ch. 6)

      JOHN PENNEKAMP CORAL REEF STATE PARK

      Florida’s best bet for diving and snorkeling, this state park adjacent to the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary encompasses 78 square miles of ecological treasures. The beaches here do attract families, but the real draw is the underwater world. (Ch. 5)

      HAULOVER PARK

      Long known for its clothing-optional stretch of sand (between lifeguard stands 12 and 16), the beach park, which sits north of Miami Beach, also offers plenty of family-friendly attractions. Food trucks pull up to the Bill Bird Marina on Tuesday night, and the park often hosts kite-making workshops. (Ch. 3)

      BLOWING ROCKS PRESERVE

      The beauty in Hobe Sound is in the backdrop; the rocky coastline looks like it’s been transplanted from a Greek island, yet this wild strip of mangrove wetlands, turtle nesting beaches, and practically perfect dunes lies less than an hour’s drive from Palm Beach. (Ch. 7)

      DELRAY MUNICIPAL BEACH

      This super-popular stretch of sand dotted with trademark royal-blue umbrellas intersects trendy Atlantic Avenue in the alluring Village by the Sea; delicious nosh and cute boutiques are a short stroll from the waves. (Ch. 7)

      DRY TORTUGAS NATIONAL PARK

      Forget lazily reading a book on these shores in the Florida Keys. Come here if you’re looking for a beach where you can dive in—literally. Set among coral reefs, this cluster of seven islands (accessible only by boat or seaplane) offers outstanding snorkeling and diving. (Ch. 5)

      BAHIA HONDA STATE PARK

      Though the Florida Keys aren’t renowned for beautiful sand beaches (most are man-made), this is an exception. The 524-acre park has three superb, white-sand beaches, including the mile-long, Atlantic-facing Sandspur Beach. (Ch. 5)

      HOLLYWOOD BEACH

      Between Miami and Fort Lauderdale, this laid-back, family-friendly stretch of sand is the star of Broward County, where you can stroll along the 2½-mile Broadwalk promenade and enjoy beachfront restaurants and bars. (Ch. 6)

      BILL BAGGS CAPE FLORIDA STATE PARK

      If you’re looking to avoid the throngs of tourists sunbathing on South Beach, head to this park in Key Biscayne. Stroll along the shore to the beach’s landmark lighthouse—the oldest standing building in the county. (Ch. 3)

      MID-BEACH

      This stretch of coastline (which starts at 24th and Collins) sits just a few blocks north of South Beach’s nonstop nightlife. Miami Modern buildings sprout across the historic neighborhood, where a few famous facades, like Fontainebleau, have received billion-dollar revamps. Argentinean hotelier Alan Faena has breathed new life into the area with his flagship hotel, Faena. (Ch. 3)

      PALM BEACH

      The shores of this tiny beach town are favored by locals and visitors alike. With Worth Avenue’s clock tower nearby, the beach is central to the town’s best sights and a beautiful spot to watch the sun set. (Ch. 7)

      An Art Lover’s Guide to Miami

      ART BASEL

      Miami Beach’s art (and social) calendars revolve around this famous art fair. Each December, more than 250 galleries from around the world showcase their work, and the city comes alive with art installations and exclusive parties.

      VIZCAYA MUSEUM & GARDENS

      This European-style villa is an urban oasis where formal gardens meet the edge of Biscayne Bay. Built about 100 years ago, it has survived Miami’s hurricanes, economic troubles, and redevelopment. Check out the decorative art spanning the Renaissance to rococo periods.

      ART DECO AND MIMO ARCHITECTURE

      In Miami, even the buildings are art. The art deco structures on Ocean Drive and Collins Avenue, with their pastels and geometric shapes, put South Beach on the map in the ’30s and ’40s. In North Beach, you’ll see another well-known style–Miami Modern (MiMo), featuring futuristic, asymmetrical shapes.

      THE BASS MUSEUM OF ART

      Housed in an art deco gem from the ’30s, the museum spotlights contemporary art and its relationship to culture, design, fashion, and architecture. See whimsical contemporary pieces alongside historical works in the permanent collection.

      PÉREZ ART MUSEUM MIAMI

      Overlooking Biscayne Bay, PAMM’s indoor-outdoor venue with hanging gardens, trusses, and steel frames, is a stunning home to international art of the 20th and 21st centuries. The museum is celebrated for sparking much of the city’s electric arts environment.

      WYNWOOD ARTS DISTRICT

      Once an unremarkable group of warehouses, this now trendy area is an international destination for edgy graffiti and galleries. Check out the Wynwood Walls, an outdoor museum of street art. Your visit will be unique: murals can disappear as quickly as they appear.

      MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

      MOCA, an intimate museum in North Miami, is home to provocative contemporary art. Its stark gallery spaces are ideal for exhibitions that require time and space to fully understand. Stop by for Jazz at MOCA on the last Friday night of each month.

      THE PATRICIA & PHILLIP FROST ART MUSEUM

      Florida International University’s free art museum boasts thousands of objects ranging from pre-Columbian-era artifacts and American printmaking from the ‘70s to contemporary works.

      LITTLE HAITI AND LITTLE RIVER GALLERIES

      Several top-notch galleries—Emerson Dorsch, Nina Johnson, Mindy Solomon Gallery, Pan American Art Projects—have moved from Wynwood to the neighborhoods of Little Haiti and Little River, so it’s no wonder the up-and-coming areas are being referred to as the new Wynwood.

      DESIGN DISTRICT

      The Design District is a haven for high-end fashion houses and boutiques. If you can make it past Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Saint Laurent, you’ll find several notable galleries. The Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami (ICA) is the latest addition to the city’s museums; many pieces in its permanent collection and its major funders were once part of MOCA.

      South Florida Today

      NEW IN THE SPOTLIGHT

      The Michelin Guide made its way to three major Florida cities in 2022: Miami, Orlando, and Tampa. With its first edition, 117 restaurants were crowned with its prestigious stars. The arrival of the guide sets a tone within the hospitality industry that Florida is indeed home to top-notch dining experiences.

      IMPROVED ACCESS

      It’s easier than ever to reach Florida by plane thanks to new flight routes and expanded airports. Fort Lauderdale–Hollywood International Airport (FLL) has completed a major expansion and renovation, with a new larger runway, which permits jumbo-size aircraft.

      To improve access between cities, the first privately funded U.S. high-speed railway, Brightline, has opened. By the end of 2023, it will connect Miami to Orlando in three hours at speeds of up to 125 mph. Phase One, which opened in 2018, provides state-of-the-art express train service connecting Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and West Palm Beach in style and comfort. Phase Two opened in late 2022 adding Aventura and Boca Raton stops. Adding stations in Orlando and Tampa will be the third and final stage, with stops at Orlando Convention Center, near Disney World, and Downtown Tampa.

      Meanwhile, getting around Florida’s major destinations without a car rental has also become easier. Lyft and Uber are now available in all of Florida’s major cities from Miami down to Key West. These services have made it possible to hop between nearby cities (overnight in Fort Lauderdale but dinner in Miami) for an often reasonable price.

      MORE LUXURY

      From Miami’s burgeoning Mid-Beach and expanding Sunny Isles Beach to the coastlines of the Keys, South Florida is embracing a luxury mantra and has plenty of new five-star properties to prove it.

      Cranes and bulldozers are again dominating Miami to make way for super-high-end residential and hotel developments. Waldorf Astoria, Bentley, Aria Reserve, Aman Miami Beach, and NoMad are just a few big names to break ground recently.

      Miami’s Design District continues to expand with high-design retail spaces for the big brands that are moving into the neighborhood frequently.

      In the northern reaches of Miami Beach, Sunny Isles Beach has witnessed a high-rise frenzy, the highlights of which are The Mansions at Acqualina (46 stories!) and The Estates at Acqualina, part of the Acqualina Resort & Residences on the Beach.

      Never one to forgo the limelight, South Beach has also made waves with the half-billion-dollar collaboration between hotel and real estate titans Barry Sternlicht and Richard LeFrak: the 1 Hotel & Homes South Beach—a seductive, two-block-long, beachfront enclave, inclusive of 156 oceanfront residences—in the beach’s Art Deco District.

      Down in the Florida Keys, new projects have been cropping up just about everywhere. In 2019 Key Largo welcomed its first all-inclusive resort, Bungalows Key Largo, a luxury waterfront oasis. In the same year, the snazzy Isla Bella Beach Resort debuted in Marathon. In 2020 Kimpton Key West made a splash in Old Town as a collection of five reimagined boutique properties under a single brand.

      Day Trips From Miami

      THE EVERGLADES

      40 miles west of Miami. There are five main access points into Everglades National Park, the closest of which is Shark Valley off Tamiami Trail. Here, you can hike trails, bike a 15-mile loop, and immerse yourself in raw wilderness, spotting alligators and herons. For the thrill of an airboat ride, you should go beyond the park’s official boundaries. (Ch. 4)

      HOMESTEAD

      40 miles southwest of Miami. Visit South Florida’s agricultural heartland to enter a wonderful world of exotic fruits and experience rural Florida. Explore the 37-acre Fruit & Spice Park, home to more than 500 varieties of fruit, nuts, and spices, including 160 varieties of mango. Then, sip your way through flights of wine made from native fruits such as mango and guava at Schnebly Redland’s Winery. (Ch. 4)

      BISCAYNE NATIONAL PARK

      40 miles southwest of Miami. The nation’s largest marine park houses diverse ecosystems both above and under the water, underscored by living coral reefs and mazes of mangroves. Book a guided tour through Biscayne National Park Institute to snorkel among the park’s reefs and shipwreck or to kayak your way through mangroves. (Ch. 4)

      FORT LAUDERDALE

      40 miles north of Miami. The former Spring Break capital now boasts a polished shoreline with luxury hotels and great restaurants. Come here for a memorable meal at one of the many waterfront eateries and for a delightful respite from the cacophony of Miami’s beaches. Hop on the public Water Taxi and take a leisurely boat ride to understand the city’s well-deserved moniker, Venice of America. (Ch. 6)

      PALM BEACH

      40 miles north of Miami. Palm Beach is to the East Coast what Beverly Hills is to the West Coast—a place to gawk at larger-than-life mansions, spot plastic surgery, and browse pricey boutiques. Start with some shopping on Worth Avenue, then admire the grounds of The Breakers resort or tour the Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, which rivals the grandeur of a European palace. (Ch. 7)

      KEY LARGO

      56 miles south of Miami. Drive down to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park for the best diving and snorkeling in Florida. You can either DIY from the shore or take an organized tour through the park and discover a microcosm of Pennecamp’s 78 nautical square miles of coral reefs and sea-grass beds. Stop for lunch at Alabama Jack’s, a no-frills, oh-so-Keys waterfront restaurant, home to some epic conch fritters. (Ch. 5)

      ISLAMORADA

      85 miles south of Miami. In the Middle Keys, this developed island is the self-proclaimed Sportfishing Capital of the World, a launching pad to untouched, clear, warm waters teeming with trophy-worthy fish from sailfish to mahimahi to tarpon. More than 150 backcountry guides and 400 offshore captains are at your service. (Ch. 7)

      KEY WEST

      150 miles south of Miami. Famous for its dive bars, pedestrian-friendly streets, Hemingway history, and all-welcoming community, the Conch Republic is the perfect place to ditch Google Maps and get lost in coastal small-town magic. Prepare for stunning views beginning at Mile Marker 113, when the Florida Keys Scenic Highway begins and then crosses 42 bridges. (Ch. 7)

      What to Read and Watch

      FLORIDA BY LAUREN GROFF

      This collection of short stories depicts Florida with equal doses fascination and horror, dream world and harsh reality. The state is a recurring character, and the diverse settings, cast of characters, and moods give a full and complex impression of the state.

      SWAMPLANDIA! BY KAREN RUSSELL

      The story of a young girl growing up in the Florida Everglades at her family’s bizarre gator-wrestling entertainment park, Swamplandia! made Russell a finalist for a 2012 Pulitzer Prize (the year no prize was awarded). It has the right amount of fantasy to illustrate the swampy, untamed Everglades.

      THEIR EYES WERE WATCHING GOD BY ZORA NEALE HURSTON

      Hurston’s most-read novel journeys through Reconstruction-era rural Florida. Through the lens of African American female narrator Janie Crawford, you’ll see vivid depictions of small towns, migrant worker communities, and historical events.

      THE ORCHID THIEF: A TRUE STORY OF BEAUTY AND OBSESSION BY SUSAN ORLEANS

      Set largely in the Florida Everglades, this bestselling book follows an orchid thief, a man obsessed with hunting down rare flowers and cloning them.

      TO HAVE AND HAVE NOT BY ERNEST HEMINGWAY

      A desperate Key West fishing captain is forced into the illegal smuggling business during the Great Depression in Hemingway’s book. It touches on the economic disparity in the Keys during that decade and the area’s close but complicated relationship with Cuba.

      BAD BOYS (FRANCHISE)

      Starring Will Smith and Martin Lawrence, Bad Boys (1995), Bad Boys II (2003), and Bad Boys for Life (2020) follow two ride-or-die Miami detectives as they protect the streets of the Magic City.

      BLOODLINE

      Taking place on Islamorada in the Florida Keys, this Netflix show begins when a bad-seed brother returns home to stir up trouble. A small family inn serves as the epicenter for so much drama it could be a soap opera—full of family secrets, drug trafficking, and speedboat chases.

      MIAMI VICE

      A team of undercover detectives takes on the shady drug world in South Florida in the 1980s. The television show’s loud fashion and music, neon lights, palm trees, alligators, and yachts could get anyone into a South Beach mood.

      MOONLIGHT

      A film in three chapters, Moonlight explores violence, identity, and sexuality for two young black males growing up in the Miami area. For a quiet film, it was met with loud praise—the Oscar for Best Picture. It was the first movie with an all-black cast (and first LGBTQ-theme movie) to win.

      THE BIRDCAGE

      The 1996 American remake of La Cage aux Folles stars Robin Williams, Gene Hackman, and Nathan Lane in a gay-slanted tale of meet the parents, set in the heart of South Beach.

      THE FLORIDA PROJECT

      An indie film that’s both heartbreaking and joyous, The Florida Project follows a young, struggling mother and her hellion of a daughter through their days living in a pay-per-week motel in the shadow of Walt Disney World.

      Chapter 2: TRAVEL SMART

      Know Before You Go

      When is the best time to visit? How do you plan around hurricane season? Do you really need a car to get around? You may have a few questions before you head out on vacation to the Sunshine State. We’ve got answers and a few tips to help you make the most of your trip.

      FLORIDA COULD BE SEVERAL STATES.

      If you drove from the western stretch of the Panhandle to the state’s southern tip in Key West, you’d have traveled more than 800 miles. It’s no wonder the state varies so widely in climate, geography, and demography. This massive peninsula’s many distinct regions include the southeast, southwest, the Keys, central, northeast, and the northwest (aka the Panhandle)—and all have different vibes. Generally, the northern and central regions are more conservative than the coastal communities and the land more akin to southern Georgia, while the southeast is by far the most diverse and progressive and the terrain more tropical.

      HURRICANE SEASON SPANS HALF THE YEAR.

      Florida’s annual hurricane season spans from June 1 to November 30. Storms can form within a matter of days, sometimes dissipating or rapidly morphing into monsters. Big storms are more likely in August and September. If you’re in or near a storm’s projected path, fly out or drive away as soon as possible, regardless of whether you’re in an evacuation zone.

      WINTER IS THE BUSIEST AND MOST EXPENSIVE SEASON.

      Rates from December to April are high across the board since most visitors try to escape their own winters, avoid the risk of a hurricane, and plan around school breaks. Winter is also the time to visit the Everglades, as temperatures, mosquito activity, and water levels (making wildlife easier to spot) are all lower. Northern Florida, conversely, receives the greatest influx of visitors from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

      BE PREPARED FOR HUMIDITY AND SUMMER RAIN.

      Florida is rightly called the Sunshine State—areas like Tampa Bay report 361 days of sunshine a year! But it could also be dubbed the Humid State. From June through September, 90% humidity levels aren’t uncommon, nor are accompanying thunderstorms. In fact, more than half of the state’s rain falls during these months. Be prepared for sidewalk and road flooding in Miami Beach, even during mild storms.

      RENT, OR HAIL, A CAR.

      Even Florida’s urban hubs are sprawling, so a car is the preferred method of transportation. It’s also the best way to string a few towns together on a road trip. If you go this route, consider purchasing a SunPass to cover toll roads. You can also avail yourself of Uber or Lyft, which operate in all major cities and their airports as well as the suburbs.

      TRY NEW HIGH-SPEED TRAINS.

      The new express train service called Brightline transports passengers between Miami (stations are in Downtown and Aventura), Fort Lauderdale, West Palm Beach, and Boca Raton. In 2023, the service will launch at Orlando International Airport (MCO). The train is expected to reach MCO from Miami in three hours; it’ll take about two hours from West Palm Beach which is about an hour less than it would take to drive. An extension to Tampa is also in the works.

      YOU CAN GET AROUND BY WATER TAXI.

      Fort Lauderdale has long been dubbed the Venice of America because of its many waterways, but did you know you can explore most of them by Water Taxi? When people say that it is the journey not the destination that matters, this is what they mean. That said, there are lots of destinations (bars, restaurants, sights) with 15 stops on three connected routes. Get a day pass and hop on and off along the way. The trips are narrated by knowledgeable drivers who share fun and interesting information about the many mansions and mega yachts that line the waterways.

      HIT THE TRAILS.

      Florida has some 5,000 miles of land-based routes (plus many more miles for paddling!). About 1,500 miles of these connect to create a continuous trail from the north to the south of the state. It’s known as the Florida National Scenic Trail, or simply the Florida Trail, and it’s one of only 11 National Scenic Trails in the United States.

      CHECK FOR AUTOMATIC GRATUITIES.

      Before putting your payment down in South Florida, examine your itemized bill to see if a gratuity was already added. It’s often automatically included as a service fee at restaurants, bars, and spas in South Beach and some other places in Miami, and some establishments are not as up-front about this as others. Many visitors don’t know the policy and unknowingly tip twice.

      ACCOUNT FOR RESORT TAXES.

      Florida has no state personal income tax, instead heavily relying on tourism revenues. The state sales tax in Florida is 6% (with the exception of most groceries and medicine); when combined with local taxes, the total sales tax rate runs as high as 8%. Hotel taxes, often called resort taxes, vary, but include amenities like beach loungers and pool access.

      Palm Beach County’s resort tax is 6%, for a combined total of 12% with state sales tax (6%). In Greater Fort Lauderdale the resort tax is 5%, for a combined total of 11%. In Miami Beach visitors pay 7% sales tax, 3% Miami resort tax, plus 3% Miami Beach resort tax, for a total of 13%.

      TAKE THE SUN SERIOUSLY.

      Sunburn and heat exhaustion are concerns, even in winter. So hit the beach or play outdoor sports before 10 am or after 3 pm. Even on overcast days, ultraviolet rays shine through the haze, so use a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15, and have children wear a waterproof SPF of at least 30 or higher. Make sure your sunscreen is free of oxybenzone or octinoxate, two chemicals known to cause coral bleaching.

      PROTECT YOURSELF FROM MOSQUITOES.

      Mosquitoes are most active in the wet summer months but are present year-round due to the state’s climate. Even if the bugs aren’t infected by diseases like West Nile or Zika, humans and pets are still susceptible to their itchy bites. Pack a repellent or lemon eucalyptus oil to ward off the pests, and wear long sleeves, pants, and socks when spending time in nature. Also, avoid the outdoors at dawn and dusk.

      CHOOSE YOUR AIRPORT WISELY.

      Fort Lauderdale’s airport is close enough to Miami and Palm Beach (about 45 minutes driving either way) that many people choose to fly there instead of MIA or PBI, which can have higher fares. It’s worth the savings if someone is picking you up or you have your own rental car, but if you’re relying on Uber/Lyft, make sure to factor in the hefty fee it takes to reach your destination city ($50–$70).

      DON’T SKIP THE EVERGLADES.

      With South Florida’s flashy attractions and dreamy beaches it can be easy to overlook one of the nation’s most impressive national parks when planning your visit…but you shouldn’t. Everglades National Park is the 3rd largest national park behind Yellowstone and Death Valley and one of the most important ecosystems in the country. It is home to 8 distinct habitats, more than 360 different species of birds, 36 endangered and threatened species (including the Florida Panther), and it is the only place in the world where American alligators and American crocodiles coexist in the wild. An airboat ride is one of the most popular ways to experience the park.

      Getting Here and Around

      d Air

      Average flying time to South Florida’s international airports is 3 hours from New York, 4 hours from Chicago, 2¾ hours from Dallas, 4½–5½ hours from Los Angeles, and 8–8½ hours from London.

      AIRPORTS

      South Florida has three major airports listed from south to north: Miami International Airport (MIA), Fort Lauderdale–Hollywood International Airport (FLL), and Palm Beach International Airport (PBI). Subtropical, and often chaotic, Miami International Airport, known as the gateway to Latin America and the Caribbean, is a hub for American Airlines and the third-busiest airport for international travelers. The Miami International Airport Hotel is located within Concourse E and has 260 soundproof rooms.

      Fort Lauderdale–Hollywood International Airport offers more than 700 flights a day, including nonstop flights to more than 100 U.S. and international cities. South of downtown Fort Lauderdale and north of Hollywood, it’s adjacent to Port Everglades, the major cruise complex that hosts nearly 4 million passengers a year.

      Palm Beach International Airport offers flights to and from about 30 destinations from many major airlines with more than 200 flights daily. PBI has parking at assorted pricing levels, including an economy lot.

      In addition, Key West International Airport (EYW) is a single-runway facility on the southeast end of that island that serves carriers large and small. There are more than a dozen car rental options on arrival.

      dingbat TIP → Flying in and out of MIA requires more time and patience due to the sheer volume of travelers. Expect long lines at security, customs, and baggage claim.

      GROUND TRANSPORTATION

      Shuttle and public bus services operate from Fort Lauderdale, Miami, and West Palm Beach. There are also rental-car agencies, ride-sharing services, and taxis.

      Cab fares from Florida’s larger airports into town can be high. Note that in some cities, airport cab fares are a single flat rate (MIA to South Beach is $35–$40); in others, flat-rate fares vary by zone; and in others still, the fare is determined by the meter. Private car service fares are usually higher than taxi fares.

      k Car

      Three major interstates lead to Florida. Interstate 95 begins in Maine, runs south through the mid-Atlantic states, and enters Florida just north of Jacksonville. It ends just south of Miami.

      Interstate 75 begins in Michigan and runs south to Tampa. It follows the west coast south to Naples, then crosses the state through the northern section of the Everglades, and ends in Miami. The I-75 stretch between Naples and just west of Fort Lauderdale levies a toll each way per car.

      California and most southern and southwestern states are connected to Florida by Interstate 10, which moves east from Los Angeles. It enters Florida at Pensacola and runs straight across the northern part of the state, ending in Jacksonville.

      SUNPASS

      To save time and money while on the road, you may want to purchase a SunPass for your personal vehicle; many rentals come equipped with their own SunPass transponder or a process for paying through the rental car agency. SunPass provides a discount on most tolls, and it’s pretty much mandatory across the state. You also can use it to pay for parking at Palm Beach, Miami, and Fort Lauderdale airports. (SunPass now interfaces with North Carolina’s Quick Pass and Georgia’s Peach Pass.) Transponders can be purchased online. (SunPass portable is the way to go if you want to switch cars and will run you $19.99 plus tax.)

      RENTAL CARS

      In Florida, you must be 21 to rent a car and have a credit card. Rates are higher if you’re under 25. Rental rates, which are loaded with taxes, fees, and other costs, sometimes can start around $55 to $110 per day.

      ROAD CONDITIONS

      All major cities in Florida can get extremely congested during rush hours, usually 7–9 am and 3:30–6:30 pm or later on weekdays.

      dingbat TIP → Due to construction and overdevelopment, expect delays to occur at any time of day. Plan accordingly. For real-time traffic conditions statewide, download the Florida 511 (FL511) app on your smart phone.

      RULES OF THE ROAD

      Speed limits are generally 60–65 mph on state highways, 30–35 mph within city limits and residential areas, and 70 mph on interstates and Florida’s Turnpike. Supervising adults must ensure that children under age seven are positioned in federally approved child car seats.

      Florida’s DUI Law is one of the toughest in the United States. A blood-alcohol level of 0.08 or higher can have serious repercussions even for a first-time offender.

      l Cruise

      Florida is home to two of the busiest cruise ports in the United States, the Port of Miami and Fort Lauderdale’s Port Everglades, both major ports of embarkation for Caribbean itineraries. Outside Orlando, cruisers embark from Port Canaveral.

      o Ride-Sharing

      Both Uber and Lyft operate at South Florida’s airports and in major cities and suburbs. Download the apps and add payment methods before your trip.

      q Train

      Florida’s high-speed passenger train, Brightline, can help you avoid road traffic; the routes run from Miami to Fort Lauderdale to West Palm Beach—with future expansion to Orlando and Tampa. Each leg takes about 30 minutes. Brightline offers Wi-Fi, full ADA accessibility, a pet-friendly policy, and food and beverages. (w www.gobrightline.com). Amtrak’s Atlantic Coast service serves Florida from Jacksonville to Miami.

      Essentials

      r Dining

      Smoking is banned statewide in most enclosed indoor workplaces, including restaurants. Exemptions are permitted for stand-alone bars where food takes a backseat to libations.

      One caution: raw oysters in particular pose a potential danger for people with chronic illness of the liver, stomach, or blood and those with immune disorders. All Florida restaurants that serve raw oysters must post a notice in plain view warning of the risks associated with their consumption.

      FLORIBBEAN FOOD

      A true marriage of Floridian, Caribbean, and Latin cultures yields the stylized cuisine known as Floribbean. (Think freshly caught fish with tropical fruit salsa.) A trip to the Tampa area or South Florida, however, isn’t quite complete without a taste of Cuban food. The cuisine is heavy and meat-centric and includes dishes like lechon asado (roasted pork) that are served in garlic-based sauces. The two most typical dishes are arroz con frijoles (the staple side dish of rice and black beans) and arroz con pollo (chicken in sticky yellow rice).

      Key West is famous for its key lime pie (also served elsewhere throughout the state) and conch fritters. Stone crab claws, a South Florida delicacy, can be savored during the official season from October 15 through May 15.

      MEALS AND MEALTIMES

      Unless otherwise noted, you can assume that the restaurants we recommend are open daily for lunch and dinner.

      RESERVATIONS AND DRESS

      We discuss reservations only when they’re essential (there’s no other way you’ll ever get a table) or when they’re not accepted. It’s always

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